View allAll Photos Tagged manual_focus
Manual Focus Samyang 85 f1.4
Single lencarta smartflash through softbox camera high right. Yongnuo YN622 trigger
So something very new for me!
Natural light, Samyang 85 f1.4 manual focus
Brenizer method 20 images (would have been more but daughter was only interested for a few seconds!!)
Left to right:
Nikkor 400mm f/5.6 K factory ai'd ED non-IF; Nikkor 600mm f/5.6 AI-S IF-ED; Nikkor 800mm f/5.6 AI-S IF-ED.
Taken with D600 + Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 AI-S hand held, ISO 500, f/2 at 1/60s, flash + diffuser.
Wind Ensemble Christmas performance.
First test of the Fujifilm XT-1. Shot with the Nikon Nikkor 135mm f2.8 AiS (manual focus).
I know soooo many bees - so little time! But I am working on getting good shots of fast objects and bees seemed to be the obvious choice
best viewed original sized.
this lens captures an amazing level of detail and it's the kit lens for the E-PL2
French air force, Airbus A330 MRTT.
Bastille day airshow 2018.
Nikon D300 with Nikkor 400mm f/5.6 ED Ais without tripod.
Manual Focus Canon FDn 28mm 2.0
my favorite semi wide lens, it gives gorgeous colors, great sharpness and has f.2.0 which is rare for 28mm of that time. Very versatile lens.
The Canon EF-M was a manual-focus 35mm film, SLR camera which used the Canon EF lens mount. It was introduced in 1991 for export to the non-Japanese market, and was the only manual focus camera in the EF line. It was not sold as part of the EOS range; the camera's official name was Canon EF-M rather than Canon EOS EF-M.
The EF-M was in essence a Canon EOS 1000 without an autofocus system, a built-in flash, or a top-deck LCD. It was priced slightly cheaper than the EOS 1000, and relatively few copies were sold. It was not directly available in Japan, though some were re-imported.
Uniquely amongst Canon EOS bodies it had an optical manual focus aid, a split-image focusing screen as well as a ring of microprisms. This system was common with manual focus SLRs but had since fallen out of use in the autofocus era. The screen can be installed with a certain amount of work in several autofocus EOS cameras, and can only be obtained by purchasing a used EF-M.
from "Wikipedia"
K10D with battery grip, Rikenon XR 28mm f2.8 (mounted), Pentax SMC-M 50mm f1.7, 100mm f4 macro, 200mm f4. Lowepro Orion Trekker II.
This truly is a "hobby" kit. A seriously spec-ed camera with high quality lenses but at a very bargain basement price. If I am shooting pictures for "serious" reasons, such as the wedding we just shot, I use the AF lenses for their speed and accuracy. Also these lenses are so old they do not allow auto exposure either, they must be metered manually (shades of the K1000).
Matt now has the K10D with the 28 and 50 shown here as well as a Rikenon 135mm f2.8. He used it alot until the iPhone came along.
4/15/16 2:25 PM
This is neat stuff if you are beyond auto mode in photography. To be ready for tomorrow I always check my memory cards and have spent a day or two charging batteries. Rather than random shooting tomorrow I need to get at least 6 good shots. Now you might think that is easy but a great photographer can take 2,000 and get one good shot. Old school photographers are used to paying a minimum of 2 bucks a piece if they developed their own film. That was with bulk loaders etc. So you would go to an event like East Bend with maybe three rolls of high speed film usually that was 108 shots unless you were backed by a newspaper and had a bulk roll and motor drive. You have spent 200 bucks if you sent them off or one long night in the dark room if you wanted your shots in the morning paper. Some of us in the group are learning photography as well as interested in Motocross. So there are sure shots and then creative shots. Photographers shooting racing can’t resist creative shots. So just within ten minutes I shot a quick example of creative vs standard. I only gave myself a quick shot. Not one where I could follow you across the track. Like I had a piece of jump I covered and couldn’t watch for a distance. I pick a focus point and hold the lock focus button even if I am on manual because Auto Focus is too slow for you guys. Shots can be called pan shots where the shutter speed is slow. The object is followed and it blurs the background. I nailed the plate on the car in a pan and blurred the woods. That car was doing 60 easy. The guys in the truck were shot with a higher shutter speed. The woods aren’t blurred as much. It was a pan shot. A photographer would say it was a hand held pan. Using a Tripod would be better but with a long lens it takes practice to do it hand held. The best can do a thing called zoom pan. It blurs the background and kind of sucks you into the photo. So I’ll mix things up a lot. I do know though that I am intentionally shooting with a higher depth of field because in a cropped shot if you are in the way background you might still want that shot even if you are a bit out of focus. You will learn to spot these things after awhile. There may be a test! And tomorrow when you are racing concentrate on the race and not hot dogging for the camera. After my initial experiment I will try to include as many as I can.