View allAll Photos Tagged lightbox
Lightbox tests with some jewelry. Sony α200 with 18-70 kit lens. PP in Photoshop. This piece is by my wife.
decided to make a lightbox from a design i found here on flickr. very simple and easy.
original idea from scott patterson
check it out here
A view inside a lightbox as part of the design sequence. The plastic 'hairs' only occur on the top half of the photo. The others are reflections in the panel of glass which is horizontal. This glass pulls light along its surface by cutting through the edges of the box.
The hairs extend out through the top, becoming like fiber optic cables.
playing around with a lightbox the other day. Just a piece of perspex over the top of a camping fluro light in an old drawer...
I would be interested to hear what you think of this pic.
I also played around with which way I should have this image - this way up, upside down, sideways.....what do you think? I have rotated and flipped in the next image. Which do you prefer? I look forward to hearing your comments. thanks!
Looking out to Brand Blvd., this is some of the architectural detail in the open entryway.
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Please!! NO Awards or Large Graphics...Group Buddy Icons are OK. Thank You!
© CPMcGann. All rights reserved. If you are interested in using my images, please contact me first.
The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame at Downtown Cleveland. For this one, I used my ND110 filter to get a relatively long exposure to "soften" the clouds.
Please view in LARGE
Press "L" to view in Lightbox.
The Gudong (故宫), or the Imperial Palace, better known by its unofficial title the 'Forbbiden City', was the home to 24 Emperors of China, during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and from where the Emperors issued their commands, with absolute authority, over their millions of subjects. During these reigns the palace was closed off to the outside world, with regular Chinese not even allowed to approach the walls. The Palace is a venerable maze of over 800 buildings containing supposedly over 9000 chambers.
Although the commencement building of the palace was issued by Kublai Khan, the palace was really built by the Ming Emperor Yongle when he switched the Imperial capital to Beijing in 1403, and construction lasted from 1406-1420, and the majority of buildings are in Ming style. The buildings are laid out in accordance with geomantic theories; the balance of yin and yang, negative and positive. As such the palace stood at the centre of Beijing, which was also considered the centre of the universe, and as such was the essence of supreme harmony.
After being the home of 24 emperors the Forbidden City ceased being the political centre of China in 1912 with the abdication of Puyi, the last Emperor of China. Under an agreement with the new Republic of China government, Puyi remained in the Inner Court, while the Outer Court was given over to public use,until he was evicted after a coup in 1924.The Palace Museum was then established in the Forbidden City in 1925.In 1933, the Japanese invasion of China forced the evacuation of the national treasures in the Forbidden City. Part of the collection was returned at the end of World War II, but the other part was evacuated to Taiwan in 1948 under orders by Chiang Kai-shek, whose Kuomintang was losing the Chinese Civil War.
After the establishment of the People's Republic of China in 1949, some damage was done to the Forbidden City as the country was swept up in revolutionary zeal. During the Cultural Revolution, however, further destruction was prevented when Premier Zhou Enlai sent an army battalion to guard the city.
The Forbidden City was declared a World Heritage Site in 1987 by UNESCO as the "Imperial Palace of the Ming and Qing Dynasties", due to its significant place in the development of Chinese architecture and culture. It is currently administered by the Palace Museum, which is carrying out a sixteen-year restoration project to repair and restore all buildings in the Forbidden City to their pre-1912 state
So this is a picture of my setup for my lightbox which i took some of my recent flower pictures in.
Basically it cost very little to make which is even more attractive to me.
First there are four walls to this box. There is a full sized foam board as the back which is vertical. Then the base is another piece of foam posterboard although you dont see it in this photo as it is covered with cloth. The base has been cut so that its length is the same as the width of the two side walls. The walls can really be any height but i made them a little shorter than the back so i can put more lamps from the top shooting downwards. Also in each side is a 12 x 12 inch square which i taped a piece of tissue paper across to help defuse the light.
I then for this set up have a piece of black matte fabric i got on sale which is what gives me my cornerless back ground. If i were to take this off i have a piece of white poster board that has a slight curve as it goes from vertical to horizontal to get rid of the back corner.
Lastly as can be seen here i have an extra piece of foam board going over the top. I had that there so that i could bounce the flash onto the photo.
As you can see i can light from the sides or from the top down. This was as i was finishing so the lamps are a little askew so that they could be seen easier.
I believe this whole project cost under 30 dollars including the cloth. This makes a nice stable area for me to take pictures of different objects.
Also usually i would keep some sort of diffuser infront of each one or be bouncing it off one of the walls of the box.
If you have any suggestions of comments please share.
So here's the finished rig. As is evident from the shot it's somewhat large and bit of a squeeze in a tiny apartment like ours, but I like the fact that I can fit something as large as a computer or even my daughter inside to be photographed.
This setup will need more light than a small one as the light fall-off in a larger rig is greater. I'm using my 1,000 watt Redhead video lights for illumination. Workshop Halogen lights from a hardware store should work well too. (Caution: keep hot lights at a reasonable distance from the cloth and other materials as they can catch fire). Also, try using a flash bounced off the inside roof of the rig as it scatters nicely off the walls and back to give a nice even light. The obective is to fill the box with as much (scattered) light as possible to minimize shadows and create even illumination - depending on the effect you want of course. Experimentation is key in a project like this.
I bought about 4 meters of white polyester from our local fabric supply store (Fabricland - $4.99/m) but other white materials will work too - just hold it up to the light and see how much light makes it through before choosing a material. Keep in mind if it's too sheer light won't scatter as much and you'll wind up with less even lighting and hotspots on your subject. If you can see and recognize objects on the other side of the fabric, it's too thin or coarse weave.
In the shot I have an Ikea coffee table inside to raise my subject off the floor. The black PVC pipes should probably be painted white to minimize them showing up in reflections - or the cloth could be sewn together to form a fabric cube and suspended inside the frame (if you know someone very good at sewing).
I used a couple of Manfrotto universal clamps attached to the pipes inside to hang a roll of backdrop paper from. But you can just as easily cut a sheet of the right length you need and tape it to the horizontal top pipe in the back and drape it forwards.
Note: after some experimenting, I added a piece of material to cover the opening part as well to reflect frontal light onto the items being shot inside (flap missing in this photo). You can either cut an opening for your camera in the flap or if the box is big enough as mine, you can sit right inside with your camera and shoot freehand.
I've had this lightbox for almost a year now and still haven't used it live. Its time will come soon...very soon.
The Nikkor 50mm f1.4 is my favourite portrait lens and i never leave home without it, EVER. Lightweight, inconspicuous, its all i ever need.
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fooling around with my new lightbox, and i realised that lights i bought were incandescent instead of white light.
-fumes-
here's a sample. error on the lighting, causing yellow tinge to lens cap and focussing ring.
not to worry, charging back to the shop tmr!
Part of a collection I'm doing about trash, rubbish, filth and the impact of humans on the world.
Mamiya RZ67 Pro II
110mm F2.8
Ilford HP5+ @ 800
Developed in Adonal. 1:50 for 16 minutes with regular agitation.
DSLR scanned using a home made lightbox and a Canon 7D.
Copyright Andrew Ford 2016
The fifth photo is one based on the use of soft boxes\light boxes and scrims. It is a pretty standard product shot and for the most part features what can be done with a good light box and an “infinity” background and controlled, diffused lighting from strobes. I learned that scrims, soft boxes, and light boxes are all about diffusing the light to such a point that the shadows are very soft if almost non-existent. This has a great deal of control on subject spectral highlights and reflections. This was setup
in DIY Lightbox with SB at subject left thru box set to 1/16, 24mm set to 12" away. SB at subject right thru box set to 1/8 about 18" away and set to 24mm. I think of this one, as one of my better product shots and included it in my portfolio for that reason.
Canon 60mm @ 1/100 sec at f14, ISO 100