View allAll Photos Tagged intervalometer
This was only a 30 minute exposure. I've been trying to get used to Nikon after only using Canon. Unlike Canon where BULB will keep the shutter open for as long as you want or until the battery dies, it's not the same with Nikon. You have to turn the timed setting on ( the two-dash setting) which will only keep the shutter open for 30 minutes at a time. The next night, I used the intervalometer to shoot 20 second exposures for 3 hours but it was just cloudy enough to make most of the images unusable in the star stacker program I downloaded.
Here is my first time-lapse that I shot in RAW on my iPhone 6s (well, first one worth posting). I set up my iPhone on a tripod and used the app ProCam4, which shoots in raw and has an intervalometer option, to capture the frames. Then I imported all the frames into Lightroom on my desktop, and did some batch processing there. Then, I exported the frames and used the free application Zeitraffer to stitch them together into a video - and here it is!
Why do this on an iPhone instead of another camera? Well, I actually also set up a time-lapse using my Sony camera right next to this one, and as far as video quality the results look good (just about the same as the iPhone, in this good lighting and once they’re both compressed to 1080p). The problem is that the Sony Playmemories Mobile Time-lapse App is limited to 999 frames! Even if you still have memory card space and battery life, it stops after 999 frames, which is very limiting for timelapses. I have sent Sony some feedback emails about this and they never responded - anyone know a better way to contact them? One tiny change would make their cameras amazing for timelapses. Oh wait, there’s one more change they should make - I can’t seem to run my Sony while its plugged into the wall or an external charger; it tries to go into data transfer mode. So, they are limited by battery life as well. With an iPhone, I can easily plug it into an external battery or into an extension cord to the wall, and then battery life is no longer a limiting factor.
Now my only problem is that I need my iPhone for other stuff, like, you know, as a phone. I did some googling to see if I could find a dedicated (ideally weather-proof) time-lapse camera that would shoot raw frames similar to the iPhone, but I didn’t find anything. Maybe soon it’ll be time to upgrade to a new iPhone and keep this one for timelapses… (I previously did that with my iPhone 5s, but it doesn’t shoot raw and now that I know how to process raw frames that’s a very frustrating limitation.)
I've recently downloaded starstax, and decided that the stars were clear enough the other night to give it a try. Some improvements I have noted for future attempts: delete frames with plane lights (as seen in the bottom left corner), batch edit the dark frames WITH the star photos (starstax wouldn't use the dark frames straight from the camera without having them the same dimension as the photos- which I cropped slightly), and point the camera in a more interesting direction (this is cool, but it isn't breathtakingly cool).
Time Lapse Test, X-T1, 15 frames per second playback. Composed of 240 single-frame shots, shot at 4-second interval via an in-camera intervalometer, processed and combined thru Lightroom 5.
Image created from multiple exposures blended together in Photoshop using a single Einstein strobe with a 22" beauty dish.
Please have a look at my automotive photography album: www.flickr.com/photos/kenlane/albums/72157634353498642
A great location to catch the “SuperTide” on 12th March 2020.
After watching a beautiful sunrise at Watchet we drove to a residential area near the sand dunes at Burnham-on-Sea. Google Maps showed the navigational beacon quite close to where we parked but the tide was so high it had washed the dunes away making it difficult to get near. After several attempts weaving away through the gorse we decided to slide vertically 3 metres down onto wet sandy beach with the choppy waves blowing in. A hasty wellie trek to this viewpoint was required hugging the vertical corroded sand dunes avoiding the waves as the humongous tide was dropping. Although it was quite blowy the camera on the tripod stayed still for 30 seconds. The sea was a muddy brown so I preferred to desaturate it in photoshop just leaving the blue sky. I thought a square crop and selective vignetting made a more minimalistic stylish image.
Karang beach, Sanur, Bali - Indonesia.
-
Nikon D7100
Tokina 11-16mm
Lee 0.9 hard graduated filter
B+W ND110
Image Averaging
Clear skies forecast, new moon & half term holiday for Keiran equalled me booking a last minute Friday off from work so we could go out & shoot some night skies for the first time in absolutely ages!!
This was the spot we shot our very first Milky Way images. This one is much better than those. The plan was to concentrate more on the foreground images which didn't work out great as I forgot my intervalometer remote so I was stuck at 30 seconds maximum!
A7 - SY24/1.4
I was forced to exposure for only 30 seconds because I left my intervalometer home. This 126x30s processed image (Pixinsight and PS CS 6.0) @ iso 1600, Nikkor 180mm ED f/2.8 @ f/2.8, Nikon d7100 was taken on the morning of 9 Oct 18 from Vail, Arizona. Moonless clear skies with excellent transparency resulted in a sharp crisp image. Using AstroTrac x320 unguided mount.
Compare to earlier work:
www.flickr.com/photos/79387036@N07/23630888071/in/album-7...
www.flickr.com/photos/79387036@N07/26461040123/in/album-7...
www.flickr.com/photos/79387036@N07/25891495460/in/album-7...
A timelapse of the sunset on Christmas Day, looking up the coast from Point Dume in Malibu. Shot with iPhone 6s using Procam’s raw intervalometer mode, then processed the raw files in LR and made into a video using the app Zeitraffer on my Mac. Shot at 1frame every second and played back at 30fps. It came out surprisingly jerky (I hadn’t thought there was much wind but I guess there was), so I stabilized the video on my iPad using the app Deshake, which worked great.
This timelapse is also largely thanks to my parents, who not only drove me to Point Dume for sunset on Christmas Day but also offered to guard my iPhone on its tripod at this angle while I went to shoot further out on the point (another timelapse is coming later of the view from the end of the point out over the ocean, and of course I was also shooting stills).
A chocolate box image from Cumbria.
Autumn colours looking amazing at this tradition 18th century stone-built Packhorse bridge with a picturesque lake and mountain backdrop. The little bridge has been strengthened and widened 100 years after it was built.
It’s overlooking Derwentwater in the North lakes and can be found on a single road (B5288) from Borrowdale to Watendlath. This popular stunning location can get busy!
After taking a few photographs upstream in our wellies we took a break in a National Trust hut with a log fire. The free hot mug of tea was very welcome not forgetting to make a small donation on the way out.
Image created from multiple exposures blended together in Photoshop using a single Einstein strobe with a 22" beauty dish.
Please have a look at my automotive photography album: www.flickr.com/photos/kenlane/albums/72157634353498642
This was from 30-09-19 just forgot to post at the time . Super high tide and reflections of the old 1863 Crane at Cotehele Quay, which is usually on land. good job we had wellies that morning. A little mist floating around too! Great place to pay a visit too if your in the area and lots to see including the Shamrock which is the only fully-restored ketch-rigged Tamar sailing barge in the world. A little Cafe also for a cream tea and Gardens and woodland to see too.
Aurora
Shot from the Garden Peninsula MI.
The camera was in intervalometer mode shooting all night and produced a series of images, purple ,red and green.
Lens was a Samyang f2.8/12mm 180° diagonal lens, at F/2.8
090322am
DSC02417Green
Captured 26/01/2023 just before 3am
The bright red star to the far right is RR Ursae Minoris a 4.7 magnitude binary.
-Magnitude is used to measure the brightness of stellar objects, the higher the number, the fainter the object.
-A binary star belongs to a system of two stars that are gravitationally bound together and locked in orbit around each other.
Boring techie bit,
Skywatcher quattro 8" S & f4 aplanatic coma corrector
EQ6 R pro mount guided with an Altair 50mm & Altair GPcam
Canon 450D astro modded with Astronomik CLS CCD EOS APS-C clip filter. Neewer Intervalometer used to control the exposures.
104 exposures of 120 seconds each with the best 50% stacked together with calibration frames. 2 images were produced from the data. One stacking on the comet, one stacking on the stars. Separately processed then combined together.
Software used, PHd2, DeepSkyStacker, StarTools, Affinity Photo.
The Lightning Storm - This is a combination of three lightning photos with the exact same settings: f/3.5, 25 seconds, and ISO 200. I set the camera on intervalometer mode and let it take photos for around 5 minutes. Out of the frames taken, three of them had lightning strikes captured. I then combined those three images and their respective lightning strikes and this is the resulting photo.
Images taken during the spectacular storm of the 18th July 2014 - even caught an early Perseid :)
I set my camera up using an intervalometer and took images every few minutes hoping to catch a bolt of lightning and fortunately I was lucky :) I then took the images and stacked them (similar to processing fireworks) and used the Lighten blend mode with a mask on each layer to highlight the streak of lightning.
I hope you like it :D
Timelapse movie of the big Xujiahui intersection.
Taken from the grand staircase of the Grand Gateway mall.
I recommend to view it large.
Nikon Df, AF-D Nikkor 28/2.8.
17:05 to 18:05, 1 hour, afternoon into the night, at 24fps compressed to about 10 seconds. 1 photo every 15 seconds using the built-in intervalometer of the Df.
Compiled with "VirtualDub" as .avi - and actually I'm not quite happy with the crappy .mp4 rendering done by flickr.
© All Rights Reserved - you may not use this video in any form without my prior permission.
After several abortive and unsuccessful attempts at trying to capture Sirius, the brightest star in the sky, which twinkles many colours, I tried something else.
I put the Intervalometer on to take an image every second, so as to capture it moving across the frame. This sort of worked but the lines of images looked really boring, so I repeated the process, but this time jumped up and down on the deck to cause camera shake. This resulted in loads of just blurry and unusable shots, but also many usable ones, and it did make the star jump around the frame. Bolted together several passes of the star, eliminated the blurred camera shake shots and this is the result.
To me, the resultant image looks quite organic, like a molecule or DNA, or maybe I have been hitting the lockdown wine bottle a little too heavily.
I'm new to this type of photography, so go easy on me. I'm learning new things along the way. I'm finding that this is quite fun to do and can give amazing results when done right. I'm using an Einstein 640 strobe with a 22" beauty dish & diffusion sock mounted on an Elinchrom Handheld Boom Arm. I typically fire my camera off with a wireless trigger, and that in turn fires my CyberSync™ Trigger Transmitter on my Nikon D800 to fire off my strobe via a CyberSync™ Transceiver. I end up taking several exposures, both high and low, while walking around the vehicle. I'll layer the images in Photoshop and switch each layer to the 'lighten' blend mode. I have been using layer masks to remove some highlight details from the strobe reflection, but I don't always find it works all the time. This hot rod was taken at the 2016 Mountain Thunder Car Show in Old Fort, North Carolina. I forgot how many exposures I ended up using, but i shot the car in full daylight with about 5 stops of ND filtration and had the flash power at maximum.
Sidande LCD Wireless Time Lapse Intervalometer Remote Control Timer Shutter Release RST-7204
www.amazon.com/Sidande-Wireless-Intervalometer-D1series-D...
Elinchrom EL Handheld Boom Arm:
Please have a look at my automotive photography album: www.flickr.com/photos/kenlane/albums/72157634353498642
Check out these videos to help explain the method:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeRDHzVLulY
www.youtube.com/watch?v=8X5TJeABmtk
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xe70LxtCrkc
www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF9GRhxWbLU
Milky Way stars over Grand Tetons from the Cascade Canyon Overlook in Grand Teton National Park. The foreground was light-painted with 2-million candlepower spotlight from camera right. Using an intervalometer, I was able to walk about 800 feet to the right (about 300 feet past the view of the camera), and have the camera remotely open the shutter, while I paint the scene during the 30 second exposure. This view is looking southeast, and was taken about three hours after sunset. The orange glow to the left of the Milky Way is light pollution from the town of Jackson, WY, about 20 miles away. The orange glow in the notch of the Teton Range is from the Idaho Falls metro area, about 75 miles away.
My new ebook, Milky Way NightScapes, gives extensive details on how to enhance the landscape foreground. Three other chapters cover planning, scouting, forecasting star/landscape alignment, shooting and post processing.
Canon EOS 5D Mark II • EF 15mm F/2.8 Fisheye • F2.8 - 30 sec. - ISO 6400
Visit my Into The Night Photography blog
...with how-to tutorials from the world's top night photographers
Night Photo Blog | Facebook | 500px | Google+ | Workshops : 2014 Schedule
See the awe-inspiring NightScape VIDEO – with one Milky Way after another!
2012/05/04 568v 75c 104f 1g
Strung together a bunch of pics I snapped of an Aurora from work last year. Didn't have an intervalometer so just manually snapped for the 30 minutes or so that it was visible.
The Ford Mustang Mach 1 is a performance-oriented option package of the Ford Mustang, originally introduced by Ford in August 1968 as a package for the 1969 model year. The Mach 1 title adorned performance oriented Mustang offerings until the original retirement of the moniker in 1978. As part of a Ford heritage program, the Mach 1 package returned in 2003 as a high performance version of the SN95 platform. Visual connections to the 1969 model were integrated into the design to pay homage to the original. This generation of the Mach 1 was discontinued after the 2004 model year, with the introduction of the fifth-generation Mustang. Ford first used the name "Mach 1" in its 1959 display of a concept called the "Levacar MACH-1" at the Ford Rotunda. This concept vehicle used a cushion of air as propulsion on a circular dais.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Mustang_Mach_1
Taken at the 2016 Spring Fling Car Show at the Asheville Outlets. Image created from multiple exposures blended together in Photoshop using a single Einstein strobe with a 22" beauty dish.
It's difficult to face something larger than yourself. Hate, fear and worry serve no purpose. They are hard to let go of but must be put aside.
"...My children, the Father comes to be known through the cross. Therefore, do not reject the cross. Strive to comprehend and accept it with my help... " - Our Lady of Medjugorje
Strobist: Einstein in giant softbox camera left. 60" softlighter behind camera for fill. Triggered with Cyber Commander. Shot with EM5 and Olympuys 75 F1.8 @ F1.8 using an intervalometer for multiple shots and eye-focus for focusing.
For a higher resolution & COMPLETE video, check out this video on my YouTube page: www.youtube.com/watch?v=mF48dzBro7I
Equipment: DSLR, tripod, strobe, battery pack for strobe, strobe trigger, light modifier, boom arm, wireless camera trigger. Setup: I put my camera on a tripod. My camera has a strobe trigger in the hot shoe and a wireless camera receiver/trigger on the side of the camera. I'm using a single Einstein 640WS strobe which is attached to the end of my boom arm, this helps me to position the light over the vehicle and gives me the ability to stand away from the car as far as possible. I have a wireless camera trigger in my hand and away I shoot.
So most car shows that I have been to are during the worst part of the day...NOON, bright sunlight and usually no cloud coverage. But no problem ! I find a vehicle I really like, setup the tripod, secure my DLSR on the tripod and frame up my shot. I focus on something near the front of the vehicle, or close to the camera, when I nail the focus, then I switch autofocus to manual. The camera doesn't need to re-focus for every shot, it's already set one time. Camera settings are usually shutter ~1/250 sec (max flash sync speed, although I have gotten away with 1/320 without the shutter lag/black stripe in my image) the faster the shutter speed, the darker the ambient lighting, right ? So the background darkness is your preference. Aperture setting has to be quite lower then I want, and I set it at f/4 minimum. I haven't tried f/8 or higher yet, so I'll probably try some new things this weekend, i got a couple of car shows I'm going to here locally. It's all about trying new things and learning what works and what doesn't. Getting back to the shutter speed, we both know that 1/250 sec will not get the ambient dark enough (maybe that works for you ?), but to make things even darker I typically use a 3-stop ND filter to block even more light (I guess this give the appearance of shooting at night, things get really dark). You can screw in your 3-stop ND filter and still use auto focus on bright sunny days. I have even filter stacked a 2-stop ND filter on top of my 3-stop ND filter, but lately I just stick to the 3-stop since it gives me favorable results, but you can try it out on your own and see if it's something you like. Your couple of shots will be "test shots" and you'll have to adjust flash power your your aperture from blowing the highlights out. You are going to take quite a few shots of the car, because your light modifier will not cover large areas, I usually have the strobe anywhere from 4 to 6 feet away on average, but I'm still new at this and getting a better "feel" of where things need to be in my setup/process. The more images you take, then the better your post-processing will be as you will have more choices in lighting to blend. It's funny, my car strobing started with strobing flowers and statues, but I was curious one day about strobing a car and how it would turn out, unfortunately I used my off camera flash and softbox and found out that it was not enough flash power and that the softbox diffuser had actually reduce my light power by 1-stop. It's all trial and error. Practice, practice, practice ! Learn and try new things.
Other thoughts and additional remarks (things I'm learning along the way):
My first few shots are actually without the flash on. I shoot 2 frames at 1/250s & 1/320s. One of these frames will serve as the "base image" or bottom layer in Photoshop. Just make sure that no person is standing in the background, if you can help it. It should be a clean shot with nothing moving in the background, but sometimes you can't help it. This image will help set the tone for the ambient lighting level.
It's sometimes OK if people are walking around the car, just as long as they don't get between the camera and the area of the car you're lighting. I always expect people and have had people walk right in front of my camera as I'm shooting. They have no idea what I'm doing and if there's no one behind the camera, then they think you're not taking pictures. Just expect that to happen, after all, it's a car show with lots of people.
In addition to lighting the car, I find it adds more appeal to the image if you light up the asphalt or grass around the car and especially at the corners of the vehicle. I'm finding out that you can have a better image where the car naturally blends into the ground surface, otherwise you'll end up with an image that looks badly vignetted.
You have to light up the interior of the vehicle, this really makes the image pop ! Just place your light right up to the window and fire away, and take several shots at different angles into the car. Shoot the interior of the car from both sides of the vehicle. It's OK if you're standing right at the window, just make sure your body doesn't get between the camera and the interior.
It really helps to have an assistant help you out. By them standing at the tripod/camera, then most people will avoid walking into your shots, and they always have questions as to what I'm doing. Your assistant can show your portfolio to them to see the final images you're trying to create. It absolutely baffles non-photographers of what images you can create it bright sunlight and using a strobe. Plus your assistant can help you carry equipment to the next car.
I found out that using the diffusion sock over my beauty dish was reducing my flash output, so I don't use it.
Shoot the same spot of the vehicle but from different angles. This is because sometime you'll find out that the light source shows up as a bright reflection of the surface of the car. You can use Photoshop "magic" to sometimes "erase" these unwanted reflections, but I'm still learning about how to eliminate or reduce this in the field.
The color of the car makes a big difference to flash output ! White cars tend to blow out easier, so lower the flash output. Black is impossible to show up at all, so I usually will think about doing a B&W image of it, especially if it has alot of chrome, Shows up good as a B&W image. You will find this out on your own.
Going back to the people and objects moving in the background...I found out recently with an image where there were people sitting behind the car and when I tried to bring in the lighted portion that I had ghosting come through, but I could fix it by making my brush size smaller with a higher hardness on the brush. Avoiding this situation all together is your call. I'm sure you'll run into this problem at some point.
From Lightroom you'll bring in all the images you want to stack in Photoshop by using the "edit in...edit images as layers in photoshop" selection. Once in Photoshop, all your images should be in one file, and then you should align the images by using edit...auto-align images.
Be aware of the sun ducking in and out of the clouds if the situation arises. Your light levels obviously won't match from exposure to exposure. But I don't think it's a show stopper, you can adjust for that in post.
I haven't tried shooting with a polarizer, not sure what it will do, but will try to see if it has any effect. Maybe it could eliminate or reduce the light from reflecting off the surface of the car ?
Here's what I use:
1.) Nikon D800
2.) Nikkor 24-70 f/2.8 lens
2.) Really Right Stuff tripod
3.) Wireless camera trigger [www.amazon.com/Sidande-Wireless-Intervalometer-D1series-D...]
4.) 3-stop B&W ND filter [www.adorama.com/BW77ND8X.html]
5.) Elinchrom Boom Arm [www.adorama.com/EL31049.html]
6.) Einstein 640WS strobe
7.) CST-2 CyberSync Trigger
8.) Vagabond Mini Lithium battery pack (I actually have 4 of them now)
9.) 22" beauty dish (Paul C. Buff)
10.) Photoshop (any version)
Of course the real magic happens in Photoshop by bringing all the exposures together, but I'd have to show you or you might be able to check out some videos on YouTube on how to blend exposures together. I've posted some video links in my earlier images online.
Give it try and ask me anything along the way. I think it would be cool to help someone and actually see their automotive photography go to the "next level", for me photography is just a hobby so I don't mind passing along information, so I don't mind help a fellow photographer (and automotive photographer at that !) how I shoot and process my photos. It's all about learning.
These videos may help:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeRDHzVLulY
www.youtube.com/watch?v=8X5TJeABmtk
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xe70LxtCrkc
www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF9GRhxWbLU
The Ford Galaxie is a full-size car that was built in the United States by Ford for model years 1959 through 1974. The name was used for the top models in Ford's full-size range from 1958 until 1961, in a marketing attempt to appeal to the excitement surrounding the Space Race. For 1962, all full-size Fords wore the Galaxie badge, with "500" and "500/XL" denoting the higher series. The Galaxie 500/LTD was introduced for 1965 followed by the Galaxie 500 7-Litre for 1966. The Galaxie 500 part was dropped from the LTD in 1966, and from the XL in 1967; however the basic series structuring levels were maintained. The "regular" Galaxie 500 continued below the LTD as Ford's mid-level full-size model from 1965 until its demise at the end of the 1974 model year. The 1965 Galaxie was an all-new design, featuring vertically stacked dual headlights. The cars were taller and bulkier than the previous year's. The new top-of-the-line designation was the Galaxie 500 LTD. Engine choices were the same as 1964, except for an all-new 240 cu in (3.9 L) six-cylinder engine replacing the 1950s-era 223 "Mileage-Maker" six and the 352 was now equipped with dual exhausts and a four-barrel carburetor. Suspension on the 1965 models was redesigned. Replacing the former leaf-spring rear suspension was a new three-link system, with coil springs. Interiors featured a new instrument panel and two-way key system were introduced. The introduction of two keys was for valet parking, in that the rounded head key would only open the trunk or locked glove compartment, while the squared head key would unlock the doors and the ignition. A new model was introduced for 1966; the Galaxie 500 7 Litre, fitted with a new engine, the 345 hp 428 cu in (7.0 L) Thunderbird V8. This engine was also available on the Ford Thunderbird. The police versions received a 360 hp version of the 428 known as the 'Police Interceptor'. The 1966 body style was introduced in Brazil (Ford do Brasil) as a 1967 model; it had the same external dimensions throughout its lifetime until Brazilian production ended in 1983. Safety regulations for 1966 required seat belts front and rear on all new cars sold domestically. The Galaxie 500 would be the #3-selling convertible in the U.S. in 1966, with 27,454 sold; it was beaten by the Mustang (at 72,119, by more than 2:1) and by the Impala at 38,000. A parking brake light on the dashboard and an AM/FM radio was optional. [source: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Galaxie]
Image created from multiple exposures blended together in Photoshop layers using the "Lighten" blend mode. All exposures were taken with a single Einstein strobe with a 22" beauty dish attached to a boom arm. Send me a FlickrMail message, and I'll be more than happy to send you some information on mostly how I photograph this style and what equipment I use.
Please have a look at my automotive photography album: www.flickr.com/photos/kenlane/albums/72157634353498642
Photographed at Camping World facility near Hendersonville, North Carolina at the 2016 1st Annual Run To The Sun Cruise-In Benefit Car Show for Danny Hill.
Please have a look at my automotive photography album: www.flickr.com/photos/kenlane/albums/72157634353498642
Check out these videos to help explain the method:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeRDHzVLulY
www.youtube.com/watch?v=8X5TJeABmtk
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xe70LxtCrkc
www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF9GRhxWbLU
Summer is the thunderstorm season at Grand Canyon National Park. During my night at the North Rim, I witnessed the thunderclouds forming up over the South Rim, striking over the rim and eventually crossing over the canyon to the north.
I took 200+ pictures manually because there was not third party intervalometers available back then. And this might be the most satisfying one I've got.
Photographed at Camping World facility near Hendersonville, North Carolina at the 2016 1st Annual Run To The Sun Cruise-In Benefit Car Show for Danny Hill.
________________________________________
Check out these videos to help explain the method:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeRDHzVLulY
www.youtube.com/watch?v=8X5TJeABmtk
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xe70LxtCrkc
www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF9GRhxWbLU
Facebook Event Page: www.facebook.com/events/1548881032080578/
Schroader's Honda FB: www.facebook.com/Schroaders-Honda-164451103607798/
Schroader's Honda Webpage: schroaders.com/
Image created from multiple exposures blended together in Photoshop layers using the "Lighten" blend mode. All exposures were taken with a single Einstein strobe with a 22" beauty dish attached to a boom arm. Send me a FlickrMail message, and I'll be more than happy to send you some information on mostly how I photograph this style and what equipment I use.
Please have a look at my automotive photography album: www.flickr.com/photos/kenlane/albums/72157634353498642
Saturday morning 6/29/2019; my 4th location on this all nighter. This view is actually from what used to be the backyard; it may be a little hard to see, but there is the (somewhat collapsed) remains of a swing set right behind the house. I believe the small concrete building to the left may have been a storm shelter and the tank next to it was for fuel.
Shot with my Fuji X-T2 and Samyang 8mm f/2.8 fisheye; (5) 15 second shots + (2) dark frames @ f/2.8, ISO 6400, 3800K WB; a single LED panel was used for LLL.
Stacked in Sequator, fisheye correction with Imadio Fisheye Hemi and DxO Viewpoint, final edits in Adobe Photoshop using a few Topaz plugins.
Marion is a city in McDowell County, North Carolina, United States. It is the county seat of McDowell County. Founded in 1844, the city was named in honor of Brigadier General Francis Marion, the American Revolutionary War Hero whose talent in guerrilla warfare earned him the name “Swamp Fox”. Marion's Main Street Historic District is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The population was 7,838 at the 2010 Census. [source: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marion,_North_Carolina]
City of Marion NC website: www.marionnc.org
Marion Cruise In links:
Facebook: www.facebook.com/themarioncruisein
Website: www.marioncruisein.com/index.html
2016 Image Flyer: scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/12983248_78761507467...
This image was created from multiple exposures blended together in Photoshop CS6 layers using the "Lighten" blend mode. All exposures were taken with a single Paul C. Buff Einstein strobe with a 22" beauty dish attached to a Elinchrom boom arm. If you send me a FlickrMail message, I'll be more than happy to send you some information on mostly how I photograph this style and what equipment I use, along with some YouTube video links that help explain this process.
Please have a look at my automotive photography album: www.flickr.com/photos/kenlane/albums/72157634353498642
Image created from multiple exposures blended together in Photoshop using a single Einstein strobe with a 22" beauty dish.
Please have a look at my automotive photography album: www.flickr.com/photos/kenlane/albums/72157634353498642
In my previous image I spoke about the dreams of a landscape photographer 'if only.....'. Whilst we were planning the trip Jay and I were day dreaming of getting a clear sky above Lake Tekapo, no wind and a full moon to illuminate all the lupins in the foreground.
With the campervan we were able to chaise the weather that would be conducive to the location we were planning to shoot. We ended up making a last minute change to drive to Lake Tekapo with the prospect of getting clear skies and no wind.
Looking back on the trip this was one of my favourite moments. We ended up using the intervalometers on the cameras and set our exposures and then just sat back on some camp chairs with a few beers and processed our images from the day before. I can't think of a better night!!!
Best viewed large!!!
This is a planetary nebula around 2,600 light years away.
Planetary nebula is formed after a star very much like our own Sun burns through all it's fuel. The star swells up in size and then rapidly shrinks right down to become a white dwarf. As it shrinks, it's gaseous outer layers are left to just simply drift outwards continually expanding. This particular one is approximately 2 light years across.
It gets it's name the Owl Nebula from the two dark patches that kind of look like big beady eyes.
Boring techie bit.
Skywatcher quattro 8" S & f4 aplanatic coma corrector
EQ6 R pro mount guided with an Altair 50mm & Altair GPcam
Canon 450D astro modded with Astronomik CLS CCD EOS APS-C clip filter. Neewer Intervalometer used to control the exposures.
60 - 2 minute exposures with the best 70% stacked in DeepSkyStacker with calibration frames.
All other processing done with StarTools.
Image created from multiple exposures blended together in Photoshop layers using the "Lighten" blend mode. All exposures were taken with a single Einstein strobe with a 22" beauty dish attached to a boom arm.
Please have a look at my automotive photography album: www.flickr.com/photos/kenlane/albums/72157634353498642
Blue Ridge Community College (BRCC) is excited to announce the 12th Annual Benefit Car, Truck, Tractor and Trade Show set for Saturday, June 4, 2016, on the Henderson County Campus. This year’s show is hosted by SkillsUSA Students and Great Smokey Mountain Region of AACA and is featuring Corbitt Trucks and Tractors. The show is open to all modes of transportation, including 2-, 3-, 4- or 18-wheelers. The day will include door prizes and special awards that are chosen and presented by SkillsUSA Students. Automotive instructional labs will be open for tours. All proceeds from the car show will benefit automotive students in SkillsUSA competitions. (www.blueridge.edu/news/twelfth-annual-car-show-set-june-4)
Facebook Event Page: www.facebook.com/events/1548881032080578/
Schroader's Honda FB: www.facebook.com/Schroaders-Honda-164451103607798/
Schroader's Honda Webpage: schroaders.com/
Image created from multiple exposures blended together in Photoshop layers using the "Lighten" blend mode. All exposures were taken with a single Einstein strobe with a 22" beauty dish attached to a boom arm. Send me a FlickrMail message, and I'll be more than happy to send you some information on mostly how I photograph this style and what equipment I use.
Please have a look at my automotive photography album: www.flickr.com/photos/kenlane/albums/72157634353498642
Image created from multiple exposures blended together in Photoshop layers using the "Lighten" blend mode. All exposures were taken with a single Einstein strobe with a 22" beauty dish attached to a boom arm. Send me a FlickrMail message, and I can send you some information on how I have approached this shooting style.
Please have a look at my automotive photography album: www.flickr.com/photos/kenlane/albums/72157634353498642
Blue Ridge Community College (BRCC) is excited to announce the 12th Annual Benefit Car, Truck, Tractor and Trade Show set for Saturday, June 4, 2016, on the Henderson County Campus. This year’s show is hosted by SkillsUSA Students and Great Smokey Mountain Region of AACA and is featuring Corbitt Trucks and Tractors. The show is open to all modes of transportation, including 2-, 3-, 4- or 18-wheelers. The day will include door prizes and special awards that are chosen and presented by SkillsUSA Students. Automotive instructional labs will be open for tours. All proceeds from the car show will benefit automotive students in SkillsUSA competitions. (www.blueridge.edu/news/twelfth-annual-car-show-set-june-4)
This is a 16-minute exposure of stars over Half Dome using four 4-minute shots! It was FREEZING!! And my intervalometer was malfunctioning so I couldn'tjust set it it and forget it--had to stand with it and trigger it. I haven't done star trails in a while-I forgot how fun they are! Enjoy!!
A view from the other side of the lake of a remote boathouse surrounded by ‘Autumness’. There was a slight breeze that afternoon causing a ripple on the water. Unfortunately the sun went down over the mountains within a minute of arrival so only managed one shot. It simply didn’t look the same without the light so walked back to the car thinking I missed the light and never had time to revisit it that week. I’m happy I did catch the light with my first shot though.
Photographed at Camping World facility near Hendersonville, North Carolina at the 2016 1st Annual Run To The Sun Cruise-In Benefit Car Show for Danny Hill.
________________________________________
Check out these videos to help explain the method:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeRDHzVLulY
www.youtube.com/watch?v=8X5TJeABmtk
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xe70LxtCrkc
www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF9GRhxWbLU
Photographed at Camping World facility near Hendersonville, North Carolina at the 2016 1st Annual Run To The Sun Cruise-In Benefit Car Show for Danny Hill.
________________________________________
08-023 2008 Auti-Mo – 145” EFI – 250 Tire
12 Month/6,000 mile Factory Warranty
Call for Price
Location: Extreme Motorcycles- NC
(704) 637-1680 - dirk@extrememotorcycles.com
________________________________________
Please have a look at my automotive photography album: www.flickr.com/photos/kenlane/albums/72157634353498642
________________________________________
Check out these videos to help explain the method:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeRDHzVLulY
www.youtube.com/watch?v=8X5TJeABmtk
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xe70LxtCrkc
www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF9GRhxWbLU
Aurora
Shot from the Garden Peninsula MI.
The camera was in intervalometer mode shooting all night and produced a series of images, purple ,red and green.
Lens was a Samyang f2.8/12mm 180° diagonal lens, at F/2.8
090322am
DSC01342
I use an Einstein 640 strobe with a 22" beauty dish & diffusion sock mounted on an Elinchrom Handheld Boom Arm. I typically fire my camera off with a wireless trigger, and that in turn fires my CyberSync™ Trigger Transmitter on my Nikon D800 to fire off my strobe via a CyberSync™ Transceiver. I end up taking several exposures, both high and low, while walking around the vehicle. I'll layer the images in Photoshop and switch each layer to the 'lighten' blend mode. I have been using layer masks to remove some highlight details from the strobe reflection, but I don't always find it works all the time. 1970 Plymouth Duster, 2016 Mountain Thunder Car Show in Old Fort, North Carolina. I shot the car in full daylight with about 5 stops of ND filtration and had the flash power at maximum.
Sidande LCD Wireless Time Lapse Intervalometer Remote Control Timer Shutter Release RST-7204
www.amazon.com/Sidande-Wireless-Intervalometer-D1series-D...
Elinchrom EL Handheld Boom Arm:
Check out these videos to help explain the method:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeRDHzVLulY
www.youtube.com/watch?v=8X5TJeABmtk
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xe70LxtCrkc
www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF9GRhxWbLU
Photographed at Camping World facility near Hendersonville, North Carolina at the 2016 1st Annual Run To The Sun Cruise-In Benefit Car Show for Danny Hill.
________________________________________
Check out these videos to help explain the method I used to create this image:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeRDHzVLulY
www.youtube.com/watch?v=8X5TJeABmtk
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xe70LxtCrkc
www.youtube.com/watch?v=rF9GRhxWbLU
Taken at the 2016 Spring Fling Car Show at the Asheville Outlets.
Image created from multiple exposures blended together in Photoshop using a single Einstein strobe with a 22" beauty dish.
The Chevrolet Corvette (C2) (C2 for Second Generation), also known as the Corvette Sting Ray, is a sports car that was produced by Chevrolet for the 1963 to 1967 model years. For the 1966 Corvette, the big-block V-8 came in two forms: 390 bhp on 10.25:1 compression, and 425 bhp via 11:1 compression, larger intake valves, a bigger Holley four-barrel carburetor on an aluminum manifold, mechanical lifters, and four- instead of two-hole main bearing caps. Though it had no more horsepower than the previous high-compression 396, the 427 in³ (7 L), 430 hp (321 kW V8 packed a lot more torque - 460 pound/feet vs. 415. Of course, engine outputs were sometimes deliberately understated in the Sixties. Here, 420 and 450 bhp would be closer to the truth. Of course, all power ratings in the sixties were also done in SAE Gross Horsepower, which is measured based on an engine without accessories or air filter or restrictive stock exhaust manifold, invariably giving a significantly higher rating than the engine actually produces when installed in the automobile. SAE Net Horsepower is measured with all accessories, air filters and factory exhaust system in place; this is the standard that all US automobile engines have been rated at since 1972. With big-block V-8s being the order of the day, there was less demand for the 327, so small-block offerings were cut from five to two for 1966, and only the basic 300- and 350-bhp versions were retained. Both required premium fuel on compression ratios well over 10.0:1, and they didn't have the rocket-like thrust of the 427s, but their performance was impressive all the same. As before, both could be teamed with the Powerglide automatic, the standard three-speed manual, or either four-speed option. The 1966 model's frontal appearance was mildly altered with an eggcrate grille insert to replace the previous horizontal bars, and the coupe lost its roof-mounted extractor vents, which had proven inefficient. Corvettes also received an emblem in the corner of the hood for 1966. Head rests were a new option, one of the rarest options was the Red/Red Automatic option with power windows and air conditioning from factory which records show production numbered only 7 convertibles and 33 coupes. This relative lack of change reflected plans to bring out an all-new Corvette for 1967. It certainly did not reflect a fall-off in the car's popularity, however. In fact, 1966 would prove another record-busting year, with volume rising to 27,720 units, up some 4200 over 1965's sales.
source: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_Corvette_(C2)
Taken at the 2016 Spring Fling Car Show at the Asheville Outlets. Image created from multiple exposures blended together in Photoshop using a single Einstein strobe with a 22" beauty dish.