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Armstrong brand cork pipe insulation with a black bituminous outer layer shown inside a vertical utility shaft. The bitumen layer was tested as non-asbestos, but a black asbestos sealant compound was identified along the insulation's seams that connect the sections together.
A several-decades-old attic space lined with asbestos millboard panels throughout, each panel held in place by simple nails. Metal bands are used to secure panels at the ridge structural member. In this particular application the insulation boards also provide sound dampening qualities for active mechanical systems in the attic space.
Simple side-by-side comparison of two large steam pipe valves; one showing appearance with installed asbestos insulation and the other valve shown following abatement of the asbestos insulation materials.
Original asbestos insulation has been removed from these vintage steam pipes and valves, and the valves have been painted. Asbestos remains, but is concealed within the valves and flanges: gaskets and stem packing. Unfortunately, these types of asbestos materials often go unaccounted during asbestos inspections and surveys, but can still pose significant exposure risk to personnel that may eventually service the mechanical equipment.
When it is a fine sunny day outside, there is nothing like being inside stuffing insulation into walls.
The blue styrofoam was 13/16 " thick thus too tall to fit between my laminated ribs which were slightly less than 3/4" thick. I used my surface planer to knock down the thickness of the insulation so it stood slightly proud between the ribs. Though the foam seemed easy to plane, I'm not sure how well the planer blades tolerated the foam's components.
I used a table saw to cut the foam into 3 5/8' strips to fit between the ribs. I used spacers when installing the ribs thus my care was rewarded as the foam strips fit without having to fuss with their widths. Some excitement in cutting the foam when the just cut strip was very succeptable to kick back if not controlled properly. Though a feather weight foam strip being expelled from the table saw posed little danger, it instinctly scared the dickens out of me as I ducked for cover.
The foam dust apparently had a static charge on it as the stuff stuck to vertical sufaces. Yup, I wore a respirator but looked like I had a blue snow cone on top of my head.
Before installing the foam, I coated the foredeck interior surfaces with epoxy to provide some moisture protection to the 4mm bottom panels and laminated ribs. I installed the foam into the wet epoxy, put some boards down on the foam and provided weight via limestone blocks. The cured epoxy held the foam tightly, at least in the short term.
Using a long board with 40 grit paper I leveled the foam with the tops of the ribs. The foam gives one a useful perspective of rib height and I found one rib that was standing proud probably from a wood scrap under it when epoxied in place. Epoxy was applied to the underside of the 6mm top plywood panels for moisture protection and perhaps some adherence to the foam thus meeting a requirement of "sandwich" construction in that the core is attached to both skins. Since the foredeck has ribs running throughout it thus a torsion box, it is academic whether the core is firmly attached to the inner and outer skins but it is always fun to find something else to postulate over.
The second of the two 1" wide ribs at the mid length location of the foredeck was necessary to correct an error I made in locating a rib (in relationship to the rib for the butt joint) at the point that the foredeck rests on the mahogany beam. Before correcting this error, I couldn't space the 1" wide ribs consistently to provide the mounting points for the decorative maghogany strips that will be installed on the interior of the foredeck. When I butt up the 6mm top panels, I will use the second rib for the mounting point thus make me feel that my measuring error provided a real or imagined strength benefit as the butt joints are now staggered over two ribs. However, the seam for the butt joint will now need to be glassed and faired. More weight and work as a consequence of my error. Perhaps I should just cover the bottom sheet's butt joint with the prescribed mahogany strip and live with a modest spacing error between two strips. Not sure if this paragraph makes sense but I lack the ability to explain it clearer.
In conclusion, the rib and decorative covering mahogany strip occurring at the plywood butt joint are the center of the universe when laying out the ribs . I got fixated on the rib occurring at the 1 3/4" wide main mahogany beam which led to getting the 1" rib locations out of sorts in regards to a dead on spacing between the decorative mahogany strips.
Though the plans prescribed 3" wide laminated plywood for the landing spot for the windshield, I made them 4' wide to give me wiggle room in response to my proclivity for foredeck measurement errors. Once the windshield is located, I can trim back back any excess on the port side plywood. Tom's plans specify how much the outer windshield frames sweep back from the center window thus how to position the port and starboard windshield landing spots. Much pondering on rib installation on the starboard side where it meets the bulkhead that will support the steering station. Not that difficult an issue but some thinking ahead required on how the steering wheel box and side decks attach to the aft end of the foredeck. Too early to declare victory but I believe I got it right.
*Edit 5/7/2012: The rib that is just aft of the windshield blocking appears to be unnecessary. The foredeck will be trimmed back to the windshield frame on the port and the middle sections.
*Edit 1/3/2013: I screwed up installing the plywood backing for the port and starboard windshield frame landing points. The pictured plywood for these frames sweep back about 145 degrees from the awartship plywood backing for the center windshield. Too severe an angle which should have been about 164 degrees.
Foam insulation is one of the many potential sources of microplastics in indoor spaces. © D. Malmquist/VIMS.
This Saturday Jim and I decided to call it "quits" early. The wooden deck isn't finished yet and the insulation above us needs to be covered. I took this shot randomly and achieved an unexpected result. Didn't even need to crop it; just tweaked the colors in Picasa.
Hope you all have a great weekend!
Blogged here: henningthomsen.wordpress.com/2009/02/13/green-makeover-fo...
Product Name: Inflatable Game Accessories
Product No: GH071
Size: 9mLx5.5mWx1.5mH
Pack: 98x57x57 cm
Weight: 75kg
Material: 0.55mm PLATO PVC Tarpaulin
Cert: CE, SGS, En14960, En71
Feature: High Durability, High Tear Strength, Fade Proof, Flame Retardant M2/B1, Anti-Mildew Treatment, Excellent UV-Resistance, Cold Weather Resistance, Waterproof, Anti-Static, Heat-Insulation
Contact Site:http://www.pangoinflatable.com/
Not just fit and finish, Pango make a second blower tube and hide it if not use. We make the two tubes on different of the bouncer so that could fit the power location. Looking down the road you will find you need a second inflation tube. We want to make sure clients could use the bouncer convenient.
Stronger Baffles
Baffles that are secured by a 840 denier material that provides the MAXIMUM strength of the internal baffling of every inflatables. This material upgrade is unmatched by anyone else in the industry. This material is key to the overall durability of the products we sell.
D Ring Expose
Take a close look at the construction of the "d" rings in the products we sell. A tether system is only as strong as its weakest link. Tether points on the inflatable are extremely durable. The "d" ring tethering System have been laboratory-tested and certified by Professional Engineers for use on all giant slides and all other types of inflatables.
Vinyl（PVCTarpaulin） Expose
At Pango Inflatable, the only products we sell are constructed from the finest coated vinyl. Unlike other vinyl producers, the Coated Vinyl are Lead-Free in addition to meeting the EN71 test by SGS. Lead-Free vinyl are a standard that has been that way since day one. Exposure to lead is dangerous to children. The products Pango Inflatable sell are safe from the effects of lead. As for durability, the materials are a weft inserted substrate, which makes any possible rips virtually impossible.
No Wax Surfaces
We provide removable sliding surfaces for every slides we made, While other only provide the normal vinyl, Inflatable vinyl is not naturally slippery, therefore, waxing has become a normal preparation for getting a slide ready for use. The removable sliding surface found the on the products we sell is a high polished urethane coating, which in turn reduces the need to wax.
Zipper with Flaps
Unlike others, Pango Inflatable sells products that are easy to use. For example, the deflation zipper utilizes a Velcro flap that covers the zipper, thus, less air is lost and zippers are not exposed to abrasion or mischief.
Blower Tube Strap
While most manufacturers tie their blower inflation tubes to the blower system, however, the products Pango Inflatable sells, utilizes a universal sleeve with a cinching Velcro strap. One- handed operation keeps the tube securely attached to the blower system.
Liquid Laminator
DWe do the Digital Printing in our factory, unlike most factory here in China, they do the printing outside and could not control the delivery time and the quality. igitally printed graphics are one thing, keeping those beautiful images durable as well scratch and fade resistant is quite another. Every digital image used within an inflatable sold by Pango Inflatable is clear-coated with a special liquid laminate that is vulcanized to the vinyl surface.
Finger-Safe Netting
Most bouncer manufacturers use 1" or 2" netting. A child bouncing can easily catch their fingers in that size of netting, thus serious injuries can happen. Only the Pango Inflatable could provide netting that even a small child's finger cannot penetrate. Yet, the netting is still transparent enough to allow for easy viewing.
Removable Covers
Virtually every area that your customers step, slide or climb upon is on a replaceable & easily removable vinyl cover. From climbing stairs, to entrance tunnel sleeves to sliding surfaces, Pango Inflatable only sells products that are designed for high-volume traffic.
Safety Door on Bouncers
Worried about children possibly falling out of a bouncer? Don't be. We got 3 points of reinforcement on the entrance of the bouncer which make the entrance very strong. Also we add the step outside the entrance following the AU and USA standards of jumping castle.
On-Staff Engineering and Designing
We do reinforce stitching at the fixion of D-ring. Four stitching line will share the tension of the bouncer. This made the D-ring last much longer and stronger. Other factory use other design of the fixion, but will not good for the tension sharing. Could find the differnce in the attached photos.
Cushion Designs
We do cushion between the wall and the base. When the kids bounce on the bouncer this parts bear most of the pressure, so this new design will make this parts much more strong and safety, while other factory only stitch to the base.
Vermiculite insulation and urea-formaldehyde foam insulation (UFFI) possess properties whose histories cause many to consider them hazardous materials. Some homeowners are familiar with the controversy surrounding these types of insulation, however many are not. Below we've outlined what each type of insulation is and why misconceptions about their safety exist.
Vermiculite is a naturally occurring mineral worldwide. When heated rapidly to high temperatures, this crystalline mineral expands into low density, accordion-like, golden brown strands. In addition to being light, vermiculite chunks are also absorbent and fire retardant. These characteristics make it a great insulating material. With the upsurge in homeownership during the baby boom, vermiculite insulation was a popular material in the 1950s and continued with the energy crisis into the late 1970s. In Canada, it was one of the insulating materials allowed under the Canadian Home Insulation Program from about 1976 to the mid 1980s. Sold under various brand names, such as Zonolite Attic Insulation, the insulation came in big bags. Thousands of homeowners simply opened the bags and poured the vermiculite into their attic floor, as well as down exterior walls.
The majority of the vermiculite used worldwide was from a mine in Libby, Montana. As well as being rich in vermiculite, this mine had the misfortune of having a deposit of tremolite, a type of asbestos. Asbestos minerals tend to separate into microscopic particles that become airborne and are easily inhaled. People exposed to asbestos in the workplace have developed several life-threatening diseases, including lung cancer – workers in and around the Libby mine developed serious health problems. When the vermiculite was extracted from the mine in Libby, some tremolite came in with it, posing a potential threat to homeowners.
Simple side-by-side comparison of two elevated tanks; one with vintage asbestos insulation and the other with asbestos insulation removed.
This is one cheap but effective way of connecting the wire to the laser tube pin.
The insulation needs to withstand 25000-40000V (depending on power supply). We use a combination of shrink tubing and hot glue.
Got some expired film from the car boot sale, in Edinburgh, a few weeks ago, tried out the Kodak Ultra 400 ISO today.
Zenit B with Helios 44-2 58mm f2.
Was going to go for a walk to take photos, but ended up shooting two rolls just in the garden. There was a butterfly "trapped" in the shed - it could easily have gone out the gap in the doorway but, but of course, it fluttered by the window for ages instead. Eventually managed to usher it out the door, but unfortunately it was already way too late for its buddy :(
The insulation between the rafters is soy foam. It doesn't look like much, but it's so good they don't need much.
Copper pipe insulation covers the rough edge of the plywood so that the greenhouse plastic doesn't get worn
we'd put up 2" thick rigid foam insulation over every last inch of the exterior walls. Then hired somebody to come blow in dense pack cellulose insulation fiber into the wall cavities behind the rigid foam. They had to cut a 2" hole for every wall cavity, blow in the insulation, and then afterwards patched up the holes with orange spray-foam.
The shelter is basically a box made of rigid insulation, the storage tub provides protection for the fiberglass panels, but it also creates and additional layer of distance from the cold air.
Underneath the kitchen sink where the repair people had to cut away the previous patch job to find out where the pipe had burst. Turned out to be a foot long section of pipe with 5 welds. Pink insulation is too low an R-Value to sufficiently insulate the copper pipe from freezing.
This year we've helped an Oldham business to improve the energy efficiency of their offices by installing cavity wall and loft insulation.