View allAll Photos Tagged howto
Note: we did not get a photo of the "add essential oil" step. We used a mini pipette. We added 20 drops of willamette valley peppermint essential oil. Mint essential oil is strong. If you use another essential oil you may want to add a few more drops depending on how strong you want the scent.
We used a large pipette to put the final mixture into the containers as it can be a messy job and we wanted the containers to be clean.
30" x 24", 2008
A mini passage quilt made from Mark's 6 month old jumper and his mother Elizabeth's maternity shirt.
Pin and sew your skirt to the bodice. Keep the bodice buttoned so that they overlap like in the above picture.
Cut/flatten the other tube in the same manner. Match them face-to-face to see if they're the same. They should be as close as possible.
One usually ends up being larger than the other, so I go back to the smaller one and make them equal.
A little crafty tip to bring the pattern back:
missniff.blogspot.com/2010/03/how-to-revive-pattern-on-fe...
Having the right pot is key. This was my grandmothers, then my mothers, now mine. It's a double walled cast aluminum 4.5 quart pot. You can also use any good, heavy stock pan but make sure it holds at least 4 quarts or don't double the recipe!
Now that the needle is back through the drilled hole, you should push it through another hole in the backing button and then tie several knots with the two ends, to ensure that the covered button does not come loose. Do not pull the thread too tightly! You want to reduce stress on the embroidery thread, if possible.
I had been very excited to know about the rural play feature coming in software update 3.50 since I have purchased a PlayStation 4 last year to myself as a surprise. I installed it immediately and tried it on Computer and my Mac to view it worked.
Total, I’d supply the remote play include...
www.teudi.com/sony-ps4-remote-play-to-windows-or-mac-setu...
I've found that a light coat of flux is much better than globs of it. Same goes for any brass fillets other than dropouts.
I'm using the GFM blue paste from Henry James.
8x10
acrylic on canvas
With this paint I demonstrate the process of blending acrylic paint. I get an awful lot of question on this subject. Truthfully its the hardest aspect of acrylic painting or just something to learn. It depends entirely on our prospective.
you can see a demo video here:
1. put the photo in its own layer A (make a copy of the original in a separate layer!)
2. layer B is the part of the background hidden by the dotted lines. ( ie, what you would see thru the spiral strip), this can be made by "borrowing" from similar parts of the picture.
when seen together, layer A and B would appear as if the area bounded by the dotted line had disappeared!
3, create layer C by cut-n-pasting the dotted area from layer A (keep the selection active - ie. keep the selection ants marching)
4. create a new layer D and fill the selection with a cylindrical gradient using a contrasting color - this will become the "inside skin". turn off marching ants (ie. deselect)
5. temporarily make D invisible and select layer C - then use standard layer masking techniques to erase parallel parts of layer C until you get the desired number of strips. (they should all be going in the "zig" direction)
6. make D visible and select it - then use same layer masking to make the opposing sides of the spiral. (these strips should be going in the "zag" direction).
keep layer C visible! you will need the ends of those strips as guides for drawing the strips of this layer - it's as easy as connecting dots!
7, layer C and D together should appear as a zig zag line - which is the "side view" of a spiral.
8. the effect can be seen here: www.flickr.com/photos/manyone/3971054180/
(i hope this is helpful)
Check to see if your cut and cap are fairly flat. The flatter the cut, the easier it is to braze and the less it will distort.
The Incra ShopSTOP fits on the Incra TRACK loosely. It just drops on from the top, and slides in either direction. It's gold surface slides on the track's gold top, not touching the recessed lexan ruler. The red part is clamped into a T-slot on top of the gold part of the stop via the big black thumb knobs. You can also loosen it, slide the red part free entirely, and slide it back in the closer of the two T-slots, if you want the front of the red stop to reach over an auxiliary fence clamped to the front of the track, via it's T-slot, visible just above my left thumb here.
By loosening the white thumb screws here, the stop can be pushed back a bit, clearing its teeth from the teeth in the back of the track, and allowing it to slide. You can 'eyeball' the edge of the stop to a mark on the ruler, and when you tighten the screws up again, the teeth engage, and the stop is pulled into perfect, absolute, preset alignment. The teeth are 1/32" wide, so there are quite a lot of absolute, repeatable positions, and it only takes a few seconds to loosen it, slide it to a new mark, and tighten it back into perfect placement.
Here I've aligned the right edge of the stop (the gold part of the stop) with the 0 on the ruler. At this step, I felt free to wiggle the ruler a bit to really make it appear to line up, so all marks later would appear perfect to me. The little screw sticking out of the nylon nut on the right of the stop is in itself a little stop for the red part of the stop. By turning that (with the black knobs loosened), the red part can be dialed in by very tiny increments. During the test cuts phase, you can use this to really get it exactly where you want it, and then tighten the knobs back down to solidify the stop once more.