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The Incra ShopSTOP fits on the Incra TRACK loosely. It just drops on from the top, and slides in either direction. It's gold surface slides on the track's gold top, not touching the recessed lexan ruler. The red part is clamped into a T-slot on top of the gold part of the stop via the big black thumb knobs. You can also loosen it, slide the red part free entirely, and slide it back in the closer of the two T-slots, if you want the front of the red stop to reach over an auxiliary fence clamped to the front of the track, via it's T-slot, visible just above my left thumb here.
By loosening the white thumb screws here, the stop can be pushed back a bit, clearing its teeth from the teeth in the back of the track, and allowing it to slide. You can 'eyeball' the edge of the stop to a mark on the ruler, and when you tighten the screws up again, the teeth engage, and the stop is pulled into perfect, absolute, preset alignment. The teeth are 1/32" wide, so there are quite a lot of absolute, repeatable positions, and it only takes a few seconds to loosen it, slide it to a new mark, and tighten it back into perfect placement.
Here I've aligned the right edge of the stop (the gold part of the stop) with the 0 on the ruler. At this step, I felt free to wiggle the ruler a bit to really make it appear to line up, so all marks later would appear perfect to me. The little screw sticking out of the nylon nut on the right of the stop is in itself a little stop for the red part of the stop. By turning that (with the black knobs loosened), the red part can be dialed in by very tiny increments. During the test cuts phase, you can use this to really get it exactly where you want it, and then tighten the knobs back down to solidify the stop once more.
Supplies: 1 sheet card stock, 1 sheet paper, 2 pieces of bubble wrap, ruler, inkless pen, art knife, rubber cement, cutting mat and scissors.
A detailed tutorial is available here:
thisis.notarobot.net/2007/08/make-your-own-bubble-mailers...
Everyone should have a pair of furry leg warmers, of course. They can also double nicely as a pair of boot covers. I just whipped up a pair for Halloween.
Because of the way we had our lumber cut, we ended up with a spare piece of board which we had cut to be slightly smaller than the headboard (28") and we used this scrap wood as an additional support beam in the middle of the headboard. This scrap plank was attached just as in Steps 6-8. This is likely an optional step.
Pick a front-center of the flower, and attach an embellishment. I used a handful of gold seed beads.
A little crafty tip to bring the pattern back:
missniff.blogspot.com/2010/03/how-to-revive-pattern-on-fe...
After brushing, rinse out the toothpaste with tap water and spit out into your sink. Several rinses are recommended.
The bulk of the headboard should be supported by placing the support beams behind the bed. We did not do any fancy measurements to be able to screw the headboard into the rails, so for some additional support we inserted Velcro with both sticky sides revealed between the wall and each support beam. This is likely an optional step.