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Mosebacke Torg, located in the Sodermalm district of Stockholm, took shape after the 1857 fire here. (Its current look is from the 1941 renovation.)
Dominated by the Sodra Teatern (more on that below), you can also find the Mosebacke Portal, which leads out to the terrace and beer garden, and a nice sculpture called Systrarna. It's a small square, but very relaxing.
In addition to being the home of the fictional Lisbeth Salander, Sodermalm has also been the home to some more well-known real folks, too. The most famous (I'd say) is the actress Greta Garbo. She grew up in Soder (and is buried nearby in Skogskyrkogarden). Lesser known folks from here are from the arts scene: Yung Lean, Bladee, and Ecco2K are all from the Swedish rap community, and all from Soder. (You can find them on YouTube and form your own opinions of them if you're ambitious.)
Sodermalm. As mentioned in the Ostermalm posts, if you look at Gamla Stan (Old Town) in Stockholm as the city's "ground zero," which it was, the nearby areas are Norrmalm, Ostermalm, and Sodermalm. (Respectively, "east district," "north district," and "south district."). Ostermalm is the upscale neighborhood, and has been since its facelift in the 18th and 19th centuries.
Sodermalm...was considered the slums. Connected (now) to Gamla Stan by a number of bridges, rail bridges, and the Slussen locks, this was mainly a rural and agricultural area until the 17th century. It was first mentioned in the historical record in 1288 A.D., so has technically been around for a while.
The most notable feature of Sodermalm -- to me, anyway -- are the cliffs on the north side of the district. (There are a few viewpoints which give great views of Gamla Stan, Kungsholmen, Djurgarden, and beyond.)
What's Sodermalm all about, though? As it was the opposite of Ostermalm, this was the working class domain. You can still find some of the working class cottages on the northeast part of Sodermalm. You'll also find a bit of an ethnic mix here, too, as this neighborhood was more affordable for immigrants. That's changing, though.
As Gamla Stan and Ostermalm have grown more populous, the overflow has started to come here, both gentrifying the neighborhood and raising the price of housing. So what started as rural farmland (much like Ostermalm...everywhere, really), turned into the working class slum, and is now what you would call "bohemian," "trendy," "alternative," etc. Sodermalm is sometimes called "the Brooklyn of Stockholm."
The immigrants are being pushed farther out (outside of Ringvagen) and the parts of Sodermalm with a view of Stockholm are awfully expensive, yet still feel a little gritty.
It's absolutely worth taking your time to see while you're in Stockholm, though, simply for its mix of class and culture.
There are great eateries all over Sodermalm. (Believe it or not, some of the best Thai food I've had outside of Thailand -- was from a food truck in the Skanstull section of Soder.). Another fun option is Meatballs for the People (standard Swedish meatballs, but you can also get them made with various meats like moose or reindeer...if you're adventurous enough).
There are a handful of churches in the area: Sofiakyrka, Hogalidskyrkan, St. Eric's Cathedral, Katarina Church, Mary Magdalene Church. The Stockholm Mosque is in Soder.
There are some beautiful little squares to take a rest. Nytorget, Mariatorget, Mosebacke Torg, among others. At Mosebacke Torg, you'll find the Sodra Teatern, which is one of Sweden't oldest active theaters, operating in this building since 1859.
You won't find much street art (of note) in Sodermalm, but near Katarina Church, you can use Google maps to find a nice mural by the Brazilian twins Os Gemeos. (Which means...the twins.). It's between Katarina Church and Mosebacke Torg. Also near there is the Katarina elevator, which can take you from the heights of Sodermalm down to the waterfront.
If you choose to go to the waterfront on the elevator, and are facing Gamla Stan, you can turn to your right and head to Fotografiska, which is a museum dedicated to the art of photography. They also have an excellent (if expensive) restaurant with a great view of Gamla Stan.
All in all, Sodermalm is definitely worth some extra time here in Stockholm. You could easily spend a relaxed day or two in this neighborhood alone.
Current students and alumni from the Sutton Trust programme join staff and guests of the Fulbright Commission to celebrate the graduation of the chorot with a drinks reception at Tate Britain, 4th July 2019
Photography by Fergus Burnett
Accreditation required with all use - 'fergusburnett.com'
Currently on display at Ye Olde Fabric Shoppe - 327 Erie St., Stratford, Ontario
Donated By: Evelyn Stong - Bradford, Ontario
Created By: Evelyn Stong
Quilt Story: A circle is never ending, and the research for a cure is never ending. Those faced with cancer form a circle as well. A circle of family, friends and caregivers who surround them to comfort and support.
Pattern: Meadow Lily Bridge
Technique: /Machine
Size: 18 x 18
Price: $50
For more information on Willow’s Comfort Quilts,
call 1.888.778.3100 or visit www.willow.org
at a local coffee house, something i haven't participated with previously, part of the downtown cultural crawl summer events. two series that complement each other, elements earth and water combining 11 pieces. the truly scary part was hanging my own pieces, i haven't done that before. but now two weeks in nothing has fallen to the floor and all seems well. when i come home from holidays it will be time to pack it all back up!
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