View allAll Photos Tagged bracketing
Massu (L) and Busio of FlyQuest react onstage during MSI 2025 Bracket Stage Day 7 at the Pacific Coliseum in Vancouver, Canada on July 08, 2025. (Photo by Colin Young-Wolff/Riot Games).
My first time to win a March Madness Bracket. Man it feels good!
1st out of 55!!!
Super Mario Chalmers!!!!
Shiny reflectors on the can lights are a bit out of sync with the plaster frieze, but who I am to judge?
This is indoors, in case it wasn't clear.
This bracket is to be used on 66-69 B-Body cars that do not have a sway bar end link mount attached to the lower control arms. This CNC bent bracket can be welded in place and allows the attachment of a front sway bar such as Hotchkis Sport Suspension item 2255 or 2255F.
Part # 23366
Hotchkis Sport Suspension
Toll Free: 888-735-6425
Tropical Cinnabar Bracket Fungi grow on dead trees and wood. This one I photographed near The Big Tree in the Tsitsikamma National Park on the Garden Route, South Africa
This is a basic demo of white balance auto-bracketing available on the Nikon D300 and several other cameras.
My original setting was simply "daylight" and I set the WB bracketing to go over and under to the maximum allowed by the camera, which is 15 mired. (I offer that information for those who understand it and will not take space here to explain something that I only comprehend at the most basic level myself.)
The direct sunlight setting is about 5,200°K on the D300. In this range, 15 mired would be (very) approximately plus or minus something on the order of 500°K.
If anyone can do the actual calculations, I will gladly edit this to reflect the proper information.
Anyhow...
On the D300, once you establish the WB bracketing sequence, you press the shutter release one time and the camera instantly creates the number of images required to match up to your setting. This demo only shows one over and one under, but you are able to choose from 8 different series that range from either one over or under to up to 4 over with 4 under.
For this demo, I did absolutely nothing to the image other than downsize it significantly so it would be manageable as an upload to Flickr. I reduced it from the original 300 ppi to 72 ppi and that's it.
The bracket is secured with the bottom screw from the hood latch. I used dielectric grease for each contact on the harness. Secured the supertones to the bracket and then wiretied the harness down the center of the latch support. I had to do some hand bending to align the supertones to my liking. Pretty easy and they were perfectly aligned in minutes.
New Wooden Bar Foot Rail Kits just out of production and available soon online. Watch for details. 1-844-BAR-RAIL
Today (15 November) I re-assembled the Robin Hood's bottom bracket. I used all new bearings and a proper bracket sleeve-liner to keep the inner workings cleaner for longer. I very carefully adjusted the cups until the spindle turned freely with no play. I then slipped on the cranks and put the cotter pins into place, using the new cotter-pin press that Will thoughtfully bought as a sort of thank-you present for us letting him use our porch and tools to work on his bike. The pins fit--the crank arms are set at exactly 180 degrees to one another--and most importantly, the awful clunking that was present when you turned the pedals is gone! This thing is going to run!