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Viewfinder camera: AGFA Optima 1035 Sensor
Lens: Agfa Solitar S 40mm f/2.8
Film: Fomapan 200 Creative
Filter: Rodenstock Yellow medium (8)
Film was processed and scanned by "Fotofond" in Kyiv. I am happy with the results.
To see the pictures taken with this camera click here.
Thank you for your comments and Fav's.
Vandaag de krukas positie sensor (crankshaft position sensor) vervangen. 99% zekerheid dat dit de oorzaak van mn uitval problemen is van de laatste tijd.
Info:
Camera: Sony Xperia Z3
Agfa Optima 500 Sensor
Apotar - Paratic lens f= 42mm, 1:2,8
Auto exposure or B
35mm film
Here some example photos taken with it.
Aspecto de un sensor de cámara. Este es el circuito integrado encargado de captar la luz, ya sea esta de celular, webcam, reflex o compacta. El plastico color ambar es el Filtro Bayer (a vaces llamado mosaico o máscara Bayer) y es la encargada de seleccionadar los 3 colores primarios de luz que le llegarán al sensor.
'ISO Cog' fixed wheel (front MTB disc hub with bolt on sprocket, laced (by my own fair hands) to a 700c rim)
DIY slide duplicator for 1.6x crop sensor camera. version 2, using a Soligor Nikon mount 35mm f2.8 lens. For more details on the project, see:
MOC: Sensor GTR. The rear end turned out well, I think, with the Ferrari-like taillights, the exhaust pipes (it's the first time I've tried that technique, but it won't be the last) and the engine cover.
This is the new temperature sensor w/ power indicator LED, and a new connector interface (RJ45 + backup .100 headers.)
More info here: make.rrrf.org/ts-2.0
The spine touch sensor on the back of the dress.
More info at www.drawingconclusions.net/textiles/#Under-The-Surface
Image sensor as picture object to test the resolution. The fine structure is ideal for measurements in sharpness of the reverse lenses.
I found the sensor type number on the chip:
Image sensor CCD KC73129
• Number of Total Pixels: 537(H) ´ 597(V)
• Number of Effective Pixels: 500(H) ´ 582(V)
• Chip Size: 6.00mm(H) ´ 5.10mm(V)
• Unit Pixel Size: 9.80um(H) ´ 6.30um(V)
IR sensor voor Fischertechnik kogelbaan. De IR sensor kan werken op 5V en op 9V. Hij is niet gevoeilig voor omgevings licht. Zelfs getest in volle zon blijft hij correct werken. Het stroomverbruik door de IR diode is ongeveer 9mA en de load voor de Phototransistor is 5 mA. Burst van kogels worden mooi verwerkt. Ook getest met de TXT Controller Fischertechnik en 9V voeding.
3D files:
A split-core AC current sensor responsive over the range of 0 to 20 amps AC for use with U12 data loggers with external input channels. With an input current of AC current, sine wave, single phase 50 Hz or 60 Hz, load power factor 0.5 to 1.0 lead or lag.
This is a prototype dual axis angular sensor with video camera that I made. Actually is just two linear taper potentiometers, a web cam, and some scrap plastic bent in to shape, but dual axis angular sensor sounds cooler
MOC: Sensor GTR. The front end is what prompted me to give it this name - I realised it bears a (vague) resemblance to the real Swedish Sensor GTR.
MOC: Sensor GTR. A variation of the theme from my previous Supercar - I wanted to see if I could build something a supercar that looked a bit more like it was meant for the road than for the track. Very happy with the result.
This is the new temperature sensor w/ power indicator LED, and a new connector interface (RJ45 + backup .100 headers.)
More info here: make.rrrf.org/ts-2.0
For others interested in shooting digital photos of squash, here is what I've learned:
1. White Balance is important. The Auto sensor doesn't work well for me here. The effort to get it right pays off in spades. If you just set it to fluorescent as most squash court lights are, you are on the right track. I have found that if I leave it on Auto, it jumps around from shot to shot. Remember that fluorescent as opposed to incandescent lights strobe and at a fast shutter speed your camera will capture light at different frequencies leading to a range of color casts. (You can always cheat with black and white)
2. Resign yourself to a high ISO setting. I often have to go to 1600 and the resulting 'digital noise' drives me nuts but its that or blurry shots. That said, assuming you have adequate lighting, I've been able to dial down to ISO 1000 or even 800 by shooting in manual mode and not zooming too much. Photoshop can make up some of the difference.
3. The cleanliness of the backwall glass is critical. I have taken to bringing a little bottle of windex and rags with me although I didn't have it on this latest batch. You can see the smears and glare all over. Even if you just wet a towel and clean the glass between games, it helps a lot.
4. I recommend shooting a large format and normal resolution photo at a wider angle and cropping to size later rather than zooming to tight shots. As nice as some of the zooms can be, the resulting loss in minimum aperture more than offsets the gains in my humble opinion. So buy yourself a honkin' big memory card and blast away.
5. ALWAYS ASK before you take photos of players. Everyone appreciates it and you don't have to apologize later. No one has turned me down yet.
6. I would set your camera to aperture priority and crank it down to the widest one you have. Then take some test shots on your court. If you are getting shutter speeds of 1/500/sec or faster, you can adjust. Try never to go below 1/320/sec. Below 1/250 is a waste of time. If you are getting better than 1/500th, I wouldn't narrow the aperture, I'd dial back the ISO. I personally prefer less noise over greater depth.
7. If you have the chance to shoot the same courts over and over it is possible to optimize your shots above and beyond what I've written here. I now set my Nikon D70 to full manual with these settings: f/4 1/320 ISO:1000 AF-Continuous mode. About as good as I can get.
8. Get your lens as close to the backwall glass as you can. This helps minimize the glare and smudges. I have taken to extending my pinky finger on my lens support hand to keep in constant contact with the glass. Seems to help.
Good luck!
Qstreet Photo
Qstreet @ Gmail . com
DIY slide duplicator for 1.6x crop sensor camera. version 1, using a Vivitar OM mount 28mm f2.8 lens. For more details on the project, see:
In the den. So if Rick tries to sneak in and watch my TV, it may or may not set off an alarm of some type.
Agfamatic Sensor 100, Germany, 1971.
What must be the best, most minimalist case ever designed for a camera.
The Agfamatic 100 is a viewfinder camera for Pak-Film 126 cassettes. It has an Agfa Colorstar lens with fixed focus and fixed aperture. Two shutter speeds are selectable with the ring around the lens barrel, the scale showing a cloud and a sun symbol. The camera has a single stroke advance lever that advances the film, cocks the Parator shutter and turns the flash cube holder on which magicubes can be fired as flash. On the axis of the advance lever is the red "sensor", the shutter release button hidden under a round piece of red foil.
-Camerapedia