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Always nice to see one. Quite love the striping too.
Didn't feel like taking of my telelens though :)
While I've got a few cameras to choose from, my Canon F-1 is my favorite. I like the FD mount lenses; less confusing that the Nikon's NON AI, AI, and AIS mounts-I can't keep them straight. The other thing I like is the feel of the camera. Its quite heavy, a very solid feel.
This camera has got a Tokina 80-200mm f2.8 constant aperture zoom. This is a fast, extremely sharp lens that is easy to focus in low light situations. A much better lens that my $1000. 75-300mm IS Canon lens and it was only about 1/7th the cost.
What can I say, I like Canon's. My first camera was a Canon TX with a 55-135mm Canon FL zoom. I loaned it out and never saw it again. When I recently found a mint Canon TX and a 55-135mm Canon lens, I had to buy it. The TX is in this set and looks unused; the 55-135mm Canon lens also is mint with it original case and lens shade. Fine Japanese cameras and accessories cost a small forture in the 1970's. A Canon F-1 with a lens was around $1500. The F1 was build to military specs to survive in the jungles of Viet Nam; an environment that would kill most digitals in a day. The F1 and F1N have great moisture barriers that protect the electronics in high humidity environments. I prefer my F1N and underwater gear when traveling to humid areas. A previous trip to Costa Rica during the rainy season taught me the value of well designed moisture barriers. All of my camera gear without moisture barriers fried out and never worked again.
I noticed that Van Straalen's comment indicating that these camera are worth "niente" translation-Nothing. Actually, these cameras have become "cult classics" and have started to increase in value. Last year they usually sold for $250. on Ebay or less, now they're going for up to and over $500. I feel that demand for fine manual cameras will increase over time. They'll never make cameras like this again and there will always be people, who like me, prefer to shoot film. Look at how fine older Leicas have increase in value despite their limited technology. LIkewise with watches, you can purchase a plastic digital watch for fifty cents or a Rolex for $2000 and up. They'll both keep time but which would you prefer to own? While low end film gear may be cheap, fine film gear will likely appreciate in value. t's my digital gear that depreciates daily.
(Update: I just saw a fine Nikon D70 body for $100 a few days ago so I bought it for my daughter; a Canon XT with the kit lens was $200 and went to her twin sister. I figured it wouldn't be long before a decent 35mm film SLR would sell for more than a digital SLR).
Pentax ES "Electro Spotmatic" from 1971, first Pentax with electronic shutter and full-aperture metering, probably the first SLR offering aperture-priority AE at all.
For full-aperture metering there must be a coupling between lens and camera, so that the camera can read out the set f-stop. The Pentax lenses with that coupling for the M42 thread mount are called "Super-Multi-Coated Takumar" or "SMC Takumar". As far as I know there are only three cameras which make use of this coupling: ES, ES II and Spotmatic F. Those lenses have an auto/manual switch (in manual mode the lens is always stopped-down), if such a lens is attached to an ES (or ES II, SP F) you can't trip this switch from auto to manual.
As mentioned above, the ES provides an aperture-priority AE mode: you set an f-stop and then the camera selects a shutter speed, which is shown in the viewer when you press the shutter button half-way. In manual mode the shutter is working fully mechanically (without a battery), but you have only fast shutter speeds (1/60 up to 1/1000) and B and the light meter is switched off. I think this is why some people don't like this camera.
Automatic exposure also works with other M42 lenses than the SMC lenses, but only stopped-down of course (lever near the lens mount).
The camera needs one PX 28 battery (6 V). I think you can use four SR44 button cells with some tape for isolation instead. If you press the small button beside the rewind crank the battery power is checked: the needle for the shutter speed should move from 1/1000 to at least 1/30.
munich
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Range Finder Pro:
Quiet operation
Bright viewfinder image
Easy to focus with slow lens in low light
Easy to focus with dark filter on the lens
Camera with leaf shutter has many flash sync shutter speeds
Minimal vibrations during exposure
Subject visible in viewfinder at moment of exposure
Range Finder Con:
Parallax problem
Not good for macrophotography
Not good for extreme wide-angle shots
Not good for extreme telephoto shots
Depth of field not visible in viewfinder
Filter effect not visible in viewfinder
Lens and/or lens hood may block part of image seen in viewfinder
Hard to change film in the middle of a roll
Easy to make the mistake of shooting with the lens cap on
SLR (Single Lens Reflex) Pro:
Excellent value for the money spent
Many models available
Many accessories available
Excellent for macrophotography
No parallax problem
Fast to operate
Good for extreme wide-angle shots
Good for extreme telephoto shots
Depth of field visible in viewfinder
Filter effect visible in viewfinder
Difficult to make the mistake of shooting with the lens cap on
SLR (Single Lens Reflex) Con:
Noisy operation
Moving mirror causes vibrations during exposure
Camera with focal plane shutter has limited number of flash sync speeds
Hard to change film in the middle of a roll
Subject in viewfinder disappears during exposure
Image viewed through waist level viewfinder is reversed left to right
Difficult to focus with dark filter on the lens
Conclusion:
A Rangefinder is better than an SLR except when the reverse is true.
Ferrari FF , Mercedes SLR McClaren, ACR Dodge Viper, and a Nissan GT-R all in one shot. Which would you choose?
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Type: SLR body
Manufacturer: Nikon
Films: 35mm, speeds ISO 25 to 4000 (DX-coded) or ISO 12 to 3200 (manual selection)
Lens mount: Nikon F bayonet
Viewfinder: Fixed eye level pentaprism, 0.85x magnification, 92% frame coverage, displays shutter speed, under- or overexposure, ready-light for TTL flash
Metering: TTL center-weighted (60/40), meter activated by lightly pressing shutter release button, EV 1 - 19 at ISO 100, f 1.4
Shutter: Electronic vertical metallic focal plane shutter, speeds: 1-1/2000 sec
Exposure modes:
P: normal program, aperture and speed set automatically
P HI: faster program (for moving subjects)
A: aperture priority
manual
Exposure memory lock via button
Dimensions: 149×98×51mm
Motorized film transport with manual rewind
DX decoding