View allAll Photos Tagged QTips
I have owned this cash register for several decades now, of which I rescued from a fire damaged pharmacy on New York's Lower East Side around 1995. (At that time, one of the owners of the pharmacy chain I was working for (Thriftway Pharmacy) had a side business of buying out sundries & merchandise from bankrupt and smoke/water damaged retail stores at substantially cut prices, and reselling them at nominal prices thereby substantially increasing the profit margin.
In the process of clearing out one such place, I happened upon this cash register lying on its side under the pharmacy shelves in about 2 inches of murky water.
To be quite honest, it almost was not rescued, as my transportation that day was my bosses brand new Mercedes 500SEL, and as you can imagine he was extremely reluctant in allowing some dripping, sooty monstrosity in his new car. He wouldn't even allow it in the trunk. I managed to convince him to allow me to take it but only after I wrapped it in three contractor bags and agreed to hold it in my lap for the hour long ride home.
Upon my getting it home, I immediately proceeded to clean it up. I took note that one of the glass panels were broken (the customer side) and the top glass completely gone. The NO SALE flag was also missing. I had my local glazier cut me replacement glass and I installed it, but not before I made a crude NO SALE flag out of cardboard and a Qtip..
The dealer markings reflect that this machine was sold by:
Bronx Cash Register
341 East 149 Street,
Bronx, NY
established 1912,
MOtt Haven 9-5888
As it turned out Bronx Cash Register was still in business and I contacted them but they could not offer information, sales records or parts.
It operates fairly smoothly, then out of the blue, the keys will jam. I learned the mechanism pretty well from my cleaning, so I pretty much know how to unjam it without too much effort. Upon my examination I discovered that someone very crudely tried to repair the dollar position advance wheel and cam on the days tally wheel.
The tally advance up to 99 cents but does not advance the to the next dollar. I loosened up the set screw and pushed it off to the side, disabling the dollar advance.
After getting it all cleaned and lubricated I put some circa 1928 currency and older silver coinage in it. And it sat on my desk in my room for years. My father enjoyed its presence as he also had an National cash register (see other album), but his is a much younger Model 1098 that came from a toy store "Waldell's Hobbies on Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn) that bought out. (Model 1098 - s/n 2726474). I think is can be a safe conclusion that my affection for cash registers came from him!
After the internet makes its way into my life, I was able to determine it is a 300 series.
I subsequently move upstate and continued displaying it and has been a focal point of my furnishings.
Recently, events in my life have seen me relocate to Texas and of course, the register came with me. Space is a little more at a premium, so it was in storage. So for a rainy day project today, I decided to get the register out of storage and clean it up. Also, the keys got jammed again when a friend tried to operate it.
So, I took the case apart, vacuumed and blew down the innards with an air nozzle, and got the mechanism to release. Somehow that welded cam wheel slipped back to its original place in moving.
I lubricated all moving parts with a liberal application of PB Blaster and wipe down. Upon reassembly, and as I now had the advantage of the internet as a resource for parts and information, I decided to do a little research
After finding a lot of 300 series in brass, I found none painted. This made me slightly suspicious. Mine is clearly black wrinkle finish paint. Honestly, it appears quite well done, with all parts inside & out evenly coated. I couldn't help but feel it was a factory paint. I searched eBay, and the web, but alas couldn't not find a painted model.
I learned where the model number should be, but on first exam, it was not present on my machine and my tag area appeared blank. But, after a closer exam, there were in fact screws holding down a plate, so after quick work with a screwdriver, I realized the model s/n tag had been screwed on to the machine face down and painted over! This must have been done before I owned it as I would not have done such a thing..
This would now lead me to believe the machine has been painted after original purchase and now perhaps not original as I once thought.
Once I turned the tag over, I learned it was a Model 312, with s/n 1283677. (Made after 6/6/1913 if I understand the data records correctly). I also took the cash drawer out and read the guarantee label affixed to the bottom:
Register Number 2388283
Size 711
Finish Mah
Tracer (blank)
Customer (blank)
Not listed on the label but confirmed from collector websites is the ornate pattern on the case is "Dolphin" and was designed by none other the Tiffany.
So now my questions. Internet references reflect the following versions of the Model 312:
( A ) Bronze, oxidized and relieved
This cabinet was a solid bronze casting that was dipped in a black oxide chemical, which turned the cabinet black. The flat edges and the high points of the casting were polished, leaving the black in the low areas and highly shined bronze edging. It was then lacquered to maintain the finish.
( B ) Nickel plated*
This cabinet is usually a solid yellow brass (or sometimes cast iron)* casting that was nickel plated. The drawer front was generally solid nickel because the nickel plating would easily wear off when closing the drawer. Yellow brass is made from copper, zinc and tin. Bronze is copper and tin. Both copper and tin are expensive, so the zinc makes it a lot cheaper to make and was used for most plated machines. Often if they didn't have all of the parts in brass, they would use a bronze part. After many years of wear, the nickel becomes worn off in spots. If you remove all of the nickel, you often find 3 colors, red bronze, yellow brass and solid nickel. This machine will have to be re-plated? Highly polished and lacquered.
( C ) Bronze, natural color.
This cabinet was solid bronze castings. Highly polished and lacquered.
( D ) Oxidized copper and relieved*
This machine is usually made with yellow brass (or cast iron)* casting which were copper plated. The copper was thicker than nickel and would not wear off, so the drawer front was also copper plated brass. It was dipped in the black oxide chemical and the edges and high points of the pattern were highly polished, leaving bright copper edging with the lower areas black. Also lacquered.
( E ) Yellow brass, Natural color
This machine was solid brass castings that were highly polished and lacquered.
( En ) Black enamel, ornamented. (Class 100 only)
This machine is solid yellow castings that were dipped in black oxide and the edges and high points highly polished leaving the black in the low areas. Also lacquered.
Wood Cabinets
Some of the early machines were offered in a solid wood cabinet. These cabinets were made from Oak, Quarter Sawn Oak, Birch, Mahogany, Black Walnut and many other expense woods. They had burled veneer and fancy inlayed patterns of different wood veneers. These were often accented with brass and nickel inlays, as well as nickel plated drawer pull and other hardware.
Many inlay patterns were named such as: The Shell Pattern,Lilly of the Valley, Tulip Pattern, and the Persimmon pattern.
Clearly, my machine is NOT any of the above. It is NOT an early machine (those being 1800's), but my drawer is marked for Mah (Mahogany) and it's obvious there is no wooden cabinet. Was the current drawer a replacement?
What does an original Model 312 in Mah finish look like?Does that mean a brown paint? This machine is clearly black wrinkle finish and the only wood is the base, which is painted black as well.
I looked at some of the locations where the paint was chipped and the underlying metal does appear to be polished nickel. Therefore, would the paint be original from National or is this a customer applied paint job?
Hours of research on the web does not turn up painted examples of a 312. Also the case is mostly not magnetic, however in some areas this is a weak pull, but I'm concluding the magnet is attracted to the cast iron internal frames.
If the black wrinkle finish is not original, whether to leave the machine as is or strip the finish is to be decided. I wish to make it clear, I know this decision is up to my preference, but I also wish to make it clear the machine is more of sentimental value than monetary value, so a restoration to original condition for eventual resale or to increase in value is not my intent as I have no plans to sell it..
The denomination keys "buttons": I looked at the vintage catalog, and it shows white numerals on black for all keys except NO SALE which is black on orange. My register however has:
- black numerals on white for the 10 cent denominations (10, 20, 30, 40, 50);
- white numerals on red for the cent denominations (1 through 9 EXCEPT the 5 which is black on white).
- black on orange for NO SALE.
I know that the 5 button on adding machines, calculators and other registers almost always contrasted for easy recognition so this I figure is original, and as dad's model 1098 is the same way.
I would like to replace the NO SALE flag with an original. An unrestored one to match the other flags would be preferred. As the NO SALE flag appears to be in the same position on all the 300 models (far right for the clerk - far left for the customer), I would conclude all the 300 series NO SALE flags are compatible.
The drawer front is clearly smooth painted metal. All the images I've encountered show the cast National drawer front. Is mine missing or was there / this a "budget" model 312 omitted some of the ornamentation or perhaps there was a wood front in Mahogany?
On the right side of the keyboard, the numerals 5145 are stamped into the front edge. This number is also stamped on the inside of the back metal case. It does not match the warranty registration or the serial number.
So many questions abound. If you have answers, please feel free to contact me at bedt14@aol.com
Technically not the Q-Tip brand but close enough for the shot. Taken with a Canon 35mm f/2 lens. Type L for a better view.
Our Daily Challenge - Soft - 2/25/11
I have owned this cash register for several decades now, of which I rescued from a fire damaged pharmacy on New York's Lower East Side around 1995. (At that time, one of the owners of the pharmacy chain I was working for (Thriftway Pharmacy) had a side business of buying out sundries & merchandise from bankrupt and smoke/water damaged retail stores at substantially cut prices, and reselling them at nominal prices thereby substantially increasing the profit margin.
In the process of clearing out one such place, I happened upon this cash register lying on its side under the pharmacy shelves in about 2 inches of murky water.
To be quite honest, it almost was not rescued, as my transportation that day was my bosses brand new Mercedes 500SEL, and as you can imagine he was extremely reluctant in allowing some dripping, sooty monstrosity in his new car. He wouldn't even allow it in the trunk. I managed to convince him to allow me to take it but only after I wrapped it in three contractor bags and agreed to hold it in my lap for the hour long ride home.
Upon my getting it home, I immediately proceeded to clean it up. I took note that one of the glass panels were broken (the customer side) and the top glass completely gone. The NO SALE flag was also missing. I had my local glazier cut me replacement glass and I installed it, but not before I made a crude NO SALE flag out of cardboard and a Qtip..
The dealer markings reflect that this machine was sold by:
Bronx Cash Register
341 East 149 Street,
Bronx, NY
established 1912,
MOtt Haven 9-5888
As it turned out Bronx Cash Register was still in business and I contacted them but they could not offer information, sales records or parts.
It operates fairly smoothly, then out of the blue, the keys will jam. I learned the mechanism pretty well from my cleaning, so I pretty much know how to unjam it without too much effort. Upon my examination I discovered that someone very crudely tried to repair the dollar position advance wheel and cam on the days tally wheel.
The tally advance up to 99 cents but does not advance the to the next dollar. I loosened up the set screw and pushed it off to the side, disabling the dollar advance.
After getting it all cleaned and lubricated I put some circa 1928 currency and older silver coinage in it. And it sat on my desk in my room for years. My father enjoyed its presence as he also had an National cash register (see other album), but his is a much younger Model 1098 that came from a toy store "Waldell's Hobbies on Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn) that bought out. (Model 1098 - s/n 2726474). I think is can be a safe conclusion that my affection for cash registers came from him!
After the internet makes its way into my life, I was able to determine it is a 300 series.
I subsequently move upstate and continued displaying it and has been a focal point of my furnishings.
Recently, events in my life have seen me relocate to Texas and of course, the register came with me. Space is a little more at a premium, so it was in storage. So for a rainy day project today, I decided to get the register out of storage and clean it up. Also, the keys got jammed again when a friend tried to operate it.
So, I took the case apart, vacuumed and blew down the innards with an air nozzle, and got the mechanism to release. Somehow that welded cam wheel slipped back to its original place in moving.
I lubricated all moving parts with a liberal application of PB Blaster and wipe down. Upon reassembly, and as I now had the advantage of the internet as a resource for parts and information, I decided to do a little research
After finding a lot of 300 series in brass, I found none painted. This made me slightly suspicious. Mine is clearly black wrinkle finish paint. Honestly, it appears quite well done, with all parts inside & out evenly coated. I couldn't help but feel it was a factory paint. I searched eBay, and the web, but alas couldn't not find a painted model.
I learned where the model number should be, but on first exam, it was not present on my machine and my tag area appeared blank. But, after a closer exam, there were in fact screws holding down a plate, so after quick work with a screwdriver, I realized the model s/n tag had been screwed on to the machine face down and painted over! This must have been done before I owned it as I would not have done such a thing..
This would now lead me to believe the machine has been painted after original purchase and now perhaps not original as I once thought.
Once I turned the tag over, I learned it was a Model 312, with s/n 1283677. (Made after 6/6/1913 if I understand the data records correctly). I also took the cash drawer out and read the guarantee label affixed to the bottom:
Register Number 2388283
Size 711
Finish Mah
Tracer (blank)
Customer (blank)
Not listed on the label but confirmed from collector websites is the ornate pattern on the case is "Dolphin" and was designed by none other the Tiffany.
So now my questions. Internet references reflect the following versions of the Model 312:
( A ) Bronze, oxidized and relieved
This cabinet was a solid bronze casting that was dipped in a black oxide chemical, which turned the cabinet black. The flat edges and the high points of the casting were polished, leaving the black in the low areas and highly shined bronze edging. It was then lacquered to maintain the finish.
( B ) Nickel plated*
This cabinet is usually a solid yellow brass (or sometimes cast iron)* casting that was nickel plated. The drawer front was generally solid nickel because the nickel plating would easily wear off when closing the drawer. Yellow brass is made from copper, zinc and tin. Bronze is copper and tin. Both copper and tin are expensive, so the zinc makes it a lot cheaper to make and was used for most plated machines. Often if they didn't have all of the parts in brass, they would use a bronze part. After many years of wear, the nickel becomes worn off in spots. If you remove all of the nickel, you often find 3 colors, red bronze, yellow brass and solid nickel. This machine will have to be re-plated? Highly polished and lacquered.
( C ) Bronze, natural color.
This cabinet was solid bronze castings. Highly polished and lacquered.
( D ) Oxidized copper and relieved*
This machine is usually made with yellow brass (or cast iron)* casting which were copper plated. The copper was thicker than nickel and would not wear off, so the drawer front was also copper plated brass. It was dipped in the black oxide chemical and the edges and high points of the pattern were highly polished, leaving bright copper edging with the lower areas black. Also lacquered.
( E ) Yellow brass, Natural color
This machine was solid brass castings that were highly polished and lacquered.
( En ) Black enamel, ornamented. (Class 100 only)
This machine is solid yellow castings that were dipped in black oxide and the edges and high points highly polished leaving the black in the low areas. Also lacquered.
Wood Cabinets
Some of the early machines were offered in a solid wood cabinet. These cabinets were made from Oak, Quarter Sawn Oak, Birch, Mahogany, Black Walnut and many other expense woods. They had burled veneer and fancy inlayed patterns of different wood veneers. These were often accented with brass and nickel inlays, as well as nickel plated drawer pull and other hardware.
Many inlay patterns were named such as: The Shell Pattern,Lilly of the Valley, Tulip Pattern, and the Persimmon pattern.
Clearly, my machine is NOT any of the above. It is NOT an early machine (those being 1800's), but my drawer is marked for Mah (Mahogany) and it's obvious there is no wooden cabinet. Was the current drawer a replacement?
What does an original Model 312 in Mah finish look like?Does that mean a brown paint? This machine is clearly black wrinkle finish and the only wood is the base, which is painted black as well.
I looked at some of the locations where the paint was chipped and the underlying metal does appear to be polished nickel. Therefore, would the paint be original from National or is this a customer applied paint job?
Hours of research on the web does not turn up painted examples of a 312. Also the case is mostly not magnetic, however in some areas this is a weak pull, but I'm concluding the magnet is attracted to the cast iron internal frames.
If the black wrinkle finish is not original, whether to leave the machine as is or strip the finish is to be decided. I wish to make it clear, I know this decision is up to my preference, but I also wish to make it clear the machine is more of sentimental value than monetary value, so a restoration to original condition for eventual resale or to increase in value is not my intent as I have no plans to sell it..
The denomination keys "buttons": I looked at the vintage catalog, and it shows white numerals on black for all keys except NO SALE which is black on orange. My register however has:
- black numerals on white for the 10 cent denominations (10, 20, 30, 40, 50);
- white numerals on red for the cent denominations (1 through 9 EXCEPT the 5 which is black on white).
- black on orange for NO SALE.
I know that the 5 button on adding machines, calculators and other registers almost always contrasted for easy recognition so this I figure is original, and as dad's model 1098 is the same way.
I would like to replace the NO SALE flag with an original. An unrestored one to match the other flags would be preferred. As the NO SALE flag appears to be in the same position on all the 300 models (far right for the clerk - far left for the customer), I would conclude all the 300 series NO SALE flags are compatible.
The drawer front is clearly smooth painted metal. All the images I've encountered show the cast National drawer front. Is mine missing or was there / this a "budget" model 312 omitted some of the ornamentation or perhaps there was a wood front in Mahogany?
On the right side of the keyboard, the numerals 5145 are stamped into the front edge. This number is also stamped on the inside of the back metal case. It does not match the warranty registration or the serial number.
So many questions abound. If you have answers, please feel free to contact me at bedt14@aol.com
Since the early 1970’s the origins of Hip-Hop have elevated from the barrios of the South Bronx to Madison Avenue and all over the world. The mystique of the music and culture has been that you can make and create art with the ingenuity of a pin and pad of paper. Emcees would become wordsmiths and create a rhyming experience that would eventually take ordinary people off the streets of a place of gangs, drugs, and violence. A unique street artistry would take hold in a form of dance, art, clothing, and day-to-day life that would evolve into modern day Hip-Hip. Pioneers of the music like The Sugar Hill Gang, Grandmaster Flash and the Furious Five, Afrika Bambaataa and the Soulsonic Force, Fab Five Freddy, and the Rock Steady Crew took their voices and art and generated what would turn out to become a ten billion dollar a year industry. The music then and today still reflects all the issues that continue to plague the black and Latino communities but it also still represents fun and unorthodox means of creating music. From the early block parties where the emcees would verbally battle other emcees from all the five boroughs in New York City, to the DJ’s recking havoc over break beats so emcees could master what would become rap, to the dancing and free spirit of Hip-Hop, the music gave and still gives many disenfranchised youth a channel to become creative.
One of few Hip-Hop festivals that takes place here in the states is the Brooklyn Hip Hop Festival Family Day presented by Brooklyn Bodega. Founded by Wes Jackson in 2006, he and his diverse staff have been on the front lines producing and keeping the legacy of Hip-Hop to fans all over the world via their website www.brooklynbodega.com. What I’ve really enjoyed about Brooklyn Bodga’s scope on the music is that they bring a more intellectual and historical view to the music unlike the negative images that continue to perpetuate the music. BB’s events during the entire year bring out all the true Hip-Hop heads that have been molded, shaped, and influenced by the music.
This year’s 7th Brooklyn Hip Hop Festival featured the legendary Q-Tip of rap group A Tribe Called Quest. Other acts included: Random Axe(Sean Price, Black Milk, and Guilty Simpson), Shad, Homeboy Sandman, M.O.P, Diamond District, Ali Shaheed Muhammed, Lords of the Underground, Torae, Uncle Ralph McDaniels, and Kendrick Lemar. Brooklyn Bodega also produced events during the week like the Show and Prove Bowl with Hip-Hop legends Camp Lo, The Artifacts, and J-Live. Another major highlight of the festival’s events was the Salute the DJ honoring the Marley Marl who produced legendary records for L.L. Cool J, Big Daddy Kane, Lords of the Underground, Biz Markie, and Kool G. Rap.
Emcee Q-Tip took to the stage and brought out many of his best friends whom he’s collaborated throughout his 20 years in Hip-Hip. He performed many of his classic hits as part of his days in A Tribe Called Quest. But he paid tribute to the music by bringing out female Emcee Monie Love of the original Native Tongs Crew. Monie performed her hit “Monie in the Middle” along with her solo of the classic “Buddy.” Tip later let Emcees Black Thought of The Roots, Lil Shawn, and Busta Rhymes bless the mic. But the surprise of the night was when multi-platinum and Grammy-Award Winning Kayne West took to the stage to guest perform with the legendary Emcee. The crowd lost it and was in awe as Kayne leaped off the stage and hit the crowd of his many Hip-Hop fans.
The Brooklyn Hip Hop Festival is something that’s a gem in the Hip-Hop Community and in the states. Jazz, country, soul, the blues, and Hip-Hop are the only original art forms that was created in this country. There are several festivals that cater and represent these art forms but BHH is the only one that takes place were the music was originated, New York City. Brooklyn Bodgea took a risk to form programming like the festival and other events throughout the year to keep real Hip-Hop visible and tangible at a time when the music has become real commercial. Again, this is the only festival where you can spend $15 a ticket and being your family and have a nice and relaxed time, while not hitting your wallet. The Brooklyn Hip Hop Festival includes two stages were music fans can watch and interact with the up-and-coming and iconic Hip-Hop emcees past and present. Also, there’s a section for kids between the ages of 3 and 10 years old that includes many play stations including a jumping trampoline and other kiddie rides thats part of the admission price.
At a time when the media and record industry has tainted Hip-Hop, Brooklyn Bodega has been on the front lines keeping the legacy of the music and culture out there. Please continue to support Brooklyn Bodega and their many events. For more information or to volunteer your time and efforts please visit them on line at www.brooklynbodgea.com.
Watch this video on Vimeo. Video created by Brian Pace.
Medical supplies used for sports injuries or therapy at the Anaheim Ducks training facility, Great Park ice Rink.
PXL_20230316_024509427_rot-0.4
I wanted to share a bit of hope to the soon to come to Springtime, using blue and white as the base colours. Then pink and gold for accents.
I hope you enjoy this styling :)
Detailed items.
*Some items are not listed, that is because I build them or they are full perm.
tarte.
tarte. allison room divider (white) w lights
dust bunny
dust bunny . sweet dreams . fur stool
dust bunny & con . lauren bathroom . radiator . gold
dust bunny . lauren bathroom . hanging robe . b
dust bunny . lauren bathroom . cotton ball container
dust bunny . lauren bathroom . qtip container
dust bunny & con . lauren bathroom . wall light . gold
dust bunny . sweet dreams . wingback bed
dust bunny . sweet dreams . lamp
dust bunny . sweet dreams . alarm clock . gold
Ariskea
Ariskea[January] Office Shelf
Dutchie
make up clutter
nail polish
Lotion and creams
Fancy Decor
Magazine Stack 1
Prescott Tray
Luann Art
Jordan Wall Art
Grantaire Mirrors
Pieter Cabinet (white)
Caron Buffet & Mirror
-tres blah-
-tres blah- Jolie - Makeup Organizer
{vespertine}
exotic plants / button fern
peace lily plant
aloe vera plant
exotic plants / pilea
hanging pothos.
summer peony bouquet
chevron copper trash bin 8
rainbow book clutter
potted monstera variegata
alpaca natural cushion
jar with blues
frag.ment's /
/ frag.ment's / Rose Aroma with Frame
Apple Fall
Scented Candle
hive
bleached jute rug . blue
.peaches.
Eryx Laptop Clutter
brocante.
corduroy floor pillow (Box not included)
Nutmeg.
Tea Cup
French Cafe Teapot
Summer's End Peonies
JIAN
Kitty Shelving :: Cushioned Snoozin
He-Man and Skeletor agree to settle their differences once and for all, using an ancient human form of combat from Earth in the 1990's!
I have owned this cash register for several decades now, of which I rescued from a fire damaged pharmacy on New York's Lower East Side around 1995. (At that time, one of the owners of the pharmacy chain I was working for (Thriftway Pharmacy) had a side business of buying out sundries & merchandise from bankrupt and smoke/water damaged retail stores at substantially cut prices, and reselling them at nominal prices thereby substantially increasing the profit margin.
In the process of clearing out one such place, I happened upon this cash register lying on its side under the pharmacy shelves in about 2 inches of murky water.
To be quite honest, it almost was not rescued, as my transportation that day was my bosses brand new Mercedes 500SEL, and as you can imagine he was extremely reluctant in allowing some dripping, sooty monstrosity in his new car. He wouldn't even allow it in the trunk. I managed to convince him to allow me to take it but only after I wrapped it in three contractor bags and agreed to hold it in my lap for the hour long ride home.
Upon my getting it home, I immediately proceeded to clean it up. I took note that one of the glass panels were broken (the customer side) and the top glass completely gone. The NO SALE flag was also missing. I had my local glazier cut me replacement glass and I installed it, but not before I made a crude NO SALE flag out of cardboard and a Qtip..
The dealer markings reflect that this machine was sold by:
Bronx Cash Register
341 East 149 Street,
Bronx, NY
established 1912,
MOtt Haven 9-5888
As it turned out Bronx Cash Register was still in business and I contacted them but they could not offer information, sales records or parts.
It operates fairly smoothly, then out of the blue, the keys will jam. I learned the mechanism pretty well from my cleaning, so I pretty much know how to unjam it without too much effort. Upon my examination I discovered that someone very crudely tried to repair the dollar position advance wheel and cam on the days tally wheel.
The tally advance up to 99 cents but does not advance the to the next dollar. I loosened up the set screw and pushed it off to the side, disabling the dollar advance.
After getting it all cleaned and lubricated I put some circa 1928 currency and older silver coinage in it. And it sat on my desk in my room for years. My father enjoyed its presence as he also had an National cash register (see other album), but his is a much younger Model 1098 that came from a toy store "Waldell's Hobbies on Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn) that bought out. (Model 1098 - s/n 2726474). I think is can be a safe conclusion that my affection for cash registers came from him!
After the internet makes its way into my life, I was able to determine it is a 300 series.
I subsequently move upstate and continued displaying it and has been a focal point of my furnishings.
Recently, events in my life have seen me relocate to Texas and of course, the register came with me. Space is a little more at a premium, so it was in storage. So for a rainy day project today, I decided to get the register out of storage and clean it up. Also, the keys got jammed again when a friend tried to operate it.
So, I took the case apart, vacuumed and blew down the innards with an air nozzle, and got the mechanism to release. Somehow that welded cam wheel slipped back to its original place in moving.
I lubricated all moving parts with a liberal application of PB Blaster and wipe down. Upon reassembly, and as I now had the advantage of the internet as a resource for parts and information, I decided to do a little research
After finding a lot of 300 series in brass, I found none painted. This made me slightly suspicious. Mine is clearly black wrinkle finish paint. Honestly, it appears quite well done, with all parts inside & out evenly coated. I couldn't help but feel it was a factory paint. I searched eBay, and the web, but alas couldn't not find a painted model.
I learned where the model number should be, but on first exam, it was not present on my machine and my tag area appeared blank. But, after a closer exam, there were in fact screws holding down a plate, so after quick work with a screwdriver, I realized the model s/n tag had been screwed on to the machine face down and painted over! This must have been done before I owned it as I would not have done such a thing..
This would now lead me to believe the machine has been painted after original purchase and now perhaps not original as I once thought.
Once I turned the tag over, I learned it was a Model 312, with s/n 1283677. (Made after 6/6/1913 if I understand the data records correctly). I also took the cash drawer out and read the guarantee label affixed to the bottom:
Register Number 2388283
Size 711
Finish Mah
Tracer (blank)
Customer (blank)
Not listed on the label but confirmed from collector websites is the ornate pattern on the case is "Dolphin" and was designed by none other the Tiffany.
So now my questions. Internet references reflect the following versions of the Model 312:
( A ) Bronze, oxidized and relieved
This cabinet was a solid bronze casting that was dipped in a black oxide chemical, which turned the cabinet black. The flat edges and the high points of the casting were polished, leaving the black in the low areas and highly shined bronze edging. It was then lacquered to maintain the finish.
( B ) Nickel plated*
This cabinet is usually a solid yellow brass (or sometimes cast iron)* casting that was nickel plated. The drawer front was generally solid nickel because the nickel plating would easily wear off when closing the drawer. Yellow brass is made from copper, zinc and tin. Bronze is copper and tin. Both copper and tin are expensive, so the zinc makes it a lot cheaper to make and was used for most plated machines. Often if they didn't have all of the parts in brass, they would use a bronze part. After many years of wear, the nickel becomes worn off in spots. If you remove all of the nickel, you often find 3 colors, red bronze, yellow brass and solid nickel. This machine will have to be re-plated? Highly polished and lacquered.
( C ) Bronze, natural color.
This cabinet was solid bronze castings. Highly polished and lacquered.
( D ) Oxidized copper and relieved*
This machine is usually made with yellow brass (or cast iron)* casting which were copper plated. The copper was thicker than nickel and would not wear off, so the drawer front was also copper plated brass. It was dipped in the black oxide chemical and the edges and high points of the pattern were highly polished, leaving bright copper edging with the lower areas black. Also lacquered.
( E ) Yellow brass, Natural color
This machine was solid brass castings that were highly polished and lacquered.
( En ) Black enamel, ornamented. (Class 100 only)
This machine is solid yellow castings that were dipped in black oxide and the edges and high points highly polished leaving the black in the low areas. Also lacquered.
Wood Cabinets
Some of the early machines were offered in a solid wood cabinet. These cabinets were made from Oak, Quarter Sawn Oak, Birch, Mahogany, Black Walnut and many other expense woods. They had burled veneer and fancy inlayed patterns of different wood veneers. These were often accented with brass and nickel inlays, as well as nickel plated drawer pull and other hardware.
Many inlay patterns were named such as: The Shell Pattern,Lilly of the Valley, Tulip Pattern, and the Persimmon pattern.
Clearly, my machine is NOT any of the above. It is NOT an early machine (those being 1800's), but my drawer is marked for Mah (Mahogany) and it's obvious there is no wooden cabinet. Was the current drawer a replacement?
What does an original Model 312 in Mah finish look like?Does that mean a brown paint? This machine is clearly black wrinkle finish and the only wood is the base, which is painted black as well.
I looked at some of the locations where the paint was chipped and the underlying metal does appear to be polished nickel. Therefore, would the paint be original from National or is this a customer applied paint job?
Hours of research on the web does not turn up painted examples of a 312. Also the case is mostly not magnetic, however in some areas this is a weak pull, but I'm concluding the magnet is attracted to the cast iron internal frames.
If the black wrinkle finish is not original, whether to leave the machine as is or strip the finish is to be decided. I wish to make it clear, I know this decision is up to my preference, but I also wish to make it clear the machine is more of sentimental value than monetary value, so a restoration to original condition for eventual resale or to increase in value is not my intent as I have no plans to sell it..
The denomination keys "buttons": I looked at the vintage catalog, and it shows white numerals on black for all keys except NO SALE which is black on orange. My register however has:
- black numerals on white for the 10 cent denominations (10, 20, 30, 40, 50);
- white numerals on red for the cent denominations (1 through 9 EXCEPT the 5 which is black on white).
- black on orange for NO SALE.
I know that the 5 button on adding machines, calculators and other registers almost always contrasted for easy recognition so this I figure is original, and as dad's model 1098 is the same way.
I would like to replace the NO SALE flag with an original. An unrestored one to match the other flags would be preferred. As the NO SALE flag appears to be in the same position on all the 300 models (far right for the clerk - far left for the customer), I would conclude all the 300 series NO SALE flags are compatible.
The drawer front is clearly smooth painted metal. All the images I've encountered show the cast National drawer front. Is mine missing or was there / this a "budget" model 312 omitted some of the ornamentation or perhaps there was a wood front in Mahogany?
On the right side of the keyboard, the numerals 5145 are stamped into the front edge. This number is also stamped on the inside of the back metal case. It does not match the warranty registration or the serial number.
So many questions abound. If you have answers, please feel free to contact me at bedt14@aol.com
I have owned this cash register for several decades now, of which I rescued from a fire damaged pharmacy on New York's Lower East Side around 1995. (At that time, one of the owners of the pharmacy chain I was working for (Thriftway Pharmacy) had a side business of buying out sundries & merchandise from bankrupt and smoke/water damaged retail stores at substantially cut prices, and reselling them at nominal prices thereby substantially increasing the profit margin.
In the process of clearing out one such place, I happened upon this cash register lying on its side under the pharmacy shelves in about 2 inches of murky water.
To be quite honest, it almost was not rescued, as my transportation that day was my bosses brand new Mercedes 500SEL, and as you can imagine he was extremely reluctant in allowing some dripping, sooty monstrosity in his new car. He wouldn't even allow it in the trunk. I managed to convince him to allow me to take it but only after I wrapped it in three contractor bags and agreed to hold it in my lap for the hour long ride home.
Upon my getting it home, I immediately proceeded to clean it up. I took note that one of the glass panels were broken (the customer side) and the top glass completely gone. The NO SALE flag was also missing. I had my local glazier cut me replacement glass and I installed it, but not before I made a crude NO SALE flag out of cardboard and a Qtip..
The dealer markings reflect that this machine was sold by:
Bronx Cash Register
341 East 149 Street,
Bronx, NY
established 1912,
MOtt Haven 9-5888
As it turned out Bronx Cash Register was still in business and I contacted them but they could not offer information, sales records or parts.
It operates fairly smoothly, then out of the blue, the keys will jam. I learned the mechanism pretty well from my cleaning, so I pretty much know how to unjam it without too much effort. Upon my examination I discovered that someone very crudely tried to repair the dollar position advance wheel and cam on the days tally wheel.
The tally advance up to 99 cents but does not advance the to the next dollar. I loosened up the set screw and pushed it off to the side, disabling the dollar advance.
After getting it all cleaned and lubricated I put some circa 1928 currency and older silver coinage in it. And it sat on my desk in my room for years. My father enjoyed its presence as he also had an National cash register (see other album), but his is a much younger Model 1098 that came from a toy store "Waldell's Hobbies on Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn) that bought out. (Model 1098 - s/n 2726474). I think is can be a safe conclusion that my affection for cash registers came from him!
After the internet makes its way into my life, I was able to determine it is a 300 series.
I subsequently move upstate and continued displaying it and has been a focal point of my furnishings.
Recently, events in my life have seen me relocate to Texas and of course, the register came with me. Space is a little more at a premium, so it was in storage. So for a rainy day project today, I decided to get the register out of storage and clean it up. Also, the keys got jammed again when a friend tried to operate it.
So, I took the case apart, vacuumed and blew down the innards with an air nozzle, and got the mechanism to release. Somehow that welded cam wheel slipped back to its original place in moving.
I lubricated all moving parts with a liberal application of PB Blaster and wipe down. Upon reassembly, and as I now had the advantage of the internet as a resource for parts and information, I decided to do a little research
After finding a lot of 300 series in brass, I found none painted. This made me slightly suspicious. Mine is clearly black wrinkle finish paint. Honestly, it appears quite well done, with all parts inside & out evenly coated. I couldn't help but feel it was a factory paint. I searched eBay, and the web, but alas couldn't not find a painted model.
I learned where the model number should be, but on first exam, it was not present on my machine and my tag area appeared blank. But, after a closer exam, there were in fact screws holding down a plate, so after quick work with a screwdriver, I realized the model s/n tag had been screwed on to the machine face down and painted over! This must have been done before I owned it as I would not have done such a thing..
This would now lead me to believe the machine has been painted after original purchase and now perhaps not original as I once thought.
Once I turned the tag over, I learned it was a Model 312, with s/n 1283677. (Made after 6/6/1913 if I understand the data records correctly). I also took the cash drawer out and read the guarantee label affixed to the bottom:
Register Number 2388283
Size 711
Finish Mah
Tracer (blank)
Customer (blank)
Not listed on the label but confirmed from collector websites is the ornate pattern on the case is "Dolphin" and was designed by none other the Tiffany.
So now my questions. Internet references reflect the following versions of the Model 312:
( A ) Bronze, oxidized and relieved
This cabinet was a solid bronze casting that was dipped in a black oxide chemical, which turned the cabinet black. The flat edges and the high points of the casting were polished, leaving the black in the low areas and highly shined bronze edging. It was then lacquered to maintain the finish.
( B ) Nickel plated*
This cabinet is usually a solid yellow brass (or sometimes cast iron)* casting that was nickel plated. The drawer front was generally solid nickel because the nickel plating would easily wear off when closing the drawer. Yellow brass is made from copper, zinc and tin. Bronze is copper and tin. Both copper and tin are expensive, so the zinc makes it a lot cheaper to make and was used for most plated machines. Often if they didn't have all of the parts in brass, they would use a bronze part. After many years of wear, the nickel becomes worn off in spots. If you remove all of the nickel, you often find 3 colors, red bronze, yellow brass and solid nickel. This machine will have to be re-plated? Highly polished and lacquered.
( C ) Bronze, natural color.
This cabinet was solid bronze castings. Highly polished and lacquered.
( D ) Oxidized copper and relieved*
This machine is usually made with yellow brass (or cast iron)* casting which were copper plated. The copper was thicker than nickel and would not wear off, so the drawer front was also copper plated brass. It was dipped in the black oxide chemical and the edges and high points of the pattern were highly polished, leaving bright copper edging with the lower areas black. Also lacquered.
( E ) Yellow brass, Natural color
This machine was solid brass castings that were highly polished and lacquered.
( En ) Black enamel, ornamented. (Class 100 only)
This machine is solid yellow castings that were dipped in black oxide and the edges and high points highly polished leaving the black in the low areas. Also lacquered.
Wood Cabinets
Some of the early machines were offered in a solid wood cabinet. These cabinets were made from Oak, Quarter Sawn Oak, Birch, Mahogany, Black Walnut and many other expense woods. They had burled veneer and fancy inlayed patterns of different wood veneers. These were often accented with brass and nickel inlays, as well as nickel plated drawer pull and other hardware.
Many inlay patterns were named such as: The Shell Pattern,Lilly of the Valley, Tulip Pattern, and the Persimmon pattern.
Clearly, my machine is NOT any of the above. It is NOT an early machine (those being 1800's), but my drawer is marked for Mah (Mahogany) and it's obvious there is no wooden cabinet. Was the current drawer a replacement?
What does an original Model 312 in Mah finish look like?Does that mean a brown paint? This machine is clearly black wrinkle finish and the only wood is the base, which is painted black as well.
I looked at some of the locations where the paint was chipped and the underlying metal does appear to be polished nickel. Therefore, would the paint be original from National or is this a customer applied paint job?
Hours of research on the web does not turn up painted examples of a 312. Also the case is mostly not magnetic, however in some areas this is a weak pull, but I'm concluding the magnet is attracted to the cast iron internal frames.
If the black wrinkle finish is not original, whether to leave the machine as is or strip the finish is to be decided. I wish to make it clear, I know this decision is up to my preference, but I also wish to make it clear the machine is more of sentimental value than monetary value, so a restoration to original condition for eventual resale or to increase in value is not my intent as I have no plans to sell it..
The denomination keys "buttons": I looked at the vintage catalog, and it shows white numerals on black for all keys except NO SALE which is black on orange. My register however has:
- black numerals on white for the 10 cent denominations (10, 20, 30, 40, 50);
- white numerals on red for the cent denominations (1 through 9 EXCEPT the 5 which is black on white).
- black on orange for NO SALE.
I know that the 5 button on adding machines, calculators and other registers almost always contrasted for easy recognition so this I figure is original, and as dad's model 1098 is the same way.
I would like to replace the NO SALE flag with an original. An unrestored one to match the other flags would be preferred. As the NO SALE flag appears to be in the same position on all the 300 models (far right for the clerk - far left for the customer), I would conclude all the 300 series NO SALE flags are compatible.
The drawer front is clearly smooth painted metal. All the images I've encountered show the cast National drawer front. Is mine missing or was there / this a "budget" model 312 omitted some of the ornamentation or perhaps there was a wood front in Mahogany?
On the right side of the keyboard, the numerals 5145 are stamped into the front edge. This number is also stamped on the inside of the back metal case. It does not match the warranty registration or the serial number.
So many questions abound. If you have answers, please feel free to contact me at bedt14@aol.com
Billboard Artist Q-Tip performs at #lyft product launch in NYC #atribecalledquest Event was overcapacity at this particular "it" party in trendy hip Brooklyn. www.billboard.com/artist/277220/q-tip
Justin T. Shockley
@jtsfashion
Create Beauty. Do Justice. Love Mercy.
646.801.8641
New York, NY
Please Visit
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*Instagram: neohxc
A Tribe Called Quest's last show together, opening for Kanye West at Madison Square Garden on November 24, 2014.
I have owned this cash register for several decades now, of which I rescued from a fire damaged pharmacy on New York's Lower East Side around 1995. (At that time, one of the owners of the pharmacy chain I was working for (Thriftway Pharmacy) had a side business of buying out sundries & merchandise from bankrupt and smoke/water damaged retail stores at substantially cut prices, and reselling them at nominal prices thereby substantially increasing the profit margin.
In the process of clearing out one such place, I happened upon this cash register lying on its side under the pharmacy shelves in about 2 inches of murky water.
To be quite honest, it almost was not rescued, as my transportation that day was my bosses brand new Mercedes 500SEL, and as you can imagine he was extremely reluctant in allowing some dripping, sooty monstrosity in his new car. He wouldn't even allow it in the trunk. I managed to convince him to allow me to take it but only after I wrapped it in three contractor bags and agreed to hold it in my lap for the hour long ride home.
Upon my getting it home, I immediately proceeded to clean it up. I took note that one of the glass panels were broken (the customer side) and the top glass completely gone. The NO SALE flag was also missing. I had my local glazier cut me replacement glass and I installed it, but not before I made a crude NO SALE flag out of cardboard and a Qtip..
The dealer markings reflect that this machine was sold by:
Bronx Cash Register
341 East 149 Street,
Bronx, NY
established 1912,
MOtt Haven 9-5888
As it turned out Bronx Cash Register was still in business and I contacted them but they could not offer information, sales records or parts.
It operates fairly smoothly, then out of the blue, the keys will jam. I learned the mechanism pretty well from my cleaning, so I pretty much know how to unjam it without too much effort. Upon my examination I discovered that someone very crudely tried to repair the dollar position advance wheel and cam on the days tally wheel.
The tally advance up to 99 cents but does not advance the to the next dollar. I loosened up the set screw and pushed it off to the side, disabling the dollar advance.
After getting it all cleaned and lubricated I put some circa 1928 currency and older silver coinage in it. And it sat on my desk in my room for years. My father enjoyed its presence as he also had an National cash register (see other album), but his is a much younger Model 1098 that came from a toy store "Waldell's Hobbies on Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn) that bought out. (Model 1098 - s/n 2726474). I think is can be a safe conclusion that my affection for cash registers came from him!
After the internet makes its way into my life, I was able to determine it is a 300 series.
I subsequently move upstate and continued displaying it and has been a focal point of my furnishings.
Recently, events in my life have seen me relocate to Texas and of course, the register came with me. Space is a little more at a premium, so it was in storage. So for a rainy day project today, I decided to get the register out of storage and clean it up. Also, the keys got jammed again when a friend tried to operate it.
So, I took the case apart, vacuumed and blew down the innards with an air nozzle, and got the mechanism to release. Somehow that welded cam wheel slipped back to its original place in moving.
I lubricated all moving parts with a liberal application of PB Blaster and wipe down. Upon reassembly, and as I now had the advantage of the internet as a resource for parts and information, I decided to do a little research
After finding a lot of 300 series in brass, I found none painted. This made me slightly suspicious. Mine is clearly black wrinkle finish paint. Honestly, it appears quite well done, with all parts inside & out evenly coated. I couldn't help but feel it was a factory paint. I searched eBay, and the web, but alas couldn't not find a painted model.
I learned where the model number should be, but on first exam, it was not present on my machine and my tag area appeared blank. But, after a closer exam, there were in fact screws holding down a plate, so after quick work with a screwdriver, I realized the model s/n tag had been screwed on to the machine face down and painted over! This must have been done before I owned it as I would not have done such a thing..
This would now lead me to believe the machine has been painted after original purchase and now perhaps not original as I once thought.
Once I turned the tag over, I learned it was a Model 312, with s/n 1283677. (Made after 6/6/1913 if I understand the data records correctly). I also took the cash drawer out and read the guarantee label affixed to the bottom:
Register Number 2388283
Size 711
Finish Mah
Tracer (blank)
Customer (blank)
Not listed on the label but confirmed from collector websites is the ornate pattern on the case is "Dolphin" and was designed by none other the Tiffany.
So now my questions. Internet references reflect the following versions of the Model 312:
( A ) Bronze, oxidized and relieved
This cabinet was a solid bronze casting that was dipped in a black oxide chemical, which turned the cabinet black. The flat edges and the high points of the casting were polished, leaving the black in the low areas and highly shined bronze edging. It was then lacquered to maintain the finish.
( B ) Nickel plated*
This cabinet is usually a solid yellow brass (or sometimes cast iron)* casting that was nickel plated. The drawer front was generally solid nickel because the nickel plating would easily wear off when closing the drawer. Yellow brass is made from copper, zinc and tin. Bronze is copper and tin. Both copper and tin are expensive, so the zinc makes it a lot cheaper to make and was used for most plated machines. Often if they didn't have all of the parts in brass, they would use a bronze part. After many years of wear, the nickel becomes worn off in spots. If you remove all of the nickel, you often find 3 colors, red bronze, yellow brass and solid nickel. This machine will have to be re-plated? Highly polished and lacquered.
( C ) Bronze, natural color.
This cabinet was solid bronze castings. Highly polished and lacquered.
( D ) Oxidized copper and relieved*
This machine is usually made with yellow brass (or cast iron)* casting which were copper plated. The copper was thicker than nickel and would not wear off, so the drawer front was also copper plated brass. It was dipped in the black oxide chemical and the edges and high points of the pattern were highly polished, leaving bright copper edging with the lower areas black. Also lacquered.
( E ) Yellow brass, Natural color
This machine was solid brass castings that were highly polished and lacquered.
( En ) Black enamel, ornamented. (Class 100 only)
This machine is solid yellow castings that were dipped in black oxide and the edges and high points highly polished leaving the black in the low areas. Also lacquered.
Wood Cabinets
Some of the early machines were offered in a solid wood cabinet. These cabinets were made from Oak, Quarter Sawn Oak, Birch, Mahogany, Black Walnut and many other expense woods. They had burled veneer and fancy inlayed patterns of different wood veneers. These were often accented with brass and nickel inlays, as well as nickel plated drawer pull and other hardware.
Many inlay patterns were named such as: The Shell Pattern,Lilly of the Valley, Tulip Pattern, and the Persimmon pattern.
Clearly, my machine is NOT any of the above. It is NOT an early machine (those being 1800's), but my drawer is marked for Mah (Mahogany) and it's obvious there is no wooden cabinet. Was the current drawer a replacement?
What does an original Model 312 in Mah finish look like?Does that mean a brown paint? This machine is clearly black wrinkle finish and the only wood is the base, which is painted black as well.
I looked at some of the locations where the paint was chipped and the underlying metal does appear to be polished nickel. Therefore, would the paint be original from National or is this a customer applied paint job?
Hours of research on the web does not turn up painted examples of a 312. Also the case is mostly not magnetic, however in some areas this is a weak pull, but I'm concluding the magnet is attracted to the cast iron internal frames.
If the black wrinkle finish is not original, whether to leave the machine as is or strip the finish is to be decided. I wish to make it clear, I know this decision is up to my preference, but I also wish to make it clear the machine is more of sentimental value than monetary value, so a restoration to original condition for eventual resale or to increase in value is not my intent as I have no plans to sell it..
The denomination keys "buttons": I looked at the vintage catalog, and it shows white numerals on black for all keys except NO SALE which is black on orange. My register however has:
- black numerals on white for the 10 cent denominations (10, 20, 30, 40, 50);
- white numerals on red for the cent denominations (1 through 9 EXCEPT the 5 which is black on white).
- black on orange for NO SALE.
I know that the 5 button on adding machines, calculators and other registers almost always contrasted for easy recognition so this I figure is original, and as dad's model 1098 is the same way.
I would like to replace the NO SALE flag with an original. An unrestored one to match the other flags would be preferred. As the NO SALE flag appears to be in the same position on all the 300 models (far right for the clerk - far left for the customer), I would conclude all the 300 series NO SALE flags are compatible.
The drawer front is clearly smooth painted metal. All the images I've encountered show the cast National drawer front. Is mine missing or was there / this a "budget" model 312 omitted some of the ornamentation or perhaps there was a wood front in Mahogany?
On the right side of the keyboard, the numerals 5145 are stamped into the front edge. This number is also stamped on the inside of the back metal case. It does not match the warranty registration or the serial number.
So many questions abound. If you have answers, please feel free to contact me at bedt14@aol.com
I have owned this cash register for several decades now, of which I rescued from a fire damaged pharmacy on New York's Lower East Side around 1995. (At that time, one of the owners of the pharmacy chain I was working for (Thriftway Pharmacy) had a side business of buying out sundries & merchandise from bankrupt and smoke/water damaged retail stores at substantially cut prices, and reselling them at nominal prices thereby substantially increasing the profit margin.
In the process of clearing out one such place, I happened upon this cash register lying on its side under the pharmacy shelves in about 2 inches of murky water.
To be quite honest, it almost was not rescued, as my transportation that day was my bosses brand new Mercedes 500SEL, and as you can imagine he was extremely reluctant in allowing some dripping, sooty monstrosity in his new car. He wouldn't even allow it in the trunk. I managed to convince him to allow me to take it but only after I wrapped it in three contractor bags and agreed to hold it in my lap for the hour long ride home.
Upon my getting it home, I immediately proceeded to clean it up. I took note that one of the glass panels were broken (the customer side) and the top glass completely gone. The NO SALE flag was also missing. I had my local glazier cut me replacement glass and I installed it, but not before I made a crude NO SALE flag out of cardboard and a Qtip..
The dealer markings reflect that this machine was sold by:
Bronx Cash Register
341 East 149 Street,
Bronx, NY
established 1912,
MOtt Haven 9-5888
As it turned out Bronx Cash Register was still in business and I contacted them but they could not offer information, sales records or parts.
It operates fairly smoothly, then out of the blue, the keys will jam. I learned the mechanism pretty well from my cleaning, so I pretty much know how to unjam it without too much effort. Upon my examination I discovered that someone very crudely tried to repair the dollar position advance wheel and cam on the days tally wheel.
The tally advance up to 99 cents but does not advance the to the next dollar. I loosened up the set screw and pushed it off to the side, disabling the dollar advance.
After getting it all cleaned and lubricated I put some circa 1928 currency and older silver coinage in it. And it sat on my desk in my room for years. My father enjoyed its presence as he also had an National cash register (see other album), but his is a much younger Model 1098 that came from a toy store "Waldell's Hobbies on Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn) that bought out. (Model 1098 - s/n 2726474). I think is can be a safe conclusion that my affection for cash registers came from him!
After the internet makes its way into my life, I was able to determine it is a 300 series.
I subsequently move upstate and continued displaying it and has been a focal point of my furnishings.
Recently, events in my life have seen me relocate to Texas and of course, the register came with me. Space is a little more at a premium, so it was in storage. So for a rainy day project today, I decided to get the register out of storage and clean it up. Also, the keys got jammed again when a friend tried to operate it.
So, I took the case apart, vacuumed and blew down the innards with an air nozzle, and got the mechanism to release. Somehow that welded cam wheel slipped back to its original place in moving.
I lubricated all moving parts with a liberal application of PB Blaster and wipe down. Upon reassembly, and as I now had the advantage of the internet as a resource for parts and information, I decided to do a little research
After finding a lot of 300 series in brass, I found none painted. This made me slightly suspicious. Mine is clearly black wrinkle finish paint. Honestly, it appears quite well done, with all parts inside & out evenly coated. I couldn't help but feel it was a factory paint. I searched eBay, and the web, but alas couldn't not find a painted model.
I learned where the model number should be, but on first exam, it was not present on my machine and my tag area appeared blank. But, after a closer exam, there were in fact screws holding down a plate, so after quick work with a screwdriver, I realized the model s/n tag had been screwed on to the machine face down and painted over! This must have been done before I owned it as I would not have done such a thing..
This would now lead me to believe the machine has been painted after original purchase and now perhaps not original as I once thought.
Once I turned the tag over, I learned it was a Model 312, with s/n 1283677. (Made after 6/6/1913 if I understand the data records correctly). I also took the cash drawer out and read the guarantee label affixed to the bottom:
Register Number 2388283
Size 711
Finish Mah
Tracer (blank)
Customer (blank)
Not listed on the label but confirmed from collector websites is the ornate pattern on the case is "Dolphin" and was designed by none other the Tiffany.
So now my questions. Internet references reflect the following versions of the Model 312:
( A ) Bronze, oxidized and relieved
This cabinet was a solid bronze casting that was dipped in a black oxide chemical, which turned the cabinet black. The flat edges and the high points of the casting were polished, leaving the black in the low areas and highly shined bronze edging. It was then lacquered to maintain the finish.
( B ) Nickel plated*
This cabinet is usually a solid yellow brass (or sometimes cast iron)* casting that was nickel plated. The drawer front was generally solid nickel because the nickel plating would easily wear off when closing the drawer. Yellow brass is made from copper, zinc and tin. Bronze is copper and tin. Both copper and tin are expensive, so the zinc makes it a lot cheaper to make and was used for most plated machines. Often if they didn't have all of the parts in brass, they would use a bronze part. After many years of wear, the nickel becomes worn off in spots. If you remove all of the nickel, you often find 3 colors, red bronze, yellow brass and solid nickel. This machine will have to be re-plated? Highly polished and lacquered.
( C ) Bronze, natural color.
This cabinet was solid bronze castings. Highly polished and lacquered.
( D ) Oxidized copper and relieved*
This machine is usually made with yellow brass (or cast iron)* casting which were copper plated. The copper was thicker than nickel and would not wear off, so the drawer front was also copper plated brass. It was dipped in the black oxide chemical and the edges and high points of the pattern were highly polished, leaving bright copper edging with the lower areas black. Also lacquered.
( E ) Yellow brass, Natural color
This machine was solid brass castings that were highly polished and lacquered.
( En ) Black enamel, ornamented. (Class 100 only)
This machine is solid yellow castings that were dipped in black oxide and the edges and high points highly polished leaving the black in the low areas. Also lacquered.
Wood Cabinets
Some of the early machines were offered in a solid wood cabinet. These cabinets were made from Oak, Quarter Sawn Oak, Birch, Mahogany, Black Walnut and many other expense woods. They had burled veneer and fancy inlayed patterns of different wood veneers. These were often accented with brass and nickel inlays, as well as nickel plated drawer pull and other hardware.
Many inlay patterns were named such as: The Shell Pattern,Lilly of the Valley, Tulip Pattern, and the Persimmon pattern.
Clearly, my machine is NOT any of the above. It is NOT an early machine (those being 1800's), but my drawer is marked for Mah (Mahogany) and it's obvious there is no wooden cabinet. Was the current drawer a replacement?
What does an original Model 312 in Mah finish look like?Does that mean a brown paint? This machine is clearly black wrinkle finish and the only wood is the base, which is painted black as well.
I looked at some of the locations where the paint was chipped and the underlying metal does appear to be polished nickel. Therefore, would the paint be original from National or is this a customer applied paint job?
Hours of research on the web does not turn up painted examples of a 312. Also the case is mostly not magnetic, however in some areas this is a weak pull, but I'm concluding the magnet is attracted to the cast iron internal frames.
If the black wrinkle finish is not original, whether to leave the machine as is or strip the finish is to be decided. I wish to make it clear, I know this decision is up to my preference, but I also wish to make it clear the machine is more of sentimental value than monetary value, so a restoration to original condition for eventual resale or to increase in value is not my intent as I have no plans to sell it..
The denomination keys "buttons": I looked at the vintage catalog, and it shows white numerals on black for all keys except NO SALE which is black on orange. My register however has:
- black numerals on white for the 10 cent denominations (10, 20, 30, 40, 50);
- white numerals on red for the cent denominations (1 through 9 EXCEPT the 5 which is black on white).
- black on orange for NO SALE.
I know that the 5 button on adding machines, calculators and other registers almost always contrasted for easy recognition so this I figure is original, and as dad's model 1098 is the same way.
I would like to replace the NO SALE flag with an original. An unrestored one to match the other flags would be preferred. As the NO SALE flag appears to be in the same position on all the 300 models (far right for the clerk - far left for the customer), I would conclude all the 300 series NO SALE flags are compatible.
The drawer front is clearly smooth painted metal. All the images I've encountered show the cast National drawer front. Is mine missing or was there / this a "budget" model 312 omitted some of the ornamentation or perhaps there was a wood front in Mahogany?
On the right side of the keyboard, the numerals 5145 are stamped into the front edge. This number is also stamped on the inside of the back metal case. It does not match the warranty registration or the serial number.
So many questions abound. If you have answers, please feel free to contact me at bedt14@aol.com
I have owned this cash register for several decades now, of which I rescued from a fire damaged pharmacy on New York's Lower East Side around 1995. (At that time, one of the owners of the pharmacy chain I was working for (Thriftway Pharmacy) had a side business of buying out sundries & merchandise from bankrupt and smoke/water damaged retail stores at substantially cut prices, and reselling them at nominal prices thereby substantially increasing the profit margin.
In the process of clearing out one such place, I happened upon this cash register lying on its side under the pharmacy shelves in about 2 inches of murky water.
To be quite honest, it almost was not rescued, as my transportation that day was my bosses brand new Mercedes 500SEL, and as you can imagine he was extremely reluctant in allowing some dripping, sooty monstrosity in his new car. He wouldn't even allow it in the trunk. I managed to convince him to allow me to take it but only after I wrapped it in three contractor bags and agreed to hold it in my lap for the hour long ride home.
Upon my getting it home, I immediately proceeded to clean it up. I took note that one of the glass panels were broken (the customer side) and the top glass completely gone. The NO SALE flag was also missing. I had my local glazier cut me replacement glass and I installed it, but not before I made a crude NO SALE flag out of cardboard and a Qtip..
The dealer markings reflect that this machine was sold by:
Bronx Cash Register
341 East 149 Street,
Bronx, NY
established 1912,
MOtt Haven 9-5888
As it turned out Bronx Cash Register was still in business and I contacted them but they could not offer information, sales records or parts.
It operates fairly smoothly, then out of the blue, the keys will jam. I learned the mechanism pretty well from my cleaning, so I pretty much know how to unjam it without too much effort. Upon my examination I discovered that someone very crudely tried to repair the dollar position advance wheel and cam on the days tally wheel.
The tally advance up to 99 cents but does not advance the to the next dollar. I loosened up the set screw and pushed it off to the side, disabling the dollar advance.
After getting it all cleaned and lubricated I put some circa 1928 currency and older silver coinage in it. And it sat on my desk in my room for years. My father enjoyed its presence as he also had an National cash register (see other album), but his is a much younger Model 1098 that came from a toy store "Waldell's Hobbies on Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn) that bought out. (Model 1098 - s/n 2726474). I think is can be a safe conclusion that my affection for cash registers came from him!
After the internet makes its way into my life, I was able to determine it is a 300 series.
I subsequently move upstate and continued displaying it and has been a focal point of my furnishings.
Recently, events in my life have seen me relocate to Texas and of course, the register came with me. Space is a little more at a premium, so it was in storage. So for a rainy day project today, I decided to get the register out of storage and clean it up. Also, the keys got jammed again when a friend tried to operate it.
So, I took the case apart, vacuumed and blew down the innards with an air nozzle, and got the mechanism to release. Somehow that welded cam wheel slipped back to its original place in moving.
I lubricated all moving parts with a liberal application of PB Blaster and wipe down. Upon reassembly, and as I now had the advantage of the internet as a resource for parts and information, I decided to do a little research
After finding a lot of 300 series in brass, I found none painted. This made me slightly suspicious. Mine is clearly black wrinkle finish paint. Honestly, it appears quite well done, with all parts inside & out evenly coated. I couldn't help but feel it was a factory paint. I searched eBay, and the web, but alas couldn't not find a painted model.
I learned where the model number should be, but on first exam, it was not present on my machine and my tag area appeared blank. But, after a closer exam, there were in fact screws holding down a plate, so after quick work with a screwdriver, I realized the model s/n tag had been screwed on to the machine face down and painted over! This must have been done before I owned it as I would not have done such a thing..
This would now lead me to believe the machine has been painted after original purchase and now perhaps not original as I once thought.
Once I turned the tag over, I learned it was a Model 312, with s/n 1283677. (Made after 6/6/1913 if I understand the data records correctly). I also took the cash drawer out and read the guarantee label affixed to the bottom:
Register Number 2388283
Size 711
Finish Mah
Tracer (blank)
Customer (blank)
Not listed on the label but confirmed from collector websites is the ornate pattern on the case is "Dolphin" and was designed by none other the Tiffany.
So now my questions. Internet references reflect the following versions of the Model 312:
( A ) Bronze, oxidized and relieved
This cabinet was a solid bronze casting that was dipped in a black oxide chemical, which turned the cabinet black. The flat edges and the high points of the casting were polished, leaving the black in the low areas and highly shined bronze edging. It was then lacquered to maintain the finish.
( B ) Nickel plated*
This cabinet is usually a solid yellow brass (or sometimes cast iron)* casting that was nickel plated. The drawer front was generally solid nickel because the nickel plating would easily wear off when closing the drawer. Yellow brass is made from copper, zinc and tin. Bronze is copper and tin. Both copper and tin are expensive, so the zinc makes it a lot cheaper to make and was used for most plated machines. Often if they didn't have all of the parts in brass, they would use a bronze part. After many years of wear, the nickel becomes worn off in spots. If you remove all of the nickel, you often find 3 colors, red bronze, yellow brass and solid nickel. This machine will have to be re-plated? Highly polished and lacquered.
( C ) Bronze, natural color.
This cabinet was solid bronze castings. Highly polished and lacquered.
( D ) Oxidized copper and relieved*
This machine is usually made with yellow brass (or cast iron)* casting which were copper plated. The copper was thicker than nickel and would not wear off, so the drawer front was also copper plated brass. It was dipped in the black oxide chemical and the edges and high points of the pattern were highly polished, leaving bright copper edging with the lower areas black. Also lacquered.
( E ) Yellow brass, Natural color
This machine was solid brass castings that were highly polished and lacquered.
( En ) Black enamel, ornamented. (Class 100 only)
This machine is solid yellow castings that were dipped in black oxide and the edges and high points highly polished leaving the black in the low areas. Also lacquered.
Wood Cabinets
Some of the early machines were offered in a solid wood cabinet. These cabinets were made from Oak, Quarter Sawn Oak, Birch, Mahogany, Black Walnut and many other expense woods. They had burled veneer and fancy inlayed patterns of different wood veneers. These were often accented with brass and nickel inlays, as well as nickel plated drawer pull and other hardware.
Many inlay patterns were named such as: The Shell Pattern,Lilly of the Valley, Tulip Pattern, and the Persimmon pattern.
Clearly, my machine is NOT any of the above. It is NOT an early machine (those being 1800's), but my drawer is marked for Mah (Mahogany) and it's obvious there is no wooden cabinet. Was the current drawer a replacement?
What does an original Model 312 in Mah finish look like?Does that mean a brown paint? This machine is clearly black wrinkle finish and the only wood is the base, which is painted black as well.
I looked at some of the locations where the paint was chipped and the underlying metal does appear to be polished nickel. Therefore, would the paint be original from National or is this a customer applied paint job?
Hours of research on the web does not turn up painted examples of a 312. Also the case is mostly not magnetic, however in some areas this is a weak pull, but I'm concluding the magnet is attracted to the cast iron internal frames.
If the black wrinkle finish is not original, whether to leave the machine as is or strip the finish is to be decided. I wish to make it clear, I know this decision is up to my preference, but I also wish to make it clear the machine is more of sentimental value than monetary value, so a restoration to original condition for eventual resale or to increase in value is not my intent as I have no plans to sell it..
The denomination keys "buttons": I looked at the vintage catalog, and it shows white numerals on black for all keys except NO SALE which is black on orange. My register however has:
- black numerals on white for the 10 cent denominations (10, 20, 30, 40, 50);
- white numerals on red for the cent denominations (1 through 9 EXCEPT the 5 which is black on white).
- black on orange for NO SALE.
I know that the 5 button on adding machines, calculators and other registers almost always contrasted for easy recognition so this I figure is original, and as dad's model 1098 is the same way.
I would like to replace the NO SALE flag with an original. An unrestored one to match the other flags would be preferred. As the NO SALE flag appears to be in the same position on all the 300 models (far right for the clerk - far left for the customer), I would conclude all the 300 series NO SALE flags are compatible.
The drawer front is clearly smooth painted metal. All the images I've encountered show the cast National drawer front. Is mine missing or was there / this a "budget" model 312 omitted some of the ornamentation or perhaps there was a wood front in Mahogany?
On the right side of the keyboard, the numerals 5145 are stamped into the front edge. This number is also stamped on the inside of the back metal case. It does not match the warranty registration or the serial number.
So many questions abound. If you have answers, please feel free to contact me at bedt14@aol.com
I have owned this cash register for several decades now, of which I rescued from a fire damaged pharmacy on New York's Lower East Side around 1995. (At that time, one of the owners of the pharmacy chain I was working for (Thriftway Pharmacy) had a side business of buying out sundries & merchandise from bankrupt and smoke/water damaged retail stores at substantially cut prices, and reselling them at nominal prices thereby substantially increasing the profit margin.
In the process of clearing out one such place, I happened upon this cash register lying on its side under the pharmacy shelves in about 2 inches of murky water.
To be quite honest, it almost was not rescued, as my transportation that day was my bosses brand new Mercedes 500SEL, and as you can imagine he was extremely reluctant in allowing some dripping, sooty monstrosity in his new car. He wouldn't even allow it in the trunk. I managed to convince him to allow me to take it but only after I wrapped it in three contractor bags and agreed to hold it in my lap for the hour long ride home.
Upon my getting it home, I immediately proceeded to clean it up. I took note that one of the glass panels were broken (the customer side) and the top glass completely gone. The NO SALE flag was also missing. I had my local glazier cut me replacement glass and I installed it, but not before I made a crude NO SALE flag out of cardboard and a Qtip..
The dealer markings reflect that this machine was sold by:
Bronx Cash Register
341 East 149 Street,
Bronx, NY
established 1912,
MOtt Haven 9-5888
As it turned out Bronx Cash Register was still in business and I contacted them but they could not offer information, sales records or parts.
It operates fairly smoothly, then out of the blue, the keys will jam. I learned the mechanism pretty well from my cleaning, so I pretty much know how to unjam it without too much effort. Upon my examination I discovered that someone very crudely tried to repair the dollar position advance wheel and cam on the days tally wheel.
The tally advance up to 99 cents but does not advance the to the next dollar. I loosened up the set screw and pushed it off to the side, disabling the dollar advance.
After getting it all cleaned and lubricated I put some circa 1928 currency and older silver coinage in it. And it sat on my desk in my room for years. My father enjoyed its presence as he also had an National cash register (see other album), but his is a much younger Model 1098 that came from a toy store "Waldell's Hobbies on Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn) that bought out. (Model 1098 - s/n 2726474). I think is can be a safe conclusion that my affection for cash registers came from him!
After the internet makes its way into my life, I was able to determine it is a 300 series.
I subsequently move upstate and continued displaying it and has been a focal point of my furnishings.
Recently, events in my life have seen me relocate to Texas and of course, the register came with me. Space is a little more at a premium, so it was in storage. So for a rainy day project today, I decided to get the register out of storage and clean it up. Also, the keys got jammed again when a friend tried to operate it.
So, I took the case apart, vacuumed and blew down the innards with an air nozzle, and got the mechanism to release. Somehow that welded cam wheel slipped back to its original place in moving.
I lubricated all moving parts with a liberal application of PB Blaster and wipe down. Upon reassembly, and as I now had the advantage of the internet as a resource for parts and information, I decided to do a little research
After finding a lot of 300 series in brass, I found none painted. This made me slightly suspicious. Mine is clearly black wrinkle finish paint. Honestly, it appears quite well done, with all parts inside & out evenly coated. I couldn't help but feel it was a factory paint. I searched eBay, and the web, but alas couldn't not find a painted model.
I learned where the model number should be, but on first exam, it was not present on my machine and my tag area appeared blank. But, after a closer exam, there were in fact screws holding down a plate, so after quick work with a screwdriver, I realized the model s/n tag had been screwed on to the machine face down and painted over! This must have been done before I owned it as I would not have done such a thing..
This would now lead me to believe the machine has been painted after original purchase and now perhaps not original as I once thought.
Once I turned the tag over, I learned it was a Model 312, with s/n 1283677. (Made after 6/6/1913 if I understand the data records correctly). I also took the cash drawer out and read the guarantee label affixed to the bottom:
Register Number 2388283
Size 711
Finish Mah
Tracer (blank)
Customer (blank)
Not listed on the label but confirmed from collector websites is the ornate pattern on the case is "Dolphin" and was designed by none other the Tiffany.
So now my questions. Internet references reflect the following versions of the Model 312:
( A ) Bronze, oxidized and relieved
This cabinet was a solid bronze casting that was dipped in a black oxide chemical, which turned the cabinet black. The flat edges and the high points of the casting were polished, leaving the black in the low areas and highly shined bronze edging. It was then lacquered to maintain the finish.
( B ) Nickel plated*
This cabinet is usually a solid yellow brass (or sometimes cast iron)* casting that was nickel plated. The drawer front was generally solid nickel because the nickel plating would easily wear off when closing the drawer. Yellow brass is made from copper, zinc and tin. Bronze is copper and tin. Both copper and tin are expensive, so the zinc makes it a lot cheaper to make and was used for most plated machines. Often if they didn't have all of the parts in brass, they would use a bronze part. After many years of wear, the nickel becomes worn off in spots. If you remove all of the nickel, you often find 3 colors, red bronze, yellow brass and solid nickel. This machine will have to be re-plated? Highly polished and lacquered.
( C ) Bronze, natural color.
This cabinet was solid bronze castings. Highly polished and lacquered.
( D ) Oxidized copper and relieved*
This machine is usually made with yellow brass (or cast iron)* casting which were copper plated. The copper was thicker than nickel and would not wear off, so the drawer front was also copper plated brass. It was dipped in the black oxide chemical and the edges and high points of the pattern were highly polished, leaving bright copper edging with the lower areas black. Also lacquered.
( E ) Yellow brass, Natural color
This machine was solid brass castings that were highly polished and lacquered.
( En ) Black enamel, ornamented. (Class 100 only)
This machine is solid yellow castings that were dipped in black oxide and the edges and high points highly polished leaving the black in the low areas. Also lacquered.
Wood Cabinets
Some of the early machines were offered in a solid wood cabinet. These cabinets were made from Oak, Quarter Sawn Oak, Birch, Mahogany, Black Walnut and many other expense woods. They had burled veneer and fancy inlayed patterns of different wood veneers. These were often accented with brass and nickel inlays, as well as nickel plated drawer pull and other hardware.
Many inlay patterns were named such as: The Shell Pattern,Lilly of the Valley, Tulip Pattern, and the Persimmon pattern.
Clearly, my machine is NOT any of the above. It is NOT an early machine (those being 1800's), but my drawer is marked for Mah (Mahogany) and it's obvious there is no wooden cabinet. Was the current drawer a replacement?
What does an original Model 312 in Mah finish look like?Does that mean a brown paint? This machine is clearly black wrinkle finish and the only wood is the base, which is painted black as well.
I looked at some of the locations where the paint was chipped and the underlying metal does appear to be polished nickel. Therefore, would the paint be original from National or is this a customer applied paint job?
Hours of research on the web does not turn up painted examples of a 312. Also the case is mostly not magnetic, however in some areas this is a weak pull, but I'm concluding the magnet is attracted to the cast iron internal frames.
If the black wrinkle finish is not original, whether to leave the machine as is or strip the finish is to be decided. I wish to make it clear, I know this decision is up to my preference, but I also wish to make it clear the machine is more of sentimental value than monetary value, so a restoration to original condition for eventual resale or to increase in value is not my intent as I have no plans to sell it..
The denomination keys "buttons": I looked at the vintage catalog, and it shows white numerals on black for all keys except NO SALE which is black on orange. My register however has:
- black numerals on white for the 10 cent denominations (10, 20, 30, 40, 50);
- white numerals on red for the cent denominations (1 through 9 EXCEPT the 5 which is black on white).
- black on orange for NO SALE.
I know that the 5 button on adding machines, calculators and other registers almost always contrasted for easy recognition so this I figure is original, and as dad's model 1098 is the same way.
I would like to replace the NO SALE flag with an original. An unrestored one to match the other flags would be preferred. As the NO SALE flag appears to be in the same position on all the 300 models (far right for the clerk - far left for the customer), I would conclude all the 300 series NO SALE flags are compatible.
The drawer front is clearly smooth painted metal. All the images I've encountered show the cast National drawer front. Is mine missing or was there / this a "budget" model 312 omitted some of the ornamentation or perhaps there was a wood front in Mahogany?
On the right side of the keyboard, the numerals 5145 are stamped into the front edge. This number is also stamped on the inside of the back metal case. It does not match the warranty registration or the serial number.
So many questions abound. If you have answers, please feel free to contact me at bedt14@aol.com
I have owned this cash register for several decades now, of which I rescued from a fire damaged pharmacy on New York's Lower East Side around 1995. (At that time, one of the owners of the pharmacy chain I was working for (Thriftway Pharmacy) had a side business of buying out sundries & merchandise from bankrupt and smoke/water damaged retail stores at substantially cut prices, and reselling them at nominal prices thereby substantially increasing the profit margin.
In the process of clearing out one such place, I happened upon this cash register lying on its side under the pharmacy shelves in about 2 inches of murky water.
To be quite honest, it almost was not rescued, as my transportation that day was my bosses brand new Mercedes 500SEL, and as you can imagine he was extremely reluctant in allowing some dripping, sooty monstrosity in his new car. He wouldn't even allow it in the trunk. I managed to convince him to allow me to take it but only after I wrapped it in three contractor bags and agreed to hold it in my lap for the hour long ride home.
Upon my getting it home, I immediately proceeded to clean it up. I took note that one of the glass panels were broken (the customer side) and the top glass completely gone. The NO SALE flag was also missing. I had my local glazier cut me replacement glass and I installed it, but not before I made a crude NO SALE flag out of cardboard and a Qtip..
The dealer markings reflect that this machine was sold by:
Bronx Cash Register
341 East 149 Street,
Bronx, NY
established 1912,
MOtt Haven 9-5888
As it turned out Bronx Cash Register was still in business and I contacted them but they could not offer information, sales records or parts.
It operates fairly smoothly, then out of the blue, the keys will jam. I learned the mechanism pretty well from my cleaning, so I pretty much know how to unjam it without too much effort. Upon my examination I discovered that someone very crudely tried to repair the dollar position advance wheel and cam on the days tally wheel.
The tally advance up to 99 cents but does not advance the to the next dollar. I loosened up the set screw and pushed it off to the side, disabling the dollar advance.
After getting it all cleaned and lubricated I put some circa 1928 currency and older silver coinage in it. And it sat on my desk in my room for years. My father enjoyed its presence as he also had an National cash register (see other album), but his is a much younger Model 1098 that came from a toy store "Waldell's Hobbies on Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn) that bought out. (Model 1098 - s/n 2726474). I think is can be a safe conclusion that my affection for cash registers came from him!
After the internet makes its way into my life, I was able to determine it is a 300 series.
I subsequently move upstate and continued displaying it and has been a focal point of my furnishings.
Recently, events in my life have seen me relocate to Texas and of course, the register came with me. Space is a little more at a premium, so it was in storage. So for a rainy day project today, I decided to get the register out of storage and clean it up. Also, the keys got jammed again when a friend tried to operate it.
So, I took the case apart, vacuumed and blew down the innards with an air nozzle, and got the mechanism to release. Somehow that welded cam wheel slipped back to its original place in moving.
I lubricated all moving parts with a liberal application of PB Blaster and wipe down. Upon reassembly, and as I now had the advantage of the internet as a resource for parts and information, I decided to do a little research
After finding a lot of 300 series in brass, I found none painted. This made me slightly suspicious. Mine is clearly black wrinkle finish paint. Honestly, it appears quite well done, with all parts inside & out evenly coated. I couldn't help but feel it was a factory paint. I searched eBay, and the web, but alas couldn't not find a painted model.
I learned where the model number should be, but on first exam, it was not present on my machine and my tag area appeared blank. But, after a closer exam, there were in fact screws holding down a plate, so after quick work with a screwdriver, I realized the model s/n tag had been screwed on to the machine face down and painted over! This must have been done before I owned it as I would not have done such a thing..
This would now lead me to believe the machine has been painted after original purchase and now perhaps not original as I once thought.
Once I turned the tag over, I learned it was a Model 312, with s/n 1283677. (Made after 6/6/1913 if I understand the data records correctly). I also took the cash drawer out and read the guarantee label affixed to the bottom:
Register Number 2388283
Size 711
Finish Mah
Tracer (blank)
Customer (blank)
Not listed on the label but confirmed from collector websites is the ornate pattern on the case is "Dolphin" and was designed by none other the Tiffany.
So now my questions. Internet references reflect the following versions of the Model 312:
( A ) Bronze, oxidized and relieved
This cabinet was a solid bronze casting that was dipped in a black oxide chemical, which turned the cabinet black. The flat edges and the high points of the casting were polished, leaving the black in the low areas and highly shined bronze edging. It was then lacquered to maintain the finish.
( B ) Nickel plated*
This cabinet is usually a solid yellow brass (or sometimes cast iron)* casting that was nickel plated. The drawer front was generally solid nickel because the nickel plating would easily wear off when closing the drawer. Yellow brass is made from copper, zinc and tin. Bronze is copper and tin. Both copper and tin are expensive, so the zinc makes it a lot cheaper to make and was used for most plated machines. Often if they didn't have all of the parts in brass, they would use a bronze part. After many years of wear, the nickel becomes worn off in spots. If you remove all of the nickel, you often find 3 colors, red bronze, yellow brass and solid nickel. This machine will have to be re-plated? Highly polished and lacquered.
( C ) Bronze, natural color.
This cabinet was solid bronze castings. Highly polished and lacquered.
( D ) Oxidized copper and relieved*
This machine is usually made with yellow brass (or cast iron)* casting which were copper plated. The copper was thicker than nickel and would not wear off, so the drawer front was also copper plated brass. It was dipped in the black oxide chemical and the edges and high points of the pattern were highly polished, leaving bright copper edging with the lower areas black. Also lacquered.
( E ) Yellow brass, Natural color
This machine was solid brass castings that were highly polished and lacquered.
( En ) Black enamel, ornamented. (Class 100 only)
This machine is solid yellow castings that were dipped in black oxide and the edges and high points highly polished leaving the black in the low areas. Also lacquered.
Wood Cabinets
Some of the early machines were offered in a solid wood cabinet. These cabinets were made from Oak, Quarter Sawn Oak, Birch, Mahogany, Black Walnut and many other expense woods. They had burled veneer and fancy inlayed patterns of different wood veneers. These were often accented with brass and nickel inlays, as well as nickel plated drawer pull and other hardware.
Many inlay patterns were named such as: The Shell Pattern,Lilly of the Valley, Tulip Pattern, and the Persimmon pattern.
Clearly, my machine is NOT any of the above. It is NOT an early machine (those being 1800's), but my drawer is marked for Mah (Mahogany) and it's obvious there is no wooden cabinet. Was the current drawer a replacement?
What does an original Model 312 in Mah finish look like?Does that mean a brown paint? This machine is clearly black wrinkle finish and the only wood is the base, which is painted black as well.
I looked at some of the locations where the paint was chipped and the underlying metal does appear to be polished nickel. Therefore, would the paint be original from National or is this a customer applied paint job?
Hours of research on the web does not turn up painted examples of a 312. Also the case is mostly not magnetic, however in some areas this is a weak pull, but I'm concluding the magnet is attracted to the cast iron internal frames.
If the black wrinkle finish is not original, whether to leave the machine as is or strip the finish is to be decided. I wish to make it clear, I know this decision is up to my preference, but I also wish to make it clear the machine is more of sentimental value than monetary value, so a restoration to original condition for eventual resale or to increase in value is not my intent as I have no plans to sell it..
The denomination keys "buttons": I looked at the vintage catalog, and it shows white numerals on black for all keys except NO SALE which is black on orange. My register however has:
- black numerals on white for the 10 cent denominations (10, 20, 30, 40, 50);
- white numerals on red for the cent denominations (1 through 9 EXCEPT the 5 which is black on white).
- black on orange for NO SALE.
I know that the 5 button on adding machines, calculators and other registers almost always contrasted for easy recognition so this I figure is original, and as dad's model 1098 is the same way.
I would like to replace the NO SALE flag with an original. An unrestored one to match the other flags would be preferred. As the NO SALE flag appears to be in the same position on all the 300 models (far right for the clerk - far left for the customer), I would conclude all the 300 series NO SALE flags are compatible.
The drawer front is clearly smooth painted metal. All the images I've encountered show the cast National drawer front. Is mine missing or was there / this a "budget" model 312 omitted some of the ornamentation or perhaps there was a wood front in Mahogany?
On the right side of the keyboard, the numerals 5145 are stamped into the front edge. This number is also stamped on the inside of the back metal case. It does not match the warranty registration or the serial number.
So many questions abound. If you have answers, please feel free to contact me at bedt14@aol.com
Mixed Media Abstract Watercolor 9x12
Created Jan 12 2011
When I created this, I was thinking of how much peace and serenity being by the sea gives me.
Supplies
watercolor Strathmore paper 140 lb., 9x12
Lyra watercolor crayons
water and brush
qtip for swirling circles in still wet paint
black acrylic paint for border
Glimmer gel by CTMH
--Matte Mr Super Clear (MSC) - to key the surface and then to preserve
--QTips/microbrush/cotton ball to apply color
--Mr Clean Magic Eraser - to erase mistakes
I have owned this cash register for several decades now, of which I rescued from a fire damaged pharmacy on New York's Lower East Side around 1995. (At that time, one of the owners of the pharmacy chain I was working for (Thriftway Pharmacy) had a side business of buying out sundries & merchandise from bankrupt and smoke/water damaged retail stores at substantially cut prices, and reselling them at nominal prices thereby substantially increasing the profit margin.
In the process of clearing out one such place, I happened upon this cash register lying on its side under the pharmacy shelves in about 2 inches of murky water.
To be quite honest, it almost was not rescued, as my transportation that day was my bosses brand new Mercedes 500SEL, and as you can imagine he was extremely reluctant in allowing some dripping, sooty monstrosity in his new car. He wouldn't even allow it in the trunk. I managed to convince him to allow me to take it but only after I wrapped it in three contractor bags and agreed to hold it in my lap for the hour long ride home.
Upon my getting it home, I immediately proceeded to clean it up. I took note that one of the glass panels were broken (the customer side) and the top glass completely gone. The NO SALE flag was also missing. I had my local glazier cut me replacement glass and I installed it, but not before I made a crude NO SALE flag out of cardboard and a Qtip..
The dealer markings reflect that this machine was sold by:
Bronx Cash Register
341 East 149 Street,
Bronx, NY
established 1912,
MOtt Haven 9-5888
As it turned out Bronx Cash Register was still in business and I contacted them but they could not offer information, sales records or parts.
It operates fairly smoothly, then out of the blue, the keys will jam. I learned the mechanism pretty well from my cleaning, so I pretty much know how to unjam it without too much effort. Upon my examination I discovered that someone very crudely tried to repair the dollar position advance wheel and cam on the days tally wheel.
The tally advance up to 99 cents but does not advance the to the next dollar. I loosened up the set screw and pushed it off to the side, disabling the dollar advance.
After getting it all cleaned and lubricated I put some circa 1928 currency and older silver coinage in it. And it sat on my desk in my room for years. My father enjoyed its presence as he also had an National cash register (see other album), but his is a much younger Model 1098 that came from a toy store "Waldell's Hobbies on Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn) that bought out. (Model 1098 - s/n 2726474). I think is can be a safe conclusion that my affection for cash registers came from him!
After the internet makes its way into my life, I was able to determine it is a 300 series.
I subsequently move upstate and continued displaying it and has been a focal point of my furnishings.
Recently, events in my life have seen me relocate to Texas and of course, the register came with me. Space is a little more at a premium, so it was in storage. So for a rainy day project today, I decided to get the register out of storage and clean it up. Also, the keys got jammed again when a friend tried to operate it.
So, I took the case apart, vacuumed and blew down the innards with an air nozzle, and got the mechanism to release. Somehow that welded cam wheel slipped back to its original place in moving.
I lubricated all moving parts with a liberal application of PB Blaster and wipe down. Upon reassembly, and as I now had the advantage of the internet as a resource for parts and information, I decided to do a little research
After finding a lot of 300 series in brass, I found none painted. This made me slightly suspicious. Mine is clearly black wrinkle finish paint. Honestly, it appears quite well done, with all parts inside & out evenly coated. I couldn't help but feel it was a factory paint. I searched eBay, and the web, but alas couldn't not find a painted model.
I learned where the model number should be, but on first exam, it was not present on my machine and my tag area appeared blank. But, after a closer exam, there were in fact screws holding down a plate, so after quick work with a screwdriver, I realized the model s/n tag had been screwed on to the machine face down and painted over! This must have been done before I owned it as I would not have done such a thing..
This would now lead me to believe the machine has been painted after original purchase and now perhaps not original as I once thought.
Once I turned the tag over, I learned it was a Model 312, with s/n 1283677. (Made after 6/6/1913 if I understand the data records correctly). I also took the cash drawer out and read the guarantee label affixed to the bottom:
Register Number 2388283
Size 711
Finish Mah
Tracer (blank)
Customer (blank)
Not listed on the label but confirmed from collector websites is the ornate pattern on the case is "Dolphin" and was designed by none other the Tiffany.
So now my questions. Internet references reflect the following versions of the Model 312:
( A ) Bronze, oxidized and relieved
This cabinet was a solid bronze casting that was dipped in a black oxide chemical, which turned the cabinet black. The flat edges and the high points of the casting were polished, leaving the black in the low areas and highly shined bronze edging. It was then lacquered to maintain the finish.
( B ) Nickel plated*
This cabinet is usually a solid yellow brass (or sometimes cast iron)* casting that was nickel plated. The drawer front was generally solid nickel because the nickel plating would easily wear off when closing the drawer. Yellow brass is made from copper, zinc and tin. Bronze is copper and tin. Both copper and tin are expensive, so the zinc makes it a lot cheaper to make and was used for most plated machines. Often if they didn't have all of the parts in brass, they would use a bronze part. After many years of wear, the nickel becomes worn off in spots. If you remove all of the nickel, you often find 3 colors, red bronze, yellow brass and solid nickel. This machine will have to be re-plated? Highly polished and lacquered.
( C ) Bronze, natural color.
This cabinet was solid bronze castings. Highly polished and lacquered.
( D ) Oxidized copper and relieved*
This machine is usually made with yellow brass (or cast iron)* casting which were copper plated. The copper was thicker than nickel and would not wear off, so the drawer front was also copper plated brass. It was dipped in the black oxide chemical and the edges and high points of the pattern were highly polished, leaving bright copper edging with the lower areas black. Also lacquered.
( E ) Yellow brass, Natural color
This machine was solid brass castings that were highly polished and lacquered.
( En ) Black enamel, ornamented. (Class 100 only)
This machine is solid yellow castings that were dipped in black oxide and the edges and high points highly polished leaving the black in the low areas. Also lacquered.
Wood Cabinets
Some of the early machines were offered in a solid wood cabinet. These cabinets were made from Oak, Quarter Sawn Oak, Birch, Mahogany, Black Walnut and many other expense woods. They had burled veneer and fancy inlayed patterns of different wood veneers. These were often accented with brass and nickel inlays, as well as nickel plated drawer pull and other hardware.
Many inlay patterns were named such as: The Shell Pattern,Lilly of the Valley, Tulip Pattern, and the Persimmon pattern.
Clearly, my machine is NOT any of the above. It is NOT an early machine (those being 1800's), but my drawer is marked for Mah (Mahogany) and it's obvious there is no wooden cabinet. Was the current drawer a replacement?
What does an original Model 312 in Mah finish look like?Does that mean a brown paint? This machine is clearly black wrinkle finish and the only wood is the base, which is painted black as well.
I looked at some of the locations where the paint was chipped and the underlying metal does appear to be polished nickel. Therefore, would the paint be original from National or is this a customer applied paint job?
Hours of research on the web does not turn up painted examples of a 312. Also the case is mostly not magnetic, however in some areas this is a weak pull, but I'm concluding the magnet is attracted to the cast iron internal frames.
If the black wrinkle finish is not original, whether to leave the machine as is or strip the finish is to be decided. I wish to make it clear, I know this decision is up to my preference, but I also wish to make it clear the machine is more of sentimental value than monetary value, so a restoration to original condition for eventual resale or to increase in value is not my intent as I have no plans to sell it..
The denomination keys "buttons": I looked at the vintage catalog, and it shows white numerals on black for all keys except NO SALE which is black on orange. My register however has:
- black numerals on white for the 10 cent denominations (10, 20, 30, 40, 50);
- white numerals on red for the cent denominations (1 through 9 EXCEPT the 5 which is black on white).
- black on orange for NO SALE.
I know that the 5 button on adding machines, calculators and other registers almost always contrasted for easy recognition so this I figure is original, and as dad's model 1098 is the same way.
I would like to replace the NO SALE flag with an original. An unrestored one to match the other flags would be preferred. As the NO SALE flag appears to be in the same position on all the 300 models (far right for the clerk - far left for the customer), I would conclude all the 300 series NO SALE flags are compatible.
The drawer front is clearly smooth painted metal. All the images I've encountered show the cast National drawer front. Is mine missing or was there / this a "budget" model 312 omitted some of the ornamentation or perhaps there was a wood front in Mahogany?
On the right side of the keyboard, the numerals 5145 are stamped into the front edge. This number is also stamped on the inside of the back metal case. It does not match the warranty registration or the serial number.
So many questions abound. If you have answers, please feel free to contact me at bedt14@aol.com
I have owned this cash register for several decades now, of which I rescued from a fire damaged pharmacy on New York's Lower East Side around 1995. (At that time, one of the owners of the pharmacy chain I was working for (Thriftway Pharmacy) had a side business of buying out sundries & merchandise from bankrupt and smoke/water damaged retail stores at substantially cut prices, and reselling them at nominal prices thereby substantially increasing the profit margin.
In the process of clearing out one such place, I happened upon this cash register lying on its side under the pharmacy shelves in about 2 inches of murky water.
To be quite honest, it almost was not rescued, as my transportation that day was my bosses brand new Mercedes 500SEL, and as you can imagine he was extremely reluctant in allowing some dripping, sooty monstrosity in his new car. He wouldn't even allow it in the trunk. I managed to convince him to allow me to take it but only after I wrapped it in three contractor bags and agreed to hold it in my lap for the hour long ride home.
Upon my getting it home, I immediately proceeded to clean it up. I took note that one of the glass panels were broken (the customer side) and the top glass completely gone. The NO SALE flag was also missing. I had my local glazier cut me replacement glass and I installed it, but not before I made a crude NO SALE flag out of cardboard and a Qtip..
The dealer markings reflect that this machine was sold by:
Bronx Cash Register
341 East 149 Street,
Bronx, NY
established 1912,
MOtt Haven 9-5888
As it turned out Bronx Cash Register was still in business and I contacted them but they could not offer information, sales records or parts.
It operates fairly smoothly, then out of the blue, the keys will jam. I learned the mechanism pretty well from my cleaning, so I pretty much know how to unjam it without too much effort. Upon my examination I discovered that someone very crudely tried to repair the dollar position advance wheel and cam on the days tally wheel.
The tally advance up to 99 cents but does not advance the to the next dollar. I loosened up the set screw and pushed it off to the side, disabling the dollar advance.
After getting it all cleaned and lubricated I put some circa 1928 currency and older silver coinage in it. And it sat on my desk in my room for years. My father enjoyed its presence as he also had an National cash register (see other album), but his is a much younger Model 1098 that came from a toy store "Waldell's Hobbies on Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn) that bought out. (Model 1098 - s/n 2726474). I think is can be a safe conclusion that my affection for cash registers came from him!
After the internet makes its way into my life, I was able to determine it is a 300 series.
I subsequently move upstate and continued displaying it and has been a focal point of my furnishings.
Recently, events in my life have seen me relocate to Texas and of course, the register came with me. Space is a little more at a premium, so it was in storage. So for a rainy day project today, I decided to get the register out of storage and clean it up. Also, the keys got jammed again when a friend tried to operate it.
So, I took the case apart, vacuumed and blew down the innards with an air nozzle, and got the mechanism to release. Somehow that welded cam wheel slipped back to its original place in moving.
I lubricated all moving parts with a liberal application of PB Blaster and wipe down. Upon reassembly, and as I now had the advantage of the internet as a resource for parts and information, I decided to do a little research
After finding a lot of 300 series in brass, I found none painted. This made me slightly suspicious. Mine is clearly black wrinkle finish paint. Honestly, it appears quite well done, with all parts inside & out evenly coated. I couldn't help but feel it was a factory paint. I searched eBay, and the web, but alas couldn't not find a painted model.
I learned where the model number should be, but on first exam, it was not present on my machine and my tag area appeared blank. But, after a closer exam, there were in fact screws holding down a plate, so after quick work with a screwdriver, I realized the model s/n tag had been screwed on to the machine face down and painted over! This must have been done before I owned it as I would not have done such a thing..
This would now lead me to believe the machine has been painted after original purchase and now perhaps not original as I once thought.
Once I turned the tag over, I learned it was a Model 312, with s/n 1283677. (Made after 6/6/1913 if I understand the data records correctly). I also took the cash drawer out and read the guarantee label affixed to the bottom:
Register Number 2388283
Size 711
Finish Mah
Tracer (blank)
Customer (blank)
Not listed on the label but confirmed from collector websites is the ornate pattern on the case is "Dolphin" and was designed by none other the Tiffany.
So now my questions. Internet references reflect the following versions of the Model 312:
( A ) Bronze, oxidized and relieved
This cabinet was a solid bronze casting that was dipped in a black oxide chemical, which turned the cabinet black. The flat edges and the high points of the casting were polished, leaving the black in the low areas and highly shined bronze edging. It was then lacquered to maintain the finish.
( B ) Nickel plated*
This cabinet is usually a solid yellow brass (or sometimes cast iron)* casting that was nickel plated. The drawer front was generally solid nickel because the nickel plating would easily wear off when closing the drawer. Yellow brass is made from copper, zinc and tin. Bronze is copper and tin. Both copper and tin are expensive, so the zinc makes it a lot cheaper to make and was used for most plated machines. Often if they didn't have all of the parts in brass, they would use a bronze part. After many years of wear, the nickel becomes worn off in spots. If you remove all of the nickel, you often find 3 colors, red bronze, yellow brass and solid nickel. This machine will have to be re-plated? Highly polished and lacquered.
( C ) Bronze, natural color.
This cabinet was solid bronze castings. Highly polished and lacquered.
( D ) Oxidized copper and relieved*
This machine is usually made with yellow brass (or cast iron)* casting which were copper plated. The copper was thicker than nickel and would not wear off, so the drawer front was also copper plated brass. It was dipped in the black oxide chemical and the edges and high points of the pattern were highly polished, leaving bright copper edging with the lower areas black. Also lacquered.
( E ) Yellow brass, Natural color
This machine was solid brass castings that were highly polished and lacquered.
( En ) Black enamel, ornamented. (Class 100 only)
This machine is solid yellow castings that were dipped in black oxide and the edges and high points highly polished leaving the black in the low areas. Also lacquered.
Wood Cabinets
Some of the early machines were offered in a solid wood cabinet. These cabinets were made from Oak, Quarter Sawn Oak, Birch, Mahogany, Black Walnut and many other expense woods. They had burled veneer and fancy inlayed patterns of different wood veneers. These were often accented with brass and nickel inlays, as well as nickel plated drawer pull and other hardware.
Many inlay patterns were named such as: The Shell Pattern,Lilly of the Valley, Tulip Pattern, and the Persimmon pattern.
Clearly, my machine is NOT any of the above. It is NOT an early machine (those being 1800's), but my drawer is marked for Mah (Mahogany) and it's obvious there is no wooden cabinet. Was the current drawer a replacement?
What does an original Model 312 in Mah finish look like?Does that mean a brown paint? This machine is clearly black wrinkle finish and the only wood is the base, which is painted black as well.
I looked at some of the locations where the paint was chipped and the underlying metal does appear to be polished nickel. Therefore, would the paint be original from National or is this a customer applied paint job?
Hours of research on the web does not turn up painted examples of a 312. Also the case is mostly not magnetic, however in some areas this is a weak pull, but I'm concluding the magnet is attracted to the cast iron internal frames.
If the black wrinkle finish is not original, whether to leave the machine as is or strip the finish is to be decided. I wish to make it clear, I know this decision is up to my preference, but I also wish to make it clear the machine is more of sentimental value than monetary value, so a restoration to original condition for eventual resale or to increase in value is not my intent as I have no plans to sell it..
The denomination keys "buttons": I looked at the vintage catalog, and it shows white numerals on black for all keys except NO SALE which is black on orange. My register however has:
- black numerals on white for the 10 cent denominations (10, 20, 30, 40, 50);
- white numerals on red for the cent denominations (1 through 9 EXCEPT the 5 which is black on white).
- black on orange for NO SALE.
I know that the 5 button on adding machines, calculators and other registers almost always contrasted for easy recognition so this I figure is original, and as dad's model 1098 is the same way.
I would like to replace the NO SALE flag with an original. An unrestored one to match the other flags would be preferred. As the NO SALE flag appears to be in the same position on all the 300 models (far right for the clerk - far left for the customer), I would conclude all the 300 series NO SALE flags are compatible.
The drawer front is clearly smooth painted metal. All the images I've encountered show the cast National drawer front. Is mine missing or was there / this a "budget" model 312 omitted some of the ornamentation or perhaps there was a wood front in Mahogany?
On the right side of the keyboard, the numerals 5145 are stamped into the front edge. This number is also stamped on the inside of the back metal case. It does not match the warranty registration or the serial number.
So many questions abound. If you have answers, please feel free to contact me at bedt14@aol.com
I keep some of my cooler things stashed in my closet...most of this stuff I have found this year.....
I have owned this cash register for several decades now, of which I rescued from a fire damaged pharmacy on New York's Lower East Side around 1995. (At that time, one of the owners of the pharmacy chain I was working for (Thriftway Pharmacy) had a side business of buying out sundries & merchandise from bankrupt and smoke/water damaged retail stores at substantially cut prices, and reselling them at nominal prices thereby substantially increasing the profit margin.
In the process of clearing out one such place, I happened upon this cash register lying on its side under the pharmacy shelves in about 2 inches of murky water.
To be quite honest, it almost was not rescued, as my transportation that day was my bosses brand new Mercedes 500SEL, and as you can imagine he was extremely reluctant in allowing some dripping, sooty monstrosity in his new car. He wouldn't even allow it in the trunk. I managed to convince him to allow me to take it but only after I wrapped it in three contractor bags and agreed to hold it in my lap for the hour long ride home.
Upon my getting it home, I immediately proceeded to clean it up. I took note that one of the glass panels were broken (the customer side) and the top glass completely gone. The NO SALE flag was also missing. I had my local glazier cut me replacement glass and I installed it, but not before I made a crude NO SALE flag out of cardboard and a Qtip..
The dealer markings reflect that this machine was sold by:
Bronx Cash Register
341 East 149 Street,
Bronx, NY
established 1912,
MOtt Haven 9-5888
As it turned out Bronx Cash Register was still in business and I contacted them but they could not offer information, sales records or parts.
It operates fairly smoothly, then out of the blue, the keys will jam. I learned the mechanism pretty well from my cleaning, so I pretty much know how to unjam it without too much effort. Upon my examination I discovered that someone very crudely tried to repair the dollar position advance wheel and cam on the days tally wheel.
The tally advance up to 99 cents but does not advance the to the next dollar. I loosened up the set screw and pushed it off to the side, disabling the dollar advance.
After getting it all cleaned and lubricated I put some circa 1928 currency and older silver coinage in it. And it sat on my desk in my room for years. My father enjoyed its presence as he also had an National cash register (see other album), but his is a much younger Model 1098 that came from a toy store "Waldell's Hobbies on Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn) that bought out. (Model 1098 - s/n 2726474). I think is can be a safe conclusion that my affection for cash registers came from him!
After the internet makes its way into my life, I was able to determine it is a 300 series.
I subsequently move upstate and continued displaying it and has been a focal point of my furnishings.
Recently, events in my life have seen me relocate to Texas and of course, the register came with me. Space is a little more at a premium, so it was in storage. So for a rainy day project today, I decided to get the register out of storage and clean it up. Also, the keys got jammed again when a friend tried to operate it.
So, I took the case apart, vacuumed and blew down the innards with an air nozzle, and got the mechanism to release. Somehow that welded cam wheel slipped back to its original place in moving.
I lubricated all moving parts with a liberal application of PB Blaster and wipe down. Upon reassembly, and as I now had the advantage of the internet as a resource for parts and information, I decided to do a little research
After finding a lot of 300 series in brass, I found none painted. This made me slightly suspicious. Mine is clearly black wrinkle finish paint. Honestly, it appears quite well done, with all parts inside & out evenly coated. I couldn't help but feel it was a factory paint. I searched eBay, and the web, but alas couldn't not find a painted model.
I learned where the model number should be, but on first exam, it was not present on my machine and my tag area appeared blank. But, after a closer exam, there were in fact screws holding down a plate, so after quick work with a screwdriver, I realized the model s/n tag had been screwed on to the machine face down and painted over! This must have been done before I owned it as I would not have done such a thing..
This would now lead me to believe the machine has been painted after original purchase and now perhaps not original as I once thought.
Once I turned the tag over, I learned it was a Model 312, with s/n 1283677. (Made after 6/6/1913 if I understand the data records correctly). I also took the cash drawer out and read the guarantee label affixed to the bottom:
Register Number 2388283
Size 711
Finish Mah
Tracer (blank)
Customer (blank)
Not listed on the label but confirmed from collector websites is the ornate pattern on the case is "Dolphin" and was designed by none other the Tiffany.
So now my questions. Internet references reflect the following versions of the Model 312:
( A ) Bronze, oxidized and relieved
This cabinet was a solid bronze casting that was dipped in a black oxide chemical, which turned the cabinet black. The flat edges and the high points of the casting were polished, leaving the black in the low areas and highly shined bronze edging. It was then lacquered to maintain the finish.
( B ) Nickel plated*
This cabinet is usually a solid yellow brass (or sometimes cast iron)* casting that was nickel plated. The drawer front was generally solid nickel because the nickel plating would easily wear off when closing the drawer. Yellow brass is made from copper, zinc and tin. Bronze is copper and tin. Both copper and tin are expensive, so the zinc makes it a lot cheaper to make and was used for most plated machines. Often if they didn't have all of the parts in brass, they would use a bronze part. After many years of wear, the nickel becomes worn off in spots. If you remove all of the nickel, you often find 3 colors, red bronze, yellow brass and solid nickel. This machine will have to be re-plated? Highly polished and lacquered.
( C ) Bronze, natural color.
This cabinet was solid bronze castings. Highly polished and lacquered.
( D ) Oxidized copper and relieved*
This machine is usually made with yellow brass (or cast iron)* casting which were copper plated. The copper was thicker than nickel and would not wear off, so the drawer front was also copper plated brass. It was dipped in the black oxide chemical and the edges and high points of the pattern were highly polished, leaving bright copper edging with the lower areas black. Also lacquered.
( E ) Yellow brass, Natural color
This machine was solid brass castings that were highly polished and lacquered.
( En ) Black enamel, ornamented. (Class 100 only)
This machine is solid yellow castings that were dipped in black oxide and the edges and high points highly polished leaving the black in the low areas. Also lacquered.
Wood Cabinets
Some of the early machines were offered in a solid wood cabinet. These cabinets were made from Oak, Quarter Sawn Oak, Birch, Mahogany, Black Walnut and many other expense woods. They had burled veneer and fancy inlayed patterns of different wood veneers. These were often accented with brass and nickel inlays, as well as nickel plated drawer pull and other hardware.
Many inlay patterns were named such as: The Shell Pattern,Lilly of the Valley, Tulip Pattern, and the Persimmon pattern.
Clearly, my machine is NOT any of the above. It is NOT an early machine (those being 1800's), but my drawer is marked for Mah (Mahogany) and it's obvious there is no wooden cabinet. Was the current drawer a replacement?
What does an original Model 312 in Mah finish look like?Does that mean a brown paint? This machine is clearly black wrinkle finish and the only wood is the base, which is painted black as well.
I looked at some of the locations where the paint was chipped and the underlying metal does appear to be polished nickel. Therefore, would the paint be original from National or is this a customer applied paint job?
Hours of research on the web does not turn up painted examples of a 312. Also the case is mostly not magnetic, however in some areas this is a weak pull, but I'm concluding the magnet is attracted to the cast iron internal frames.
If the black wrinkle finish is not original, whether to leave the machine as is or strip the finish is to be decided. I wish to make it clear, I know this decision is up to my preference, but I also wish to make it clear the machine is more of sentimental value than monetary value, so a restoration to original condition for eventual resale or to increase in value is not my intent as I have no plans to sell it..
The denomination keys "buttons": I looked at the vintage catalog, and it shows white numerals on black for all keys except NO SALE which is black on orange. My register however has:
- black numerals on white for the 10 cent denominations (10, 20, 30, 40, 50);
- white numerals on red for the cent denominations (1 through 9 EXCEPT the 5 which is black on white).
- black on orange for NO SALE.
I know that the 5 button on adding machines, calculators and other registers almost always contrasted for easy recognition so this I figure is original, and as dad's model 1098 is the same way.
I would like to replace the NO SALE flag with an original. An unrestored one to match the other flags would be preferred. As the NO SALE flag appears to be in the same position on all the 300 models (far right for the clerk - far left for the customer), I would conclude all the 300 series NO SALE flags are compatible.
The drawer front is clearly smooth painted metal. All the images I've encountered show the cast National drawer front. Is mine missing or was there / this a "budget" model 312 omitted some of the ornamentation or perhaps there was a wood front in Mahogany?
On the right side of the keyboard, the numerals 5145 are stamped into the front edge. This number is also stamped on the inside of the back metal case. It does not match the warranty registration or the serial number.
So many questions abound. If you have answers, please feel free to contact me at bedt14@aol.com
His and Her's bathrooms.
Attn: All my male contacts
You are excused from commenting on any pictures of girly-girl stuff, or baby shots, or any kind of home decor pictures I might post, now or in the future. I totally understand! LOL!
Cleaning the 1936 Remington Rand No.16. Cleaning the basket with Sticky stuff remover to get the QAZWSX keys working again.
- Fixed the carriage return with a new screw and nut.
- Made a new spacebar from wood, but I didn't like it.
- 2 nuts came falling out of the machine. I have no clue where they belong
- Clean behind front plate
- Clean interior via lint access doors with Sticky stuff remover / alocohol
The black and white Pentax Espio shot of this typewriter.
I have owned this cash register for several decades now, of which I rescued from a fire damaged pharmacy on New York's Lower East Side around 1995. (At that time, one of the owners of the pharmacy chain I was working for (Thriftway Pharmacy) had a side business of buying out sundries & merchandise from bankrupt and smoke/water damaged retail stores at substantially cut prices, and reselling them at nominal prices thereby substantially increasing the profit margin.
In the process of clearing out one such place, I happened upon this cash register lying on its side under the pharmacy shelves in about 2 inches of murky water.
To be quite honest, it almost was not rescued, as my transportation that day was my bosses brand new Mercedes 500SEL, and as you can imagine he was extremely reluctant in allowing some dripping, sooty monstrosity in his new car. He wouldn't even allow it in the trunk. I managed to convince him to allow me to take it but only after I wrapped it in three contractor bags and agreed to hold it in my lap for the hour long ride home.
Upon my getting it home, I immediately proceeded to clean it up. I took note that one of the glass panels were broken (the customer side) and the top glass completely gone. The NO SALE flag was also missing. I had my local glazier cut me replacement glass and I installed it, but not before I made a crude NO SALE flag out of cardboard and a Qtip..
The dealer markings reflect that this machine was sold by:
Bronx Cash Register
341 East 149 Street,
Bronx, NY
established 1912,
MOtt Haven 9-5888
As it turned out Bronx Cash Register was still in business and I contacted them but they could not offer information, sales records or parts.
It operates fairly smoothly, then out of the blue, the keys will jam. I learned the mechanism pretty well from my cleaning, so I pretty much know how to unjam it without too much effort. Upon my examination I discovered that someone very crudely tried to repair the dollar position advance wheel and cam on the days tally wheel.
The tally advance up to 99 cents but does not advance the to the next dollar. I loosened up the set screw and pushed it off to the side, disabling the dollar advance.
After getting it all cleaned and lubricated I put some circa 1928 currency and older silver coinage in it. And it sat on my desk in my room for years. My father enjoyed its presence as he also had an National cash register (see other album), but his is a much younger Model 1098 that came from a toy store "Waldell's Hobbies on Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn) that bought out. (Model 1098 - s/n 2726474). I think is can be a safe conclusion that my affection for cash registers came from him!
After the internet makes its way into my life, I was able to determine it is a 300 series.
I subsequently move upstate and continued displaying it and has been a focal point of my furnishings.
Recently, events in my life have seen me relocate to Texas and of course, the register came with me. Space is a little more at a premium, so it was in storage. So for a rainy day project today, I decided to get the register out of storage and clean it up. Also, the keys got jammed again when a friend tried to operate it.
So, I took the case apart, vacuumed and blew down the innards with an air nozzle, and got the mechanism to release. Somehow that welded cam wheel slipped back to its original place in moving.
I lubricated all moving parts with a liberal application of PB Blaster and wipe down. Upon reassembly, and as I now had the advantage of the internet as a resource for parts and information, I decided to do a little research
After finding a lot of 300 series in brass, I found none painted. This made me slightly suspicious. Mine is clearly black wrinkle finish paint. Honestly, it appears quite well done, with all parts inside & out evenly coated. I couldn't help but feel it was a factory paint. I searched eBay, and the web, but alas couldn't not find a painted model.
I learned where the model number should be, but on first exam, it was not present on my machine and my tag area appeared blank. But, after a closer exam, there were in fact screws holding down a plate, so after quick work with a screwdriver, I realized the model s/n tag had been screwed on to the machine face down and painted over! This must have been done before I owned it as I would not have done such a thing..
This would now lead me to believe the machine has been painted after original purchase and now perhaps not original as I once thought.
Once I turned the tag over, I learned it was a Model 312, with s/n 1283677. (Made after 6/6/1913 if I understand the data records correctly). I also took the cash drawer out and read the guarantee label affixed to the bottom:
Register Number 2388283
Size 711
Finish Mah
Tracer (blank)
Customer (blank)
Not listed on the label but confirmed from collector websites is the ornate pattern on the case is "Dolphin" and was designed by none other the Tiffany.
So now my questions. Internet references reflect the following versions of the Model 312:
( A ) Bronze, oxidized and relieved
This cabinet was a solid bronze casting that was dipped in a black oxide chemical, which turned the cabinet black. The flat edges and the high points of the casting were polished, leaving the black in the low areas and highly shined bronze edging. It was then lacquered to maintain the finish.
( B ) Nickel plated*
This cabinet is usually a solid yellow brass (or sometimes cast iron)* casting that was nickel plated. The drawer front was generally solid nickel because the nickel plating would easily wear off when closing the drawer. Yellow brass is made from copper, zinc and tin. Bronze is copper and tin. Both copper and tin are expensive, so the zinc makes it a lot cheaper to make and was used for most plated machines. Often if they didn't have all of the parts in brass, they would use a bronze part. After many years of wear, the nickel becomes worn off in spots. If you remove all of the nickel, you often find 3 colors, red bronze, yellow brass and solid nickel. This machine will have to be re-plated? Highly polished and lacquered.
( C ) Bronze, natural color.
This cabinet was solid bronze castings. Highly polished and lacquered.
( D ) Oxidized copper and relieved*
This machine is usually made with yellow brass (or cast iron)* casting which were copper plated. The copper was thicker than nickel and would not wear off, so the drawer front was also copper plated brass. It was dipped in the black oxide chemical and the edges and high points of the pattern were highly polished, leaving bright copper edging with the lower areas black. Also lacquered.
( E ) Yellow brass, Natural color
This machine was solid brass castings that were highly polished and lacquered.
( En ) Black enamel, ornamented. (Class 100 only)
This machine is solid yellow castings that were dipped in black oxide and the edges and high points highly polished leaving the black in the low areas. Also lacquered.
Wood Cabinets
Some of the early machines were offered in a solid wood cabinet. These cabinets were made from Oak, Quarter Sawn Oak, Birch, Mahogany, Black Walnut and many other expense woods. They had burled veneer and fancy inlayed patterns of different wood veneers. These were often accented with brass and nickel inlays, as well as nickel plated drawer pull and other hardware.
Many inlay patterns were named such as: The Shell Pattern,Lilly of the Valley, Tulip Pattern, and the Persimmon pattern.
Clearly, my machine is NOT any of the above. It is NOT an early machine (those being 1800's), but my drawer is marked for Mah (Mahogany) and it's obvious there is no wooden cabinet. Was the current drawer a replacement?
What does an original Model 312 in Mah finish look like?Does that mean a brown paint? This machine is clearly black wrinkle finish and the only wood is the base, which is painted black as well.
I looked at some of the locations where the paint was chipped and the underlying metal does appear to be polished nickel. Therefore, would the paint be original from National or is this a customer applied paint job?
Hours of research on the web does not turn up painted examples of a 312. Also the case is mostly not magnetic, however in some areas this is a weak pull, but I'm concluding the magnet is attracted to the cast iron internal frames.
If the black wrinkle finish is not original, whether to leave the machine as is or strip the finish is to be decided. I wish to make it clear, I know this decision is up to my preference, but I also wish to make it clear the machine is more of sentimental value than monetary value, so a restoration to original condition for eventual resale or to increase in value is not my intent as I have no plans to sell it..
The denomination keys "buttons": I looked at the vintage catalog, and it shows white numerals on black for all keys except NO SALE which is black on orange. My register however has:
- black numerals on white for the 10 cent denominations (10, 20, 30, 40, 50);
- white numerals on red for the cent denominations (1 through 9 EXCEPT the 5 which is black on white).
- black on orange for NO SALE.
I know that the 5 button on adding machines, calculators and other registers almost always contrasted for easy recognition so this I figure is original, and as dad's model 1098 is the same way.
I would like to replace the NO SALE flag with an original. An unrestored one to match the other flags would be preferred. As the NO SALE flag appears to be in the same position on all the 300 models (far right for the clerk - far left for the customer), I would conclude all the 300 series NO SALE flags are compatible.
The drawer front is clearly smooth painted metal. All the images I've encountered show the cast National drawer front. Is mine missing or was there / this a "budget" model 312 omitted some of the ornamentation or perhaps there was a wood front in Mahogany?
On the right side of the keyboard, the numerals 5145 are stamped into the front edge. This number is also stamped on the inside of the back metal case. It does not match the warranty registration or the serial number.
So many questions abound. If you have answers, please feel free to contact me at bedt14@aol.com
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I removed the focus ring and cleaned the front lens element according to instructions for Agfa reconditioning passed on by Bill Bresler. Well, more or less; I used WD-40 to loosen the lens element, and pliers to remove it. Instead of acetone (cancer, anyone?) I used rubbing alcohol to clean the offending lens element. The rest of the pieces look squeaky clean, and this relatively minor operation will make the camera usable again.
Try making your own pretty blooms. One of the perks of decorating in spring is the abundance of fresh flowers, but allergies and expense can be prohibitive. By crafting your flowers, you save yourself the spending, sneezing, and wilting of real ones. There are tons of great paper and fabric tutorials out there, but these unique Q-Tip flowers are easy to make .
You’ll need :
.small Styrofoam balls (one per flower),
.lots of Q-tips,
.food coloring,
.and the plastic stems of artificial flowers.
I have owned this cash register for several decades now, of which I rescued from a fire damaged pharmacy on New York's Lower East Side around 1995. (At that time, one of the owners of the pharmacy chain I was working for (Thriftway Pharmacy) had a side business of buying out sundries & merchandise from bankrupt and smoke/water damaged retail stores at substantially cut prices, and reselling them at nominal prices thereby substantially increasing the profit margin.
In the process of clearing out one such place, I happened upon this cash register lying on its side under the pharmacy shelves in about 2 inches of murky water.
To be quite honest, it almost was not rescued, as my transportation that day was my bosses brand new Mercedes 500SEL, and as you can imagine he was extremely reluctant in allowing some dripping, sooty monstrosity in his new car. He wouldn't even allow it in the trunk. I managed to convince him to allow me to take it but only after I wrapped it in three contractor bags and agreed to hold it in my lap for the hour long ride home.
Upon my getting it home, I immediately proceeded to clean it up. I took note that one of the glass panels were broken (the customer side) and the top glass completely gone. The NO SALE flag was also missing. I had my local glazier cut me replacement glass and I installed it, but not before I made a crude NO SALE flag out of cardboard and a Qtip..
The dealer markings reflect that this machine was sold by:
Bronx Cash Register
341 East 149 Street,
Bronx, NY
established 1912,
MOtt Haven 9-5888
As it turned out Bronx Cash Register was still in business and I contacted them but they could not offer information, sales records or parts.
It operates fairly smoothly, then out of the blue, the keys will jam. I learned the mechanism pretty well from my cleaning, so I pretty much know how to unjam it without too much effort. Upon my examination I discovered that someone very crudely tried to repair the dollar position advance wheel and cam on the days tally wheel.
The tally advance up to 99 cents but does not advance the to the next dollar. I loosened up the set screw and pushed it off to the side, disabling the dollar advance.
After getting it all cleaned and lubricated I put some circa 1928 currency and older silver coinage in it. And it sat on my desk in my room for years. My father enjoyed its presence as he also had an National cash register (see other album), but his is a much younger Model 1098 that came from a toy store "Waldell's Hobbies on Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn) that bought out. (Model 1098 - s/n 2726474). I think is can be a safe conclusion that my affection for cash registers came from him!
After the internet makes its way into my life, I was able to determine it is a 300 series.
I subsequently move upstate and continued displaying it and has been a focal point of my furnishings.
Recently, events in my life have seen me relocate to Texas and of course, the register came with me. Space is a little more at a premium, so it was in storage. So for a rainy day project today, I decided to get the register out of storage and clean it up. Also, the keys got jammed again when a friend tried to operate it.
So, I took the case apart, vacuumed and blew down the innards with an air nozzle, and got the mechanism to release. Somehow that welded cam wheel slipped back to its original place in moving.
I lubricated all moving parts with a liberal application of PB Blaster and wipe down. Upon reassembly, and as I now had the advantage of the internet as a resource for parts and information, I decided to do a little research
After finding a lot of 300 series in brass, I found none painted. This made me slightly suspicious. Mine is clearly black wrinkle finish paint. Honestly, it appears quite well done, with all parts inside & out evenly coated. I couldn't help but feel it was a factory paint. I searched eBay, and the web, but alas couldn't not find a painted model.
I learned where the model number should be, but on first exam, it was not present on my machine and my tag area appeared blank. But, after a closer exam, there were in fact screws holding down a plate, so after quick work with a screwdriver, I realized the model s/n tag had been screwed on to the machine face down and painted over! This must have been done before I owned it as I would not have done such a thing..
This would now lead me to believe the machine has been painted after original purchase and now perhaps not original as I once thought.
Once I turned the tag over, I learned it was a Model 312, with s/n 1283677. (Made after 6/6/1913 if I understand the data records correctly). I also took the cash drawer out and read the guarantee label affixed to the bottom:
Register Number 2388283
Size 711
Finish Mah
Tracer (blank)
Customer (blank)
Not listed on the label but confirmed from collector websites is the ornate pattern on the case is "Dolphin" and was designed by none other the Tiffany.
So now my questions. Internet references reflect the following versions of the Model 312:
( A ) Bronze, oxidized and relieved
This cabinet was a solid bronze casting that was dipped in a black oxide chemical, which turned the cabinet black. The flat edges and the high points of the casting were polished, leaving the black in the low areas and highly shined bronze edging. It was then lacquered to maintain the finish.
( B ) Nickel plated*
This cabinet is usually a solid yellow brass (or sometimes cast iron)* casting that was nickel plated. The drawer front was generally solid nickel because the nickel plating would easily wear off when closing the drawer. Yellow brass is made from copper, zinc and tin. Bronze is copper and tin. Both copper and tin are expensive, so the zinc makes it a lot cheaper to make and was used for most plated machines. Often if they didn't have all of the parts in brass, they would use a bronze part. After many years of wear, the nickel becomes worn off in spots. If you remove all of the nickel, you often find 3 colors, red bronze, yellow brass and solid nickel. This machine will have to be re-plated? Highly polished and lacquered.
( C ) Bronze, natural color.
This cabinet was solid bronze castings. Highly polished and lacquered.
( D ) Oxidized copper and relieved*
This machine is usually made with yellow brass (or cast iron)* casting which were copper plated. The copper was thicker than nickel and would not wear off, so the drawer front was also copper plated brass. It was dipped in the black oxide chemical and the edges and high points of the pattern were highly polished, leaving bright copper edging with the lower areas black. Also lacquered.
( E ) Yellow brass, Natural color
This machine was solid brass castings that were highly polished and lacquered.
( En ) Black enamel, ornamented. (Class 100 only)
This machine is solid yellow castings that were dipped in black oxide and the edges and high points highly polished leaving the black in the low areas. Also lacquered.
Wood Cabinets
Some of the early machines were offered in a solid wood cabinet. These cabinets were made from Oak, Quarter Sawn Oak, Birch, Mahogany, Black Walnut and many other expense woods. They had burled veneer and fancy inlayed patterns of different wood veneers. These were often accented with brass and nickel inlays, as well as nickel plated drawer pull and other hardware.
Many inlay patterns were named such as: The Shell Pattern,Lilly of the Valley, Tulip Pattern, and the Persimmon pattern.
Clearly, my machine is NOT any of the above. It is NOT an early machine (those being 1800's), but my drawer is marked for Mah (Mahogany) and it's obvious there is no wooden cabinet. Was the current drawer a replacement?
What does an original Model 312 in Mah finish look like?Does that mean a brown paint? This machine is clearly black wrinkle finish and the only wood is the base, which is painted black as well.
I looked at some of the locations where the paint was chipped and the underlying metal does appear to be polished nickel. Therefore, would the paint be original from National or is this a customer applied paint job?
Hours of research on the web does not turn up painted examples of a 312. Also the case is mostly not magnetic, however in some areas this is a weak pull, but I'm concluding the magnet is attracted to the cast iron internal frames.
If the black wrinkle finish is not original, whether to leave the machine as is or strip the finish is to be decided. I wish to make it clear, I know this decision is up to my preference, but I also wish to make it clear the machine is more of sentimental value than monetary value, so a restoration to original condition for eventual resale or to increase in value is not my intent as I have no plans to sell it..
The denomination keys "buttons": I looked at the vintage catalog, and it shows white numerals on black for all keys except NO SALE which is black on orange. My register however has:
- black numerals on white for the 10 cent denominations (10, 20, 30, 40, 50);
- white numerals on red for the cent denominations (1 through 9 EXCEPT the 5 which is black on white).
- black on orange for NO SALE.
I know that the 5 button on adding machines, calculators and other registers almost always contrasted for easy recognition so this I figure is original, and as dad's model 1098 is the same way.
I would like to replace the NO SALE flag with an original. An unrestored one to match the other flags would be preferred. As the NO SALE flag appears to be in the same position on all the 300 models (far right for the clerk - far left for the customer), I would conclude all the 300 series NO SALE flags are compatible.
The drawer front is clearly smooth painted metal. All the images I've encountered show the cast National drawer front. Is mine missing or was there / this a "budget" model 312 omitted some of the ornamentation or perhaps there was a wood front in Mahogany?
On the right side of the keyboard, the numerals 5145 are stamped into the front edge. This number is also stamped on the inside of the back metal case. It does not match the warranty registration or the serial number.
So many questions abound. If you have answers, please feel free to contact me at bedt14@aol.com