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An opportunity to shamelessly mention "Flora & the Prince", the brand new oratorio I've been writing for Dundee University, and which will be premiered in Dundee on 12th March! The first performance of the complete new piece will be recorded.
Saw this at a local garden on a visit with my son. It is an HDR image, and then crossed processed on Picnik.
Here was my process for the Ty Nant water shot:
1. One strobe above and in front of the bottle, bounced off my umbrella. This looks terrible! The blue is hardly noticeable, the reflection totally knocks out the label, and the label on the back of the bottle (marked with the *) makes a horrible white mark.
2. One light on the right of the bottle, bounced off the umbrella. I also cut out a piece of paper the shape of the bottle to put behind it. This bounces light through the glass, showing the blue. Unfortunately, you can see all the details of the umbrella in the reflection, and that label on the back is still there. also, the flash from my camera that I use to trigger the strobe makes an annoying reflection (marked with the *). I soak off the label, and cover my flash with a piece of cloth. That way it is still bright enough to trigger the strobe, but doesn't show up on the bottle.
3. Light below and behind the bottle, bounced off the black (!) backdrop. I removed the white paper behind the bottle for this, since it was unnecessary. I used a long exposure so that the lights from the windows on the sides and in front of the bottle would light up the label. Unfortunately, this makes for ugly reflections on the sides of the bottle.
4. One light behind and below bottle, bounced off backdrop. This is beautiful -- I love black-line glass photography, and the blue is gorgeous. Unfortunately for a product shot, the label is way too dark. And I don't have another light to snoot on it from the front. Have to go a different direction.
5. Light on the right side again, this time shone directly through a large plastic tub. That disperses the light enough that it makes a nice clean long white highlight. The paper is behind the bottle again, and I dropped the coins behind the bottle. But the paper behind the bottle is wrinkled, and that shows (marked with the *) and it tapers at the top of the neck where the water stops, which you can see. I cut a new piece of paper.
sometimes i wish i could snap my finger then tadaaaa things are in front of me shortly. But nothing just happen. Just like Amerie says, "Sometimes you gotta work hard for it".
Shotdate: 27-2-2014
Camera: Nikon D3x
Optics: Celestron 9.25" EdgeHD
Guiding: LVI SmartGuider 2 on F500mm f90mm APO
ISO-speed: 3200
Exposure: 225 x 60 seconds
Darks: 100
Flats: 21
Bias: 130
Stacked in DeepSkyStacker and post-processing in PixInsight
More experiments with Truchet tiling (and tweaking my flood fill code). In this one, the choice of tile at each location is not strictly random; the options chosen from are determined by the location.
This performance was made after the opening of my current exhibition at the Lars Bolin gallery in Östersund, after hours with only the gallerist and photographer as participants / spectators.
photos: www.jimmydahlberg.se
"everything is knot a torus"
(tho, not all of these qualify as knots, unknots included as well. so, clearly: not everything is knot a torus)
1. Image out of camera, 1/4 sec at f/1.8, WB 2700K.
2. White balance adjusted in UFRaw (Linux).
3. Red and Blue channels inverted in CS5 (channel mixer).
Image taken with unmodified Nikon D300s using Nikkor 35mm f/1.8G lens and Hoya R72 IR filter. In camera WB was 2700K, exp. 1/4 sec at f/1.8... ISO 800 Exp. Bias +5.
Image was moved to Linux for White balance and tint adjustment in UFRaw with GIMP. This is roughly the equivalent of Halogen correction.
Then moved to W7 for CS5 channel mixer, where red and blue channels were swapped for a more natural look. In Channel mixer, red channel, change red +100 to -100, green from 0 to +100 and blue from 0 to +100. Blue channel, change red from 0 to +100, green from 0 to +100, and blue from +100 to -100.
today i painted my first pregnant model for the body painting series inside T.Ruth Artspace gallery( www.truthartspace.com ) portland oregon
Model: Michelle Davis
blogged here: lucidrose.blogspot.com/2010/04/mother-goddess-body-painti...
I've made these charts because I couldn't find any reliable information on how to expose a film for this "reverse xpro". From these results, I like something between -1 and 0 best - it may however be different with other films.
starting to work on a series of stools based on our xylem system
first step, turn our 2d line based applet into 3d mesh. status: in process, threshold/smoothing issues
Image transfer on watercolor paper done using Citrasolv cleaner. It's very addictive making these little transfers.
Tutorial: www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Nedq-m7KO0
For 52 Weeks of 2014
Week #2 Square and Processing
Examples of different processing results. Depending on your experience, these can be done manually or with reset actions in image processing software (I use Photoshop).
(top left) Cross processing uses layers, contrast and variations in color balance to give a "yellowish green" hue to the image. You can do it manually, but Photoshop has an action (macro) that is simple and quick. I've used it on anything from landscapes to portraits in the past.
(bottom left) High Dynamic Range was processed using Photomatrix, a popular and proven application available online. Some cameras have in-built HDR options. Again, it can be used on a wide range of images and the intensity can be dialed up or down. Some HDR images are quite stunning but processing can also be over cooked (an HDR term!). Flickr is full with different results and it's up to personal taste what you prefer.
(top right) Black and white/Mono can be achieved by using fast and easy single click "GreyScale" or you can manipulate the histogram to isolate color bands and keep tighter control over the result. Curves can be also applied to control contrast.
(bottom right) Orton processing is a controlled blurring or softening of the image achieved by combining 3 layers in Photoshop. Again, it comes to personal taste to apply Orton to images. It can be applied over the whole image or used to soften different areas.
Enjoy...and good luck with your processing.