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Started to try the DRI-Technique to improve some RAW Shots that seemed to be over or under exposed - This is the first result.
I am fascinated about this technique.
Check it out here: www.picturecorrect.com/photographytips/208/increase_high_...
Here's a little flashback to the Long Beach Grand Prix. I've been attending it for at least the past 10 or 12 years if not more. Its this month again, but not sure if I will go. So here's on from a few years ago.
If you're going, don't forget about the LBGP Friday Free tickets and discounts. I never paid full price when I go.
If you're a photographer and want to shoot the event, here's an article on a photographer's inside tips on the Grand Prix
I went out for some location shooting earlier today, and had a blast. I put some miles on the Rogue Stacking Honeycomb Grid, and Rogue FlashBenders along with my LumoPro LP160 Manual Flash.
Some great tools that did not let me down!
For this shot above I used my Rogue FlashBender on the LumoPro LP160 to camera right, and feathered the light toward the model.
Camera - Nikon D300
Lens - Sigma 28-70mm f/2.8
Exposure - 1/100 @ f/5.6
Focal Length - 28mm
Lighting - LumoPro LP160
Light Modifier(s) - Rogue FlashBender
Trigger - Cactus V5
Hi everyone, this is my second article about macro photography! blog.alexgreenshpun.com/post/99401451609/macro-photograph...
* Have you always wanted to try macro photography yourself but never knew where to begin?
* Or, perhaps, you feel a bit rusty and need some inspiration to move you forward?
Well, this article is for you guys! Click here to read, and please remember to like and share if you found it helpful!
We're Here! : Quick Photography Tips
Running out of ideas for your 365 project? Join We're Here!
Strobist: AB1600 with gridded 60X30 softbox overhead in foreground. AB800 with gridded 60X30 softbox in background camera left. Triggered by Cybersync.
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Yes, I know, they all look the same!!!! But look closer/read on and they are in fact all different, and all the same!!!!.......................
I thought I would do something a bit different and start sharing a few basic photography tips, which will hopefully be of use to someone. I aim to keep things simple and concise in subsequent uploads but I need to ramble on a little bit here to set the scene. No doubt some of you will know all of this already, but I'm willing to bet there are also plenty who don't. Including those with high-end equipment who don't know how to use it!! :-))
A brief introduction
Every photograph has an exposure value (EV) which is dependent on three things: Aperture, shutter speed and ISO sensitivity; often referred to as the exposure triangle. In fully automatic mode a camera will choose the most "suitable" values for each variable for a given scene and calculate the "correct EV" accordingly.
With DSLR and bridge cameras the user can have direct control over aperture and shutter speeds but this is rarely the case with compact "point and shoot cameras". However, these usually allow the user to adjust the ISO sensitivity so ISO seems like a good place to start. And to keep it very simple I am only going to look at ISO here.
What is ISO sensitivity?
ISO is a measure of how sensitive the camera sensor is to light. The higher the ISO, the more sensitive it will be. OK, but what does that actually mean in practice? Put simply, when the ISO is increased the shutter speed must also be increased (faster) so the final image still looks the same. Camera manufacturers and retailers will often draw attention to how high the ISO will go, and how great a camera is in low light conditions. "Get sharp images even in low light" etc. Faster shutter means less camera shake.
So that's it then, we just crank up the ISO and hope for the best? Or is there more of a pattern to it? Yes, there is a pattern and it's incredibly simple. The images above reveal the pattern!....................
All eight images were shot in Aperture Priority mode (camera calculates shutter speed), with aperture fixed at f/8. Lighting was from a lamp to ensure a constant light source. The only thing which was manually changed each time was the ISO. But the resulting images all look virtually the same. As can be seen above, when the ISO is doubled from 100 to 200, the shutter speed also doubles from 1/5 seconds to 1/10 seconds. That is, the shutter is twice as fast. "But 1/10 is half of 1/5, not twice!" I hear you cry. Hmmm, yes, we are dealing with fractions. Put another way, at 1/10 seconds, the shutter is only open for half as long as at 1/5 seconds. i.e the speed doubles. Or from ISO 1600 to 3200, the shutter speed doubles from 1/80 to 1/160.
The key point here is: DOUBLE ISO = DOUBLE SHUTTER SPEED
A good analogy to this relationship between ISO and shutter speed is to think of worker bees gathering nectar. Assume all the bees work at the same rate; If 100 bees can collect 1kg of nectar between them in an hour, then 200 bees can get the job done twice as quickly. They can collect 1kg in half an hour! I've no idea if the numbers are realistic, but that's not the point!! :-))
How much salt do you want to come out of the pot? For a small amount set the lid to the sprinkler setting. For a bit more, either sprinkle for longer or save yourself time and move it round to the wider hole. Or throw caution to the wind, remove the lid completely and start pouring.............!! :-D
How much light do you want to enter the camera lens and hit the sensor? Similarly, a small hole will only let a small amount of light through, whereas a bigger hole will let much more light in during a given period of time. DSLR cameras (and bridge cameras to some extent), allow the user to adjust the size of the lens aperture.
Previously I showed that when ISO is doubled, the shutter speed must also be doubled to ensure the final image would look the same. That's if the aperture remains the same each time.
So what happens if the size (the area) of the aperture is doubled whilst the ISO is kept constant? It's very similar. Twice as much light can enter through, so again, the shutter speed must be doubled. Suppose we take a photo where the shutter is open for 1 second. Now we double the area of the aperture and take it again. This time the shutter needs to be open for only ½ second.
I've not provided any example images taken at different apertures because for now, I wanted to stay away from using any numbers. But apertures do have numbers associated with them. Here's a list of some common aperture settings:
f/1, f/1,4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22
But where do these numbers come from? Next time I hope to explain.............................................................
Nikon D700, Sigma 24mm f/1.8 macro
©Vlad Nevynny
World Class Fine Art Photography from Vlad + Aileen.
Taken with Nikon D700, Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D in Kamyanets-Podilsky, Ukraine.
Settings used - f/9, 1/60sec, ISO640.
This time I'd like to share an insight into what decisions photographer(me) was making in the process of taking this photo.
First of all, nothing replaces "being at the right place at the right time", so knowing what time the sun sets and where it sets is important - both of which change throughout the year.
COMPOSITION.
I wanted to include the sun in the frame, but in doing so I didn't want it to overpower the composition by burning a huge hole of overexposure and potentially ruining my eyes and my camera's sensor. One way of doing it is to block sun by something(like tree brunches etc), another - like in this case, I waited until only the last bit of it was above the horizon and then pressed the shutter.
I wanted to show a lot of the leaves, which look gorgeous in the fall season, so I adopted low angle with a lot of foreground. The position of the castle and the sun in the background relative to the three groups of trees in the foreground dictated the composition, by moving around a few feet left and right, back and forth I felt I found the spot which placed all the elements into some sort of system.
Knowing that the leaves always look the best when backlit, what is better time to backlit the leaves on the ground other then sunset or sunrise, when sun is low and shines parallel to the ground? Check the previous photo in this stream for an example of leaves in flat light - no glow there...
EXPOSURE SETTINGS.
In choosing my exposure settings(f/9, 1/60sec, ISO640) I had to find compromise between the large DOF, sharpness and low grain(noise). I needed large depth of field since as in any landscape photo you need all the elements in focus, from the leaf 1.5 meters from the camera to the fortress 0.5 km away. I didn't have the tripod, so as an old rule suggests i was limited with my shutter speed to 1/focal length of my lens. So with 50mm lens I had on it is 1/50sec. Also I didn't want to go too high with my ISO, to keep the digital noise away.
With sun setting fast, you only have about a minute or less to make these decisions, so with f/9, 1/60sec, ISO640 i feel I did pretty good. With regards to aperture choice, I guess there was a bit more room to close it more, but 50mm f/1.4(not the obvious choice for landscape photos, i know:)) is a fast lens, so the diffraction sets in earlier(f/8?) reducing overall sharpness.
©Vlad Nevynny
World Class Fine Art Photography from Vlad + Aileen.
Photography workshops in metro Manila!
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Today’s Photo: The Dark Lighthouse
This photo makes me want to get back to Iceland as soon as possible. The plan for my next trip is to turn up there for a longer period of time with a tent and not much of a plan. I want to wander, go to where the good light is and wait for the good light in places that deserve it. There seems to be campsites everywhere in Iceland so finding somewhere to crash should be easy as plugging campsite into the satnav.
This shot is from my first night in Iceland. After arriving at midnight, I...
The Technical Bits
Camera: Canon 5d Mk II
Lens: EF24-70mm f/2.8L USM
ISO: 100
Exposure: 1.6, 6, and 25 at f/18
Taking the Photo: I wandered the beach searching for a good foreground for this shot. The rocks looked promising and...
Processing: This is one of those photos that I’ve tried to process numerous times but ...
Click here for more on this shot at the Traverse Earth blog.
If you're interested in my HDR techniques, visit my FREE HDR TUTORIAL.
Tel Aviv Street Photography - COPYRIGHTED - Photodel 2017
Vehicles moving on a public highway. Vehicles moving on a public highway. Vehicles moving on a public highway..... Movement !
Tel Aviv Street Photography - COPYRIGHTED - Photodel 2017
This one I took in the rain, it had literally just stopped, after a 15 minute downpoor. The blue light on the left made me stop and really made this picture. Lots of blue and red lights in Tel aviv !