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“In a person’s lifetime there may be not more than half a dozen occasions that he can look back to in the certain knowledge that right then, at that moment, there was room for nothing but happiness in his heart.” - Ernestine Gilbreth Carey
The ancient Thai capital of Sukhothai (translated means “dawn of happiness”) was the first capital of Siam founded by King Ramkhamhaeng during the 13th Century. The province's temples and monuments have been restored and is now the Sukhothai Historical Park and has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Wat Sra Sri is a beautiful wat located on an island surrounded by a pond. Just entering the wat is a beautiful experience, as you have to cross a bridge in anticipation to the immense beauty. On the island you will see a Sri Lankan-style mounded chedi and walking Buddha in Sukhothai style.
I had only one day in Sukhothai and I was hoping for an amazing sunset. It never did materialize, but one thing I learned from traveling this great, big world of ours is to be appreciative of the things we have in our lives and not to dwell on the things we do not have.
I took this shot about ten minutes after sunset (the blue hour) and after taking a couple of frames, I stepped out from behind the camera to just simply appreciate this magnificent structure with my naked eyes. It was then I realized there was not another soul around and I was simply filled with nothing but happiness in my heart.
Happy Travels!
One more photo in the comment section.
All Rights Reserved. Photos and Text ©Sam Antonio Photography 2012
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Summer is perhaps best known for heat and when the heat is great, it is most comfortable to be in an air-conditioned building or ... to be wet. The latter sounds more fun to me, but ... water and electronic camera gear are at odds with each other. Unless you have a waterproof housing for that gear.
While the high end dedicated rigid housings are very nice and may produce better image quality, a PVC underwater housing such as those made by EWA-Marine (www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Ewa-Marine-U-B-100-Un...) are far more affordable while still allowing unique photo opportunities.
In this photo, I was standing near the side of the pool with camera ready. Because capturing the perfect position of a normally thrown tennis ball is very challenging, I opted for a toss-straight-up technique. The dog wanted the ball, but didn't want to jump into the water to get it. I tossed the ball straight up so that it stopped moving at the ideal height and just far enough out so the dog couldn't reach it. The latter part mattered because it was game-over when the dog caught the ball and ran away with her prize.
Make this the summer that you waterproof your camera. Add wet shots to your portfolio. Capture the fun memories of the summer water activities. Get an underwater housing.
Read also: Underwater Photography Tips for Snorkeling.
Gear Used:
Canon EOS 1D X
Canon EF 16-35mm f/4L IS USM Lens
Ewa-Marine U-B 100 Underwater Housing
Camera and Lens Settings:
22mm f/6.3 1/1250s, ISO 400, 5184 x 3456px
#Canon #EOS #1DX #EWA-Marine #UnderwaterHousing #WideAngle #Outdoor #Water #Wet #Pool #SwimmingPool #Flowers #Clouds #BlueSky #Rock #Dog #WetDog #GoldenRetriever #Pet #Ball #YellowBall #TennisBall #Summer #Photo #Photography #PhotoTips #PhotographyTips
Roksana Begum from Birol is taking shower in a river of Dinajpur
500px.com/photo/110154469/woman-in-red-by-jubair-bin-iqba...
Tel Aviv Street Photography - COPYRIGHTED - Photodel 2017
A very cheeky late night munch. This might be accompanied in the a.m with a big big of food regret. I always assumed street food stalls were a bit dodgy or even unhealthy. I was hungry but i did convince myselves that i wasnt buying anything here. This lone person picking up a £5 bag of fries..... not for me ! I walked on
Nice Jessica :D
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In the words of +Frank Doorhof, "If you think you need two lights, try it with one. If you think you need three lights, try it with one. If you think you need four lights, go back to the drawing board." Learn more in his book, Mastering the Model Shoot: kel.by/1tlaOHP. #KelbyOneBooks +KelbyOne +Peachpit #Lighting #Photography +PhotographyTips
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Frank Doorhof (goo.gl/LSFOVN) via Jessica Maldonado (goo.gl/xnC8fS)
Hair fashion Photoshoot In Chicago - On set tips - Lights- Chicago sight seeing - Airport adventures and more - A BABAK 's Shoot Log
Full Video Blog on Youtube >
www.youtube.com/watch?v=77A8XAxiM6I
Film Music © BABAK 2015
While photographing Kayakers at Great Falls Park in Virginia, i took two shots using my Canon 100-400mm L lens attached to a Canon 1.4x III extender attached to a Canon 5D Mark II. I love zoom lenses and this was one is pure awesome. When shooting so far away the zoom really comes in handy to put your subject in perspective.
If you plan on using the 1.4x III extender on this lens i suggest you lower your expectations. Auto focus does NOT work unless you do the "Tape trick" which you tape 3 pins on the lens that attaches to the body, which tricks the camera into thinking there is not extender on and you can use the center focus only.
You HAVE to use this setup on sunny days. The photo above was pushing it, late in the day, but i was able to auto focus with that light. Auto focus is SLOW and very annoying. It may take 5 to 10 seconds to lock on, so if you are doing wildlife it can easily make you miss shots.. with that being said i was able to get some awesome action shots and wildlife shots with the extender and tape trick. For example, you can see below a Great Blue Heron fishing while a Cormorant drifts by. In great light you will be able to focus quickly, only noticing a slight delay.
So with the 1.4x extender on my full frame body and the 100-400mm, that gives me 140-560mm. It is long enough to hand held without too much lose of quality. If you were shooting on a cropped camera like a 7D or my back up, a 40D, i have seen people report problems with the photos being blurry while hand held. You want to get a 500mm lens? Good luck, those things are HUGE, heavy and super expensive. a 500mm F4 is $7000. Nikon's is over $8000. You can get a Sigma 50-500mm for around $1500 ( a little more than the 100-400 at $1650) but i did some research and the Canon out performs the Sigma. They have to make it appear better by giving you the added 50-100mm and 401-500mm, but really, it's not better. Sure the 50mm is nice, but the 500mm vs 400mm shots at the lowest f stop do not compare.
Another option is getting the canon 70-200mm f/2.8 and using a 2x extender or a 1.4x extender. I thought this would be the best way to go because of the versatility of having a 70-200mm, a 98-280mm and a 140-400mm lens, but you lose quality with the extenders. Test shots show that straight up the canon 100-400mm is the boss on the "lower end" professional lens. Please, if you know a better lens let me know.
And a little extra, i was doing some googling the other day and found this future canon lens. My pants are wet!
www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-200-400mm-f-...
a 200-400mm zoom lens with a BUILT in 1.4x extender... how incredible is that. That lens should be super expensive though, some think it will be over $8000.
Photo Notes:
Shot from the first overlook on the Virginia side of Great Falls National Park, standing at the highest point closest to the railing.
ISO 640
f/ 8.0
1/200sec
around 6:45pm
Hand held
Future comparison shots with and without the extender and testing sharpness.
Link to the tape trick:
'DRP' Before / After
I photographed this alien looking iron ore processing plant in the early morning hours. While rushing to capture the scene before the sun got too high, I made a slight error with framing and ended up cutting off the top two exhaust pipes. Unfortunately, I only realized the mistake when I got back in the studio.
I -REALLY- liked the weirdness and complexity of this crazy looking plant which made this photograph so special. I thought it had the potential of being a great image but the trimmed top really bugged me. I was determined to save the shot, no matter what.
I started by extending the image on top and recreating the missing blue sky. Then I re-built the chopped-off exhaust pipes by sampling the neighbouring ones. Basically, a post-processing task turned into a full-on digital paint job which took about an hour until I was happy with the result.
Once the missing top of the image was re-created, it was time to do something extra on this image.
I converted it into BW image with Silver Efex Pro plugin and gave it a slight Selenium tint. BW conversion made the blue sky very dark, nearly black, and that made the exhaust pipes on top of the image to blend with the background. To rectify this, I decided to create a streak of bright, motion-blurred clouds and placed them just where I thought they were needed to separate the metal structure from the background.
Last step involved bringing out some extra details from the steel tubes with Viveza 2 and final grading with Color Efex Pro. I also added two workers to help appreciate the scale of this installation.
I thought I would try and kill two birds with one stone here, to show how aperture affects both shutter speed and depth of field (DOF)
The key point here is:
Small f number = wide aperture, faster shutter speed and shallow DOF (blurry background)
Large f number = narrow aperture, slower shutter speed & deeper DOF
Here's the f/number scale again (whole stops)
f/1, f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22, f/32, etc, etc
If you want to know where the f numbers come from click the link. I won't go into it here!! :-)
www.flickr.com/photos/jonnyhirons/8784024097/
At f/2.8 the area of the aperture opening is half the size of f/2, f/4 is only half the size of f/2.8 and so on. At half the size, half as much light enters the lens and hits the sensor, so the camera shutter must be left open for twice as long to ensure the final image looks the same. The graphic above is similar to the one I did for ISO, but this time ISO was kept constant and only aperture was changed. At f/2 the shutter speed is 1/8s, at f/2.8 the exposure time doubles to 1/4s. f/4 is twice as long again at 1/2s and so on.
In terms of brightness the images above look the same but at wider apertures teddy is out of focus. At f/2, the DOF is so shallow that the straws in the glasses are barely in focus, whereas at f/22 everything, including teddy is in focus! :-)
All the images were taken with a fixed 50mm lens. I should probably point out however, that focal length and the distance between camera & subject also affect depth of field, but that's for another time!!
Festivals are a goldmine for photographers. The vibrant atmosphere, diverse subjects, and dynamic movements make every shot unique.
Pro Tip: Use a fast shutter speed to freeze the action and capture the expressions of the performers and the crowd. This will add a sense of motion and excitement to your photos.
📷 Ready to shoot your next festival? Share your best shots with us!
#FestivalPhotography #CaptureTheMoment #PhotographyTips #FestivalLife #MoscowPhotographer
Ever wonder why your food photography does not look as nice as those in the magazines? Well, there could be a number of reasons, but Food Styling is what that most photographers are missing. In this post I’ll lay out some tips and tricks to make your food look it’s very best for your next photo shoot with food.
[read more...]
DRP Tower, Before / After
The shoot:
This scene was love at first sight. What's not to love? Giant, huffing and puffing, menacing looking structure of Godzillish proportions, set against a dramatic, painterly sunrise? A single exposure wasn't going to cut it. There was simply too much contrast to see those amazing clouds and the mist surrounding the tower, even though the sun hadn't risen yet.
I quickly decided to go for 7 bracketed exposures from -3EV through +3EV, just to be safe. I used Canon TS-E 17mm tilt shift lens. There was no way to stand any further from the tower and even though the lens was shifted all the way up, I still couldn't catch the top of the tower without tilting the camera slightly upwards. I had no choice but to correct the slightly converging verticals in post.
Post-processing:
7 exposures were pre-processed in Lightroom with very minor tweaks. I removed chromatic aberrations, added a bit of sharpening and removed the image noise. There's no camera lens profile for the Canon TS-E 17mm due to its complex distortion which varies depending on the amount of tilting as well as shifting...but that isn't a problem as the lens is optically near perfect. Barrel distortion and vignette are too small to notice with the naked eye. I corrected vertical convergence with manual lens correction tool. That only took a few seconds.
I exported 16-bit TIFF files and imported them into Oloneo PhotoEngine Pro. This is where I created a tonemapped image with a natural look.
HDR image was exported yet again as a 16-bit TIFF file and imported into Photoshop.
Under closer examination, I realized I had a TON of dust spots all over the image because the steel factory isn't a very camera friendly environment; air is saturated with tiny dust particles. Each time I swapped the lens, I got some of that dust onto the sensor and there was no way of avoiding this menace. It took me about 20 minutes to remove all dust spots and then, the real work began.
I really wanted to make something special with the clouds in the background. I was going for Graphic Novel look with desaturated, high contrasting textures and tones. I was going for drama.
To start off, I needed a clean mask which would separate the background from the foreground. I couldn't simply select the sky by picking its range of colours because the grey/brown tones were too close to the tones of the steel. There was no shortcut. I had to do it the hard way, by using Lasso and Magic Wand tools. Picking and isolating the sky between the narrow gaps of steel tubes and steel grating was particularly tedious. It must've taken me at least an hour before the mask was clean and perfect for selective colour correction.
Once I was done and the colour version of the photograph was complete, I created a duplicate layer and converted it into Black & White image with Silver Efex Pro plug-in. I used the built-in blue filter which darkened all red tones in the image and gave it a hint of Selenium tint (shades of yellow/ cool blue). Final step involved the mixing of the Black & White layer with the underlying colour image. I decided for 30/70 blending ratio (30 Colour/70 B&W) for the final result which I had in mind.
I used Wacom Intuos 3 pressure sensitive tablet to paint luminance and selective color-correction masks in Photoshop CS 5. Primary grading was accomplished with Color Efex Pro 4.
Image was captured with Canon 5d Mk2 + Canon TS-E 17mm f4.0L lens. Promote Remote Control was used for exposure bracketing.
Total pre and post-processing time: 2 hours
"Astonishingly Simple Secrets Discovered By Renegade Photographer Transforms Your Smartphone Into A High-Quality DSLR And Captures Jaw-Dropping Gorgeous Photos That Blow Away Your Friends – Guaranteed!"
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Once you know how to use your smartphone as a high-end DSLR, you can use it to capture spectacular shots like these:
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This portrait captures a moment of quiet reflection, thanks to the soft lighting and thoughtful composition. To achieve a similar effect, focus on the subject’s expression and use natural light to enhance the mood.
Pro Tip: Experiment with different angles and lighting to bring out the emotions in your subjects. What are your favorite portrait-taking techniques? Share them with us! 🌅✨
#PortraitPhotography #EmotionalShots #SoftLighting #PhotographyTips #PortraitArt
© Malinda Hartong, 2011. All rights reserved. Manual mode. ev 0.0. f 4.5 at 1/1250. iso 200. 210 mm. flash on, return not detected. Spring Grove digital photo safari. Hartong Digital Media, Spring 2011.Branding Photo Shoot. Professional head shots. Cincinnati photo studio. © Malinda Hartong, 2011. All rights reserved. DSC_3513.tif Hartong Digital Media llc.
Funky wedding photography @ www.timsimpsonphotography.co.uk
www.photographytips.net/photography-backgrounds-paper-bac...
Hope the Flickr world is doing well, its been a while since I've posted here. I'm testing out the waters again, we'll see how it goes.
In the meantime, here's one of our latest posts on Outletphotography, it talks about this photo of model Jeneen and how it was shot with a
pho·tog·ra·pher (noun)
"It could be said that a good photographer is a combination of an artist, craftsman and scientist, since knowledge and skills from all three professions play a part in good photography."
I'd like to add schmoozer, historian, fly-on-the-wall, truth-teller, a-thinker-inside-of-the-vertical-or-horizontal-box, an adventurer...
(feel free to add more comments that descibe what you consider the purpose of a photographer is)
after my initial analysis of the RAW shot, it was instantly apparent what I need to achieve. Stormy sky had a lot of potential but its tone was taking the attention away from my subject, the Statue of Liberty. I had to bring the subject into prominence with a bit of light re-shaping intervention. Sky was too light for my taste, as well as washed out. Statue was too dark while lacking crispness and texture. To fix this, I decided to invert the contrast of the background and foreground. I started by darkening the sky and manipulating light on the statue. I also enhanced the light on the horizon which isolated the subject from the scene even further. A gentle touch of motion blur on the clouds gave the scene a bit of movement. Final touch was adding splashes of light on the 'fabric' folds of the statue, particularly on its face. This gave almost three-dimensional, surreal feel to my subject. During the Black & White conversion, I tweaked certain zones to make sure blacks weren't crushed which normally happens with such low key shots. This turned out better than I had hoped for.