View allAll Photos Tagged Negative
After downloading this I can see that I need more color on the table & maybe darker colors in the negative area.
I didn't draw the flowers by hand & so it was difficult to paint the petals free hand.
I definitely need to keep practicing!!
The image is placed in dangerous chemicals, and it gradually turns from negative to positive.
Get your authentic Civil War-era photography process photo done at Gibson's Photographic Gallery in Gettysburg
this was taken in an museum for photgraphy. It was a huge glass negative which was lightened up from the back. So I took a shot with a black and white film (also negative) and got this positve. The original shot was taken probaply a 100 years ago.
at first glance, the tide to-go pen seems simple enough, but I've seen too many users fail to immediately realize they must actuate the tip of the device into the body to activate the release of the cleaning agent. the extreme actuation is against the design paradigm of pens--lightly press against the surface to release the inner contents (usually ink)--and this pen offers no clue about this required action. the user is left to figure out why it might not work at first, so it is a more conceptual model.
This flickr account was set up to store the negatives I buy at ebay, antique shops, flea markets, etc. I scan or photograph the negatives, process them, and then post them here. I enjoy discovering and revealing these images that otherwise might be lost.
FP4+ (80), Pyrocat HD 1+1+100 12mins 20c, reduced agitation. White balance reset to address blue cast from light table.
Having not used a Kodak 35 in quite a few years, I forgot that the film had to be advanced by pushing down a little button on the top and simultaneously turning the film winding knob. But.... when you do this, the shutter is cocked and it's ready to take another picture. So, even if you bump the shutter accidentally, you're going to take a picture of something. This unexposed fourth frame of the roll was a result of my not remembering that the best way to do this with a Kodak 35 is to not wind the film after taking a shot and only winding it when you're ready to take the next shot. Here, I wound it right after I took the picture of my high school and then drove across town to photograph the grade school. But, in driving across town to my next subject, I forgot I had already wound it, so I ended up winding it again and totally skipping this frame. But, I wanted to detail the whole process, so here is the unexposed frame in all it's glory.
After I'd done it, I realized right away what had happened, so I made sure it didn't happen for the rest of the roll. And it didn't. (Although there was one other tiny thing I forgot to do, which will be described later.)