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Any use of this photo should attribute credit to Ryan McFarland and point a link to www.zieak.com or www.zieak.com/2008/12/28/beefing-up-the-insulation/. Thank you!
Example of an industrial-type boiler breeching with thickly-applied asbestos insulation installed on its interior surfaces. The exterior of the breeching appears as thick, uninsulated sheet metal with a latched access hatch.
This particular asbestos insulation system is on the inside of the breeching and consists of layered materials: blocks pieced together and held in place with small pins covered by "chicken wire" with approx. 1-inch thick trowel-applied refractory mud on outer surface.
Past repair to cracks in the crumbly outer asbestos mud are also visible on walls inside the breeching.
Stripping insulation off the other walls. These walls were added in 1985, and this part of the basement is a little taller. I've also installed the new lighting at this point.
Insulation in the ceiling! For whatever reason, the City & our gas provider consider this insulating the floor--but I consider it insulating the basement ceiling. You say tomato, I say tomato...just stuff the fiberglass into the beams, okay?
Our insulation was recycled, but that one white strip is what was left in the truck from the last job- maybe not recycled?
A several-decades-old attic space lined with asbestos millboard panels throughout, each panel held in place by simple nails. Metal bands are used to secure panels at the ridge structural member. In this particular application the insulation boards also provide sound dampening qualities for active mechanical systems in the attic space.
Armstrong brand cork pipe insulation with a black bituminous outer layer shown inside a vertical utility shaft. The bitumen layer was tested as non-asbestos, but a black asbestos sealant compound was identified along the insulation's seams that connect the sections together.
Simple side-by-side comparison of two large steam pipe valves; one showing appearance with installed asbestos insulation and the other valve shown following abatement of the asbestos insulation materials.
When it is a fine sunny day outside, there is nothing like being inside stuffing insulation into walls.
The blue styrofoam was 13/16 " thick thus too tall to fit between my laminated ribs which were slightly less than 3/4" thick. I used my surface planer to knock down the thickness of the insulation so it stood slightly proud between the ribs. Though the foam seemed easy to plane, I'm not sure how well the planer blades tolerated the foam's components.
I used a table saw to cut the foam into 3 5/8' strips to fit between the ribs. I used spacers when installing the ribs thus my care was rewarded as the foam strips fit without having to fuss with their widths. Some excitement in cutting the foam when the just cut strip was very succeptable to kick back if not controlled properly. Though a feather weight foam strip being expelled from the table saw posed little danger, it instinctly scared the dickens out of me as I ducked for cover.
The foam dust apparently had a static charge on it as the stuff stuck to vertical sufaces. Yup, I wore a respirator but looked like I had a blue snow cone on top of my head.
Before installing the foam, I coated the foredeck interior surfaces with epoxy to provide some moisture protection to the 4mm bottom panels and laminated ribs. I installed the foam into the wet epoxy, put some boards down on the foam and provided weight via limestone blocks. The cured epoxy held the foam tightly, at least in the short term.
Using a long board with 40 grit paper I leveled the foam with the tops of the ribs. The foam gives one a useful perspective of rib height and I found one rib that was standing proud probably from a wood scrap under it when epoxied in place. Epoxy was applied to the underside of the 6mm top plywood panels for moisture protection and perhaps some adherence to the foam thus meeting a requirement of "sandwich" construction in that the core is attached to both skins. Since the foredeck has ribs running throughout it thus a torsion box, it is academic whether the core is firmly attached to the inner and outer skins but it is always fun to find something else to postulate over.
The second of the two 1" wide ribs at the mid length location of the foredeck was necessary to correct an error I made in locating a rib (in relationship to the rib for the butt joint) at the point that the foredeck rests on the mahogany beam. Before correcting this error, I couldn't space the 1" wide ribs consistently to provide the mounting points for the decorative maghogany strips that will be installed on the interior of the foredeck. When I butt up the 6mm top panels, I will use the second rib for the mounting point thus make me feel that my measuring error provided a real or imagined strength benefit as the butt joints are now staggered over two ribs. However, the seam for the butt joint will now need to be glassed and faired. More weight and work as a consequence of my error. Perhaps I should just cover the bottom sheet's butt joint with the prescribed mahogany strip and live with a modest spacing error between two strips. Not sure if this paragraph makes sense but I lack the ability to explain it clearer.
In conclusion, the rib and decorative covering mahogany strip occurring at the plywood butt joint are the center of the universe when laying out the ribs . I got fixated on the rib occurring at the 1 3/4" wide main mahogany beam which led to getting the 1" rib locations out of sorts in regards to a dead on spacing between the decorative mahogany strips.
Though the plans prescribed 3" wide laminated plywood for the landing spot for the windshield, I made them 4' wide to give me wiggle room in response to my proclivity for foredeck measurement errors. Once the windshield is located, I can trim back back any excess on the port side plywood. Tom's plans specify how much the outer windshield frames sweep back from the center window thus how to position the port and starboard windshield landing spots. Much pondering on rib installation on the starboard side where it meets the bulkhead that will support the steering station. Not that difficult an issue but some thinking ahead required on how the steering wheel box and side decks attach to the aft end of the foredeck. Too early to declare victory but I believe I got it right.
*Edit 5/7/2012: The rib that is just aft of the windshield blocking appears to be unnecessary. The foredeck will be trimmed back to the windshield frame on the port and the middle sections.
*Edit 1/3/2013: I screwed up installing the plywood backing for the port and starboard windshield frame landing points. The pictured plywood for these frames sweep back about 145 degrees from the awartship plywood backing for the center windshield. Too severe an angle which should have been about 164 degrees.
Foam insulation is one of the many potential sources of microplastics in indoor spaces. © D. Malmquist/VIMS.
This Saturday Jim and I decided to call it "quits" early. The wooden deck isn't finished yet and the insulation above us needs to be covered. I took this shot randomly and achieved an unexpected result. Didn't even need to crop it; just tweaked the colors in Picasa.
Hope you all have a great weekend!
Blogged here: henningthomsen.wordpress.com/2009/02/13/green-makeover-fo...
Vermiculite insulation and urea-formaldehyde foam insulation (UFFI) possess properties whose histories cause many to consider them hazardous materials. Some homeowners are familiar with the controversy surrounding these types of insulation, however many are not. Below we've outlined what each type of insulation is and why misconceptions about their safety exist.
Vermiculite is a naturally occurring mineral worldwide. When heated rapidly to high temperatures, this crystalline mineral expands into low density, accordion-like, golden brown strands. In addition to being light, vermiculite chunks are also absorbent and fire retardant. These characteristics make it a great insulating material. With the upsurge in homeownership during the baby boom, vermiculite insulation was a popular material in the 1950s and continued with the energy crisis into the late 1970s. In Canada, it was one of the insulating materials allowed under the Canadian Home Insulation Program from about 1976 to the mid 1980s. Sold under various brand names, such as Zonolite Attic Insulation, the insulation came in big bags. Thousands of homeowners simply opened the bags and poured the vermiculite into their attic floor, as well as down exterior walls.
The majority of the vermiculite used worldwide was from a mine in Libby, Montana. As well as being rich in vermiculite, this mine had the misfortune of having a deposit of tremolite, a type of asbestos. Asbestos minerals tend to separate into microscopic particles that become airborne and are easily inhaled. People exposed to asbestos in the workplace have developed several life-threatening diseases, including lung cancer – workers in and around the Libby mine developed serious health problems. When the vermiculite was extracted from the mine in Libby, some tremolite came in with it, posing a potential threat to homeowners.
Simple side-by-side comparison of two elevated tanks; one with vintage asbestos insulation and the other with asbestos insulation removed.
Got some expired film from the car boot sale, in Edinburgh, a few weeks ago, tried out the Kodak Ultra 400 ISO today.
Zenit B with Helios 44-2 58mm f2.
Was going to go for a walk to take photos, but ended up shooting two rolls just in the garden. There was a butterfly "trapped" in the shed - it could easily have gone out the gap in the doorway but, but of course, it fluttered by the window for ages instead. Eventually managed to usher it out the door, but unfortunately it was already way too late for its buddy :(