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Boeing 767 - MSN 29388 - TF-ISO
Airline : Icelandair
Registration : TF-ISO
Country : Iceland
Date : 1937 -
Codes FI ICE
Callsign : Iceair
Web site : www.icelandair.is
Serial number 29388 LN:785
Type 767-319ER
First flight date 17/02/2000
Engines 2 x GE CF6-80C2B6
03/04/2000 Air New Zealand ZK-NCN Stored 03/2006
06/04/2006 Flyglobespan G-CDPT
22/11/2006 Air India G-CDPT Leased from Flyglobespan
16/03/2008 Flyglobespan G-CDPT
31/01/2009 Gabon Airlines G-CDPT Leased
22/03/2009 Air Austral G-CDPT Leased from Flyglobespan
09/05/2009 Flyglobespan G-CDPT Ceased operations 17 December 2009 - Leased from ILFC
29/08/2010 Transaero Airlines EI-UNC Stored 10/2015
11/05/2016 Icelandair TF-ISO Named Hlöðufell
Leased From Aercap
Nikon D5300 - An informal test of the ISO performance of the Nikon D5300 dSLR. JPEG image, Long Exposure NR set for On, and High ISO NR set for Normal.
Example Image from Nikon D5300 Experience
Read more about Nikon cameras, including how to take control of the D5300 autofocus system, on my blog Picturing Change.
MAERSK SEMBAWANG (IMO: 9315226) is a Container Ship and is sailing under the flag of Singapore. Her length overall (LOA) is 318.41 meters and her width is 40.06 meters
Pictured here being assisted alongside Berth SCT1 at DP World Container Port by Svitzer Tugs.
Southampton International Port, Hampshire, UK.
Deneen Evening Dress Portrait Photo Shoot Arch Street Studio Philadelphia Ilford HP5 Plus ISO 400 35 mm B&W Film Contact Sheet Proof Print June 1995
ISO comparison between the Nikon D600 full frame DSLR and the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Micro Four Thirds mirrorless camera.
No adjustments (no noise reduction, no sharpening). Just exportet from Lightroom 5.7
Lenses: Nikkor AF-S 50mm f1.8 G on the Nikon, M.Zuiko 25mm f1.8 on the Olympus.
Aperture: f4 on the D600, f2 on the E-M10 (to get the same depth of field).
2015 Spring in Rock Creek Park. Diana camera loaded with Velvia 120, ISO 100. Massive light leaks due to the Diana not rolling the film tight enough. I'm not sure when this film expired, but it was living in my fridge all through high school...
ISO comparison between the Nikon D600 full frame DSLR and the Olympus OM-D E-M10 Micro Four Thirds mirrorless camera.
No adjustments (no noise reduction, no sharpening). Just exportet from Lightroom 5.7
Lenses: Nikkor AF-S 50mm f1.8 G on the Nikon, M.Zuiko 25mm f1.8 on the Olympus.
Aperture: f4 on the D600, f2 on the E-M10 (to get the same depth of field).
Mountain Ash - Olympus (1990) ZLR IS-1000 with 1:4.5-5.6 35-135mm ED Zoom & Kodak ISO 200 Film - Photographer Russell McNeil PhD (Physics) lives in Nanaimo, British Columbia where he works also as a writer and a personal trainer.
Dai-2-Ji Super Robot Taisen OG (Japan) PS3 ISO Download
bestmodslist.com/dai-2-ji-super-robot-taisen-og-japan-ps3...
"I tried to kill the pain but only brought more... I'm pouring crimson regret and betrayal" - Evanescence - Tourniquet
Canon EOS 400D - 18-55mm Lens
ISO 400
Aperture: F4.5 at 1/125
Edited in Photoshop CS3
Taken in the gardens at Coughton Court, near Alcester, Warwickshire, UK
Olympus Pen FT
Lomography 100 ISO Colour Negative Film
Nikon D7200 - Informal ISO test, both JPEG and NEF(RAW). High ISO NR (Normal) and Long Exposure NR (On) for all images.
Example image from Nikon D7200 Experience
Yashica T4 Super Film: HDR (from single jpg) - 4 (of 5) - Yashica T4 Super (1993) with Fuji ISO 200 Film - Photographer Russell McNeil PhD (Physics) lives in Nanaimo, British Columbia where he works also as a writer and a personal trainer.
ISO 400 film. Camera and film type forgotten. Probably Tri-X, using either my Minolta SRT-201, or Olympus OM-1.
Nikon Df ISO-Reihe, JPEG High, OOC, vom Stativ (Tripod), no NR. Der vollständige Test hier:
www.ralfs-foto-bude.de/kameratest/kamerahersteller/nikon/...
Große Heidelibelle im Botanischen Garten Linz mit
Nikon AF-S 300mm F/4D
420mm, F/5.6 (F/4), 1/1000, ISO 200, -0.7 EV
Kenko 1.4 DGX Pro 300
Flash: Nikon SB-700
Crop: 1500x1000 (3:2) (DS)
@ISO 2000
OLYMPUS OM-D E-M5 + G 14mm/F2.5 ASPH
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Rail cars shot at EI/ ISO 25. Reversal experiment.
17 year old, expired, vintage, Eastman Kodak 5245 EXR 50D motion picture film shot at EI/ ISO 25. Usually an ECN-2 process film, I haven’t been completely happy with the results of the negatives. So, I decided to try my hand at color reversal with ECN-2 film. There is a lot of mythology about reversing ECN-2 film and not a lot written by those who do it/have done it. I am naïve enough to believe that any film can be reversed. I still think that.
My first attempt at reversing EXR 5245 resulted in great negatives coming out of the first developer and blank negatives coming out of the final wash!?! I have heard of this happening. My immediate theory was something is interfering with the second developer leaving only the first developer (B&W) results which were washed away in the bleach. Or the color developer is dead. Some internet sleuthing deduced that another possibility was that the film was not exposed enough. The film should be overexposed a stop or two (this is controversial), and it should be overdeveloped in the first developer – use a paper developer at fuller strength and overdeveloped in the color developer. I was already using a pretty strong developer from The British Journal of Photography from the 1960s. But not as high a dose, at longer times.
Essentially: BJP Universal Paper Developer
3.2 grams Metol
12.5 grams Hydroquinone
56 grams sodium sulfite
63 grams sodium carbonate anhyd
2 grams potassium bromide
water to 1 liter.
Normal use with film is 1:4 dilution 2 to 4 minutes at 68 degrees F
The first failed development I used this at 1:5 for 5 minutes at 70 degrees F.
The color developer is RA-4 color print developer. In this case it is Fuji EC RA 108 P1-R developer replenisher. I use it concentrated and I usually can dilute it anywhere from 1:14 to 1:29 for negative films. RA-4 developer and E-6 developer are the closest to the native ECN-2 process with their Kodak CD-3 color developing agent. I did not think of it at the time, but process E-6 times might have been better.
The initial process looked like this:
Remjet Prebath (1 minute)
Rinse (4 x )
1st developer (300ml) 80 degrees F for 7 minutes
Stop bath 30 seconds
Wash 3 minute
Remjet removal however
Reexpose 2 minutes
Color Developer (300ml) 6 minutes at 105 degrees F
Wash 3 minutes
Color Bleach 5 minutes
Wash 3 minutes
Color Fix 5 minutes
Wash 5 minutes + fotoflow
Hang to dry
These results are from the second attempt. I extended time, temperature, and dilution for the first developer – 75ml developer to 225 ml of water (1 part dev to 3 parts water), at 80 degrees for 7 minutes. This produced heavy B&W negatives. I forgot to put some potassium thiocyanate in. I also forgot to ensure the pH of the color developer was around 10.59.
Color developer was about 1 part developer concentrate to 11 parts water (25 ml of developer concentrate) at 105 degrees F for 6 minutes (doubling the original ECN-2 development times). Stop is sodium bisulfite bath. Bleach and fix times were extended from ECN-2 times to 5 minutes each.
Results are here. The “slides” were a little dark but they scanned nicely. I eventually scanned them at 48 bit RGB at 4800 DPI. Is that overkill? I dunno, they look like slides, however the dust becomes like coal chunks. More to care for….
Remember if you use this process that I have only tested it once, so far, on well expired, overexposed 50D a couple of generations old. I have no other experience yet, hopefully tonight….