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Replacing the ShopSTOP at the 0 mark, and clamping it down, I've slid the loose 1/4" rod through its channel, and am here carefully butting it up against the alignment piece, again careful not to move it at all. Don't bump it. Just slowly move it into place, so it's firmly against the wood scrap.
Simplicity 7331; ©1976; Misses Shirt and Wrap Skirt (Including a Tissue Lesson Chart ...'How-to-finish Seams'): V. 1 or 2 shirt with contrasting collar and cuffs has front button closing and set-in sleeves. V. 1 has long sleeves gathered to buttoned cuffs. V. 2 has short sleeves with turn back cuffs. V. 1 or 2 skirt with waistband and tie ends can be wrapped in front or wrapped in back.
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Zigzags should be rearranged to hold the plant pot in place.
This burro's tail (in a small pot) is shorter than the walls of the box, which is key for transporting the plant.
Par la magie du Net, Robert Dabi a pu passer d'un coup de crayon virtuel à une montre qui en jette vraiment !
Tous les détails sur www.montresdesign.com
I added 2 more screws, as I've opted to use a much longer section of 1/4" rod than the little nub that came with the stop. I do this, because my stop can't ride right into the blade. My 0 mark, thus, is out where I have the stop now. To make this mark accurate, I need to make the position the stop is in now mean "0." To do so, I first loosen the screws, and slide the rod to the left, out of the way of the saw. The stop is still clamped in at "0."
My first attempt at putting a sheen on my beads in Iron Coder 0. This one was too hard for me to express in a Bézier path.
Here, Lincoln is adding the shea butter to the mixture. We just used a 1 cup measuring cup for our container. Note, the beeswax is hard to get off stuff after you are finished, so use something you are 'designating' for making balms, salves, lotions, etc.
The start of the next arc should start farther in then the previous. And the arc should have a radius of 5x centered at B.
The details of the face are quite impressionistic and loose; I just wanted to get enough detail to capture the expression on the lemur's face.
The eyes were done on a seperate layer; I used the lasso tool to create selections for the eyes and filled them with an orange that was a touch more saturated than the photo. I added pupils and a catchlight using a small brush and the Wacom tablet.
You can see in this close-up where the smudge tool comes in handy for softening the fur, especially under his chin.
I followed this sailboat sea glass mosaic DIY from Beachcombing Magazine to make an ocean waves sea glass mosaic.