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This is finely a picture of how these Binocular-pictures are made -> This is real luxury, cos I borrowed a chair from one of the kitebuggyguys. Photo by Anne Dalsgaard
More pictures shot "Through my binoculars" or in danish "Gennem min kikkert".
Camera: Panasonic LX-3 Binoculars: APM - HD 10x50
This is my very first ever zine
A lot of hard work went in to it, and I really enjoyed making it, and people seem to like reading it
Still tossing ideas around for a second one but it's going to kick the butt of this one!! :D
CLIK HERE TO DOWNLOAD ebookunlimited.space/?book=1855758873
FREE [PDF] DOWNLOAD The How-To Book for Students of Psychoanalysis and Psychotherapy Full Book
Spoiler alert - more on the shrine for tiaragoth! Don't look if you don't want to see it yet!
I tried painting the clock base flat black --- and suddenly it was WAY too much like a tombstone. That wasn't really what I wanted to relay as the character of Death in the Sandman series really isn't totally depressing. I needed to I to give the shrine more depth, so I first tried more painting and some stamping. Violet and dark blue acrylic added to the black -- now it's more like a night sky. Then I added silver stamping to highlight that night-time look. But now the accents seemed too "shiny" and nice...so I tried to bring down the tone with a coat of matte Royal Coat decoupage sealer. The swirls and stamping started to smear...oh no! Really, I shouldn't have worried...with the less distinct stamping (you don't see that here) the look is much more in keeping with the art in the Sandman graphic novels!
The piece you will see in Shrine 103 reflects the smeary look...which I am actually quite happy about!
I antiqued the little table by painting it black and rubbing the paint off. Then added silver highlights and rubbed those down, too.
I used chipboard to make a name plate for Death, using some gold stick-on letters. These seemed to bright, so I dabbed them with silver.
The star stickers, silver marker, crystal glitter & Diamond Glaze don't get added until the shots in Shrine 103.
Not a great photo but you can see how it all goes together. If you are one of the people who sent me a postcard, thanks.
The plant flew from its original resting place and I had to cut/propagate a bunch of vines. I'm expecting mixed success on rehabilitation. Looks about right.
Customised Barbie dollstand on top of my laptop keyboard, the photo enlargened to full screen and daylight to the left. Photographed at an upwards angle. Really tightly cropped on the left side in the end.
Create your own bookmark -
Take an envelope and turn it so the flap is up-side-down facing you.
Cut the right or left bottom corner off.. or both for 2 bookmarks. Cut the size of your choosing.
Decorate, draw, paint, write. Do your thing.
The page(s) of the book fit into the open pocket :)
Step 1 - Procure supplies:
Aluminum foil
X-acto knife
Hair tie
Lens adapter ring (this one was for a telescope mount)
Surprise! They are not the same inside. The 'how-to' photos are of a French button, but the instructions work for both French and English buttons.
Skill: knot the end of a thread
I tend to use two tailor's/pretzel knots stacked right on top of each other, but you can also do a Quilter's knot. Whichever you think students will grasp a hold onto easier.
Skill: thread a needle
I usually just shove the thread through the needle-eye by hand, with a bit of saliva and hand-eye coordination. But for those lacking that technique, using a needle threader may be a good approach. Just shove the threader's wires through the needle-eye, put the thread through the wires, then pull the threader away from the needle. The thread should go with it and your needle should be threaded.
Skill: Overcast stitch for securing components
The overcast stitch is handy for sewing Lilypad components to a piece of fabric. This is a good photo tutorial: www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/11/overcast-stitch-by-hand/. I like to push my needle up through the fabric, just outside of the component's connecting point/hole, and then push my needle down through the metal hole. Then push the needle back up through the fabric, just outside of the component's connecting point/hole.
Tip: Always secure connection points with 4-5 stitches.
When using connecting two electronic components with conductive thread, it's smart to use several stitches around the connecting point to ensure lots of contact between the metals.
Skill: Running stitch for connecting several components
A running or straight stitch can be used to connect the connecting points of several electronic components. It's the basic process where the thread comes up through fabric, then down, then up, down, etc. ApartmentTherapy has a tutorial on this stitch and others, here: www.apartmenttherapy.com/how-to-sew-basic-stitches-221433. I sometimes like to make smaller stitched on one side of the fabric, so they aren't quite as visible. If I don't care about looks, I'll often pick up several stitches at once to save the time of individually creating each stitch.
Tip: Ends of Thread Must Be Secured
I usually secure the end of threads by pulling the needle through several previous stitches, or sometimes backstitching. This is necessary to prevent all your work from unraveling! this tutorial describes some options.
Tip: Always trim loose thread ends
Keep your thread ends short. You don't want an electrically conductive thread to touch other electrically conductive thread (when a battery is involved), as it will do weird things to your circuit and/or short the circuit and make it not work.
Tip: Do not sew threads so that they cross.
Crossing threads when sewing may short the circuit. Also, do not sew too loosely, as dangling threads may also cross other threads (similar to long thread ends). Make sure that when your project is being worn, different lines of threads don't touch each other, either. If you're afraid of threads touching/crossing during wear, it's possible to insulate the threads with hot glue, or by stitching fabric over top of the conductive threads (using non-conductive thread).
Tip: Don’t sew positives to negatives and vice versa. Notice which is which!
The circuit only works if negatives are connected to negative sources, and the same for positives. This sort of forces the circuitous nature of the circuit ;)