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Shareshelf is a project that aims to give old or neglected objects new lives.
What is no longer useful for someone might be interesting and even desirable for somebody else.
In order to match these needs we’re creating a network of exchange places tagged by object categories, like: technology, travel, street-art, sports and so on.
These places are common physical shelves installed in public spaces like shops, agencies, or art galleries.
Shareshelf is a project open to everybody and completely free!
Drop us a line (info@shareshelf.net) if you are interested in opening a shareshelf!
The beta versione of the project website www.shareshelf.net is coming soon ;)
Wet your paper by sticking it in a shallow container of water and letting it sit from 5-10 minutes, depending on the paper you're using. If you have wimpier paper (not watercolour), wet it for a shorter time or use a spray bottle.
If you're replacing a chain, use wire cutters to cut the old jump rings, or needle nose plier to bend them open and remove the jump rings+chain.
And there are the prints. The watercolour pencil didn't transfer very well, so I'll be touching it up.
You will need: (30) 1 1/4" wood screws, a drill (or hammer and nails), (3) 1x6 10' long whitewood boards (cut in half, with one scrap piece being further cut to 28"), (1) 1x4 10' long white wood board (cut to 2x 49" pieces), Minwax Oil Stain, Water-based Polycrilic, Fine Sandpaper, 2 Paintbrushes, and (2) 4" strips of Velcro.
These written instructions are for a queen-sized bed that is approximately 60" wide and 23" tall, with a headboard that is five horizontal planks. There is a summary image above that will help you calculate how much lumber (and what sizes) you will need for a different-sized bed.
Purchase your supplies at the hardware store. If you do not own a saw, most big chain hardware stores have lumber cutting services and they will cut the wood to your desired size. Avoid purchasing warped boards if at all possible.
Use this gardening watering well to help water garden plants. Just plant your favorite vegetables near the watering well, then fill the well with water. The water will slowly seep out of the bottom of the well, thus watering the roots of your plants.
Take a peek after you've burnished the print. Keep a hand on the paper, so the whole thing doesn't come up. If there are spots missing, carefully lay it back down and go at it some more.
Take your last jump ring and thread it onto the other end of the chain. Use pliers to bend the jump ring closed.
www.fashionreserve.com/wp-content/uploads/edd/2015/08/clo...
Here’s a few pointers on how to start a fashion business, from the perspective of someone who opened an online fashion business in the United Kingdom, selling to Europe and some of the gulf states. Firstly, some basic requirements in terms of personnel, technical knowledge, and resources, and then a step-by-step guide from fashion designs through production and sale.
Technical Expertise
So in starting a fashion business, who do I need? Well, you can be a jack of all trades, but you will need at least all of these disciplines: fashion designer, graphic designer, pattern cutter, photographer, dressmaker, web designer, salesperson.
When I started a ladies’ apparel business, I partnered with a fashion designer, so in-house we had about 3 of the above disciplines. The rest we outsourced. I think you could, at the start, do all of the above yourself if you are computer-confident fashion designer. Personally, I think the pattern cutter should be provided by your manufacture but more on that later.
Step 1: Design
Our fashion designer, a part-time freelancer, was asked last week if she could design 30 separate dresses for an upcoming, new brand. Her (fair) response: why do you need 30 unique pieces when you can have 10 designs in 3 separate colorways each? How to start a fashion business? Minimise outlay.
Check this one pattern for a simple example.
Step 2: Pattern cutting and fabrics
For our dresses, we chose a high-quality Bulgarian factory for our production. They were just great as they had some pattern-cutters, who as far as I am concerned are the backbone of the entire fashion industry. The patterns produced by these in-house pattern cutters were roughly cut according to our designs, in calico. These ladies were absolute experts and, although we did not speak the same language, understood the international words of ‘darts, seam, hem’ and the like. Pins between the teeth etc.
At this time, we also took many samples and prices of fabrics for use in the garments. We took these along to the factory, together with the designer, and asked for feedback from the pattern cutters on drape and elasticity, need for lining and the like.
Step 3: Proto fitting and adjustments
So then the proto-samples were cut, and again, as we were saving our pennies, and our designer is a size S – we fit the dresses on her. Yes, there was some hilarity, but with soap and pins, we managed to adjust the protos to a more universal ‘s’, and tweak an nudge a few things that did not quite work out. I cannot underestimate the importance of this procedure. The best way is to do it all together, in a room off the factory floor, and spend a day for fittings, tweaks and adjustments. For us, it was also a great bonding session with the factory folks.
Step 4: Salesman sample production, grading and photoshoots
Salesman’s samples are the finished product, with or without labels. Ah – there’s another thing. We did get offers from many companies on logo production. We opted for a satin embroidered logo, white text on black background, that came in at about $0.2 per label. We also asked the factory to provide care and size labels, which they did, for some more cents per dress.
For grading, we used quite standard size charts – 2 cm difference in width, 1 cm in length. We produced a few salesman’s samples for our market – 1 XS, 3 S, 1 M, 1 L.
Next up – photoshoots. We found a friend of a friend who set up the whole thing – for around 30 dresses, with retouching, and 3-4 angles per dress, plus about 5 lifestyle shots for banners/header images and things, cost about 1200 euro. It took a day, we had two models, 1 hairdresser and a makeup artist.
Step 5: (Optional) Setting up a shop (online), and producing stock
This depends on your business model. For us, we were a bit odd, because with our business model, we sent photos to potential clients, took orders, then produced them. For our online shop, we used Shopify. This was pretty cool in our case because Shopify take a % of you revenue per sale, but our site was just used as great way to showcase our product so in the end we just paid the base price.
However, whether you set up shop online or offline, I really suggest getting your customers at stage 4 above. How to set up a fashion business: secure some distributors first. It’s obviously far superior to producing 1200 garments on spec with all you and your friend’s savings – if you can find some sort of buffer with an upfront order, great. If not, then try to as much of the above as possible with as little stock as possible, and of course, anybody you ask about how to start a fashion business will tell you to use ALL your contacts/social networks/friends/families/dogs to spread the word as possible.
One last way to minimise your risk, make money and also showcase your designs is on Fashion Reserve, where the designs themselves, rather than the finished product, can be sold over and over again – register here to get going.
You can embed Flickr images in blog posts, web pages, and other web-based platforms. The steps outlined in this image and the next three will show you how.
1. Go to the image you want to embed and click on the Share button in the lower right corner (circled in this photo)
If you are using a wooden spoon, rub it in small circular motions, from the centre out, "burnishing" the whole surface. It can be a little tricky, because you have a smaller tool than a rolling pin or brayer, but it works just as well.
Step 0: Materials
Bamboo wooden dowels (the kind you use for shish kebabs), Circular mirrors of assorted sizes (one larger than the rest), Silver spray paint, Hot glue gun, and/or duct tape
Step 1: Spray paint the wooden dowels silver
Spray paint one side of the dowels, flip over, spray paint the other side, let dry.
Step 2: Hot glue & duct tape dowels to the back of the large mirror
This step is sort of hodge-podge. Just use whatever you have at hand to ensure that the dowels stick to the back of the mirror. I used mostly hot glue, reinforced with duct tape.
Step 3: Flip mirror over to the "right side" and attach smaller mirrors to dowels with hot glue
Step 4: Hang your new starburst mirror on the wall, you're done!
I like to secure my mirror with some double-sided tape on the back, and a wire nail at the bottom of the mirror.
There is probably still some ink on your plate. If you want, you can make a ghost print. Do the printing process again, with a new piece of paper. The resulting print is much lighter and spottier. The patchiness can be good though, depending on what you want.
When you've got it all burnished, peel the paper off the plate. In the industry this is called "pulling a print". You'll see there are some crappy spots. I'll fix that in a second.
If you're using a rolling pin, there is really no explanation needed. Remember to work from the centre out.
Going around the pattern with your scirssors, cut the flower shape from the folded chiffon.
The trick for this step is to have really sharp scissors. If you don't, then try only cutting some of the fabric at once, instead of all of it.