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add a pager motor by hot-glueing it to the belly of your spiderbot. one terminal of the motor will go to the top of the battery, using the insulated wire. the other wire will touch the body of your spiderbot to complete the circuit. make a hook out of a wire and use it like a switch.
After cutting out the styrene sheet walls, I glued them with rubber cement. I put the rubber cement on both the paper and the styrene so that they would have a strong bond.
I glued only three of the inner walls, then placed a weight on them for over an hour to ensure that the bond was strong.
Take a print-out of your desired image and (using a ruler) place a square grid on top. I used 1"x1" squares in this example.
It's also possible to draw a grid on the image using software, as I did.
The above image is from arthistory.about.com/b/2008/10/25/sunflowers-coloring-pag....
As much as I hate to show the original photo, I love seeing other people do the same, so I'm posting this in kind (thanks Teevio :).
Left: the original photo.
Middle: cropped a bit, removed the lamp, book shelf and stack of papers, cleaned up the background in general.
Right: added a gradient to the background (at 80%), increased the saturation of the background, added noise (at 20%), added a shadow on the left, selected and duplicated myself on a separate layer, then blurred that layer and set it to 10% with the layer mode set to Overlay, then decreased the saturation overall.
This charger didn't have enough tension to hold the batteries properly so by bending the tangs a bit it fixes the problem.
Homemade lens cap on the right.
Chihuahua stealing the scene as she walks up on the left. :)
MATERIALS NEEDED
1. Body cap that fits your camera
2. Soda can for aluminum sheet
3. Silicone adhesive
4. Flat black paint / large sharpie marker
TOOLS NEEDED
1. Large sewing needle
2. 1/4" (apx) drill bit
3. Drill (optional)
4. Heavy duty scissors
5. Paper scissors
6. Tooth picks (or similar)
7. 600-800 grit sanding block/paper
8. Center punch (optional)
9. Tape (to hold aluminum while glue dries and mask body cap during painting)
Sew up your straps and pin them on. Yeah, even attempt to pin them onto the back yourself. Make it criss cross if you'd like.
With my yellow jumper, they were directly sewn on both the front and back. This isn't that hard to get on, except, because they criss cross it gets confusing.
With this one, I sewed them directly onto the front, and put buttons and buttonholes on the back.
Squeeze and lengthen the strip until you can cut it into slices, with a single sided blade, thin enough to produce individual leaves. You can cut slightly thicker pieces for the centre.
What I had so far was a fairly strong building, but the wall were flexible at the corners. No doubt gluing the roof on would help stop the flexing.
However, for me it was not enough. I cut out four 0.188" styrene angle pieces about the length of the height of the inner styrene walls. These would be used to buttress the corners.
Grap piece A and WRONG side up fold the RIGHT side over about ¼“, then fold again, about ¾”. This will be the "casing" where your buttons will go.
Finish the top edge, or measure where it will be so you have a better idea on where to put your buttons.
The result of the last step for gluing two buildings together. You can see how I glued the tabs together so that the end tab was folded over the main wall tab.
The trick is to click on the title of the article in the reading pane, THEN click on the bookmark-looking "read it later" button.
Pull out a needle and sew those buttons on!
You are going to sew your buttons inside the "casing." Now, when the bodice is inside out, you can't see the stitches, instead you see the clean right side of the fabric.
I glue each of the 0.188" styrene angle pieces to a corner with Crazy Glue. The glue sets quickly so I had to be sure to drop it in the corner carefully.
I used a pencil to hold it in place while it set. I only need to wait about 30 to 60 seconds.
