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ever since i bought my house i find myself taken with home magazines. they are both exciting (who knew there were 700 different choices in bathtubs?) and very aging..
On my blog is a description and how to make your own whiteboard soooo much better than those smudgy boring whitboards.
This is finely a picture of how these Binocular-pictures are made -> This is real luxury, cos I borrowed a chair from one of the kitebuggyguys. Photo by Anne Dalsgaard
More pictures shot "Through my binoculars" or in danish "Gennem min kikkert".
Camera: Panasonic LX-3 Binoculars: APM - HD 10x50
Skill: knot the end of a thread
I tend to use two tailor's/pretzel knots stacked right on top of each other, but you can also do a Quilter's knot. Whichever you think students will grasp a hold onto easier.
Skill: thread a needle
I usually just shove the thread through the needle-eye by hand, with a bit of saliva and hand-eye coordination. But for those lacking that technique, using a needle threader may be a good approach. Just shove the threader's wires through the needle-eye, put the thread through the wires, then pull the threader away from the needle. The thread should go with it and your needle should be threaded.
Skill: Overcast stitch for securing components
The overcast stitch is handy for sewing Lilypad components to a piece of fabric. This is a good photo tutorial: www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/11/overcast-stitch-by-hand/. I like to push my needle up through the fabric, just outside of the component's connecting point/hole, and then push my needle down through the metal hole. Then push the needle back up through the fabric, just outside of the component's connecting point/hole.
Tip: Always secure connection points with 4-5 stitches.
When using connecting two electronic components with conductive thread, it's smart to use several stitches around the connecting point to ensure lots of contact between the metals.
Skill: Running stitch for connecting several components
A running or straight stitch can be used to connect the connecting points of several electronic components. It's the basic process where the thread comes up through fabric, then down, then up, down, etc. ApartmentTherapy has a tutorial on this stitch and others, here: www.apartmenttherapy.com/how-to-sew-basic-stitches-221433. I sometimes like to make smaller stitched on one side of the fabric, so they aren't quite as visible. If I don't care about looks, I'll often pick up several stitches at once to save the time of individually creating each stitch.
Tip: Ends of Thread Must Be Secured
I usually secure the end of threads by pulling the needle through several previous stitches, or sometimes backstitching. This is necessary to prevent all your work from unraveling! this tutorial describes some options.
Tip: Always trim loose thread ends
Keep your thread ends short. You don't want an electrically conductive thread to touch other electrically conductive thread (when a battery is involved), as it will do weird things to your circuit and/or short the circuit and make it not work.
Tip: Do not sew threads so that they cross.
Crossing threads when sewing may short the circuit. Also, do not sew too loosely, as dangling threads may also cross other threads (similar to long thread ends). Make sure that when your project is being worn, different lines of threads don't touch each other, either. If you're afraid of threads touching/crossing during wear, it's possible to insulate the threads with hot glue, or by stitching fabric over top of the conductive threads (using non-conductive thread).
Tip: Don’t sew positives to negatives and vice versa. Notice which is which!
The circuit only works if negatives are connected to negative sources, and the same for positives. This sort of forces the circuitous nature of the circuit ;)
Cut off the unnecessary fabric just below the petal points. Be sure to keep the fabric held together with your fingers.
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Step 1 - Procure supplies:
Aluminum foil
X-acto knife
Hair tie
Lens adapter ring (this one was for a telescope mount)
Spoiler alert - more on the shrine for tiaragoth! Don't look if you don't want to see it yet!
I tried painting the clock base flat black --- and suddenly it was WAY too much like a tombstone. That wasn't really what I wanted to relay as the character of Death in the Sandman series really isn't totally depressing. I needed to I to give the shrine more depth, so I first tried more painting and some stamping. Violet and dark blue acrylic added to the black -- now it's more like a night sky. Then I added silver stamping to highlight that night-time look. But now the accents seemed too "shiny" and nice...so I tried to bring down the tone with a coat of matte Royal Coat decoupage sealer. The swirls and stamping started to smear...oh no! Really, I shouldn't have worried...with the less distinct stamping (you don't see that here) the look is much more in keeping with the art in the Sandman graphic novels!
The piece you will see in Shrine 103 reflects the smeary look...which I am actually quite happy about!
I antiqued the little table by painting it black and rubbing the paint off. Then added silver highlights and rubbed those down, too.
I used chipboard to make a name plate for Death, using some gold stick-on letters. These seemed to bright, so I dabbed them with silver.
The star stickers, silver marker, crystal glitter & Diamond Glaze don't get added until the shots in Shrine 103.
Customised Barbie dollstand on top of my laptop keyboard, the photo enlargened to full screen and daylight to the left. Photographed at an upwards angle. Really tightly cropped on the left side in the end.
I ran a continuous (decorative) stitch along the binding between the flags as well, because it meant I didn't have to keep stopping and starting.
These are the two knives I carry while diving. The left is my primary, which I strap to my inner right calf. The other knife I have hooked on a retrieval cord on my BCD. I make sure to wash and rinse my knives after every dive. Unfortunately, my primary knife seems to get some water stuck in the plastic, which means after drying there are often salty rust deposits around where the metal contacts the plastic.
If you want, you can just free hand the image you want onto the canvas. However, I'm not particularly good at drawing, so this is the method I use:
(1) After you draw a grid over your desired image, figure out how many tall & wide you need/want.
(2) Using some basic math, determine how large the squares on the target canvas need to be. (I take the smallest length/width of the canvas, and divide it by the smallest number from the previous step.
(3) Using a ruler, draw squares of the size determined in the previous step onto the canvas.
(4) Using the grids on both the desired image and the canvas, draw the illustration onto your canvas.
Cut off the unnecessary fabric just below the petal points. Be sure to keep the fabric held together with your fingers.
I built IanH's Bidoit shops. This model is made up of two buildings that can be glued together. I glued them together with rubber cement and then placed a weight to hold them together while the glue set. In this case a bowl with the paper cement bottle on it worked very well.
Create your own bookmark -
Take an envelope and turn it so the flap is up-side-down facing you.
Cut the right or left bottom corner off.. or both for 2 bookmarks. Cut the size of your choosing.
Decorate, draw, paint, write. Do your thing.
The page(s) of the book fit into the open pocket :)