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Here is how i put the hanger into the board and hung it to the hook on the wire. i did this 10cm (3,9in) from each side of the print. Excess wire is rolled up behind the Print.
I've removed the stop temporarily here, as it was in the way of this long piece of wood. What I'm doing here is holding the wood down very firmly, and removing the end. I won't move the large piece left on the saw. It needs to stay tightly in place.
Showing how easy it is to add a section to the outline in Sales and Marketing Pro.
For instance, I've added a social media strategy spreadsheet.
For information on how to purchase the software go to www.paloalto.com/sales_and_marketing_plan_software/
Match up your little creases.
Accompanying post: domesticat.net/2010/03/how-make-blinkenlight
Main page for this quilt: domesticat.net/quilts/blinkenlights
With the rod and wood pieces unmoving, screw the rod clamp screws back in place. Now the rod is dialed in to make the stop really mean 0" when it's at the 0" mark.
The start of the next arc should start farther in then the previous. And the arc should have a radius of 5x centered at B.
I used an awl, but a tiny screwdriver or metal knitting needle (or similar) may also work. Use the template to ensure the holes are in the same position for each card.
3) Re-insert the bangs. Do not use too much force, but you also do not want to push too lightly. The seal should be quite snug once secure.
Draw the shape of the stocking on the arm-fabric. Mine was 6” at the top of the arm, 5“ at the wrist, and 8.5” at its widest (paw). Give 1.4“ seam allowance on all sides.
My first attempt at putting a sheen on my beads in Iron Coder 0. This one was too hard for me to express in a Bézier path.
See? 12".
I later switched the blade from a rip (26 teeth) to a finish (90 teeth), and the cut quality got amazing. The ends look like finished plastic now. I may never use a ripping blade again. This is the old rip cut, clocking in at 12". It seems just shy of it to me, but again, all of this can be dialed in to very high tolerances. At this point, the tape measure may not even be the best judge, if the end piece is loose.
Pulse until pea-sized dough pieces form. This is so much easier than messing about with a pastry blender, two knives, or even fingers, and takes far less time.
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The details of the face are quite impressionistic and loose; I just wanted to get enough detail to capture the expression on the lemur's face.
The eyes were done on a seperate layer; I used the lasso tool to create selections for the eyes and filled them with an orange that was a touch more saturated than the photo. I added pupils and a catchlight using a small brush and the Wacom tablet.
You can see in this close-up where the smudge tool comes in handy for softening the fur, especially under his chin.