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When the frame was together, we used it to measure the actual size of the bottom we needed. This was to allow for any discrepancies in measuring, or for any angles that had not been as exact as we wanted. My father is a "measure twice, cut once" kind of guy, so he wanted to be absolutely sure the bottoms would be just right.
¡Muy buenas! Con el tutorial de hoy aprenderemos a hacer imitaciones de piezas de LEGO con arcilla polimérica. Nuestras piezas no servirán para montar construcciones pero podremos utilizarlos para un sinfÃn de opciones decorativas. seguir leyendo
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When we were building the frame, which we decided would be 18 inches square (a little big, but the challenge comes in later), Dad used a special tool to drill screw holes through the center of the wood, making the joints far stronger.
When stitching the backpack strap back together, the cables should all be on the upper side of the backpack strap for shoulder comfort.
Not related to the boost gauge install, but good to know. The 'early' models had a "B" fuel pump, but it's been superseded to this part number.
Stack all three layers on top of each other, with the right sides facing. Then sew around the rectangle with a 1/4" inseam. Snip all four corners off.
This was particularly relvant to me, as my back wheel was recently stolen in broad daylight.
The quick release let soemone remove my wheel without using any tools. I don't need quick release on my rear wheel, so I think I'll secure it using a fastener.
I needed a way to hold this bongo together while the glue dried. First I tried rubber bands, but they didn't hold tight enough.
Wire ties did the trick. You can thread multiple ties together to make any length that you want.
And if you're frugal, you can reuse them. Insert a small screwdriver into the back side of the block to release the catch.