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The old Norman Church, which stood on the north side of the main street, near the village stores, described as "very ancient, the smallest I ever saw" in 1791 by John O'Keefe, had originally one aisle, a low square tower, under which was the gallery, reached from the churchyard by an outside flight of stone steps and a small porch on the south side. In 1842 an extension was made, bringing the outside wall level with the porch and thus giving the Church a curiously lop-sided appearance.
In the gallery sat the choir with its flutes, violins, 'cello and double bass. Much of the music was written by local musicians, and many in the village remember hearing of the parts played by their grandparents.
By 1869 the old Church had become dilapidated and inadequate for the needs of the inhabitants of West Lulworth. It was very close to cottages on either side, and the Rev. William Gildea, curate of Winfrith and later a Canon (non resident) of Salisbury Cathedral, whose living it was, of an annual value of about £130, arranged for the building of the new Church and Vicarage on a far more convenient site.
The new Church of the Holy Trinity was built from the designs of Mr. John Hicks of Dorchester, but owing to his death, was carried out by Mr. R. G. Crickmay of Weymouth, the pulpit, font, prayer desk and other internal fittings being from his designs. Messrs. Wellspring & Son, of Dorchester, were the builders. The Dorset County Chronicle of Thursday, 12th May, 1870 states: "The style is Early Geometrical Gothic, and it is built of Purbeck stone, the carved, moulded and highly finished portions of the stonework generally are of Bath freestone. The material of the old Parish Church was used as much as possible. The letters on the moulding over the east window of the transept (behind the organ) stood over a sixteenth-century window in the north wall of the old Church, and read 'Robertus Lulleworth'" presumably the name of an ancient Lord of the Manor, after whom the village is named. "The rear arch springs from demi-angels bearing shields. In the chancel is an oak bench with carved framing and panels of the seventeenth century, which has been restored." (A photograph of a sketch of the old Church is in the vestry.)
The foundation stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, wife of Nathaniel Bond. Esq., of Holme Priory, the fifth daughter of the Second Earl of Eldon. "The stone itself was found buried a foot or two underground in the old churchyard. It now supports four arches, and underneath it was placed a glass bottle containing a newspaper and one or two coins of the year". The brass plate can be seen behind the base of the lectern, and the inscription reads "This stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, June 1st 1869, William Gildea, Vicar, William Randall, Thomas Randall, Jun.. Churchwardens".
The Church was consecrated by the Bishop of Salisbury, Dr. George Moberley, on 11th May, 1870, "In a fierce gale of wind accompanied by heavy rain", in the presence of twenty-five other clergy, the churchwardens and many parishioners and friends.
In his memorandum of November, 1879, the Rev. W. Gildea states: "The Communion Table is made of oak cut out of the beams of the old Church roof, which were much decayed except in the centre".
"Some of the wood in the reredos was wreck picked up at sea and still has trace of the paint of the vessel to which it belonged. The three panels of the reredos were painted by Miss Hicks, daughter of the architect."
The carved panels on either side of the oak reredos, come from Oberammergau. They are carved in deep relief in lime wood, and are the work of Hans Mayer, the son of Josef Mayer, who on three occasions, in the years 1870, 1880 and 1890, acted "Christus" in the Passion Play.
It was after a lecture on the Passion Play given in Lulworth in 1894, by Mr. Arthur Evans, that the villagers heard of the beautiful wood carving at Oberammergau and decided to start a fund to purchase some for the Church. The panels represent the Birth and Baptism of Jesus, the Crucifixion and the Supper at Emmaus. They were placed there in 1895.
The lectern stem and base contain woods from Europe, Asia, Africa and America. The eagle standing on its globe was executed by Messrs. Case, Strand, London.
The Rev. William Gildea was a keen amateur woodworker. Helped by Mr. Basil Sprague, who turned the wood pillars, capitals and bases, and by Mr. John Chaffey, he executed the altar, reredos woodwork, altar rails and the stem of the lectern.
The beautiful carving of the columns and corbels was done by Mr. Benjamin Grassby of Dorchester and was the gift of Mrs. Gildea. The capitals are of French Early Gothic foliage variety.
The illuminated texts over the arches of the Nave were painted by Mr. Thomas Randall of Hamboro’ Farm, who died a few weeks before completion of the work. Members of the Randall family were churchwardens for over 100 years. Mr. Matthew Randall had been chiefly instrumental in adding an aisle to the old Church, and took a great interest in the building of the new one. Mr. William Randall acted as churchwarden throughout the seventeen years of the Rev. W. Gildea's incumbency.
For several years before his death in 1981, Mr. P. J. Franklin , F.C.LO.B., gave generously of his time and expert knowledge; arranged for the complete redecoration of the church; and for the illuminated texts to be repainted by Mr. F. E. J. Chinchen of Lulworth Camp.
The first couple to be married in the new church, on 16th February, 1871, were James George Dorey, aged 23, and Maria Eliza Saunders, aged 24, grandparents of Mr. Walter Dorey, who is the last of the West Lulworth Doreys, a family whose names appear in the earliest registers from 1745. Unfortunately the older registers dating back to the sixteenth century were destroyed by fire.
The earliest mention of a curate is Sir Peter Rosse, 1553. Later names are: S. Haines, 1753; Benjamin Thomton, 1777; John Bale, 1789; Robert Goodrich, 1803; Franklin Tonkin, 1845; J. G. Fisher, 1847; Edward Dix Wood, 1850; Cornell P. West, 1852; Joseph Maskell, 1855; John Wynne, 1857; W. A. Bayley, 1861.
The continued list of Vicars is behind the Font.
The first, the Rev. William Gildea, was obviously a man of great character and many talents. His wife, five sons. and four daughters, together with his large staff at the Vicarage, centred village life around the Church. There is no doubt that he largely financed the building himself, with the aid of loans from Lord Eldon, the Rev. Eldon Bankes, and Nathaniel Bond, Esq.
The Rev. W. Percy Schuster and his family also had an outstanding influence, and provided the Church with most of its stained-glass windows and many essential adornments.
The Parish Church is now included in the list of buildings of special architectural or historic interest.
Tower
The battlemented tower was completed after the Church was consecrated. It was enlarged in 1888 at a cost of £600; two original bells were cast into one and four added in 1892 and a sixth in 1903. The bellringers were very active and the bells rang out to welcome important visitors, mark notable events, etc. In 1911, 1,260 changes were rung in 43 minutes! The weight of the bells varied from 11 cwts. to 4 cwts. They unfortunately proved too heavy for the Belfry, which was demolished and rebuilt in 1952-53, this time at a cost of £6,000. (See photographs in vestry.) The bells were all sold except the:
Tenor - "Through all the changing scenes of life"
III - "Where sweetly chimes this bell
O' er sea and hill and dell
May Jesus Christ be praised"
both dated 1892.
Without the enthusiasm of Lady Fripp, and much help from Captain Schreiber (see later), the tower might never have been rebuilt. Lady Fripp organized a large fête and raised money in many other ways. She also made many gifts to the Church. Sir Alfred and Lady Fripp came to the Mill House in 1911; later Weston was built for them (designed by Lutyens). His father and uncle, Alfred and George Fripp were both well-known artists and painted beautiful water-colours of the old cottages, the Mill pond, the Cove and the rocks of the spring, before the waterworks took away its charm. Sir Alfred, (surgeon to King Edward VII), and Lady Fripp were most popular in the village, and gladly attended to the health of any local sick children. They are both buried in the Churchyard. The close connection of the family with West Lulworth, happily still continues. The Jubilee Clock, made by Messrs. Potts & Co., of Leeds, at an estimated cost of £130, was added in 1897. The clock chimes were reset by Colonel Robert Hamblin, in memory of his wife, Mary, in 1972. He left a legacy of £1,000 to the Church, to which they were both very devoted and generous.
Stained-Glass Windows
The east window was given by Messrs. R. and J. A. Williams of Bridehead, near Dorchester. The west window was given anonymously in 1898, the stained glass is by Kempe and is exceptionally good - a close composition in sombre colours.
The north and south windows in the Sanctuary are in memory of the Rev. W. P. Schuster’s brother, Herbert L. Schuster, Esq. The window in the Chancel is in memory of his sister, Miss Fanny Emily Schuster, and another brother, the Rev. Edmond Vemon Schuster, Rector of Haughton Dale, Lancashire.
The south window and brass plate near the pulpit recall the Rev. John Henry Lonsdale. He was a keen fisherman, a friend of Alfred Fripp since their student days, and frequently officiated in the Church. He loved Lulworth and the little sailing ships which unloaded coal for the Castle and village at the old store in the Cove. Sometimes their anchors cut adrift and caused serious damage to the fishermen's nets, which at that time were hauled in from the mouth of the Cove to under Bindon Hill by eight men. This delightful window, and also payments for divers from Weymouth to remove anchors and other offending obstacles, were given by relatives and friends of this much-loved Dorset parson.
The other south window in the Nave, by A. C. Moore, is in memory of Isaac Fryer, Esq., who in gratitude for the recovery of health of his daughter in 1874, founded "The Fryer Trust" - for the distribution of coals, cash or clothing in the village at Christmas. Inflation, alas, has now made this Trust of little value. It is administered by the Parish Council. This same daughter, Mrs. Russell, when in Lulworth, lived with her crippled child at "Old Sea View" (now the Mill House). When the child died aged 14, the Rev. W. P. Schuster wrote of her as "One who in her short life, set a bright example of faith and hope and patience amid much bodily suffering".
The two north windows in the Nave are in memory of Maria Theresa Schuster, wife of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, whose memorial plaque is in the Chancel; and of Christopher John Claud Schuster, who was sadly killed in action only three months before the end of the First World War. Aged 19, he was the only son of Sir Claud Schuster, afterwards Baron of Ceme, who lived at Gatton Cottage (now Gatton House) and with his wife is buried in the Churchyard. Sir Claud was a nephew of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, and often read the lessons in the Church. The stained glass is beautiful and portrays St. George slaying the dragon, on the left side, and St. Christopher on the right.
Memorial Plaques
Chancel
John Wordsworth, Bishop of Salisbury, son of Bishop Christopher Wordsworth 'Man of Letters'. He officiated at services whenever he was staying at his seaside home, 'Bishop's Cottage', and was a great friend to everyone in the village. His daughter. Rose Salome, was christened in August, 1900 and his granddaughter, Rosa Jane Pelly, in April, 1931, in the Church. His wife is buried in the Churchyard. The plaque is composed of alabaster and opus sectile, bearing the Diocesan and Wordsworth Arms, executed by Messrs. Powell, Whitefriars, London.
William Percy Schuster, Vicar for 27 years until his death. He and his wife, mother, brothers and sister were devoted to the Church, and their generosity is recorded in many of the old Parish Magazines. He and his wife and his sister, Fanny Emily, are buried in the Churchyard. In 1925 the endowment was increased by £1,000 in his memory, by his wife, Maria Theresa. The plaque is surrounded by alabaster, carved with acoms and oak leaves.
Walter Henry Chaffey. He was a faithful verger and churchwarden for 25 years and a member of the choir for 71 years. Quiet, modest and efficient, keenly interested in ecclesiastical law and anything to do with the Church, he never failed in his duty to it. He came from a long line of Lulworth Chaffeys and many of his family still live in East and West Lulworth. He is buried in the Churchyard.
Nave
The Rev. Benjamin Bodycombe (small crucifix above the pulpit). A widower, he married his second wife in the Church. He suffered much ill-health and died after five years as Vicar, and he and his wife are buried in the Churchyard. He took a great interest in the music, and in young people.
Mary Frances Urquhart. Her husband Major Charles James Urquhart built "Oswalds" (now Bincleaves) and after he died she lived at Spring Cottage.
Florence Rose Mary Robson was daughter of the above and wife of Colonel Henry Denne Robson. They also lived at Oswalds. "She was the life and soul of the village," says one who knew her.
Katherine Williams, wife of Regtl, Quartermaster Sergt. William Henry Williams, son of Robert Williams, one of the fishermen of West Lulworth. Her son by her first marriage was:
John Beare, Lance-Corporal, R.E., who died, aged 25, as a prisoner-of-war in Japan in the Second World War.
North Aisle
William Tucker of St. Andrews, another faithful churchwarden for many years in the time of the Rev. W. P. Schuster. He was a popular local farmer, and is buried in the Churchyard.
Jack Stewart Newcombe, Pilot Officer, R.A.F., aged 21, and his brother Gordon Clifford Newcombe, Lieut., R.N., H.M.S. Glorious, aged 25. Both killed flying. Their mother and step-father, Major and Mrs. Campbell, lived at 8 Coastguard Cottages. They were "Two fine young men".
Lychgate
Captain Frederick Godfrey Schreiber, R. N. (Retd.), built the Lychgate in memory of his wife, Agnes Winifred, who died in 1949. It was dedicated by the Bishop of Salisbury in 1953 and is built of oak with a tiled roof. His own name is now inscribed there too. He died in 1966 after living at Stair House for 33 years. Capt Schreiber was a very generous benefactor, he donated £500 to the rebuilding of the Tower, with which work he was much involved. He gave £1,000 4% Consols to form "The Schreiber Trust" in 1954, which is primarily for the general upkeep of the Churchyard, particularly the Lychgate and the Schreiber grave and monument. The brass altar cross was another gift in memory of his wife.
Churchyard
There are many interesting people buried in the Churchyard, villagers both well-known and lesser-known, who all played their part in shaping the life of West Lulworth.
The old Norman Church, which stood on the north side of the main street, near the village stores, described as "very ancient, the smallest I ever saw" in 1791 by John O'Keefe, had originally one aisle, a low square tower, under which was the gallery, reached from the churchyard by an outside flight of stone steps and a small porch on the south side. In 1842 an extension was made, bringing the outside wall level with the porch and thus giving the Church a curiously lop-sided appearance.
In the gallery sat the choir with its flutes, violins, 'cello and double bass. Much of the music was written by local musicians, and many in the village remember hearing of the parts played by their grandparents.
By 1869 the old Church had become dilapidated and inadequate for the needs of the inhabitants of West Lulworth. It was very close to cottages on either side, and the Rev. William Gildea, curate of Winfrith and later a Canon (non resident) of Salisbury Cathedral, whose living it was, of an annual value of about £130, arranged for the building of the new Church and Vicarage on a far more convenient site.
The new Church of the Holy Trinity was built from the designs of Mr. John Hicks of Dorchester, but owing to his death, was carried out by Mr. R. G. Crickmay of Weymouth, the pulpit, font, prayer desk and other internal fittings being from his designs. Messrs. Wellspring & Son, of Dorchester, were the builders. The Dorset County Chronicle of Thursday, 12th May, 1870 states: "The style is Early Geometrical Gothic, and it is built of Purbeck stone, the carved, moulded and highly finished portions of the stonework generally are of Bath freestone. The material of the old Parish Church was used as much as possible. The letters on the moulding over the east window of the transept (behind the organ) stood over a sixteenth-century window in the north wall of the old Church, and read 'Robertus Lulleworth'" presumably the name of an ancient Lord of the Manor, after whom the village is named. "The rear arch springs from demi-angels bearing shields. In the chancel is an oak bench with carved framing and panels of the seventeenth century, which has been restored." (A photograph of a sketch of the old Church is in the vestry.)
The foundation stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, wife of Nathaniel Bond. Esq., of Holme Priory, the fifth daughter of the Second Earl of Eldon. "The stone itself was found buried a foot or two underground in the old churchyard. It now supports four arches, and underneath it was placed a glass bottle containing a newspaper and one or two coins of the year". The brass plate can be seen behind the base of the lectern, and the inscription reads "This stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, June 1st 1869, William Gildea, Vicar, William Randall, Thomas Randall, Jun.. Churchwardens".
The Church was consecrated by the Bishop of Salisbury, Dr. George Moberley, on 11th May, 1870, "In a fierce gale of wind accompanied by heavy rain", in the presence of twenty-five other clergy, the churchwardens and many parishioners and friends.
In his memorandum of November, 1879, the Rev. W. Gildea states: "The Communion Table is made of oak cut out of the beams of the old Church roof, which were much decayed except in the centre".
"Some of the wood in the reredos was wreck picked up at sea and still has trace of the paint of the vessel to which it belonged. The three panels of the reredos were painted by Miss Hicks, daughter of the architect."
The carved panels on either side of the oak reredos, come from Oberammergau. They are carved in deep relief in lime wood, and are the work of Hans Mayer, the son of Josef Mayer, who on three occasions, in the years 1870, 1880 and 1890, acted "Christus" in the Passion Play.
It was after a lecture on the Passion Play given in Lulworth in 1894, by Mr. Arthur Evans, that the villagers heard of the beautiful wood carving at Oberammergau and decided to start a fund to purchase some for the Church. The panels represent the Birth and Baptism of Jesus, the Crucifixion and the Supper at Emmaus. They were placed there in 1895.
The lectern stem and base contain woods from Europe, Asia, Africa and America. The eagle standing on its globe was executed by Messrs. Case, Strand, London.
The Rev. William Gildea was a keen amateur woodworker. Helped by Mr. Basil Sprague, who turned the wood pillars, capitals and bases, and by Mr. John Chaffey, he executed the altar, reredos woodwork, altar rails and the stem of the lectern.
The beautiful carving of the columns and corbels was done by Mr. Benjamin Grassby of Dorchester and was the gift of Mrs. Gildea. The capitals are of French Early Gothic foliage variety.
The illuminated texts over the arches of the Nave were painted by Mr. Thomas Randall of Hamboro’ Farm, who died a few weeks before completion of the work. Members of the Randall family were churchwardens for over 100 years. Mr. Matthew Randall had been chiefly instrumental in adding an aisle to the old Church, and took a great interest in the building of the new one. Mr. William Randall acted as churchwarden throughout the seventeen years of the Rev. W. Gildea's incumbency.
For several years before his death in 1981, Mr. P. J. Franklin , F.C.LO.B., gave generously of his time and expert knowledge; arranged for the complete redecoration of the church; and for the illuminated texts to be repainted by Mr. F. E. J. Chinchen of Lulworth Camp.
The first couple to be married in the new church, on 16th February, 1871, were James George Dorey, aged 23, and Maria Eliza Saunders, aged 24, grandparents of Mr. Walter Dorey, who is the last of the West Lulworth Doreys, a family whose names appear in the earliest registers from 1745. Unfortunately the older registers dating back to the sixteenth century were destroyed by fire.
The earliest mention of a curate is Sir Peter Rosse, 1553. Later names are: S. Haines, 1753; Benjamin Thomton, 1777; John Bale, 1789; Robert Goodrich, 1803; Franklin Tonkin, 1845; J. G. Fisher, 1847; Edward Dix Wood, 1850; Cornell P. West, 1852; Joseph Maskell, 1855; John Wynne, 1857; W. A. Bayley, 1861.
The continued list of Vicars is behind the Font.
The first, the Rev. William Gildea, was obviously a man of great character and many talents. His wife, five sons. and four daughters, together with his large staff at the Vicarage, centred village life around the Church. There is no doubt that he largely financed the building himself, with the aid of loans from Lord Eldon, the Rev. Eldon Bankes, and Nathaniel Bond, Esq.
The Rev. W. Percy Schuster and his family also had an outstanding influence, and provided the Church with most of its stained-glass windows and many essential adornments.
The Parish Church is now included in the list of buildings of special architectural or historic interest.
Tower
The battlemented tower was completed after the Church was consecrated. It was enlarged in 1888 at a cost of £600; two original bells were cast into one and four added in 1892 and a sixth in 1903. The bellringers were very active and the bells rang out to welcome important visitors, mark notable events, etc. In 1911, 1,260 changes were rung in 43 minutes! The weight of the bells varied from 11 cwts. to 4 cwts. They unfortunately proved too heavy for the Belfry, which was demolished and rebuilt in 1952-53, this time at a cost of £6,000. (See photographs in vestry.) The bells were all sold except the:
Tenor - "Through all the changing scenes of life"
III - "Where sweetly chimes this bell
O' er sea and hill and dell
May Jesus Christ be praised"
both dated 1892.
Without the enthusiasm of Lady Fripp, and much help from Captain Schreiber (see later), the tower might never have been rebuilt. Lady Fripp organized a large fête and raised money in many other ways. She also made many gifts to the Church. Sir Alfred and Lady Fripp came to the Mill House in 1911; later Weston was built for them (designed by Lutyens). His father and uncle, Alfred and George Fripp were both well-known artists and painted beautiful water-colours of the old cottages, the Mill pond, the Cove and the rocks of the spring, before the waterworks took away its charm. Sir Alfred, (surgeon to King Edward VII), and Lady Fripp were most popular in the village, and gladly attended to the health of any local sick children. They are both buried in the Churchyard. The close connection of the family with West Lulworth, happily still continues. The Jubilee Clock, made by Messrs. Potts & Co., of Leeds, at an estimated cost of £130, was added in 1897. The clock chimes were reset by Colonel Robert Hamblin, in memory of his wife, Mary, in 1972. He left a legacy of £1,000 to the Church, to which they were both very devoted and generous.
Stained-Glass Windows
The east window was given by Messrs. R. and J. A. Williams of Bridehead, near Dorchester. The west window was given anonymously in 1898, the stained glass is by Kempe and is exceptionally good - a close composition in sombre colours.
The north and south windows in the Sanctuary are in memory of the Rev. W. P. Schuster’s brother, Herbert L. Schuster, Esq. The window in the Chancel is in memory of his sister, Miss Fanny Emily Schuster, and another brother, the Rev. Edmond Vemon Schuster, Rector of Haughton Dale, Lancashire.
The south window and brass plate near the pulpit recall the Rev. John Henry Lonsdale. He was a keen fisherman, a friend of Alfred Fripp since their student days, and frequently officiated in the Church. He loved Lulworth and the little sailing ships which unloaded coal for the Castle and village at the old store in the Cove. Sometimes their anchors cut adrift and caused serious damage to the fishermen's nets, which at that time were hauled in from the mouth of the Cove to under Bindon Hill by eight men. This delightful window, and also payments for divers from Weymouth to remove anchors and other offending obstacles, were given by relatives and friends of this much-loved Dorset parson.
The other south window in the Nave, by A. C. Moore, is in memory of Isaac Fryer, Esq., who in gratitude for the recovery of health of his daughter in 1874, founded "The Fryer Trust" - for the distribution of coals, cash or clothing in the village at Christmas. Inflation, alas, has now made this Trust of little value. It is administered by the Parish Council. This same daughter, Mrs. Russell, when in Lulworth, lived with her crippled child at "Old Sea View" (now the Mill House). When the child died aged 14, the Rev. W. P. Schuster wrote of her as "One who in her short life, set a bright example of faith and hope and patience amid much bodily suffering".
The two north windows in the Nave are in memory of Maria Theresa Schuster, wife of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, whose memorial plaque is in the Chancel; and of Christopher John Claud Schuster, who was sadly killed in action only three months before the end of the First World War. Aged 19, he was the only son of Sir Claud Schuster, afterwards Baron of Ceme, who lived at Gatton Cottage (now Gatton House) and with his wife is buried in the Churchyard. Sir Claud was a nephew of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, and often read the lessons in the Church. The stained glass is beautiful and portrays St. George slaying the dragon, on the left side, and St. Christopher on the right.
Memorial Plaques
Chancel
John Wordsworth, Bishop of Salisbury, son of Bishop Christopher Wordsworth 'Man of Letters'. He officiated at services whenever he was staying at his seaside home, 'Bishop's Cottage', and was a great friend to everyone in the village. His daughter. Rose Salome, was christened in August, 1900 and his granddaughter, Rosa Jane Pelly, in April, 1931, in the Church. His wife is buried in the Churchyard. The plaque is composed of alabaster and opus sectile, bearing the Diocesan and Wordsworth Arms, executed by Messrs. Powell, Whitefriars, London.
William Percy Schuster, Vicar for 27 years until his death. He and his wife, mother, brothers and sister were devoted to the Church, and their generosity is recorded in many of the old Parish Magazines. He and his wife and his sister, Fanny Emily, are buried in the Churchyard. In 1925 the endowment was increased by £1,000 in his memory, by his wife, Maria Theresa. The plaque is surrounded by alabaster, carved with acoms and oak leaves.
Walter Henry Chaffey. He was a faithful verger and churchwarden for 25 years and a member of the choir for 71 years. Quiet, modest and efficient, keenly interested in ecclesiastical law and anything to do with the Church, he never failed in his duty to it. He came from a long line of Lulworth Chaffeys and many of his family still live in East and West Lulworth. He is buried in the Churchyard.
Nave
The Rev. Benjamin Bodycombe (small crucifix above the pulpit). A widower, he married his second wife in the Church. He suffered much ill-health and died after five years as Vicar, and he and his wife are buried in the Churchyard. He took a great interest in the music, and in young people.
Mary Frances Urquhart. Her husband Major Charles James Urquhart built "Oswalds" (now Bincleaves) and after he died she lived at Spring Cottage.
Florence Rose Mary Robson was daughter of the above and wife of Colonel Henry Denne Robson. They also lived at Oswalds. "She was the life and soul of the village," says one who knew her.
Katherine Williams, wife of Regtl, Quartermaster Sergt. William Henry Williams, son of Robert Williams, one of the fishermen of West Lulworth. Her son by her first marriage was:
John Beare, Lance-Corporal, R.E., who died, aged 25, as a prisoner-of-war in Japan in the Second World War.
North Aisle
William Tucker of St. Andrews, another faithful churchwarden for many years in the time of the Rev. W. P. Schuster. He was a popular local farmer, and is buried in the Churchyard.
Jack Stewart Newcombe, Pilot Officer, R.A.F., aged 21, and his brother Gordon Clifford Newcombe, Lieut., R.N., H.M.S. Glorious, aged 25. Both killed flying. Their mother and step-father, Major and Mrs. Campbell, lived at 8 Coastguard Cottages. They were "Two fine young men".
Lychgate
Captain Frederick Godfrey Schreiber, R. N. (Retd.), built the Lychgate in memory of his wife, Agnes Winifred, who died in 1949. It was dedicated by the Bishop of Salisbury in 1953 and is built of oak with a tiled roof. His own name is now inscribed there too. He died in 1966 after living at Stair House for 33 years. Capt Schreiber was a very generous benefactor, he donated £500 to the rebuilding of the Tower, with which work he was much involved. He gave £1,000 4% Consols to form "The Schreiber Trust" in 1954, which is primarily for the general upkeep of the Churchyard, particularly the Lychgate and the Schreiber grave and monument. The brass altar cross was another gift in memory of his wife.
Churchyard
There are many interesting people buried in the Churchyard, villagers both well-known and lesser-known, who all played their part in shaping the life of West Lulworth.
The old Norman Church, which stood on the north side of the main street, near the village stores, described as "very ancient, the smallest I ever saw" in 1791 by John O'Keefe, had originally one aisle, a low square tower, under which was the gallery, reached from the churchyard by an outside flight of stone steps and a small porch on the south side. In 1842 an extension was made, bringing the outside wall level with the porch and thus giving the Church a curiously lop-sided appearance.
In the gallery sat the choir with its flutes, violins, 'cello and double bass. Much of the music was written by local musicians, and many in the village remember hearing of the parts played by their grandparents.
By 1869 the old Church had become dilapidated and inadequate for the needs of the inhabitants of West Lulworth. It was very close to cottages on either side, and the Rev. William Gildea, curate of Winfrith and later a Canon (non resident) of Salisbury Cathedral, whose living it was, of an annual value of about £130, arranged for the building of the new Church and Vicarage on a far more convenient site.
The new Church of the Holy Trinity was built from the designs of Mr. John Hicks of Dorchester, but owing to his death, was carried out by Mr. R. G. Crickmay of Weymouth, the pulpit, font, prayer desk and other internal fittings being from his designs. Messrs. Wellspring & Son, of Dorchester, were the builders. The Dorset County Chronicle of Thursday, 12th May, 1870 states: "The style is Early Geometrical Gothic, and it is built of Purbeck stone, the carved, moulded and highly finished portions of the stonework generally are of Bath freestone. The material of the old Parish Church was used as much as possible. The letters on the moulding over the east window of the transept (behind the organ) stood over a sixteenth-century window in the north wall of the old Church, and read 'Robertus Lulleworth'" presumably the name of an ancient Lord of the Manor, after whom the village is named. "The rear arch springs from demi-angels bearing shields. In the chancel is an oak bench with carved framing and panels of the seventeenth century, which has been restored." (A photograph of a sketch of the old Church is in the vestry.)
The foundation stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, wife of Nathaniel Bond. Esq., of Holme Priory, the fifth daughter of the Second Earl of Eldon. "The stone itself was found buried a foot or two underground in the old churchyard. It now supports four arches, and underneath it was placed a glass bottle containing a newspaper and one or two coins of the year". The brass plate can be seen behind the base of the lectern, and the inscription reads "This stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, June 1st 1869, William Gildea, Vicar, William Randall, Thomas Randall, Jun.. Churchwardens".
The Church was consecrated by the Bishop of Salisbury, Dr. George Moberley, on 11th May, 1870, "In a fierce gale of wind accompanied by heavy rain", in the presence of twenty-five other clergy, the churchwardens and many parishioners and friends.
In his memorandum of November, 1879, the Rev. W. Gildea states: "The Communion Table is made of oak cut out of the beams of the old Church roof, which were much decayed except in the centre".
"Some of the wood in the reredos was wreck picked up at sea and still has trace of the paint of the vessel to which it belonged. The three panels of the reredos were painted by Miss Hicks, daughter of the architect."
The carved panels on either side of the oak reredos, come from Oberammergau. They are carved in deep relief in lime wood, and are the work of Hans Mayer, the son of Josef Mayer, who on three occasions, in the years 1870, 1880 and 1890, acted "Christus" in the Passion Play.
It was after a lecture on the Passion Play given in Lulworth in 1894, by Mr. Arthur Evans, that the villagers heard of the beautiful wood carving at Oberammergau and decided to start a fund to purchase some for the Church. The panels represent the Birth and Baptism of Jesus, the Crucifixion and the Supper at Emmaus. They were placed there in 1895.
The lectern stem and base contain woods from Europe, Asia, Africa and America. The eagle standing on its globe was executed by Messrs. Case, Strand, London.
The Rev. William Gildea was a keen amateur woodworker. Helped by Mr. Basil Sprague, who turned the wood pillars, capitals and bases, and by Mr. John Chaffey, he executed the altar, reredos woodwork, altar rails and the stem of the lectern.
The beautiful carving of the columns and corbels was done by Mr. Benjamin Grassby of Dorchester and was the gift of Mrs. Gildea. The capitals are of French Early Gothic foliage variety.
The illuminated texts over the arches of the Nave were painted by Mr. Thomas Randall of Hamboro’ Farm, who died a few weeks before completion of the work. Members of the Randall family were churchwardens for over 100 years. Mr. Matthew Randall had been chiefly instrumental in adding an aisle to the old Church, and took a great interest in the building of the new one. Mr. William Randall acted as churchwarden throughout the seventeen years of the Rev. W. Gildea's incumbency.
For several years before his death in 1981, Mr. P. J. Franklin , F.C.LO.B., gave generously of his time and expert knowledge; arranged for the complete redecoration of the church; and for the illuminated texts to be repainted by Mr. F. E. J. Chinchen of Lulworth Camp.
The first couple to be married in the new church, on 16th February, 1871, were James George Dorey, aged 23, and Maria Eliza Saunders, aged 24, grandparents of Mr. Walter Dorey, who is the last of the West Lulworth Doreys, a family whose names appear in the earliest registers from 1745. Unfortunately the older registers dating back to the sixteenth century were destroyed by fire.
The earliest mention of a curate is Sir Peter Rosse, 1553. Later names are: S. Haines, 1753; Benjamin Thomton, 1777; John Bale, 1789; Robert Goodrich, 1803; Franklin Tonkin, 1845; J. G. Fisher, 1847; Edward Dix Wood, 1850; Cornell P. West, 1852; Joseph Maskell, 1855; John Wynne, 1857; W. A. Bayley, 1861.
The continued list of Vicars is behind the Font.
The first, the Rev. William Gildea, was obviously a man of great character and many talents. His wife, five sons. and four daughters, together with his large staff at the Vicarage, centred village life around the Church. There is no doubt that he largely financed the building himself, with the aid of loans from Lord Eldon, the Rev. Eldon Bankes, and Nathaniel Bond, Esq.
The Rev. W. Percy Schuster and his family also had an outstanding influence, and provided the Church with most of its stained-glass windows and many essential adornments.
The Parish Church is now included in the list of buildings of special architectural or historic interest.
Tower
The battlemented tower was completed after the Church was consecrated. It was enlarged in 1888 at a cost of £600; two original bells were cast into one and four added in 1892 and a sixth in 1903. The bellringers were very active and the bells rang out to welcome important visitors, mark notable events, etc. In 1911, 1,260 changes were rung in 43 minutes! The weight of the bells varied from 11 cwts. to 4 cwts. They unfortunately proved too heavy for the Belfry, which was demolished and rebuilt in 1952-53, this time at a cost of £6,000. (See photographs in vestry.) The bells were all sold except the:
Tenor - "Through all the changing scenes of life"
III - "Where sweetly chimes this bell
O' er sea and hill and dell
May Jesus Christ be praised"
both dated 1892.
Without the enthusiasm of Lady Fripp, and much help from Captain Schreiber (see later), the tower might never have been rebuilt. Lady Fripp organized a large fête and raised money in many other ways. She also made many gifts to the Church. Sir Alfred and Lady Fripp came to the Mill House in 1911; later Weston was built for them (designed by Lutyens). His father and uncle, Alfred and George Fripp were both well-known artists and painted beautiful water-colours of the old cottages, the Mill pond, the Cove and the rocks of the spring, before the waterworks took away its charm. Sir Alfred, (surgeon to King Edward VII), and Lady Fripp were most popular in the village, and gladly attended to the health of any local sick children. They are both buried in the Churchyard. The close connection of the family with West Lulworth, happily still continues. The Jubilee Clock, made by Messrs. Potts & Co., of Leeds, at an estimated cost of £130, was added in 1897. The clock chimes were reset by Colonel Robert Hamblin, in memory of his wife, Mary, in 1972. He left a legacy of £1,000 to the Church, to which they were both very devoted and generous.
Stained-Glass Windows
The east window was given by Messrs. R. and J. A. Williams of Bridehead, near Dorchester. The west window was given anonymously in 1898, the stained glass is by Kempe and is exceptionally good - a close composition in sombre colours.
The north and south windows in the Sanctuary are in memory of the Rev. W. P. Schuster’s brother, Herbert L. Schuster, Esq. The window in the Chancel is in memory of his sister, Miss Fanny Emily Schuster, and another brother, the Rev. Edmond Vemon Schuster, Rector of Haughton Dale, Lancashire.
The south window and brass plate near the pulpit recall the Rev. John Henry Lonsdale. He was a keen fisherman, a friend of Alfred Fripp since their student days, and frequently officiated in the Church. He loved Lulworth and the little sailing ships which unloaded coal for the Castle and village at the old store in the Cove. Sometimes their anchors cut adrift and caused serious damage to the fishermen's nets, which at that time were hauled in from the mouth of the Cove to under Bindon Hill by eight men. This delightful window, and also payments for divers from Weymouth to remove anchors and other offending obstacles, were given by relatives and friends of this much-loved Dorset parson.
The other south window in the Nave, by A. C. Moore, is in memory of Isaac Fryer, Esq., who in gratitude for the recovery of health of his daughter in 1874, founded "The Fryer Trust" - for the distribution of coals, cash or clothing in the village at Christmas. Inflation, alas, has now made this Trust of little value. It is administered by the Parish Council. This same daughter, Mrs. Russell, when in Lulworth, lived with her crippled child at "Old Sea View" (now the Mill House). When the child died aged 14, the Rev. W. P. Schuster wrote of her as "One who in her short life, set a bright example of faith and hope and patience amid much bodily suffering".
The two north windows in the Nave are in memory of Maria Theresa Schuster, wife of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, whose memorial plaque is in the Chancel; and of Christopher John Claud Schuster, who was sadly killed in action only three months before the end of the First World War. Aged 19, he was the only son of Sir Claud Schuster, afterwards Baron of Ceme, who lived at Gatton Cottage (now Gatton House) and with his wife is buried in the Churchyard. Sir Claud was a nephew of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, and often read the lessons in the Church. The stained glass is beautiful and portrays St. George slaying the dragon, on the left side, and St. Christopher on the right.
Memorial Plaques
Chancel
John Wordsworth, Bishop of Salisbury, son of Bishop Christopher Wordsworth 'Man of Letters'. He officiated at services whenever he was staying at his seaside home, 'Bishop's Cottage', and was a great friend to everyone in the village. His daughter. Rose Salome, was christened in August, 1900 and his granddaughter, Rosa Jane Pelly, in April, 1931, in the Church. His wife is buried in the Churchyard. The plaque is composed of alabaster and opus sectile, bearing the Diocesan and Wordsworth Arms, executed by Messrs. Powell, Whitefriars, London.
William Percy Schuster, Vicar for 27 years until his death. He and his wife, mother, brothers and sister were devoted to the Church, and their generosity is recorded in many of the old Parish Magazines. He and his wife and his sister, Fanny Emily, are buried in the Churchyard. In 1925 the endowment was increased by £1,000 in his memory, by his wife, Maria Theresa. The plaque is surrounded by alabaster, carved with acoms and oak leaves.
Walter Henry Chaffey. He was a faithful verger and churchwarden for 25 years and a member of the choir for 71 years. Quiet, modest and efficient, keenly interested in ecclesiastical law and anything to do with the Church, he never failed in his duty to it. He came from a long line of Lulworth Chaffeys and many of his family still live in East and West Lulworth. He is buried in the Churchyard.
Nave
The Rev. Benjamin Bodycombe (small crucifix above the pulpit). A widower, he married his second wife in the Church. He suffered much ill-health and died after five years as Vicar, and he and his wife are buried in the Churchyard. He took a great interest in the music, and in young people.
Mary Frances Urquhart. Her husband Major Charles James Urquhart built "Oswalds" (now Bincleaves) and after he died she lived at Spring Cottage.
Florence Rose Mary Robson was daughter of the above and wife of Colonel Henry Denne Robson. They also lived at Oswalds. "She was the life and soul of the village," says one who knew her.
Katherine Williams, wife of Regtl, Quartermaster Sergt. William Henry Williams, son of Robert Williams, one of the fishermen of West Lulworth. Her son by her first marriage was:
John Beare, Lance-Corporal, R.E., who died, aged 25, as a prisoner-of-war in Japan in the Second World War.
North Aisle
William Tucker of St. Andrews, another faithful churchwarden for many years in the time of the Rev. W. P. Schuster. He was a popular local farmer, and is buried in the Churchyard.
Jack Stewart Newcombe, Pilot Officer, R.A.F., aged 21, and his brother Gordon Clifford Newcombe, Lieut., R.N., H.M.S. Glorious, aged 25. Both killed flying. Their mother and step-father, Major and Mrs. Campbell, lived at 8 Coastguard Cottages. They were "Two fine young men".
Lychgate
Captain Frederick Godfrey Schreiber, R. N. (Retd.), built the Lychgate in memory of his wife, Agnes Winifred, who died in 1949. It was dedicated by the Bishop of Salisbury in 1953 and is built of oak with a tiled roof. His own name is now inscribed there too. He died in 1966 after living at Stair House for 33 years. Capt Schreiber was a very generous benefactor, he donated £500 to the rebuilding of the Tower, with which work he was much involved. He gave £1,000 4% Consols to form "The Schreiber Trust" in 1954, which is primarily for the general upkeep of the Churchyard, particularly the Lychgate and the Schreiber grave and monument. The brass altar cross was another gift in memory of his wife.
Churchyard
There are many interesting people buried in the Churchyard, villagers both well-known and lesser-known, who all played their part in shaping the life of West Lulworth.
I berated myself all the way from the banks of the Medway up the A249 to Sittingbourne, telling myself it would be a wasted trip as clearly the church wouldn't be open. I had, in fairness, just struck out three churches in a row that were closed.
I arrived at the church, found a place to park.
There were no ride and stride signs, nothing to indicate it was open.
More dark mutterings to myself.
As I walked to the churchyard, families were coming out of the park next door, workers were clearing ivy from the wall surrounding the churchyard.
The porch gate had a lock on it, as before, but closer inspection showed it to not actually locking the gate. I tried it and the gate opened.
The next door was also unlocked, so I went through, and was in a void before the inner door.
I pushed and it did not yield.
I opened the middle door to let some light in, found the latch, pushed down and the door swung open to reveal a huge space.
To the west was the interior of the huge tower, big enough to fit some churches in. No ropes now hang down to ring bells.
I could find no light switches, so had to make do with natural light, meaning some details might have been missed.
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The massive 14th century tower grabs attention immediately, but just by the door is a most mysterious headstone which commemorates a man killed by a rocket at an early Guy Fawke`s celebration. Inside, the south aisle is almost as wide as the nave and has a rare rood loft staircase that runs in the thickness of the wall rather than up a spiral staircase. There is little stained glass but the east window, by the firm of Ward and Hughes is rather a masterpiece, with most of the subjects being real portraits – especially the figures of St George and St Uriel. An inscription nearby tells the whole story. At the junction of nave and chancel is a rare benefactions board which is carved to look like a memorial – look out for Faith Hope and Charity. The medieval vestry at the north east corner has an original shuttered window – a rare survival indeed, whilst under the huge tower is a benefactions board recording gifts to dredgermen`s widows. Now you don’t find them very often!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Milton+Regis
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MILTON,
OR, more properly, Middleton, lies the next parish north-westward from Sittingborne, last described, and seems to have taken its name from the Saxon Midletun, a name denoting its situation in the middle part of this county.
THE PARISH of Milton is most of it situated on low flat ground, and extends from the high London road as far as the waters of the Swale northward, adjoining to which, the marshes in this parish are both fresh and salt, of a very large extent. In the southern or upper part of the parish, next to the London road, is a small hamlet, called from the soil Chalkwell, in which there are two modern-built houses of the better sort, the lower most of which has a large tan-yard belonging to it; near it there rise some springs, which fill several large ponds, the reservoirs for a corn mill below them, after which they run along the east skirts of the town, which are a continued swamp of watry bogs, into the creek below. The town, antiently called the king's town of Milton, as being part of the antient possessions of the crown, is situated about half a mile from the high London road, at the eastern boundary of the parish, the greatest part of it on the knole of a hill, extending mostly down the east side of it to the head of the creek, which flows north-westward from hence, and at two miles distance, after several meandrings, joins the waters of the Swale. It has a very indifferent character for health, owing both to the badness of the water, and the gross unwholesome air to which it is subject from its watry situation; nor is it in any degree pleasant, the narrow streets, or rather lanes in it, being badly paved, and for the most part inhabited by seafaring persons, fishermen, and oyster-dredgers.
Its commodious situation for navigation near the Swale, to which the town then stood much nearer than it does at present, caused it to be frequented by the Danes, in their piratical excursions into this county, particularly in 893, these pirates, who had been ravaging. France and the Low Countries, being distressed for subsistence, turned their thoughts towards England, for the sake of plunder: for this purpose, with one of their fleets, they sailed up to Apledore, and with the other, consisting of about eighty ships, under the command of Hastings their captain, they entered the mouth of the river Thames, and landing in this parish built themselves a fortress or castle here. Asserius writes, anno 892, Hastengus fecit sibi firmissimum oppidum apud Middeltunam. Sax. Chron. anno 893, interpreted, Arcem extruxit. Simon Dunelm, coll. 151, H. Huntingdon, lib. 5, Florence of Worcester, p. 595, and Chron. Malros, Fecit munitionem. Spelman, in his Life of Alfred, says, Dani castra validis operibus communiunt. This fortress was erected at a place called Kemsleydowne, in the marshes, about midway between the town and the mouth of the creek, the scite of which is still visible, and being overgrown with wood and bushes, has obtained the name of Castberough. (fn. 1) It is of a square form, and is surrounded by a high bank thrown up, and a broad ditch. There is a raised causeway, very plainly to be seen, leading from it towards the seashore. From this fortress they not only made their excursions and plundered the neighbouring country, but secured themselves against such power as the king might send against them.
This town of Milton being part of the royal demesnes, was a cause of its being destroyed by earl Godwin, who being at variance with Edward the Consessor, came here, with a large force, in the year 1052, and burned this town, then of good condition, to the ground; and afterwards ransacked and spoiled many other of the king's estates throughout the county. After which it does not seem to have been ever restored to its former state.
Its condition in the reign of queen Elizabeth may be seen by the survey, made by her order in the 8th year of her reign; by which it appears, that there were then in this town, houses inhabited one hundred and thirty, persons lacking habitations six, landing-places four, one called Fluddmill keye, appertaining to Sir Henry Cheney; the second, Whitlock's key, now the Town key; the third, Reynolds's, now Page's key; and the fourth, Hamond key, appertaining to Thomas Hayward, now Huggins's key; ships and vessels twenty-six, of which twenty were under ten tons; the rest were of twelve, sixteen, and twenty tons; and persons occupied in trade and fishing twenty four.
Since which the town of Milton has considerably increased, as well in the number of its houses and inhabitants, as in its wealth and trade. The number of houses at present is about two hundred and thirty, which are supposed to contain about twelve hundred inhabitants.
The trade of it chiefly consists in the traffic carrying on weekly at the four wharfs in it, where the corn and commodities of the neighbouring country are shipped for London, and goods of every sort brought back again in return; and in the fishery for oysters, a further account of which will be given hereafter. Besides which, the several mills here do not contribute a little to the benefit of this place; four of these are employed in the grinding of corn, and dressing it into flour; and the fifth, called Perrywinckle mill, was some few years ago applied to the manufacturing of pearl-barley, which used to be imported from Holland; and it was supposed to be the only mill in the kingdom where that article was brought to the same perfection as in Holland, but this manufacture for want of due encouragement has been since discontinued.
The town of Milton is governed by a a portreve, who is chosen annually on St. James's day, by the inhabitants of the parish paying church and poor's rates; whose office is, to oversee the market, and preserve good order within the town, and to execute the office of clerk of the market in all matters, within the hundreds of Milton and Marden; he likewise sets the price of all things which come to the keys, or any other creek within the hundred, being such things as head officers in other towns may set the prices on
The market, which is a very plentiful one for all sorts of butchers meat, poultry, &c. is held on a Saturday weekly, at the shambles, in the center of the town. Adjoining to them is the market-house, having a clock, and a bell, which is rung not only for the purpose of the market, but for the calling of the parshioners to church, for funerals, and for occasional parish meetings. At a small distance northward from the shambles is a king of court-house, being a very low old-timbered tenement, where the courts of the manor are kept, and other meetings held; at other times it is made use of as the school house; underneath it is the town prison.
The school is endowed with the annual sum of nine pounds, an account of which may be seen hereafter, among the charitable benefactions to this parish. The master is appointed by the minister and churchwardens. Nine or ten poor boys are taught to read and write in it.
There is a fair, which used to be held on the feast of St. Margaret, July 13, now, by the alteration of the stile, on the 24th of that month, and the two following days.
The lands in this parish, near the town, and especially on the lower or northern part of it, are very rich and sertile. Adjoining to these are the marshes, which extend to the waters of the Swale. Below the hill westward there is another streamlet, which having turned a mill near the vicarage, runs on not far distant from the church, and court-lodge, situated about half a mile northward below the present town, near which the former one destroyed by Earl Godwin is supposed to have once stood.
In the north-west part of this parish, among the marshes, there is a decoy for wild fowl, the only one, that I know of, in this part of the county. The fowl caught in it, are much esteemed for their size and flavor. Great numbers of them are weekly taken and sent up to London.
In this parish, at a small distance northward from Bobbing-place, is a farm called the Quintin farm, which shews that diversion to have been formerly used in it. (fn. 2)
THE FISHERY belonging to the manor and hundred of Milton is of very considerable account. It seems to have been granted by king John, by his charter, in his 7th year, to the abbot and convent of Faversham, by the description of the fisheries of Milton, which the men of Seasalter then held by the yearly rent of twenty shillings, payable at his manor of Milton, and by doing therefrom the customs and service which were wont to be to it.
King Edward III. in his 4th year, confirmed this grant, as did king Henry VI. and this fishery remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was surrendered up into the king's hands, together with all its possessions.
After which, the fee simple of this fishery remained with the manor in the hands of the crown, till the 10th year of king Charles I. when it was passed away, with it, by the words recited in the grant then made of the manor, to Sir Ed. Browne and Christ. Favell, as will be more fully mentioned below; after which, James Herbert, esq. coming into the possession of it, by the settlement of it from his father Philip, earl of Pembroke, he in the 26th year of king Charles II. obtained a fresh grant of this fishery, against which there was a quo warranto brought in the reign of queen Anne, on a petition of the fishermen of Rochester and Stroud, to shew by what authority they, the grantees, kept courts within their manor of Milton, and restrained the fishermen of those and the adjacent towns, from fishing and dredging for oysters within this hundred and manor: but on a trial had at bar, a verdict was given in his favor. Since which it has continued down, in like manner as the manor of Milton, to the right hon. Philip, viscount Wenman, and Mrs. Anne Herbert, who are at this time proprietors of this fishery, together with the manor.
The company of Fishermen, or Dredgers, of this fishery, hold it by lease from the owners of the manor, at the yearly rent of one hundred pounds and four bushels of oysters. They are governed by their particular officers, under certain rules or bye-laws, made by antient custom at the court baron of the manor. There are now about one hundred and forty freemen belonging to it.
The oysters produced from these grounds, within the limits of this fishery, are usually called Milton Natives, and are esteemed the finest and richest flavored of any in Europe. They are supposed to be the same that Juvenal particularly describes, in his fourth satire, as being reckoned a delicacy even in his time, in these words, satire iv. l. 144:
— Rutupinove edita fundo Ostrea, callebat primo deprendere morsu.
The sum usually returned for these oysters is from 3000l. to 7000l. per annum. The Dutch have been supposed by many, to have engrossed this article of luxury; but they expend but a very small part of the above sums, and sometimes none, for the space of seven years together.
IN THE WESTERN PART of this parish there are several hundred acres of coppice-wood, which are adjoining to a much larger tract of the like sort, extending southward almost as far as Binbury pound, on the west side of Stockbury-valley, for the space of near five miles. These woods, especially those in and near this parish, are noted for the great plenty of chesnut stubs interspersed promiscuously throughout them, which, from the quick and strait growth of this king of wood, makes them very valuable. These are so numerous in them, as to give name to most of these woods near Milton, which, besides their particular names to each of them, are usually called by the general name of Chesnut-woods. And in the presentment made of the customs of the manor of Milton in 1575, it is mentioned, that the occupiers of the three mills holden of the manor should gather yearly for the lord of it nine bushels of chestenottes, in Chestnott wood, or pay eighteen-pence by the year to the queen, who then had the manor in her own hands, and was possessed of three hundred acres of chesnut wood within this hundred.
¶These chesnuts are undoubtedly the indigenuous growth of Britain, planted by the hand of nature. They are interspersed throughout the whole tract, without any form or regularity, and are many of them, by their appearance, of great age; and by numbers of them, which now seem almost worn out and perishing, being made use of as the termini or boundaries, as well of private property as of parishes, it is plain they were first pitched upon, in preference to others, for that purpose, as being the largest and most antient ones of any then existing; and as these are hardly ever cut down or altered, they must have stood sacred to this use from the first introduction of private property into this kingdom, and the first division of it into parishes. Four letters were printed in 1771, after having been read before the Royal Society, two of which were written by Dr. Ducarel, and the other two by Mr. Thorpe and Mr. Hasted, to prove that chesnut-trees were the indigenous growth of this kingdom, in answer to an idea of the hon. Daines Barrington, who had a wish to establish a contrary opinion.
DR. PLOT says, that Herba Britannica, which Twyne and Johnson think to be bistort, Trisolium acetosum, or Oxys; Empetron, quæ est petrafindula Britanniæ prope peculiaris, and Crocus, were found at Milton by Scribonius Largus, when he came into Britain with the emperor Claudius. And he further says, that Crocus sativus, saffron, was heretofore sown and gathered (as now at Walden, in Essex) at Milton, and quotes for his authority, a manuscript rental of the manor of Milton, in the library of Christ-church, Canterbury.
MILTON is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Sittingborne.
The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It is a large handsome building, consisting of two isles and two chancels, the southernmost of which belongs to the manor of Northwood. It has a well built tower at the west end, in which are five bells. In this church, among others, were formerly the arms of Barry, Diggs, Finch, of the Five Ports, of Norwood and Norton, with their several crests, trophies, and banners; of Marten quartering Boteler; one coat, Barry, argent and azure, on a canton of the first, a bird of the second; Argent, three bends azure, within a bordure, eight mullets; Gules, a fess or, between three mullets, argent; and in one of the windows, a man kneeling, with a coat of arms, Six lions rampant, three and three, and underneath, Orate paia Guliel Savage Armigi.
Mauricius ap John, rector of St. George's, in Exeter, was buried in the choir of this church, as appears by his will, anno 1499.
In the year 1070, being the 5th year of his reign, William the Conqueror gave to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, the church of Middelton, and the tenths of all the products accruing from that manor, and the tenths of all its appurtenances, of the land, wood, meadows, and water, excepting the tenths of honey, and rent paid in money. (fn. 12)
Pope Lucius XI. in 1144, at the petition of abbot Hugh de Trottesclive, confirmed the annual pension of ten marcs from this church to that abbey.
In 1168, the conventual church of St. Augustine was the greatest part of it burnt; on which account this church was allotted to the sacristy there, for the repair of it. (fn. 13) But they did not keep it long, for in 1178, at the king's instance, they gave it up, and lost all property both in the church, and the advowson of it. A composition was entered into between the archbishop and the abbot in 1182, concerning the privileges and exemptions of the latter; when it was agreed, that the archdeacon, or his official, should receive his accustomed dues and procurations from the churches of St. Augustine, excepting those of Minster, Northborne, and Chistelet, and from this church likewise, when the monks should again get possession of the appropriation of it.
Four years after which, the abbot demised to the prioress of St. Sexburg of Shepey, the tiches which his monastery possessed, in right of this church, in Bobbing, at the yearly rent of ten shillings, on condition that all housekeepers, which should be on the estates from which they arose, should yearly repair to this the mother church, with their oblations, on Christmas-day, the Purification, and Easter day. And in 1188, the abbot demised to the prioress there, the tenths of Westlonde, within her parish, for the rent of fourteen shillings, payable yearly to the sacrist of St. Augustine.
About the year 1198, the abbot and convent recovered this church, which was then become vacant by the death of one Franco, the person to whom they had given it up, at the instance of king Henry. But they had kept it but a small time, before the archbishop disturbed them in their possession of it. However, by the mediation of mutual friends, and at the king's request, that he would not molest them in their appropriation of it; he out of respect to the king, ratified this church to them, to be possessed by them for ever. (fn. 14)
There was a pension of forty shillings payably yearly from this church, with the chapel belonging to it, to the above monastery, which, with the other pensions from their several churches, was given up by agreement in 1242, for a compensation out of the profits of the church of Preston.
The abbot and convent, among the extensive privileges from the papal see, had obtained an exemption from all archiepiscopal authority, and about the year 1295 made an institution of several new deanries, and apportioned the several churches belonging to his monastery, to each of them, according to their vicinity; one of these was the deanry of Lenham, in which this church was included. This raised great contests with the several archbishops, and after more than five years altercation, the abbot was stripped of these exemptions, and was declared, by the pope's bull, to be subject to the archbishop's jurisdiction, in like manner as before; which entirely dissolved these new deanries, and that of Lenham among them. (fn. 15)
Notwithstanding the abbot and convent seem to have held the appropriation of this church almost from held the appropriation of this church almost from the first grant of it, and though there had been vicars instituted to it long before this time, for Robert de Wikes, who stiles himself vicar of Middelton, by his deed in 1247, granted seven deywerks of land, with the houses built on it, for the habitation of the vicar of Middelton, for the time being; and the abbot and convent had in 1286, assigned a portion for the maintenance of the vicar here; yet there does not appear to have been any regular endowment of a vicarage to it, till the reign of king Edward III. when archbishop Stratford, in 1345, anno 20 Edward III. by his instrument, decreed, that the vicar of the church of Middelton, and his successors, should have the usual mansion of the vicarage, with the garden adjoining to it, together with one acre of the glebe of the same; and that he should have, in the name of the vicarage, all manner of oblations in the church of Middelton, and in all places, situated within the bounds and limits or titheable places of it; and that they should have in the name of the vicarage, all tithes of sylva cædua, wool, lambs, calves, pigs, ducks, geese, swans, pidgeons, cheese, milk-meats, herbage, apples, pears, and other fruit, growing in gardens and orchards, pulse, flax, hemp, eggs, rushes, merchandizes, and of all mills built, or which might in future be built, within the bounds and limits or titheable places of the church, and all other small tithes whatsoever belonging to it, and all legacies left in future to it, which the rectors or vicars of it might of right or custom take; also, that the vicars, in right of the vicarage, should have of the religious, the annual pension of 4s. (fn. 16) sterling, one seam or quarter of corn, and three quarters or seams of barley, on the feast of St. Michael, at Middelton, by them to be yearly paid, on pain of the sequestration of the fruits and profits of the church, belonging to the religious, to be laid on as often and whenever they should cease in the payment of the pension or barley, or should not pay either of them in the time above-mentioned.
But that the vicars should undergo the burthen of serving by themselves, or some other fit priest, the church in divine services, in the finding of one lamp, to burn before the altar of St. Mary there, and the ministering of bread, wine, lights, and other things, which should be necessary for the celebration of divine rights in the church. The burthen likewise of the payment of tenths and other impositions, whenever they might be imposed on the English church, or incumbent on the church, for the taxation of twelve marcs, beyond the burthens allotted to the religious underneath, they should undergo at their own costs and expences.
But the burthen of the reparation and rebuilding of the chancel of the church, both within and without, and also the finding and repairing of books and vestments, and ornaments of the church, which were wont or ought of right or custom, to be found and repaired by the rectors of churches, and all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, incumbent on the church, the religious should undergo and acknowledge for ever, &c. (fn. 17)
The church and vicarage, after this, remained part of the possessions of the monastery, till the final dissolution of it, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was, with all its revenues, surrendered up into the king's hands, who by his dotation-charter, in his 33d year, settled both the appropriation of this church, and the advowson of the vicarage, among other premises, on his new-founded dean and chapter of Christchurch, Canterbury, with whom the inheritance of the parsonage still remains, the interest in the lease of it being now in the heirs of John Cockin Sole, esq. deceased, but the advowson of the vicarage the dean and chapter retain in their own hands, and are the present patrons of it.
The vicarage of Milton is valued in the king's books at 13l. 2s. 6d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 6s. 3d.
¶In 1578, there were here, dwelling-houses on hundred and eight, communicants three hundred and seventy-four. In 1640 this vicarage was valued at eighty pounds. Communicants five hundred and twenty-nine.
The antient annual pension of four shillings, one quarter of wheat, and three quarters of barley, stipulated to be paid by the religious as before-mentioned, still continues to be paid by the lessee of the parsonage, by the covenants of his lease.
The agreement made between the prior of the brethren of the hospital of St. John of Jersalem and the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, about king Henry the IId.'s reign, that whenever their chapel of Rodmersham should be dedicated, and the cemetery consecrated, they would diminish by it none of the mother church of Middleton's rights; has already been more fully mentioned in the account of that parish before. (fn. 18)
I berated myself all the way from the banks of the Medway up the A249 to Sittingbourne, telling myself it would be a wasted trip as clearly the church wouldn't be open. I had, in fairness, just struck out three churches in a row that were closed.
I arrived at the church, found a place to park.
There were no ride and stride signs, nothing to indicate it was open.
More dark mutterings to myself.
As I walked to the churchyard, families were coming out of the park next door, workers were clearing ivy from the wall surrounding the churchyard.
The porch gate had a lock on it, as before, but closer inspection showed it to not actually locking the gate. I tried it and the gate opened.
The next door was also unlocked, so I went through, and was in a void before the inner door.
I pushed and it did not yield.
I opened the middle door to let some light in, found the latch, pushed down and the door swung open to reveal a huge space.
To the west was the interior of the huge tower, big enough to fit some churches in. No ropes now hang down to ring bells.
I could find no light switches, so had to make do with natural light, meaning some details might have been missed.
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The massive 14th century tower grabs attention immediately, but just by the door is a most mysterious headstone which commemorates a man killed by a rocket at an early Guy Fawke`s celebration. Inside, the south aisle is almost as wide as the nave and has a rare rood loft staircase that runs in the thickness of the wall rather than up a spiral staircase. There is little stained glass but the east window, by the firm of Ward and Hughes is rather a masterpiece, with most of the subjects being real portraits – especially the figures of St George and St Uriel. An inscription nearby tells the whole story. At the junction of nave and chancel is a rare benefactions board which is carved to look like a memorial – look out for Faith Hope and Charity. The medieval vestry at the north east corner has an original shuttered window – a rare survival indeed, whilst under the huge tower is a benefactions board recording gifts to dredgermen`s widows. Now you don’t find them very often!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Milton+Regis
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MILTON,
OR, more properly, Middleton, lies the next parish north-westward from Sittingborne, last described, and seems to have taken its name from the Saxon Midletun, a name denoting its situation in the middle part of this county.
THE PARISH of Milton is most of it situated on low flat ground, and extends from the high London road as far as the waters of the Swale northward, adjoining to which, the marshes in this parish are both fresh and salt, of a very large extent. In the southern or upper part of the parish, next to the London road, is a small hamlet, called from the soil Chalkwell, in which there are two modern-built houses of the better sort, the lower most of which has a large tan-yard belonging to it; near it there rise some springs, which fill several large ponds, the reservoirs for a corn mill below them, after which they run along the east skirts of the town, which are a continued swamp of watry bogs, into the creek below. The town, antiently called the king's town of Milton, as being part of the antient possessions of the crown, is situated about half a mile from the high London road, at the eastern boundary of the parish, the greatest part of it on the knole of a hill, extending mostly down the east side of it to the head of the creek, which flows north-westward from hence, and at two miles distance, after several meandrings, joins the waters of the Swale. It has a very indifferent character for health, owing both to the badness of the water, and the gross unwholesome air to which it is subject from its watry situation; nor is it in any degree pleasant, the narrow streets, or rather lanes in it, being badly paved, and for the most part inhabited by seafaring persons, fishermen, and oyster-dredgers.
Its commodious situation for navigation near the Swale, to which the town then stood much nearer than it does at present, caused it to be frequented by the Danes, in their piratical excursions into this county, particularly in 893, these pirates, who had been ravaging. France and the Low Countries, being distressed for subsistence, turned their thoughts towards England, for the sake of plunder: for this purpose, with one of their fleets, they sailed up to Apledore, and with the other, consisting of about eighty ships, under the command of Hastings their captain, they entered the mouth of the river Thames, and landing in this parish built themselves a fortress or castle here. Asserius writes, anno 892, Hastengus fecit sibi firmissimum oppidum apud Middeltunam. Sax. Chron. anno 893, interpreted, Arcem extruxit. Simon Dunelm, coll. 151, H. Huntingdon, lib. 5, Florence of Worcester, p. 595, and Chron. Malros, Fecit munitionem. Spelman, in his Life of Alfred, says, Dani castra validis operibus communiunt. This fortress was erected at a place called Kemsleydowne, in the marshes, about midway between the town and the mouth of the creek, the scite of which is still visible, and being overgrown with wood and bushes, has obtained the name of Castberough. (fn. 1) It is of a square form, and is surrounded by a high bank thrown up, and a broad ditch. There is a raised causeway, very plainly to be seen, leading from it towards the seashore. From this fortress they not only made their excursions and plundered the neighbouring country, but secured themselves against such power as the king might send against them.
This town of Milton being part of the royal demesnes, was a cause of its being destroyed by earl Godwin, who being at variance with Edward the Consessor, came here, with a large force, in the year 1052, and burned this town, then of good condition, to the ground; and afterwards ransacked and spoiled many other of the king's estates throughout the county. After which it does not seem to have been ever restored to its former state.
Its condition in the reign of queen Elizabeth may be seen by the survey, made by her order in the 8th year of her reign; by which it appears, that there were then in this town, houses inhabited one hundred and thirty, persons lacking habitations six, landing-places four, one called Fluddmill keye, appertaining to Sir Henry Cheney; the second, Whitlock's key, now the Town key; the third, Reynolds's, now Page's key; and the fourth, Hamond key, appertaining to Thomas Hayward, now Huggins's key; ships and vessels twenty-six, of which twenty were under ten tons; the rest were of twelve, sixteen, and twenty tons; and persons occupied in trade and fishing twenty four.
Since which the town of Milton has considerably increased, as well in the number of its houses and inhabitants, as in its wealth and trade. The number of houses at present is about two hundred and thirty, which are supposed to contain about twelve hundred inhabitants.
The trade of it chiefly consists in the traffic carrying on weekly at the four wharfs in it, where the corn and commodities of the neighbouring country are shipped for London, and goods of every sort brought back again in return; and in the fishery for oysters, a further account of which will be given hereafter. Besides which, the several mills here do not contribute a little to the benefit of this place; four of these are employed in the grinding of corn, and dressing it into flour; and the fifth, called Perrywinckle mill, was some few years ago applied to the manufacturing of pearl-barley, which used to be imported from Holland; and it was supposed to be the only mill in the kingdom where that article was brought to the same perfection as in Holland, but this manufacture for want of due encouragement has been since discontinued.
The town of Milton is governed by a a portreve, who is chosen annually on St. James's day, by the inhabitants of the parish paying church and poor's rates; whose office is, to oversee the market, and preserve good order within the town, and to execute the office of clerk of the market in all matters, within the hundreds of Milton and Marden; he likewise sets the price of all things which come to the keys, or any other creek within the hundred, being such things as head officers in other towns may set the prices on
The market, which is a very plentiful one for all sorts of butchers meat, poultry, &c. is held on a Saturday weekly, at the shambles, in the center of the town. Adjoining to them is the market-house, having a clock, and a bell, which is rung not only for the purpose of the market, but for the calling of the parshioners to church, for funerals, and for occasional parish meetings. At a small distance northward from the shambles is a king of court-house, being a very low old-timbered tenement, where the courts of the manor are kept, and other meetings held; at other times it is made use of as the school house; underneath it is the town prison.
The school is endowed with the annual sum of nine pounds, an account of which may be seen hereafter, among the charitable benefactions to this parish. The master is appointed by the minister and churchwardens. Nine or ten poor boys are taught to read and write in it.
There is a fair, which used to be held on the feast of St. Margaret, July 13, now, by the alteration of the stile, on the 24th of that month, and the two following days.
The lands in this parish, near the town, and especially on the lower or northern part of it, are very rich and sertile. Adjoining to these are the marshes, which extend to the waters of the Swale. Below the hill westward there is another streamlet, which having turned a mill near the vicarage, runs on not far distant from the church, and court-lodge, situated about half a mile northward below the present town, near which the former one destroyed by Earl Godwin is supposed to have once stood.
In the north-west part of this parish, among the marshes, there is a decoy for wild fowl, the only one, that I know of, in this part of the county. The fowl caught in it, are much esteemed for their size and flavor. Great numbers of them are weekly taken and sent up to London.
In this parish, at a small distance northward from Bobbing-place, is a farm called the Quintin farm, which shews that diversion to have been formerly used in it. (fn. 2)
THE FISHERY belonging to the manor and hundred of Milton is of very considerable account. It seems to have been granted by king John, by his charter, in his 7th year, to the abbot and convent of Faversham, by the description of the fisheries of Milton, which the men of Seasalter then held by the yearly rent of twenty shillings, payable at his manor of Milton, and by doing therefrom the customs and service which were wont to be to it.
King Edward III. in his 4th year, confirmed this grant, as did king Henry VI. and this fishery remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was surrendered up into the king's hands, together with all its possessions.
After which, the fee simple of this fishery remained with the manor in the hands of the crown, till the 10th year of king Charles I. when it was passed away, with it, by the words recited in the grant then made of the manor, to Sir Ed. Browne and Christ. Favell, as will be more fully mentioned below; after which, James Herbert, esq. coming into the possession of it, by the settlement of it from his father Philip, earl of Pembroke, he in the 26th year of king Charles II. obtained a fresh grant of this fishery, against which there was a quo warranto brought in the reign of queen Anne, on a petition of the fishermen of Rochester and Stroud, to shew by what authority they, the grantees, kept courts within their manor of Milton, and restrained the fishermen of those and the adjacent towns, from fishing and dredging for oysters within this hundred and manor: but on a trial had at bar, a verdict was given in his favor. Since which it has continued down, in like manner as the manor of Milton, to the right hon. Philip, viscount Wenman, and Mrs. Anne Herbert, who are at this time proprietors of this fishery, together with the manor.
The company of Fishermen, or Dredgers, of this fishery, hold it by lease from the owners of the manor, at the yearly rent of one hundred pounds and four bushels of oysters. They are governed by their particular officers, under certain rules or bye-laws, made by antient custom at the court baron of the manor. There are now about one hundred and forty freemen belonging to it.
The oysters produced from these grounds, within the limits of this fishery, are usually called Milton Natives, and are esteemed the finest and richest flavored of any in Europe. They are supposed to be the same that Juvenal particularly describes, in his fourth satire, as being reckoned a delicacy even in his time, in these words, satire iv. l. 144:
— Rutupinove edita fundo Ostrea, callebat primo deprendere morsu.
The sum usually returned for these oysters is from 3000l. to 7000l. per annum. The Dutch have been supposed by many, to have engrossed this article of luxury; but they expend but a very small part of the above sums, and sometimes none, for the space of seven years together.
IN THE WESTERN PART of this parish there are several hundred acres of coppice-wood, which are adjoining to a much larger tract of the like sort, extending southward almost as far as Binbury pound, on the west side of Stockbury-valley, for the space of near five miles. These woods, especially those in and near this parish, are noted for the great plenty of chesnut stubs interspersed promiscuously throughout them, which, from the quick and strait growth of this king of wood, makes them very valuable. These are so numerous in them, as to give name to most of these woods near Milton, which, besides their particular names to each of them, are usually called by the general name of Chesnut-woods. And in the presentment made of the customs of the manor of Milton in 1575, it is mentioned, that the occupiers of the three mills holden of the manor should gather yearly for the lord of it nine bushels of chestenottes, in Chestnott wood, or pay eighteen-pence by the year to the queen, who then had the manor in her own hands, and was possessed of three hundred acres of chesnut wood within this hundred.
¶These chesnuts are undoubtedly the indigenuous growth of Britain, planted by the hand of nature. They are interspersed throughout the whole tract, without any form or regularity, and are many of them, by their appearance, of great age; and by numbers of them, which now seem almost worn out and perishing, being made use of as the termini or boundaries, as well of private property as of parishes, it is plain they were first pitched upon, in preference to others, for that purpose, as being the largest and most antient ones of any then existing; and as these are hardly ever cut down or altered, they must have stood sacred to this use from the first introduction of private property into this kingdom, and the first division of it into parishes. Four letters were printed in 1771, after having been read before the Royal Society, two of which were written by Dr. Ducarel, and the other two by Mr. Thorpe and Mr. Hasted, to prove that chesnut-trees were the indigenous growth of this kingdom, in answer to an idea of the hon. Daines Barrington, who had a wish to establish a contrary opinion.
DR. PLOT says, that Herba Britannica, which Twyne and Johnson think to be bistort, Trisolium acetosum, or Oxys; Empetron, quæ est petrafindula Britanniæ prope peculiaris, and Crocus, were found at Milton by Scribonius Largus, when he came into Britain with the emperor Claudius. And he further says, that Crocus sativus, saffron, was heretofore sown and gathered (as now at Walden, in Essex) at Milton, and quotes for his authority, a manuscript rental of the manor of Milton, in the library of Christ-church, Canterbury.
MILTON is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Sittingborne.
The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It is a large handsome building, consisting of two isles and two chancels, the southernmost of which belongs to the manor of Northwood. It has a well built tower at the west end, in which are five bells. In this church, among others, were formerly the arms of Barry, Diggs, Finch, of the Five Ports, of Norwood and Norton, with their several crests, trophies, and banners; of Marten quartering Boteler; one coat, Barry, argent and azure, on a canton of the first, a bird of the second; Argent, three bends azure, within a bordure, eight mullets; Gules, a fess or, between three mullets, argent; and in one of the windows, a man kneeling, with a coat of arms, Six lions rampant, three and three, and underneath, Orate paia Guliel Savage Armigi.
Mauricius ap John, rector of St. George's, in Exeter, was buried in the choir of this church, as appears by his will, anno 1499.
In the year 1070, being the 5th year of his reign, William the Conqueror gave to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, the church of Middelton, and the tenths of all the products accruing from that manor, and the tenths of all its appurtenances, of the land, wood, meadows, and water, excepting the tenths of honey, and rent paid in money. (fn. 12)
Pope Lucius XI. in 1144, at the petition of abbot Hugh de Trottesclive, confirmed the annual pension of ten marcs from this church to that abbey.
In 1168, the conventual church of St. Augustine was the greatest part of it burnt; on which account this church was allotted to the sacristy there, for the repair of it. (fn. 13) But they did not keep it long, for in 1178, at the king's instance, they gave it up, and lost all property both in the church, and the advowson of it. A composition was entered into between the archbishop and the abbot in 1182, concerning the privileges and exemptions of the latter; when it was agreed, that the archdeacon, or his official, should receive his accustomed dues and procurations from the churches of St. Augustine, excepting those of Minster, Northborne, and Chistelet, and from this church likewise, when the monks should again get possession of the appropriation of it.
Four years after which, the abbot demised to the prioress of St. Sexburg of Shepey, the tiches which his monastery possessed, in right of this church, in Bobbing, at the yearly rent of ten shillings, on condition that all housekeepers, which should be on the estates from which they arose, should yearly repair to this the mother church, with their oblations, on Christmas-day, the Purification, and Easter day. And in 1188, the abbot demised to the prioress there, the tenths of Westlonde, within her parish, for the rent of fourteen shillings, payable yearly to the sacrist of St. Augustine.
About the year 1198, the abbot and convent recovered this church, which was then become vacant by the death of one Franco, the person to whom they had given it up, at the instance of king Henry. But they had kept it but a small time, before the archbishop disturbed them in their possession of it. However, by the mediation of mutual friends, and at the king's request, that he would not molest them in their appropriation of it; he out of respect to the king, ratified this church to them, to be possessed by them for ever. (fn. 14)
There was a pension of forty shillings payably yearly from this church, with the chapel belonging to it, to the above monastery, which, with the other pensions from their several churches, was given up by agreement in 1242, for a compensation out of the profits of the church of Preston.
The abbot and convent, among the extensive privileges from the papal see, had obtained an exemption from all archiepiscopal authority, and about the year 1295 made an institution of several new deanries, and apportioned the several churches belonging to his monastery, to each of them, according to their vicinity; one of these was the deanry of Lenham, in which this church was included. This raised great contests with the several archbishops, and after more than five years altercation, the abbot was stripped of these exemptions, and was declared, by the pope's bull, to be subject to the archbishop's jurisdiction, in like manner as before; which entirely dissolved these new deanries, and that of Lenham among them. (fn. 15)
Notwithstanding the abbot and convent seem to have held the appropriation of this church almost from held the appropriation of this church almost from the first grant of it, and though there had been vicars instituted to it long before this time, for Robert de Wikes, who stiles himself vicar of Middelton, by his deed in 1247, granted seven deywerks of land, with the houses built on it, for the habitation of the vicar of Middelton, for the time being; and the abbot and convent had in 1286, assigned a portion for the maintenance of the vicar here; yet there does not appear to have been any regular endowment of a vicarage to it, till the reign of king Edward III. when archbishop Stratford, in 1345, anno 20 Edward III. by his instrument, decreed, that the vicar of the church of Middelton, and his successors, should have the usual mansion of the vicarage, with the garden adjoining to it, together with one acre of the glebe of the same; and that he should have, in the name of the vicarage, all manner of oblations in the church of Middelton, and in all places, situated within the bounds and limits or titheable places of it; and that they should have in the name of the vicarage, all tithes of sylva cædua, wool, lambs, calves, pigs, ducks, geese, swans, pidgeons, cheese, milk-meats, herbage, apples, pears, and other fruit, growing in gardens and orchards, pulse, flax, hemp, eggs, rushes, merchandizes, and of all mills built, or which might in future be built, within the bounds and limits or titheable places of the church, and all other small tithes whatsoever belonging to it, and all legacies left in future to it, which the rectors or vicars of it might of right or custom take; also, that the vicars, in right of the vicarage, should have of the religious, the annual pension of 4s. (fn. 16) sterling, one seam or quarter of corn, and three quarters or seams of barley, on the feast of St. Michael, at Middelton, by them to be yearly paid, on pain of the sequestration of the fruits and profits of the church, belonging to the religious, to be laid on as often and whenever they should cease in the payment of the pension or barley, or should not pay either of them in the time above-mentioned.
But that the vicars should undergo the burthen of serving by themselves, or some other fit priest, the church in divine services, in the finding of one lamp, to burn before the altar of St. Mary there, and the ministering of bread, wine, lights, and other things, which should be necessary for the celebration of divine rights in the church. The burthen likewise of the payment of tenths and other impositions, whenever they might be imposed on the English church, or incumbent on the church, for the taxation of twelve marcs, beyond the burthens allotted to the religious underneath, they should undergo at their own costs and expences.
But the burthen of the reparation and rebuilding of the chancel of the church, both within and without, and also the finding and repairing of books and vestments, and ornaments of the church, which were wont or ought of right or custom, to be found and repaired by the rectors of churches, and all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, incumbent on the church, the religious should undergo and acknowledge for ever, &c. (fn. 17)
The church and vicarage, after this, remained part of the possessions of the monastery, till the final dissolution of it, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was, with all its revenues, surrendered up into the king's hands, who by his dotation-charter, in his 33d year, settled both the appropriation of this church, and the advowson of the vicarage, among other premises, on his new-founded dean and chapter of Christchurch, Canterbury, with whom the inheritance of the parsonage still remains, the interest in the lease of it being now in the heirs of John Cockin Sole, esq. deceased, but the advowson of the vicarage the dean and chapter retain in their own hands, and are the present patrons of it.
The vicarage of Milton is valued in the king's books at 13l. 2s. 6d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 6s. 3d.
¶In 1578, there were here, dwelling-houses on hundred and eight, communicants three hundred and seventy-four. In 1640 this vicarage was valued at eighty pounds. Communicants five hundred and twenty-nine.
The antient annual pension of four shillings, one quarter of wheat, and three quarters of barley, stipulated to be paid by the religious as before-mentioned, still continues to be paid by the lessee of the parsonage, by the covenants of his lease.
The agreement made between the prior of the brethren of the hospital of St. John of Jersalem and the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, about king Henry the IId.'s reign, that whenever their chapel of Rodmersham should be dedicated, and the cemetery consecrated, they would diminish by it none of the mother church of Middleton's rights; has already been more fully mentioned in the account of that parish before. (fn. 18)
I berated myself all the way from the banks of the Medway up the A249 to Sittingbourne, telling myself it would be a wasted trip as clearly the church wouldn't be open. I had, in fairness, just struck out three churches in a row that were closed.
I arrived at the church, found a place to park.
There were no ride and stride signs, nothing to indicate it was open.
More dark mutterings to myself.
As I walked to the churchyard, families were coming out of the park next door, workers were clearing ivy from the wall surrounding the churchyard.
The porch gate had a lock on it, as before, but closer inspection showed it to not actually locking the gate. I tried it and the gate opened.
The next door was also unlocked, so I went through, and was in a void before the inner door.
I pushed and it did not yield.
I opened the middle door to let some light in, found the latch, pushed down and the door swung open to reveal a huge space.
To the west was the interior of the huge tower, big enough to fit some churches in. No ropes now hang down to ring bells.
I could find no light switches, so had to make do with natural light, meaning some details might have been missed.
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The massive 14th century tower grabs attention immediately, but just by the door is a most mysterious headstone which commemorates a man killed by a rocket at an early Guy Fawke`s celebration. Inside, the south aisle is almost as wide as the nave and has a rare rood loft staircase that runs in the thickness of the wall rather than up a spiral staircase. There is little stained glass but the east window, by the firm of Ward and Hughes is rather a masterpiece, with most of the subjects being real portraits – especially the figures of St George and St Uriel. An inscription nearby tells the whole story. At the junction of nave and chancel is a rare benefactions board which is carved to look like a memorial – look out for Faith Hope and Charity. The medieval vestry at the north east corner has an original shuttered window – a rare survival indeed, whilst under the huge tower is a benefactions board recording gifts to dredgermen`s widows. Now you don’t find them very often!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Milton+Regis
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MILTON,
OR, more properly, Middleton, lies the next parish north-westward from Sittingborne, last described, and seems to have taken its name from the Saxon Midletun, a name denoting its situation in the middle part of this county.
THE PARISH of Milton is most of it situated on low flat ground, and extends from the high London road as far as the waters of the Swale northward, adjoining to which, the marshes in this parish are both fresh and salt, of a very large extent. In the southern or upper part of the parish, next to the London road, is a small hamlet, called from the soil Chalkwell, in which there are two modern-built houses of the better sort, the lower most of which has a large tan-yard belonging to it; near it there rise some springs, which fill several large ponds, the reservoirs for a corn mill below them, after which they run along the east skirts of the town, which are a continued swamp of watry bogs, into the creek below. The town, antiently called the king's town of Milton, as being part of the antient possessions of the crown, is situated about half a mile from the high London road, at the eastern boundary of the parish, the greatest part of it on the knole of a hill, extending mostly down the east side of it to the head of the creek, which flows north-westward from hence, and at two miles distance, after several meandrings, joins the waters of the Swale. It has a very indifferent character for health, owing both to the badness of the water, and the gross unwholesome air to which it is subject from its watry situation; nor is it in any degree pleasant, the narrow streets, or rather lanes in it, being badly paved, and for the most part inhabited by seafaring persons, fishermen, and oyster-dredgers.
Its commodious situation for navigation near the Swale, to which the town then stood much nearer than it does at present, caused it to be frequented by the Danes, in their piratical excursions into this county, particularly in 893, these pirates, who had been ravaging. France and the Low Countries, being distressed for subsistence, turned their thoughts towards England, for the sake of plunder: for this purpose, with one of their fleets, they sailed up to Apledore, and with the other, consisting of about eighty ships, under the command of Hastings their captain, they entered the mouth of the river Thames, and landing in this parish built themselves a fortress or castle here. Asserius writes, anno 892, Hastengus fecit sibi firmissimum oppidum apud Middeltunam. Sax. Chron. anno 893, interpreted, Arcem extruxit. Simon Dunelm, coll. 151, H. Huntingdon, lib. 5, Florence of Worcester, p. 595, and Chron. Malros, Fecit munitionem. Spelman, in his Life of Alfred, says, Dani castra validis operibus communiunt. This fortress was erected at a place called Kemsleydowne, in the marshes, about midway between the town and the mouth of the creek, the scite of which is still visible, and being overgrown with wood and bushes, has obtained the name of Castberough. (fn. 1) It is of a square form, and is surrounded by a high bank thrown up, and a broad ditch. There is a raised causeway, very plainly to be seen, leading from it towards the seashore. From this fortress they not only made their excursions and plundered the neighbouring country, but secured themselves against such power as the king might send against them.
This town of Milton being part of the royal demesnes, was a cause of its being destroyed by earl Godwin, who being at variance with Edward the Consessor, came here, with a large force, in the year 1052, and burned this town, then of good condition, to the ground; and afterwards ransacked and spoiled many other of the king's estates throughout the county. After which it does not seem to have been ever restored to its former state.
Its condition in the reign of queen Elizabeth may be seen by the survey, made by her order in the 8th year of her reign; by which it appears, that there were then in this town, houses inhabited one hundred and thirty, persons lacking habitations six, landing-places four, one called Fluddmill keye, appertaining to Sir Henry Cheney; the second, Whitlock's key, now the Town key; the third, Reynolds's, now Page's key; and the fourth, Hamond key, appertaining to Thomas Hayward, now Huggins's key; ships and vessels twenty-six, of which twenty were under ten tons; the rest were of twelve, sixteen, and twenty tons; and persons occupied in trade and fishing twenty four.
Since which the town of Milton has considerably increased, as well in the number of its houses and inhabitants, as in its wealth and trade. The number of houses at present is about two hundred and thirty, which are supposed to contain about twelve hundred inhabitants.
The trade of it chiefly consists in the traffic carrying on weekly at the four wharfs in it, where the corn and commodities of the neighbouring country are shipped for London, and goods of every sort brought back again in return; and in the fishery for oysters, a further account of which will be given hereafter. Besides which, the several mills here do not contribute a little to the benefit of this place; four of these are employed in the grinding of corn, and dressing it into flour; and the fifth, called Perrywinckle mill, was some few years ago applied to the manufacturing of pearl-barley, which used to be imported from Holland; and it was supposed to be the only mill in the kingdom where that article was brought to the same perfection as in Holland, but this manufacture for want of due encouragement has been since discontinued.
The town of Milton is governed by a a portreve, who is chosen annually on St. James's day, by the inhabitants of the parish paying church and poor's rates; whose office is, to oversee the market, and preserve good order within the town, and to execute the office of clerk of the market in all matters, within the hundreds of Milton and Marden; he likewise sets the price of all things which come to the keys, or any other creek within the hundred, being such things as head officers in other towns may set the prices on
The market, which is a very plentiful one for all sorts of butchers meat, poultry, &c. is held on a Saturday weekly, at the shambles, in the center of the town. Adjoining to them is the market-house, having a clock, and a bell, which is rung not only for the purpose of the market, but for the calling of the parshioners to church, for funerals, and for occasional parish meetings. At a small distance northward from the shambles is a king of court-house, being a very low old-timbered tenement, where the courts of the manor are kept, and other meetings held; at other times it is made use of as the school house; underneath it is the town prison.
The school is endowed with the annual sum of nine pounds, an account of which may be seen hereafter, among the charitable benefactions to this parish. The master is appointed by the minister and churchwardens. Nine or ten poor boys are taught to read and write in it.
There is a fair, which used to be held on the feast of St. Margaret, July 13, now, by the alteration of the stile, on the 24th of that month, and the two following days.
The lands in this parish, near the town, and especially on the lower or northern part of it, are very rich and sertile. Adjoining to these are the marshes, which extend to the waters of the Swale. Below the hill westward there is another streamlet, which having turned a mill near the vicarage, runs on not far distant from the church, and court-lodge, situated about half a mile northward below the present town, near which the former one destroyed by Earl Godwin is supposed to have once stood.
In the north-west part of this parish, among the marshes, there is a decoy for wild fowl, the only one, that I know of, in this part of the county. The fowl caught in it, are much esteemed for their size and flavor. Great numbers of them are weekly taken and sent up to London.
In this parish, at a small distance northward from Bobbing-place, is a farm called the Quintin farm, which shews that diversion to have been formerly used in it. (fn. 2)
THE FISHERY belonging to the manor and hundred of Milton is of very considerable account. It seems to have been granted by king John, by his charter, in his 7th year, to the abbot and convent of Faversham, by the description of the fisheries of Milton, which the men of Seasalter then held by the yearly rent of twenty shillings, payable at his manor of Milton, and by doing therefrom the customs and service which were wont to be to it.
King Edward III. in his 4th year, confirmed this grant, as did king Henry VI. and this fishery remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was surrendered up into the king's hands, together with all its possessions.
After which, the fee simple of this fishery remained with the manor in the hands of the crown, till the 10th year of king Charles I. when it was passed away, with it, by the words recited in the grant then made of the manor, to Sir Ed. Browne and Christ. Favell, as will be more fully mentioned below; after which, James Herbert, esq. coming into the possession of it, by the settlement of it from his father Philip, earl of Pembroke, he in the 26th year of king Charles II. obtained a fresh grant of this fishery, against which there was a quo warranto brought in the reign of queen Anne, on a petition of the fishermen of Rochester and Stroud, to shew by what authority they, the grantees, kept courts within their manor of Milton, and restrained the fishermen of those and the adjacent towns, from fishing and dredging for oysters within this hundred and manor: but on a trial had at bar, a verdict was given in his favor. Since which it has continued down, in like manner as the manor of Milton, to the right hon. Philip, viscount Wenman, and Mrs. Anne Herbert, who are at this time proprietors of this fishery, together with the manor.
The company of Fishermen, or Dredgers, of this fishery, hold it by lease from the owners of the manor, at the yearly rent of one hundred pounds and four bushels of oysters. They are governed by their particular officers, under certain rules or bye-laws, made by antient custom at the court baron of the manor. There are now about one hundred and forty freemen belonging to it.
The oysters produced from these grounds, within the limits of this fishery, are usually called Milton Natives, and are esteemed the finest and richest flavored of any in Europe. They are supposed to be the same that Juvenal particularly describes, in his fourth satire, as being reckoned a delicacy even in his time, in these words, satire iv. l. 144:
— Rutupinove edita fundo Ostrea, callebat primo deprendere morsu.
The sum usually returned for these oysters is from 3000l. to 7000l. per annum. The Dutch have been supposed by many, to have engrossed this article of luxury; but they expend but a very small part of the above sums, and sometimes none, for the space of seven years together.
IN THE WESTERN PART of this parish there are several hundred acres of coppice-wood, which are adjoining to a much larger tract of the like sort, extending southward almost as far as Binbury pound, on the west side of Stockbury-valley, for the space of near five miles. These woods, especially those in and near this parish, are noted for the great plenty of chesnut stubs interspersed promiscuously throughout them, which, from the quick and strait growth of this king of wood, makes them very valuable. These are so numerous in them, as to give name to most of these woods near Milton, which, besides their particular names to each of them, are usually called by the general name of Chesnut-woods. And in the presentment made of the customs of the manor of Milton in 1575, it is mentioned, that the occupiers of the three mills holden of the manor should gather yearly for the lord of it nine bushels of chestenottes, in Chestnott wood, or pay eighteen-pence by the year to the queen, who then had the manor in her own hands, and was possessed of three hundred acres of chesnut wood within this hundred.
¶These chesnuts are undoubtedly the indigenuous growth of Britain, planted by the hand of nature. They are interspersed throughout the whole tract, without any form or regularity, and are many of them, by their appearance, of great age; and by numbers of them, which now seem almost worn out and perishing, being made use of as the termini or boundaries, as well of private property as of parishes, it is plain they were first pitched upon, in preference to others, for that purpose, as being the largest and most antient ones of any then existing; and as these are hardly ever cut down or altered, they must have stood sacred to this use from the first introduction of private property into this kingdom, and the first division of it into parishes. Four letters were printed in 1771, after having been read before the Royal Society, two of which were written by Dr. Ducarel, and the other two by Mr. Thorpe and Mr. Hasted, to prove that chesnut-trees were the indigenous growth of this kingdom, in answer to an idea of the hon. Daines Barrington, who had a wish to establish a contrary opinion.
DR. PLOT says, that Herba Britannica, which Twyne and Johnson think to be bistort, Trisolium acetosum, or Oxys; Empetron, quæ est petrafindula Britanniæ prope peculiaris, and Crocus, were found at Milton by Scribonius Largus, when he came into Britain with the emperor Claudius. And he further says, that Crocus sativus, saffron, was heretofore sown and gathered (as now at Walden, in Essex) at Milton, and quotes for his authority, a manuscript rental of the manor of Milton, in the library of Christ-church, Canterbury.
MILTON is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Sittingborne.
The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It is a large handsome building, consisting of two isles and two chancels, the southernmost of which belongs to the manor of Northwood. It has a well built tower at the west end, in which are five bells. In this church, among others, were formerly the arms of Barry, Diggs, Finch, of the Five Ports, of Norwood and Norton, with their several crests, trophies, and banners; of Marten quartering Boteler; one coat, Barry, argent and azure, on a canton of the first, a bird of the second; Argent, three bends azure, within a bordure, eight mullets; Gules, a fess or, between three mullets, argent; and in one of the windows, a man kneeling, with a coat of arms, Six lions rampant, three and three, and underneath, Orate paia Guliel Savage Armigi.
Mauricius ap John, rector of St. George's, in Exeter, was buried in the choir of this church, as appears by his will, anno 1499.
In the year 1070, being the 5th year of his reign, William the Conqueror gave to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, the church of Middelton, and the tenths of all the products accruing from that manor, and the tenths of all its appurtenances, of the land, wood, meadows, and water, excepting the tenths of honey, and rent paid in money. (fn. 12)
Pope Lucius XI. in 1144, at the petition of abbot Hugh de Trottesclive, confirmed the annual pension of ten marcs from this church to that abbey.
In 1168, the conventual church of St. Augustine was the greatest part of it burnt; on which account this church was allotted to the sacristy there, for the repair of it. (fn. 13) But they did not keep it long, for in 1178, at the king's instance, they gave it up, and lost all property both in the church, and the advowson of it. A composition was entered into between the archbishop and the abbot in 1182, concerning the privileges and exemptions of the latter; when it was agreed, that the archdeacon, or his official, should receive his accustomed dues and procurations from the churches of St. Augustine, excepting those of Minster, Northborne, and Chistelet, and from this church likewise, when the monks should again get possession of the appropriation of it.
Four years after which, the abbot demised to the prioress of St. Sexburg of Shepey, the tiches which his monastery possessed, in right of this church, in Bobbing, at the yearly rent of ten shillings, on condition that all housekeepers, which should be on the estates from which they arose, should yearly repair to this the mother church, with their oblations, on Christmas-day, the Purification, and Easter day. And in 1188, the abbot demised to the prioress there, the tenths of Westlonde, within her parish, for the rent of fourteen shillings, payable yearly to the sacrist of St. Augustine.
About the year 1198, the abbot and convent recovered this church, which was then become vacant by the death of one Franco, the person to whom they had given it up, at the instance of king Henry. But they had kept it but a small time, before the archbishop disturbed them in their possession of it. However, by the mediation of mutual friends, and at the king's request, that he would not molest them in their appropriation of it; he out of respect to the king, ratified this church to them, to be possessed by them for ever. (fn. 14)
There was a pension of forty shillings payably yearly from this church, with the chapel belonging to it, to the above monastery, which, with the other pensions from their several churches, was given up by agreement in 1242, for a compensation out of the profits of the church of Preston.
The abbot and convent, among the extensive privileges from the papal see, had obtained an exemption from all archiepiscopal authority, and about the year 1295 made an institution of several new deanries, and apportioned the several churches belonging to his monastery, to each of them, according to their vicinity; one of these was the deanry of Lenham, in which this church was included. This raised great contests with the several archbishops, and after more than five years altercation, the abbot was stripped of these exemptions, and was declared, by the pope's bull, to be subject to the archbishop's jurisdiction, in like manner as before; which entirely dissolved these new deanries, and that of Lenham among them. (fn. 15)
Notwithstanding the abbot and convent seem to have held the appropriation of this church almost from held the appropriation of this church almost from the first grant of it, and though there had been vicars instituted to it long before this time, for Robert de Wikes, who stiles himself vicar of Middelton, by his deed in 1247, granted seven deywerks of land, with the houses built on it, for the habitation of the vicar of Middelton, for the time being; and the abbot and convent had in 1286, assigned a portion for the maintenance of the vicar here; yet there does not appear to have been any regular endowment of a vicarage to it, till the reign of king Edward III. when archbishop Stratford, in 1345, anno 20 Edward III. by his instrument, decreed, that the vicar of the church of Middelton, and his successors, should have the usual mansion of the vicarage, with the garden adjoining to it, together with one acre of the glebe of the same; and that he should have, in the name of the vicarage, all manner of oblations in the church of Middelton, and in all places, situated within the bounds and limits or titheable places of it; and that they should have in the name of the vicarage, all tithes of sylva cædua, wool, lambs, calves, pigs, ducks, geese, swans, pidgeons, cheese, milk-meats, herbage, apples, pears, and other fruit, growing in gardens and orchards, pulse, flax, hemp, eggs, rushes, merchandizes, and of all mills built, or which might in future be built, within the bounds and limits or titheable places of the church, and all other small tithes whatsoever belonging to it, and all legacies left in future to it, which the rectors or vicars of it might of right or custom take; also, that the vicars, in right of the vicarage, should have of the religious, the annual pension of 4s. (fn. 16) sterling, one seam or quarter of corn, and three quarters or seams of barley, on the feast of St. Michael, at Middelton, by them to be yearly paid, on pain of the sequestration of the fruits and profits of the church, belonging to the religious, to be laid on as often and whenever they should cease in the payment of the pension or barley, or should not pay either of them in the time above-mentioned.
But that the vicars should undergo the burthen of serving by themselves, or some other fit priest, the church in divine services, in the finding of one lamp, to burn before the altar of St. Mary there, and the ministering of bread, wine, lights, and other things, which should be necessary for the celebration of divine rights in the church. The burthen likewise of the payment of tenths and other impositions, whenever they might be imposed on the English church, or incumbent on the church, for the taxation of twelve marcs, beyond the burthens allotted to the religious underneath, they should undergo at their own costs and expences.
But the burthen of the reparation and rebuilding of the chancel of the church, both within and without, and also the finding and repairing of books and vestments, and ornaments of the church, which were wont or ought of right or custom, to be found and repaired by the rectors of churches, and all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, incumbent on the church, the religious should undergo and acknowledge for ever, &c. (fn. 17)
The church and vicarage, after this, remained part of the possessions of the monastery, till the final dissolution of it, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was, with all its revenues, surrendered up into the king's hands, who by his dotation-charter, in his 33d year, settled both the appropriation of this church, and the advowson of the vicarage, among other premises, on his new-founded dean and chapter of Christchurch, Canterbury, with whom the inheritance of the parsonage still remains, the interest in the lease of it being now in the heirs of John Cockin Sole, esq. deceased, but the advowson of the vicarage the dean and chapter retain in their own hands, and are the present patrons of it.
The vicarage of Milton is valued in the king's books at 13l. 2s. 6d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 6s. 3d.
¶In 1578, there were here, dwelling-houses on hundred and eight, communicants three hundred and seventy-four. In 1640 this vicarage was valued at eighty pounds. Communicants five hundred and twenty-nine.
The antient annual pension of four shillings, one quarter of wheat, and three quarters of barley, stipulated to be paid by the religious as before-mentioned, still continues to be paid by the lessee of the parsonage, by the covenants of his lease.
The agreement made between the prior of the brethren of the hospital of St. John of Jersalem and the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, about king Henry the IId.'s reign, that whenever their chapel of Rodmersham should be dedicated, and the cemetery consecrated, they would diminish by it none of the mother church of Middleton's rights; has already been more fully mentioned in the account of that parish before. (fn. 18)
The old Norman Church, which stood on the north side of the main street, near the village stores, described as "very ancient, the smallest I ever saw" in 1791 by John O'Keefe, had originally one aisle, a low square tower, under which was the gallery, reached from the churchyard by an outside flight of stone steps and a small porch on the south side. In 1842 an extension was made, bringing the outside wall level with the porch and thus giving the Church a curiously lop-sided appearance.
In the gallery sat the choir with its flutes, violins, 'cello and double bass. Much of the music was written by local musicians, and many in the village remember hearing of the parts played by their grandparents.
By 1869 the old Church had become dilapidated and inadequate for the needs of the inhabitants of West Lulworth. It was very close to cottages on either side, and the Rev. William Gildea, curate of Winfrith and later a Canon (non resident) of Salisbury Cathedral, whose living it was, of an annual value of about £130, arranged for the building of the new Church and Vicarage on a far more convenient site.
The new Church of the Holy Trinity was built from the designs of Mr. John Hicks of Dorchester, but owing to his death, was carried out by Mr. R. G. Crickmay of Weymouth, the pulpit, font, prayer desk and other internal fittings being from his designs. Messrs. Wellspring & Son, of Dorchester, were the builders. The Dorset County Chronicle of Thursday, 12th May, 1870 states: "The style is Early Geometrical Gothic, and it is built of Purbeck stone, the carved, moulded and highly finished portions of the stonework generally are of Bath freestone. The material of the old Parish Church was used as much as possible. The letters on the moulding over the east window of the transept (behind the organ) stood over a sixteenth-century window in the north wall of the old Church, and read 'Robertus Lulleworth'" presumably the name of an ancient Lord of the Manor, after whom the village is named. "The rear arch springs from demi-angels bearing shields. In the chancel is an oak bench with carved framing and panels of the seventeenth century, which has been restored." (A photograph of a sketch of the old Church is in the vestry.)
The foundation stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, wife of Nathaniel Bond. Esq., of Holme Priory, the fifth daughter of the Second Earl of Eldon. "The stone itself was found buried a foot or two underground in the old churchyard. It now supports four arches, and underneath it was placed a glass bottle containing a newspaper and one or two coins of the year". The brass plate can be seen behind the base of the lectern, and the inscription reads "This stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, June 1st 1869, William Gildea, Vicar, William Randall, Thomas Randall, Jun.. Churchwardens".
The Church was consecrated by the Bishop of Salisbury, Dr. George Moberley, on 11th May, 1870, "In a fierce gale of wind accompanied by heavy rain", in the presence of twenty-five other clergy, the churchwardens and many parishioners and friends.
In his memorandum of November, 1879, the Rev. W. Gildea states: "The Communion Table is made of oak cut out of the beams of the old Church roof, which were much decayed except in the centre".
"Some of the wood in the reredos was wreck picked up at sea and still has trace of the paint of the vessel to which it belonged. The three panels of the reredos were painted by Miss Hicks, daughter of the architect."
The carved panels on either side of the oak reredos, come from Oberammergau. They are carved in deep relief in lime wood, and are the work of Hans Mayer, the son of Josef Mayer, who on three occasions, in the years 1870, 1880 and 1890, acted "Christus" in the Passion Play.
It was after a lecture on the Passion Play given in Lulworth in 1894, by Mr. Arthur Evans, that the villagers heard of the beautiful wood carving at Oberammergau and decided to start a fund to purchase some for the Church. The panels represent the Birth and Baptism of Jesus, the Crucifixion and the Supper at Emmaus. They were placed there in 1895.
The lectern stem and base contain woods from Europe, Asia, Africa and America. The eagle standing on its globe was executed by Messrs. Case, Strand, London.
The Rev. William Gildea was a keen amateur woodworker. Helped by Mr. Basil Sprague, who turned the wood pillars, capitals and bases, and by Mr. John Chaffey, he executed the altar, reredos woodwork, altar rails and the stem of the lectern.
The beautiful carving of the columns and corbels was done by Mr. Benjamin Grassby of Dorchester and was the gift of Mrs. Gildea. The capitals are of French Early Gothic foliage variety.
The illuminated texts over the arches of the Nave were painted by Mr. Thomas Randall of Hamboro’ Farm, who died a few weeks before completion of the work. Members of the Randall family were churchwardens for over 100 years. Mr. Matthew Randall had been chiefly instrumental in adding an aisle to the old Church, and took a great interest in the building of the new one. Mr. William Randall acted as churchwarden throughout the seventeen years of the Rev. W. Gildea's incumbency.
For several years before his death in 1981, Mr. P. J. Franklin , F.C.LO.B., gave generously of his time and expert knowledge; arranged for the complete redecoration of the church; and for the illuminated texts to be repainted by Mr. F. E. J. Chinchen of Lulworth Camp.
The first couple to be married in the new church, on 16th February, 1871, were James George Dorey, aged 23, and Maria Eliza Saunders, aged 24, grandparents of Mr. Walter Dorey, who is the last of the West Lulworth Doreys, a family whose names appear in the earliest registers from 1745. Unfortunately the older registers dating back to the sixteenth century were destroyed by fire.
The earliest mention of a curate is Sir Peter Rosse, 1553. Later names are: S. Haines, 1753; Benjamin Thomton, 1777; John Bale, 1789; Robert Goodrich, 1803; Franklin Tonkin, 1845; J. G. Fisher, 1847; Edward Dix Wood, 1850; Cornell P. West, 1852; Joseph Maskell, 1855; John Wynne, 1857; W. A. Bayley, 1861.
The continued list of Vicars is behind the Font.
The first, the Rev. William Gildea, was obviously a man of great character and many talents. His wife, five sons. and four daughters, together with his large staff at the Vicarage, centred village life around the Church. There is no doubt that he largely financed the building himself, with the aid of loans from Lord Eldon, the Rev. Eldon Bankes, and Nathaniel Bond, Esq.
The Rev. W. Percy Schuster and his family also had an outstanding influence, and provided the Church with most of its stained-glass windows and many essential adornments.
The Parish Church is now included in the list of buildings of special architectural or historic interest.
Tower
The battlemented tower was completed after the Church was consecrated. It was enlarged in 1888 at a cost of £600; two original bells were cast into one and four added in 1892 and a sixth in 1903. The bellringers were very active and the bells rang out to welcome important visitors, mark notable events, etc. In 1911, 1,260 changes were rung in 43 minutes! The weight of the bells varied from 11 cwts. to 4 cwts. They unfortunately proved too heavy for the Belfry, which was demolished and rebuilt in 1952-53, this time at a cost of £6,000. (See photographs in vestry.) The bells were all sold except the:
Tenor - "Through all the changing scenes of life"
III - "Where sweetly chimes this bell
O' er sea and hill and dell
May Jesus Christ be praised"
both dated 1892.
Without the enthusiasm of Lady Fripp, and much help from Captain Schreiber (see later), the tower might never have been rebuilt. Lady Fripp organized a large fête and raised money in many other ways. She also made many gifts to the Church. Sir Alfred and Lady Fripp came to the Mill House in 1911; later Weston was built for them (designed by Lutyens). His father and uncle, Alfred and George Fripp were both well-known artists and painted beautiful water-colours of the old cottages, the Mill pond, the Cove and the rocks of the spring, before the waterworks took away its charm. Sir Alfred, (surgeon to King Edward VII), and Lady Fripp were most popular in the village, and gladly attended to the health of any local sick children. They are both buried in the Churchyard. The close connection of the family with West Lulworth, happily still continues. The Jubilee Clock, made by Messrs. Potts & Co., of Leeds, at an estimated cost of £130, was added in 1897. The clock chimes were reset by Colonel Robert Hamblin, in memory of his wife, Mary, in 1972. He left a legacy of £1,000 to the Church, to which they were both very devoted and generous.
Stained-Glass Windows
The east window was given by Messrs. R. and J. A. Williams of Bridehead, near Dorchester. The west window was given anonymously in 1898, the stained glass is by Kempe and is exceptionally good - a close composition in sombre colours.
The north and south windows in the Sanctuary are in memory of the Rev. W. P. Schuster’s brother, Herbert L. Schuster, Esq. The window in the Chancel is in memory of his sister, Miss Fanny Emily Schuster, and another brother, the Rev. Edmond Vemon Schuster, Rector of Haughton Dale, Lancashire.
The south window and brass plate near the pulpit recall the Rev. John Henry Lonsdale. He was a keen fisherman, a friend of Alfred Fripp since their student days, and frequently officiated in the Church. He loved Lulworth and the little sailing ships which unloaded coal for the Castle and village at the old store in the Cove. Sometimes their anchors cut adrift and caused serious damage to the fishermen's nets, which at that time were hauled in from the mouth of the Cove to under Bindon Hill by eight men. This delightful window, and also payments for divers from Weymouth to remove anchors and other offending obstacles, were given by relatives and friends of this much-loved Dorset parson.
The other south window in the Nave, by A. C. Moore, is in memory of Isaac Fryer, Esq., who in gratitude for the recovery of health of his daughter in 1874, founded "The Fryer Trust" - for the distribution of coals, cash or clothing in the village at Christmas. Inflation, alas, has now made this Trust of little value. It is administered by the Parish Council. This same daughter, Mrs. Russell, when in Lulworth, lived with her crippled child at "Old Sea View" (now the Mill House). When the child died aged 14, the Rev. W. P. Schuster wrote of her as "One who in her short life, set a bright example of faith and hope and patience amid much bodily suffering".
The two north windows in the Nave are in memory of Maria Theresa Schuster, wife of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, whose memorial plaque is in the Chancel; and of Christopher John Claud Schuster, who was sadly killed in action only three months before the end of the First World War. Aged 19, he was the only son of Sir Claud Schuster, afterwards Baron of Ceme, who lived at Gatton Cottage (now Gatton House) and with his wife is buried in the Churchyard. Sir Claud was a nephew of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, and often read the lessons in the Church. The stained glass is beautiful and portrays St. George slaying the dragon, on the left side, and St. Christopher on the right.
Memorial Plaques
Chancel
John Wordsworth, Bishop of Salisbury, son of Bishop Christopher Wordsworth 'Man of Letters'. He officiated at services whenever he was staying at his seaside home, 'Bishop's Cottage', and was a great friend to everyone in the village. His daughter. Rose Salome, was christened in August, 1900 and his granddaughter, Rosa Jane Pelly, in April, 1931, in the Church. His wife is buried in the Churchyard. The plaque is composed of alabaster and opus sectile, bearing the Diocesan and Wordsworth Arms, executed by Messrs. Powell, Whitefriars, London.
William Percy Schuster, Vicar for 27 years until his death. He and his wife, mother, brothers and sister were devoted to the Church, and their generosity is recorded in many of the old Parish Magazines. He and his wife and his sister, Fanny Emily, are buried in the Churchyard. In 1925 the endowment was increased by £1,000 in his memory, by his wife, Maria Theresa. The plaque is surrounded by alabaster, carved with acoms and oak leaves.
Walter Henry Chaffey. He was a faithful verger and churchwarden for 25 years and a member of the choir for 71 years. Quiet, modest and efficient, keenly interested in ecclesiastical law and anything to do with the Church, he never failed in his duty to it. He came from a long line of Lulworth Chaffeys and many of his family still live in East and West Lulworth. He is buried in the Churchyard.
Nave
The Rev. Benjamin Bodycombe (small crucifix above the pulpit). A widower, he married his second wife in the Church. He suffered much ill-health and died after five years as Vicar, and he and his wife are buried in the Churchyard. He took a great interest in the music, and in young people.
Mary Frances Urquhart. Her husband Major Charles James Urquhart built "Oswalds" (now Bincleaves) and after he died she lived at Spring Cottage.
Florence Rose Mary Robson was daughter of the above and wife of Colonel Henry Denne Robson. They also lived at Oswalds. "She was the life and soul of the village," says one who knew her.
Katherine Williams, wife of Regtl, Quartermaster Sergt. William Henry Williams, son of Robert Williams, one of the fishermen of West Lulworth. Her son by her first marriage was:
John Beare, Lance-Corporal, R.E., who died, aged 25, as a prisoner-of-war in Japan in the Second World War.
North Aisle
William Tucker of St. Andrews, another faithful churchwarden for many years in the time of the Rev. W. P. Schuster. He was a popular local farmer, and is buried in the Churchyard.
Jack Stewart Newcombe, Pilot Officer, R.A.F., aged 21, and his brother Gordon Clifford Newcombe, Lieut., R.N., H.M.S. Glorious, aged 25. Both killed flying. Their mother and step-father, Major and Mrs. Campbell, lived at 8 Coastguard Cottages. They were "Two fine young men".
Lychgate
Captain Frederick Godfrey Schreiber, R. N. (Retd.), built the Lychgate in memory of his wife, Agnes Winifred, who died in 1949. It was dedicated by the Bishop of Salisbury in 1953 and is built of oak with a tiled roof. His own name is now inscribed there too. He died in 1966 after living at Stair House for 33 years. Capt Schreiber was a very generous benefactor, he donated £500 to the rebuilding of the Tower, with which work he was much involved. He gave £1,000 4% Consols to form "The Schreiber Trust" in 1954, which is primarily for the general upkeep of the Churchyard, particularly the Lychgate and the Schreiber grave and monument. The brass altar cross was another gift in memory of his wife.
Churchyard
There are many interesting people buried in the Churchyard, villagers both well-known and lesser-known, who all played their part in shaping the life of West Lulworth.
The old Norman Church, which stood on the north side of the main street, near the village stores, described as "very ancient, the smallest I ever saw" in 1791 by John O'Keefe, had originally one aisle, a low square tower, under which was the gallery, reached from the churchyard by an outside flight of stone steps and a small porch on the south side. In 1842 an extension was made, bringing the outside wall level with the porch and thus giving the Church a curiously lop-sided appearance.
In the gallery sat the choir with its flutes, violins, 'cello and double bass. Much of the music was written by local musicians, and many in the village remember hearing of the parts played by their grandparents.
By 1869 the old Church had become dilapidated and inadequate for the needs of the inhabitants of West Lulworth. It was very close to cottages on either side, and the Rev. William Gildea, curate of Winfrith and later a Canon (non resident) of Salisbury Cathedral, whose living it was, of an annual value of about £130, arranged for the building of the new Church and Vicarage on a far more convenient site.
The new Church of the Holy Trinity was built from the designs of Mr. John Hicks of Dorchester, but owing to his death, was carried out by Mr. R. G. Crickmay of Weymouth, the pulpit, font, prayer desk and other internal fittings being from his designs. Messrs. Wellspring & Son, of Dorchester, were the builders. The Dorset County Chronicle of Thursday, 12th May, 1870 states: "The style is Early Geometrical Gothic, and it is built of Purbeck stone, the carved, moulded and highly finished portions of the stonework generally are of Bath freestone. The material of the old Parish Church was used as much as possible. The letters on the moulding over the east window of the transept (behind the organ) stood over a sixteenth-century window in the north wall of the old Church, and read 'Robertus Lulleworth'" presumably the name of an ancient Lord of the Manor, after whom the village is named. "The rear arch springs from demi-angels bearing shields. In the chancel is an oak bench with carved framing and panels of the seventeenth century, which has been restored." (A photograph of a sketch of the old Church is in the vestry.)
The foundation stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, wife of Nathaniel Bond. Esq., of Holme Priory, the fifth daughter of the Second Earl of Eldon. "The stone itself was found buried a foot or two underground in the old churchyard. It now supports four arches, and underneath it was placed a glass bottle containing a newspaper and one or two coins of the year". The brass plate can be seen behind the base of the lectern, and the inscription reads "This stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, June 1st 1869, William Gildea, Vicar, William Randall, Thomas Randall, Jun.. Churchwardens".
The Church was consecrated by the Bishop of Salisbury, Dr. George Moberley, on 11th May, 1870, "In a fierce gale of wind accompanied by heavy rain", in the presence of twenty-five other clergy, the churchwardens and many parishioners and friends.
In his memorandum of November, 1879, the Rev. W. Gildea states: "The Communion Table is made of oak cut out of the beams of the old Church roof, which were much decayed except in the centre".
"Some of the wood in the reredos was wreck picked up at sea and still has trace of the paint of the vessel to which it belonged. The three panels of the reredos were painted by Miss Hicks, daughter of the architect."
The carved panels on either side of the oak reredos, come from Oberammergau. They are carved in deep relief in lime wood, and are the work of Hans Mayer, the son of Josef Mayer, who on three occasions, in the years 1870, 1880 and 1890, acted "Christus" in the Passion Play.
It was after a lecture on the Passion Play given in Lulworth in 1894, by Mr. Arthur Evans, that the villagers heard of the beautiful wood carving at Oberammergau and decided to start a fund to purchase some for the Church. The panels represent the Birth and Baptism of Jesus, the Crucifixion and the Supper at Emmaus. They were placed there in 1895.
The lectern stem and base contain woods from Europe, Asia, Africa and America. The eagle standing on its globe was executed by Messrs. Case, Strand, London.
The Rev. William Gildea was a keen amateur woodworker. Helped by Mr. Basil Sprague, who turned the wood pillars, capitals and bases, and by Mr. John Chaffey, he executed the altar, reredos woodwork, altar rails and the stem of the lectern.
The beautiful carving of the columns and corbels was done by Mr. Benjamin Grassby of Dorchester and was the gift of Mrs. Gildea. The capitals are of French Early Gothic foliage variety.
The illuminated texts over the arches of the Nave were painted by Mr. Thomas Randall of Hamboro’ Farm, who died a few weeks before completion of the work. Members of the Randall family were churchwardens for over 100 years. Mr. Matthew Randall had been chiefly instrumental in adding an aisle to the old Church, and took a great interest in the building of the new one. Mr. William Randall acted as churchwarden throughout the seventeen years of the Rev. W. Gildea's incumbency.
For several years before his death in 1981, Mr. P. J. Franklin , F.C.LO.B., gave generously of his time and expert knowledge; arranged for the complete redecoration of the church; and for the illuminated texts to be repainted by Mr. F. E. J. Chinchen of Lulworth Camp.
The first couple to be married in the new church, on 16th February, 1871, were James George Dorey, aged 23, and Maria Eliza Saunders, aged 24, grandparents of Mr. Walter Dorey, who is the last of the West Lulworth Doreys, a family whose names appear in the earliest registers from 1745. Unfortunately the older registers dating back to the sixteenth century were destroyed by fire.
The earliest mention of a curate is Sir Peter Rosse, 1553. Later names are: S. Haines, 1753; Benjamin Thomton, 1777; John Bale, 1789; Robert Goodrich, 1803; Franklin Tonkin, 1845; J. G. Fisher, 1847; Edward Dix Wood, 1850; Cornell P. West, 1852; Joseph Maskell, 1855; John Wynne, 1857; W. A. Bayley, 1861.
The continued list of Vicars is behind the Font.
The first, the Rev. William Gildea, was obviously a man of great character and many talents. His wife, five sons. and four daughters, together with his large staff at the Vicarage, centred village life around the Church. There is no doubt that he largely financed the building himself, with the aid of loans from Lord Eldon, the Rev. Eldon Bankes, and Nathaniel Bond, Esq.
The Rev. W. Percy Schuster and his family also had an outstanding influence, and provided the Church with most of its stained-glass windows and many essential adornments.
The Parish Church is now included in the list of buildings of special architectural or historic interest.
Tower
The battlemented tower was completed after the Church was consecrated. It was enlarged in 1888 at a cost of £600; two original bells were cast into one and four added in 1892 and a sixth in 1903. The bellringers were very active and the bells rang out to welcome important visitors, mark notable events, etc. In 1911, 1,260 changes were rung in 43 minutes! The weight of the bells varied from 11 cwts. to 4 cwts. They unfortunately proved too heavy for the Belfry, which was demolished and rebuilt in 1952-53, this time at a cost of £6,000. (See photographs in vestry.) The bells were all sold except the:
Tenor - "Through all the changing scenes of life"
III - "Where sweetly chimes this bell
O' er sea and hill and dell
May Jesus Christ be praised"
both dated 1892.
Without the enthusiasm of Lady Fripp, and much help from Captain Schreiber (see later), the tower might never have been rebuilt. Lady Fripp organized a large fête and raised money in many other ways. She also made many gifts to the Church. Sir Alfred and Lady Fripp came to the Mill House in 1911; later Weston was built for them (designed by Lutyens). His father and uncle, Alfred and George Fripp were both well-known artists and painted beautiful water-colours of the old cottages, the Mill pond, the Cove and the rocks of the spring, before the waterworks took away its charm. Sir Alfred, (surgeon to King Edward VII), and Lady Fripp were most popular in the village, and gladly attended to the health of any local sick children. They are both buried in the Churchyard. The close connection of the family with West Lulworth, happily still continues. The Jubilee Clock, made by Messrs. Potts & Co., of Leeds, at an estimated cost of £130, was added in 1897. The clock chimes were reset by Colonel Robert Hamblin, in memory of his wife, Mary, in 1972. He left a legacy of £1,000 to the Church, to which they were both very devoted and generous.
Stained-Glass Windows
The east window was given by Messrs. R. and J. A. Williams of Bridehead, near Dorchester. The west window was given anonymously in 1898, the stained glass is by Kempe and is exceptionally good - a close composition in sombre colours.
The north and south windows in the Sanctuary are in memory of the Rev. W. P. Schuster’s brother, Herbert L. Schuster, Esq. The window in the Chancel is in memory of his sister, Miss Fanny Emily Schuster, and another brother, the Rev. Edmond Vemon Schuster, Rector of Haughton Dale, Lancashire.
The south window and brass plate near the pulpit recall the Rev. John Henry Lonsdale. He was a keen fisherman, a friend of Alfred Fripp since their student days, and frequently officiated in the Church. He loved Lulworth and the little sailing ships which unloaded coal for the Castle and village at the old store in the Cove. Sometimes their anchors cut adrift and caused serious damage to the fishermen's nets, which at that time were hauled in from the mouth of the Cove to under Bindon Hill by eight men. This delightful window, and also payments for divers from Weymouth to remove anchors and other offending obstacles, were given by relatives and friends of this much-loved Dorset parson.
The other south window in the Nave, by A. C. Moore, is in memory of Isaac Fryer, Esq., who in gratitude for the recovery of health of his daughter in 1874, founded "The Fryer Trust" - for the distribution of coals, cash or clothing in the village at Christmas. Inflation, alas, has now made this Trust of little value. It is administered by the Parish Council. This same daughter, Mrs. Russell, when in Lulworth, lived with her crippled child at "Old Sea View" (now the Mill House). When the child died aged 14, the Rev. W. P. Schuster wrote of her as "One who in her short life, set a bright example of faith and hope and patience amid much bodily suffering".
The two north windows in the Nave are in memory of Maria Theresa Schuster, wife of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, whose memorial plaque is in the Chancel; and of Christopher John Claud Schuster, who was sadly killed in action only three months before the end of the First World War. Aged 19, he was the only son of Sir Claud Schuster, afterwards Baron of Ceme, who lived at Gatton Cottage (now Gatton House) and with his wife is buried in the Churchyard. Sir Claud was a nephew of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, and often read the lessons in the Church. The stained glass is beautiful and portrays St. George slaying the dragon, on the left side, and St. Christopher on the right.
Memorial Plaques
Chancel
John Wordsworth, Bishop of Salisbury, son of Bishop Christopher Wordsworth 'Man of Letters'. He officiated at services whenever he was staying at his seaside home, 'Bishop's Cottage', and was a great friend to everyone in the village. His daughter. Rose Salome, was christened in August, 1900 and his granddaughter, Rosa Jane Pelly, in April, 1931, in the Church. His wife is buried in the Churchyard. The plaque is composed of alabaster and opus sectile, bearing the Diocesan and Wordsworth Arms, executed by Messrs. Powell, Whitefriars, London.
William Percy Schuster, Vicar for 27 years until his death. He and his wife, mother, brothers and sister were devoted to the Church, and their generosity is recorded in many of the old Parish Magazines. He and his wife and his sister, Fanny Emily, are buried in the Churchyard. In 1925 the endowment was increased by £1,000 in his memory, by his wife, Maria Theresa. The plaque is surrounded by alabaster, carved with acoms and oak leaves.
Walter Henry Chaffey. He was a faithful verger and churchwarden for 25 years and a member of the choir for 71 years. Quiet, modest and efficient, keenly interested in ecclesiastical law and anything to do with the Church, he never failed in his duty to it. He came from a long line of Lulworth Chaffeys and many of his family still live in East and West Lulworth. He is buried in the Churchyard.
Nave
The Rev. Benjamin Bodycombe (small crucifix above the pulpit). A widower, he married his second wife in the Church. He suffered much ill-health and died after five years as Vicar, and he and his wife are buried in the Churchyard. He took a great interest in the music, and in young people.
Mary Frances Urquhart. Her husband Major Charles James Urquhart built "Oswalds" (now Bincleaves) and after he died she lived at Spring Cottage.
Florence Rose Mary Robson was daughter of the above and wife of Colonel Henry Denne Robson. They also lived at Oswalds. "She was the life and soul of the village," says one who knew her.
Katherine Williams, wife of Regtl, Quartermaster Sergt. William Henry Williams, son of Robert Williams, one of the fishermen of West Lulworth. Her son by her first marriage was:
John Beare, Lance-Corporal, R.E., who died, aged 25, as a prisoner-of-war in Japan in the Second World War.
North Aisle
William Tucker of St. Andrews, another faithful churchwarden for many years in the time of the Rev. W. P. Schuster. He was a popular local farmer, and is buried in the Churchyard.
Jack Stewart Newcombe, Pilot Officer, R.A.F., aged 21, and his brother Gordon Clifford Newcombe, Lieut., R.N., H.M.S. Glorious, aged 25. Both killed flying. Their mother and step-father, Major and Mrs. Campbell, lived at 8 Coastguard Cottages. They were "Two fine young men".
Lychgate
Captain Frederick Godfrey Schreiber, R. N. (Retd.), built the Lychgate in memory of his wife, Agnes Winifred, who died in 1949. It was dedicated by the Bishop of Salisbury in 1953 and is built of oak with a tiled roof. His own name is now inscribed there too. He died in 1966 after living at Stair House for 33 years. Capt Schreiber was a very generous benefactor, he donated £500 to the rebuilding of the Tower, with which work he was much involved. He gave £1,000 4% Consols to form "The Schreiber Trust" in 1954, which is primarily for the general upkeep of the Churchyard, particularly the Lychgate and the Schreiber grave and monument. The brass altar cross was another gift in memory of his wife.
Churchyard
There are many interesting people buried in the Churchyard, villagers both well-known and lesser-known, who all played their part in shaping the life of West Lulworth.
The old Norman Church, which stood on the north side of the main street, near the village stores, described as "very ancient, the smallest I ever saw" in 1791 by John O'Keefe, had originally one aisle, a low square tower, under which was the gallery, reached from the churchyard by an outside flight of stone steps and a small porch on the south side. In 1842 an extension was made, bringing the outside wall level with the porch and thus giving the Church a curiously lop-sided appearance.
In the gallery sat the choir with its flutes, violins, 'cello and double bass. Much of the music was written by local musicians, and many in the village remember hearing of the parts played by their grandparents.
By 1869 the old Church had become dilapidated and inadequate for the needs of the inhabitants of West Lulworth. It was very close to cottages on either side, and the Rev. William Gildea, curate of Winfrith and later a Canon (non resident) of Salisbury Cathedral, whose living it was, of an annual value of about £130, arranged for the building of the new Church and Vicarage on a far more convenient site.
The new Church of the Holy Trinity was built from the designs of Mr. John Hicks of Dorchester, but owing to his death, was carried out by Mr. R. G. Crickmay of Weymouth, the pulpit, font, prayer desk and other internal fittings being from his designs. Messrs. Wellspring & Son, of Dorchester, were the builders. The Dorset County Chronicle of Thursday, 12th May, 1870 states: "The style is Early Geometrical Gothic, and it is built of Purbeck stone, the carved, moulded and highly finished portions of the stonework generally are of Bath freestone. The material of the old Parish Church was used as much as possible. The letters on the moulding over the east window of the transept (behind the organ) stood over a sixteenth-century window in the north wall of the old Church, and read 'Robertus Lulleworth'" presumably the name of an ancient Lord of the Manor, after whom the village is named. "The rear arch springs from demi-angels bearing shields. In the chancel is an oak bench with carved framing and panels of the seventeenth century, which has been restored." (A photograph of a sketch of the old Church is in the vestry.)
The foundation stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, wife of Nathaniel Bond. Esq., of Holme Priory, the fifth daughter of the Second Earl of Eldon. "The stone itself was found buried a foot or two underground in the old churchyard. It now supports four arches, and underneath it was placed a glass bottle containing a newspaper and one or two coins of the year". The brass plate can be seen behind the base of the lectern, and the inscription reads "This stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, June 1st 1869, William Gildea, Vicar, William Randall, Thomas Randall, Jun.. Churchwardens".
The Church was consecrated by the Bishop of Salisbury, Dr. George Moberley, on 11th May, 1870, "In a fierce gale of wind accompanied by heavy rain", in the presence of twenty-five other clergy, the churchwardens and many parishioners and friends.
In his memorandum of November, 1879, the Rev. W. Gildea states: "The Communion Table is made of oak cut out of the beams of the old Church roof, which were much decayed except in the centre".
"Some of the wood in the reredos was wreck picked up at sea and still has trace of the paint of the vessel to which it belonged. The three panels of the reredos were painted by Miss Hicks, daughter of the architect."
The carved panels on either side of the oak reredos, come from Oberammergau. They are carved in deep relief in lime wood, and are the work of Hans Mayer, the son of Josef Mayer, who on three occasions, in the years 1870, 1880 and 1890, acted "Christus" in the Passion Play.
It was after a lecture on the Passion Play given in Lulworth in 1894, by Mr. Arthur Evans, that the villagers heard of the beautiful wood carving at Oberammergau and decided to start a fund to purchase some for the Church. The panels represent the Birth and Baptism of Jesus, the Crucifixion and the Supper at Emmaus. They were placed there in 1895.
The lectern stem and base contain woods from Europe, Asia, Africa and America. The eagle standing on its globe was executed by Messrs. Case, Strand, London.
The Rev. William Gildea was a keen amateur woodworker. Helped by Mr. Basil Sprague, who turned the wood pillars, capitals and bases, and by Mr. John Chaffey, he executed the altar, reredos woodwork, altar rails and the stem of the lectern.
The beautiful carving of the columns and corbels was done by Mr. Benjamin Grassby of Dorchester and was the gift of Mrs. Gildea. The capitals are of French Early Gothic foliage variety.
The illuminated texts over the arches of the Nave were painted by Mr. Thomas Randall of Hamboro’ Farm, who died a few weeks before completion of the work. Members of the Randall family were churchwardens for over 100 years. Mr. Matthew Randall had been chiefly instrumental in adding an aisle to the old Church, and took a great interest in the building of the new one. Mr. William Randall acted as churchwarden throughout the seventeen years of the Rev. W. Gildea's incumbency.
For several years before his death in 1981, Mr. P. J. Franklin , F.C.LO.B., gave generously of his time and expert knowledge; arranged for the complete redecoration of the church; and for the illuminated texts to be repainted by Mr. F. E. J. Chinchen of Lulworth Camp.
The first couple to be married in the new church, on 16th February, 1871, were James George Dorey, aged 23, and Maria Eliza Saunders, aged 24, grandparents of Mr. Walter Dorey, who is the last of the West Lulworth Doreys, a family whose names appear in the earliest registers from 1745. Unfortunately the older registers dating back to the sixteenth century were destroyed by fire.
The earliest mention of a curate is Sir Peter Rosse, 1553. Later names are: S. Haines, 1753; Benjamin Thomton, 1777; John Bale, 1789; Robert Goodrich, 1803; Franklin Tonkin, 1845; J. G. Fisher, 1847; Edward Dix Wood, 1850; Cornell P. West, 1852; Joseph Maskell, 1855; John Wynne, 1857; W. A. Bayley, 1861.
The continued list of Vicars is behind the Font.
The first, the Rev. William Gildea, was obviously a man of great character and many talents. His wife, five sons. and four daughters, together with his large staff at the Vicarage, centred village life around the Church. There is no doubt that he largely financed the building himself, with the aid of loans from Lord Eldon, the Rev. Eldon Bankes, and Nathaniel Bond, Esq.
The Rev. W. Percy Schuster and his family also had an outstanding influence, and provided the Church with most of its stained-glass windows and many essential adornments.
The Parish Church is now included in the list of buildings of special architectural or historic interest.
Tower
The battlemented tower was completed after the Church was consecrated. It was enlarged in 1888 at a cost of £600; two original bells were cast into one and four added in 1892 and a sixth in 1903. The bellringers were very active and the bells rang out to welcome important visitors, mark notable events, etc. In 1911, 1,260 changes were rung in 43 minutes! The weight of the bells varied from 11 cwts. to 4 cwts. They unfortunately proved too heavy for the Belfry, which was demolished and rebuilt in 1952-53, this time at a cost of £6,000. (See photographs in vestry.) The bells were all sold except the:
Tenor - "Through all the changing scenes of life"
III - "Where sweetly chimes this bell
O' er sea and hill and dell
May Jesus Christ be praised"
both dated 1892.
Without the enthusiasm of Lady Fripp, and much help from Captain Schreiber (see later), the tower might never have been rebuilt. Lady Fripp organized a large fête and raised money in many other ways. She also made many gifts to the Church. Sir Alfred and Lady Fripp came to the Mill House in 1911; later Weston was built for them (designed by Lutyens). His father and uncle, Alfred and George Fripp were both well-known artists and painted beautiful water-colours of the old cottages, the Mill pond, the Cove and the rocks of the spring, before the waterworks took away its charm. Sir Alfred, (surgeon to King Edward VII), and Lady Fripp were most popular in the village, and gladly attended to the health of any local sick children. They are both buried in the Churchyard. The close connection of the family with West Lulworth, happily still continues. The Jubilee Clock, made by Messrs. Potts & Co., of Leeds, at an estimated cost of £130, was added in 1897. The clock chimes were reset by Colonel Robert Hamblin, in memory of his wife, Mary, in 1972. He left a legacy of £1,000 to the Church, to which they were both very devoted and generous.
Stained-Glass Windows
The east window was given by Messrs. R. and J. A. Williams of Bridehead, near Dorchester. The west window was given anonymously in 1898, the stained glass is by Kempe and is exceptionally good - a close composition in sombre colours.
The north and south windows in the Sanctuary are in memory of the Rev. W. P. Schuster’s brother, Herbert L. Schuster, Esq. The window in the Chancel is in memory of his sister, Miss Fanny Emily Schuster, and another brother, the Rev. Edmond Vemon Schuster, Rector of Haughton Dale, Lancashire.
The south window and brass plate near the pulpit recall the Rev. John Henry Lonsdale. He was a keen fisherman, a friend of Alfred Fripp since their student days, and frequently officiated in the Church. He loved Lulworth and the little sailing ships which unloaded coal for the Castle and village at the old store in the Cove. Sometimes their anchors cut adrift and caused serious damage to the fishermen's nets, which at that time were hauled in from the mouth of the Cove to under Bindon Hill by eight men. This delightful window, and also payments for divers from Weymouth to remove anchors and other offending obstacles, were given by relatives and friends of this much-loved Dorset parson.
The other south window in the Nave, by A. C. Moore, is in memory of Isaac Fryer, Esq., who in gratitude for the recovery of health of his daughter in 1874, founded "The Fryer Trust" - for the distribution of coals, cash or clothing in the village at Christmas. Inflation, alas, has now made this Trust of little value. It is administered by the Parish Council. This same daughter, Mrs. Russell, when in Lulworth, lived with her crippled child at "Old Sea View" (now the Mill House). When the child died aged 14, the Rev. W. P. Schuster wrote of her as "One who in her short life, set a bright example of faith and hope and patience amid much bodily suffering".
The two north windows in the Nave are in memory of Maria Theresa Schuster, wife of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, whose memorial plaque is in the Chancel; and of Christopher John Claud Schuster, who was sadly killed in action only three months before the end of the First World War. Aged 19, he was the only son of Sir Claud Schuster, afterwards Baron of Ceme, who lived at Gatton Cottage (now Gatton House) and with his wife is buried in the Churchyard. Sir Claud was a nephew of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, and often read the lessons in the Church. The stained glass is beautiful and portrays St. George slaying the dragon, on the left side, and St. Christopher on the right.
Memorial Plaques
Chancel
John Wordsworth, Bishop of Salisbury, son of Bishop Christopher Wordsworth 'Man of Letters'. He officiated at services whenever he was staying at his seaside home, 'Bishop's Cottage', and was a great friend to everyone in the village. His daughter. Rose Salome, was christened in August, 1900 and his granddaughter, Rosa Jane Pelly, in April, 1931, in the Church. His wife is buried in the Churchyard. The plaque is composed of alabaster and opus sectile, bearing the Diocesan and Wordsworth Arms, executed by Messrs. Powell, Whitefriars, London.
William Percy Schuster, Vicar for 27 years until his death. He and his wife, mother, brothers and sister were devoted to the Church, and their generosity is recorded in many of the old Parish Magazines. He and his wife and his sister, Fanny Emily, are buried in the Churchyard. In 1925 the endowment was increased by £1,000 in his memory, by his wife, Maria Theresa. The plaque is surrounded by alabaster, carved with acoms and oak leaves.
Walter Henry Chaffey. He was a faithful verger and churchwarden for 25 years and a member of the choir for 71 years. Quiet, modest and efficient, keenly interested in ecclesiastical law and anything to do with the Church, he never failed in his duty to it. He came from a long line of Lulworth Chaffeys and many of his family still live in East and West Lulworth. He is buried in the Churchyard.
Nave
The Rev. Benjamin Bodycombe (small crucifix above the pulpit). A widower, he married his second wife in the Church. He suffered much ill-health and died after five years as Vicar, and he and his wife are buried in the Churchyard. He took a great interest in the music, and in young people.
Mary Frances Urquhart. Her husband Major Charles James Urquhart built "Oswalds" (now Bincleaves) and after he died she lived at Spring Cottage.
Florence Rose Mary Robson was daughter of the above and wife of Colonel Henry Denne Robson. They also lived at Oswalds. "She was the life and soul of the village," says one who knew her.
Katherine Williams, wife of Regtl, Quartermaster Sergt. William Henry Williams, son of Robert Williams, one of the fishermen of West Lulworth. Her son by her first marriage was:
John Beare, Lance-Corporal, R.E., who died, aged 25, as a prisoner-of-war in Japan in the Second World War.
North Aisle
William Tucker of St. Andrews, another faithful churchwarden for many years in the time of the Rev. W. P. Schuster. He was a popular local farmer, and is buried in the Churchyard.
Jack Stewart Newcombe, Pilot Officer, R.A.F., aged 21, and his brother Gordon Clifford Newcombe, Lieut., R.N., H.M.S. Glorious, aged 25. Both killed flying. Their mother and step-father, Major and Mrs. Campbell, lived at 8 Coastguard Cottages. They were "Two fine young men".
Lychgate
Captain Frederick Godfrey Schreiber, R. N. (Retd.), built the Lychgate in memory of his wife, Agnes Winifred, who died in 1949. It was dedicated by the Bishop of Salisbury in 1953 and is built of oak with a tiled roof. His own name is now inscribed there too. He died in 1966 after living at Stair House for 33 years. Capt Schreiber was a very generous benefactor, he donated £500 to the rebuilding of the Tower, with which work he was much involved. He gave £1,000 4% Consols to form "The Schreiber Trust" in 1954, which is primarily for the general upkeep of the Churchyard, particularly the Lychgate and the Schreiber grave and monument. The brass altar cross was another gift in memory of his wife.
Churchyard
There are many interesting people buried in the Churchyard, villagers both well-known and lesser-known, who all played their part in shaping the life of West Lulworth.
The old Norman Church, which stood on the north side of the main street, near the village stores, described as "very ancient, the smallest I ever saw" in 1791 by John O'Keefe, had originally one aisle, a low square tower, under which was the gallery, reached from the churchyard by an outside flight of stone steps and a small porch on the south side. In 1842 an extension was made, bringing the outside wall level with the porch and thus giving the Church a curiously lop-sided appearance.
In the gallery sat the choir with its flutes, violins, 'cello and double bass. Much of the music was written by local musicians, and many in the village remember hearing of the parts played by their grandparents.
By 1869 the old Church had become dilapidated and inadequate for the needs of the inhabitants of West Lulworth. It was very close to cottages on either side, and the Rev. William Gildea, curate of Winfrith and later a Canon (non resident) of Salisbury Cathedral, whose living it was, of an annual value of about £130, arranged for the building of the new Church and Vicarage on a far more convenient site.
The new Church of the Holy Trinity was built from the designs of Mr. John Hicks of Dorchester, but owing to his death, was carried out by Mr. R. G. Crickmay of Weymouth, the pulpit, font, prayer desk and other internal fittings being from his designs. Messrs. Wellspring & Son, of Dorchester, were the builders. The Dorset County Chronicle of Thursday, 12th May, 1870 states: "The style is Early Geometrical Gothic, and it is built of Purbeck stone, the carved, moulded and highly finished portions of the stonework generally are of Bath freestone. The material of the old Parish Church was used as much as possible. The letters on the moulding over the east window of the transept (behind the organ) stood over a sixteenth-century window in the north wall of the old Church, and read 'Robertus Lulleworth'" presumably the name of an ancient Lord of the Manor, after whom the village is named. "The rear arch springs from demi-angels bearing shields. In the chancel is an oak bench with carved framing and panels of the seventeenth century, which has been restored." (A photograph of a sketch of the old Church is in the vestry.)
The foundation stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, wife of Nathaniel Bond. Esq., of Holme Priory, the fifth daughter of the Second Earl of Eldon. "The stone itself was found buried a foot or two underground in the old churchyard. It now supports four arches, and underneath it was placed a glass bottle containing a newspaper and one or two coins of the year". The brass plate can be seen behind the base of the lectern, and the inscription reads "This stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, June 1st 1869, William Gildea, Vicar, William Randall, Thomas Randall, Jun.. Churchwardens".
The Church was consecrated by the Bishop of Salisbury, Dr. George Moberley, on 11th May, 1870, "In a fierce gale of wind accompanied by heavy rain", in the presence of twenty-five other clergy, the churchwardens and many parishioners and friends.
In his memorandum of November, 1879, the Rev. W. Gildea states: "The Communion Table is made of oak cut out of the beams of the old Church roof, which were much decayed except in the centre".
"Some of the wood in the reredos was wreck picked up at sea and still has trace of the paint of the vessel to which it belonged. The three panels of the reredos were painted by Miss Hicks, daughter of the architect."
The carved panels on either side of the oak reredos, come from Oberammergau. They are carved in deep relief in lime wood, and are the work of Hans Mayer, the son of Josef Mayer, who on three occasions, in the years 1870, 1880 and 1890, acted "Christus" in the Passion Play.
It was after a lecture on the Passion Play given in Lulworth in 1894, by Mr. Arthur Evans, that the villagers heard of the beautiful wood carving at Oberammergau and decided to start a fund to purchase some for the Church. The panels represent the Birth and Baptism of Jesus, the Crucifixion and the Supper at Emmaus. They were placed there in 1895.
The lectern stem and base contain woods from Europe, Asia, Africa and America. The eagle standing on its globe was executed by Messrs. Case, Strand, London.
The Rev. William Gildea was a keen amateur woodworker. Helped by Mr. Basil Sprague, who turned the wood pillars, capitals and bases, and by Mr. John Chaffey, he executed the altar, reredos woodwork, altar rails and the stem of the lectern.
The beautiful carving of the columns and corbels was done by Mr. Benjamin Grassby of Dorchester and was the gift of Mrs. Gildea. The capitals are of French Early Gothic foliage variety.
The illuminated texts over the arches of the Nave were painted by Mr. Thomas Randall of Hamboro’ Farm, who died a few weeks before completion of the work. Members of the Randall family were churchwardens for over 100 years. Mr. Matthew Randall had been chiefly instrumental in adding an aisle to the old Church, and took a great interest in the building of the new one. Mr. William Randall acted as churchwarden throughout the seventeen years of the Rev. W. Gildea's incumbency.
For several years before his death in 1981, Mr. P. J. Franklin , F.C.LO.B., gave generously of his time and expert knowledge; arranged for the complete redecoration of the church; and for the illuminated texts to be repainted by Mr. F. E. J. Chinchen of Lulworth Camp.
The first couple to be married in the new church, on 16th February, 1871, were James George Dorey, aged 23, and Maria Eliza Saunders, aged 24, grandparents of Mr. Walter Dorey, who is the last of the West Lulworth Doreys, a family whose names appear in the earliest registers from 1745. Unfortunately the older registers dating back to the sixteenth century were destroyed by fire.
The earliest mention of a curate is Sir Peter Rosse, 1553. Later names are: S. Haines, 1753; Benjamin Thomton, 1777; John Bale, 1789; Robert Goodrich, 1803; Franklin Tonkin, 1845; J. G. Fisher, 1847; Edward Dix Wood, 1850; Cornell P. West, 1852; Joseph Maskell, 1855; John Wynne, 1857; W. A. Bayley, 1861.
The continued list of Vicars is behind the Font.
The first, the Rev. William Gildea, was obviously a man of great character and many talents. His wife, five sons. and four daughters, together with his large staff at the Vicarage, centred village life around the Church. There is no doubt that he largely financed the building himself, with the aid of loans from Lord Eldon, the Rev. Eldon Bankes, and Nathaniel Bond, Esq.
The Rev. W. Percy Schuster and his family also had an outstanding influence, and provided the Church with most of its stained-glass windows and many essential adornments.
The Parish Church is now included in the list of buildings of special architectural or historic interest.
Tower
The battlemented tower was completed after the Church was consecrated. It was enlarged in 1888 at a cost of £600; two original bells were cast into one and four added in 1892 and a sixth in 1903. The bellringers were very active and the bells rang out to welcome important visitors, mark notable events, etc. In 1911, 1,260 changes were rung in 43 minutes! The weight of the bells varied from 11 cwts. to 4 cwts. They unfortunately proved too heavy for the Belfry, which was demolished and rebuilt in 1952-53, this time at a cost of £6,000. (See photographs in vestry.) The bells were all sold except the:
Tenor - "Through all the changing scenes of life"
III - "Where sweetly chimes this bell
O' er sea and hill and dell
May Jesus Christ be praised"
both dated 1892.
Without the enthusiasm of Lady Fripp, and much help from Captain Schreiber (see later), the tower might never have been rebuilt. Lady Fripp organized a large fête and raised money in many other ways. She also made many gifts to the Church. Sir Alfred and Lady Fripp came to the Mill House in 1911; later Weston was built for them (designed by Lutyens). His father and uncle, Alfred and George Fripp were both well-known artists and painted beautiful water-colours of the old cottages, the Mill pond, the Cove and the rocks of the spring, before the waterworks took away its charm. Sir Alfred, (surgeon to King Edward VII), and Lady Fripp were most popular in the village, and gladly attended to the health of any local sick children. They are both buried in the Churchyard. The close connection of the family with West Lulworth, happily still continues. The Jubilee Clock, made by Messrs. Potts & Co., of Leeds, at an estimated cost of £130, was added in 1897. The clock chimes were reset by Colonel Robert Hamblin, in memory of his wife, Mary, in 1972. He left a legacy of £1,000 to the Church, to which they were both very devoted and generous.
Stained-Glass Windows
The east window was given by Messrs. R. and J. A. Williams of Bridehead, near Dorchester. The west window was given anonymously in 1898, the stained glass is by Kempe and is exceptionally good - a close composition in sombre colours.
The north and south windows in the Sanctuary are in memory of the Rev. W. P. Schuster’s brother, Herbert L. Schuster, Esq. The window in the Chancel is in memory of his sister, Miss Fanny Emily Schuster, and another brother, the Rev. Edmond Vemon Schuster, Rector of Haughton Dale, Lancashire.
The south window and brass plate near the pulpit recall the Rev. John Henry Lonsdale. He was a keen fisherman, a friend of Alfred Fripp since their student days, and frequently officiated in the Church. He loved Lulworth and the little sailing ships which unloaded coal for the Castle and village at the old store in the Cove. Sometimes their anchors cut adrift and caused serious damage to the fishermen's nets, which at that time were hauled in from the mouth of the Cove to under Bindon Hill by eight men. This delightful window, and also payments for divers from Weymouth to remove anchors and other offending obstacles, were given by relatives and friends of this much-loved Dorset parson.
The other south window in the Nave, by A. C. Moore, is in memory of Isaac Fryer, Esq., who in gratitude for the recovery of health of his daughter in 1874, founded "The Fryer Trust" - for the distribution of coals, cash or clothing in the village at Christmas. Inflation, alas, has now made this Trust of little value. It is administered by the Parish Council. This same daughter, Mrs. Russell, when in Lulworth, lived with her crippled child at "Old Sea View" (now the Mill House). When the child died aged 14, the Rev. W. P. Schuster wrote of her as "One who in her short life, set a bright example of faith and hope and patience amid much bodily suffering".
The two north windows in the Nave are in memory of Maria Theresa Schuster, wife of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, whose memorial plaque is in the Chancel; and of Christopher John Claud Schuster, who was sadly killed in action only three months before the end of the First World War. Aged 19, he was the only son of Sir Claud Schuster, afterwards Baron of Ceme, who lived at Gatton Cottage (now Gatton House) and with his wife is buried in the Churchyard. Sir Claud was a nephew of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, and often read the lessons in the Church. The stained glass is beautiful and portrays St. George slaying the dragon, on the left side, and St. Christopher on the right.
Memorial Plaques
Chancel
John Wordsworth, Bishop of Salisbury, son of Bishop Christopher Wordsworth 'Man of Letters'. He officiated at services whenever he was staying at his seaside home, 'Bishop's Cottage', and was a great friend to everyone in the village. His daughter. Rose Salome, was christened in August, 1900 and his granddaughter, Rosa Jane Pelly, in April, 1931, in the Church. His wife is buried in the Churchyard. The plaque is composed of alabaster and opus sectile, bearing the Diocesan and Wordsworth Arms, executed by Messrs. Powell, Whitefriars, London.
William Percy Schuster, Vicar for 27 years until his death. He and his wife, mother, brothers and sister were devoted to the Church, and their generosity is recorded in many of the old Parish Magazines. He and his wife and his sister, Fanny Emily, are buried in the Churchyard. In 1925 the endowment was increased by £1,000 in his memory, by his wife, Maria Theresa. The plaque is surrounded by alabaster, carved with acoms and oak leaves.
Walter Henry Chaffey. He was a faithful verger and churchwarden for 25 years and a member of the choir for 71 years. Quiet, modest and efficient, keenly interested in ecclesiastical law and anything to do with the Church, he never failed in his duty to it. He came from a long line of Lulworth Chaffeys and many of his family still live in East and West Lulworth. He is buried in the Churchyard.
Nave
The Rev. Benjamin Bodycombe (small crucifix above the pulpit). A widower, he married his second wife in the Church. He suffered much ill-health and died after five years as Vicar, and he and his wife are buried in the Churchyard. He took a great interest in the music, and in young people.
Mary Frances Urquhart. Her husband Major Charles James Urquhart built "Oswalds" (now Bincleaves) and after he died she lived at Spring Cottage.
Florence Rose Mary Robson was daughter of the above and wife of Colonel Henry Denne Robson. They also lived at Oswalds. "She was the life and soul of the village," says one who knew her.
Katherine Williams, wife of Regtl, Quartermaster Sergt. William Henry Williams, son of Robert Williams, one of the fishermen of West Lulworth. Her son by her first marriage was:
John Beare, Lance-Corporal, R.E., who died, aged 25, as a prisoner-of-war in Japan in the Second World War.
North Aisle
William Tucker of St. Andrews, another faithful churchwarden for many years in the time of the Rev. W. P. Schuster. He was a popular local farmer, and is buried in the Churchyard.
Jack Stewart Newcombe, Pilot Officer, R.A.F., aged 21, and his brother Gordon Clifford Newcombe, Lieut., R.N., H.M.S. Glorious, aged 25. Both killed flying. Their mother and step-father, Major and Mrs. Campbell, lived at 8 Coastguard Cottages. They were "Two fine young men".
Lychgate
Captain Frederick Godfrey Schreiber, R. N. (Retd.), built the Lychgate in memory of his wife, Agnes Winifred, who died in 1949. It was dedicated by the Bishop of Salisbury in 1953 and is built of oak with a tiled roof. His own name is now inscribed there too. He died in 1966 after living at Stair House for 33 years. Capt Schreiber was a very generous benefactor, he donated £500 to the rebuilding of the Tower, with which work he was much involved. He gave £1,000 4% Consols to form "The Schreiber Trust" in 1954, which is primarily for the general upkeep of the Churchyard, particularly the Lychgate and the Schreiber grave and monument. The brass altar cross was another gift in memory of his wife.
Churchyard
There are many interesting people buried in the Churchyard, villagers both well-known and lesser-known, who all played their part in shaping the life of West Lulworth.
I berated myself all the way from the banks of the Medway up the A249 to Sittingbourne, telling myself it would be a wasted trip as clearly the church wouldn't be open. I had, in fairness, just struck out three churches in a row that were closed.
I arrived at the church, found a place to park.
There were no ride and stride signs, nothing to indicate it was open.
More dark mutterings to myself.
As I walked to the churchyard, families were coming out of the park next door, workers were clearing ivy from the wall surrounding the churchyard.
The porch gate had a lock on it, as before, but closer inspection showed it to not actually locking the gate. I tried it and the gate opened.
The next door was also unlocked, so I went through, and was in a void before the inner door.
I pushed and it did not yield.
I opened the middle door to let some light in, found the latch, pushed down and the door swung open to reveal a huge space.
To the west was the interior of the huge tower, big enough to fit some churches in. No ropes now hang down to ring bells.
I could find no light switches, so had to make do with natural light, meaning some details might have been missed.
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The massive 14th century tower grabs attention immediately, but just by the door is a most mysterious headstone which commemorates a man killed by a rocket at an early Guy Fawke`s celebration. Inside, the south aisle is almost as wide as the nave and has a rare rood loft staircase that runs in the thickness of the wall rather than up a spiral staircase. There is little stained glass but the east window, by the firm of Ward and Hughes is rather a masterpiece, with most of the subjects being real portraits – especially the figures of St George and St Uriel. An inscription nearby tells the whole story. At the junction of nave and chancel is a rare benefactions board which is carved to look like a memorial – look out for Faith Hope and Charity. The medieval vestry at the north east corner has an original shuttered window – a rare survival indeed, whilst under the huge tower is a benefactions board recording gifts to dredgermen`s widows. Now you don’t find them very often!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Milton+Regis
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MILTON,
OR, more properly, Middleton, lies the next parish north-westward from Sittingborne, last described, and seems to have taken its name from the Saxon Midletun, a name denoting its situation in the middle part of this county.
THE PARISH of Milton is most of it situated on low flat ground, and extends from the high London road as far as the waters of the Swale northward, adjoining to which, the marshes in this parish are both fresh and salt, of a very large extent. In the southern or upper part of the parish, next to the London road, is a small hamlet, called from the soil Chalkwell, in which there are two modern-built houses of the better sort, the lower most of which has a large tan-yard belonging to it; near it there rise some springs, which fill several large ponds, the reservoirs for a corn mill below them, after which they run along the east skirts of the town, which are a continued swamp of watry bogs, into the creek below. The town, antiently called the king's town of Milton, as being part of the antient possessions of the crown, is situated about half a mile from the high London road, at the eastern boundary of the parish, the greatest part of it on the knole of a hill, extending mostly down the east side of it to the head of the creek, which flows north-westward from hence, and at two miles distance, after several meandrings, joins the waters of the Swale. It has a very indifferent character for health, owing both to the badness of the water, and the gross unwholesome air to which it is subject from its watry situation; nor is it in any degree pleasant, the narrow streets, or rather lanes in it, being badly paved, and for the most part inhabited by seafaring persons, fishermen, and oyster-dredgers.
Its commodious situation for navigation near the Swale, to which the town then stood much nearer than it does at present, caused it to be frequented by the Danes, in their piratical excursions into this county, particularly in 893, these pirates, who had been ravaging. France and the Low Countries, being distressed for subsistence, turned their thoughts towards England, for the sake of plunder: for this purpose, with one of their fleets, they sailed up to Apledore, and with the other, consisting of about eighty ships, under the command of Hastings their captain, they entered the mouth of the river Thames, and landing in this parish built themselves a fortress or castle here. Asserius writes, anno 892, Hastengus fecit sibi firmissimum oppidum apud Middeltunam. Sax. Chron. anno 893, interpreted, Arcem extruxit. Simon Dunelm, coll. 151, H. Huntingdon, lib. 5, Florence of Worcester, p. 595, and Chron. Malros, Fecit munitionem. Spelman, in his Life of Alfred, says, Dani castra validis operibus communiunt. This fortress was erected at a place called Kemsleydowne, in the marshes, about midway between the town and the mouth of the creek, the scite of which is still visible, and being overgrown with wood and bushes, has obtained the name of Castberough. (fn. 1) It is of a square form, and is surrounded by a high bank thrown up, and a broad ditch. There is a raised causeway, very plainly to be seen, leading from it towards the seashore. From this fortress they not only made their excursions and plundered the neighbouring country, but secured themselves against such power as the king might send against them.
This town of Milton being part of the royal demesnes, was a cause of its being destroyed by earl Godwin, who being at variance with Edward the Consessor, came here, with a large force, in the year 1052, and burned this town, then of good condition, to the ground; and afterwards ransacked and spoiled many other of the king's estates throughout the county. After which it does not seem to have been ever restored to its former state.
Its condition in the reign of queen Elizabeth may be seen by the survey, made by her order in the 8th year of her reign; by which it appears, that there were then in this town, houses inhabited one hundred and thirty, persons lacking habitations six, landing-places four, one called Fluddmill keye, appertaining to Sir Henry Cheney; the second, Whitlock's key, now the Town key; the third, Reynolds's, now Page's key; and the fourth, Hamond key, appertaining to Thomas Hayward, now Huggins's key; ships and vessels twenty-six, of which twenty were under ten tons; the rest were of twelve, sixteen, and twenty tons; and persons occupied in trade and fishing twenty four.
Since which the town of Milton has considerably increased, as well in the number of its houses and inhabitants, as in its wealth and trade. The number of houses at present is about two hundred and thirty, which are supposed to contain about twelve hundred inhabitants.
The trade of it chiefly consists in the traffic carrying on weekly at the four wharfs in it, where the corn and commodities of the neighbouring country are shipped for London, and goods of every sort brought back again in return; and in the fishery for oysters, a further account of which will be given hereafter. Besides which, the several mills here do not contribute a little to the benefit of this place; four of these are employed in the grinding of corn, and dressing it into flour; and the fifth, called Perrywinckle mill, was some few years ago applied to the manufacturing of pearl-barley, which used to be imported from Holland; and it was supposed to be the only mill in the kingdom where that article was brought to the same perfection as in Holland, but this manufacture for want of due encouragement has been since discontinued.
The town of Milton is governed by a a portreve, who is chosen annually on St. James's day, by the inhabitants of the parish paying church and poor's rates; whose office is, to oversee the market, and preserve good order within the town, and to execute the office of clerk of the market in all matters, within the hundreds of Milton and Marden; he likewise sets the price of all things which come to the keys, or any other creek within the hundred, being such things as head officers in other towns may set the prices on
The market, which is a very plentiful one for all sorts of butchers meat, poultry, &c. is held on a Saturday weekly, at the shambles, in the center of the town. Adjoining to them is the market-house, having a clock, and a bell, which is rung not only for the purpose of the market, but for the calling of the parshioners to church, for funerals, and for occasional parish meetings. At a small distance northward from the shambles is a king of court-house, being a very low old-timbered tenement, where the courts of the manor are kept, and other meetings held; at other times it is made use of as the school house; underneath it is the town prison.
The school is endowed with the annual sum of nine pounds, an account of which may be seen hereafter, among the charitable benefactions to this parish. The master is appointed by the minister and churchwardens. Nine or ten poor boys are taught to read and write in it.
There is a fair, which used to be held on the feast of St. Margaret, July 13, now, by the alteration of the stile, on the 24th of that month, and the two following days.
The lands in this parish, near the town, and especially on the lower or northern part of it, are very rich and sertile. Adjoining to these are the marshes, which extend to the waters of the Swale. Below the hill westward there is another streamlet, which having turned a mill near the vicarage, runs on not far distant from the church, and court-lodge, situated about half a mile northward below the present town, near which the former one destroyed by Earl Godwin is supposed to have once stood.
In the north-west part of this parish, among the marshes, there is a decoy for wild fowl, the only one, that I know of, in this part of the county. The fowl caught in it, are much esteemed for their size and flavor. Great numbers of them are weekly taken and sent up to London.
In this parish, at a small distance northward from Bobbing-place, is a farm called the Quintin farm, which shews that diversion to have been formerly used in it. (fn. 2)
THE FISHERY belonging to the manor and hundred of Milton is of very considerable account. It seems to have been granted by king John, by his charter, in his 7th year, to the abbot and convent of Faversham, by the description of the fisheries of Milton, which the men of Seasalter then held by the yearly rent of twenty shillings, payable at his manor of Milton, and by doing therefrom the customs and service which were wont to be to it.
King Edward III. in his 4th year, confirmed this grant, as did king Henry VI. and this fishery remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was surrendered up into the king's hands, together with all its possessions.
After which, the fee simple of this fishery remained with the manor in the hands of the crown, till the 10th year of king Charles I. when it was passed away, with it, by the words recited in the grant then made of the manor, to Sir Ed. Browne and Christ. Favell, as will be more fully mentioned below; after which, James Herbert, esq. coming into the possession of it, by the settlement of it from his father Philip, earl of Pembroke, he in the 26th year of king Charles II. obtained a fresh grant of this fishery, against which there was a quo warranto brought in the reign of queen Anne, on a petition of the fishermen of Rochester and Stroud, to shew by what authority they, the grantees, kept courts within their manor of Milton, and restrained the fishermen of those and the adjacent towns, from fishing and dredging for oysters within this hundred and manor: but on a trial had at bar, a verdict was given in his favor. Since which it has continued down, in like manner as the manor of Milton, to the right hon. Philip, viscount Wenman, and Mrs. Anne Herbert, who are at this time proprietors of this fishery, together with the manor.
The company of Fishermen, or Dredgers, of this fishery, hold it by lease from the owners of the manor, at the yearly rent of one hundred pounds and four bushels of oysters. They are governed by their particular officers, under certain rules or bye-laws, made by antient custom at the court baron of the manor. There are now about one hundred and forty freemen belonging to it.
The oysters produced from these grounds, within the limits of this fishery, are usually called Milton Natives, and are esteemed the finest and richest flavored of any in Europe. They are supposed to be the same that Juvenal particularly describes, in his fourth satire, as being reckoned a delicacy even in his time, in these words, satire iv. l. 144:
— Rutupinove edita fundo Ostrea, callebat primo deprendere morsu.
The sum usually returned for these oysters is from 3000l. to 7000l. per annum. The Dutch have been supposed by many, to have engrossed this article of luxury; but they expend but a very small part of the above sums, and sometimes none, for the space of seven years together.
IN THE WESTERN PART of this parish there are several hundred acres of coppice-wood, which are adjoining to a much larger tract of the like sort, extending southward almost as far as Binbury pound, on the west side of Stockbury-valley, for the space of near five miles. These woods, especially those in and near this parish, are noted for the great plenty of chesnut stubs interspersed promiscuously throughout them, which, from the quick and strait growth of this king of wood, makes them very valuable. These are so numerous in them, as to give name to most of these woods near Milton, which, besides their particular names to each of them, are usually called by the general name of Chesnut-woods. And in the presentment made of the customs of the manor of Milton in 1575, it is mentioned, that the occupiers of the three mills holden of the manor should gather yearly for the lord of it nine bushels of chestenottes, in Chestnott wood, or pay eighteen-pence by the year to the queen, who then had the manor in her own hands, and was possessed of three hundred acres of chesnut wood within this hundred.
¶These chesnuts are undoubtedly the indigenuous growth of Britain, planted by the hand of nature. They are interspersed throughout the whole tract, without any form or regularity, and are many of them, by their appearance, of great age; and by numbers of them, which now seem almost worn out and perishing, being made use of as the termini or boundaries, as well of private property as of parishes, it is plain they were first pitched upon, in preference to others, for that purpose, as being the largest and most antient ones of any then existing; and as these are hardly ever cut down or altered, they must have stood sacred to this use from the first introduction of private property into this kingdom, and the first division of it into parishes. Four letters were printed in 1771, after having been read before the Royal Society, two of which were written by Dr. Ducarel, and the other two by Mr. Thorpe and Mr. Hasted, to prove that chesnut-trees were the indigenous growth of this kingdom, in answer to an idea of the hon. Daines Barrington, who had a wish to establish a contrary opinion.
DR. PLOT says, that Herba Britannica, which Twyne and Johnson think to be bistort, Trisolium acetosum, or Oxys; Empetron, quæ est petrafindula Britanniæ prope peculiaris, and Crocus, were found at Milton by Scribonius Largus, when he came into Britain with the emperor Claudius. And he further says, that Crocus sativus, saffron, was heretofore sown and gathered (as now at Walden, in Essex) at Milton, and quotes for his authority, a manuscript rental of the manor of Milton, in the library of Christ-church, Canterbury.
MILTON is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Sittingborne.
The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It is a large handsome building, consisting of two isles and two chancels, the southernmost of which belongs to the manor of Northwood. It has a well built tower at the west end, in which are five bells. In this church, among others, were formerly the arms of Barry, Diggs, Finch, of the Five Ports, of Norwood and Norton, with their several crests, trophies, and banners; of Marten quartering Boteler; one coat, Barry, argent and azure, on a canton of the first, a bird of the second; Argent, three bends azure, within a bordure, eight mullets; Gules, a fess or, between three mullets, argent; and in one of the windows, a man kneeling, with a coat of arms, Six lions rampant, three and three, and underneath, Orate paia Guliel Savage Armigi.
Mauricius ap John, rector of St. George's, in Exeter, was buried in the choir of this church, as appears by his will, anno 1499.
In the year 1070, being the 5th year of his reign, William the Conqueror gave to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, the church of Middelton, and the tenths of all the products accruing from that manor, and the tenths of all its appurtenances, of the land, wood, meadows, and water, excepting the tenths of honey, and rent paid in money. (fn. 12)
Pope Lucius XI. in 1144, at the petition of abbot Hugh de Trottesclive, confirmed the annual pension of ten marcs from this church to that abbey.
In 1168, the conventual church of St. Augustine was the greatest part of it burnt; on which account this church was allotted to the sacristy there, for the repair of it. (fn. 13) But they did not keep it long, for in 1178, at the king's instance, they gave it up, and lost all property both in the church, and the advowson of it. A composition was entered into between the archbishop and the abbot in 1182, concerning the privileges and exemptions of the latter; when it was agreed, that the archdeacon, or his official, should receive his accustomed dues and procurations from the churches of St. Augustine, excepting those of Minster, Northborne, and Chistelet, and from this church likewise, when the monks should again get possession of the appropriation of it.
Four years after which, the abbot demised to the prioress of St. Sexburg of Shepey, the tiches which his monastery possessed, in right of this church, in Bobbing, at the yearly rent of ten shillings, on condition that all housekeepers, which should be on the estates from which they arose, should yearly repair to this the mother church, with their oblations, on Christmas-day, the Purification, and Easter day. And in 1188, the abbot demised to the prioress there, the tenths of Westlonde, within her parish, for the rent of fourteen shillings, payable yearly to the sacrist of St. Augustine.
About the year 1198, the abbot and convent recovered this church, which was then become vacant by the death of one Franco, the person to whom they had given it up, at the instance of king Henry. But they had kept it but a small time, before the archbishop disturbed them in their possession of it. However, by the mediation of mutual friends, and at the king's request, that he would not molest them in their appropriation of it; he out of respect to the king, ratified this church to them, to be possessed by them for ever. (fn. 14)
There was a pension of forty shillings payably yearly from this church, with the chapel belonging to it, to the above monastery, which, with the other pensions from their several churches, was given up by agreement in 1242, for a compensation out of the profits of the church of Preston.
The abbot and convent, among the extensive privileges from the papal see, had obtained an exemption from all archiepiscopal authority, and about the year 1295 made an institution of several new deanries, and apportioned the several churches belonging to his monastery, to each of them, according to their vicinity; one of these was the deanry of Lenham, in which this church was included. This raised great contests with the several archbishops, and after more than five years altercation, the abbot was stripped of these exemptions, and was declared, by the pope's bull, to be subject to the archbishop's jurisdiction, in like manner as before; which entirely dissolved these new deanries, and that of Lenham among them. (fn. 15)
Notwithstanding the abbot and convent seem to have held the appropriation of this church almost from held the appropriation of this church almost from the first grant of it, and though there had been vicars instituted to it long before this time, for Robert de Wikes, who stiles himself vicar of Middelton, by his deed in 1247, granted seven deywerks of land, with the houses built on it, for the habitation of the vicar of Middelton, for the time being; and the abbot and convent had in 1286, assigned a portion for the maintenance of the vicar here; yet there does not appear to have been any regular endowment of a vicarage to it, till the reign of king Edward III. when archbishop Stratford, in 1345, anno 20 Edward III. by his instrument, decreed, that the vicar of the church of Middelton, and his successors, should have the usual mansion of the vicarage, with the garden adjoining to it, together with one acre of the glebe of the same; and that he should have, in the name of the vicarage, all manner of oblations in the church of Middelton, and in all places, situated within the bounds and limits or titheable places of it; and that they should have in the name of the vicarage, all tithes of sylva cædua, wool, lambs, calves, pigs, ducks, geese, swans, pidgeons, cheese, milk-meats, herbage, apples, pears, and other fruit, growing in gardens and orchards, pulse, flax, hemp, eggs, rushes, merchandizes, and of all mills built, or which might in future be built, within the bounds and limits or titheable places of the church, and all other small tithes whatsoever belonging to it, and all legacies left in future to it, which the rectors or vicars of it might of right or custom take; also, that the vicars, in right of the vicarage, should have of the religious, the annual pension of 4s. (fn. 16) sterling, one seam or quarter of corn, and three quarters or seams of barley, on the feast of St. Michael, at Middelton, by them to be yearly paid, on pain of the sequestration of the fruits and profits of the church, belonging to the religious, to be laid on as often and whenever they should cease in the payment of the pension or barley, or should not pay either of them in the time above-mentioned.
But that the vicars should undergo the burthen of serving by themselves, or some other fit priest, the church in divine services, in the finding of one lamp, to burn before the altar of St. Mary there, and the ministering of bread, wine, lights, and other things, which should be necessary for the celebration of divine rights in the church. The burthen likewise of the payment of tenths and other impositions, whenever they might be imposed on the English church, or incumbent on the church, for the taxation of twelve marcs, beyond the burthens allotted to the religious underneath, they should undergo at their own costs and expences.
But the burthen of the reparation and rebuilding of the chancel of the church, both within and without, and also the finding and repairing of books and vestments, and ornaments of the church, which were wont or ought of right or custom, to be found and repaired by the rectors of churches, and all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, incumbent on the church, the religious should undergo and acknowledge for ever, &c. (fn. 17)
The church and vicarage, after this, remained part of the possessions of the monastery, till the final dissolution of it, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was, with all its revenues, surrendered up into the king's hands, who by his dotation-charter, in his 33d year, settled both the appropriation of this church, and the advowson of the vicarage, among other premises, on his new-founded dean and chapter of Christchurch, Canterbury, with whom the inheritance of the parsonage still remains, the interest in the lease of it being now in the heirs of John Cockin Sole, esq. deceased, but the advowson of the vicarage the dean and chapter retain in their own hands, and are the present patrons of it.
The vicarage of Milton is valued in the king's books at 13l. 2s. 6d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 6s. 3d.
¶In 1578, there were here, dwelling-houses on hundred and eight, communicants three hundred and seventy-four. In 1640 this vicarage was valued at eighty pounds. Communicants five hundred and twenty-nine.
The antient annual pension of four shillings, one quarter of wheat, and three quarters of barley, stipulated to be paid by the religious as before-mentioned, still continues to be paid by the lessee of the parsonage, by the covenants of his lease.
The agreement made between the prior of the brethren of the hospital of St. John of Jersalem and the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, about king Henry the IId.'s reign, that whenever their chapel of Rodmersham should be dedicated, and the cemetery consecrated, they would diminish by it none of the mother church of Middleton's rights; has already been more fully mentioned in the account of that parish before. (fn. 18)
The old Norman Church, which stood on the north side of the main street, near the village stores, described as "very ancient, the smallest I ever saw" in 1791 by John O'Keefe, had originally one aisle, a low square tower, under which was the gallery, reached from the churchyard by an outside flight of stone steps and a small porch on the south side. In 1842 an extension was made, bringing the outside wall level with the porch and thus giving the Church a curiously lop-sided appearance.
In the gallery sat the choir with its flutes, violins, 'cello and double bass. Much of the music was written by local musicians, and many in the village remember hearing of the parts played by their grandparents.
By 1869 the old Church had become dilapidated and inadequate for the needs of the inhabitants of West Lulworth. It was very close to cottages on either side, and the Rev. William Gildea, curate of Winfrith and later a Canon (non resident) of Salisbury Cathedral, whose living it was, of an annual value of about £130, arranged for the building of the new Church and Vicarage on a far more convenient site.
The new Church of the Holy Trinity was built from the designs of Mr. John Hicks of Dorchester, but owing to his death, was carried out by Mr. R. G. Crickmay of Weymouth, the pulpit, font, prayer desk and other internal fittings being from his designs. Messrs. Wellspring & Son, of Dorchester, were the builders. The Dorset County Chronicle of Thursday, 12th May, 1870 states: "The style is Early Geometrical Gothic, and it is built of Purbeck stone, the carved, moulded and highly finished portions of the stonework generally are of Bath freestone. The material of the old Parish Church was used as much as possible. The letters on the moulding over the east window of the transept (behind the organ) stood over a sixteenth-century window in the north wall of the old Church, and read 'Robertus Lulleworth'" presumably the name of an ancient Lord of the Manor, after whom the village is named. "The rear arch springs from demi-angels bearing shields. In the chancel is an oak bench with carved framing and panels of the seventeenth century, which has been restored." (A photograph of a sketch of the old Church is in the vestry.)
The foundation stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, wife of Nathaniel Bond. Esq., of Holme Priory, the fifth daughter of the Second Earl of Eldon. "The stone itself was found buried a foot or two underground in the old churchyard. It now supports four arches, and underneath it was placed a glass bottle containing a newspaper and one or two coins of the year". The brass plate can be seen behind the base of the lectern, and the inscription reads "This stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, June 1st 1869, William Gildea, Vicar, William Randall, Thomas Randall, Jun.. Churchwardens".
The Church was consecrated by the Bishop of Salisbury, Dr. George Moberley, on 11th May, 1870, "In a fierce gale of wind accompanied by heavy rain", in the presence of twenty-five other clergy, the churchwardens and many parishioners and friends.
In his memorandum of November, 1879, the Rev. W. Gildea states: "The Communion Table is made of oak cut out of the beams of the old Church roof, which were much decayed except in the centre".
"Some of the wood in the reredos was wreck picked up at sea and still has trace of the paint of the vessel to which it belonged. The three panels of the reredos were painted by Miss Hicks, daughter of the architect."
The carved panels on either side of the oak reredos, come from Oberammergau. They are carved in deep relief in lime wood, and are the work of Hans Mayer, the son of Josef Mayer, who on three occasions, in the years 1870, 1880 and 1890, acted "Christus" in the Passion Play.
It was after a lecture on the Passion Play given in Lulworth in 1894, by Mr. Arthur Evans, that the villagers heard of the beautiful wood carving at Oberammergau and decided to start a fund to purchase some for the Church. The panels represent the Birth and Baptism of Jesus, the Crucifixion and the Supper at Emmaus. They were placed there in 1895.
The lectern stem and base contain woods from Europe, Asia, Africa and America. The eagle standing on its globe was executed by Messrs. Case, Strand, London.
The Rev. William Gildea was a keen amateur woodworker. Helped by Mr. Basil Sprague, who turned the wood pillars, capitals and bases, and by Mr. John Chaffey, he executed the altar, reredos woodwork, altar rails and the stem of the lectern.
The beautiful carving of the columns and corbels was done by Mr. Benjamin Grassby of Dorchester and was the gift of Mrs. Gildea. The capitals are of French Early Gothic foliage variety.
The illuminated texts over the arches of the Nave were painted by Mr. Thomas Randall of Hamboro’ Farm, who died a few weeks before completion of the work. Members of the Randall family were churchwardens for over 100 years. Mr. Matthew Randall had been chiefly instrumental in adding an aisle to the old Church, and took a great interest in the building of the new one. Mr. William Randall acted as churchwarden throughout the seventeen years of the Rev. W. Gildea's incumbency.
For several years before his death in 1981, Mr. P. J. Franklin , F.C.LO.B., gave generously of his time and expert knowledge; arranged for the complete redecoration of the church; and for the illuminated texts to be repainted by Mr. F. E. J. Chinchen of Lulworth Camp.
The first couple to be married in the new church, on 16th February, 1871, were James George Dorey, aged 23, and Maria Eliza Saunders, aged 24, grandparents of Mr. Walter Dorey, who is the last of the West Lulworth Doreys, a family whose names appear in the earliest registers from 1745. Unfortunately the older registers dating back to the sixteenth century were destroyed by fire.
The earliest mention of a curate is Sir Peter Rosse, 1553. Later names are: S. Haines, 1753; Benjamin Thomton, 1777; John Bale, 1789; Robert Goodrich, 1803; Franklin Tonkin, 1845; J. G. Fisher, 1847; Edward Dix Wood, 1850; Cornell P. West, 1852; Joseph Maskell, 1855; John Wynne, 1857; W. A. Bayley, 1861.
The continued list of Vicars is behind the Font.
The first, the Rev. William Gildea, was obviously a man of great character and many talents. His wife, five sons. and four daughters, together with his large staff at the Vicarage, centred village life around the Church. There is no doubt that he largely financed the building himself, with the aid of loans from Lord Eldon, the Rev. Eldon Bankes, and Nathaniel Bond, Esq.
The Rev. W. Percy Schuster and his family also had an outstanding influence, and provided the Church with most of its stained-glass windows and many essential adornments.
The Parish Church is now included in the list of buildings of special architectural or historic interest.
Tower
The battlemented tower was completed after the Church was consecrated. It was enlarged in 1888 at a cost of £600; two original bells were cast into one and four added in 1892 and a sixth in 1903. The bellringers were very active and the bells rang out to welcome important visitors, mark notable events, etc. In 1911, 1,260 changes were rung in 43 minutes! The weight of the bells varied from 11 cwts. to 4 cwts. They unfortunately proved too heavy for the Belfry, which was demolished and rebuilt in 1952-53, this time at a cost of £6,000. (See photographs in vestry.) The bells were all sold except the:
Tenor - "Through all the changing scenes of life"
III - "Where sweetly chimes this bell
O' er sea and hill and dell
May Jesus Christ be praised"
both dated 1892.
Without the enthusiasm of Lady Fripp, and much help from Captain Schreiber (see later), the tower might never have been rebuilt. Lady Fripp organized a large fête and raised money in many other ways. She also made many gifts to the Church. Sir Alfred and Lady Fripp came to the Mill House in 1911; later Weston was built for them (designed by Lutyens). His father and uncle, Alfred and George Fripp were both well-known artists and painted beautiful water-colours of the old cottages, the Mill pond, the Cove and the rocks of the spring, before the waterworks took away its charm. Sir Alfred, (surgeon to King Edward VII), and Lady Fripp were most popular in the village, and gladly attended to the health of any local sick children. They are both buried in the Churchyard. The close connection of the family with West Lulworth, happily still continues. The Jubilee Clock, made by Messrs. Potts & Co., of Leeds, at an estimated cost of £130, was added in 1897. The clock chimes were reset by Colonel Robert Hamblin, in memory of his wife, Mary, in 1972. He left a legacy of £1,000 to the Church, to which they were both very devoted and generous.
Stained-Glass Windows
The east window was given by Messrs. R. and J. A. Williams of Bridehead, near Dorchester. The west window was given anonymously in 1898, the stained glass is by Kempe and is exceptionally good - a close composition in sombre colours.
The north and south windows in the Sanctuary are in memory of the Rev. W. P. Schuster’s brother, Herbert L. Schuster, Esq. The window in the Chancel is in memory of his sister, Miss Fanny Emily Schuster, and another brother, the Rev. Edmond Vemon Schuster, Rector of Haughton Dale, Lancashire.
The south window and brass plate near the pulpit recall the Rev. John Henry Lonsdale. He was a keen fisherman, a friend of Alfred Fripp since their student days, and frequently officiated in the Church. He loved Lulworth and the little sailing ships which unloaded coal for the Castle and village at the old store in the Cove. Sometimes their anchors cut adrift and caused serious damage to the fishermen's nets, which at that time were hauled in from the mouth of the Cove to under Bindon Hill by eight men. This delightful window, and also payments for divers from Weymouth to remove anchors and other offending obstacles, were given by relatives and friends of this much-loved Dorset parson.
The other south window in the Nave, by A. C. Moore, is in memory of Isaac Fryer, Esq., who in gratitude for the recovery of health of his daughter in 1874, founded "The Fryer Trust" - for the distribution of coals, cash or clothing in the village at Christmas. Inflation, alas, has now made this Trust of little value. It is administered by the Parish Council. This same daughter, Mrs. Russell, when in Lulworth, lived with her crippled child at "Old Sea View" (now the Mill House). When the child died aged 14, the Rev. W. P. Schuster wrote of her as "One who in her short life, set a bright example of faith and hope and patience amid much bodily suffering".
The two north windows in the Nave are in memory of Maria Theresa Schuster, wife of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, whose memorial plaque is in the Chancel; and of Christopher John Claud Schuster, who was sadly killed in action only three months before the end of the First World War. Aged 19, he was the only son of Sir Claud Schuster, afterwards Baron of Ceme, who lived at Gatton Cottage (now Gatton House) and with his wife is buried in the Churchyard. Sir Claud was a nephew of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, and often read the lessons in the Church. The stained glass is beautiful and portrays St. George slaying the dragon, on the left side, and St. Christopher on the right.
Memorial Plaques
Chancel
John Wordsworth, Bishop of Salisbury, son of Bishop Christopher Wordsworth 'Man of Letters'. He officiated at services whenever he was staying at his seaside home, 'Bishop's Cottage', and was a great friend to everyone in the village. His daughter. Rose Salome, was christened in August, 1900 and his granddaughter, Rosa Jane Pelly, in April, 1931, in the Church. His wife is buried in the Churchyard. The plaque is composed of alabaster and opus sectile, bearing the Diocesan and Wordsworth Arms, executed by Messrs. Powell, Whitefriars, London.
William Percy Schuster, Vicar for 27 years until his death. He and his wife, mother, brothers and sister were devoted to the Church, and their generosity is recorded in many of the old Parish Magazines. He and his wife and his sister, Fanny Emily, are buried in the Churchyard. In 1925 the endowment was increased by £1,000 in his memory, by his wife, Maria Theresa. The plaque is surrounded by alabaster, carved with acoms and oak leaves.
Walter Henry Chaffey. He was a faithful verger and churchwarden for 25 years and a member of the choir for 71 years. Quiet, modest and efficient, keenly interested in ecclesiastical law and anything to do with the Church, he never failed in his duty to it. He came from a long line of Lulworth Chaffeys and many of his family still live in East and West Lulworth. He is buried in the Churchyard.
Nave
The Rev. Benjamin Bodycombe (small crucifix above the pulpit). A widower, he married his second wife in the Church. He suffered much ill-health and died after five years as Vicar, and he and his wife are buried in the Churchyard. He took a great interest in the music, and in young people.
Mary Frances Urquhart. Her husband Major Charles James Urquhart built "Oswalds" (now Bincleaves) and after he died she lived at Spring Cottage.
Florence Rose Mary Robson was daughter of the above and wife of Colonel Henry Denne Robson. They also lived at Oswalds. "She was the life and soul of the village," says one who knew her.
Katherine Williams, wife of Regtl, Quartermaster Sergt. William Henry Williams, son of Robert Williams, one of the fishermen of West Lulworth. Her son by her first marriage was:
John Beare, Lance-Corporal, R.E., who died, aged 25, as a prisoner-of-war in Japan in the Second World War.
North Aisle
William Tucker of St. Andrews, another faithful churchwarden for many years in the time of the Rev. W. P. Schuster. He was a popular local farmer, and is buried in the Churchyard.
Jack Stewart Newcombe, Pilot Officer, R.A.F., aged 21, and his brother Gordon Clifford Newcombe, Lieut., R.N., H.M.S. Glorious, aged 25. Both killed flying. Their mother and step-father, Major and Mrs. Campbell, lived at 8 Coastguard Cottages. They were "Two fine young men".
Lychgate
Captain Frederick Godfrey Schreiber, R. N. (Retd.), built the Lychgate in memory of his wife, Agnes Winifred, who died in 1949. It was dedicated by the Bishop of Salisbury in 1953 and is built of oak with a tiled roof. His own name is now inscribed there too. He died in 1966 after living at Stair House for 33 years. Capt Schreiber was a very generous benefactor, he donated £500 to the rebuilding of the Tower, with which work he was much involved. He gave £1,000 4% Consols to form "The Schreiber Trust" in 1954, which is primarily for the general upkeep of the Churchyard, particularly the Lychgate and the Schreiber grave and monument. The brass altar cross was another gift in memory of his wife.
Churchyard
There are many interesting people buried in the Churchyard, villagers both well-known and lesser-known, who all played their part in shaping the life of West Lulworth.
I berated myself all the way from the banks of the Medway up the A249 to Sittingbourne, telling myself it would be a wasted trip as clearly the church wouldn't be open. I had, in fairness, just struck out three churches in a row that were closed.
I arrived at the church, found a place to park.
There were no ride and stride signs, nothing to indicate it was open.
More dark mutterings to myself.
As I walked to the churchyard, families were coming out of the park next door, workers were clearing ivy from the wall surrounding the churchyard.
The porch gate had a lock on it, as before, but closer inspection showed it to not actually locking the gate. I tried it and the gate opened.
The next door was also unlocked, so I went through, and was in a void before the inner door.
I pushed and it did not yield.
I opened the middle door to let some light in, found the latch, pushed down and the door swung open to reveal a huge space.
To the west was the interior of the huge tower, big enough to fit some churches in. No ropes now hang down to ring bells.
I could find no light switches, so had to make do with natural light, meaning some details might have been missed.
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The massive 14th century tower grabs attention immediately, but just by the door is a most mysterious headstone which commemorates a man killed by a rocket at an early Guy Fawke`s celebration. Inside, the south aisle is almost as wide as the nave and has a rare rood loft staircase that runs in the thickness of the wall rather than up a spiral staircase. There is little stained glass but the east window, by the firm of Ward and Hughes is rather a masterpiece, with most of the subjects being real portraits – especially the figures of St George and St Uriel. An inscription nearby tells the whole story. At the junction of nave and chancel is a rare benefactions board which is carved to look like a memorial – look out for Faith Hope and Charity. The medieval vestry at the north east corner has an original shuttered window – a rare survival indeed, whilst under the huge tower is a benefactions board recording gifts to dredgermen`s widows. Now you don’t find them very often!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Milton+Regis
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MILTON,
OR, more properly, Middleton, lies the next parish north-westward from Sittingborne, last described, and seems to have taken its name from the Saxon Midletun, a name denoting its situation in the middle part of this county.
THE PARISH of Milton is most of it situated on low flat ground, and extends from the high London road as far as the waters of the Swale northward, adjoining to which, the marshes in this parish are both fresh and salt, of a very large extent. In the southern or upper part of the parish, next to the London road, is a small hamlet, called from the soil Chalkwell, in which there are two modern-built houses of the better sort, the lower most of which has a large tan-yard belonging to it; near it there rise some springs, which fill several large ponds, the reservoirs for a corn mill below them, after which they run along the east skirts of the town, which are a continued swamp of watry bogs, into the creek below. The town, antiently called the king's town of Milton, as being part of the antient possessions of the crown, is situated about half a mile from the high London road, at the eastern boundary of the parish, the greatest part of it on the knole of a hill, extending mostly down the east side of it to the head of the creek, which flows north-westward from hence, and at two miles distance, after several meandrings, joins the waters of the Swale. It has a very indifferent character for health, owing both to the badness of the water, and the gross unwholesome air to which it is subject from its watry situation; nor is it in any degree pleasant, the narrow streets, or rather lanes in it, being badly paved, and for the most part inhabited by seafaring persons, fishermen, and oyster-dredgers.
Its commodious situation for navigation near the Swale, to which the town then stood much nearer than it does at present, caused it to be frequented by the Danes, in their piratical excursions into this county, particularly in 893, these pirates, who had been ravaging. France and the Low Countries, being distressed for subsistence, turned their thoughts towards England, for the sake of plunder: for this purpose, with one of their fleets, they sailed up to Apledore, and with the other, consisting of about eighty ships, under the command of Hastings their captain, they entered the mouth of the river Thames, and landing in this parish built themselves a fortress or castle here. Asserius writes, anno 892, Hastengus fecit sibi firmissimum oppidum apud Middeltunam. Sax. Chron. anno 893, interpreted, Arcem extruxit. Simon Dunelm, coll. 151, H. Huntingdon, lib. 5, Florence of Worcester, p. 595, and Chron. Malros, Fecit munitionem. Spelman, in his Life of Alfred, says, Dani castra validis operibus communiunt. This fortress was erected at a place called Kemsleydowne, in the marshes, about midway between the town and the mouth of the creek, the scite of which is still visible, and being overgrown with wood and bushes, has obtained the name of Castberough. (fn. 1) It is of a square form, and is surrounded by a high bank thrown up, and a broad ditch. There is a raised causeway, very plainly to be seen, leading from it towards the seashore. From this fortress they not only made their excursions and plundered the neighbouring country, but secured themselves against such power as the king might send against them.
This town of Milton being part of the royal demesnes, was a cause of its being destroyed by earl Godwin, who being at variance with Edward the Consessor, came here, with a large force, in the year 1052, and burned this town, then of good condition, to the ground; and afterwards ransacked and spoiled many other of the king's estates throughout the county. After which it does not seem to have been ever restored to its former state.
Its condition in the reign of queen Elizabeth may be seen by the survey, made by her order in the 8th year of her reign; by which it appears, that there were then in this town, houses inhabited one hundred and thirty, persons lacking habitations six, landing-places four, one called Fluddmill keye, appertaining to Sir Henry Cheney; the second, Whitlock's key, now the Town key; the third, Reynolds's, now Page's key; and the fourth, Hamond key, appertaining to Thomas Hayward, now Huggins's key; ships and vessels twenty-six, of which twenty were under ten tons; the rest were of twelve, sixteen, and twenty tons; and persons occupied in trade and fishing twenty four.
Since which the town of Milton has considerably increased, as well in the number of its houses and inhabitants, as in its wealth and trade. The number of houses at present is about two hundred and thirty, which are supposed to contain about twelve hundred inhabitants.
The trade of it chiefly consists in the traffic carrying on weekly at the four wharfs in it, where the corn and commodities of the neighbouring country are shipped for London, and goods of every sort brought back again in return; and in the fishery for oysters, a further account of which will be given hereafter. Besides which, the several mills here do not contribute a little to the benefit of this place; four of these are employed in the grinding of corn, and dressing it into flour; and the fifth, called Perrywinckle mill, was some few years ago applied to the manufacturing of pearl-barley, which used to be imported from Holland; and it was supposed to be the only mill in the kingdom where that article was brought to the same perfection as in Holland, but this manufacture for want of due encouragement has been since discontinued.
The town of Milton is governed by a a portreve, who is chosen annually on St. James's day, by the inhabitants of the parish paying church and poor's rates; whose office is, to oversee the market, and preserve good order within the town, and to execute the office of clerk of the market in all matters, within the hundreds of Milton and Marden; he likewise sets the price of all things which come to the keys, or any other creek within the hundred, being such things as head officers in other towns may set the prices on
The market, which is a very plentiful one for all sorts of butchers meat, poultry, &c. is held on a Saturday weekly, at the shambles, in the center of the town. Adjoining to them is the market-house, having a clock, and a bell, which is rung not only for the purpose of the market, but for the calling of the parshioners to church, for funerals, and for occasional parish meetings. At a small distance northward from the shambles is a king of court-house, being a very low old-timbered tenement, where the courts of the manor are kept, and other meetings held; at other times it is made use of as the school house; underneath it is the town prison.
The school is endowed with the annual sum of nine pounds, an account of which may be seen hereafter, among the charitable benefactions to this parish. The master is appointed by the minister and churchwardens. Nine or ten poor boys are taught to read and write in it.
There is a fair, which used to be held on the feast of St. Margaret, July 13, now, by the alteration of the stile, on the 24th of that month, and the two following days.
The lands in this parish, near the town, and especially on the lower or northern part of it, are very rich and sertile. Adjoining to these are the marshes, which extend to the waters of the Swale. Below the hill westward there is another streamlet, which having turned a mill near the vicarage, runs on not far distant from the church, and court-lodge, situated about half a mile northward below the present town, near which the former one destroyed by Earl Godwin is supposed to have once stood.
In the north-west part of this parish, among the marshes, there is a decoy for wild fowl, the only one, that I know of, in this part of the county. The fowl caught in it, are much esteemed for their size and flavor. Great numbers of them are weekly taken and sent up to London.
In this parish, at a small distance northward from Bobbing-place, is a farm called the Quintin farm, which shews that diversion to have been formerly used in it. (fn. 2)
THE FISHERY belonging to the manor and hundred of Milton is of very considerable account. It seems to have been granted by king John, by his charter, in his 7th year, to the abbot and convent of Faversham, by the description of the fisheries of Milton, which the men of Seasalter then held by the yearly rent of twenty shillings, payable at his manor of Milton, and by doing therefrom the customs and service which were wont to be to it.
King Edward III. in his 4th year, confirmed this grant, as did king Henry VI. and this fishery remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was surrendered up into the king's hands, together with all its possessions.
After which, the fee simple of this fishery remained with the manor in the hands of the crown, till the 10th year of king Charles I. when it was passed away, with it, by the words recited in the grant then made of the manor, to Sir Ed. Browne and Christ. Favell, as will be more fully mentioned below; after which, James Herbert, esq. coming into the possession of it, by the settlement of it from his father Philip, earl of Pembroke, he in the 26th year of king Charles II. obtained a fresh grant of this fishery, against which there was a quo warranto brought in the reign of queen Anne, on a petition of the fishermen of Rochester and Stroud, to shew by what authority they, the grantees, kept courts within their manor of Milton, and restrained the fishermen of those and the adjacent towns, from fishing and dredging for oysters within this hundred and manor: but on a trial had at bar, a verdict was given in his favor. Since which it has continued down, in like manner as the manor of Milton, to the right hon. Philip, viscount Wenman, and Mrs. Anne Herbert, who are at this time proprietors of this fishery, together with the manor.
The company of Fishermen, or Dredgers, of this fishery, hold it by lease from the owners of the manor, at the yearly rent of one hundred pounds and four bushels of oysters. They are governed by their particular officers, under certain rules or bye-laws, made by antient custom at the court baron of the manor. There are now about one hundred and forty freemen belonging to it.
The oysters produced from these grounds, within the limits of this fishery, are usually called Milton Natives, and are esteemed the finest and richest flavored of any in Europe. They are supposed to be the same that Juvenal particularly describes, in his fourth satire, as being reckoned a delicacy even in his time, in these words, satire iv. l. 144:
— Rutupinove edita fundo Ostrea, callebat primo deprendere morsu.
The sum usually returned for these oysters is from 3000l. to 7000l. per annum. The Dutch have been supposed by many, to have engrossed this article of luxury; but they expend but a very small part of the above sums, and sometimes none, for the space of seven years together.
IN THE WESTERN PART of this parish there are several hundred acres of coppice-wood, which are adjoining to a much larger tract of the like sort, extending southward almost as far as Binbury pound, on the west side of Stockbury-valley, for the space of near five miles. These woods, especially those in and near this parish, are noted for the great plenty of chesnut stubs interspersed promiscuously throughout them, which, from the quick and strait growth of this king of wood, makes them very valuable. These are so numerous in them, as to give name to most of these woods near Milton, which, besides their particular names to each of them, are usually called by the general name of Chesnut-woods. And in the presentment made of the customs of the manor of Milton in 1575, it is mentioned, that the occupiers of the three mills holden of the manor should gather yearly for the lord of it nine bushels of chestenottes, in Chestnott wood, or pay eighteen-pence by the year to the queen, who then had the manor in her own hands, and was possessed of three hundred acres of chesnut wood within this hundred.
¶These chesnuts are undoubtedly the indigenuous growth of Britain, planted by the hand of nature. They are interspersed throughout the whole tract, without any form or regularity, and are many of them, by their appearance, of great age; and by numbers of them, which now seem almost worn out and perishing, being made use of as the termini or boundaries, as well of private property as of parishes, it is plain they were first pitched upon, in preference to others, for that purpose, as being the largest and most antient ones of any then existing; and as these are hardly ever cut down or altered, they must have stood sacred to this use from the first introduction of private property into this kingdom, and the first division of it into parishes. Four letters were printed in 1771, after having been read before the Royal Society, two of which were written by Dr. Ducarel, and the other two by Mr. Thorpe and Mr. Hasted, to prove that chesnut-trees were the indigenous growth of this kingdom, in answer to an idea of the hon. Daines Barrington, who had a wish to establish a contrary opinion.
DR. PLOT says, that Herba Britannica, which Twyne and Johnson think to be bistort, Trisolium acetosum, or Oxys; Empetron, quæ est petrafindula Britanniæ prope peculiaris, and Crocus, were found at Milton by Scribonius Largus, when he came into Britain with the emperor Claudius. And he further says, that Crocus sativus, saffron, was heretofore sown and gathered (as now at Walden, in Essex) at Milton, and quotes for his authority, a manuscript rental of the manor of Milton, in the library of Christ-church, Canterbury.
MILTON is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Sittingborne.
The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It is a large handsome building, consisting of two isles and two chancels, the southernmost of which belongs to the manor of Northwood. It has a well built tower at the west end, in which are five bells. In this church, among others, were formerly the arms of Barry, Diggs, Finch, of the Five Ports, of Norwood and Norton, with their several crests, trophies, and banners; of Marten quartering Boteler; one coat, Barry, argent and azure, on a canton of the first, a bird of the second; Argent, three bends azure, within a bordure, eight mullets; Gules, a fess or, between three mullets, argent; and in one of the windows, a man kneeling, with a coat of arms, Six lions rampant, three and three, and underneath, Orate paia Guliel Savage Armigi.
Mauricius ap John, rector of St. George's, in Exeter, was buried in the choir of this church, as appears by his will, anno 1499.
In the year 1070, being the 5th year of his reign, William the Conqueror gave to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, the church of Middelton, and the tenths of all the products accruing from that manor, and the tenths of all its appurtenances, of the land, wood, meadows, and water, excepting the tenths of honey, and rent paid in money. (fn. 12)
Pope Lucius XI. in 1144, at the petition of abbot Hugh de Trottesclive, confirmed the annual pension of ten marcs from this church to that abbey.
In 1168, the conventual church of St. Augustine was the greatest part of it burnt; on which account this church was allotted to the sacristy there, for the repair of it. (fn. 13) But they did not keep it long, for in 1178, at the king's instance, they gave it up, and lost all property both in the church, and the advowson of it. A composition was entered into between the archbishop and the abbot in 1182, concerning the privileges and exemptions of the latter; when it was agreed, that the archdeacon, or his official, should receive his accustomed dues and procurations from the churches of St. Augustine, excepting those of Minster, Northborne, and Chistelet, and from this church likewise, when the monks should again get possession of the appropriation of it.
Four years after which, the abbot demised to the prioress of St. Sexburg of Shepey, the tiches which his monastery possessed, in right of this church, in Bobbing, at the yearly rent of ten shillings, on condition that all housekeepers, which should be on the estates from which they arose, should yearly repair to this the mother church, with their oblations, on Christmas-day, the Purification, and Easter day. And in 1188, the abbot demised to the prioress there, the tenths of Westlonde, within her parish, for the rent of fourteen shillings, payable yearly to the sacrist of St. Augustine.
About the year 1198, the abbot and convent recovered this church, which was then become vacant by the death of one Franco, the person to whom they had given it up, at the instance of king Henry. But they had kept it but a small time, before the archbishop disturbed them in their possession of it. However, by the mediation of mutual friends, and at the king's request, that he would not molest them in their appropriation of it; he out of respect to the king, ratified this church to them, to be possessed by them for ever. (fn. 14)
There was a pension of forty shillings payably yearly from this church, with the chapel belonging to it, to the above monastery, which, with the other pensions from their several churches, was given up by agreement in 1242, for a compensation out of the profits of the church of Preston.
The abbot and convent, among the extensive privileges from the papal see, had obtained an exemption from all archiepiscopal authority, and about the year 1295 made an institution of several new deanries, and apportioned the several churches belonging to his monastery, to each of them, according to their vicinity; one of these was the deanry of Lenham, in which this church was included. This raised great contests with the several archbishops, and after more than five years altercation, the abbot was stripped of these exemptions, and was declared, by the pope's bull, to be subject to the archbishop's jurisdiction, in like manner as before; which entirely dissolved these new deanries, and that of Lenham among them. (fn. 15)
Notwithstanding the abbot and convent seem to have held the appropriation of this church almost from held the appropriation of this church almost from the first grant of it, and though there had been vicars instituted to it long before this time, for Robert de Wikes, who stiles himself vicar of Middelton, by his deed in 1247, granted seven deywerks of land, with the houses built on it, for the habitation of the vicar of Middelton, for the time being; and the abbot and convent had in 1286, assigned a portion for the maintenance of the vicar here; yet there does not appear to have been any regular endowment of a vicarage to it, till the reign of king Edward III. when archbishop Stratford, in 1345, anno 20 Edward III. by his instrument, decreed, that the vicar of the church of Middelton, and his successors, should have the usual mansion of the vicarage, with the garden adjoining to it, together with one acre of the glebe of the same; and that he should have, in the name of the vicarage, all manner of oblations in the church of Middelton, and in all places, situated within the bounds and limits or titheable places of it; and that they should have in the name of the vicarage, all tithes of sylva cædua, wool, lambs, calves, pigs, ducks, geese, swans, pidgeons, cheese, milk-meats, herbage, apples, pears, and other fruit, growing in gardens and orchards, pulse, flax, hemp, eggs, rushes, merchandizes, and of all mills built, or which might in future be built, within the bounds and limits or titheable places of the church, and all other small tithes whatsoever belonging to it, and all legacies left in future to it, which the rectors or vicars of it might of right or custom take; also, that the vicars, in right of the vicarage, should have of the religious, the annual pension of 4s. (fn. 16) sterling, one seam or quarter of corn, and three quarters or seams of barley, on the feast of St. Michael, at Middelton, by them to be yearly paid, on pain of the sequestration of the fruits and profits of the church, belonging to the religious, to be laid on as often and whenever they should cease in the payment of the pension or barley, or should not pay either of them in the time above-mentioned.
But that the vicars should undergo the burthen of serving by themselves, or some other fit priest, the church in divine services, in the finding of one lamp, to burn before the altar of St. Mary there, and the ministering of bread, wine, lights, and other things, which should be necessary for the celebration of divine rights in the church. The burthen likewise of the payment of tenths and other impositions, whenever they might be imposed on the English church, or incumbent on the church, for the taxation of twelve marcs, beyond the burthens allotted to the religious underneath, they should undergo at their own costs and expences.
But the burthen of the reparation and rebuilding of the chancel of the church, both within and without, and also the finding and repairing of books and vestments, and ornaments of the church, which were wont or ought of right or custom, to be found and repaired by the rectors of churches, and all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, incumbent on the church, the religious should undergo and acknowledge for ever, &c. (fn. 17)
The church and vicarage, after this, remained part of the possessions of the monastery, till the final dissolution of it, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was, with all its revenues, surrendered up into the king's hands, who by his dotation-charter, in his 33d year, settled both the appropriation of this church, and the advowson of the vicarage, among other premises, on his new-founded dean and chapter of Christchurch, Canterbury, with whom the inheritance of the parsonage still remains, the interest in the lease of it being now in the heirs of John Cockin Sole, esq. deceased, but the advowson of the vicarage the dean and chapter retain in their own hands, and are the present patrons of it.
The vicarage of Milton is valued in the king's books at 13l. 2s. 6d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 6s. 3d.
¶In 1578, there were here, dwelling-houses on hundred and eight, communicants three hundred and seventy-four. In 1640 this vicarage was valued at eighty pounds. Communicants five hundred and twenty-nine.
The antient annual pension of four shillings, one quarter of wheat, and three quarters of barley, stipulated to be paid by the religious as before-mentioned, still continues to be paid by the lessee of the parsonage, by the covenants of his lease.
The agreement made between the prior of the brethren of the hospital of St. John of Jersalem and the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, about king Henry the IId.'s reign, that whenever their chapel of Rodmersham should be dedicated, and the cemetery consecrated, they would diminish by it none of the mother church of Middleton's rights; has already been more fully mentioned in the account of that parish before. (fn. 18)
The old Norman Church, which stood on the north side of the main street, near the village stores, described as "very ancient, the smallest I ever saw" in 1791 by John O'Keefe, had originally one aisle, a low square tower, under which was the gallery, reached from the churchyard by an outside flight of stone steps and a small porch on the south side. In 1842 an extension was made, bringing the outside wall level with the porch and thus giving the Church a curiously lop-sided appearance.
In the gallery sat the choir with its flutes, violins, 'cello and double bass. Much of the music was written by local musicians, and many in the village remember hearing of the parts played by their grandparents.
By 1869 the old Church had become dilapidated and inadequate for the needs of the inhabitants of West Lulworth. It was very close to cottages on either side, and the Rev. William Gildea, curate of Winfrith and later a Canon (non resident) of Salisbury Cathedral, whose living it was, of an annual value of about £130, arranged for the building of the new Church and Vicarage on a far more convenient site.
The new Church of the Holy Trinity was built from the designs of Mr. John Hicks of Dorchester, but owing to his death, was carried out by Mr. R. G. Crickmay of Weymouth, the pulpit, font, prayer desk and other internal fittings being from his designs. Messrs. Wellspring & Son, of Dorchester, were the builders. The Dorset County Chronicle of Thursday, 12th May, 1870 states: "The style is Early Geometrical Gothic, and it is built of Purbeck stone, the carved, moulded and highly finished portions of the stonework generally are of Bath freestone. The material of the old Parish Church was used as much as possible. The letters on the moulding over the east window of the transept (behind the organ) stood over a sixteenth-century window in the north wall of the old Church, and read 'Robertus Lulleworth'" presumably the name of an ancient Lord of the Manor, after whom the village is named. "The rear arch springs from demi-angels bearing shields. In the chancel is an oak bench with carved framing and panels of the seventeenth century, which has been restored." (A photograph of a sketch of the old Church is in the vestry.)
The foundation stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, wife of Nathaniel Bond. Esq., of Holme Priory, the fifth daughter of the Second Earl of Eldon. "The stone itself was found buried a foot or two underground in the old churchyard. It now supports four arches, and underneath it was placed a glass bottle containing a newspaper and one or two coins of the year". The brass plate can be seen behind the base of the lectern, and the inscription reads "This stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, June 1st 1869, William Gildea, Vicar, William Randall, Thomas Randall, Jun.. Churchwardens".
The Church was consecrated by the Bishop of Salisbury, Dr. George Moberley, on 11th May, 1870, "In a fierce gale of wind accompanied by heavy rain", in the presence of twenty-five other clergy, the churchwardens and many parishioners and friends.
In his memorandum of November, 1879, the Rev. W. Gildea states: "The Communion Table is made of oak cut out of the beams of the old Church roof, which were much decayed except in the centre".
"Some of the wood in the reredos was wreck picked up at sea and still has trace of the paint of the vessel to which it belonged. The three panels of the reredos were painted by Miss Hicks, daughter of the architect."
The carved panels on either side of the oak reredos, come from Oberammergau. They are carved in deep relief in lime wood, and are the work of Hans Mayer, the son of Josef Mayer, who on three occasions, in the years 1870, 1880 and 1890, acted "Christus" in the Passion Play.
It was after a lecture on the Passion Play given in Lulworth in 1894, by Mr. Arthur Evans, that the villagers heard of the beautiful wood carving at Oberammergau and decided to start a fund to purchase some for the Church. The panels represent the Birth and Baptism of Jesus, the Crucifixion and the Supper at Emmaus. They were placed there in 1895.
The lectern stem and base contain woods from Europe, Asia, Africa and America. The eagle standing on its globe was executed by Messrs. Case, Strand, London.
The Rev. William Gildea was a keen amateur woodworker. Helped by Mr. Basil Sprague, who turned the wood pillars, capitals and bases, and by Mr. John Chaffey, he executed the altar, reredos woodwork, altar rails and the stem of the lectern.
The beautiful carving of the columns and corbels was done by Mr. Benjamin Grassby of Dorchester and was the gift of Mrs. Gildea. The capitals are of French Early Gothic foliage variety.
The illuminated texts over the arches of the Nave were painted by Mr. Thomas Randall of Hamboro’ Farm, who died a few weeks before completion of the work. Members of the Randall family were churchwardens for over 100 years. Mr. Matthew Randall had been chiefly instrumental in adding an aisle to the old Church, and took a great interest in the building of the new one. Mr. William Randall acted as churchwarden throughout the seventeen years of the Rev. W. Gildea's incumbency.
For several years before his death in 1981, Mr. P. J. Franklin , F.C.LO.B., gave generously of his time and expert knowledge; arranged for the complete redecoration of the church; and for the illuminated texts to be repainted by Mr. F. E. J. Chinchen of Lulworth Camp.
The first couple to be married in the new church, on 16th February, 1871, were James George Dorey, aged 23, and Maria Eliza Saunders, aged 24, grandparents of Mr. Walter Dorey, who is the last of the West Lulworth Doreys, a family whose names appear in the earliest registers from 1745. Unfortunately the older registers dating back to the sixteenth century were destroyed by fire.
The earliest mention of a curate is Sir Peter Rosse, 1553. Later names are: S. Haines, 1753; Benjamin Thomton, 1777; John Bale, 1789; Robert Goodrich, 1803; Franklin Tonkin, 1845; J. G. Fisher, 1847; Edward Dix Wood, 1850; Cornell P. West, 1852; Joseph Maskell, 1855; John Wynne, 1857; W. A. Bayley, 1861.
The continued list of Vicars is behind the Font.
The first, the Rev. William Gildea, was obviously a man of great character and many talents. His wife, five sons. and four daughters, together with his large staff at the Vicarage, centred village life around the Church. There is no doubt that he largely financed the building himself, with the aid of loans from Lord Eldon, the Rev. Eldon Bankes, and Nathaniel Bond, Esq.
The Rev. W. Percy Schuster and his family also had an outstanding influence, and provided the Church with most of its stained-glass windows and many essential adornments.
The Parish Church is now included in the list of buildings of special architectural or historic interest.
Tower
The battlemented tower was completed after the Church was consecrated. It was enlarged in 1888 at a cost of £600; two original bells were cast into one and four added in 1892 and a sixth in 1903. The bellringers were very active and the bells rang out to welcome important visitors, mark notable events, etc. In 1911, 1,260 changes were rung in 43 minutes! The weight of the bells varied from 11 cwts. to 4 cwts. They unfortunately proved too heavy for the Belfry, which was demolished and rebuilt in 1952-53, this time at a cost of £6,000. (See photographs in vestry.) The bells were all sold except the:
Tenor - "Through all the changing scenes of life"
III - "Where sweetly chimes this bell
O' er sea and hill and dell
May Jesus Christ be praised"
both dated 1892.
Without the enthusiasm of Lady Fripp, and much help from Captain Schreiber (see later), the tower might never have been rebuilt. Lady Fripp organized a large fête and raised money in many other ways. She also made many gifts to the Church. Sir Alfred and Lady Fripp came to the Mill House in 1911; later Weston was built for them (designed by Lutyens). His father and uncle, Alfred and George Fripp were both well-known artists and painted beautiful water-colours of the old cottages, the Mill pond, the Cove and the rocks of the spring, before the waterworks took away its charm. Sir Alfred, (surgeon to King Edward VII), and Lady Fripp were most popular in the village, and gladly attended to the health of any local sick children. They are both buried in the Churchyard. The close connection of the family with West Lulworth, happily still continues. The Jubilee Clock, made by Messrs. Potts & Co., of Leeds, at an estimated cost of £130, was added in 1897. The clock chimes were reset by Colonel Robert Hamblin, in memory of his wife, Mary, in 1972. He left a legacy of £1,000 to the Church, to which they were both very devoted and generous.
Stained-Glass Windows
The east window was given by Messrs. R. and J. A. Williams of Bridehead, near Dorchester. The west window was given anonymously in 1898, the stained glass is by Kempe and is exceptionally good - a close composition in sombre colours.
The north and south windows in the Sanctuary are in memory of the Rev. W. P. Schuster’s brother, Herbert L. Schuster, Esq. The window in the Chancel is in memory of his sister, Miss Fanny Emily Schuster, and another brother, the Rev. Edmond Vemon Schuster, Rector of Haughton Dale, Lancashire.
The south window and brass plate near the pulpit recall the Rev. John Henry Lonsdale. He was a keen fisherman, a friend of Alfred Fripp since their student days, and frequently officiated in the Church. He loved Lulworth and the little sailing ships which unloaded coal for the Castle and village at the old store in the Cove. Sometimes their anchors cut adrift and caused serious damage to the fishermen's nets, which at that time were hauled in from the mouth of the Cove to under Bindon Hill by eight men. This delightful window, and also payments for divers from Weymouth to remove anchors and other offending obstacles, were given by relatives and friends of this much-loved Dorset parson.
The other south window in the Nave, by A. C. Moore, is in memory of Isaac Fryer, Esq., who in gratitude for the recovery of health of his daughter in 1874, founded "The Fryer Trust" - for the distribution of coals, cash or clothing in the village at Christmas. Inflation, alas, has now made this Trust of little value. It is administered by the Parish Council. This same daughter, Mrs. Russell, when in Lulworth, lived with her crippled child at "Old Sea View" (now the Mill House). When the child died aged 14, the Rev. W. P. Schuster wrote of her as "One who in her short life, set a bright example of faith and hope and patience amid much bodily suffering".
The two north windows in the Nave are in memory of Maria Theresa Schuster, wife of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, whose memorial plaque is in the Chancel; and of Christopher John Claud Schuster, who was sadly killed in action only three months before the end of the First World War. Aged 19, he was the only son of Sir Claud Schuster, afterwards Baron of Ceme, who lived at Gatton Cottage (now Gatton House) and with his wife is buried in the Churchyard. Sir Claud was a nephew of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, and often read the lessons in the Church. The stained glass is beautiful and portrays St. George slaying the dragon, on the left side, and St. Christopher on the right.
Memorial Plaques
Chancel
John Wordsworth, Bishop of Salisbury, son of Bishop Christopher Wordsworth 'Man of Letters'. He officiated at services whenever he was staying at his seaside home, 'Bishop's Cottage', and was a great friend to everyone in the village. His daughter. Rose Salome, was christened in August, 1900 and his granddaughter, Rosa Jane Pelly, in April, 1931, in the Church. His wife is buried in the Churchyard. The plaque is composed of alabaster and opus sectile, bearing the Diocesan and Wordsworth Arms, executed by Messrs. Powell, Whitefriars, London.
William Percy Schuster, Vicar for 27 years until his death. He and his wife, mother, brothers and sister were devoted to the Church, and their generosity is recorded in many of the old Parish Magazines. He and his wife and his sister, Fanny Emily, are buried in the Churchyard. In 1925 the endowment was increased by £1,000 in his memory, by his wife, Maria Theresa. The plaque is surrounded by alabaster, carved with acoms and oak leaves.
Walter Henry Chaffey. He was a faithful verger and churchwarden for 25 years and a member of the choir for 71 years. Quiet, modest and efficient, keenly interested in ecclesiastical law and anything to do with the Church, he never failed in his duty to it. He came from a long line of Lulworth Chaffeys and many of his family still live in East and West Lulworth. He is buried in the Churchyard.
Nave
The Rev. Benjamin Bodycombe (small crucifix above the pulpit). A widower, he married his second wife in the Church. He suffered much ill-health and died after five years as Vicar, and he and his wife are buried in the Churchyard. He took a great interest in the music, and in young people.
Mary Frances Urquhart. Her husband Major Charles James Urquhart built "Oswalds" (now Bincleaves) and after he died she lived at Spring Cottage.
Florence Rose Mary Robson was daughter of the above and wife of Colonel Henry Denne Robson. They also lived at Oswalds. "She was the life and soul of the village," says one who knew her.
Katherine Williams, wife of Regtl, Quartermaster Sergt. William Henry Williams, son of Robert Williams, one of the fishermen of West Lulworth. Her son by her first marriage was:
John Beare, Lance-Corporal, R.E., who died, aged 25, as a prisoner-of-war in Japan in the Second World War.
North Aisle
William Tucker of St. Andrews, another faithful churchwarden for many years in the time of the Rev. W. P. Schuster. He was a popular local farmer, and is buried in the Churchyard.
Jack Stewart Newcombe, Pilot Officer, R.A.F., aged 21, and his brother Gordon Clifford Newcombe, Lieut., R.N., H.M.S. Glorious, aged 25. Both killed flying. Their mother and step-father, Major and Mrs. Campbell, lived at 8 Coastguard Cottages. They were "Two fine young men".
Lychgate
Captain Frederick Godfrey Schreiber, R. N. (Retd.), built the Lychgate in memory of his wife, Agnes Winifred, who died in 1949. It was dedicated by the Bishop of Salisbury in 1953 and is built of oak with a tiled roof. His own name is now inscribed there too. He died in 1966 after living at Stair House for 33 years. Capt Schreiber was a very generous benefactor, he donated £500 to the rebuilding of the Tower, with which work he was much involved. He gave £1,000 4% Consols to form "The Schreiber Trust" in 1954, which is primarily for the general upkeep of the Churchyard, particularly the Lychgate and the Schreiber grave and monument. The brass altar cross was another gift in memory of his wife.
Churchyard
There are many interesting people buried in the Churchyard, villagers both well-known and lesser-known, who all played their part in shaping the life of West Lulworth.
The church of Holy Trinity, Goodramgate, York, in the heart of the city but secluded behind the busy streets of Goodramgate and Petergate.
The church was founded in the 12th century. The present building dates mainly from the 15th century, as does the fine stained glass. The internal furniture, including traditional box pews, is largely unaltered since the 18th century.
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The old Norman Church, which stood on the north side of the main street, near the village stores, described as "very ancient, the smallest I ever saw" in 1791 by John O'Keefe, had originally one aisle, a low square tower, under which was the gallery, reached from the churchyard by an outside flight of stone steps and a small porch on the south side. In 1842 an extension was made, bringing the outside wall level with the porch and thus giving the Church a curiously lop-sided appearance.
In the gallery sat the choir with its flutes, violins, 'cello and double bass. Much of the music was written by local musicians, and many in the village remember hearing of the parts played by their grandparents.
By 1869 the old Church had become dilapidated and inadequate for the needs of the inhabitants of West Lulworth. It was very close to cottages on either side, and the Rev. William Gildea, curate of Winfrith and later a Canon (non resident) of Salisbury Cathedral, whose living it was, of an annual value of about £130, arranged for the building of the new Church and Vicarage on a far more convenient site.
The new Church of the Holy Trinity was built from the designs of Mr. John Hicks of Dorchester, but owing to his death, was carried out by Mr. R. G. Crickmay of Weymouth, the pulpit, font, prayer desk and other internal fittings being from his designs. Messrs. Wellspring & Son, of Dorchester, were the builders. The Dorset County Chronicle of Thursday, 12th May, 1870 states: "The style is Early Geometrical Gothic, and it is built of Purbeck stone, the carved, moulded and highly finished portions of the stonework generally are of Bath freestone. The material of the old Parish Church was used as much as possible. The letters on the moulding over the east window of the transept (behind the organ) stood over a sixteenth-century window in the north wall of the old Church, and read 'Robertus Lulleworth'" presumably the name of an ancient Lord of the Manor, after whom the village is named. "The rear arch springs from demi-angels bearing shields. In the chancel is an oak bench with carved framing and panels of the seventeenth century, which has been restored." (A photograph of a sketch of the old Church is in the vestry.)
The foundation stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, wife of Nathaniel Bond. Esq., of Holme Priory, the fifth daughter of the Second Earl of Eldon. "The stone itself was found buried a foot or two underground in the old churchyard. It now supports four arches, and underneath it was placed a glass bottle containing a newspaper and one or two coins of the year". The brass plate can be seen behind the base of the lectern, and the inscription reads "This stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, June 1st 1869, William Gildea, Vicar, William Randall, Thomas Randall, Jun.. Churchwardens".
The Church was consecrated by the Bishop of Salisbury, Dr. George Moberley, on 11th May, 1870, "In a fierce gale of wind accompanied by heavy rain", in the presence of twenty-five other clergy, the churchwardens and many parishioners and friends.
In his memorandum of November, 1879, the Rev. W. Gildea states: "The Communion Table is made of oak cut out of the beams of the old Church roof, which were much decayed except in the centre".
"Some of the wood in the reredos was wreck picked up at sea and still has trace of the paint of the vessel to which it belonged. The three panels of the reredos were painted by Miss Hicks, daughter of the architect."
The carved panels on either side of the oak reredos, come from Oberammergau. They are carved in deep relief in lime wood, and are the work of Hans Mayer, the son of Josef Mayer, who on three occasions, in the years 1870, 1880 and 1890, acted "Christus" in the Passion Play.
It was after a lecture on the Passion Play given in Lulworth in 1894, by Mr. Arthur Evans, that the villagers heard of the beautiful wood carving at Oberammergau and decided to start a fund to purchase some for the Church. The panels represent the Birth and Baptism of Jesus, the Crucifixion and the Supper at Emmaus. They were placed there in 1895.
The lectern stem and base contain woods from Europe, Asia, Africa and America. The eagle standing on its globe was executed by Messrs. Case, Strand, London.
The Rev. William Gildea was a keen amateur woodworker. Helped by Mr. Basil Sprague, who turned the wood pillars, capitals and bases, and by Mr. John Chaffey, he executed the altar, reredos woodwork, altar rails and the stem of the lectern.
The beautiful carving of the columns and corbels was done by Mr. Benjamin Grassby of Dorchester and was the gift of Mrs. Gildea. The capitals are of French Early Gothic foliage variety.
The illuminated texts over the arches of the Nave were painted by Mr. Thomas Randall of Hamboro’ Farm, who died a few weeks before completion of the work. Members of the Randall family were churchwardens for over 100 years. Mr. Matthew Randall had been chiefly instrumental in adding an aisle to the old Church, and took a great interest in the building of the new one. Mr. William Randall acted as churchwarden throughout the seventeen years of the Rev. W. Gildea's incumbency.
For several years before his death in 1981, Mr. P. J. Franklin , F.C.LO.B., gave generously of his time and expert knowledge; arranged for the complete redecoration of the church; and for the illuminated texts to be repainted by Mr. F. E. J. Chinchen of Lulworth Camp.
The first couple to be married in the new church, on 16th February, 1871, were James George Dorey, aged 23, and Maria Eliza Saunders, aged 24, grandparents of Mr. Walter Dorey, who is the last of the West Lulworth Doreys, a family whose names appear in the earliest registers from 1745. Unfortunately the older registers dating back to the sixteenth century were destroyed by fire.
The earliest mention of a curate is Sir Peter Rosse, 1553. Later names are: S. Haines, 1753; Benjamin Thomton, 1777; John Bale, 1789; Robert Goodrich, 1803; Franklin Tonkin, 1845; J. G. Fisher, 1847; Edward Dix Wood, 1850; Cornell P. West, 1852; Joseph Maskell, 1855; John Wynne, 1857; W. A. Bayley, 1861.
The continued list of Vicars is behind the Font.
The first, the Rev. William Gildea, was obviously a man of great character and many talents. His wife, five sons. and four daughters, together with his large staff at the Vicarage, centred village life around the Church. There is no doubt that he largely financed the building himself, with the aid of loans from Lord Eldon, the Rev. Eldon Bankes, and Nathaniel Bond, Esq.
The Rev. W. Percy Schuster and his family also had an outstanding influence, and provided the Church with most of its stained-glass windows and many essential adornments.
The Parish Church is now included in the list of buildings of special architectural or historic interest.
Tower
The battlemented tower was completed after the Church was consecrated. It was enlarged in 1888 at a cost of £600; two original bells were cast into one and four added in 1892 and a sixth in 1903. The bellringers were very active and the bells rang out to welcome important visitors, mark notable events, etc. In 1911, 1,260 changes were rung in 43 minutes! The weight of the bells varied from 11 cwts. to 4 cwts. They unfortunately proved too heavy for the Belfry, which was demolished and rebuilt in 1952-53, this time at a cost of £6,000. (See photographs in vestry.) The bells were all sold except the:
Tenor - "Through all the changing scenes of life"
III - "Where sweetly chimes this bell
O' er sea and hill and dell
May Jesus Christ be praised"
both dated 1892.
Without the enthusiasm of Lady Fripp, and much help from Captain Schreiber (see later), the tower might never have been rebuilt. Lady Fripp organized a large fête and raised money in many other ways. She also made many gifts to the Church. Sir Alfred and Lady Fripp came to the Mill House in 1911; later Weston was built for them (designed by Lutyens). His father and uncle, Alfred and George Fripp were both well-known artists and painted beautiful water-colours of the old cottages, the Mill pond, the Cove and the rocks of the spring, before the waterworks took away its charm. Sir Alfred, (surgeon to King Edward VII), and Lady Fripp were most popular in the village, and gladly attended to the health of any local sick children. They are both buried in the Churchyard. The close connection of the family with West Lulworth, happily still continues. The Jubilee Clock, made by Messrs. Potts & Co., of Leeds, at an estimated cost of £130, was added in 1897. The clock chimes were reset by Colonel Robert Hamblin, in memory of his wife, Mary, in 1972. He left a legacy of £1,000 to the Church, to which they were both very devoted and generous.
Stained-Glass Windows
The east window was given by Messrs. R. and J. A. Williams of Bridehead, near Dorchester. The west window was given anonymously in 1898, the stained glass is by Kempe and is exceptionally good - a close composition in sombre colours.
The north and south windows in the Sanctuary are in memory of the Rev. W. P. Schuster’s brother, Herbert L. Schuster, Esq. The window in the Chancel is in memory of his sister, Miss Fanny Emily Schuster, and another brother, the Rev. Edmond Vemon Schuster, Rector of Haughton Dale, Lancashire.
The south window and brass plate near the pulpit recall the Rev. John Henry Lonsdale. He was a keen fisherman, a friend of Alfred Fripp since their student days, and frequently officiated in the Church. He loved Lulworth and the little sailing ships which unloaded coal for the Castle and village at the old store in the Cove. Sometimes their anchors cut adrift and caused serious damage to the fishermen's nets, which at that time were hauled in from the mouth of the Cove to under Bindon Hill by eight men. This delightful window, and also payments for divers from Weymouth to remove anchors and other offending obstacles, were given by relatives and friends of this much-loved Dorset parson.
The other south window in the Nave, by A. C. Moore, is in memory of Isaac Fryer, Esq., who in gratitude for the recovery of health of his daughter in 1874, founded "The Fryer Trust" - for the distribution of coals, cash or clothing in the village at Christmas. Inflation, alas, has now made this Trust of little value. It is administered by the Parish Council. This same daughter, Mrs. Russell, when in Lulworth, lived with her crippled child at "Old Sea View" (now the Mill House). When the child died aged 14, the Rev. W. P. Schuster wrote of her as "One who in her short life, set a bright example of faith and hope and patience amid much bodily suffering".
The two north windows in the Nave are in memory of Maria Theresa Schuster, wife of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, whose memorial plaque is in the Chancel; and of Christopher John Claud Schuster, who was sadly killed in action only three months before the end of the First World War. Aged 19, he was the only son of Sir Claud Schuster, afterwards Baron of Ceme, who lived at Gatton Cottage (now Gatton House) and with his wife is buried in the Churchyard. Sir Claud was a nephew of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, and often read the lessons in the Church. The stained glass is beautiful and portrays St. George slaying the dragon, on the left side, and St. Christopher on the right.
Memorial Plaques
Chancel
John Wordsworth, Bishop of Salisbury, son of Bishop Christopher Wordsworth 'Man of Letters'. He officiated at services whenever he was staying at his seaside home, 'Bishop's Cottage', and was a great friend to everyone in the village. His daughter. Rose Salome, was christened in August, 1900 and his granddaughter, Rosa Jane Pelly, in April, 1931, in the Church. His wife is buried in the Churchyard. The plaque is composed of alabaster and opus sectile, bearing the Diocesan and Wordsworth Arms, executed by Messrs. Powell, Whitefriars, London.
William Percy Schuster, Vicar for 27 years until his death. He and his wife, mother, brothers and sister were devoted to the Church, and their generosity is recorded in many of the old Parish Magazines. He and his wife and his sister, Fanny Emily, are buried in the Churchyard. In 1925 the endowment was increased by £1,000 in his memory, by his wife, Maria Theresa. The plaque is surrounded by alabaster, carved with acoms and oak leaves.
Walter Henry Chaffey. He was a faithful verger and churchwarden for 25 years and a member of the choir for 71 years. Quiet, modest and efficient, keenly interested in ecclesiastical law and anything to do with the Church, he never failed in his duty to it. He came from a long line of Lulworth Chaffeys and many of his family still live in East and West Lulworth. He is buried in the Churchyard.
Nave
The Rev. Benjamin Bodycombe (small crucifix above the pulpit). A widower, he married his second wife in the Church. He suffered much ill-health and died after five years as Vicar, and he and his wife are buried in the Churchyard. He took a great interest in the music, and in young people.
Mary Frances Urquhart. Her husband Major Charles James Urquhart built "Oswalds" (now Bincleaves) and after he died she lived at Spring Cottage.
Florence Rose Mary Robson was daughter of the above and wife of Colonel Henry Denne Robson. They also lived at Oswalds. "She was the life and soul of the village," says one who knew her.
Katherine Williams, wife of Regtl, Quartermaster Sergt. William Henry Williams, son of Robert Williams, one of the fishermen of West Lulworth. Her son by her first marriage was:
John Beare, Lance-Corporal, R.E., who died, aged 25, as a prisoner-of-war in Japan in the Second World War.
North Aisle
William Tucker of St. Andrews, another faithful churchwarden for many years in the time of the Rev. W. P. Schuster. He was a popular local farmer, and is buried in the Churchyard.
Jack Stewart Newcombe, Pilot Officer, R.A.F., aged 21, and his brother Gordon Clifford Newcombe, Lieut., R.N., H.M.S. Glorious, aged 25. Both killed flying. Their mother and step-father, Major and Mrs. Campbell, lived at 8 Coastguard Cottages. They were "Two fine young men".
Lychgate
Captain Frederick Godfrey Schreiber, R. N. (Retd.), built the Lychgate in memory of his wife, Agnes Winifred, who died in 1949. It was dedicated by the Bishop of Salisbury in 1953 and is built of oak with a tiled roof. His own name is now inscribed there too. He died in 1966 after living at Stair House for 33 years. Capt Schreiber was a very generous benefactor, he donated £500 to the rebuilding of the Tower, with which work he was much involved. He gave £1,000 4% Consols to form "The Schreiber Trust" in 1954, which is primarily for the general upkeep of the Churchyard, particularly the Lychgate and the Schreiber grave and monument. The brass altar cross was another gift in memory of his wife.
Churchyard
There are many interesting people buried in the Churchyard, villagers both well-known and lesser-known, who all played their part in shaping the life of West Lulworth.
The ancient south door, above which is a restored wooden angel from a roof beam, showing what they would have looked like prior to the damage done by the falling steeple in 1577 .
I berated myself all the way from the banks of the Medway up the A249 to Sittingbourne, telling myself it would be a wasted trip as clearly the church wouldn't be open. I had, in fairness, just struck out three churches in a row that were closed.
I arrived at the church, found a place to park.
There were no ride and stride signs, nothing to indicate it was open.
More dark mutterings to myself.
As I walked to the churchyard, families were coming out of the park next door, workers were clearing ivy from the wall surrounding the churchyard.
The porch gate had a lock on it, as before, but closer inspection showed it to not actually locking the gate. I tried it and the gate opened.
The next door was also unlocked, so I went through, and was in a void before the inner door.
I pushed and it did not yield.
I opened the middle door to let some light in, found the latch, pushed down and the door swung open to reveal a huge space.
To the west was the interior of the huge tower, big enough to fit some churches in. No ropes now hang down to ring bells.
I could find no light switches, so had to make do with natural light, meaning some details might have been missed.
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The massive 14th century tower grabs attention immediately, but just by the door is a most mysterious headstone which commemorates a man killed by a rocket at an early Guy Fawke`s celebration. Inside, the south aisle is almost as wide as the nave and has a rare rood loft staircase that runs in the thickness of the wall rather than up a spiral staircase. There is little stained glass but the east window, by the firm of Ward and Hughes is rather a masterpiece, with most of the subjects being real portraits – especially the figures of St George and St Uriel. An inscription nearby tells the whole story. At the junction of nave and chancel is a rare benefactions board which is carved to look like a memorial – look out for Faith Hope and Charity. The medieval vestry at the north east corner has an original shuttered window – a rare survival indeed, whilst under the huge tower is a benefactions board recording gifts to dredgermen`s widows. Now you don’t find them very often!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Milton+Regis
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MILTON,
OR, more properly, Middleton, lies the next parish north-westward from Sittingborne, last described, and seems to have taken its name from the Saxon Midletun, a name denoting its situation in the middle part of this county.
THE PARISH of Milton is most of it situated on low flat ground, and extends from the high London road as far as the waters of the Swale northward, adjoining to which, the marshes in this parish are both fresh and salt, of a very large extent. In the southern or upper part of the parish, next to the London road, is a small hamlet, called from the soil Chalkwell, in which there are two modern-built houses of the better sort, the lower most of which has a large tan-yard belonging to it; near it there rise some springs, which fill several large ponds, the reservoirs for a corn mill below them, after which they run along the east skirts of the town, which are a continued swamp of watry bogs, into the creek below. The town, antiently called the king's town of Milton, as being part of the antient possessions of the crown, is situated about half a mile from the high London road, at the eastern boundary of the parish, the greatest part of it on the knole of a hill, extending mostly down the east side of it to the head of the creek, which flows north-westward from hence, and at two miles distance, after several meandrings, joins the waters of the Swale. It has a very indifferent character for health, owing both to the badness of the water, and the gross unwholesome air to which it is subject from its watry situation; nor is it in any degree pleasant, the narrow streets, or rather lanes in it, being badly paved, and for the most part inhabited by seafaring persons, fishermen, and oyster-dredgers.
Its commodious situation for navigation near the Swale, to which the town then stood much nearer than it does at present, caused it to be frequented by the Danes, in their piratical excursions into this county, particularly in 893, these pirates, who had been ravaging. France and the Low Countries, being distressed for subsistence, turned their thoughts towards England, for the sake of plunder: for this purpose, with one of their fleets, they sailed up to Apledore, and with the other, consisting of about eighty ships, under the command of Hastings their captain, they entered the mouth of the river Thames, and landing in this parish built themselves a fortress or castle here. Asserius writes, anno 892, Hastengus fecit sibi firmissimum oppidum apud Middeltunam. Sax. Chron. anno 893, interpreted, Arcem extruxit. Simon Dunelm, coll. 151, H. Huntingdon, lib. 5, Florence of Worcester, p. 595, and Chron. Malros, Fecit munitionem. Spelman, in his Life of Alfred, says, Dani castra validis operibus communiunt. This fortress was erected at a place called Kemsleydowne, in the marshes, about midway between the town and the mouth of the creek, the scite of which is still visible, and being overgrown with wood and bushes, has obtained the name of Castberough. (fn. 1) It is of a square form, and is surrounded by a high bank thrown up, and a broad ditch. There is a raised causeway, very plainly to be seen, leading from it towards the seashore. From this fortress they not only made their excursions and plundered the neighbouring country, but secured themselves against such power as the king might send against them.
This town of Milton being part of the royal demesnes, was a cause of its being destroyed by earl Godwin, who being at variance with Edward the Consessor, came here, with a large force, in the year 1052, and burned this town, then of good condition, to the ground; and afterwards ransacked and spoiled many other of the king's estates throughout the county. After which it does not seem to have been ever restored to its former state.
Its condition in the reign of queen Elizabeth may be seen by the survey, made by her order in the 8th year of her reign; by which it appears, that there were then in this town, houses inhabited one hundred and thirty, persons lacking habitations six, landing-places four, one called Fluddmill keye, appertaining to Sir Henry Cheney; the second, Whitlock's key, now the Town key; the third, Reynolds's, now Page's key; and the fourth, Hamond key, appertaining to Thomas Hayward, now Huggins's key; ships and vessels twenty-six, of which twenty were under ten tons; the rest were of twelve, sixteen, and twenty tons; and persons occupied in trade and fishing twenty four.
Since which the town of Milton has considerably increased, as well in the number of its houses and inhabitants, as in its wealth and trade. The number of houses at present is about two hundred and thirty, which are supposed to contain about twelve hundred inhabitants.
The trade of it chiefly consists in the traffic carrying on weekly at the four wharfs in it, where the corn and commodities of the neighbouring country are shipped for London, and goods of every sort brought back again in return; and in the fishery for oysters, a further account of which will be given hereafter. Besides which, the several mills here do not contribute a little to the benefit of this place; four of these are employed in the grinding of corn, and dressing it into flour; and the fifth, called Perrywinckle mill, was some few years ago applied to the manufacturing of pearl-barley, which used to be imported from Holland; and it was supposed to be the only mill in the kingdom where that article was brought to the same perfection as in Holland, but this manufacture for want of due encouragement has been since discontinued.
The town of Milton is governed by a a portreve, who is chosen annually on St. James's day, by the inhabitants of the parish paying church and poor's rates; whose office is, to oversee the market, and preserve good order within the town, and to execute the office of clerk of the market in all matters, within the hundreds of Milton and Marden; he likewise sets the price of all things which come to the keys, or any other creek within the hundred, being such things as head officers in other towns may set the prices on
The market, which is a very plentiful one for all sorts of butchers meat, poultry, &c. is held on a Saturday weekly, at the shambles, in the center of the town. Adjoining to them is the market-house, having a clock, and a bell, which is rung not only for the purpose of the market, but for the calling of the parshioners to church, for funerals, and for occasional parish meetings. At a small distance northward from the shambles is a king of court-house, being a very low old-timbered tenement, where the courts of the manor are kept, and other meetings held; at other times it is made use of as the school house; underneath it is the town prison.
The school is endowed with the annual sum of nine pounds, an account of which may be seen hereafter, among the charitable benefactions to this parish. The master is appointed by the minister and churchwardens. Nine or ten poor boys are taught to read and write in it.
There is a fair, which used to be held on the feast of St. Margaret, July 13, now, by the alteration of the stile, on the 24th of that month, and the two following days.
The lands in this parish, near the town, and especially on the lower or northern part of it, are very rich and sertile. Adjoining to these are the marshes, which extend to the waters of the Swale. Below the hill westward there is another streamlet, which having turned a mill near the vicarage, runs on not far distant from the church, and court-lodge, situated about half a mile northward below the present town, near which the former one destroyed by Earl Godwin is supposed to have once stood.
In the north-west part of this parish, among the marshes, there is a decoy for wild fowl, the only one, that I know of, in this part of the county. The fowl caught in it, are much esteemed for their size and flavor. Great numbers of them are weekly taken and sent up to London.
In this parish, at a small distance northward from Bobbing-place, is a farm called the Quintin farm, which shews that diversion to have been formerly used in it. (fn. 2)
THE FISHERY belonging to the manor and hundred of Milton is of very considerable account. It seems to have been granted by king John, by his charter, in his 7th year, to the abbot and convent of Faversham, by the description of the fisheries of Milton, which the men of Seasalter then held by the yearly rent of twenty shillings, payable at his manor of Milton, and by doing therefrom the customs and service which were wont to be to it.
King Edward III. in his 4th year, confirmed this grant, as did king Henry VI. and this fishery remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was surrendered up into the king's hands, together with all its possessions.
After which, the fee simple of this fishery remained with the manor in the hands of the crown, till the 10th year of king Charles I. when it was passed away, with it, by the words recited in the grant then made of the manor, to Sir Ed. Browne and Christ. Favell, as will be more fully mentioned below; after which, James Herbert, esq. coming into the possession of it, by the settlement of it from his father Philip, earl of Pembroke, he in the 26th year of king Charles II. obtained a fresh grant of this fishery, against which there was a quo warranto brought in the reign of queen Anne, on a petition of the fishermen of Rochester and Stroud, to shew by what authority they, the grantees, kept courts within their manor of Milton, and restrained the fishermen of those and the adjacent towns, from fishing and dredging for oysters within this hundred and manor: but on a trial had at bar, a verdict was given in his favor. Since which it has continued down, in like manner as the manor of Milton, to the right hon. Philip, viscount Wenman, and Mrs. Anne Herbert, who are at this time proprietors of this fishery, together with the manor.
The company of Fishermen, or Dredgers, of this fishery, hold it by lease from the owners of the manor, at the yearly rent of one hundred pounds and four bushels of oysters. They are governed by their particular officers, under certain rules or bye-laws, made by antient custom at the court baron of the manor. There are now about one hundred and forty freemen belonging to it.
The oysters produced from these grounds, within the limits of this fishery, are usually called Milton Natives, and are esteemed the finest and richest flavored of any in Europe. They are supposed to be the same that Juvenal particularly describes, in his fourth satire, as being reckoned a delicacy even in his time, in these words, satire iv. l. 144:
— Rutupinove edita fundo Ostrea, callebat primo deprendere morsu.
The sum usually returned for these oysters is from 3000l. to 7000l. per annum. The Dutch have been supposed by many, to have engrossed this article of luxury; but they expend but a very small part of the above sums, and sometimes none, for the space of seven years together.
IN THE WESTERN PART of this parish there are several hundred acres of coppice-wood, which are adjoining to a much larger tract of the like sort, extending southward almost as far as Binbury pound, on the west side of Stockbury-valley, for the space of near five miles. These woods, especially those in and near this parish, are noted for the great plenty of chesnut stubs interspersed promiscuously throughout them, which, from the quick and strait growth of this king of wood, makes them very valuable. These are so numerous in them, as to give name to most of these woods near Milton, which, besides their particular names to each of them, are usually called by the general name of Chesnut-woods. And in the presentment made of the customs of the manor of Milton in 1575, it is mentioned, that the occupiers of the three mills holden of the manor should gather yearly for the lord of it nine bushels of chestenottes, in Chestnott wood, or pay eighteen-pence by the year to the queen, who then had the manor in her own hands, and was possessed of three hundred acres of chesnut wood within this hundred.
¶These chesnuts are undoubtedly the indigenuous growth of Britain, planted by the hand of nature. They are interspersed throughout the whole tract, without any form or regularity, and are many of them, by their appearance, of great age; and by numbers of them, which now seem almost worn out and perishing, being made use of as the termini or boundaries, as well of private property as of parishes, it is plain they were first pitched upon, in preference to others, for that purpose, as being the largest and most antient ones of any then existing; and as these are hardly ever cut down or altered, they must have stood sacred to this use from the first introduction of private property into this kingdom, and the first division of it into parishes. Four letters were printed in 1771, after having been read before the Royal Society, two of which were written by Dr. Ducarel, and the other two by Mr. Thorpe and Mr. Hasted, to prove that chesnut-trees were the indigenous growth of this kingdom, in answer to an idea of the hon. Daines Barrington, who had a wish to establish a contrary opinion.
DR. PLOT says, that Herba Britannica, which Twyne and Johnson think to be bistort, Trisolium acetosum, or Oxys; Empetron, quæ est petrafindula Britanniæ prope peculiaris, and Crocus, were found at Milton by Scribonius Largus, when he came into Britain with the emperor Claudius. And he further says, that Crocus sativus, saffron, was heretofore sown and gathered (as now at Walden, in Essex) at Milton, and quotes for his authority, a manuscript rental of the manor of Milton, in the library of Christ-church, Canterbury.
MILTON is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Sittingborne.
The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It is a large handsome building, consisting of two isles and two chancels, the southernmost of which belongs to the manor of Northwood. It has a well built tower at the west end, in which are five bells. In this church, among others, were formerly the arms of Barry, Diggs, Finch, of the Five Ports, of Norwood and Norton, with their several crests, trophies, and banners; of Marten quartering Boteler; one coat, Barry, argent and azure, on a canton of the first, a bird of the second; Argent, three bends azure, within a bordure, eight mullets; Gules, a fess or, between three mullets, argent; and in one of the windows, a man kneeling, with a coat of arms, Six lions rampant, three and three, and underneath, Orate paia Guliel Savage Armigi.
Mauricius ap John, rector of St. George's, in Exeter, was buried in the choir of this church, as appears by his will, anno 1499.
In the year 1070, being the 5th year of his reign, William the Conqueror gave to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, the church of Middelton, and the tenths of all the products accruing from that manor, and the tenths of all its appurtenances, of the land, wood, meadows, and water, excepting the tenths of honey, and rent paid in money. (fn. 12)
Pope Lucius XI. in 1144, at the petition of abbot Hugh de Trottesclive, confirmed the annual pension of ten marcs from this church to that abbey.
In 1168, the conventual church of St. Augustine was the greatest part of it burnt; on which account this church was allotted to the sacristy there, for the repair of it. (fn. 13) But they did not keep it long, for in 1178, at the king's instance, they gave it up, and lost all property both in the church, and the advowson of it. A composition was entered into between the archbishop and the abbot in 1182, concerning the privileges and exemptions of the latter; when it was agreed, that the archdeacon, or his official, should receive his accustomed dues and procurations from the churches of St. Augustine, excepting those of Minster, Northborne, and Chistelet, and from this church likewise, when the monks should again get possession of the appropriation of it.
Four years after which, the abbot demised to the prioress of St. Sexburg of Shepey, the tiches which his monastery possessed, in right of this church, in Bobbing, at the yearly rent of ten shillings, on condition that all housekeepers, which should be on the estates from which they arose, should yearly repair to this the mother church, with their oblations, on Christmas-day, the Purification, and Easter day. And in 1188, the abbot demised to the prioress there, the tenths of Westlonde, within her parish, for the rent of fourteen shillings, payable yearly to the sacrist of St. Augustine.
About the year 1198, the abbot and convent recovered this church, which was then become vacant by the death of one Franco, the person to whom they had given it up, at the instance of king Henry. But they had kept it but a small time, before the archbishop disturbed them in their possession of it. However, by the mediation of mutual friends, and at the king's request, that he would not molest them in their appropriation of it; he out of respect to the king, ratified this church to them, to be possessed by them for ever. (fn. 14)
There was a pension of forty shillings payably yearly from this church, with the chapel belonging to it, to the above monastery, which, with the other pensions from their several churches, was given up by agreement in 1242, for a compensation out of the profits of the church of Preston.
The abbot and convent, among the extensive privileges from the papal see, had obtained an exemption from all archiepiscopal authority, and about the year 1295 made an institution of several new deanries, and apportioned the several churches belonging to his monastery, to each of them, according to their vicinity; one of these was the deanry of Lenham, in which this church was included. This raised great contests with the several archbishops, and after more than five years altercation, the abbot was stripped of these exemptions, and was declared, by the pope's bull, to be subject to the archbishop's jurisdiction, in like manner as before; which entirely dissolved these new deanries, and that of Lenham among them. (fn. 15)
Notwithstanding the abbot and convent seem to have held the appropriation of this church almost from held the appropriation of this church almost from the first grant of it, and though there had been vicars instituted to it long before this time, for Robert de Wikes, who stiles himself vicar of Middelton, by his deed in 1247, granted seven deywerks of land, with the houses built on it, for the habitation of the vicar of Middelton, for the time being; and the abbot and convent had in 1286, assigned a portion for the maintenance of the vicar here; yet there does not appear to have been any regular endowment of a vicarage to it, till the reign of king Edward III. when archbishop Stratford, in 1345, anno 20 Edward III. by his instrument, decreed, that the vicar of the church of Middelton, and his successors, should have the usual mansion of the vicarage, with the garden adjoining to it, together with one acre of the glebe of the same; and that he should have, in the name of the vicarage, all manner of oblations in the church of Middelton, and in all places, situated within the bounds and limits or titheable places of it; and that they should have in the name of the vicarage, all tithes of sylva cædua, wool, lambs, calves, pigs, ducks, geese, swans, pidgeons, cheese, milk-meats, herbage, apples, pears, and other fruit, growing in gardens and orchards, pulse, flax, hemp, eggs, rushes, merchandizes, and of all mills built, or which might in future be built, within the bounds and limits or titheable places of the church, and all other small tithes whatsoever belonging to it, and all legacies left in future to it, which the rectors or vicars of it might of right or custom take; also, that the vicars, in right of the vicarage, should have of the religious, the annual pension of 4s. (fn. 16) sterling, one seam or quarter of corn, and three quarters or seams of barley, on the feast of St. Michael, at Middelton, by them to be yearly paid, on pain of the sequestration of the fruits and profits of the church, belonging to the religious, to be laid on as often and whenever they should cease in the payment of the pension or barley, or should not pay either of them in the time above-mentioned.
But that the vicars should undergo the burthen of serving by themselves, or some other fit priest, the church in divine services, in the finding of one lamp, to burn before the altar of St. Mary there, and the ministering of bread, wine, lights, and other things, which should be necessary for the celebration of divine rights in the church. The burthen likewise of the payment of tenths and other impositions, whenever they might be imposed on the English church, or incumbent on the church, for the taxation of twelve marcs, beyond the burthens allotted to the religious underneath, they should undergo at their own costs and expences.
But the burthen of the reparation and rebuilding of the chancel of the church, both within and without, and also the finding and repairing of books and vestments, and ornaments of the church, which were wont or ought of right or custom, to be found and repaired by the rectors of churches, and all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, incumbent on the church, the religious should undergo and acknowledge for ever, &c. (fn. 17)
The church and vicarage, after this, remained part of the possessions of the monastery, till the final dissolution of it, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was, with all its revenues, surrendered up into the king's hands, who by his dotation-charter, in his 33d year, settled both the appropriation of this church, and the advowson of the vicarage, among other premises, on his new-founded dean and chapter of Christchurch, Canterbury, with whom the inheritance of the parsonage still remains, the interest in the lease of it being now in the heirs of John Cockin Sole, esq. deceased, but the advowson of the vicarage the dean and chapter retain in their own hands, and are the present patrons of it.
The vicarage of Milton is valued in the king's books at 13l. 2s. 6d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 6s. 3d.
¶In 1578, there were here, dwelling-houses on hundred and eight, communicants three hundred and seventy-four. In 1640 this vicarage was valued at eighty pounds. Communicants five hundred and twenty-nine.
The antient annual pension of four shillings, one quarter of wheat, and three quarters of barley, stipulated to be paid by the religious as before-mentioned, still continues to be paid by the lessee of the parsonage, by the covenants of his lease.
The agreement made between the prior of the brethren of the hospital of St. John of Jersalem and the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, about king Henry the IId.'s reign, that whenever their chapel of Rodmersham should be dedicated, and the cemetery consecrated, they would diminish by it none of the mother church of Middleton's rights; has already been more fully mentioned in the account of that parish before. (fn. 18)
The old Norman Church, which stood on the north side of the main street, near the village stores, described as "very ancient, the smallest I ever saw" in 1791 by John O'Keefe, had originally one aisle, a low square tower, under which was the gallery, reached from the churchyard by an outside flight of stone steps and a small porch on the south side. In 1842 an extension was made, bringing the outside wall level with the porch and thus giving the Church a curiously lop-sided appearance.
In the gallery sat the choir with its flutes, violins, 'cello and double bass. Much of the music was written by local musicians, and many in the village remember hearing of the parts played by their grandparents.
By 1869 the old Church had become dilapidated and inadequate for the needs of the inhabitants of West Lulworth. It was very close to cottages on either side, and the Rev. William Gildea, curate of Winfrith and later a Canon (non resident) of Salisbury Cathedral, whose living it was, of an annual value of about £130, arranged for the building of the new Church and Vicarage on a far more convenient site.
The new Church of the Holy Trinity was built from the designs of Mr. John Hicks of Dorchester, but owing to his death, was carried out by Mr. R. G. Crickmay of Weymouth, the pulpit, font, prayer desk and other internal fittings being from his designs. Messrs. Wellspring & Son, of Dorchester, were the builders. The Dorset County Chronicle of Thursday, 12th May, 1870 states: "The style is Early Geometrical Gothic, and it is built of Purbeck stone, the carved, moulded and highly finished portions of the stonework generally are of Bath freestone. The material of the old Parish Church was used as much as possible. The letters on the moulding over the east window of the transept (behind the organ) stood over a sixteenth-century window in the north wall of the old Church, and read 'Robertus Lulleworth'" presumably the name of an ancient Lord of the Manor, after whom the village is named. "The rear arch springs from demi-angels bearing shields. In the chancel is an oak bench with carved framing and panels of the seventeenth century, which has been restored." (A photograph of a sketch of the old Church is in the vestry.)
The foundation stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, wife of Nathaniel Bond. Esq., of Holme Priory, the fifth daughter of the Second Earl of Eldon. "The stone itself was found buried a foot or two underground in the old churchyard. It now supports four arches, and underneath it was placed a glass bottle containing a newspaper and one or two coins of the year". The brass plate can be seen behind the base of the lectern, and the inscription reads "This stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, June 1st 1869, William Gildea, Vicar, William Randall, Thomas Randall, Jun.. Churchwardens".
The Church was consecrated by the Bishop of Salisbury, Dr. George Moberley, on 11th May, 1870, "In a fierce gale of wind accompanied by heavy rain", in the presence of twenty-five other clergy, the churchwardens and many parishioners and friends.
In his memorandum of November, 1879, the Rev. W. Gildea states: "The Communion Table is made of oak cut out of the beams of the old Church roof, which were much decayed except in the centre".
"Some of the wood in the reredos was wreck picked up at sea and still has trace of the paint of the vessel to which it belonged. The three panels of the reredos were painted by Miss Hicks, daughter of the architect."
The carved panels on either side of the oak reredos, come from Oberammergau. They are carved in deep relief in lime wood, and are the work of Hans Mayer, the son of Josef Mayer, who on three occasions, in the years 1870, 1880 and 1890, acted "Christus" in the Passion Play.
It was after a lecture on the Passion Play given in Lulworth in 1894, by Mr. Arthur Evans, that the villagers heard of the beautiful wood carving at Oberammergau and decided to start a fund to purchase some for the Church. The panels represent the Birth and Baptism of Jesus, the Crucifixion and the Supper at Emmaus. They were placed there in 1895.
The lectern stem and base contain woods from Europe, Asia, Africa and America. The eagle standing on its globe was executed by Messrs. Case, Strand, London.
The Rev. William Gildea was a keen amateur woodworker. Helped by Mr. Basil Sprague, who turned the wood pillars, capitals and bases, and by Mr. John Chaffey, he executed the altar, reredos woodwork, altar rails and the stem of the lectern.
The beautiful carving of the columns and corbels was done by Mr. Benjamin Grassby of Dorchester and was the gift of Mrs. Gildea. The capitals are of French Early Gothic foliage variety.
The illuminated texts over the arches of the Nave were painted by Mr. Thomas Randall of Hamboro’ Farm, who died a few weeks before completion of the work. Members of the Randall family were churchwardens for over 100 years. Mr. Matthew Randall had been chiefly instrumental in adding an aisle to the old Church, and took a great interest in the building of the new one. Mr. William Randall acted as churchwarden throughout the seventeen years of the Rev. W. Gildea's incumbency.
For several years before his death in 1981, Mr. P. J. Franklin , F.C.LO.B., gave generously of his time and expert knowledge; arranged for the complete redecoration of the church; and for the illuminated texts to be repainted by Mr. F. E. J. Chinchen of Lulworth Camp.
The first couple to be married in the new church, on 16th February, 1871, were James George Dorey, aged 23, and Maria Eliza Saunders, aged 24, grandparents of Mr. Walter Dorey, who is the last of the West Lulworth Doreys, a family whose names appear in the earliest registers from 1745. Unfortunately the older registers dating back to the sixteenth century were destroyed by fire.
The earliest mention of a curate is Sir Peter Rosse, 1553. Later names are: S. Haines, 1753; Benjamin Thomton, 1777; John Bale, 1789; Robert Goodrich, 1803; Franklin Tonkin, 1845; J. G. Fisher, 1847; Edward Dix Wood, 1850; Cornell P. West, 1852; Joseph Maskell, 1855; John Wynne, 1857; W. A. Bayley, 1861.
The continued list of Vicars is behind the Font.
The first, the Rev. William Gildea, was obviously a man of great character and many talents. His wife, five sons. and four daughters, together with his large staff at the Vicarage, centred village life around the Church. There is no doubt that he largely financed the building himself, with the aid of loans from Lord Eldon, the Rev. Eldon Bankes, and Nathaniel Bond, Esq.
The Rev. W. Percy Schuster and his family also had an outstanding influence, and provided the Church with most of its stained-glass windows and many essential adornments.
The Parish Church is now included in the list of buildings of special architectural or historic interest.
Tower
The battlemented tower was completed after the Church was consecrated. It was enlarged in 1888 at a cost of £600; two original bells were cast into one and four added in 1892 and a sixth in 1903. The bellringers were very active and the bells rang out to welcome important visitors, mark notable events, etc. In 1911, 1,260 changes were rung in 43 minutes! The weight of the bells varied from 11 cwts. to 4 cwts. They unfortunately proved too heavy for the Belfry, which was demolished and rebuilt in 1952-53, this time at a cost of £6,000. (See photographs in vestry.) The bells were all sold except the:
Tenor - "Through all the changing scenes of life"
III - "Where sweetly chimes this bell
O' er sea and hill and dell
May Jesus Christ be praised"
both dated 1892.
Without the enthusiasm of Lady Fripp, and much help from Captain Schreiber (see later), the tower might never have been rebuilt. Lady Fripp organized a large fête and raised money in many other ways. She also made many gifts to the Church. Sir Alfred and Lady Fripp came to the Mill House in 1911; later Weston was built for them (designed by Lutyens). His father and uncle, Alfred and George Fripp were both well-known artists and painted beautiful water-colours of the old cottages, the Mill pond, the Cove and the rocks of the spring, before the waterworks took away its charm. Sir Alfred, (surgeon to King Edward VII), and Lady Fripp were most popular in the village, and gladly attended to the health of any local sick children. They are both buried in the Churchyard. The close connection of the family with West Lulworth, happily still continues. The Jubilee Clock, made by Messrs. Potts & Co., of Leeds, at an estimated cost of £130, was added in 1897. The clock chimes were reset by Colonel Robert Hamblin, in memory of his wife, Mary, in 1972. He left a legacy of £1,000 to the Church, to which they were both very devoted and generous.
Stained-Glass Windows
The east window was given by Messrs. R. and J. A. Williams of Bridehead, near Dorchester. The west window was given anonymously in 1898, the stained glass is by Kempe and is exceptionally good - a close composition in sombre colours.
The north and south windows in the Sanctuary are in memory of the Rev. W. P. Schuster’s brother, Herbert L. Schuster, Esq. The window in the Chancel is in memory of his sister, Miss Fanny Emily Schuster, and another brother, the Rev. Edmond Vemon Schuster, Rector of Haughton Dale, Lancashire.
The south window and brass plate near the pulpit recall the Rev. John Henry Lonsdale. He was a keen fisherman, a friend of Alfred Fripp since their student days, and frequently officiated in the Church. He loved Lulworth and the little sailing ships which unloaded coal for the Castle and village at the old store in the Cove. Sometimes their anchors cut adrift and caused serious damage to the fishermen's nets, which at that time were hauled in from the mouth of the Cove to under Bindon Hill by eight men. This delightful window, and also payments for divers from Weymouth to remove anchors and other offending obstacles, were given by relatives and friends of this much-loved Dorset parson.
The other south window in the Nave, by A. C. Moore, is in memory of Isaac Fryer, Esq., who in gratitude for the recovery of health of his daughter in 1874, founded "The Fryer Trust" - for the distribution of coals, cash or clothing in the village at Christmas. Inflation, alas, has now made this Trust of little value. It is administered by the Parish Council. This same daughter, Mrs. Russell, when in Lulworth, lived with her crippled child at "Old Sea View" (now the Mill House). When the child died aged 14, the Rev. W. P. Schuster wrote of her as "One who in her short life, set a bright example of faith and hope and patience amid much bodily suffering".
The two north windows in the Nave are in memory of Maria Theresa Schuster, wife of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, whose memorial plaque is in the Chancel; and of Christopher John Claud Schuster, who was sadly killed in action only three months before the end of the First World War. Aged 19, he was the only son of Sir Claud Schuster, afterwards Baron of Ceme, who lived at Gatton Cottage (now Gatton House) and with his wife is buried in the Churchyard. Sir Claud was a nephew of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, and often read the lessons in the Church. The stained glass is beautiful and portrays St. George slaying the dragon, on the left side, and St. Christopher on the right.
Memorial Plaques
Chancel
John Wordsworth, Bishop of Salisbury, son of Bishop Christopher Wordsworth 'Man of Letters'. He officiated at services whenever he was staying at his seaside home, 'Bishop's Cottage', and was a great friend to everyone in the village. His daughter. Rose Salome, was christened in August, 1900 and his granddaughter, Rosa Jane Pelly, in April, 1931, in the Church. His wife is buried in the Churchyard. The plaque is composed of alabaster and opus sectile, bearing the Diocesan and Wordsworth Arms, executed by Messrs. Powell, Whitefriars, London.
William Percy Schuster, Vicar for 27 years until his death. He and his wife, mother, brothers and sister were devoted to the Church, and their generosity is recorded in many of the old Parish Magazines. He and his wife and his sister, Fanny Emily, are buried in the Churchyard. In 1925 the endowment was increased by £1,000 in his memory, by his wife, Maria Theresa. The plaque is surrounded by alabaster, carved with acoms and oak leaves.
Walter Henry Chaffey. He was a faithful verger and churchwarden for 25 years and a member of the choir for 71 years. Quiet, modest and efficient, keenly interested in ecclesiastical law and anything to do with the Church, he never failed in his duty to it. He came from a long line of Lulworth Chaffeys and many of his family still live in East and West Lulworth. He is buried in the Churchyard.
Nave
The Rev. Benjamin Bodycombe (small crucifix above the pulpit). A widower, he married his second wife in the Church. He suffered much ill-health and died after five years as Vicar, and he and his wife are buried in the Churchyard. He took a great interest in the music, and in young people.
Mary Frances Urquhart. Her husband Major Charles James Urquhart built "Oswalds" (now Bincleaves) and after he died she lived at Spring Cottage.
Florence Rose Mary Robson was daughter of the above and wife of Colonel Henry Denne Robson. They also lived at Oswalds. "She was the life and soul of the village," says one who knew her.
Katherine Williams, wife of Regtl, Quartermaster Sergt. William Henry Williams, son of Robert Williams, one of the fishermen of West Lulworth. Her son by her first marriage was:
John Beare, Lance-Corporal, R.E., who died, aged 25, as a prisoner-of-war in Japan in the Second World War.
North Aisle
William Tucker of St. Andrews, another faithful churchwarden for many years in the time of the Rev. W. P. Schuster. He was a popular local farmer, and is buried in the Churchyard.
Jack Stewart Newcombe, Pilot Officer, R.A.F., aged 21, and his brother Gordon Clifford Newcombe, Lieut., R.N., H.M.S. Glorious, aged 25. Both killed flying. Their mother and step-father, Major and Mrs. Campbell, lived at 8 Coastguard Cottages. They were "Two fine young men".
Lychgate
Captain Frederick Godfrey Schreiber, R. N. (Retd.), built the Lychgate in memory of his wife, Agnes Winifred, who died in 1949. It was dedicated by the Bishop of Salisbury in 1953 and is built of oak with a tiled roof. His own name is now inscribed there too. He died in 1966 after living at Stair House for 33 years. Capt Schreiber was a very generous benefactor, he donated £500 to the rebuilding of the Tower, with which work he was much involved. He gave £1,000 4% Consols to form "The Schreiber Trust" in 1954, which is primarily for the general upkeep of the Churchyard, particularly the Lychgate and the Schreiber grave and monument. The brass altar cross was another gift in memory of his wife.
Churchyard
There are many interesting people buried in the Churchyard, villagers both well-known and lesser-known, who all played their part in shaping the life of West Lulworth.
Holy Trinity church is built in the Early English style of the late-13th century. The body of the church consists of a four-bay, clerestoried nave with lean-to aisles abutting it. The aisles have a series of three-light Geometrical windows. At the W end below the five-light W window is a gabled porch. The clerestory windows are quatrefoils punched through the wall of the nave. At the NW corner stands the steeple the tower of which is of two stages culminating in an openwork parapet. The lower stage has a N doorway set underneath a gable. The second stage, of similar height to the stage below, has tall two-light belfry windows. The tower is crowned by a recessed spire with ribs at the angles and a tier of tall spire lights. The chancel is lower than the nave and has a four-light E Geometrical window with a series of trefoils and quatrefoils in the tracery.
The interior is plastered, whitened and is quite plain with little decoration. The arcades have moulded arches and octagonal piers and moulded capitals. Between the nave and chancel is a moulded arch springing from colonettes which in turn stand on corbels: the capitals of these shafts have elaborate stiff-leaf foliage capitals. The nave and chancel roofs are also supported on colonettes with stiff-leaf foliage.
Many of the Victorian furnishings remain in place. The nave seats have the conventional square-headed ends to which are attached umbrella holders. The organ is a large, imposing instrument on the N side of the chancel with three semi-circular towers of pipes and traceried screening at the top. There is a good series of cast-iron radiators by Wright Bros of Sheffield, one with flowered panels. There is quite extensive stained glass: the E window, representing the Resurrection, is of 1913 and this and three chancel S windows of 1917 and 1921 are by H W Bryans. The S aisle E window is of 1875 and is by Hardman while another in the S aisle is by Hardman and Co. A further S aisle window is by Heaton, Butler and Bayne.
Holy Trinity church was built in 1870-1 by subscription but much of the money came from the Rev. Y G Lloyd-Graeme of Sewerby House who also presented the church with a peal of three bells. The total cost was £7,000 and the church could accommodate 900 people (all the sittings were free). It became the centre of a separate parish in 1874. The architects are not well known: Frederick Stead Brodrick (1847-1927) was the nephew of the famous architect, Cuthbert Brodrick, the designer of Leeds Town Hall. He went into partnership with the surveyor to Hull Council, R G Smith (fl 1870-82) who became FRIBA in 1871.
The old Norman Church, which stood on the north side of the main street, near the village stores, described as "very ancient, the smallest I ever saw" in 1791 by John O'Keefe, had originally one aisle, a low square tower, under which was the gallery, reached from the churchyard by an outside flight of stone steps and a small porch on the south side. In 1842 an extension was made, bringing the outside wall level with the porch and thus giving the Church a curiously lop-sided appearance.
In the gallery sat the choir with its flutes, violins, 'cello and double bass. Much of the music was written by local musicians, and many in the village remember hearing of the parts played by their grandparents.
By 1869 the old Church had become dilapidated and inadequate for the needs of the inhabitants of West Lulworth. It was very close to cottages on either side, and the Rev. William Gildea, curate of Winfrith and later a Canon (non resident) of Salisbury Cathedral, whose living it was, of an annual value of about £130, arranged for the building of the new Church and Vicarage on a far more convenient site.
The new Church of the Holy Trinity was built from the designs of Mr. John Hicks of Dorchester, but owing to his death, was carried out by Mr. R. G. Crickmay of Weymouth, the pulpit, font, prayer desk and other internal fittings being from his designs. Messrs. Wellspring & Son, of Dorchester, were the builders. The Dorset County Chronicle of Thursday, 12th May, 1870 states: "The style is Early Geometrical Gothic, and it is built of Purbeck stone, the carved, moulded and highly finished portions of the stonework generally are of Bath freestone. The material of the old Parish Church was used as much as possible. The letters on the moulding over the east window of the transept (behind the organ) stood over a sixteenth-century window in the north wall of the old Church, and read 'Robertus Lulleworth'" presumably the name of an ancient Lord of the Manor, after whom the village is named. "The rear arch springs from demi-angels bearing shields. In the chancel is an oak bench with carved framing and panels of the seventeenth century, which has been restored." (A photograph of a sketch of the old Church is in the vestry.)
The foundation stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, wife of Nathaniel Bond. Esq., of Holme Priory, the fifth daughter of the Second Earl of Eldon. "The stone itself was found buried a foot or two underground in the old churchyard. It now supports four arches, and underneath it was placed a glass bottle containing a newspaper and one or two coins of the year". The brass plate can be seen behind the base of the lectern, and the inscription reads "This stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, June 1st 1869, William Gildea, Vicar, William Randall, Thomas Randall, Jun.. Churchwardens".
The Church was consecrated by the Bishop of Salisbury, Dr. George Moberley, on 11th May, 1870, "In a fierce gale of wind accompanied by heavy rain", in the presence of twenty-five other clergy, the churchwardens and many parishioners and friends.
In his memorandum of November, 1879, the Rev. W. Gildea states: "The Communion Table is made of oak cut out of the beams of the old Church roof, which were much decayed except in the centre".
"Some of the wood in the reredos was wreck picked up at sea and still has trace of the paint of the vessel to which it belonged. The three panels of the reredos were painted by Miss Hicks, daughter of the architect."
The carved panels on either side of the oak reredos, come from Oberammergau. They are carved in deep relief in lime wood, and are the work of Hans Mayer, the son of Josef Mayer, who on three occasions, in the years 1870, 1880 and 1890, acted "Christus" in the Passion Play.
It was after a lecture on the Passion Play given in Lulworth in 1894, by Mr. Arthur Evans, that the villagers heard of the beautiful wood carving at Oberammergau and decided to start a fund to purchase some for the Church. The panels represent the Birth and Baptism of Jesus, the Crucifixion and the Supper at Emmaus. They were placed there in 1895.
The lectern stem and base contain woods from Europe, Asia, Africa and America. The eagle standing on its globe was executed by Messrs. Case, Strand, London.
The Rev. William Gildea was a keen amateur woodworker. Helped by Mr. Basil Sprague, who turned the wood pillars, capitals and bases, and by Mr. John Chaffey, he executed the altar, reredos woodwork, altar rails and the stem of the lectern.
The beautiful carving of the columns and corbels was done by Mr. Benjamin Grassby of Dorchester and was the gift of Mrs. Gildea. The capitals are of French Early Gothic foliage variety.
The illuminated texts over the arches of the Nave were painted by Mr. Thomas Randall of Hamboro’ Farm, who died a few weeks before completion of the work. Members of the Randall family were churchwardens for over 100 years. Mr. Matthew Randall had been chiefly instrumental in adding an aisle to the old Church, and took a great interest in the building of the new one. Mr. William Randall acted as churchwarden throughout the seventeen years of the Rev. W. Gildea's incumbency.
For several years before his death in 1981, Mr. P. J. Franklin , F.C.LO.B., gave generously of his time and expert knowledge; arranged for the complete redecoration of the church; and for the illuminated texts to be repainted by Mr. F. E. J. Chinchen of Lulworth Camp.
The first couple to be married in the new church, on 16th February, 1871, were James George Dorey, aged 23, and Maria Eliza Saunders, aged 24, grandparents of Mr. Walter Dorey, who is the last of the West Lulworth Doreys, a family whose names appear in the earliest registers from 1745. Unfortunately the older registers dating back to the sixteenth century were destroyed by fire.
The earliest mention of a curate is Sir Peter Rosse, 1553. Later names are: S. Haines, 1753; Benjamin Thomton, 1777; John Bale, 1789; Robert Goodrich, 1803; Franklin Tonkin, 1845; J. G. Fisher, 1847; Edward Dix Wood, 1850; Cornell P. West, 1852; Joseph Maskell, 1855; John Wynne, 1857; W. A. Bayley, 1861.
The continued list of Vicars is behind the Font.
The first, the Rev. William Gildea, was obviously a man of great character and many talents. His wife, five sons. and four daughters, together with his large staff at the Vicarage, centred village life around the Church. There is no doubt that he largely financed the building himself, with the aid of loans from Lord Eldon, the Rev. Eldon Bankes, and Nathaniel Bond, Esq.
The Rev. W. Percy Schuster and his family also had an outstanding influence, and provided the Church with most of its stained-glass windows and many essential adornments.
The Parish Church is now included in the list of buildings of special architectural or historic interest.
Tower
The battlemented tower was completed after the Church was consecrated. It was enlarged in 1888 at a cost of £600; two original bells were cast into one and four added in 1892 and a sixth in 1903. The bellringers were very active and the bells rang out to welcome important visitors, mark notable events, etc. In 1911, 1,260 changes were rung in 43 minutes! The weight of the bells varied from 11 cwts. to 4 cwts. They unfortunately proved too heavy for the Belfry, which was demolished and rebuilt in 1952-53, this time at a cost of £6,000. (See photographs in vestry.) The bells were all sold except the:
Tenor - "Through all the changing scenes of life"
III - "Where sweetly chimes this bell
O' er sea and hill and dell
May Jesus Christ be praised"
both dated 1892.
Without the enthusiasm of Lady Fripp, and much help from Captain Schreiber (see later), the tower might never have been rebuilt. Lady Fripp organized a large fête and raised money in many other ways. She also made many gifts to the Church. Sir Alfred and Lady Fripp came to the Mill House in 1911; later Weston was built for them (designed by Lutyens). His father and uncle, Alfred and George Fripp were both well-known artists and painted beautiful water-colours of the old cottages, the Mill pond, the Cove and the rocks of the spring, before the waterworks took away its charm. Sir Alfred, (surgeon to King Edward VII), and Lady Fripp were most popular in the village, and gladly attended to the health of any local sick children. They are both buried in the Churchyard. The close connection of the family with West Lulworth, happily still continues. The Jubilee Clock, made by Messrs. Potts & Co., of Leeds, at an estimated cost of £130, was added in 1897. The clock chimes were reset by Colonel Robert Hamblin, in memory of his wife, Mary, in 1972. He left a legacy of £1,000 to the Church, to which they were both very devoted and generous.
Stained-Glass Windows
The east window was given by Messrs. R. and J. A. Williams of Bridehead, near Dorchester. The west window was given anonymously in 1898, the stained glass is by Kempe and is exceptionally good - a close composition in sombre colours.
The north and south windows in the Sanctuary are in memory of the Rev. W. P. Schuster’s brother, Herbert L. Schuster, Esq. The window in the Chancel is in memory of his sister, Miss Fanny Emily Schuster, and another brother, the Rev. Edmond Vemon Schuster, Rector of Haughton Dale, Lancashire.
The south window and brass plate near the pulpit recall the Rev. John Henry Lonsdale. He was a keen fisherman, a friend of Alfred Fripp since their student days, and frequently officiated in the Church. He loved Lulworth and the little sailing ships which unloaded coal for the Castle and village at the old store in the Cove. Sometimes their anchors cut adrift and caused serious damage to the fishermen's nets, which at that time were hauled in from the mouth of the Cove to under Bindon Hill by eight men. This delightful window, and also payments for divers from Weymouth to remove anchors and other offending obstacles, were given by relatives and friends of this much-loved Dorset parson.
The other south window in the Nave, by A. C. Moore, is in memory of Isaac Fryer, Esq., who in gratitude for the recovery of health of his daughter in 1874, founded "The Fryer Trust" - for the distribution of coals, cash or clothing in the village at Christmas. Inflation, alas, has now made this Trust of little value. It is administered by the Parish Council. This same daughter, Mrs. Russell, when in Lulworth, lived with her crippled child at "Old Sea View" (now the Mill House). When the child died aged 14, the Rev. W. P. Schuster wrote of her as "One who in her short life, set a bright example of faith and hope and patience amid much bodily suffering".
The two north windows in the Nave are in memory of Maria Theresa Schuster, wife of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, whose memorial plaque is in the Chancel; and of Christopher John Claud Schuster, who was sadly killed in action only three months before the end of the First World War. Aged 19, he was the only son of Sir Claud Schuster, afterwards Baron of Ceme, who lived at Gatton Cottage (now Gatton House) and with his wife is buried in the Churchyard. Sir Claud was a nephew of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, and often read the lessons in the Church. The stained glass is beautiful and portrays St. George slaying the dragon, on the left side, and St. Christopher on the right.
Memorial Plaques
Chancel
John Wordsworth, Bishop of Salisbury, son of Bishop Christopher Wordsworth 'Man of Letters'. He officiated at services whenever he was staying at his seaside home, 'Bishop's Cottage', and was a great friend to everyone in the village. His daughter. Rose Salome, was christened in August, 1900 and his granddaughter, Rosa Jane Pelly, in April, 1931, in the Church. His wife is buried in the Churchyard. The plaque is composed of alabaster and opus sectile, bearing the Diocesan and Wordsworth Arms, executed by Messrs. Powell, Whitefriars, London.
William Percy Schuster, Vicar for 27 years until his death. He and his wife, mother, brothers and sister were devoted to the Church, and their generosity is recorded in many of the old Parish Magazines. He and his wife and his sister, Fanny Emily, are buried in the Churchyard. In 1925 the endowment was increased by £1,000 in his memory, by his wife, Maria Theresa. The plaque is surrounded by alabaster, carved with acoms and oak leaves.
Walter Henry Chaffey. He was a faithful verger and churchwarden for 25 years and a member of the choir for 71 years. Quiet, modest and efficient, keenly interested in ecclesiastical law and anything to do with the Church, he never failed in his duty to it. He came from a long line of Lulworth Chaffeys and many of his family still live in East and West Lulworth. He is buried in the Churchyard.
Nave
The Rev. Benjamin Bodycombe (small crucifix above the pulpit). A widower, he married his second wife in the Church. He suffered much ill-health and died after five years as Vicar, and he and his wife are buried in the Churchyard. He took a great interest in the music, and in young people.
Mary Frances Urquhart. Her husband Major Charles James Urquhart built "Oswalds" (now Bincleaves) and after he died she lived at Spring Cottage.
Florence Rose Mary Robson was daughter of the above and wife of Colonel Henry Denne Robson. They also lived at Oswalds. "She was the life and soul of the village," says one who knew her.
Katherine Williams, wife of Regtl, Quartermaster Sergt. William Henry Williams, son of Robert Williams, one of the fishermen of West Lulworth. Her son by her first marriage was:
John Beare, Lance-Corporal, R.E., who died, aged 25, as a prisoner-of-war in Japan in the Second World War.
North Aisle
William Tucker of St. Andrews, another faithful churchwarden for many years in the time of the Rev. W. P. Schuster. He was a popular local farmer, and is buried in the Churchyard.
Jack Stewart Newcombe, Pilot Officer, R.A.F., aged 21, and his brother Gordon Clifford Newcombe, Lieut., R.N., H.M.S. Glorious, aged 25. Both killed flying. Their mother and step-father, Major and Mrs. Campbell, lived at 8 Coastguard Cottages. They were "Two fine young men".
Lychgate
Captain Frederick Godfrey Schreiber, R. N. (Retd.), built the Lychgate in memory of his wife, Agnes Winifred, who died in 1949. It was dedicated by the Bishop of Salisbury in 1953 and is built of oak with a tiled roof. His own name is now inscribed there too. He died in 1966 after living at Stair House for 33 years. Capt Schreiber was a very generous benefactor, he donated £500 to the rebuilding of the Tower, with which work he was much involved. He gave £1,000 4% Consols to form "The Schreiber Trust" in 1954, which is primarily for the general upkeep of the Churchyard, particularly the Lychgate and the Schreiber grave and monument. The brass altar cross was another gift in memory of his wife.
Churchyard
There are many interesting people buried in the Churchyard, villagers both well-known and lesser-known, who all played their part in shaping the life of West Lulworth.
Sittingbourne is a large town up from Faversham on the A2, or the old high road.
Today it is post industrial, mostly, with a one way system and out of town big box stores.
I have seen little of worth in the town when we have passed through. So, Milton Regis was expected to be more of the same.
But the ancient borough is full of fine old timber-framed houses, narrow streets, but beyond them there are endless estates full of identical houses.
Holy Trinity sits the other side of a busy junction, at the end of a short lane, now used mostly by people visiting the large playing field so their dogs don't crap in their owner's back gardens.
Or so it seemed.
Urban churches are rarely open for causal visits, so it proved this time. The young folks paiting the parish offices didn't have a key for the church, so could not help.
So I made do with snapping the outside of the church and large collection of ancient gravestones, one I learn was connected to the Gunpowder Plot.
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The massive 14th century tower grabs attention immediately, but just by the door is a most mysterious headstone which commemorates a man killed by a rocket at an early Guy Fawke`s celebration. Inside, the south aisle is almost as wide as the nave and has a rare rood loft staircase that runs in the thickness of the wall rather than up a spiral staircase. There is little stained glass but the east window, by the firm of Ward and Hughes is rather a masterpiece, with most of the subjects being real portraits – especially the figures of St George and St Uriel. An inscription nearby tells the whole story. At the junction of nave and chancel is a rare benefactions board which is carved to look like a memorial – look out for Faith Hope and Charity. The medieval vestry at the north east corner has an original shuttered window – a rare survival indeed, whilst under the huge tower is a benefactions board recording gifts to dredgermen`s widows. Now you don’t find them very often!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Milton+Regis
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MILTON,
OR, more properly, Middleton, lies the next parish north-westward from Sittingborne, last described, and seems to have taken its name from the Saxon Midletun, a name denoting its situation in the middle part of this county.
THE PARISH of Milton is most of it situated on low flat ground, and extends from the high London road as far as the waters of the Swale northward, adjoining to which, the marshes in this parish are both fresh and salt, of a very large extent. In the southern or upper part of the parish, next to the London road, is a small hamlet, called from the soil Chalkwell, in which there are two modern-built houses of the better sort, the lower most of which has a large tan-yard belonging to it; near it there rise some springs, which fill several large ponds, the reservoirs for a corn mill below them, after which they run along the east skirts of the town, which are a continued swamp of watry bogs, into the creek below. The town, antiently called the king's town of Milton, as being part of the antient possessions of the crown, is situated about half a mile from the high London road, at the eastern boundary of the parish, the greatest part of it on the knole of a hill, extending mostly down the east side of it to the head of the creek, which flows north-westward from hence, and at two miles distance, after several meandrings, joins the waters of the Swale. It has a very indifferent character for health, owing both to the badness of the water, and the gross unwholesome air to which it is subject from its watry situation; nor is it in any degree pleasant, the narrow streets, or rather lanes in it, being badly paved, and for the most part inhabited by seafaring persons, fishermen, and oyster-dredgers.
Its commodious situation for navigation near the Swale, to which the town then stood much nearer than it does at present, caused it to be frequented by the Danes, in their piratical excursions into this county, particularly in 893, these pirates, who had been ravaging. France and the Low Countries, being distressed for subsistence, turned their thoughts towards England, for the sake of plunder: for this purpose, with one of their fleets, they sailed up to Apledore, and with the other, consisting of about eighty ships, under the command of Hastings their captain, they entered the mouth of the river Thames, and landing in this parish built themselves a fortress or castle here. Asserius writes, anno 892, Hastengus fecit sibi firmissimum oppidum apud Middeltunam. Sax. Chron. anno 893, interpreted, Arcem extruxit. Simon Dunelm, coll. 151, H. Huntingdon, lib. 5, Florence of Worcester, p. 595, and Chron. Malros, Fecit munitionem. Spelman, in his Life of Alfred, says, Dani castra validis operibus communiunt. This fortress was erected at a place called Kemsleydowne, in the marshes, about midway between the town and the mouth of the creek, the scite of which is still visible, and being overgrown with wood and bushes, has obtained the name of Castberough. (fn. 1) It is of a square form, and is surrounded by a high bank thrown up, and a broad ditch. There is a raised causeway, very plainly to be seen, leading from it towards the seashore. From this fortress they not only made their excursions and plundered the neighbouring country, but secured themselves against such power as the king might send against them.
This town of Milton being part of the royal demesnes, was a cause of its being destroyed by earl Godwin, who being at variance with Edward the Consessor, came here, with a large force, in the year 1052, and burned this town, then of good condition, to the ground; and afterwards ransacked and spoiled many other of the king's estates throughout the county. After which it does not seem to have been ever restored to its former state.
Its condition in the reign of queen Elizabeth may be seen by the survey, made by her order in the 8th year of her reign; by which it appears, that there were then in this town, houses inhabited one hundred and thirty, persons lacking habitations six, landing-places four, one called Fluddmill keye, appertaining to Sir Henry Cheney; the second, Whitlock's key, now the Town key; the third, Reynolds's, now Page's key; and the fourth, Hamond key, appertaining to Thomas Hayward, now Huggins's key; ships and vessels twenty-six, of which twenty were under ten tons; the rest were of twelve, sixteen, and twenty tons; and persons occupied in trade and fishing twenty four.
Since which the town of Milton has considerably increased, as well in the number of its houses and inhabitants, as in its wealth and trade. The number of houses at present is about two hundred and thirty, which are supposed to contain about twelve hundred inhabitants.
The trade of it chiefly consists in the traffic carrying on weekly at the four wharfs in it, where the corn and commodities of the neighbouring country are shipped for London, and goods of every sort brought back again in return; and in the fishery for oysters, a further account of which will be given hereafter. Besides which, the several mills here do not contribute a little to the benefit of this place; four of these are employed in the grinding of corn, and dressing it into flour; and the fifth, called Perrywinckle mill, was some few years ago applied to the manufacturing of pearl-barley, which used to be imported from Holland; and it was supposed to be the only mill in the kingdom where that article was brought to the same perfection as in Holland, but this manufacture for want of due encouragement has been since discontinued.
The town of Milton is governed by a a portreve, who is chosen annually on St. James's day, by the inhabitants of the parish paying church and poor's rates; whose office is, to oversee the market, and preserve good order within the town, and to execute the office of clerk of the market in all matters, within the hundreds of Milton and Marden; he likewise sets the price of all things which come to the keys, or any other creek within the hundred, being such things as head officers in other towns may set the prices on
The market, which is a very plentiful one for all sorts of butchers meat, poultry, &c. is held on a Saturday weekly, at the shambles, in the center of the town. Adjoining to them is the market-house, having a clock, and a bell, which is rung not only for the purpose of the market, but for the calling of the parshioners to church, for funerals, and for occasional parish meetings. At a small distance northward from the shambles is a king of court-house, being a very low old-timbered tenement, where the courts of the manor are kept, and other meetings held; at other times it is made use of as the school house; underneath it is the town prison.
The school is endowed with the annual sum of nine pounds, an account of which may be seen hereafter, among the charitable benefactions to this parish. The master is appointed by the minister and churchwardens. Nine or ten poor boys are taught to read and write in it.
There is a fair, which used to be held on the feast of St. Margaret, July 13, now, by the alteration of the stile, on the 24th of that month, and the two following days.
The lands in this parish, near the town, and especially on the lower or northern part of it, are very rich and sertile. Adjoining to these are the marshes, which extend to the waters of the Swale. Below the hill westward there is another streamlet, which having turned a mill near the vicarage, runs on not far distant from the church, and court-lodge, situated about half a mile northward below the present town, near which the former one destroyed by Earl Godwin is supposed to have once stood.
In the north-west part of this parish, among the marshes, there is a decoy for wild fowl, the only one, that I know of, in this part of the county. The fowl caught in it, are much esteemed for their size and flavor. Great numbers of them are weekly taken and sent up to London.
In this parish, at a small distance northward from Bobbing-place, is a farm called the Quintin farm, which shews that diversion to have been formerly used in it. (fn. 2)
THE FISHERY belonging to the manor and hundred of Milton is of very considerable account. It seems to have been granted by king John, by his charter, in his 7th year, to the abbot and convent of Faversham, by the description of the fisheries of Milton, which the men of Seasalter then held by the yearly rent of twenty shillings, payable at his manor of Milton, and by doing therefrom the customs and service which were wont to be to it.
King Edward III. in his 4th year, confirmed this grant, as did king Henry VI. and this fishery remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was surrendered up into the king's hands, together with all its possessions.
After which, the fee simple of this fishery remained with the manor in the hands of the crown, till the 10th year of king Charles I. when it was passed away, with it, by the words recited in the grant then made of the manor, to Sir Ed. Browne and Christ. Favell, as will be more fully mentioned below; after which, James Herbert, esq. coming into the possession of it, by the settlement of it from his father Philip, earl of Pembroke, he in the 26th year of king Charles II. obtained a fresh grant of this fishery, against which there was a quo warranto brought in the reign of queen Anne, on a petition of the fishermen of Rochester and Stroud, to shew by what authority they, the grantees, kept courts within their manor of Milton, and restrained the fishermen of those and the adjacent towns, from fishing and dredging for oysters within this hundred and manor: but on a trial had at bar, a verdict was given in his favor. Since which it has continued down, in like manner as the manor of Milton, to the right hon. Philip, viscount Wenman, and Mrs. Anne Herbert, who are at this time proprietors of this fishery, together with the manor.
The company of Fishermen, or Dredgers, of this fishery, hold it by lease from the owners of the manor, at the yearly rent of one hundred pounds and four bushels of oysters. They are governed by their particular officers, under certain rules or bye-laws, made by antient custom at the court baron of the manor. There are now about one hundred and forty freemen belonging to it.
The oysters produced from these grounds, within the limits of this fishery, are usually called Milton Natives, and are esteemed the finest and richest flavored of any in Europe. They are supposed to be the same that Juvenal particularly describes, in his fourth satire, as being reckoned a delicacy even in his time, in these words, satire iv. l. 144:
— Rutupinove edita fundo Ostrea, callebat primo deprendere morsu.
The sum usually returned for these oysters is from 3000l. to 7000l. per annum. The Dutch have been supposed by many, to have engrossed this article of luxury; but they expend but a very small part of the above sums, and sometimes none, for the space of seven years together.
IN THE WESTERN PART of this parish there are several hundred acres of coppice-wood, which are adjoining to a much larger tract of the like sort, extending southward almost as far as Binbury pound, on the west side of Stockbury-valley, for the space of near five miles. These woods, especially those in and near this parish, are noted for the great plenty of chesnut stubs interspersed promiscuously throughout them, which, from the quick and strait growth of this king of wood, makes them very valuable. These are so numerous in them, as to give name to most of these woods near Milton, which, besides their particular names to each of them, are usually called by the general name of Chesnut-woods. And in the presentment made of the customs of the manor of Milton in 1575, it is mentioned, that the occupiers of the three mills holden of the manor should gather yearly for the lord of it nine bushels of chestenottes, in Chestnott wood, or pay eighteen-pence by the year to the queen, who then had the manor in her own hands, and was possessed of three hundred acres of chesnut wood within this hundred.
¶These chesnuts are undoubtedly the indigenuous growth of Britain, planted by the hand of nature. They are interspersed throughout the whole tract, without any form or regularity, and are many of them, by their appearance, of great age; and by numbers of them, which now seem almost worn out and perishing, being made use of as the termini or boundaries, as well of private property as of parishes, it is plain they were first pitched upon, in preference to others, for that purpose, as being the largest and most antient ones of any then existing; and as these are hardly ever cut down or altered, they must have stood sacred to this use from the first introduction of private property into this kingdom, and the first division of it into parishes. Four letters were printed in 1771, after having been read before the Royal Society, two of which were written by Dr. Ducarel, and the other two by Mr. Thorpe and Mr. Hasted, to prove that chesnut-trees were the indigenous growth of this kingdom, in answer to an idea of the hon. Daines Barrington, who had a wish to establish a contrary opinion.
DR. PLOT says, that Herba Britannica, which Twyne and Johnson think to be bistort, Trisolium acetosum, or Oxys; Empetron, quæ est petrafindula Britanniæ prope peculiaris, and Crocus, were found at Milton by Scribonius Largus, when he came into Britain with the emperor Claudius. And he further says, that Crocus sativus, saffron, was heretofore sown and gathered (as now at Walden, in Essex) at Milton, and quotes for his authority, a manuscript rental of the manor of Milton, in the library of Christ-church, Canterbury.
MILTON is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Sittingborne.
The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It is a large handsome building, consisting of two isles and two chancels, the southernmost of which belongs to the manor of Northwood. It has a well built tower at the west end, in which are five bells. In this church, among others, were formerly the arms of Barry, Diggs, Finch, of the Five Ports, of Norwood and Norton, with their several crests, trophies, and banners; of Marten quartering Boteler; one coat, Barry, argent and azure, on a canton of the first, a bird of the second; Argent, three bends azure, within a bordure, eight mullets; Gules, a fess or, between three mullets, argent; and in one of the windows, a man kneeling, with a coat of arms, Six lions rampant, three and three, and underneath, Orate paia Guliel Savage Armigi.
Mauricius ap John, rector of St. George's, in Exeter, was buried in the choir of this church, as appears by his will, anno 1499.
In the year 1070, being the 5th year of his reign, William the Conqueror gave to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, the church of Middelton, and the tenths of all the products accruing from that manor, and the tenths of all its appurtenances, of the land, wood, meadows, and water, excepting the tenths of honey, and rent paid in money. (fn. 12)
Pope Lucius XI. in 1144, at the petition of abbot Hugh de Trottesclive, confirmed the annual pension of ten marcs from this church to that abbey.
In 1168, the conventual church of St. Augustine was the greatest part of it burnt; on which account this church was allotted to the sacristy there, for the repair of it. (fn. 13) But they did not keep it long, for in 1178, at the king's instance, they gave it up, and lost all property both in the church, and the advowson of it. A composition was entered into between the archbishop and the abbot in 1182, concerning the privileges and exemptions of the latter; when it was agreed, that the archdeacon, or his official, should receive his accustomed dues and procurations from the churches of St. Augustine, excepting those of Minster, Northborne, and Chistelet, and from this church likewise, when the monks should again get possession of the appropriation of it.
Four years after which, the abbot demised to the prioress of St. Sexburg of Shepey, the tiches which his monastery possessed, in right of this church, in Bobbing, at the yearly rent of ten shillings, on condition that all housekeepers, which should be on the estates from which they arose, should yearly repair to this the mother church, with their oblations, on Christmas-day, the Purification, and Easter day. And in 1188, the abbot demised to the prioress there, the tenths of Westlonde, within her parish, for the rent of fourteen shillings, payable yearly to the sacrist of St. Augustine.
About the year 1198, the abbot and convent recovered this church, which was then become vacant by the death of one Franco, the person to whom they had given it up, at the instance of king Henry. But they had kept it but a small time, before the archbishop disturbed them in their possession of it. However, by the mediation of mutual friends, and at the king's request, that he would not molest them in their appropriation of it; he out of respect to the king, ratified this church to them, to be possessed by them for ever. (fn. 14)
There was a pension of forty shillings payably yearly from this church, with the chapel belonging to it, to the above monastery, which, with the other pensions from their several churches, was given up by agreement in 1242, for a compensation out of the profits of the church of Preston.
The abbot and convent, among the extensive privileges from the papal see, had obtained an exemption from all archiepiscopal authority, and about the year 1295 made an institution of several new deanries, and apportioned the several churches belonging to his monastery, to each of them, according to their vicinity; one of these was the deanry of Lenham, in which this church was included. This raised great contests with the several archbishops, and after more than five years altercation, the abbot was stripped of these exemptions, and was declared, by the pope's bull, to be subject to the archbishop's jurisdiction, in like manner as before; which entirely dissolved these new deanries, and that of Lenham among them. (fn. 15)
Notwithstanding the abbot and convent seem to have held the appropriation of this church almost from held the appropriation of this church almost from the first grant of it, and though there had been vicars instituted to it long before this time, for Robert de Wikes, who stiles himself vicar of Middelton, by his deed in 1247, granted seven deywerks of land, with the houses built on it, for the habitation of the vicar of Middelton, for the time being; and the abbot and convent had in 1286, assigned a portion for the maintenance of the vicar here; yet there does not appear to have been any regular endowment of a vicarage to it, till the reign of king Edward III. when archbishop Stratford, in 1345, anno 20 Edward III. by his instrument, decreed, that the vicar of the church of Middelton, and his successors, should have the usual mansion of the vicarage, with the garden adjoining to it, together with one acre of the glebe of the same; and that he should have, in the name of the vicarage, all manner of oblations in the church of Middelton, and in all places, situated within the bounds and limits or titheable places of it; and that they should have in the name of the vicarage, all tithes of sylva cædua, wool, lambs, calves, pigs, ducks, geese, swans, pidgeons, cheese, milk-meats, herbage, apples, pears, and other fruit, growing in gardens and orchards, pulse, flax, hemp, eggs, rushes, merchandizes, and of all mills built, or which might in future be built, within the bounds and limits or titheable places of the church, and all other small tithes whatsoever belonging to it, and all legacies left in future to it, which the rectors or vicars of it might of right or custom take; also, that the vicars, in right of the vicarage, should have of the religious, the annual pension of 4s. (fn. 16) sterling, one seam or quarter of corn, and three quarters or seams of barley, on the feast of St. Michael, at Middelton, by them to be yearly paid, on pain of the sequestration of the fruits and profits of the church, belonging to the religious, to be laid on as often and whenever they should cease in the payment of the pension or barley, or should not pay either of them in the time above-mentioned.
But that the vicars should undergo the burthen of serving by themselves, or some other fit priest, the church in divine services, in the finding of one lamp, to burn before the altar of St. Mary there, and the ministering of bread, wine, lights, and other things, which should be necessary for the celebration of divine rights in the church. The burthen likewise of the payment of tenths and other impositions, whenever they might be imposed on the English church, or incumbent on the church, for the taxation of twelve marcs, beyond the burthens allotted to the religious underneath, they should undergo at their own costs and expences.
But the burthen of the reparation and rebuilding of the chancel of the church, both within and without, and also the finding and repairing of books and vestments, and ornaments of the church, which were wont or ought of right or custom, to be found and repaired by the rectors of churches, and all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, incumbent on the church, the religious should undergo and acknowledge for ever, &c. (fn. 17)
The church and vicarage, after this, remained part of the possessions of the monastery, till the final dissolution of it, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was, with all its revenues, surrendered up into the king's hands, who by his dotation-charter, in his 33d year, settled both the appropriation of this church, and the advowson of the vicarage, among other premises, on his new-founded dean and chapter of Christchurch, Canterbury, with whom the inheritance of the parsonage still remains, the interest in the lease of it being now in the heirs of John Cockin Sole, esq. deceased, but the advowson of the vicarage the dean and chapter retain in their own hands, and are the present patrons of it.
The vicarage of Milton is valued in the king's books at 13l. 2s. 6d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 6s. 3d.
¶In 1578, there were here, dwelling-houses on hundred and eight, communicants three hundred and seventy-four. In 1640 this vicarage was valued at eighty pounds. Communicants five hundred and twenty-nine.
The antient annual pension of four shillings, one quarter of wheat, and three quarters of barley, stipulated to be paid by the religious as before-mentioned, still continues to be paid by the lessee of the parsonage, by the covenants of his lease.
The agreement made between the prior of the brethren of the hospital of St. John of Jersalem and the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, about king Henry the IId.'s reign, that whenever their chapel of Rodmersham should be dedicated, and the cemetery consecrated, they would diminish by it none of the mother church of Middleton's rights; has already been more fully mentioned in the account of that parish before. (fn. 18)
I berated myself all the way from the banks of the Medway up the A249 to Sittingbourne, telling myself it would be a wasted trip as clearly the church wouldn't be open. I had, in fairness, just struck out three churches in a row that were closed.
I arrived at the church, found a place to park.
There were no ride and stride signs, nothing to indicate it was open.
More dark mutterings to myself.
As I walked to the churchyard, families were coming out of the park next door, workers were clearing ivy from the wall surrounding the churchyard.
The porch gate had a lock on it, as before, but closer inspection showed it to not actually locking the gate. I tried it and the gate opened.
The next door was also unlocked, so I went through, and was in a void before the inner door.
I pushed and it did not yield.
I opened the middle door to let some light in, found the latch, pushed down and the door swung open to reveal a huge space.
To the west was the interior of the huge tower, big enough to fit some churches in. No ropes now hang down to ring bells.
I could find no light switches, so had to make do with natural light, meaning some details might have been missed.
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The massive 14th century tower grabs attention immediately, but just by the door is a most mysterious headstone which commemorates a man killed by a rocket at an early Guy Fawke`s celebration. Inside, the south aisle is almost as wide as the nave and has a rare rood loft staircase that runs in the thickness of the wall rather than up a spiral staircase. There is little stained glass but the east window, by the firm of Ward and Hughes is rather a masterpiece, with most of the subjects being real portraits – especially the figures of St George and St Uriel. An inscription nearby tells the whole story. At the junction of nave and chancel is a rare benefactions board which is carved to look like a memorial – look out for Faith Hope and Charity. The medieval vestry at the north east corner has an original shuttered window – a rare survival indeed, whilst under the huge tower is a benefactions board recording gifts to dredgermen`s widows. Now you don’t find them very often!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Milton+Regis
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MILTON,
OR, more properly, Middleton, lies the next parish north-westward from Sittingborne, last described, and seems to have taken its name from the Saxon Midletun, a name denoting its situation in the middle part of this county.
THE PARISH of Milton is most of it situated on low flat ground, and extends from the high London road as far as the waters of the Swale northward, adjoining to which, the marshes in this parish are both fresh and salt, of a very large extent. In the southern or upper part of the parish, next to the London road, is a small hamlet, called from the soil Chalkwell, in which there are two modern-built houses of the better sort, the lower most of which has a large tan-yard belonging to it; near it there rise some springs, which fill several large ponds, the reservoirs for a corn mill below them, after which they run along the east skirts of the town, which are a continued swamp of watry bogs, into the creek below. The town, antiently called the king's town of Milton, as being part of the antient possessions of the crown, is situated about half a mile from the high London road, at the eastern boundary of the parish, the greatest part of it on the knole of a hill, extending mostly down the east side of it to the head of the creek, which flows north-westward from hence, and at two miles distance, after several meandrings, joins the waters of the Swale. It has a very indifferent character for health, owing both to the badness of the water, and the gross unwholesome air to which it is subject from its watry situation; nor is it in any degree pleasant, the narrow streets, or rather lanes in it, being badly paved, and for the most part inhabited by seafaring persons, fishermen, and oyster-dredgers.
Its commodious situation for navigation near the Swale, to which the town then stood much nearer than it does at present, caused it to be frequented by the Danes, in their piratical excursions into this county, particularly in 893, these pirates, who had been ravaging. France and the Low Countries, being distressed for subsistence, turned their thoughts towards England, for the sake of plunder: for this purpose, with one of their fleets, they sailed up to Apledore, and with the other, consisting of about eighty ships, under the command of Hastings their captain, they entered the mouth of the river Thames, and landing in this parish built themselves a fortress or castle here. Asserius writes, anno 892, Hastengus fecit sibi firmissimum oppidum apud Middeltunam. Sax. Chron. anno 893, interpreted, Arcem extruxit. Simon Dunelm, coll. 151, H. Huntingdon, lib. 5, Florence of Worcester, p. 595, and Chron. Malros, Fecit munitionem. Spelman, in his Life of Alfred, says, Dani castra validis operibus communiunt. This fortress was erected at a place called Kemsleydowne, in the marshes, about midway between the town and the mouth of the creek, the scite of which is still visible, and being overgrown with wood and bushes, has obtained the name of Castberough. (fn. 1) It is of a square form, and is surrounded by a high bank thrown up, and a broad ditch. There is a raised causeway, very plainly to be seen, leading from it towards the seashore. From this fortress they not only made their excursions and plundered the neighbouring country, but secured themselves against such power as the king might send against them.
This town of Milton being part of the royal demesnes, was a cause of its being destroyed by earl Godwin, who being at variance with Edward the Consessor, came here, with a large force, in the year 1052, and burned this town, then of good condition, to the ground; and afterwards ransacked and spoiled many other of the king's estates throughout the county. After which it does not seem to have been ever restored to its former state.
Its condition in the reign of queen Elizabeth may be seen by the survey, made by her order in the 8th year of her reign; by which it appears, that there were then in this town, houses inhabited one hundred and thirty, persons lacking habitations six, landing-places four, one called Fluddmill keye, appertaining to Sir Henry Cheney; the second, Whitlock's key, now the Town key; the third, Reynolds's, now Page's key; and the fourth, Hamond key, appertaining to Thomas Hayward, now Huggins's key; ships and vessels twenty-six, of which twenty were under ten tons; the rest were of twelve, sixteen, and twenty tons; and persons occupied in trade and fishing twenty four.
Since which the town of Milton has considerably increased, as well in the number of its houses and inhabitants, as in its wealth and trade. The number of houses at present is about two hundred and thirty, which are supposed to contain about twelve hundred inhabitants.
The trade of it chiefly consists in the traffic carrying on weekly at the four wharfs in it, where the corn and commodities of the neighbouring country are shipped for London, and goods of every sort brought back again in return; and in the fishery for oysters, a further account of which will be given hereafter. Besides which, the several mills here do not contribute a little to the benefit of this place; four of these are employed in the grinding of corn, and dressing it into flour; and the fifth, called Perrywinckle mill, was some few years ago applied to the manufacturing of pearl-barley, which used to be imported from Holland; and it was supposed to be the only mill in the kingdom where that article was brought to the same perfection as in Holland, but this manufacture for want of due encouragement has been since discontinued.
The town of Milton is governed by a a portreve, who is chosen annually on St. James's day, by the inhabitants of the parish paying church and poor's rates; whose office is, to oversee the market, and preserve good order within the town, and to execute the office of clerk of the market in all matters, within the hundreds of Milton and Marden; he likewise sets the price of all things which come to the keys, or any other creek within the hundred, being such things as head officers in other towns may set the prices on
The market, which is a very plentiful one for all sorts of butchers meat, poultry, &c. is held on a Saturday weekly, at the shambles, in the center of the town. Adjoining to them is the market-house, having a clock, and a bell, which is rung not only for the purpose of the market, but for the calling of the parshioners to church, for funerals, and for occasional parish meetings. At a small distance northward from the shambles is a king of court-house, being a very low old-timbered tenement, where the courts of the manor are kept, and other meetings held; at other times it is made use of as the school house; underneath it is the town prison.
The school is endowed with the annual sum of nine pounds, an account of which may be seen hereafter, among the charitable benefactions to this parish. The master is appointed by the minister and churchwardens. Nine or ten poor boys are taught to read and write in it.
There is a fair, which used to be held on the feast of St. Margaret, July 13, now, by the alteration of the stile, on the 24th of that month, and the two following days.
The lands in this parish, near the town, and especially on the lower or northern part of it, are very rich and sertile. Adjoining to these are the marshes, which extend to the waters of the Swale. Below the hill westward there is another streamlet, which having turned a mill near the vicarage, runs on not far distant from the church, and court-lodge, situated about half a mile northward below the present town, near which the former one destroyed by Earl Godwin is supposed to have once stood.
In the north-west part of this parish, among the marshes, there is a decoy for wild fowl, the only one, that I know of, in this part of the county. The fowl caught in it, are much esteemed for their size and flavor. Great numbers of them are weekly taken and sent up to London.
In this parish, at a small distance northward from Bobbing-place, is a farm called the Quintin farm, which shews that diversion to have been formerly used in it. (fn. 2)
THE FISHERY belonging to the manor and hundred of Milton is of very considerable account. It seems to have been granted by king John, by his charter, in his 7th year, to the abbot and convent of Faversham, by the description of the fisheries of Milton, which the men of Seasalter then held by the yearly rent of twenty shillings, payable at his manor of Milton, and by doing therefrom the customs and service which were wont to be to it.
King Edward III. in his 4th year, confirmed this grant, as did king Henry VI. and this fishery remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was surrendered up into the king's hands, together with all its possessions.
After which, the fee simple of this fishery remained with the manor in the hands of the crown, till the 10th year of king Charles I. when it was passed away, with it, by the words recited in the grant then made of the manor, to Sir Ed. Browne and Christ. Favell, as will be more fully mentioned below; after which, James Herbert, esq. coming into the possession of it, by the settlement of it from his father Philip, earl of Pembroke, he in the 26th year of king Charles II. obtained a fresh grant of this fishery, against which there was a quo warranto brought in the reign of queen Anne, on a petition of the fishermen of Rochester and Stroud, to shew by what authority they, the grantees, kept courts within their manor of Milton, and restrained the fishermen of those and the adjacent towns, from fishing and dredging for oysters within this hundred and manor: but on a trial had at bar, a verdict was given in his favor. Since which it has continued down, in like manner as the manor of Milton, to the right hon. Philip, viscount Wenman, and Mrs. Anne Herbert, who are at this time proprietors of this fishery, together with the manor.
The company of Fishermen, or Dredgers, of this fishery, hold it by lease from the owners of the manor, at the yearly rent of one hundred pounds and four bushels of oysters. They are governed by their particular officers, under certain rules or bye-laws, made by antient custom at the court baron of the manor. There are now about one hundred and forty freemen belonging to it.
The oysters produced from these grounds, within the limits of this fishery, are usually called Milton Natives, and are esteemed the finest and richest flavored of any in Europe. They are supposed to be the same that Juvenal particularly describes, in his fourth satire, as being reckoned a delicacy even in his time, in these words, satire iv. l. 144:
— Rutupinove edita fundo Ostrea, callebat primo deprendere morsu.
The sum usually returned for these oysters is from 3000l. to 7000l. per annum. The Dutch have been supposed by many, to have engrossed this article of luxury; but they expend but a very small part of the above sums, and sometimes none, for the space of seven years together.
IN THE WESTERN PART of this parish there are several hundred acres of coppice-wood, which are adjoining to a much larger tract of the like sort, extending southward almost as far as Binbury pound, on the west side of Stockbury-valley, for the space of near five miles. These woods, especially those in and near this parish, are noted for the great plenty of chesnut stubs interspersed promiscuously throughout them, which, from the quick and strait growth of this king of wood, makes them very valuable. These are so numerous in them, as to give name to most of these woods near Milton, which, besides their particular names to each of them, are usually called by the general name of Chesnut-woods. And in the presentment made of the customs of the manor of Milton in 1575, it is mentioned, that the occupiers of the three mills holden of the manor should gather yearly for the lord of it nine bushels of chestenottes, in Chestnott wood, or pay eighteen-pence by the year to the queen, who then had the manor in her own hands, and was possessed of three hundred acres of chesnut wood within this hundred.
¶These chesnuts are undoubtedly the indigenuous growth of Britain, planted by the hand of nature. They are interspersed throughout the whole tract, without any form or regularity, and are many of them, by their appearance, of great age; and by numbers of them, which now seem almost worn out and perishing, being made use of as the termini or boundaries, as well of private property as of parishes, it is plain they were first pitched upon, in preference to others, for that purpose, as being the largest and most antient ones of any then existing; and as these are hardly ever cut down or altered, they must have stood sacred to this use from the first introduction of private property into this kingdom, and the first division of it into parishes. Four letters were printed in 1771, after having been read before the Royal Society, two of which were written by Dr. Ducarel, and the other two by Mr. Thorpe and Mr. Hasted, to prove that chesnut-trees were the indigenous growth of this kingdom, in answer to an idea of the hon. Daines Barrington, who had a wish to establish a contrary opinion.
DR. PLOT says, that Herba Britannica, which Twyne and Johnson think to be bistort, Trisolium acetosum, or Oxys; Empetron, quæ est petrafindula Britanniæ prope peculiaris, and Crocus, were found at Milton by Scribonius Largus, when he came into Britain with the emperor Claudius. And he further says, that Crocus sativus, saffron, was heretofore sown and gathered (as now at Walden, in Essex) at Milton, and quotes for his authority, a manuscript rental of the manor of Milton, in the library of Christ-church, Canterbury.
MILTON is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Sittingborne.
The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It is a large handsome building, consisting of two isles and two chancels, the southernmost of which belongs to the manor of Northwood. It has a well built tower at the west end, in which are five bells. In this church, among others, were formerly the arms of Barry, Diggs, Finch, of the Five Ports, of Norwood and Norton, with their several crests, trophies, and banners; of Marten quartering Boteler; one coat, Barry, argent and azure, on a canton of the first, a bird of the second; Argent, three bends azure, within a bordure, eight mullets; Gules, a fess or, between three mullets, argent; and in one of the windows, a man kneeling, with a coat of arms, Six lions rampant, three and three, and underneath, Orate paia Guliel Savage Armigi.
Mauricius ap John, rector of St. George's, in Exeter, was buried in the choir of this church, as appears by his will, anno 1499.
In the year 1070, being the 5th year of his reign, William the Conqueror gave to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, the church of Middelton, and the tenths of all the products accruing from that manor, and the tenths of all its appurtenances, of the land, wood, meadows, and water, excepting the tenths of honey, and rent paid in money. (fn. 12)
Pope Lucius XI. in 1144, at the petition of abbot Hugh de Trottesclive, confirmed the annual pension of ten marcs from this church to that abbey.
In 1168, the conventual church of St. Augustine was the greatest part of it burnt; on which account this church was allotted to the sacristy there, for the repair of it. (fn. 13) But they did not keep it long, for in 1178, at the king's instance, they gave it up, and lost all property both in the church, and the advowson of it. A composition was entered into between the archbishop and the abbot in 1182, concerning the privileges and exemptions of the latter; when it was agreed, that the archdeacon, or his official, should receive his accustomed dues and procurations from the churches of St. Augustine, excepting those of Minster, Northborne, and Chistelet, and from this church likewise, when the monks should again get possession of the appropriation of it.
Four years after which, the abbot demised to the prioress of St. Sexburg of Shepey, the tiches which his monastery possessed, in right of this church, in Bobbing, at the yearly rent of ten shillings, on condition that all housekeepers, which should be on the estates from which they arose, should yearly repair to this the mother church, with their oblations, on Christmas-day, the Purification, and Easter day. And in 1188, the abbot demised to the prioress there, the tenths of Westlonde, within her parish, for the rent of fourteen shillings, payable yearly to the sacrist of St. Augustine.
About the year 1198, the abbot and convent recovered this church, which was then become vacant by the death of one Franco, the person to whom they had given it up, at the instance of king Henry. But they had kept it but a small time, before the archbishop disturbed them in their possession of it. However, by the mediation of mutual friends, and at the king's request, that he would not molest them in their appropriation of it; he out of respect to the king, ratified this church to them, to be possessed by them for ever. (fn. 14)
There was a pension of forty shillings payably yearly from this church, with the chapel belonging to it, to the above monastery, which, with the other pensions from their several churches, was given up by agreement in 1242, for a compensation out of the profits of the church of Preston.
The abbot and convent, among the extensive privileges from the papal see, had obtained an exemption from all archiepiscopal authority, and about the year 1295 made an institution of several new deanries, and apportioned the several churches belonging to his monastery, to each of them, according to their vicinity; one of these was the deanry of Lenham, in which this church was included. This raised great contests with the several archbishops, and after more than five years altercation, the abbot was stripped of these exemptions, and was declared, by the pope's bull, to be subject to the archbishop's jurisdiction, in like manner as before; which entirely dissolved these new deanries, and that of Lenham among them. (fn. 15)
Notwithstanding the abbot and convent seem to have held the appropriation of this church almost from held the appropriation of this church almost from the first grant of it, and though there had been vicars instituted to it long before this time, for Robert de Wikes, who stiles himself vicar of Middelton, by his deed in 1247, granted seven deywerks of land, with the houses built on it, for the habitation of the vicar of Middelton, for the time being; and the abbot and convent had in 1286, assigned a portion for the maintenance of the vicar here; yet there does not appear to have been any regular endowment of a vicarage to it, till the reign of king Edward III. when archbishop Stratford, in 1345, anno 20 Edward III. by his instrument, decreed, that the vicar of the church of Middelton, and his successors, should have the usual mansion of the vicarage, with the garden adjoining to it, together with one acre of the glebe of the same; and that he should have, in the name of the vicarage, all manner of oblations in the church of Middelton, and in all places, situated within the bounds and limits or titheable places of it; and that they should have in the name of the vicarage, all tithes of sylva cædua, wool, lambs, calves, pigs, ducks, geese, swans, pidgeons, cheese, milk-meats, herbage, apples, pears, and other fruit, growing in gardens and orchards, pulse, flax, hemp, eggs, rushes, merchandizes, and of all mills built, or which might in future be built, within the bounds and limits or titheable places of the church, and all other small tithes whatsoever belonging to it, and all legacies left in future to it, which the rectors or vicars of it might of right or custom take; also, that the vicars, in right of the vicarage, should have of the religious, the annual pension of 4s. (fn. 16) sterling, one seam or quarter of corn, and three quarters or seams of barley, on the feast of St. Michael, at Middelton, by them to be yearly paid, on pain of the sequestration of the fruits and profits of the church, belonging to the religious, to be laid on as often and whenever they should cease in the payment of the pension or barley, or should not pay either of them in the time above-mentioned.
But that the vicars should undergo the burthen of serving by themselves, or some other fit priest, the church in divine services, in the finding of one lamp, to burn before the altar of St. Mary there, and the ministering of bread, wine, lights, and other things, which should be necessary for the celebration of divine rights in the church. The burthen likewise of the payment of tenths and other impositions, whenever they might be imposed on the English church, or incumbent on the church, for the taxation of twelve marcs, beyond the burthens allotted to the religious underneath, they should undergo at their own costs and expences.
But the burthen of the reparation and rebuilding of the chancel of the church, both within and without, and also the finding and repairing of books and vestments, and ornaments of the church, which were wont or ought of right or custom, to be found and repaired by the rectors of churches, and all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, incumbent on the church, the religious should undergo and acknowledge for ever, &c. (fn. 17)
The church and vicarage, after this, remained part of the possessions of the monastery, till the final dissolution of it, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was, with all its revenues, surrendered up into the king's hands, who by his dotation-charter, in his 33d year, settled both the appropriation of this church, and the advowson of the vicarage, among other premises, on his new-founded dean and chapter of Christchurch, Canterbury, with whom the inheritance of the parsonage still remains, the interest in the lease of it being now in the heirs of John Cockin Sole, esq. deceased, but the advowson of the vicarage the dean and chapter retain in their own hands, and are the present patrons of it.
The vicarage of Milton is valued in the king's books at 13l. 2s. 6d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 6s. 3d.
¶In 1578, there were here, dwelling-houses on hundred and eight, communicants three hundred and seventy-four. In 1640 this vicarage was valued at eighty pounds. Communicants five hundred and twenty-nine.
The antient annual pension of four shillings, one quarter of wheat, and three quarters of barley, stipulated to be paid by the religious as before-mentioned, still continues to be paid by the lessee of the parsonage, by the covenants of his lease.
The agreement made between the prior of the brethren of the hospital of St. John of Jersalem and the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, about king Henry the IId.'s reign, that whenever their chapel of Rodmersham should be dedicated, and the cemetery consecrated, they would diminish by it none of the mother church of Middleton's rights; has already been more fully mentioned in the account of that parish before. (fn. 18)
Sittingbourne is a large town up from Faversham on the A2, or the old high road.
Today it is post industrial, mostly, with a one way system and out of town big box stores.
I have seen little of worth in the town when we have passed through. So, Milton Regis was expected to be more of the same.
But the ancient borough is full of fine old timber-framed houses, narrow streets, but beyond them there are endless estates full of identical houses.
Holy Trinity sits the other side of a busy junction, at the end of a short lane, now used mostly by people visiting the large playing field so their dogs don't crap in their owner's back gardens.
Or so it seemed.
Urban churches are rarely open for causal visits, so it proved this time. The young folks paiting the parish offices didn't have a key for the church, so could not help.
So I made do with snapping the outside of the church and large collection of ancient gravestones, one I learn was connected to the Gunpowder Plot.
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The massive 14th century tower grabs attention immediately, but just by the door is a most mysterious headstone which commemorates a man killed by a rocket at an early Guy Fawke`s celebration. Inside, the south aisle is almost as wide as the nave and has a rare rood loft staircase that runs in the thickness of the wall rather than up a spiral staircase. There is little stained glass but the east window, by the firm of Ward and Hughes is rather a masterpiece, with most of the subjects being real portraits – especially the figures of St George and St Uriel. An inscription nearby tells the whole story. At the junction of nave and chancel is a rare benefactions board which is carved to look like a memorial – look out for Faith Hope and Charity. The medieval vestry at the north east corner has an original shuttered window – a rare survival indeed, whilst under the huge tower is a benefactions board recording gifts to dredgermen`s widows. Now you don’t find them very often!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Milton+Regis
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MILTON,
OR, more properly, Middleton, lies the next parish north-westward from Sittingborne, last described, and seems to have taken its name from the Saxon Midletun, a name denoting its situation in the middle part of this county.
THE PARISH of Milton is most of it situated on low flat ground, and extends from the high London road as far as the waters of the Swale northward, adjoining to which, the marshes in this parish are both fresh and salt, of a very large extent. In the southern or upper part of the parish, next to the London road, is a small hamlet, called from the soil Chalkwell, in which there are two modern-built houses of the better sort, the lower most of which has a large tan-yard belonging to it; near it there rise some springs, which fill several large ponds, the reservoirs for a corn mill below them, after which they run along the east skirts of the town, which are a continued swamp of watry bogs, into the creek below. The town, antiently called the king's town of Milton, as being part of the antient possessions of the crown, is situated about half a mile from the high London road, at the eastern boundary of the parish, the greatest part of it on the knole of a hill, extending mostly down the east side of it to the head of the creek, which flows north-westward from hence, and at two miles distance, after several meandrings, joins the waters of the Swale. It has a very indifferent character for health, owing both to the badness of the water, and the gross unwholesome air to which it is subject from its watry situation; nor is it in any degree pleasant, the narrow streets, or rather lanes in it, being badly paved, and for the most part inhabited by seafaring persons, fishermen, and oyster-dredgers.
Its commodious situation for navigation near the Swale, to which the town then stood much nearer than it does at present, caused it to be frequented by the Danes, in their piratical excursions into this county, particularly in 893, these pirates, who had been ravaging. France and the Low Countries, being distressed for subsistence, turned their thoughts towards England, for the sake of plunder: for this purpose, with one of their fleets, they sailed up to Apledore, and with the other, consisting of about eighty ships, under the command of Hastings their captain, they entered the mouth of the river Thames, and landing in this parish built themselves a fortress or castle here. Asserius writes, anno 892, Hastengus fecit sibi firmissimum oppidum apud Middeltunam. Sax. Chron. anno 893, interpreted, Arcem extruxit. Simon Dunelm, coll. 151, H. Huntingdon, lib. 5, Florence of Worcester, p. 595, and Chron. Malros, Fecit munitionem. Spelman, in his Life of Alfred, says, Dani castra validis operibus communiunt. This fortress was erected at a place called Kemsleydowne, in the marshes, about midway between the town and the mouth of the creek, the scite of which is still visible, and being overgrown with wood and bushes, has obtained the name of Castberough. (fn. 1) It is of a square form, and is surrounded by a high bank thrown up, and a broad ditch. There is a raised causeway, very plainly to be seen, leading from it towards the seashore. From this fortress they not only made their excursions and plundered the neighbouring country, but secured themselves against such power as the king might send against them.
This town of Milton being part of the royal demesnes, was a cause of its being destroyed by earl Godwin, who being at variance with Edward the Consessor, came here, with a large force, in the year 1052, and burned this town, then of good condition, to the ground; and afterwards ransacked and spoiled many other of the king's estates throughout the county. After which it does not seem to have been ever restored to its former state.
Its condition in the reign of queen Elizabeth may be seen by the survey, made by her order in the 8th year of her reign; by which it appears, that there were then in this town, houses inhabited one hundred and thirty, persons lacking habitations six, landing-places four, one called Fluddmill keye, appertaining to Sir Henry Cheney; the second, Whitlock's key, now the Town key; the third, Reynolds's, now Page's key; and the fourth, Hamond key, appertaining to Thomas Hayward, now Huggins's key; ships and vessels twenty-six, of which twenty were under ten tons; the rest were of twelve, sixteen, and twenty tons; and persons occupied in trade and fishing twenty four.
Since which the town of Milton has considerably increased, as well in the number of its houses and inhabitants, as in its wealth and trade. The number of houses at present is about two hundred and thirty, which are supposed to contain about twelve hundred inhabitants.
The trade of it chiefly consists in the traffic carrying on weekly at the four wharfs in it, where the corn and commodities of the neighbouring country are shipped for London, and goods of every sort brought back again in return; and in the fishery for oysters, a further account of which will be given hereafter. Besides which, the several mills here do not contribute a little to the benefit of this place; four of these are employed in the grinding of corn, and dressing it into flour; and the fifth, called Perrywinckle mill, was some few years ago applied to the manufacturing of pearl-barley, which used to be imported from Holland; and it was supposed to be the only mill in the kingdom where that article was brought to the same perfection as in Holland, but this manufacture for want of due encouragement has been since discontinued.
The town of Milton is governed by a a portreve, who is chosen annually on St. James's day, by the inhabitants of the parish paying church and poor's rates; whose office is, to oversee the market, and preserve good order within the town, and to execute the office of clerk of the market in all matters, within the hundreds of Milton and Marden; he likewise sets the price of all things which come to the keys, or any other creek within the hundred, being such things as head officers in other towns may set the prices on
The market, which is a very plentiful one for all sorts of butchers meat, poultry, &c. is held on a Saturday weekly, at the shambles, in the center of the town. Adjoining to them is the market-house, having a clock, and a bell, which is rung not only for the purpose of the market, but for the calling of the parshioners to church, for funerals, and for occasional parish meetings. At a small distance northward from the shambles is a king of court-house, being a very low old-timbered tenement, where the courts of the manor are kept, and other meetings held; at other times it is made use of as the school house; underneath it is the town prison.
The school is endowed with the annual sum of nine pounds, an account of which may be seen hereafter, among the charitable benefactions to this parish. The master is appointed by the minister and churchwardens. Nine or ten poor boys are taught to read and write in it.
There is a fair, which used to be held on the feast of St. Margaret, July 13, now, by the alteration of the stile, on the 24th of that month, and the two following days.
The lands in this parish, near the town, and especially on the lower or northern part of it, are very rich and sertile. Adjoining to these are the marshes, which extend to the waters of the Swale. Below the hill westward there is another streamlet, which having turned a mill near the vicarage, runs on not far distant from the church, and court-lodge, situated about half a mile northward below the present town, near which the former one destroyed by Earl Godwin is supposed to have once stood.
In the north-west part of this parish, among the marshes, there is a decoy for wild fowl, the only one, that I know of, in this part of the county. The fowl caught in it, are much esteemed for their size and flavor. Great numbers of them are weekly taken and sent up to London.
In this parish, at a small distance northward from Bobbing-place, is a farm called the Quintin farm, which shews that diversion to have been formerly used in it. (fn. 2)
THE FISHERY belonging to the manor and hundred of Milton is of very considerable account. It seems to have been granted by king John, by his charter, in his 7th year, to the abbot and convent of Faversham, by the description of the fisheries of Milton, which the men of Seasalter then held by the yearly rent of twenty shillings, payable at his manor of Milton, and by doing therefrom the customs and service which were wont to be to it.
King Edward III. in his 4th year, confirmed this grant, as did king Henry VI. and this fishery remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was surrendered up into the king's hands, together with all its possessions.
After which, the fee simple of this fishery remained with the manor in the hands of the crown, till the 10th year of king Charles I. when it was passed away, with it, by the words recited in the grant then made of the manor, to Sir Ed. Browne and Christ. Favell, as will be more fully mentioned below; after which, James Herbert, esq. coming into the possession of it, by the settlement of it from his father Philip, earl of Pembroke, he in the 26th year of king Charles II. obtained a fresh grant of this fishery, against which there was a quo warranto brought in the reign of queen Anne, on a petition of the fishermen of Rochester and Stroud, to shew by what authority they, the grantees, kept courts within their manor of Milton, and restrained the fishermen of those and the adjacent towns, from fishing and dredging for oysters within this hundred and manor: but on a trial had at bar, a verdict was given in his favor. Since which it has continued down, in like manner as the manor of Milton, to the right hon. Philip, viscount Wenman, and Mrs. Anne Herbert, who are at this time proprietors of this fishery, together with the manor.
The company of Fishermen, or Dredgers, of this fishery, hold it by lease from the owners of the manor, at the yearly rent of one hundred pounds and four bushels of oysters. They are governed by their particular officers, under certain rules or bye-laws, made by antient custom at the court baron of the manor. There are now about one hundred and forty freemen belonging to it.
The oysters produced from these grounds, within the limits of this fishery, are usually called Milton Natives, and are esteemed the finest and richest flavored of any in Europe. They are supposed to be the same that Juvenal particularly describes, in his fourth satire, as being reckoned a delicacy even in his time, in these words, satire iv. l. 144:
— Rutupinove edita fundo Ostrea, callebat primo deprendere morsu.
The sum usually returned for these oysters is from 3000l. to 7000l. per annum. The Dutch have been supposed by many, to have engrossed this article of luxury; but they expend but a very small part of the above sums, and sometimes none, for the space of seven years together.
IN THE WESTERN PART of this parish there are several hundred acres of coppice-wood, which are adjoining to a much larger tract of the like sort, extending southward almost as far as Binbury pound, on the west side of Stockbury-valley, for the space of near five miles. These woods, especially those in and near this parish, are noted for the great plenty of chesnut stubs interspersed promiscuously throughout them, which, from the quick and strait growth of this king of wood, makes them very valuable. These are so numerous in them, as to give name to most of these woods near Milton, which, besides their particular names to each of them, are usually called by the general name of Chesnut-woods. And in the presentment made of the customs of the manor of Milton in 1575, it is mentioned, that the occupiers of the three mills holden of the manor should gather yearly for the lord of it nine bushels of chestenottes, in Chestnott wood, or pay eighteen-pence by the year to the queen, who then had the manor in her own hands, and was possessed of three hundred acres of chesnut wood within this hundred.
¶These chesnuts are undoubtedly the indigenuous growth of Britain, planted by the hand of nature. They are interspersed throughout the whole tract, without any form or regularity, and are many of them, by their appearance, of great age; and by numbers of them, which now seem almost worn out and perishing, being made use of as the termini or boundaries, as well of private property as of parishes, it is plain they were first pitched upon, in preference to others, for that purpose, as being the largest and most antient ones of any then existing; and as these are hardly ever cut down or altered, they must have stood sacred to this use from the first introduction of private property into this kingdom, and the first division of it into parishes. Four letters were printed in 1771, after having been read before the Royal Society, two of which were written by Dr. Ducarel, and the other two by Mr. Thorpe and Mr. Hasted, to prove that chesnut-trees were the indigenous growth of this kingdom, in answer to an idea of the hon. Daines Barrington, who had a wish to establish a contrary opinion.
DR. PLOT says, that Herba Britannica, which Twyne and Johnson think to be bistort, Trisolium acetosum, or Oxys; Empetron, quæ est petrafindula Britanniæ prope peculiaris, and Crocus, were found at Milton by Scribonius Largus, when he came into Britain with the emperor Claudius. And he further says, that Crocus sativus, saffron, was heretofore sown and gathered (as now at Walden, in Essex) at Milton, and quotes for his authority, a manuscript rental of the manor of Milton, in the library of Christ-church, Canterbury.
MILTON is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Sittingborne.
The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It is a large handsome building, consisting of two isles and two chancels, the southernmost of which belongs to the manor of Northwood. It has a well built tower at the west end, in which are five bells. In this church, among others, were formerly the arms of Barry, Diggs, Finch, of the Five Ports, of Norwood and Norton, with their several crests, trophies, and banners; of Marten quartering Boteler; one coat, Barry, argent and azure, on a canton of the first, a bird of the second; Argent, three bends azure, within a bordure, eight mullets; Gules, a fess or, between three mullets, argent; and in one of the windows, a man kneeling, with a coat of arms, Six lions rampant, three and three, and underneath, Orate paia Guliel Savage Armigi.
Mauricius ap John, rector of St. George's, in Exeter, was buried in the choir of this church, as appears by his will, anno 1499.
In the year 1070, being the 5th year of his reign, William the Conqueror gave to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, the church of Middelton, and the tenths of all the products accruing from that manor, and the tenths of all its appurtenances, of the land, wood, meadows, and water, excepting the tenths of honey, and rent paid in money. (fn. 12)
Pope Lucius XI. in 1144, at the petition of abbot Hugh de Trottesclive, confirmed the annual pension of ten marcs from this church to that abbey.
In 1168, the conventual church of St. Augustine was the greatest part of it burnt; on which account this church was allotted to the sacristy there, for the repair of it. (fn. 13) But they did not keep it long, for in 1178, at the king's instance, they gave it up, and lost all property both in the church, and the advowson of it. A composition was entered into between the archbishop and the abbot in 1182, concerning the privileges and exemptions of the latter; when it was agreed, that the archdeacon, or his official, should receive his accustomed dues and procurations from the churches of St. Augustine, excepting those of Minster, Northborne, and Chistelet, and from this church likewise, when the monks should again get possession of the appropriation of it.
Four years after which, the abbot demised to the prioress of St. Sexburg of Shepey, the tiches which his monastery possessed, in right of this church, in Bobbing, at the yearly rent of ten shillings, on condition that all housekeepers, which should be on the estates from which they arose, should yearly repair to this the mother church, with their oblations, on Christmas-day, the Purification, and Easter day. And in 1188, the abbot demised to the prioress there, the tenths of Westlonde, within her parish, for the rent of fourteen shillings, payable yearly to the sacrist of St. Augustine.
About the year 1198, the abbot and convent recovered this church, which was then become vacant by the death of one Franco, the person to whom they had given it up, at the instance of king Henry. But they had kept it but a small time, before the archbishop disturbed them in their possession of it. However, by the mediation of mutual friends, and at the king's request, that he would not molest them in their appropriation of it; he out of respect to the king, ratified this church to them, to be possessed by them for ever. (fn. 14)
There was a pension of forty shillings payably yearly from this church, with the chapel belonging to it, to the above monastery, which, with the other pensions from their several churches, was given up by agreement in 1242, for a compensation out of the profits of the church of Preston.
The abbot and convent, among the extensive privileges from the papal see, had obtained an exemption from all archiepiscopal authority, and about the year 1295 made an institution of several new deanries, and apportioned the several churches belonging to his monastery, to each of them, according to their vicinity; one of these was the deanry of Lenham, in which this church was included. This raised great contests with the several archbishops, and after more than five years altercation, the abbot was stripped of these exemptions, and was declared, by the pope's bull, to be subject to the archbishop's jurisdiction, in like manner as before; which entirely dissolved these new deanries, and that of Lenham among them. (fn. 15)
Notwithstanding the abbot and convent seem to have held the appropriation of this church almost from held the appropriation of this church almost from the first grant of it, and though there had been vicars instituted to it long before this time, for Robert de Wikes, who stiles himself vicar of Middelton, by his deed in 1247, granted seven deywerks of land, with the houses built on it, for the habitation of the vicar of Middelton, for the time being; and the abbot and convent had in 1286, assigned a portion for the maintenance of the vicar here; yet there does not appear to have been any regular endowment of a vicarage to it, till the reign of king Edward III. when archbishop Stratford, in 1345, anno 20 Edward III. by his instrument, decreed, that the vicar of the church of Middelton, and his successors, should have the usual mansion of the vicarage, with the garden adjoining to it, together with one acre of the glebe of the same; and that he should have, in the name of the vicarage, all manner of oblations in the church of Middelton, and in all places, situated within the bounds and limits or titheable places of it; and that they should have in the name of the vicarage, all tithes of sylva cædua, wool, lambs, calves, pigs, ducks, geese, swans, pidgeons, cheese, milk-meats, herbage, apples, pears, and other fruit, growing in gardens and orchards, pulse, flax, hemp, eggs, rushes, merchandizes, and of all mills built, or which might in future be built, within the bounds and limits or titheable places of the church, and all other small tithes whatsoever belonging to it, and all legacies left in future to it, which the rectors or vicars of it might of right or custom take; also, that the vicars, in right of the vicarage, should have of the religious, the annual pension of 4s. (fn. 16) sterling, one seam or quarter of corn, and three quarters or seams of barley, on the feast of St. Michael, at Middelton, by them to be yearly paid, on pain of the sequestration of the fruits and profits of the church, belonging to the religious, to be laid on as often and whenever they should cease in the payment of the pension or barley, or should not pay either of them in the time above-mentioned.
But that the vicars should undergo the burthen of serving by themselves, or some other fit priest, the church in divine services, in the finding of one lamp, to burn before the altar of St. Mary there, and the ministering of bread, wine, lights, and other things, which should be necessary for the celebration of divine rights in the church. The burthen likewise of the payment of tenths and other impositions, whenever they might be imposed on the English church, or incumbent on the church, for the taxation of twelve marcs, beyond the burthens allotted to the religious underneath, they should undergo at their own costs and expences.
But the burthen of the reparation and rebuilding of the chancel of the church, both within and without, and also the finding and repairing of books and vestments, and ornaments of the church, which were wont or ought of right or custom, to be found and repaired by the rectors of churches, and all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, incumbent on the church, the religious should undergo and acknowledge for ever, &c. (fn. 17)
The church and vicarage, after this, remained part of the possessions of the monastery, till the final dissolution of it, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was, with all its revenues, surrendered up into the king's hands, who by his dotation-charter, in his 33d year, settled both the appropriation of this church, and the advowson of the vicarage, among other premises, on his new-founded dean and chapter of Christchurch, Canterbury, with whom the inheritance of the parsonage still remains, the interest in the lease of it being now in the heirs of John Cockin Sole, esq. deceased, but the advowson of the vicarage the dean and chapter retain in their own hands, and are the present patrons of it.
The vicarage of Milton is valued in the king's books at 13l. 2s. 6d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 6s. 3d.
¶In 1578, there were here, dwelling-houses on hundred and eight, communicants three hundred and seventy-four. In 1640 this vicarage was valued at eighty pounds. Communicants five hundred and twenty-nine.
The antient annual pension of four shillings, one quarter of wheat, and three quarters of barley, stipulated to be paid by the religious as before-mentioned, still continues to be paid by the lessee of the parsonage, by the covenants of his lease.
The agreement made between the prior of the brethren of the hospital of St. John of Jersalem and the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, about king Henry the IId.'s reign, that whenever their chapel of Rodmersham should be dedicated, and the cemetery consecrated, they would diminish by it none of the mother church of Middleton's rights; has already been more fully mentioned in the account of that parish before. (fn. 18)
At both Ditton and Leybourne I was advised, strongly, to go to Larkfield. Mainly because they had a fine new toilet block installed.
It wasn't on my list, but as I was here and the church was barely a mile away: why not?
Larkfield is on the old high road, and then spreads down the hill towards the motorway. Just before the road crosses over the M20, there are the parish offices, but the church itself was a few hundred metres further on, set on a steep slope above the road, almost hidden from view.
There is a bright red sign pointing the way,.
I parked up and walked up, a gentleman was doing some gardening in the house next door, and when I said I had been told to visit here, he raised both eyebrows.
Not a fan, apparently.
Inside I was greeted by three wardens, who were proud of their church, but also aware that even with the spanking new toilets, the church probably has a limited life.
Holy Trinity is a fine, Victorian church, of a singular vision and design, and I have to say, I rather liked it.
Holy Trinity Church is a redundant Anglican parish church in New Church Lane, Ulverston, Cumbria, England. It is recorded in the National Heritage List for England as a designated Grade II listed building. It is a Commissioners' church, having received a grant towards its construction from the Church Building Commission.
Holy Trinity was built between 1829 and 1832, and was designed by Anthony Salvin. A grant of £3,423 (equivalent to £290,000 as of 2015) was given towards its construction by the Church Building Commission, the total cost of construction being £4,978. The interior of the church was re-ordered, and the chancel was added, by the Lancaster architects Paley and Austin in 1880. The church was declared redundant on 1 October 1976, converted for use as a sports hall the following year, and further converted, this time for residential use, in 1996.
The church is constructed in limestone rubble with sandstone dressings, and has slate roofs. Its plan consists of a five-bay nave, north and south aisles, a chancel at a lower level, and a northwest tower with a spire. The tower has angle buttresses, pairs of lancet bell openings over which is a band of trefoils, and pinnacles at the corners. The aisle bays are separated by buttresses. The walls contain lancet windows, with doorways in the western bay on the south side, and in the fourth bay from the west on the north side. At the west end of the church is a doorway, above which is a triple stepped lancet window. There is another triple stepped lancet at the east end of the chancel, and windows with trefoil heads in its north and south walls.
nside the church the five-bay arcades are carried on octagonal piers. In the chancel is a double sedilia and a piscina. The reredos is in marble and alabaster. In the north aisle are two windows containing stained glass, one by Morris, and the other, dating from about 1905, by Kempe.] When the church was examined for listing in the mid-1990s, it was disused, its interior had been subdivided, and false ceilings had been inserted. The original three-manual organ had been built by Bellamy of Manchester. It was updated in 1853 by Jardine and company, also of Manchester, and rebuilt in 1958 by Rushworth and Dreaper.
The old Norman Church, which stood on the north side of the main street, near the village stores, described as "very ancient, the smallest I ever saw" in 1791 by John O'Keefe, had originally one aisle, a low square tower, under which was the gallery, reached from the churchyard by an outside flight of stone steps and a small porch on the south side. In 1842 an extension was made, bringing the outside wall level with the porch and thus giving the Church a curiously lop-sided appearance.
In the gallery sat the choir with its flutes, violins, 'cello and double bass. Much of the music was written by local musicians, and many in the village remember hearing of the parts played by their grandparents.
By 1869 the old Church had become dilapidated and inadequate for the needs of the inhabitants of West Lulworth. It was very close to cottages on either side, and the Rev. William Gildea, curate of Winfrith and later a Canon (non resident) of Salisbury Cathedral, whose living it was, of an annual value of about £130, arranged for the building of the new Church and Vicarage on a far more convenient site.
The new Church of the Holy Trinity was built from the designs of Mr. John Hicks of Dorchester, but owing to his death, was carried out by Mr. R. G. Crickmay of Weymouth, the pulpit, font, prayer desk and other internal fittings being from his designs. Messrs. Wellspring & Son, of Dorchester, were the builders. The Dorset County Chronicle of Thursday, 12th May, 1870 states: "The style is Early Geometrical Gothic, and it is built of Purbeck stone, the carved, moulded and highly finished portions of the stonework generally are of Bath freestone. The material of the old Parish Church was used as much as possible. The letters on the moulding over the east window of the transept (behind the organ) stood over a sixteenth-century window in the north wall of the old Church, and read 'Robertus Lulleworth'" presumably the name of an ancient Lord of the Manor, after whom the village is named. "The rear arch springs from demi-angels bearing shields. In the chancel is an oak bench with carved framing and panels of the seventeenth century, which has been restored." (A photograph of a sketch of the old Church is in the vestry.)
The foundation stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, wife of Nathaniel Bond. Esq., of Holme Priory, the fifth daughter of the Second Earl of Eldon. "The stone itself was found buried a foot or two underground in the old churchyard. It now supports four arches, and underneath it was placed a glass bottle containing a newspaper and one or two coins of the year". The brass plate can be seen behind the base of the lectern, and the inscription reads "This stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, June 1st 1869, William Gildea, Vicar, William Randall, Thomas Randall, Jun.. Churchwardens".
The Church was consecrated by the Bishop of Salisbury, Dr. George Moberley, on 11th May, 1870, "In a fierce gale of wind accompanied by heavy rain", in the presence of twenty-five other clergy, the churchwardens and many parishioners and friends.
In his memorandum of November, 1879, the Rev. W. Gildea states: "The Communion Table is made of oak cut out of the beams of the old Church roof, which were much decayed except in the centre".
"Some of the wood in the reredos was wreck picked up at sea and still has trace of the paint of the vessel to which it belonged. The three panels of the reredos were painted by Miss Hicks, daughter of the architect."
The carved panels on either side of the oak reredos, come from Oberammergau. They are carved in deep relief in lime wood, and are the work of Hans Mayer, the son of Josef Mayer, who on three occasions, in the years 1870, 1880 and 1890, acted "Christus" in the Passion Play.
It was after a lecture on the Passion Play given in Lulworth in 1894, by Mr. Arthur Evans, that the villagers heard of the beautiful wood carving at Oberammergau and decided to start a fund to purchase some for the Church. The panels represent the Birth and Baptism of Jesus, the Crucifixion and the Supper at Emmaus. They were placed there in 1895.
The lectern stem and base contain woods from Europe, Asia, Africa and America. The eagle standing on its globe was executed by Messrs. Case, Strand, London.
The Rev. William Gildea was a keen amateur woodworker. Helped by Mr. Basil Sprague, who turned the wood pillars, capitals and bases, and by Mr. John Chaffey, he executed the altar, reredos woodwork, altar rails and the stem of the lectern.
The beautiful carving of the columns and corbels was done by Mr. Benjamin Grassby of Dorchester and was the gift of Mrs. Gildea. The capitals are of French Early Gothic foliage variety.
The illuminated texts over the arches of the Nave were painted by Mr. Thomas Randall of Hamboro’ Farm, who died a few weeks before completion of the work. Members of the Randall family were churchwardens for over 100 years. Mr. Matthew Randall had been chiefly instrumental in adding an aisle to the old Church, and took a great interest in the building of the new one. Mr. William Randall acted as churchwarden throughout the seventeen years of the Rev. W. Gildea's incumbency.
For several years before his death in 1981, Mr. P. J. Franklin , F.C.LO.B., gave generously of his time and expert knowledge; arranged for the complete redecoration of the church; and for the illuminated texts to be repainted by Mr. F. E. J. Chinchen of Lulworth Camp.
The first couple to be married in the new church, on 16th February, 1871, were James George Dorey, aged 23, and Maria Eliza Saunders, aged 24, grandparents of Mr. Walter Dorey, who is the last of the West Lulworth Doreys, a family whose names appear in the earliest registers from 1745. Unfortunately the older registers dating back to the sixteenth century were destroyed by fire.
The earliest mention of a curate is Sir Peter Rosse, 1553. Later names are: S. Haines, 1753; Benjamin Thomton, 1777; John Bale, 1789; Robert Goodrich, 1803; Franklin Tonkin, 1845; J. G. Fisher, 1847; Edward Dix Wood, 1850; Cornell P. West, 1852; Joseph Maskell, 1855; John Wynne, 1857; W. A. Bayley, 1861.
The continued list of Vicars is behind the Font.
The first, the Rev. William Gildea, was obviously a man of great character and many talents. His wife, five sons. and four daughters, together with his large staff at the Vicarage, centred village life around the Church. There is no doubt that he largely financed the building himself, with the aid of loans from Lord Eldon, the Rev. Eldon Bankes, and Nathaniel Bond, Esq.
The Rev. W. Percy Schuster and his family also had an outstanding influence, and provided the Church with most of its stained-glass windows and many essential adornments.
The Parish Church is now included in the list of buildings of special architectural or historic interest.
Tower
The battlemented tower was completed after the Church was consecrated. It was enlarged in 1888 at a cost of £600; two original bells were cast into one and four added in 1892 and a sixth in 1903. The bellringers were very active and the bells rang out to welcome important visitors, mark notable events, etc. In 1911, 1,260 changes were rung in 43 minutes! The weight of the bells varied from 11 cwts. to 4 cwts. They unfortunately proved too heavy for the Belfry, which was demolished and rebuilt in 1952-53, this time at a cost of £6,000. (See photographs in vestry.) The bells were all sold except the:
Tenor - "Through all the changing scenes of life"
III - "Where sweetly chimes this bell
O' er sea and hill and dell
May Jesus Christ be praised"
both dated 1892.
Without the enthusiasm of Lady Fripp, and much help from Captain Schreiber (see later), the tower might never have been rebuilt. Lady Fripp organized a large fête and raised money in many other ways. She also made many gifts to the Church. Sir Alfred and Lady Fripp came to the Mill House in 1911; later Weston was built for them (designed by Lutyens). His father and uncle, Alfred and George Fripp were both well-known artists and painted beautiful water-colours of the old cottages, the Mill pond, the Cove and the rocks of the spring, before the waterworks took away its charm. Sir Alfred, (surgeon to King Edward VII), and Lady Fripp were most popular in the village, and gladly attended to the health of any local sick children. They are both buried in the Churchyard. The close connection of the family with West Lulworth, happily still continues. The Jubilee Clock, made by Messrs. Potts & Co., of Leeds, at an estimated cost of £130, was added in 1897. The clock chimes were reset by Colonel Robert Hamblin, in memory of his wife, Mary, in 1972. He left a legacy of £1,000 to the Church, to which they were both very devoted and generous.
Stained-Glass Windows
The east window was given by Messrs. R. and J. A. Williams of Bridehead, near Dorchester. The west window was given anonymously in 1898, the stained glass is by Kempe and is exceptionally good - a close composition in sombre colours.
The north and south windows in the Sanctuary are in memory of the Rev. W. P. Schuster’s brother, Herbert L. Schuster, Esq. The window in the Chancel is in memory of his sister, Miss Fanny Emily Schuster, and another brother, the Rev. Edmond Vemon Schuster, Rector of Haughton Dale, Lancashire.
The south window and brass plate near the pulpit recall the Rev. John Henry Lonsdale. He was a keen fisherman, a friend of Alfred Fripp since their student days, and frequently officiated in the Church. He loved Lulworth and the little sailing ships which unloaded coal for the Castle and village at the old store in the Cove. Sometimes their anchors cut adrift and caused serious damage to the fishermen's nets, which at that time were hauled in from the mouth of the Cove to under Bindon Hill by eight men. This delightful window, and also payments for divers from Weymouth to remove anchors and other offending obstacles, were given by relatives and friends of this much-loved Dorset parson.
The other south window in the Nave, by A. C. Moore, is in memory of Isaac Fryer, Esq., who in gratitude for the recovery of health of his daughter in 1874, founded "The Fryer Trust" - for the distribution of coals, cash or clothing in the village at Christmas. Inflation, alas, has now made this Trust of little value. It is administered by the Parish Council. This same daughter, Mrs. Russell, when in Lulworth, lived with her crippled child at "Old Sea View" (now the Mill House). When the child died aged 14, the Rev. W. P. Schuster wrote of her as "One who in her short life, set a bright example of faith and hope and patience amid much bodily suffering".
The two north windows in the Nave are in memory of Maria Theresa Schuster, wife of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, whose memorial plaque is in the Chancel; and of Christopher John Claud Schuster, who was sadly killed in action only three months before the end of the First World War. Aged 19, he was the only son of Sir Claud Schuster, afterwards Baron of Ceme, who lived at Gatton Cottage (now Gatton House) and with his wife is buried in the Churchyard. Sir Claud was a nephew of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, and often read the lessons in the Church. The stained glass is beautiful and portrays St. George slaying the dragon, on the left side, and St. Christopher on the right.
Memorial Plaques
Chancel
John Wordsworth, Bishop of Salisbury, son of Bishop Christopher Wordsworth 'Man of Letters'. He officiated at services whenever he was staying at his seaside home, 'Bishop's Cottage', and was a great friend to everyone in the village. His daughter. Rose Salome, was christened in August, 1900 and his granddaughter, Rosa Jane Pelly, in April, 1931, in the Church. His wife is buried in the Churchyard. The plaque is composed of alabaster and opus sectile, bearing the Diocesan and Wordsworth Arms, executed by Messrs. Powell, Whitefriars, London.
William Percy Schuster, Vicar for 27 years until his death. He and his wife, mother, brothers and sister were devoted to the Church, and their generosity is recorded in many of the old Parish Magazines. He and his wife and his sister, Fanny Emily, are buried in the Churchyard. In 1925 the endowment was increased by £1,000 in his memory, by his wife, Maria Theresa. The plaque is surrounded by alabaster, carved with acoms and oak leaves.
Walter Henry Chaffey. He was a faithful verger and churchwarden for 25 years and a member of the choir for 71 years. Quiet, modest and efficient, keenly interested in ecclesiastical law and anything to do with the Church, he never failed in his duty to it. He came from a long line of Lulworth Chaffeys and many of his family still live in East and West Lulworth. He is buried in the Churchyard.
Nave
The Rev. Benjamin Bodycombe (small crucifix above the pulpit). A widower, he married his second wife in the Church. He suffered much ill-health and died after five years as Vicar, and he and his wife are buried in the Churchyard. He took a great interest in the music, and in young people.
Mary Frances Urquhart. Her husband Major Charles James Urquhart built "Oswalds" (now Bincleaves) and after he died she lived at Spring Cottage.
Florence Rose Mary Robson was daughter of the above and wife of Colonel Henry Denne Robson. They also lived at Oswalds. "She was the life and soul of the village," says one who knew her.
Katherine Williams, wife of Regtl, Quartermaster Sergt. William Henry Williams, son of Robert Williams, one of the fishermen of West Lulworth. Her son by her first marriage was:
John Beare, Lance-Corporal, R.E., who died, aged 25, as a prisoner-of-war in Japan in the Second World War.
North Aisle
William Tucker of St. Andrews, another faithful churchwarden for many years in the time of the Rev. W. P. Schuster. He was a popular local farmer, and is buried in the Churchyard.
Jack Stewart Newcombe, Pilot Officer, R.A.F., aged 21, and his brother Gordon Clifford Newcombe, Lieut., R.N., H.M.S. Glorious, aged 25. Both killed flying. Their mother and step-father, Major and Mrs. Campbell, lived at 8 Coastguard Cottages. They were "Two fine young men".
Lychgate
Captain Frederick Godfrey Schreiber, R. N. (Retd.), built the Lychgate in memory of his wife, Agnes Winifred, who died in 1949. It was dedicated by the Bishop of Salisbury in 1953 and is built of oak with a tiled roof. His own name is now inscribed there too. He died in 1966 after living at Stair House for 33 years. Capt Schreiber was a very generous benefactor, he donated £500 to the rebuilding of the Tower, with which work he was much involved. He gave £1,000 4% Consols to form "The Schreiber Trust" in 1954, which is primarily for the general upkeep of the Churchyard, particularly the Lychgate and the Schreiber grave and monument. The brass altar cross was another gift in memory of his wife.
Churchyard
There are many interesting people buried in the Churchyard, villagers both well-known and lesser-known, who all played their part in shaping the life of West Lulworth.
The old Norman Church, which stood on the north side of the main street, near the village stores, described as "very ancient, the smallest I ever saw" in 1791 by John O'Keefe, had originally one aisle, a low square tower, under which was the gallery, reached from the churchyard by an outside flight of stone steps and a small porch on the south side. In 1842 an extension was made, bringing the outside wall level with the porch and thus giving the Church a curiously lop-sided appearance.
In the gallery sat the choir with its flutes, violins, 'cello and double bass. Much of the music was written by local musicians, and many in the village remember hearing of the parts played by their grandparents.
By 1869 the old Church had become dilapidated and inadequate for the needs of the inhabitants of West Lulworth. It was very close to cottages on either side, and the Rev. William Gildea, curate of Winfrith and later a Canon (non resident) of Salisbury Cathedral, whose living it was, of an annual value of about £130, arranged for the building of the new Church and Vicarage on a far more convenient site.
The new Church of the Holy Trinity was built from the designs of Mr. John Hicks of Dorchester, but owing to his death, was carried out by Mr. R. G. Crickmay of Weymouth, the pulpit, font, prayer desk and other internal fittings being from his designs. Messrs. Wellspring & Son, of Dorchester, were the builders. The Dorset County Chronicle of Thursday, 12th May, 1870 states: "The style is Early Geometrical Gothic, and it is built of Purbeck stone, the carved, moulded and highly finished portions of the stonework generally are of Bath freestone. The material of the old Parish Church was used as much as possible. The letters on the moulding over the east window of the transept (behind the organ) stood over a sixteenth-century window in the north wall of the old Church, and read 'Robertus Lulleworth'" presumably the name of an ancient Lord of the Manor, after whom the village is named. "The rear arch springs from demi-angels bearing shields. In the chancel is an oak bench with carved framing and panels of the seventeenth century, which has been restored." (A photograph of a sketch of the old Church is in the vestry.)
The foundation stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, wife of Nathaniel Bond. Esq., of Holme Priory, the fifth daughter of the Second Earl of Eldon. "The stone itself was found buried a foot or two underground in the old churchyard. It now supports four arches, and underneath it was placed a glass bottle containing a newspaper and one or two coins of the year". The brass plate can be seen behind the base of the lectern, and the inscription reads "This stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, June 1st 1869, William Gildea, Vicar, William Randall, Thomas Randall, Jun.. Churchwardens".
The Church was consecrated by the Bishop of Salisbury, Dr. George Moberley, on 11th May, 1870, "In a fierce gale of wind accompanied by heavy rain", in the presence of twenty-five other clergy, the churchwardens and many parishioners and friends.
In his memorandum of November, 1879, the Rev. W. Gildea states: "The Communion Table is made of oak cut out of the beams of the old Church roof, which were much decayed except in the centre".
"Some of the wood in the reredos was wreck picked up at sea and still has trace of the paint of the vessel to which it belonged. The three panels of the reredos were painted by Miss Hicks, daughter of the architect."
The carved panels on either side of the oak reredos, come from Oberammergau. They are carved in deep relief in lime wood, and are the work of Hans Mayer, the son of Josef Mayer, who on three occasions, in the years 1870, 1880 and 1890, acted "Christus" in the Passion Play.
It was after a lecture on the Passion Play given in Lulworth in 1894, by Mr. Arthur Evans, that the villagers heard of the beautiful wood carving at Oberammergau and decided to start a fund to purchase some for the Church. The panels represent the Birth and Baptism of Jesus, the Crucifixion and the Supper at Emmaus. They were placed there in 1895.
The lectern stem and base contain woods from Europe, Asia, Africa and America. The eagle standing on its globe was executed by Messrs. Case, Strand, London.
The Rev. William Gildea was a keen amateur woodworker. Helped by Mr. Basil Sprague, who turned the wood pillars, capitals and bases, and by Mr. John Chaffey, he executed the altar, reredos woodwork, altar rails and the stem of the lectern.
The beautiful carving of the columns and corbels was done by Mr. Benjamin Grassby of Dorchester and was the gift of Mrs. Gildea. The capitals are of French Early Gothic foliage variety.
The illuminated texts over the arches of the Nave were painted by Mr. Thomas Randall of Hamboro’ Farm, who died a few weeks before completion of the work. Members of the Randall family were churchwardens for over 100 years. Mr. Matthew Randall had been chiefly instrumental in adding an aisle to the old Church, and took a great interest in the building of the new one. Mr. William Randall acted as churchwarden throughout the seventeen years of the Rev. W. Gildea's incumbency.
For several years before his death in 1981, Mr. P. J. Franklin , F.C.LO.B., gave generously of his time and expert knowledge; arranged for the complete redecoration of the church; and for the illuminated texts to be repainted by Mr. F. E. J. Chinchen of Lulworth Camp.
The first couple to be married in the new church, on 16th February, 1871, were James George Dorey, aged 23, and Maria Eliza Saunders, aged 24, grandparents of Mr. Walter Dorey, who is the last of the West Lulworth Doreys, a family whose names appear in the earliest registers from 1745. Unfortunately the older registers dating back to the sixteenth century were destroyed by fire.
The earliest mention of a curate is Sir Peter Rosse, 1553. Later names are: S. Haines, 1753; Benjamin Thomton, 1777; John Bale, 1789; Robert Goodrich, 1803; Franklin Tonkin, 1845; J. G. Fisher, 1847; Edward Dix Wood, 1850; Cornell P. West, 1852; Joseph Maskell, 1855; John Wynne, 1857; W. A. Bayley, 1861.
The continued list of Vicars is behind the Font.
The first, the Rev. William Gildea, was obviously a man of great character and many talents. His wife, five sons. and four daughters, together with his large staff at the Vicarage, centred village life around the Church. There is no doubt that he largely financed the building himself, with the aid of loans from Lord Eldon, the Rev. Eldon Bankes, and Nathaniel Bond, Esq.
The Rev. W. Percy Schuster and his family also had an outstanding influence, and provided the Church with most of its stained-glass windows and many essential adornments.
The Parish Church is now included in the list of buildings of special architectural or historic interest.
Tower
The battlemented tower was completed after the Church was consecrated. It was enlarged in 1888 at a cost of £600; two original bells were cast into one and four added in 1892 and a sixth in 1903. The bellringers were very active and the bells rang out to welcome important visitors, mark notable events, etc. In 1911, 1,260 changes were rung in 43 minutes! The weight of the bells varied from 11 cwts. to 4 cwts. They unfortunately proved too heavy for the Belfry, which was demolished and rebuilt in 1952-53, this time at a cost of £6,000. (See photographs in vestry.) The bells were all sold except the:
Tenor - "Through all the changing scenes of life"
III - "Where sweetly chimes this bell
O' er sea and hill and dell
May Jesus Christ be praised"
both dated 1892.
Without the enthusiasm of Lady Fripp, and much help from Captain Schreiber (see later), the tower might never have been rebuilt. Lady Fripp organized a large fête and raised money in many other ways. She also made many gifts to the Church. Sir Alfred and Lady Fripp came to the Mill House in 1911; later Weston was built for them (designed by Lutyens). His father and uncle, Alfred and George Fripp were both well-known artists and painted beautiful water-colours of the old cottages, the Mill pond, the Cove and the rocks of the spring, before the waterworks took away its charm. Sir Alfred, (surgeon to King Edward VII), and Lady Fripp were most popular in the village, and gladly attended to the health of any local sick children. They are both buried in the Churchyard. The close connection of the family with West Lulworth, happily still continues. The Jubilee Clock, made by Messrs. Potts & Co., of Leeds, at an estimated cost of £130, was added in 1897. The clock chimes were reset by Colonel Robert Hamblin, in memory of his wife, Mary, in 1972. He left a legacy of £1,000 to the Church, to which they were both very devoted and generous.
Stained-Glass Windows
The east window was given by Messrs. R. and J. A. Williams of Bridehead, near Dorchester. The west window was given anonymously in 1898, the stained glass is by Kempe and is exceptionally good - a close composition in sombre colours.
The north and south windows in the Sanctuary are in memory of the Rev. W. P. Schuster’s brother, Herbert L. Schuster, Esq. The window in the Chancel is in memory of his sister, Miss Fanny Emily Schuster, and another brother, the Rev. Edmond Vemon Schuster, Rector of Haughton Dale, Lancashire.
The south window and brass plate near the pulpit recall the Rev. John Henry Lonsdale. He was a keen fisherman, a friend of Alfred Fripp since their student days, and frequently officiated in the Church. He loved Lulworth and the little sailing ships which unloaded coal for the Castle and village at the old store in the Cove. Sometimes their anchors cut adrift and caused serious damage to the fishermen's nets, which at that time were hauled in from the mouth of the Cove to under Bindon Hill by eight men. This delightful window, and also payments for divers from Weymouth to remove anchors and other offending obstacles, were given by relatives and friends of this much-loved Dorset parson.
The other south window in the Nave, by A. C. Moore, is in memory of Isaac Fryer, Esq., who in gratitude for the recovery of health of his daughter in 1874, founded "The Fryer Trust" - for the distribution of coals, cash or clothing in the village at Christmas. Inflation, alas, has now made this Trust of little value. It is administered by the Parish Council. This same daughter, Mrs. Russell, when in Lulworth, lived with her crippled child at "Old Sea View" (now the Mill House). When the child died aged 14, the Rev. W. P. Schuster wrote of her as "One who in her short life, set a bright example of faith and hope and patience amid much bodily suffering".
The two north windows in the Nave are in memory of Maria Theresa Schuster, wife of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, whose memorial plaque is in the Chancel; and of Christopher John Claud Schuster, who was sadly killed in action only three months before the end of the First World War. Aged 19, he was the only son of Sir Claud Schuster, afterwards Baron of Ceme, who lived at Gatton Cottage (now Gatton House) and with his wife is buried in the Churchyard. Sir Claud was a nephew of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, and often read the lessons in the Church. The stained glass is beautiful and portrays St. George slaying the dragon, on the left side, and St. Christopher on the right.
Memorial Plaques
Chancel
John Wordsworth, Bishop of Salisbury, son of Bishop Christopher Wordsworth 'Man of Letters'. He officiated at services whenever he was staying at his seaside home, 'Bishop's Cottage', and was a great friend to everyone in the village. His daughter. Rose Salome, was christened in August, 1900 and his granddaughter, Rosa Jane Pelly, in April, 1931, in the Church. His wife is buried in the Churchyard. The plaque is composed of alabaster and opus sectile, bearing the Diocesan and Wordsworth Arms, executed by Messrs. Powell, Whitefriars, London.
William Percy Schuster, Vicar for 27 years until his death. He and his wife, mother, brothers and sister were devoted to the Church, and their generosity is recorded in many of the old Parish Magazines. He and his wife and his sister, Fanny Emily, are buried in the Churchyard. In 1925 the endowment was increased by £1,000 in his memory, by his wife, Maria Theresa. The plaque is surrounded by alabaster, carved with acoms and oak leaves.
Walter Henry Chaffey. He was a faithful verger and churchwarden for 25 years and a member of the choir for 71 years. Quiet, modest and efficient, keenly interested in ecclesiastical law and anything to do with the Church, he never failed in his duty to it. He came from a long line of Lulworth Chaffeys and many of his family still live in East and West Lulworth. He is buried in the Churchyard.
Nave
The Rev. Benjamin Bodycombe (small crucifix above the pulpit). A widower, he married his second wife in the Church. He suffered much ill-health and died after five years as Vicar, and he and his wife are buried in the Churchyard. He took a great interest in the music, and in young people.
Mary Frances Urquhart. Her husband Major Charles James Urquhart built "Oswalds" (now Bincleaves) and after he died she lived at Spring Cottage.
Florence Rose Mary Robson was daughter of the above and wife of Colonel Henry Denne Robson. They also lived at Oswalds. "She was the life and soul of the village," says one who knew her.
Katherine Williams, wife of Regtl, Quartermaster Sergt. William Henry Williams, son of Robert Williams, one of the fishermen of West Lulworth. Her son by her first marriage was:
John Beare, Lance-Corporal, R.E., who died, aged 25, as a prisoner-of-war in Japan in the Second World War.
North Aisle
William Tucker of St. Andrews, another faithful churchwarden for many years in the time of the Rev. W. P. Schuster. He was a popular local farmer, and is buried in the Churchyard.
Jack Stewart Newcombe, Pilot Officer, R.A.F., aged 21, and his brother Gordon Clifford Newcombe, Lieut., R.N., H.M.S. Glorious, aged 25. Both killed flying. Their mother and step-father, Major and Mrs. Campbell, lived at 8 Coastguard Cottages. They were "Two fine young men".
Lychgate
Captain Frederick Godfrey Schreiber, R. N. (Retd.), built the Lychgate in memory of his wife, Agnes Winifred, who died in 1949. It was dedicated by the Bishop of Salisbury in 1953 and is built of oak with a tiled roof. His own name is now inscribed there too. He died in 1966 after living at Stair House for 33 years. Capt Schreiber was a very generous benefactor, he donated £500 to the rebuilding of the Tower, with which work he was much involved. He gave £1,000 4% Consols to form "The Schreiber Trust" in 1954, which is primarily for the general upkeep of the Churchyard, particularly the Lychgate and the Schreiber grave and monument. The brass altar cross was another gift in memory of his wife.
Churchyard
There are many interesting people buried in the Churchyard, villagers both well-known and lesser-known, who all played their part in shaping the life of West Lulworth.
Loseley mausoleum chapel of the Moore / More family.
Lying on an altar tomb - Sir William More / Moore of Loseley House, Surrey (30 January 1520 – 20 July 1600) & 2nd wife Margaret Daniell with their son & 2 daughters kneeling behind
His epitaph describes him as ‘evermore a zealous professor of true religion, and a favourer of all those ... truly ... religious, spending his days in the service of our late sovereign of blessed memory, Queen Elizabeth, in whose favour he lived and died ...’.
William More was the son of Sir Christopher More, King's Remembrancer of the Exchequer 1549 & 1st wife Margaret daughter of Joan & Walter Mugge / Mudge 1495 of Guildford (His father m2 Constance daughter of Richard Sackville & widow of William Heneage)
He was the grandson of a London fishmonger John More & wife Elizabeth.
William m1 1545 Mabel daughter of Mark / Marchion Dingley of Wolverton IOW having no issue.
He m2 1551 Margaret heiress of Ralph Daniell of Swaffham, Norfolk, by Katherine Marrowe,
Children - 1 son & 2 daughters
1. Sir George More m1 Anne 1590 www.flickr.com/gp/52219527@N00/Re6U74 daughter of Sir Adrian Poynings of Burngate, Dorset, having 3 sons & 5 daughters. m2 Constance daughter of John Michell of Stammerham, Sussex.
1. Elizabeth More 1552-1600 www.flickr.com/gp/52219527@N00/4TdY2X m1 Richard Polstead 1576 m2 Sir John Wolley, m3 Lord Chancellor Egerton.
2. Anne More 1624 m Sir George Mainwaring 1628 of Ightfield, Shropshire 3 x flic.kr/p/ebUaACgreat grandson of William Mainwaring 1497
In his will of January 1597 he begins - "Having assured hope, through the death, merits and passion of my only Saviour and Redeemer Jesus Christ, not only to have free pardon and remission of all my sins, but also to enjoy with Him His everlasting kingdom, utterly rejecting all other ways and means to attain thereunto than only by my said Saviour Jesus Christ ... "
His to funeral to avoid ‘all pomp and vain glory’ and ends:
‘and thus our Lord God have mercy upon me and receive my soul into His hands’. He left almost everything to his only son George and his heirs. His youngest daughter Anne Mainwaring was to have a cup worth £6 13s.4d., and a cousin, Gillian Cowper, a coach. There were generous bequests to servants, and the executor was asked to ‘consider’ the poor of Guildford, Godalming, Compton and Shalford". As well as property in Kent, Surrey and Sussex, William owned houses in Blackfriars, one of which he leased to James Burbage in 1596 which became the Blackfriars theatre.
Over the cornice above are 3 shields with coats of arms ; the middle one is quarterly I and 4, Azure a cross argent with 5
martlets sable thereon, for More ; 2 and 3, Argent a chevron
between 3 cockatrices gules, for Mudge ; the north shield has More impaling Dingley, Argent a fesse with a molet between 2 roundels sable in the chief, the south shield has More and Mudge quartered impaling a coat of 7 quarters.
- Church of St Nicholas Guildford Surrey
wikivisually.com/wiki/William_More_(died_1600)
Picture with thanks copyright Christopher Reynolds historicengland.org.uk/listing/the-list/list-entry/1029291
www.historyofparliamentonline.org/volume/1558-1603/member...
Records show this to be one of the most substantial examples of a Norman brick-building remaining in England. Built in the early 12th Century, and then altered in the 14th and 15th Centuries, the building is mainly constructed of flint and pebble rubble containing blocks of indurated conglomerate and some Roman tiles. The interior walls feature 14th century wall paintings which were extensively conserved by the Courtauld Institute in the 1990s and are amongst the best fresco paintings in Britain. The Church is some two miles from the current village of Bradwell and may be a "Plague Church" where the village was abandoned, but the stone-built church remained.
Leading to an upper room at Holy Trinity Church Tilgate
I wasn't sure whether I prefer it in colour or black & white.
The old Norman Church, which stood on the north side of the main street, near the village stores, described as "very ancient, the smallest I ever saw" in 1791 by John O'Keefe, had originally one aisle, a low square tower, under which was the gallery, reached from the churchyard by an outside flight of stone steps and a small porch on the south side. In 1842 an extension was made, bringing the outside wall level with the porch and thus giving the Church a curiously lop-sided appearance.
In the gallery sat the choir with its flutes, violins, 'cello and double bass. Much of the music was written by local musicians, and many in the village remember hearing of the parts played by their grandparents.
By 1869 the old Church had become dilapidated and inadequate for the needs of the inhabitants of West Lulworth. It was very close to cottages on either side, and the Rev. William Gildea, curate of Winfrith and later a Canon (non resident) of Salisbury Cathedral, whose living it was, of an annual value of about £130, arranged for the building of the new Church and Vicarage on a far more convenient site.
The new Church of the Holy Trinity was built from the designs of Mr. John Hicks of Dorchester, but owing to his death, was carried out by Mr. R. G. Crickmay of Weymouth, the pulpit, font, prayer desk and other internal fittings being from his designs. Messrs. Wellspring & Son, of Dorchester, were the builders. The Dorset County Chronicle of Thursday, 12th May, 1870 states: "The style is Early Geometrical Gothic, and it is built of Purbeck stone, the carved, moulded and highly finished portions of the stonework generally are of Bath freestone. The material of the old Parish Church was used as much as possible. The letters on the moulding over the east window of the transept (behind the organ) stood over a sixteenth-century window in the north wall of the old Church, and read 'Robertus Lulleworth'" presumably the name of an ancient Lord of the Manor, after whom the village is named. "The rear arch springs from demi-angels bearing shields. In the chancel is an oak bench with carved framing and panels of the seventeenth century, which has been restored." (A photograph of a sketch of the old Church is in the vestry.)
The foundation stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, wife of Nathaniel Bond. Esq., of Holme Priory, the fifth daughter of the Second Earl of Eldon. "The stone itself was found buried a foot or two underground in the old churchyard. It now supports four arches, and underneath it was placed a glass bottle containing a newspaper and one or two coins of the year". The brass plate can be seen behind the base of the lectern, and the inscription reads "This stone was laid by Lady Selina Bond, June 1st 1869, William Gildea, Vicar, William Randall, Thomas Randall, Jun.. Churchwardens".
The Church was consecrated by the Bishop of Salisbury, Dr. George Moberley, on 11th May, 1870, "In a fierce gale of wind accompanied by heavy rain", in the presence of twenty-five other clergy, the churchwardens and many parishioners and friends.
In his memorandum of November, 1879, the Rev. W. Gildea states: "The Communion Table is made of oak cut out of the beams of the old Church roof, which were much decayed except in the centre".
"Some of the wood in the reredos was wreck picked up at sea and still has trace of the paint of the vessel to which it belonged. The three panels of the reredos were painted by Miss Hicks, daughter of the architect."
The carved panels on either side of the oak reredos, come from Oberammergau. They are carved in deep relief in lime wood, and are the work of Hans Mayer, the son of Josef Mayer, who on three occasions, in the years 1870, 1880 and 1890, acted "Christus" in the Passion Play.
It was after a lecture on the Passion Play given in Lulworth in 1894, by Mr. Arthur Evans, that the villagers heard of the beautiful wood carving at Oberammergau and decided to start a fund to purchase some for the Church. The panels represent the Birth and Baptism of Jesus, the Crucifixion and the Supper at Emmaus. They were placed there in 1895.
The lectern stem and base contain woods from Europe, Asia, Africa and America. The eagle standing on its globe was executed by Messrs. Case, Strand, London.
The Rev. William Gildea was a keen amateur woodworker. Helped by Mr. Basil Sprague, who turned the wood pillars, capitals and bases, and by Mr. John Chaffey, he executed the altar, reredos woodwork, altar rails and the stem of the lectern.
The beautiful carving of the columns and corbels was done by Mr. Benjamin Grassby of Dorchester and was the gift of Mrs. Gildea. The capitals are of French Early Gothic foliage variety.
The illuminated texts over the arches of the Nave were painted by Mr. Thomas Randall of Hamboro’ Farm, who died a few weeks before completion of the work. Members of the Randall family were churchwardens for over 100 years. Mr. Matthew Randall had been chiefly instrumental in adding an aisle to the old Church, and took a great interest in the building of the new one. Mr. William Randall acted as churchwarden throughout the seventeen years of the Rev. W. Gildea's incumbency.
For several years before his death in 1981, Mr. P. J. Franklin , F.C.LO.B., gave generously of his time and expert knowledge; arranged for the complete redecoration of the church; and for the illuminated texts to be repainted by Mr. F. E. J. Chinchen of Lulworth Camp.
The first couple to be married in the new church, on 16th February, 1871, were James George Dorey, aged 23, and Maria Eliza Saunders, aged 24, grandparents of Mr. Walter Dorey, who is the last of the West Lulworth Doreys, a family whose names appear in the earliest registers from 1745. Unfortunately the older registers dating back to the sixteenth century were destroyed by fire.
The earliest mention of a curate is Sir Peter Rosse, 1553. Later names are: S. Haines, 1753; Benjamin Thomton, 1777; John Bale, 1789; Robert Goodrich, 1803; Franklin Tonkin, 1845; J. G. Fisher, 1847; Edward Dix Wood, 1850; Cornell P. West, 1852; Joseph Maskell, 1855; John Wynne, 1857; W. A. Bayley, 1861.
The continued list of Vicars is behind the Font.
The first, the Rev. William Gildea, was obviously a man of great character and many talents. His wife, five sons. and four daughters, together with his large staff at the Vicarage, centred village life around the Church. There is no doubt that he largely financed the building himself, with the aid of loans from Lord Eldon, the Rev. Eldon Bankes, and Nathaniel Bond, Esq.
The Rev. W. Percy Schuster and his family also had an outstanding influence, and provided the Church with most of its stained-glass windows and many essential adornments.
The Parish Church is now included in the list of buildings of special architectural or historic interest.
Tower
The battlemented tower was completed after the Church was consecrated. It was enlarged in 1888 at a cost of £600; two original bells were cast into one and four added in 1892 and a sixth in 1903. The bellringers were very active and the bells rang out to welcome important visitors, mark notable events, etc. In 1911, 1,260 changes were rung in 43 minutes! The weight of the bells varied from 11 cwts. to 4 cwts. They unfortunately proved too heavy for the Belfry, which was demolished and rebuilt in 1952-53, this time at a cost of £6,000. (See photographs in vestry.) The bells were all sold except the:
Tenor - "Through all the changing scenes of life"
III - "Where sweetly chimes this bell
O' er sea and hill and dell
May Jesus Christ be praised"
both dated 1892.
Without the enthusiasm of Lady Fripp, and much help from Captain Schreiber (see later), the tower might never have been rebuilt. Lady Fripp organized a large fête and raised money in many other ways. She also made many gifts to the Church. Sir Alfred and Lady Fripp came to the Mill House in 1911; later Weston was built for them (designed by Lutyens). His father and uncle, Alfred and George Fripp were both well-known artists and painted beautiful water-colours of the old cottages, the Mill pond, the Cove and the rocks of the spring, before the waterworks took away its charm. Sir Alfred, (surgeon to King Edward VII), and Lady Fripp were most popular in the village, and gladly attended to the health of any local sick children. They are both buried in the Churchyard. The close connection of the family with West Lulworth, happily still continues. The Jubilee Clock, made by Messrs. Potts & Co., of Leeds, at an estimated cost of £130, was added in 1897. The clock chimes were reset by Colonel Robert Hamblin, in memory of his wife, Mary, in 1972. He left a legacy of £1,000 to the Church, to which they were both very devoted and generous.
Stained-Glass Windows
The east window was given by Messrs. R. and J. A. Williams of Bridehead, near Dorchester. The west window was given anonymously in 1898, the stained glass is by Kempe and is exceptionally good - a close composition in sombre colours.
The north and south windows in the Sanctuary are in memory of the Rev. W. P. Schuster’s brother, Herbert L. Schuster, Esq. The window in the Chancel is in memory of his sister, Miss Fanny Emily Schuster, and another brother, the Rev. Edmond Vemon Schuster, Rector of Haughton Dale, Lancashire.
The south window and brass plate near the pulpit recall the Rev. John Henry Lonsdale. He was a keen fisherman, a friend of Alfred Fripp since their student days, and frequently officiated in the Church. He loved Lulworth and the little sailing ships which unloaded coal for the Castle and village at the old store in the Cove. Sometimes their anchors cut adrift and caused serious damage to the fishermen's nets, which at that time were hauled in from the mouth of the Cove to under Bindon Hill by eight men. This delightful window, and also payments for divers from Weymouth to remove anchors and other offending obstacles, were given by relatives and friends of this much-loved Dorset parson.
The other south window in the Nave, by A. C. Moore, is in memory of Isaac Fryer, Esq., who in gratitude for the recovery of health of his daughter in 1874, founded "The Fryer Trust" - for the distribution of coals, cash or clothing in the village at Christmas. Inflation, alas, has now made this Trust of little value. It is administered by the Parish Council. This same daughter, Mrs. Russell, when in Lulworth, lived with her crippled child at "Old Sea View" (now the Mill House). When the child died aged 14, the Rev. W. P. Schuster wrote of her as "One who in her short life, set a bright example of faith and hope and patience amid much bodily suffering".
The two north windows in the Nave are in memory of Maria Theresa Schuster, wife of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, whose memorial plaque is in the Chancel; and of Christopher John Claud Schuster, who was sadly killed in action only three months before the end of the First World War. Aged 19, he was the only son of Sir Claud Schuster, afterwards Baron of Ceme, who lived at Gatton Cottage (now Gatton House) and with his wife is buried in the Churchyard. Sir Claud was a nephew of the Rev. W. P. Schuster, and often read the lessons in the Church. The stained glass is beautiful and portrays St. George slaying the dragon, on the left side, and St. Christopher on the right.
Memorial Plaques
Chancel
John Wordsworth, Bishop of Salisbury, son of Bishop Christopher Wordsworth 'Man of Letters'. He officiated at services whenever he was staying at his seaside home, 'Bishop's Cottage', and was a great friend to everyone in the village. His daughter. Rose Salome, was christened in August, 1900 and his granddaughter, Rosa Jane Pelly, in April, 1931, in the Church. His wife is buried in the Churchyard. The plaque is composed of alabaster and opus sectile, bearing the Diocesan and Wordsworth Arms, executed by Messrs. Powell, Whitefriars, London.
William Percy Schuster, Vicar for 27 years until his death. He and his wife, mother, brothers and sister were devoted to the Church, and their generosity is recorded in many of the old Parish Magazines. He and his wife and his sister, Fanny Emily, are buried in the Churchyard. In 1925 the endowment was increased by £1,000 in his memory, by his wife, Maria Theresa. The plaque is surrounded by alabaster, carved with acoms and oak leaves.
Walter Henry Chaffey. He was a faithful verger and churchwarden for 25 years and a member of the choir for 71 years. Quiet, modest and efficient, keenly interested in ecclesiastical law and anything to do with the Church, he never failed in his duty to it. He came from a long line of Lulworth Chaffeys and many of his family still live in East and West Lulworth. He is buried in the Churchyard.
Nave
The Rev. Benjamin Bodycombe (small crucifix above the pulpit). A widower, he married his second wife in the Church. He suffered much ill-health and died after five years as Vicar, and he and his wife are buried in the Churchyard. He took a great interest in the music, and in young people.
Mary Frances Urquhart. Her husband Major Charles James Urquhart built "Oswalds" (now Bincleaves) and after he died she lived at Spring Cottage.
Florence Rose Mary Robson was daughter of the above and wife of Colonel Henry Denne Robson. They also lived at Oswalds. "She was the life and soul of the village," says one who knew her.
Katherine Williams, wife of Regtl, Quartermaster Sergt. William Henry Williams, son of Robert Williams, one of the fishermen of West Lulworth. Her son by her first marriage was:
John Beare, Lance-Corporal, R.E., who died, aged 25, as a prisoner-of-war in Japan in the Second World War.
North Aisle
William Tucker of St. Andrews, another faithful churchwarden for many years in the time of the Rev. W. P. Schuster. He was a popular local farmer, and is buried in the Churchyard.
Jack Stewart Newcombe, Pilot Officer, R.A.F., aged 21, and his brother Gordon Clifford Newcombe, Lieut., R.N., H.M.S. Glorious, aged 25. Both killed flying. Their mother and step-father, Major and Mrs. Campbell, lived at 8 Coastguard Cottages. They were "Two fine young men".
Lychgate
Captain Frederick Godfrey Schreiber, R. N. (Retd.), built the Lychgate in memory of his wife, Agnes Winifred, who died in 1949. It was dedicated by the Bishop of Salisbury in 1953 and is built of oak with a tiled roof. His own name is now inscribed there too. He died in 1966 after living at Stair House for 33 years. Capt Schreiber was a very generous benefactor, he donated £500 to the rebuilding of the Tower, with which work he was much involved. He gave £1,000 4% Consols to form "The Schreiber Trust" in 1954, which is primarily for the general upkeep of the Churchyard, particularly the Lychgate and the Schreiber grave and monument. The brass altar cross was another gift in memory of his wife.
Churchyard
There are many interesting people buried in the Churchyard, villagers both well-known and lesser-known, who all played their part in shaping the life of West Lulworth.
Sittingbourne is a large town up from Faversham on the A2, or the old high road.
Today it is post industrial, mostly, with a one way system and out of town big box stores.
I have seen little of worth in the town when we have passed through. So, Milton Regis was expected to be more of the same.
But the ancient borough is full of fine old timber-framed houses, narrow streets, but beyond them there are endless estates full of identical houses.
Holy Trinity sits the other side of a busy junction, at the end of a short lane, now used mostly by people visiting the large playing field so their dogs don't crap in their owner's back gardens.
Or so it seemed.
Urban churches are rarely open for causal visits, so it proved this time. The young folks paiting the parish offices didn't have a key for the church, so could not help.
So I made do with snapping the outside of the church and large collection of ancient gravestones, one I learn was connected to the Gunpowder Plot.
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The massive 14th century tower grabs attention immediately, but just by the door is a most mysterious headstone which commemorates a man killed by a rocket at an early Guy Fawke`s celebration. Inside, the south aisle is almost as wide as the nave and has a rare rood loft staircase that runs in the thickness of the wall rather than up a spiral staircase. There is little stained glass but the east window, by the firm of Ward and Hughes is rather a masterpiece, with most of the subjects being real portraits – especially the figures of St George and St Uriel. An inscription nearby tells the whole story. At the junction of nave and chancel is a rare benefactions board which is carved to look like a memorial – look out for Faith Hope and Charity. The medieval vestry at the north east corner has an original shuttered window – a rare survival indeed, whilst under the huge tower is a benefactions board recording gifts to dredgermen`s widows. Now you don’t find them very often!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Milton+Regis
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MILTON,
OR, more properly, Middleton, lies the next parish north-westward from Sittingborne, last described, and seems to have taken its name from the Saxon Midletun, a name denoting its situation in the middle part of this county.
THE PARISH of Milton is most of it situated on low flat ground, and extends from the high London road as far as the waters of the Swale northward, adjoining to which, the marshes in this parish are both fresh and salt, of a very large extent. In the southern or upper part of the parish, next to the London road, is a small hamlet, called from the soil Chalkwell, in which there are two modern-built houses of the better sort, the lower most of which has a large tan-yard belonging to it; near it there rise some springs, which fill several large ponds, the reservoirs for a corn mill below them, after which they run along the east skirts of the town, which are a continued swamp of watry bogs, into the creek below. The town, antiently called the king's town of Milton, as being part of the antient possessions of the crown, is situated about half a mile from the high London road, at the eastern boundary of the parish, the greatest part of it on the knole of a hill, extending mostly down the east side of it to the head of the creek, which flows north-westward from hence, and at two miles distance, after several meandrings, joins the waters of the Swale. It has a very indifferent character for health, owing both to the badness of the water, and the gross unwholesome air to which it is subject from its watry situation; nor is it in any degree pleasant, the narrow streets, or rather lanes in it, being badly paved, and for the most part inhabited by seafaring persons, fishermen, and oyster-dredgers.
Its commodious situation for navigation near the Swale, to which the town then stood much nearer than it does at present, caused it to be frequented by the Danes, in their piratical excursions into this county, particularly in 893, these pirates, who had been ravaging. France and the Low Countries, being distressed for subsistence, turned their thoughts towards England, for the sake of plunder: for this purpose, with one of their fleets, they sailed up to Apledore, and with the other, consisting of about eighty ships, under the command of Hastings their captain, they entered the mouth of the river Thames, and landing in this parish built themselves a fortress or castle here. Asserius writes, anno 892, Hastengus fecit sibi firmissimum oppidum apud Middeltunam. Sax. Chron. anno 893, interpreted, Arcem extruxit. Simon Dunelm, coll. 151, H. Huntingdon, lib. 5, Florence of Worcester, p. 595, and Chron. Malros, Fecit munitionem. Spelman, in his Life of Alfred, says, Dani castra validis operibus communiunt. This fortress was erected at a place called Kemsleydowne, in the marshes, about midway between the town and the mouth of the creek, the scite of which is still visible, and being overgrown with wood and bushes, has obtained the name of Castberough. (fn. 1) It is of a square form, and is surrounded by a high bank thrown up, and a broad ditch. There is a raised causeway, very plainly to be seen, leading from it towards the seashore. From this fortress they not only made their excursions and plundered the neighbouring country, but secured themselves against such power as the king might send against them.
This town of Milton being part of the royal demesnes, was a cause of its being destroyed by earl Godwin, who being at variance with Edward the Consessor, came here, with a large force, in the year 1052, and burned this town, then of good condition, to the ground; and afterwards ransacked and spoiled many other of the king's estates throughout the county. After which it does not seem to have been ever restored to its former state.
Its condition in the reign of queen Elizabeth may be seen by the survey, made by her order in the 8th year of her reign; by which it appears, that there were then in this town, houses inhabited one hundred and thirty, persons lacking habitations six, landing-places four, one called Fluddmill keye, appertaining to Sir Henry Cheney; the second, Whitlock's key, now the Town key; the third, Reynolds's, now Page's key; and the fourth, Hamond key, appertaining to Thomas Hayward, now Huggins's key; ships and vessels twenty-six, of which twenty were under ten tons; the rest were of twelve, sixteen, and twenty tons; and persons occupied in trade and fishing twenty four.
Since which the town of Milton has considerably increased, as well in the number of its houses and inhabitants, as in its wealth and trade. The number of houses at present is about two hundred and thirty, which are supposed to contain about twelve hundred inhabitants.
The trade of it chiefly consists in the traffic carrying on weekly at the four wharfs in it, where the corn and commodities of the neighbouring country are shipped for London, and goods of every sort brought back again in return; and in the fishery for oysters, a further account of which will be given hereafter. Besides which, the several mills here do not contribute a little to the benefit of this place; four of these are employed in the grinding of corn, and dressing it into flour; and the fifth, called Perrywinckle mill, was some few years ago applied to the manufacturing of pearl-barley, which used to be imported from Holland; and it was supposed to be the only mill in the kingdom where that article was brought to the same perfection as in Holland, but this manufacture for want of due encouragement has been since discontinued.
The town of Milton is governed by a a portreve, who is chosen annually on St. James's day, by the inhabitants of the parish paying church and poor's rates; whose office is, to oversee the market, and preserve good order within the town, and to execute the office of clerk of the market in all matters, within the hundreds of Milton and Marden; he likewise sets the price of all things which come to the keys, or any other creek within the hundred, being such things as head officers in other towns may set the prices on
The market, which is a very plentiful one for all sorts of butchers meat, poultry, &c. is held on a Saturday weekly, at the shambles, in the center of the town. Adjoining to them is the market-house, having a clock, and a bell, which is rung not only for the purpose of the market, but for the calling of the parshioners to church, for funerals, and for occasional parish meetings. At a small distance northward from the shambles is a king of court-house, being a very low old-timbered tenement, where the courts of the manor are kept, and other meetings held; at other times it is made use of as the school house; underneath it is the town prison.
The school is endowed with the annual sum of nine pounds, an account of which may be seen hereafter, among the charitable benefactions to this parish. The master is appointed by the minister and churchwardens. Nine or ten poor boys are taught to read and write in it.
There is a fair, which used to be held on the feast of St. Margaret, July 13, now, by the alteration of the stile, on the 24th of that month, and the two following days.
The lands in this parish, near the town, and especially on the lower or northern part of it, are very rich and sertile. Adjoining to these are the marshes, which extend to the waters of the Swale. Below the hill westward there is another streamlet, which having turned a mill near the vicarage, runs on not far distant from the church, and court-lodge, situated about half a mile northward below the present town, near which the former one destroyed by Earl Godwin is supposed to have once stood.
In the north-west part of this parish, among the marshes, there is a decoy for wild fowl, the only one, that I know of, in this part of the county. The fowl caught in it, are much esteemed for their size and flavor. Great numbers of them are weekly taken and sent up to London.
In this parish, at a small distance northward from Bobbing-place, is a farm called the Quintin farm, which shews that diversion to have been formerly used in it. (fn. 2)
THE FISHERY belonging to the manor and hundred of Milton is of very considerable account. It seems to have been granted by king John, by his charter, in his 7th year, to the abbot and convent of Faversham, by the description of the fisheries of Milton, which the men of Seasalter then held by the yearly rent of twenty shillings, payable at his manor of Milton, and by doing therefrom the customs and service which were wont to be to it.
King Edward III. in his 4th year, confirmed this grant, as did king Henry VI. and this fishery remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was surrendered up into the king's hands, together with all its possessions.
After which, the fee simple of this fishery remained with the manor in the hands of the crown, till the 10th year of king Charles I. when it was passed away, with it, by the words recited in the grant then made of the manor, to Sir Ed. Browne and Christ. Favell, as will be more fully mentioned below; after which, James Herbert, esq. coming into the possession of it, by the settlement of it from his father Philip, earl of Pembroke, he in the 26th year of king Charles II. obtained a fresh grant of this fishery, against which there was a quo warranto brought in the reign of queen Anne, on a petition of the fishermen of Rochester and Stroud, to shew by what authority they, the grantees, kept courts within their manor of Milton, and restrained the fishermen of those and the adjacent towns, from fishing and dredging for oysters within this hundred and manor: but on a trial had at bar, a verdict was given in his favor. Since which it has continued down, in like manner as the manor of Milton, to the right hon. Philip, viscount Wenman, and Mrs. Anne Herbert, who are at this time proprietors of this fishery, together with the manor.
The company of Fishermen, or Dredgers, of this fishery, hold it by lease from the owners of the manor, at the yearly rent of one hundred pounds and four bushels of oysters. They are governed by their particular officers, under certain rules or bye-laws, made by antient custom at the court baron of the manor. There are now about one hundred and forty freemen belonging to it.
The oysters produced from these grounds, within the limits of this fishery, are usually called Milton Natives, and are esteemed the finest and richest flavored of any in Europe. They are supposed to be the same that Juvenal particularly describes, in his fourth satire, as being reckoned a delicacy even in his time, in these words, satire iv. l. 144:
— Rutupinove edita fundo Ostrea, callebat primo deprendere morsu.
The sum usually returned for these oysters is from 3000l. to 7000l. per annum. The Dutch have been supposed by many, to have engrossed this article of luxury; but they expend but a very small part of the above sums, and sometimes none, for the space of seven years together.
IN THE WESTERN PART of this parish there are several hundred acres of coppice-wood, which are adjoining to a much larger tract of the like sort, extending southward almost as far as Binbury pound, on the west side of Stockbury-valley, for the space of near five miles. These woods, especially those in and near this parish, are noted for the great plenty of chesnut stubs interspersed promiscuously throughout them, which, from the quick and strait growth of this king of wood, makes them very valuable. These are so numerous in them, as to give name to most of these woods near Milton, which, besides their particular names to each of them, are usually called by the general name of Chesnut-woods. And in the presentment made of the customs of the manor of Milton in 1575, it is mentioned, that the occupiers of the three mills holden of the manor should gather yearly for the lord of it nine bushels of chestenottes, in Chestnott wood, or pay eighteen-pence by the year to the queen, who then had the manor in her own hands, and was possessed of three hundred acres of chesnut wood within this hundred.
¶These chesnuts are undoubtedly the indigenuous growth of Britain, planted by the hand of nature. They are interspersed throughout the whole tract, without any form or regularity, and are many of them, by their appearance, of great age; and by numbers of them, which now seem almost worn out and perishing, being made use of as the termini or boundaries, as well of private property as of parishes, it is plain they were first pitched upon, in preference to others, for that purpose, as being the largest and most antient ones of any then existing; and as these are hardly ever cut down or altered, they must have stood sacred to this use from the first introduction of private property into this kingdom, and the first division of it into parishes. Four letters were printed in 1771, after having been read before the Royal Society, two of which were written by Dr. Ducarel, and the other two by Mr. Thorpe and Mr. Hasted, to prove that chesnut-trees were the indigenous growth of this kingdom, in answer to an idea of the hon. Daines Barrington, who had a wish to establish a contrary opinion.
DR. PLOT says, that Herba Britannica, which Twyne and Johnson think to be bistort, Trisolium acetosum, or Oxys; Empetron, quæ est petrafindula Britanniæ prope peculiaris, and Crocus, were found at Milton by Scribonius Largus, when he came into Britain with the emperor Claudius. And he further says, that Crocus sativus, saffron, was heretofore sown and gathered (as now at Walden, in Essex) at Milton, and quotes for his authority, a manuscript rental of the manor of Milton, in the library of Christ-church, Canterbury.
MILTON is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Sittingborne.
The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It is a large handsome building, consisting of two isles and two chancels, the southernmost of which belongs to the manor of Northwood. It has a well built tower at the west end, in which are five bells. In this church, among others, were formerly the arms of Barry, Diggs, Finch, of the Five Ports, of Norwood and Norton, with their several crests, trophies, and banners; of Marten quartering Boteler; one coat, Barry, argent and azure, on a canton of the first, a bird of the second; Argent, three bends azure, within a bordure, eight mullets; Gules, a fess or, between three mullets, argent; and in one of the windows, a man kneeling, with a coat of arms, Six lions rampant, three and three, and underneath, Orate paia Guliel Savage Armigi.
Mauricius ap John, rector of St. George's, in Exeter, was buried in the choir of this church, as appears by his will, anno 1499.
In the year 1070, being the 5th year of his reign, William the Conqueror gave to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, the church of Middelton, and the tenths of all the products accruing from that manor, and the tenths of all its appurtenances, of the land, wood, meadows, and water, excepting the tenths of honey, and rent paid in money. (fn. 12)
Pope Lucius XI. in 1144, at the petition of abbot Hugh de Trottesclive, confirmed the annual pension of ten marcs from this church to that abbey.
In 1168, the conventual church of St. Augustine was the greatest part of it burnt; on which account this church was allotted to the sacristy there, for the repair of it. (fn. 13) But they did not keep it long, for in 1178, at the king's instance, they gave it up, and lost all property both in the church, and the advowson of it. A composition was entered into between the archbishop and the abbot in 1182, concerning the privileges and exemptions of the latter; when it was agreed, that the archdeacon, or his official, should receive his accustomed dues and procurations from the churches of St. Augustine, excepting those of Minster, Northborne, and Chistelet, and from this church likewise, when the monks should again get possession of the appropriation of it.
Four years after which, the abbot demised to the prioress of St. Sexburg of Shepey, the tiches which his monastery possessed, in right of this church, in Bobbing, at the yearly rent of ten shillings, on condition that all housekeepers, which should be on the estates from which they arose, should yearly repair to this the mother church, with their oblations, on Christmas-day, the Purification, and Easter day. And in 1188, the abbot demised to the prioress there, the tenths of Westlonde, within her parish, for the rent of fourteen shillings, payable yearly to the sacrist of St. Augustine.
About the year 1198, the abbot and convent recovered this church, which was then become vacant by the death of one Franco, the person to whom they had given it up, at the instance of king Henry. But they had kept it but a small time, before the archbishop disturbed them in their possession of it. However, by the mediation of mutual friends, and at the king's request, that he would not molest them in their appropriation of it; he out of respect to the king, ratified this church to them, to be possessed by them for ever. (fn. 14)
There was a pension of forty shillings payably yearly from this church, with the chapel belonging to it, to the above monastery, which, with the other pensions from their several churches, was given up by agreement in 1242, for a compensation out of the profits of the church of Preston.
The abbot and convent, among the extensive privileges from the papal see, had obtained an exemption from all archiepiscopal authority, and about the year 1295 made an institution of several new deanries, and apportioned the several churches belonging to his monastery, to each of them, according to their vicinity; one of these was the deanry of Lenham, in which this church was included. This raised great contests with the several archbishops, and after more than five years altercation, the abbot was stripped of these exemptions, and was declared, by the pope's bull, to be subject to the archbishop's jurisdiction, in like manner as before; which entirely dissolved these new deanries, and that of Lenham among them. (fn. 15)
Notwithstanding the abbot and convent seem to have held the appropriation of this church almost from held the appropriation of this church almost from the first grant of it, and though there had been vicars instituted to it long before this time, for Robert de Wikes, who stiles himself vicar of Middelton, by his deed in 1247, granted seven deywerks of land, with the houses built on it, for the habitation of the vicar of Middelton, for the time being; and the abbot and convent had in 1286, assigned a portion for the maintenance of the vicar here; yet there does not appear to have been any regular endowment of a vicarage to it, till the reign of king Edward III. when archbishop Stratford, in 1345, anno 20 Edward III. by his instrument, decreed, that the vicar of the church of Middelton, and his successors, should have the usual mansion of the vicarage, with the garden adjoining to it, together with one acre of the glebe of the same; and that he should have, in the name of the vicarage, all manner of oblations in the church of Middelton, and in all places, situated within the bounds and limits or titheable places of it; and that they should have in the name of the vicarage, all tithes of sylva cædua, wool, lambs, calves, pigs, ducks, geese, swans, pidgeons, cheese, milk-meats, herbage, apples, pears, and other fruit, growing in gardens and orchards, pulse, flax, hemp, eggs, rushes, merchandizes, and of all mills built, or which might in future be built, within the bounds and limits or titheable places of the church, and all other small tithes whatsoever belonging to it, and all legacies left in future to it, which the rectors or vicars of it might of right or custom take; also, that the vicars, in right of the vicarage, should have of the religious, the annual pension of 4s. (fn. 16) sterling, one seam or quarter of corn, and three quarters or seams of barley, on the feast of St. Michael, at Middelton, by them to be yearly paid, on pain of the sequestration of the fruits and profits of the church, belonging to the religious, to be laid on as often and whenever they should cease in the payment of the pension or barley, or should not pay either of them in the time above-mentioned.
But that the vicars should undergo the burthen of serving by themselves, or some other fit priest, the church in divine services, in the finding of one lamp, to burn before the altar of St. Mary there, and the ministering of bread, wine, lights, and other things, which should be necessary for the celebration of divine rights in the church. The burthen likewise of the payment of tenths and other impositions, whenever they might be imposed on the English church, or incumbent on the church, for the taxation of twelve marcs, beyond the burthens allotted to the religious underneath, they should undergo at their own costs and expences.
But the burthen of the reparation and rebuilding of the chancel of the church, both within and without, and also the finding and repairing of books and vestments, and ornaments of the church, which were wont or ought of right or custom, to be found and repaired by the rectors of churches, and all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, incumbent on the church, the religious should undergo and acknowledge for ever, &c. (fn. 17)
The church and vicarage, after this, remained part of the possessions of the monastery, till the final dissolution of it, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was, with all its revenues, surrendered up into the king's hands, who by his dotation-charter, in his 33d year, settled both the appropriation of this church, and the advowson of the vicarage, among other premises, on his new-founded dean and chapter of Christchurch, Canterbury, with whom the inheritance of the parsonage still remains, the interest in the lease of it being now in the heirs of John Cockin Sole, esq. deceased, but the advowson of the vicarage the dean and chapter retain in their own hands, and are the present patrons of it.
The vicarage of Milton is valued in the king's books at 13l. 2s. 6d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 6s. 3d.
¶In 1578, there were here, dwelling-houses on hundred and eight, communicants three hundred and seventy-four. In 1640 this vicarage was valued at eighty pounds. Communicants five hundred and twenty-nine.
The antient annual pension of four shillings, one quarter of wheat, and three quarters of barley, stipulated to be paid by the religious as before-mentioned, still continues to be paid by the lessee of the parsonage, by the covenants of his lease.
The agreement made between the prior of the brethren of the hospital of St. John of Jersalem and the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, about king Henry the IId.'s reign, that whenever their chapel of Rodmersham should be dedicated, and the cemetery consecrated, they would diminish by it none of the mother church of Middleton's rights; has already been more fully mentioned in the account of that parish before. (fn. 18)
Sittingbourne is a large town up from Faversham on the A2, or the old high road.
Today it is post industrial, mostly, with a one way system and out of town big box stores.
I have seen little of worth in the town when we have passed through. So, Milton Regis was expected to be more of the same.
But the ancient borough is full of fine old timber-framed houses, narrow streets, but beyond them there are endless estates full of identical houses.
Holy Trinity sits the other side of a busy junction, at the end of a short lane, now used mostly by people visiting the large playing field so their dogs don't crap in their owner's back gardens.
Or so it seemed.
Urban churches are rarely open for causal visits, so it proved this time. The young folks paiting the parish offices didn't have a key for the church, so could not help.
So I made do with snapping the outside of the church and large collection of ancient gravestones, one I learn was connected to the Gunpowder Plot.
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The massive 14th century tower grabs attention immediately, but just by the door is a most mysterious headstone which commemorates a man killed by a rocket at an early Guy Fawke`s celebration. Inside, the south aisle is almost as wide as the nave and has a rare rood loft staircase that runs in the thickness of the wall rather than up a spiral staircase. There is little stained glass but the east window, by the firm of Ward and Hughes is rather a masterpiece, with most of the subjects being real portraits – especially the figures of St George and St Uriel. An inscription nearby tells the whole story. At the junction of nave and chancel is a rare benefactions board which is carved to look like a memorial – look out for Faith Hope and Charity. The medieval vestry at the north east corner has an original shuttered window – a rare survival indeed, whilst under the huge tower is a benefactions board recording gifts to dredgermen`s widows. Now you don’t find them very often!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Milton+Regis
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MILTON,
OR, more properly, Middleton, lies the next parish north-westward from Sittingborne, last described, and seems to have taken its name from the Saxon Midletun, a name denoting its situation in the middle part of this county.
THE PARISH of Milton is most of it situated on low flat ground, and extends from the high London road as far as the waters of the Swale northward, adjoining to which, the marshes in this parish are both fresh and salt, of a very large extent. In the southern or upper part of the parish, next to the London road, is a small hamlet, called from the soil Chalkwell, in which there are two modern-built houses of the better sort, the lower most of which has a large tan-yard belonging to it; near it there rise some springs, which fill several large ponds, the reservoirs for a corn mill below them, after which they run along the east skirts of the town, which are a continued swamp of watry bogs, into the creek below. The town, antiently called the king's town of Milton, as being part of the antient possessions of the crown, is situated about half a mile from the high London road, at the eastern boundary of the parish, the greatest part of it on the knole of a hill, extending mostly down the east side of it to the head of the creek, which flows north-westward from hence, and at two miles distance, after several meandrings, joins the waters of the Swale. It has a very indifferent character for health, owing both to the badness of the water, and the gross unwholesome air to which it is subject from its watry situation; nor is it in any degree pleasant, the narrow streets, or rather lanes in it, being badly paved, and for the most part inhabited by seafaring persons, fishermen, and oyster-dredgers.
Its commodious situation for navigation near the Swale, to which the town then stood much nearer than it does at present, caused it to be frequented by the Danes, in their piratical excursions into this county, particularly in 893, these pirates, who had been ravaging. France and the Low Countries, being distressed for subsistence, turned their thoughts towards England, for the sake of plunder: for this purpose, with one of their fleets, they sailed up to Apledore, and with the other, consisting of about eighty ships, under the command of Hastings their captain, they entered the mouth of the river Thames, and landing in this parish built themselves a fortress or castle here. Asserius writes, anno 892, Hastengus fecit sibi firmissimum oppidum apud Middeltunam. Sax. Chron. anno 893, interpreted, Arcem extruxit. Simon Dunelm, coll. 151, H. Huntingdon, lib. 5, Florence of Worcester, p. 595, and Chron. Malros, Fecit munitionem. Spelman, in his Life of Alfred, says, Dani castra validis operibus communiunt. This fortress was erected at a place called Kemsleydowne, in the marshes, about midway between the town and the mouth of the creek, the scite of which is still visible, and being overgrown with wood and bushes, has obtained the name of Castberough. (fn. 1) It is of a square form, and is surrounded by a high bank thrown up, and a broad ditch. There is a raised causeway, very plainly to be seen, leading from it towards the seashore. From this fortress they not only made their excursions and plundered the neighbouring country, but secured themselves against such power as the king might send against them.
This town of Milton being part of the royal demesnes, was a cause of its being destroyed by earl Godwin, who being at variance with Edward the Consessor, came here, with a large force, in the year 1052, and burned this town, then of good condition, to the ground; and afterwards ransacked and spoiled many other of the king's estates throughout the county. After which it does not seem to have been ever restored to its former state.
Its condition in the reign of queen Elizabeth may be seen by the survey, made by her order in the 8th year of her reign; by which it appears, that there were then in this town, houses inhabited one hundred and thirty, persons lacking habitations six, landing-places four, one called Fluddmill keye, appertaining to Sir Henry Cheney; the second, Whitlock's key, now the Town key; the third, Reynolds's, now Page's key; and the fourth, Hamond key, appertaining to Thomas Hayward, now Huggins's key; ships and vessels twenty-six, of which twenty were under ten tons; the rest were of twelve, sixteen, and twenty tons; and persons occupied in trade and fishing twenty four.
Since which the town of Milton has considerably increased, as well in the number of its houses and inhabitants, as in its wealth and trade. The number of houses at present is about two hundred and thirty, which are supposed to contain about twelve hundred inhabitants.
The trade of it chiefly consists in the traffic carrying on weekly at the four wharfs in it, where the corn and commodities of the neighbouring country are shipped for London, and goods of every sort brought back again in return; and in the fishery for oysters, a further account of which will be given hereafter. Besides which, the several mills here do not contribute a little to the benefit of this place; four of these are employed in the grinding of corn, and dressing it into flour; and the fifth, called Perrywinckle mill, was some few years ago applied to the manufacturing of pearl-barley, which used to be imported from Holland; and it was supposed to be the only mill in the kingdom where that article was brought to the same perfection as in Holland, but this manufacture for want of due encouragement has been since discontinued.
The town of Milton is governed by a a portreve, who is chosen annually on St. James's day, by the inhabitants of the parish paying church and poor's rates; whose office is, to oversee the market, and preserve good order within the town, and to execute the office of clerk of the market in all matters, within the hundreds of Milton and Marden; he likewise sets the price of all things which come to the keys, or any other creek within the hundred, being such things as head officers in other towns may set the prices on
The market, which is a very plentiful one for all sorts of butchers meat, poultry, &c. is held on a Saturday weekly, at the shambles, in the center of the town. Adjoining to them is the market-house, having a clock, and a bell, which is rung not only for the purpose of the market, but for the calling of the parshioners to church, for funerals, and for occasional parish meetings. At a small distance northward from the shambles is a king of court-house, being a very low old-timbered tenement, where the courts of the manor are kept, and other meetings held; at other times it is made use of as the school house; underneath it is the town prison.
The school is endowed with the annual sum of nine pounds, an account of which may be seen hereafter, among the charitable benefactions to this parish. The master is appointed by the minister and churchwardens. Nine or ten poor boys are taught to read and write in it.
There is a fair, which used to be held on the feast of St. Margaret, July 13, now, by the alteration of the stile, on the 24th of that month, and the two following days.
The lands in this parish, near the town, and especially on the lower or northern part of it, are very rich and sertile. Adjoining to these are the marshes, which extend to the waters of the Swale. Below the hill westward there is another streamlet, which having turned a mill near the vicarage, runs on not far distant from the church, and court-lodge, situated about half a mile northward below the present town, near which the former one destroyed by Earl Godwin is supposed to have once stood.
In the north-west part of this parish, among the marshes, there is a decoy for wild fowl, the only one, that I know of, in this part of the county. The fowl caught in it, are much esteemed for their size and flavor. Great numbers of them are weekly taken and sent up to London.
In this parish, at a small distance northward from Bobbing-place, is a farm called the Quintin farm, which shews that diversion to have been formerly used in it. (fn. 2)
THE FISHERY belonging to the manor and hundred of Milton is of very considerable account. It seems to have been granted by king John, by his charter, in his 7th year, to the abbot and convent of Faversham, by the description of the fisheries of Milton, which the men of Seasalter then held by the yearly rent of twenty shillings, payable at his manor of Milton, and by doing therefrom the customs and service which were wont to be to it.
King Edward III. in his 4th year, confirmed this grant, as did king Henry VI. and this fishery remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was surrendered up into the king's hands, together with all its possessions.
After which, the fee simple of this fishery remained with the manor in the hands of the crown, till the 10th year of king Charles I. when it was passed away, with it, by the words recited in the grant then made of the manor, to Sir Ed. Browne and Christ. Favell, as will be more fully mentioned below; after which, James Herbert, esq. coming into the possession of it, by the settlement of it from his father Philip, earl of Pembroke, he in the 26th year of king Charles II. obtained a fresh grant of this fishery, against which there was a quo warranto brought in the reign of queen Anne, on a petition of the fishermen of Rochester and Stroud, to shew by what authority they, the grantees, kept courts within their manor of Milton, and restrained the fishermen of those and the adjacent towns, from fishing and dredging for oysters within this hundred and manor: but on a trial had at bar, a verdict was given in his favor. Since which it has continued down, in like manner as the manor of Milton, to the right hon. Philip, viscount Wenman, and Mrs. Anne Herbert, who are at this time proprietors of this fishery, together with the manor.
The company of Fishermen, or Dredgers, of this fishery, hold it by lease from the owners of the manor, at the yearly rent of one hundred pounds and four bushels of oysters. They are governed by their particular officers, under certain rules or bye-laws, made by antient custom at the court baron of the manor. There are now about one hundred and forty freemen belonging to it.
The oysters produced from these grounds, within the limits of this fishery, are usually called Milton Natives, and are esteemed the finest and richest flavored of any in Europe. They are supposed to be the same that Juvenal particularly describes, in his fourth satire, as being reckoned a delicacy even in his time, in these words, satire iv. l. 144:
— Rutupinove edita fundo Ostrea, callebat primo deprendere morsu.
The sum usually returned for these oysters is from 3000l. to 7000l. per annum. The Dutch have been supposed by many, to have engrossed this article of luxury; but they expend but a very small part of the above sums, and sometimes none, for the space of seven years together.
IN THE WESTERN PART of this parish there are several hundred acres of coppice-wood, which are adjoining to a much larger tract of the like sort, extending southward almost as far as Binbury pound, on the west side of Stockbury-valley, for the space of near five miles. These woods, especially those in and near this parish, are noted for the great plenty of chesnut stubs interspersed promiscuously throughout them, which, from the quick and strait growth of this king of wood, makes them very valuable. These are so numerous in them, as to give name to most of these woods near Milton, which, besides their particular names to each of them, are usually called by the general name of Chesnut-woods. And in the presentment made of the customs of the manor of Milton in 1575, it is mentioned, that the occupiers of the three mills holden of the manor should gather yearly for the lord of it nine bushels of chestenottes, in Chestnott wood, or pay eighteen-pence by the year to the queen, who then had the manor in her own hands, and was possessed of three hundred acres of chesnut wood within this hundred.
¶These chesnuts are undoubtedly the indigenuous growth of Britain, planted by the hand of nature. They are interspersed throughout the whole tract, without any form or regularity, and are many of them, by their appearance, of great age; and by numbers of them, which now seem almost worn out and perishing, being made use of as the termini or boundaries, as well of private property as of parishes, it is plain they were first pitched upon, in preference to others, for that purpose, as being the largest and most antient ones of any then existing; and as these are hardly ever cut down or altered, they must have stood sacred to this use from the first introduction of private property into this kingdom, and the first division of it into parishes. Four letters were printed in 1771, after having been read before the Royal Society, two of which were written by Dr. Ducarel, and the other two by Mr. Thorpe and Mr. Hasted, to prove that chesnut-trees were the indigenous growth of this kingdom, in answer to an idea of the hon. Daines Barrington, who had a wish to establish a contrary opinion.
DR. PLOT says, that Herba Britannica, which Twyne and Johnson think to be bistort, Trisolium acetosum, or Oxys; Empetron, quæ est petrafindula Britanniæ prope peculiaris, and Crocus, were found at Milton by Scribonius Largus, when he came into Britain with the emperor Claudius. And he further says, that Crocus sativus, saffron, was heretofore sown and gathered (as now at Walden, in Essex) at Milton, and quotes for his authority, a manuscript rental of the manor of Milton, in the library of Christ-church, Canterbury.
MILTON is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Sittingborne.
The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It is a large handsome building, consisting of two isles and two chancels, the southernmost of which belongs to the manor of Northwood. It has a well built tower at the west end, in which are five bells. In this church, among others, were formerly the arms of Barry, Diggs, Finch, of the Five Ports, of Norwood and Norton, with their several crests, trophies, and banners; of Marten quartering Boteler; one coat, Barry, argent and azure, on a canton of the first, a bird of the second; Argent, three bends azure, within a bordure, eight mullets; Gules, a fess or, between three mullets, argent; and in one of the windows, a man kneeling, with a coat of arms, Six lions rampant, three and three, and underneath, Orate paia Guliel Savage Armigi.
Mauricius ap John, rector of St. George's, in Exeter, was buried in the choir of this church, as appears by his will, anno 1499.
In the year 1070, being the 5th year of his reign, William the Conqueror gave to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, the church of Middelton, and the tenths of all the products accruing from that manor, and the tenths of all its appurtenances, of the land, wood, meadows, and water, excepting the tenths of honey, and rent paid in money. (fn. 12)
Pope Lucius XI. in 1144, at the petition of abbot Hugh de Trottesclive, confirmed the annual pension of ten marcs from this church to that abbey.
In 1168, the conventual church of St. Augustine was the greatest part of it burnt; on which account this church was allotted to the sacristy there, for the repair of it. (fn. 13) But they did not keep it long, for in 1178, at the king's instance, they gave it up, and lost all property both in the church, and the advowson of it. A composition was entered into between the archbishop and the abbot in 1182, concerning the privileges and exemptions of the latter; when it was agreed, that the archdeacon, or his official, should receive his accustomed dues and procurations from the churches of St. Augustine, excepting those of Minster, Northborne, and Chistelet, and from this church likewise, when the monks should again get possession of the appropriation of it.
Four years after which, the abbot demised to the prioress of St. Sexburg of Shepey, the tiches which his monastery possessed, in right of this church, in Bobbing, at the yearly rent of ten shillings, on condition that all housekeepers, which should be on the estates from which they arose, should yearly repair to this the mother church, with their oblations, on Christmas-day, the Purification, and Easter day. And in 1188, the abbot demised to the prioress there, the tenths of Westlonde, within her parish, for the rent of fourteen shillings, payable yearly to the sacrist of St. Augustine.
About the year 1198, the abbot and convent recovered this church, which was then become vacant by the death of one Franco, the person to whom they had given it up, at the instance of king Henry. But they had kept it but a small time, before the archbishop disturbed them in their possession of it. However, by the mediation of mutual friends, and at the king's request, that he would not molest them in their appropriation of it; he out of respect to the king, ratified this church to them, to be possessed by them for ever. (fn. 14)
There was a pension of forty shillings payably yearly from this church, with the chapel belonging to it, to the above monastery, which, with the other pensions from their several churches, was given up by agreement in 1242, for a compensation out of the profits of the church of Preston.
The abbot and convent, among the extensive privileges from the papal see, had obtained an exemption from all archiepiscopal authority, and about the year 1295 made an institution of several new deanries, and apportioned the several churches belonging to his monastery, to each of them, according to their vicinity; one of these was the deanry of Lenham, in which this church was included. This raised great contests with the several archbishops, and after more than five years altercation, the abbot was stripped of these exemptions, and was declared, by the pope's bull, to be subject to the archbishop's jurisdiction, in like manner as before; which entirely dissolved these new deanries, and that of Lenham among them. (fn. 15)
Notwithstanding the abbot and convent seem to have held the appropriation of this church almost from held the appropriation of this church almost from the first grant of it, and though there had been vicars instituted to it long before this time, for Robert de Wikes, who stiles himself vicar of Middelton, by his deed in 1247, granted seven deywerks of land, with the houses built on it, for the habitation of the vicar of Middelton, for the time being; and the abbot and convent had in 1286, assigned a portion for the maintenance of the vicar here; yet there does not appear to have been any regular endowment of a vicarage to it, till the reign of king Edward III. when archbishop Stratford, in 1345, anno 20 Edward III. by his instrument, decreed, that the vicar of the church of Middelton, and his successors, should have the usual mansion of the vicarage, with the garden adjoining to it, together with one acre of the glebe of the same; and that he should have, in the name of the vicarage, all manner of oblations in the church of Middelton, and in all places, situated within the bounds and limits or titheable places of it; and that they should have in the name of the vicarage, all tithes of sylva cædua, wool, lambs, calves, pigs, ducks, geese, swans, pidgeons, cheese, milk-meats, herbage, apples, pears, and other fruit, growing in gardens and orchards, pulse, flax, hemp, eggs, rushes, merchandizes, and of all mills built, or which might in future be built, within the bounds and limits or titheable places of the church, and all other small tithes whatsoever belonging to it, and all legacies left in future to it, which the rectors or vicars of it might of right or custom take; also, that the vicars, in right of the vicarage, should have of the religious, the annual pension of 4s. (fn. 16) sterling, one seam or quarter of corn, and three quarters or seams of barley, on the feast of St. Michael, at Middelton, by them to be yearly paid, on pain of the sequestration of the fruits and profits of the church, belonging to the religious, to be laid on as often and whenever they should cease in the payment of the pension or barley, or should not pay either of them in the time above-mentioned.
But that the vicars should undergo the burthen of serving by themselves, or some other fit priest, the church in divine services, in the finding of one lamp, to burn before the altar of St. Mary there, and the ministering of bread, wine, lights, and other things, which should be necessary for the celebration of divine rights in the church. The burthen likewise of the payment of tenths and other impositions, whenever they might be imposed on the English church, or incumbent on the church, for the taxation of twelve marcs, beyond the burthens allotted to the religious underneath, they should undergo at their own costs and expences.
But the burthen of the reparation and rebuilding of the chancel of the church, both within and without, and also the finding and repairing of books and vestments, and ornaments of the church, which were wont or ought of right or custom, to be found and repaired by the rectors of churches, and all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, incumbent on the church, the religious should undergo and acknowledge for ever, &c. (fn. 17)
The church and vicarage, after this, remained part of the possessions of the monastery, till the final dissolution of it, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was, with all its revenues, surrendered up into the king's hands, who by his dotation-charter, in his 33d year, settled both the appropriation of this church, and the advowson of the vicarage, among other premises, on his new-founded dean and chapter of Christchurch, Canterbury, with whom the inheritance of the parsonage still remains, the interest in the lease of it being now in the heirs of John Cockin Sole, esq. deceased, but the advowson of the vicarage the dean and chapter retain in their own hands, and are the present patrons of it.
The vicarage of Milton is valued in the king's books at 13l. 2s. 6d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 6s. 3d.
¶In 1578, there were here, dwelling-houses on hundred and eight, communicants three hundred and seventy-four. In 1640 this vicarage was valued at eighty pounds. Communicants five hundred and twenty-nine.
The antient annual pension of four shillings, one quarter of wheat, and three quarters of barley, stipulated to be paid by the religious as before-mentioned, still continues to be paid by the lessee of the parsonage, by the covenants of his lease.
The agreement made between the prior of the brethren of the hospital of St. John of Jersalem and the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, about king Henry the IId.'s reign, that whenever their chapel of Rodmersham should be dedicated, and the cemetery consecrated, they would diminish by it none of the mother church of Middleton's rights; has already been more fully mentioned in the account of that parish before. (fn. 18)
I berated myself all the way from the banks of the Medway up the A249 to Sittingbourne, telling myself it would be a wasted trip as clearly the church wouldn't be open. I had, in fairness, just struck out three churches in a row that were closed.
I arrived at the church, found a place to park.
There were no ride and stride signs, nothing to indicate it was open.
More dark mutterings to myself.
As I walked to the churchyard, families were coming out of the park next door, workers were clearing ivy from the wall surrounding the churchyard.
The porch gate had a lock on it, as before, but closer inspection showed it to not actually locking the gate. I tried it and the gate opened.
The next door was also unlocked, so I went through, and was in a void before the inner door.
I pushed and it did not yield.
I opened the middle door to let some light in, found the latch, pushed down and the door swung open to reveal a huge space.
To the west was the interior of the huge tower, big enough to fit some churches in. No ropes now hang down to ring bells.
I could find no light switches, so had to make do with natural light, meaning some details might have been missed.
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The massive 14th century tower grabs attention immediately, but just by the door is a most mysterious headstone which commemorates a man killed by a rocket at an early Guy Fawke`s celebration. Inside, the south aisle is almost as wide as the nave and has a rare rood loft staircase that runs in the thickness of the wall rather than up a spiral staircase. There is little stained glass but the east window, by the firm of Ward and Hughes is rather a masterpiece, with most of the subjects being real portraits – especially the figures of St George and St Uriel. An inscription nearby tells the whole story. At the junction of nave and chancel is a rare benefactions board which is carved to look like a memorial – look out for Faith Hope and Charity. The medieval vestry at the north east corner has an original shuttered window – a rare survival indeed, whilst under the huge tower is a benefactions board recording gifts to dredgermen`s widows. Now you don’t find them very often!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Milton+Regis
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MILTON,
OR, more properly, Middleton, lies the next parish north-westward from Sittingborne, last described, and seems to have taken its name from the Saxon Midletun, a name denoting its situation in the middle part of this county.
THE PARISH of Milton is most of it situated on low flat ground, and extends from the high London road as far as the waters of the Swale northward, adjoining to which, the marshes in this parish are both fresh and salt, of a very large extent. In the southern or upper part of the parish, next to the London road, is a small hamlet, called from the soil Chalkwell, in which there are two modern-built houses of the better sort, the lower most of which has a large tan-yard belonging to it; near it there rise some springs, which fill several large ponds, the reservoirs for a corn mill below them, after which they run along the east skirts of the town, which are a continued swamp of watry bogs, into the creek below. The town, antiently called the king's town of Milton, as being part of the antient possessions of the crown, is situated about half a mile from the high London road, at the eastern boundary of the parish, the greatest part of it on the knole of a hill, extending mostly down the east side of it to the head of the creek, which flows north-westward from hence, and at two miles distance, after several meandrings, joins the waters of the Swale. It has a very indifferent character for health, owing both to the badness of the water, and the gross unwholesome air to which it is subject from its watry situation; nor is it in any degree pleasant, the narrow streets, or rather lanes in it, being badly paved, and for the most part inhabited by seafaring persons, fishermen, and oyster-dredgers.
Its commodious situation for navigation near the Swale, to which the town then stood much nearer than it does at present, caused it to be frequented by the Danes, in their piratical excursions into this county, particularly in 893, these pirates, who had been ravaging. France and the Low Countries, being distressed for subsistence, turned their thoughts towards England, for the sake of plunder: for this purpose, with one of their fleets, they sailed up to Apledore, and with the other, consisting of about eighty ships, under the command of Hastings their captain, they entered the mouth of the river Thames, and landing in this parish built themselves a fortress or castle here. Asserius writes, anno 892, Hastengus fecit sibi firmissimum oppidum apud Middeltunam. Sax. Chron. anno 893, interpreted, Arcem extruxit. Simon Dunelm, coll. 151, H. Huntingdon, lib. 5, Florence of Worcester, p. 595, and Chron. Malros, Fecit munitionem. Spelman, in his Life of Alfred, says, Dani castra validis operibus communiunt. This fortress was erected at a place called Kemsleydowne, in the marshes, about midway between the town and the mouth of the creek, the scite of which is still visible, and being overgrown with wood and bushes, has obtained the name of Castberough. (fn. 1) It is of a square form, and is surrounded by a high bank thrown up, and a broad ditch. There is a raised causeway, very plainly to be seen, leading from it towards the seashore. From this fortress they not only made their excursions and plundered the neighbouring country, but secured themselves against such power as the king might send against them.
This town of Milton being part of the royal demesnes, was a cause of its being destroyed by earl Godwin, who being at variance with Edward the Consessor, came here, with a large force, in the year 1052, and burned this town, then of good condition, to the ground; and afterwards ransacked and spoiled many other of the king's estates throughout the county. After which it does not seem to have been ever restored to its former state.
Its condition in the reign of queen Elizabeth may be seen by the survey, made by her order in the 8th year of her reign; by which it appears, that there were then in this town, houses inhabited one hundred and thirty, persons lacking habitations six, landing-places four, one called Fluddmill keye, appertaining to Sir Henry Cheney; the second, Whitlock's key, now the Town key; the third, Reynolds's, now Page's key; and the fourth, Hamond key, appertaining to Thomas Hayward, now Huggins's key; ships and vessels twenty-six, of which twenty were under ten tons; the rest were of twelve, sixteen, and twenty tons; and persons occupied in trade and fishing twenty four.
Since which the town of Milton has considerably increased, as well in the number of its houses and inhabitants, as in its wealth and trade. The number of houses at present is about two hundred and thirty, which are supposed to contain about twelve hundred inhabitants.
The trade of it chiefly consists in the traffic carrying on weekly at the four wharfs in it, where the corn and commodities of the neighbouring country are shipped for London, and goods of every sort brought back again in return; and in the fishery for oysters, a further account of which will be given hereafter. Besides which, the several mills here do not contribute a little to the benefit of this place; four of these are employed in the grinding of corn, and dressing it into flour; and the fifth, called Perrywinckle mill, was some few years ago applied to the manufacturing of pearl-barley, which used to be imported from Holland; and it was supposed to be the only mill in the kingdom where that article was brought to the same perfection as in Holland, but this manufacture for want of due encouragement has been since discontinued.
The town of Milton is governed by a a portreve, who is chosen annually on St. James's day, by the inhabitants of the parish paying church and poor's rates; whose office is, to oversee the market, and preserve good order within the town, and to execute the office of clerk of the market in all matters, within the hundreds of Milton and Marden; he likewise sets the price of all things which come to the keys, or any other creek within the hundred, being such things as head officers in other towns may set the prices on
The market, which is a very plentiful one for all sorts of butchers meat, poultry, &c. is held on a Saturday weekly, at the shambles, in the center of the town. Adjoining to them is the market-house, having a clock, and a bell, which is rung not only for the purpose of the market, but for the calling of the parshioners to church, for funerals, and for occasional parish meetings. At a small distance northward from the shambles is a king of court-house, being a very low old-timbered tenement, where the courts of the manor are kept, and other meetings held; at other times it is made use of as the school house; underneath it is the town prison.
The school is endowed with the annual sum of nine pounds, an account of which may be seen hereafter, among the charitable benefactions to this parish. The master is appointed by the minister and churchwardens. Nine or ten poor boys are taught to read and write in it.
There is a fair, which used to be held on the feast of St. Margaret, July 13, now, by the alteration of the stile, on the 24th of that month, and the two following days.
The lands in this parish, near the town, and especially on the lower or northern part of it, are very rich and sertile. Adjoining to these are the marshes, which extend to the waters of the Swale. Below the hill westward there is another streamlet, which having turned a mill near the vicarage, runs on not far distant from the church, and court-lodge, situated about half a mile northward below the present town, near which the former one destroyed by Earl Godwin is supposed to have once stood.
In the north-west part of this parish, among the marshes, there is a decoy for wild fowl, the only one, that I know of, in this part of the county. The fowl caught in it, are much esteemed for their size and flavor. Great numbers of them are weekly taken and sent up to London.
In this parish, at a small distance northward from Bobbing-place, is a farm called the Quintin farm, which shews that diversion to have been formerly used in it. (fn. 2)
THE FISHERY belonging to the manor and hundred of Milton is of very considerable account. It seems to have been granted by king John, by his charter, in his 7th year, to the abbot and convent of Faversham, by the description of the fisheries of Milton, which the men of Seasalter then held by the yearly rent of twenty shillings, payable at his manor of Milton, and by doing therefrom the customs and service which were wont to be to it.
King Edward III. in his 4th year, confirmed this grant, as did king Henry VI. and this fishery remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was surrendered up into the king's hands, together with all its possessions.
After which, the fee simple of this fishery remained with the manor in the hands of the crown, till the 10th year of king Charles I. when it was passed away, with it, by the words recited in the grant then made of the manor, to Sir Ed. Browne and Christ. Favell, as will be more fully mentioned below; after which, James Herbert, esq. coming into the possession of it, by the settlement of it from his father Philip, earl of Pembroke, he in the 26th year of king Charles II. obtained a fresh grant of this fishery, against which there was a quo warranto brought in the reign of queen Anne, on a petition of the fishermen of Rochester and Stroud, to shew by what authority they, the grantees, kept courts within their manor of Milton, and restrained the fishermen of those and the adjacent towns, from fishing and dredging for oysters within this hundred and manor: but on a trial had at bar, a verdict was given in his favor. Since which it has continued down, in like manner as the manor of Milton, to the right hon. Philip, viscount Wenman, and Mrs. Anne Herbert, who are at this time proprietors of this fishery, together with the manor.
The company of Fishermen, or Dredgers, of this fishery, hold it by lease from the owners of the manor, at the yearly rent of one hundred pounds and four bushels of oysters. They are governed by their particular officers, under certain rules or bye-laws, made by antient custom at the court baron of the manor. There are now about one hundred and forty freemen belonging to it.
The oysters produced from these grounds, within the limits of this fishery, are usually called Milton Natives, and are esteemed the finest and richest flavored of any in Europe. They are supposed to be the same that Juvenal particularly describes, in his fourth satire, as being reckoned a delicacy even in his time, in these words, satire iv. l. 144:
— Rutupinove edita fundo Ostrea, callebat primo deprendere morsu.
The sum usually returned for these oysters is from 3000l. to 7000l. per annum. The Dutch have been supposed by many, to have engrossed this article of luxury; but they expend but a very small part of the above sums, and sometimes none, for the space of seven years together.
IN THE WESTERN PART of this parish there are several hundred acres of coppice-wood, which are adjoining to a much larger tract of the like sort, extending southward almost as far as Binbury pound, on the west side of Stockbury-valley, for the space of near five miles. These woods, especially those in and near this parish, are noted for the great plenty of chesnut stubs interspersed promiscuously throughout them, which, from the quick and strait growth of this king of wood, makes them very valuable. These are so numerous in them, as to give name to most of these woods near Milton, which, besides their particular names to each of them, are usually called by the general name of Chesnut-woods. And in the presentment made of the customs of the manor of Milton in 1575, it is mentioned, that the occupiers of the three mills holden of the manor should gather yearly for the lord of it nine bushels of chestenottes, in Chestnott wood, or pay eighteen-pence by the year to the queen, who then had the manor in her own hands, and was possessed of three hundred acres of chesnut wood within this hundred.
¶These chesnuts are undoubtedly the indigenuous growth of Britain, planted by the hand of nature. They are interspersed throughout the whole tract, without any form or regularity, and are many of them, by their appearance, of great age; and by numbers of them, which now seem almost worn out and perishing, being made use of as the termini or boundaries, as well of private property as of parishes, it is plain they were first pitched upon, in preference to others, for that purpose, as being the largest and most antient ones of any then existing; and as these are hardly ever cut down or altered, they must have stood sacred to this use from the first introduction of private property into this kingdom, and the first division of it into parishes. Four letters were printed in 1771, after having been read before the Royal Society, two of which were written by Dr. Ducarel, and the other two by Mr. Thorpe and Mr. Hasted, to prove that chesnut-trees were the indigenous growth of this kingdom, in answer to an idea of the hon. Daines Barrington, who had a wish to establish a contrary opinion.
DR. PLOT says, that Herba Britannica, which Twyne and Johnson think to be bistort, Trisolium acetosum, or Oxys; Empetron, quæ est petrafindula Britanniæ prope peculiaris, and Crocus, were found at Milton by Scribonius Largus, when he came into Britain with the emperor Claudius. And he further says, that Crocus sativus, saffron, was heretofore sown and gathered (as now at Walden, in Essex) at Milton, and quotes for his authority, a manuscript rental of the manor of Milton, in the library of Christ-church, Canterbury.
MILTON is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Sittingborne.
The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It is a large handsome building, consisting of two isles and two chancels, the southernmost of which belongs to the manor of Northwood. It has a well built tower at the west end, in which are five bells. In this church, among others, were formerly the arms of Barry, Diggs, Finch, of the Five Ports, of Norwood and Norton, with their several crests, trophies, and banners; of Marten quartering Boteler; one coat, Barry, argent and azure, on a canton of the first, a bird of the second; Argent, three bends azure, within a bordure, eight mullets; Gules, a fess or, between three mullets, argent; and in one of the windows, a man kneeling, with a coat of arms, Six lions rampant, three and three, and underneath, Orate paia Guliel Savage Armigi.
Mauricius ap John, rector of St. George's, in Exeter, was buried in the choir of this church, as appears by his will, anno 1499.
In the year 1070, being the 5th year of his reign, William the Conqueror gave to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, the church of Middelton, and the tenths of all the products accruing from that manor, and the tenths of all its appurtenances, of the land, wood, meadows, and water, excepting the tenths of honey, and rent paid in money. (fn. 12)
Pope Lucius XI. in 1144, at the petition of abbot Hugh de Trottesclive, confirmed the annual pension of ten marcs from this church to that abbey.
In 1168, the conventual church of St. Augustine was the greatest part of it burnt; on which account this church was allotted to the sacristy there, for the repair of it. (fn. 13) But they did not keep it long, for in 1178, at the king's instance, they gave it up, and lost all property both in the church, and the advowson of it. A composition was entered into between the archbishop and the abbot in 1182, concerning the privileges and exemptions of the latter; when it was agreed, that the archdeacon, or his official, should receive his accustomed dues and procurations from the churches of St. Augustine, excepting those of Minster, Northborne, and Chistelet, and from this church likewise, when the monks should again get possession of the appropriation of it.
Four years after which, the abbot demised to the prioress of St. Sexburg of Shepey, the tiches which his monastery possessed, in right of this church, in Bobbing, at the yearly rent of ten shillings, on condition that all housekeepers, which should be on the estates from which they arose, should yearly repair to this the mother church, with their oblations, on Christmas-day, the Purification, and Easter day. And in 1188, the abbot demised to the prioress there, the tenths of Westlonde, within her parish, for the rent of fourteen shillings, payable yearly to the sacrist of St. Augustine.
About the year 1198, the abbot and convent recovered this church, which was then become vacant by the death of one Franco, the person to whom they had given it up, at the instance of king Henry. But they had kept it but a small time, before the archbishop disturbed them in their possession of it. However, by the mediation of mutual friends, and at the king's request, that he would not molest them in their appropriation of it; he out of respect to the king, ratified this church to them, to be possessed by them for ever. (fn. 14)
There was a pension of forty shillings payably yearly from this church, with the chapel belonging to it, to the above monastery, which, with the other pensions from their several churches, was given up by agreement in 1242, for a compensation out of the profits of the church of Preston.
The abbot and convent, among the extensive privileges from the papal see, had obtained an exemption from all archiepiscopal authority, and about the year 1295 made an institution of several new deanries, and apportioned the several churches belonging to his monastery, to each of them, according to their vicinity; one of these was the deanry of Lenham, in which this church was included. This raised great contests with the several archbishops, and after more than five years altercation, the abbot was stripped of these exemptions, and was declared, by the pope's bull, to be subject to the archbishop's jurisdiction, in like manner as before; which entirely dissolved these new deanries, and that of Lenham among them. (fn. 15)
Notwithstanding the abbot and convent seem to have held the appropriation of this church almost from held the appropriation of this church almost from the first grant of it, and though there had been vicars instituted to it long before this time, for Robert de Wikes, who stiles himself vicar of Middelton, by his deed in 1247, granted seven deywerks of land, with the houses built on it, for the habitation of the vicar of Middelton, for the time being; and the abbot and convent had in 1286, assigned a portion for the maintenance of the vicar here; yet there does not appear to have been any regular endowment of a vicarage to it, till the reign of king Edward III. when archbishop Stratford, in 1345, anno 20 Edward III. by his instrument, decreed, that the vicar of the church of Middelton, and his successors, should have the usual mansion of the vicarage, with the garden adjoining to it, together with one acre of the glebe of the same; and that he should have, in the name of the vicarage, all manner of oblations in the church of Middelton, and in all places, situated within the bounds and limits or titheable places of it; and that they should have in the name of the vicarage, all tithes of sylva cædua, wool, lambs, calves, pigs, ducks, geese, swans, pidgeons, cheese, milk-meats, herbage, apples, pears, and other fruit, growing in gardens and orchards, pulse, flax, hemp, eggs, rushes, merchandizes, and of all mills built, or which might in future be built, within the bounds and limits or titheable places of the church, and all other small tithes whatsoever belonging to it, and all legacies left in future to it, which the rectors or vicars of it might of right or custom take; also, that the vicars, in right of the vicarage, should have of the religious, the annual pension of 4s. (fn. 16) sterling, one seam or quarter of corn, and three quarters or seams of barley, on the feast of St. Michael, at Middelton, by them to be yearly paid, on pain of the sequestration of the fruits and profits of the church, belonging to the religious, to be laid on as often and whenever they should cease in the payment of the pension or barley, or should not pay either of them in the time above-mentioned.
But that the vicars should undergo the burthen of serving by themselves, or some other fit priest, the church in divine services, in the finding of one lamp, to burn before the altar of St. Mary there, and the ministering of bread, wine, lights, and other things, which should be necessary for the celebration of divine rights in the church. The burthen likewise of the payment of tenths and other impositions, whenever they might be imposed on the English church, or incumbent on the church, for the taxation of twelve marcs, beyond the burthens allotted to the religious underneath, they should undergo at their own costs and expences.
But the burthen of the reparation and rebuilding of the chancel of the church, both within and without, and also the finding and repairing of books and vestments, and ornaments of the church, which were wont or ought of right or custom, to be found and repaired by the rectors of churches, and all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, incumbent on the church, the religious should undergo and acknowledge for ever, &c. (fn. 17)
The church and vicarage, after this, remained part of the possessions of the monastery, till the final dissolution of it, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was, with all its revenues, surrendered up into the king's hands, who by his dotation-charter, in his 33d year, settled both the appropriation of this church, and the advowson of the vicarage, among other premises, on his new-founded dean and chapter of Christchurch, Canterbury, with whom the inheritance of the parsonage still remains, the interest in the lease of it being now in the heirs of John Cockin Sole, esq. deceased, but the advowson of the vicarage the dean and chapter retain in their own hands, and are the present patrons of it.
The vicarage of Milton is valued in the king's books at 13l. 2s. 6d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 6s. 3d.
¶In 1578, there were here, dwelling-houses on hundred and eight, communicants three hundred and seventy-four. In 1640 this vicarage was valued at eighty pounds. Communicants five hundred and twenty-nine.
The antient annual pension of four shillings, one quarter of wheat, and three quarters of barley, stipulated to be paid by the religious as before-mentioned, still continues to be paid by the lessee of the parsonage, by the covenants of his lease.
The agreement made between the prior of the brethren of the hospital of St. John of Jersalem and the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, about king Henry the IId.'s reign, that whenever their chapel of Rodmersham should be dedicated, and the cemetery consecrated, they would diminish by it none of the mother church of Middleton's rights; has already been more fully mentioned in the account of that parish before. (fn. 18)
Sittingbourne is a large town up from Faversham on the A2, or the old high road.
Today it is post industrial, mostly, with a one way system and out of town big box stores.
I have seen little of worth in the town when we have passed through. So, Milton Regis was expected to be more of the same.
But the ancient borough is full of fine old timber-framed houses, narrow streets, but beyond them there are endless estates full of identical houses.
Holy Trinity sits the other side of a busy junction, at the end of a short lane, now used mostly by people visiting the large playing field so their dogs don't crap in their owner's back gardens.
Or so it seemed.
Urban churches are rarely open for causal visits, so it proved this time. The young folks paiting the parish offices didn't have a key for the church, so could not help.
So I made do with snapping the outside of the church and large collection of ancient gravestones, one I learn was connected to the Gunpowder Plot.
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The massive 14th century tower grabs attention immediately, but just by the door is a most mysterious headstone which commemorates a man killed by a rocket at an early Guy Fawke`s celebration. Inside, the south aisle is almost as wide as the nave and has a rare rood loft staircase that runs in the thickness of the wall rather than up a spiral staircase. There is little stained glass but the east window, by the firm of Ward and Hughes is rather a masterpiece, with most of the subjects being real portraits – especially the figures of St George and St Uriel. An inscription nearby tells the whole story. At the junction of nave and chancel is a rare benefactions board which is carved to look like a memorial – look out for Faith Hope and Charity. The medieval vestry at the north east corner has an original shuttered window – a rare survival indeed, whilst under the huge tower is a benefactions board recording gifts to dredgermen`s widows. Now you don’t find them very often!
www.kentchurches.info/church.asp?p=Milton+Regis
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MILTON,
OR, more properly, Middleton, lies the next parish north-westward from Sittingborne, last described, and seems to have taken its name from the Saxon Midletun, a name denoting its situation in the middle part of this county.
THE PARISH of Milton is most of it situated on low flat ground, and extends from the high London road as far as the waters of the Swale northward, adjoining to which, the marshes in this parish are both fresh and salt, of a very large extent. In the southern or upper part of the parish, next to the London road, is a small hamlet, called from the soil Chalkwell, in which there are two modern-built houses of the better sort, the lower most of which has a large tan-yard belonging to it; near it there rise some springs, which fill several large ponds, the reservoirs for a corn mill below them, after which they run along the east skirts of the town, which are a continued swamp of watry bogs, into the creek below. The town, antiently called the king's town of Milton, as being part of the antient possessions of the crown, is situated about half a mile from the high London road, at the eastern boundary of the parish, the greatest part of it on the knole of a hill, extending mostly down the east side of it to the head of the creek, which flows north-westward from hence, and at two miles distance, after several meandrings, joins the waters of the Swale. It has a very indifferent character for health, owing both to the badness of the water, and the gross unwholesome air to which it is subject from its watry situation; nor is it in any degree pleasant, the narrow streets, or rather lanes in it, being badly paved, and for the most part inhabited by seafaring persons, fishermen, and oyster-dredgers.
Its commodious situation for navigation near the Swale, to which the town then stood much nearer than it does at present, caused it to be frequented by the Danes, in their piratical excursions into this county, particularly in 893, these pirates, who had been ravaging. France and the Low Countries, being distressed for subsistence, turned their thoughts towards England, for the sake of plunder: for this purpose, with one of their fleets, they sailed up to Apledore, and with the other, consisting of about eighty ships, under the command of Hastings their captain, they entered the mouth of the river Thames, and landing in this parish built themselves a fortress or castle here. Asserius writes, anno 892, Hastengus fecit sibi firmissimum oppidum apud Middeltunam. Sax. Chron. anno 893, interpreted, Arcem extruxit. Simon Dunelm, coll. 151, H. Huntingdon, lib. 5, Florence of Worcester, p. 595, and Chron. Malros, Fecit munitionem. Spelman, in his Life of Alfred, says, Dani castra validis operibus communiunt. This fortress was erected at a place called Kemsleydowne, in the marshes, about midway between the town and the mouth of the creek, the scite of which is still visible, and being overgrown with wood and bushes, has obtained the name of Castberough. (fn. 1) It is of a square form, and is surrounded by a high bank thrown up, and a broad ditch. There is a raised causeway, very plainly to be seen, leading from it towards the seashore. From this fortress they not only made their excursions and plundered the neighbouring country, but secured themselves against such power as the king might send against them.
This town of Milton being part of the royal demesnes, was a cause of its being destroyed by earl Godwin, who being at variance with Edward the Consessor, came here, with a large force, in the year 1052, and burned this town, then of good condition, to the ground; and afterwards ransacked and spoiled many other of the king's estates throughout the county. After which it does not seem to have been ever restored to its former state.
Its condition in the reign of queen Elizabeth may be seen by the survey, made by her order in the 8th year of her reign; by which it appears, that there were then in this town, houses inhabited one hundred and thirty, persons lacking habitations six, landing-places four, one called Fluddmill keye, appertaining to Sir Henry Cheney; the second, Whitlock's key, now the Town key; the third, Reynolds's, now Page's key; and the fourth, Hamond key, appertaining to Thomas Hayward, now Huggins's key; ships and vessels twenty-six, of which twenty were under ten tons; the rest were of twelve, sixteen, and twenty tons; and persons occupied in trade and fishing twenty four.
Since which the town of Milton has considerably increased, as well in the number of its houses and inhabitants, as in its wealth and trade. The number of houses at present is about two hundred and thirty, which are supposed to contain about twelve hundred inhabitants.
The trade of it chiefly consists in the traffic carrying on weekly at the four wharfs in it, where the corn and commodities of the neighbouring country are shipped for London, and goods of every sort brought back again in return; and in the fishery for oysters, a further account of which will be given hereafter. Besides which, the several mills here do not contribute a little to the benefit of this place; four of these are employed in the grinding of corn, and dressing it into flour; and the fifth, called Perrywinckle mill, was some few years ago applied to the manufacturing of pearl-barley, which used to be imported from Holland; and it was supposed to be the only mill in the kingdom where that article was brought to the same perfection as in Holland, but this manufacture for want of due encouragement has been since discontinued.
The town of Milton is governed by a a portreve, who is chosen annually on St. James's day, by the inhabitants of the parish paying church and poor's rates; whose office is, to oversee the market, and preserve good order within the town, and to execute the office of clerk of the market in all matters, within the hundreds of Milton and Marden; he likewise sets the price of all things which come to the keys, or any other creek within the hundred, being such things as head officers in other towns may set the prices on
The market, which is a very plentiful one for all sorts of butchers meat, poultry, &c. is held on a Saturday weekly, at the shambles, in the center of the town. Adjoining to them is the market-house, having a clock, and a bell, which is rung not only for the purpose of the market, but for the calling of the parshioners to church, for funerals, and for occasional parish meetings. At a small distance northward from the shambles is a king of court-house, being a very low old-timbered tenement, where the courts of the manor are kept, and other meetings held; at other times it is made use of as the school house; underneath it is the town prison.
The school is endowed with the annual sum of nine pounds, an account of which may be seen hereafter, among the charitable benefactions to this parish. The master is appointed by the minister and churchwardens. Nine or ten poor boys are taught to read and write in it.
There is a fair, which used to be held on the feast of St. Margaret, July 13, now, by the alteration of the stile, on the 24th of that month, and the two following days.
The lands in this parish, near the town, and especially on the lower or northern part of it, are very rich and sertile. Adjoining to these are the marshes, which extend to the waters of the Swale. Below the hill westward there is another streamlet, which having turned a mill near the vicarage, runs on not far distant from the church, and court-lodge, situated about half a mile northward below the present town, near which the former one destroyed by Earl Godwin is supposed to have once stood.
In the north-west part of this parish, among the marshes, there is a decoy for wild fowl, the only one, that I know of, in this part of the county. The fowl caught in it, are much esteemed for their size and flavor. Great numbers of them are weekly taken and sent up to London.
In this parish, at a small distance northward from Bobbing-place, is a farm called the Quintin farm, which shews that diversion to have been formerly used in it. (fn. 2)
THE FISHERY belonging to the manor and hundred of Milton is of very considerable account. It seems to have been granted by king John, by his charter, in his 7th year, to the abbot and convent of Faversham, by the description of the fisheries of Milton, which the men of Seasalter then held by the yearly rent of twenty shillings, payable at his manor of Milton, and by doing therefrom the customs and service which were wont to be to it.
King Edward III. in his 4th year, confirmed this grant, as did king Henry VI. and this fishery remained part of the possessions of the abbey till its dissolution, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was surrendered up into the king's hands, together with all its possessions.
After which, the fee simple of this fishery remained with the manor in the hands of the crown, till the 10th year of king Charles I. when it was passed away, with it, by the words recited in the grant then made of the manor, to Sir Ed. Browne and Christ. Favell, as will be more fully mentioned below; after which, James Herbert, esq. coming into the possession of it, by the settlement of it from his father Philip, earl of Pembroke, he in the 26th year of king Charles II. obtained a fresh grant of this fishery, against which there was a quo warranto brought in the reign of queen Anne, on a petition of the fishermen of Rochester and Stroud, to shew by what authority they, the grantees, kept courts within their manor of Milton, and restrained the fishermen of those and the adjacent towns, from fishing and dredging for oysters within this hundred and manor: but on a trial had at bar, a verdict was given in his favor. Since which it has continued down, in like manner as the manor of Milton, to the right hon. Philip, viscount Wenman, and Mrs. Anne Herbert, who are at this time proprietors of this fishery, together with the manor.
The company of Fishermen, or Dredgers, of this fishery, hold it by lease from the owners of the manor, at the yearly rent of one hundred pounds and four bushels of oysters. They are governed by their particular officers, under certain rules or bye-laws, made by antient custom at the court baron of the manor. There are now about one hundred and forty freemen belonging to it.
The oysters produced from these grounds, within the limits of this fishery, are usually called Milton Natives, and are esteemed the finest and richest flavored of any in Europe. They are supposed to be the same that Juvenal particularly describes, in his fourth satire, as being reckoned a delicacy even in his time, in these words, satire iv. l. 144:
— Rutupinove edita fundo Ostrea, callebat primo deprendere morsu.
The sum usually returned for these oysters is from 3000l. to 7000l. per annum. The Dutch have been supposed by many, to have engrossed this article of luxury; but they expend but a very small part of the above sums, and sometimes none, for the space of seven years together.
IN THE WESTERN PART of this parish there are several hundred acres of coppice-wood, which are adjoining to a much larger tract of the like sort, extending southward almost as far as Binbury pound, on the west side of Stockbury-valley, for the space of near five miles. These woods, especially those in and near this parish, are noted for the great plenty of chesnut stubs interspersed promiscuously throughout them, which, from the quick and strait growth of this king of wood, makes them very valuable. These are so numerous in them, as to give name to most of these woods near Milton, which, besides their particular names to each of them, are usually called by the general name of Chesnut-woods. And in the presentment made of the customs of the manor of Milton in 1575, it is mentioned, that the occupiers of the three mills holden of the manor should gather yearly for the lord of it nine bushels of chestenottes, in Chestnott wood, or pay eighteen-pence by the year to the queen, who then had the manor in her own hands, and was possessed of three hundred acres of chesnut wood within this hundred.
¶These chesnuts are undoubtedly the indigenuous growth of Britain, planted by the hand of nature. They are interspersed throughout the whole tract, without any form or regularity, and are many of them, by their appearance, of great age; and by numbers of them, which now seem almost worn out and perishing, being made use of as the termini or boundaries, as well of private property as of parishes, it is plain they were first pitched upon, in preference to others, for that purpose, as being the largest and most antient ones of any then existing; and as these are hardly ever cut down or altered, they must have stood sacred to this use from the first introduction of private property into this kingdom, and the first division of it into parishes. Four letters were printed in 1771, after having been read before the Royal Society, two of which were written by Dr. Ducarel, and the other two by Mr. Thorpe and Mr. Hasted, to prove that chesnut-trees were the indigenous growth of this kingdom, in answer to an idea of the hon. Daines Barrington, who had a wish to establish a contrary opinion.
DR. PLOT says, that Herba Britannica, which Twyne and Johnson think to be bistort, Trisolium acetosum, or Oxys; Empetron, quæ est petrafindula Britanniæ prope peculiaris, and Crocus, were found at Milton by Scribonius Largus, when he came into Britain with the emperor Claudius. And he further says, that Crocus sativus, saffron, was heretofore sown and gathered (as now at Walden, in Essex) at Milton, and quotes for his authority, a manuscript rental of the manor of Milton, in the library of Christ-church, Canterbury.
MILTON is within the ECCLESIASTICAL JURISDICTION of the diocese of Canterbury, and deanry of Sittingborne.
The church is dedicated to the Holy Trinity. It is a large handsome building, consisting of two isles and two chancels, the southernmost of which belongs to the manor of Northwood. It has a well built tower at the west end, in which are five bells. In this church, among others, were formerly the arms of Barry, Diggs, Finch, of the Five Ports, of Norwood and Norton, with their several crests, trophies, and banners; of Marten quartering Boteler; one coat, Barry, argent and azure, on a canton of the first, a bird of the second; Argent, three bends azure, within a bordure, eight mullets; Gules, a fess or, between three mullets, argent; and in one of the windows, a man kneeling, with a coat of arms, Six lions rampant, three and three, and underneath, Orate paia Guliel Savage Armigi.
Mauricius ap John, rector of St. George's, in Exeter, was buried in the choir of this church, as appears by his will, anno 1499.
In the year 1070, being the 5th year of his reign, William the Conqueror gave to the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, the church of Middelton, and the tenths of all the products accruing from that manor, and the tenths of all its appurtenances, of the land, wood, meadows, and water, excepting the tenths of honey, and rent paid in money. (fn. 12)
Pope Lucius XI. in 1144, at the petition of abbot Hugh de Trottesclive, confirmed the annual pension of ten marcs from this church to that abbey.
In 1168, the conventual church of St. Augustine was the greatest part of it burnt; on which account this church was allotted to the sacristy there, for the repair of it. (fn. 13) But they did not keep it long, for in 1178, at the king's instance, they gave it up, and lost all property both in the church, and the advowson of it. A composition was entered into between the archbishop and the abbot in 1182, concerning the privileges and exemptions of the latter; when it was agreed, that the archdeacon, or his official, should receive his accustomed dues and procurations from the churches of St. Augustine, excepting those of Minster, Northborne, and Chistelet, and from this church likewise, when the monks should again get possession of the appropriation of it.
Four years after which, the abbot demised to the prioress of St. Sexburg of Shepey, the tiches which his monastery possessed, in right of this church, in Bobbing, at the yearly rent of ten shillings, on condition that all housekeepers, which should be on the estates from which they arose, should yearly repair to this the mother church, with their oblations, on Christmas-day, the Purification, and Easter day. And in 1188, the abbot demised to the prioress there, the tenths of Westlonde, within her parish, for the rent of fourteen shillings, payable yearly to the sacrist of St. Augustine.
About the year 1198, the abbot and convent recovered this church, which was then become vacant by the death of one Franco, the person to whom they had given it up, at the instance of king Henry. But they had kept it but a small time, before the archbishop disturbed them in their possession of it. However, by the mediation of mutual friends, and at the king's request, that he would not molest them in their appropriation of it; he out of respect to the king, ratified this church to them, to be possessed by them for ever. (fn. 14)
There was a pension of forty shillings payably yearly from this church, with the chapel belonging to it, to the above monastery, which, with the other pensions from their several churches, was given up by agreement in 1242, for a compensation out of the profits of the church of Preston.
The abbot and convent, among the extensive privileges from the papal see, had obtained an exemption from all archiepiscopal authority, and about the year 1295 made an institution of several new deanries, and apportioned the several churches belonging to his monastery, to each of them, according to their vicinity; one of these was the deanry of Lenham, in which this church was included. This raised great contests with the several archbishops, and after more than five years altercation, the abbot was stripped of these exemptions, and was declared, by the pope's bull, to be subject to the archbishop's jurisdiction, in like manner as before; which entirely dissolved these new deanries, and that of Lenham among them. (fn. 15)
Notwithstanding the abbot and convent seem to have held the appropriation of this church almost from held the appropriation of this church almost from the first grant of it, and though there had been vicars instituted to it long before this time, for Robert de Wikes, who stiles himself vicar of Middelton, by his deed in 1247, granted seven deywerks of land, with the houses built on it, for the habitation of the vicar of Middelton, for the time being; and the abbot and convent had in 1286, assigned a portion for the maintenance of the vicar here; yet there does not appear to have been any regular endowment of a vicarage to it, till the reign of king Edward III. when archbishop Stratford, in 1345, anno 20 Edward III. by his instrument, decreed, that the vicar of the church of Middelton, and his successors, should have the usual mansion of the vicarage, with the garden adjoining to it, together with one acre of the glebe of the same; and that he should have, in the name of the vicarage, all manner of oblations in the church of Middelton, and in all places, situated within the bounds and limits or titheable places of it; and that they should have in the name of the vicarage, all tithes of sylva cædua, wool, lambs, calves, pigs, ducks, geese, swans, pidgeons, cheese, milk-meats, herbage, apples, pears, and other fruit, growing in gardens and orchards, pulse, flax, hemp, eggs, rushes, merchandizes, and of all mills built, or which might in future be built, within the bounds and limits or titheable places of the church, and all other small tithes whatsoever belonging to it, and all legacies left in future to it, which the rectors or vicars of it might of right or custom take; also, that the vicars, in right of the vicarage, should have of the religious, the annual pension of 4s. (fn. 16) sterling, one seam or quarter of corn, and three quarters or seams of barley, on the feast of St. Michael, at Middelton, by them to be yearly paid, on pain of the sequestration of the fruits and profits of the church, belonging to the religious, to be laid on as often and whenever they should cease in the payment of the pension or barley, or should not pay either of them in the time above-mentioned.
But that the vicars should undergo the burthen of serving by themselves, or some other fit priest, the church in divine services, in the finding of one lamp, to burn before the altar of St. Mary there, and the ministering of bread, wine, lights, and other things, which should be necessary for the celebration of divine rights in the church. The burthen likewise of the payment of tenths and other impositions, whenever they might be imposed on the English church, or incumbent on the church, for the taxation of twelve marcs, beyond the burthens allotted to the religious underneath, they should undergo at their own costs and expences.
But the burthen of the reparation and rebuilding of the chancel of the church, both within and without, and also the finding and repairing of books and vestments, and ornaments of the church, which were wont or ought of right or custom, to be found and repaired by the rectors of churches, and all other burthens, ordinary and extraordinary, incumbent on the church, the religious should undergo and acknowledge for ever, &c. (fn. 17)
The church and vicarage, after this, remained part of the possessions of the monastery, till the final dissolution of it, in the 30th year of Henry VIII. when it was, with all its revenues, surrendered up into the king's hands, who by his dotation-charter, in his 33d year, settled both the appropriation of this church, and the advowson of the vicarage, among other premises, on his new-founded dean and chapter of Christchurch, Canterbury, with whom the inheritance of the parsonage still remains, the interest in the lease of it being now in the heirs of John Cockin Sole, esq. deceased, but the advowson of the vicarage the dean and chapter retain in their own hands, and are the present patrons of it.
The vicarage of Milton is valued in the king's books at 13l. 2s. 6d. and the yearly tenths at 1l. 6s. 3d.
¶In 1578, there were here, dwelling-houses on hundred and eight, communicants three hundred and seventy-four. In 1640 this vicarage was valued at eighty pounds. Communicants five hundred and twenty-nine.
The antient annual pension of four shillings, one quarter of wheat, and three quarters of barley, stipulated to be paid by the religious as before-mentioned, still continues to be paid by the lessee of the parsonage, by the covenants of his lease.
The agreement made between the prior of the brethren of the hospital of St. John of Jersalem and the abbot and convent of St. Augustine, about king Henry the IId.'s reign, that whenever their chapel of Rodmersham should be dedicated, and the cemetery consecrated, they would diminish by it none of the mother church of Middleton's rights; has already been more fully mentioned in the account of that parish before. (fn. 18)