View allAll Photos Tagged Arduino,
Quite late in the game, I've finally bought myself an Arduino board to brush up on electronics and make ... well, something
a bit customized... LED on the bottom and an additional Vin and gnd pin
photos by: flickr.com/ermuggo
Uses a neopixel matrix to display a color chosen by iphone app. The last color is store in eeprom and used at restart, so you can have the light on an outlet timer and it turns on with the last color.
Summary of the connector pinouts of the Arduino Giga R1. Here also stand the Registers names according to the connector pin names.
I have recently purchased an Arduino microcontroller board. It will run software to control activation of lamps, polling of sensors and the dot matrix display.
At the bottom right you can see my new protoboard which I am usnig to test the lamp controlling circuits. I have already had some partial success. I am really an electronics newbie...
UPDATE: study from Indiana University:
news.indiana.edu/releases/iu/2014/09/slow-walking-sitting...
Given the way science is not well vetted by the media, I'm concerned that this "sitting is killing you" movement is just another fad.
www.npr.org/2012/05/09/152336802/stand-up-walk-around-eve...
Never-the-less, I do believe it is probably a good idea for me to not sit at a computer for six hours at a stretch. But when I'm focused... I'm focused. So I've been thinking about a gadget that might help me.
And when Sparkfun showed off a new lilipad-buzzer thingy, it inspired me.
What you see above is the result of this order:
1 - $7.95 - SEN-09376 - Force Sensitive Resistor - Square
1 - $9.95 - DEV-11008 - LilyPad Vibe Board
1 - $24.95 - RTL-09876 - Lithium Polymer USB Charger and Battery
1 - $19.95 - DEV-10274 - LilyPad Arduino Simple Board
Plus some wire, a PN2222 transistor, a couple of resistors, and a bit of solder.
The stuff came yesterday and I whipped this up today, attached it between two pocket sized pieces of cardboard and sat on it.
After 20 minutes, the buzzer goes off until I stand up. If I sit down again before 2 minutes, the buzzer goes off and the count starts over. After standing for 2 minutes, the buzzer goes off briefly to let me know when its OK to sit again.
I should probably add a blink every few seconds (so you know the batter isn't dead) and explore the ATMega328p's sleep capabilities. I'm guessing that cell-phone class battery is over-kill for this application. Actually, the whole gadget could probably be made much more cheaply, but I know I couldn't have made one more quickly.
If this idea counts as intellectual property, then I'm releasing it under a Creative-Commons Share-Alike license. Code available upon request.
BTW, that battery went a week and a half on its first charge with no special power saving code, and only occasionally me remembering to turn it off once in a while.
There are two boards: the front panel, with LEDs, switches & associated resistors and the main board, with the Arduino (ATmega328P) and other ICs. All the circuits were made with perfboard, the holes provided a convenient grid to help keep everything aligned.
A stripboard Micro SD shield for the Arduino using a Micro SD to SD adapter. I got the idea of using the Micro SD adapter from the ghetto Micro SD socket here.
The stripboard layout for this is available here and a schematic for connection an SD to the Arduino here.
I managed to install the Arduino IDE onto a RaspberryPi, and from there, flash the Arduino Leonardo boot-loader onto this Adafruit ATMega32u4 Breakout Board.
But then I got lost trying to figure out which pin to plug an LED into to test it all via the blink program!
johngineer was kind enough to provide a pinout diagram, for this board and also for the Leonardo, but still left me wondering what the translation between the two was.
So I sat down and matched the pin descriptions. When i was almost done, I realized that there was a hint. If you compare the Breakout diagram to the Leonardo, the Leonardo diagram has extra characters like "PD6" for many pins which map directly to "D6" on the breakout. Turns out the "PD6" names are the ATMEL names for the pins on the chip itself which Adafruit abridged on the breakout (for obvious space reasons).
Still, this diagram should make the process near instantaneous rather than so puzzling.
Of course if you're not using the Arduino IDE, then you probably don't care.
UPDATE: Thanks to a write-up detailing what improvements the Leonardo brings I added additional notations including pins not readily available on the actual Leonardo boards.
Yun sketch taking temperature and humidity, logging to SD card. Cron calls python to upload data to plotly.
This is an Arduino-based emulation of the KENBAK-1, considered by some to be the first "personal computer". It was first advertised for sale in the September 1971 issue of Scientific American (forty years ago!).
I'd been thinking for a while that emulating an old-school switches-and-lamps computer would be a fun Arduino project, but had stalled looking at things like the Altair 8800 with its 30+ lights and 20+ switches. However, when I stumbled upon the Kenbak I thought it was something I could pull off as my first real Arduino project. Naturally I called it the KENBAK-uino.
This is the end-product, it can be programmed via the buttons on the front panel and show outputs on the LEDs. It's a faithful emulation of the original CPU but with a few enhancements thrown in like pre-loaded sample programs and access to a real time clock.
See the set.
See the videos.
Get the Arduino sketch (source code) from here.
Work in progress / proof of concept.
Arduino with pressure sensitive pad sending hit and velocity data to Ableton Live with Max4Live. Max interprets/maps velocity/pressure data and triggers drum sample.
Mixer, filter, and detector stage PCB.
All the details including schematic and KiCAD project files are available at jayakody2000lk.blogspot.com/2021/10/arduino-superheterody...
The three wires from the doorbell circuit are soldered to some pins which plug into the Arduino (barely visible here).
You can see the circuit more clearly here.
The hole for the USB lead is a bit of a mess. I used a drill and some wire cutters. I think I could do with a Dremel or something.
The brains of the sensor interface. This board communicates with all of the sensors and then forwards the processed information to the data server via a USB serial connection.
I made this housing for an Arduino Pro that will control my waveguide relay in my 47 GHz radio. This housing is made from 6061 billet aluminum. The cover is held on with a dozen 0-80 screws.
Just trying to find an easier way to manage the connectors for the Arduino board so time to use a breadboard rather than mess about with lots of soldering.