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Fused power inlet, front view. This particular inlet is a Corcom PE0SSSSX0 (Digikey CCM1384-ND) which is rated 10A @ 120VAC, fused, and filtered. It's overkill for this application but I happen to have a few of them and it's convenient to use the same unit everywhere.
Two safety grounds: one to mount to a filed down section of the frame (for good electrical contact), the other to run to the power supply. All four AC wires present as the switch is designed to interface to a 115/240 VAX PSU with the voltage selector on the PSU. The outside wires on the connector are the 115 hot and neutral.
Carl Raffle heater blocks and thermal barrier tubes, available from
shop.raffle.ch
You really, really want thermal barrier tubes with the stepped down inside diameter. As far as I can tell, only Makerbot and Carl Raffle are correctly making these. The ones from other suppliers, including those from QU-BD are not correctly manufactured. (Avoid purchasing from QU-BD if you can help it. All too often they ship the wrong parts and will then never, ever answer calls or e-mail attempting to fix the problem.)
The 0.4 mm nozzles are from Performance 3-d,
The two thin M6 hex nuts (which Carl provides) are used as jam nuts to fix the thermal barrier tube to the heat spreader bar: one below the bar and one above. If you have some heatsink grease, use a small amount of it on the nuts. Apply a very thin layer of it to the nut faces which face the heat spreader bar as well as to their threads. That will further help transfer heat from the thermal barrier tube to the heat spreader bar.
This is just one style of mounting the Y axis endstop. If you instead use
www.thingiverse.com/thing:357587
you may find yourself doing something different. Or if your mount can clear the Y rod mounts, then you may be able to engage the upper portion of the X axis rod holders which ride on the Y rods.
Download #Smartphone Photo Studio for #3DBenchy and tiny stuff! Se video and instructions at http://wp.me/p6xTQ3-ek #3dprinting See video: ift.tt/1MaFqId Learn more about 3D printing at 3DBenchy.com
21 ‪#‎3DBenchy‬ boats on a single 32-hour ‪#‎3dprint‬.
Read more at: 3dbenchy.com/?p=677
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Left: Maximum build size on a MakerBot Replicator 1: 150mm
Right: Near maximum build size on the Unofficial ReplicatorXL: 248mm (I think it can go to 255 or so)
Custom Replicator case increases build height by 100mm.
21 ‪#‎3DBenchy‬ boats on a single 32-hour ‪#‎3dprint‬.
Read more at: 3dbenchy.com/?p=677
‪‬
Changed the design on the side panels as well to match the Replicator 2 style.
Custom Replicator case increases build height by 100mm.
Fused power inlet. This particular inlet is a Corcom PE0SSSSX0 (Digikey CCM1384-ND) which is rated 10A @ 120VAC, fused, and filtered. It's overkill for this application but I happen to have a few of them and it's convenient to use the same unit everywhere.
This is my first test of my Pinhead 4X5 pinhole camera, a design for 3D printers. (Yes, I printed this myself, at home. The design is available on Thingiverse at: www.thingiverse.com/thing:143882 )
I had a film holder loaded with Ilford Multigrade paper already, so I used that for this test. I put very little effort into framing the shot because I knew it was going to take 15 minutes or more and the sun was setting! So, this is a hastily composed photo, just for the sake of evaluating the "lens" and the camera itself. (Yes, I made the brass shim pinhole myself: approximately f235)
Post-processing was done with Lightroom and the Silver Efex Pro2 plugin.