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This is my first test of my Pinhead 4X5 pinhole camera, a design for 3D printers. (Yes, I printed this myself, at home. The design is available on Thingiverse at: www.thingiverse.com/thing:143882 )

I had a film holder loaded with Ilford Multigrade paper already, so I used that for this test. I put very little effort into framing the shot because I knew it was going to take 15 minutes or more and the sun was setting! So, this is a hastily composed photo, just for the sake of evaluating the "lens" and the camera itself. (Yes, I made the brass shim pinhole myself: approximately f235)

 

Post-processing was done with Lightroom and the Silver Efex Pro2 plugin.

Edge view of the XY plate, heat spreader bar, and heater block with nozzle.

 

If you have some heatsink grease, use a small amount of it on the nuts. Apply a very thin layer of it to the nut faces which face the heat spreader bar as well as to their threads. That will further help transfer heat from the thermal barrier tube to the heat spreader bar.

A genuine Makerbot extruder stepper motor, genuine Makerbot pinch gears, and a machined, aluminum filament feeder from the eBay seller cre8it. As of this writing, 6 July 2014, Makerbot is still selling these motors and pinch gears. They do charge a premium for the motors -- $30 USD -- but if you want a small motor, this is the ticket. You may be able to find a comparable motor elsewhere for less.

 

These aluminum filament feeders from cre8it are largely based upon Wingcommander's design,

 

www.thingiverse.com/thing:42250

   

3D Printer Shootout Testing - Day 3

We got a 3D printer at work.

We're still trying out how it works best

This is the first object with 1/8 mm resolution, an owl made of ABS on a Lego brick from Thingyverse.

15. Januar 2013

Phonecam

Bottom view of the XY plate with the heat spreader bar mounted. You may prefer to use a socket cap head bolt: this philips head may well interfere with the heater block. Will depend upon the style of heater block you choose to use.

Top view of the heater block mounted to the heat spreader bar and XY plate. The top of the thermal barrier tube should not project above the M6 hex nut. Try to keep the sides of the M6 nut parallel to the long edge of the heat spreader bar. This helps prevent interference with the face of the extruder stepper motor.

3D Printer Shootout Testing - Day 3

3D Printer Shootout Testing - Day 3

Day 1 of the prep work for the Ultimate 3D Printing Guide, 2013

Assembled extruder with heatsink and 24 VDC fan, side view.

 

Be sure to use a 40 x 40mm 24 VDC fan. MBI uses approximately a 5 CFM fan, but you can get much better, quieter fans which move more air (higher CFM). The fan shown is approximately 7 CFM. Note arrows molded into the side of the fan and orient the fan such that it blows towards the heatsink.

Day 1 of the prep work for the Ultimate 3D Printing Guide, 2013

3D Printer Shootout Testing - Day 3

Makerbot Mechanical Endstop v1.2 with the switch removed and replaced with a two position screw down terminal post occupying the Common and Normally Open (NO) pads.

3D Printer Shootout Testing - Day 3

Day 1 of the prep work for the Ultimate 3D Printing Guide, 2013

Spent the day helping DDL library staff assemble their new 3D printers.

3D Printer Shootout Testing - Day 3

Day 1 of the prep work for the Ultimate 3D Printing Guide, 2013

Day 1 of the prep work for the Ultimate 3D Printing Guide, 2013

Bottom view of the heater block mounted to the heat spreader bar and XY plate. Note that the heater block has been put on at an odd angle owing to the large head of the M6 bolt. Consider using a M6 bolt with a smaller head such as a socket cap head.

Hand constructed version of the thermistor circuit.

3D Printer Shootout Testing - Day 3

Head Sculpt by "Cubic Creations"

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