View allAll Photos Tagged tutorial.
Tutorial on the blog - make a cloud cushion with removable cover & custom pillow insert:
acuppaandacatchup.com/2012/08/liberty-scrap-challenge-aug...
in the latest issue of Digital SLR Photography Magazine :)
Details on their facebook page: www.facebook.com/DigitalSLRPhoto/photos/a.371534892873930...
Finally finished this tutorial on LEGO mech head building :D Basically it details the step-by-step process I use to build a mech head from scratch and I also explain certain techniques that I've used.
Read all about it over at my blog :D
messymaru.wordpress.com/2017/02/07/tutorial-designing-and...
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Visit my LEGO mech blog:
Facebook: www.facebook.com/MessyWorksLEGO
Twitter: Twitter.com/Messymaru
com duas ou mais folhas de fimo (1) juntá-las (2) e aparar as pontas (3) enrolar para fazer uma "cana" espiral (4 e 5) depois com a parte de taz de uma lâmina (ou cartão multibanco velho) com um bocado de papel para ajudar na fricção fazer pressão na parte lateral da cana (6). cuidado para não se cortarem se usarem a lâmina. ir rodando 90º e repetir o passo 6 (7). depois de vários "golpes" o produto final (8)
Step by step tutorial on my blog: steffyghost.wordpress.com/2012/02/27/heart-on-window-tuto...
Make sure you share your heart on the window pics. <3
*your
Is it bad I'm too lazy to go back and fix the grammar? haha.
Anyway, here is another nail tutorial. This time for press on nail extensions! This is easier than it looks, but it does take time and is a little tedious. Let me know if you have any questions! :)
Hello, everyone :)
This is an update from one of my previous, less detailed tutorial. I will talk about how to setup and take pictures of a scene for and HDR panorama, and how to process it… with tips, tricks and potential problems - either learned from my (relatively short) experience and materials that I’ve read. These HDR panoramas can be extremely tough to get right, but can result in impressive photos.
So… lets get started!
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update: I have recently written a program to transform your HDR panoramas (and other images) into small planets: Planetizer
update 2: oh wow, this appears on explore #14 Thank you to everyone who read, commented and faved. Any suggestions to improve this are always welcome :)
Quando eu postei aqui minhas unhas degradê muitas de vocês gostaram e me perguntaram como eu fiz, então eu resolvi montar esse tutorial bem básico explicando.
1- Primeiro você pinta a unha normalmente com o esmalte escolhido, neste caso o confeti da Impala.
2- Passe, na unha toda, uma camada de um esmalte que não seja tão concentrado, nesse caso o Ametista da Mohda, que além de ser ralo tem glitter que dá todo um charme.
3- Vá passando mais camadas do segundo esmalte, sempre começando a pincelada um pouco mais pra cima da pincelada anterior, conforme vou mostrando na sequência de fotos.
4- Finalize com uma camada de extra brilho ou roxinho.
É só isso... fácil demais.
Eu acho essa técnica muito mais fácil que a da esponja, que eu não consigo fazer de jeito nenhum!
Fica aqui a dica pra quem quiser fazer uma unha mais diferente e sem muito trabalho, dá até pra usar agora no natal, usando vermelho e dourado ou essas outras cores de natal!
Qualquer dúvida pergunta!
Gostaram?
Looking for another way to build a round tower? Try this tutorial on Brickbuilt.
Tutorials | Creations | Featured Tutorials | Build Logs | Commissions
Gurias, dica bacana do site www.noodle-head.com/2010/04/gathered-clutch-tutorial.html , a necessaire franzidinha fica linda!!!!!!!!!!! Aproveitem... Bjs e boa semana...
More furniture designs explained in this guide on Brickbuilt.
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A tutorial showing how to make a tree made mostly out of travis bricks and 1x1 plates in the your colour of your choice :)
You can find the tutorial here:
fullplatebuilds.com/2018/12/17/travis-tree-tutorial/
Hope you find it useful! :D
Buying LEGO bricks on Bricklink, especially from another country, often involves quite high shipping costs. This is especially irritating when you only want to buy a few pieces and the shipping cost is several times higher than the bricks themselves. The .cart files and shopping with friends come in handy here. The shipping cost is then spread over several people and is no longer so painful.
Full tutorial and bonus instruction for LEGO cart
A lot of beginners overlook the importance of colour correction in post-processing, but it is an essential step in any strong workflow. This tutorial will show you a great way to restore natural colours in your images, and create a balanced image, free from colour cast.
If you know any other photographers who would appreciate this tutorial, please feel free to share it :D
Join 1,000s of photographers in using the free Easy Panel for Photoshop: www.throughstrangelenses.com/easy-panel-download-for-phot...
Learn to create stunning images, with instantly downloadable, high quality video courses: Cityscape Tutorials & Luminosity Mask Tutorial & HDR Tutorial
Allsizes, its a little bigger
I've been getting a lot of requests to do tutorials on the colorings I do. Now, I can't do tutorials on EVERY coloring I do because that would take forever, and I don't even remember how I do half of them because honestly, I just mess around until I like it haha. But I've finally made two coloring tutorials for you all, thanks for being so patient with me since I've been promising these since forever.
Before I start I apologize for my explaining-skills, they're not that good hah. And on top of that, English isn't my first language as you might know..so be easy on me. I'm gonna explain it from scratch, so yes, in the beginning its like photoshop-for-dummies. (No offense if you're having trouble with them)
Also, colorings turn out different on each photo. So if these look weird on the photo you chose, you probably did nothing wrong..its just the photo.
These tutorials are made in Photoshop CS4, but usable for any version of Photoshop. Okay, enough talking. Lets get to business.
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COLORING ONE
STEP 1.
First, open Photoshop (omgosh, I know.. take a breath!). Now open a new blank file (FILE >NEW), I made mine size 450x600.. but this is up to you.
So, this is what you should have right now :
Now place your photo want to use (FILE > PLACE) and make it the size you want. Your screen should be like this now :
This is optional, but usually I sharpen the photos because they are quite blurry. And even if they're not, sharpening just adds something to them.
So, go to FILTER > SHARPEN > SHARPEN
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STEP 2.
The picture I chose is quite dark, so I'm gonna lighten it a bit. I'm gonna do this with CURVES.
This is where you find this option :
Once you click this, you will get this on your screen :
Now, just randomly drag the line to a direction. When you do this you will be able to change the numbers that say INPUT and OUTPUT :
These are the settings I used :
INPUT 209, OUTPUT 227
If your photo is still too dark (or bright) play around with these a little.
This is what I have now :
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STEP 3.
Now were gonna do apply a SOLID COLOR, this can be found here :
After clicking this a screen will appear with a color dock on it. In the lower corner there is a little section where you can add the code to a color you want to use :
This is the code you'll need to paste in there to get the color were gonna use : c7c67c .. which is green-ish. Now you can't see your image. Not good. Were gonna put the solid color on SOFT LIGHT so we can see it again :
It looks pretty nasty now, but this is what mine looks like :
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STEP 4.
Okay so we need to get rid of this green slime look. Its not the KCA's now is it? Now were gonna apply a SELECTIVE COLORING , this is where you can find it :
Now, this little screen with swatches will pop up :
Where it says REDS, you are able to choose which colors in the photo you want to accentuate or fade. In this first selective coloring were only adjusting the
REDS, CYANS and BLUES. These are the settings I used :
REDS
-100
+59
0
0
CYANS
+89
0
-100
0
BLUES
+100
0
-100
0
Not much difference, but this is what I have now :
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STEP 5.
Final step! Are you still holding on? So, were gonna do another selective coloring now. This time were only going to adjust the REDS, NEUTRALS and BLACKS
REDS
-100
+71
+100
0
NEUTRALS
+70
-12
-56
0
BLACKS
0
0
0
+100
If the blues are still to dominant, make another selective coloring and repeat what you did on the BLACKS on this one.
That was it! Please tell me if you're having trouble. And I'd love to see your resuslts! This is my result :
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COLORING TWO
First repeat STEP 1 & 2 of coloring one :)
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STEP 3
The first thing we need to do is to make a HUE/SATURATION layer. This is where you can find it :
Now this little dock will appear, with three swatches on it :
The settings I used are :
HUE : -59
SATURATION : -26
LIGHTNESS : 0
Don't panic, I know.. the picture looks pretty weird now. I made Demi look like Barney, as in the dinosaur :
Obviously we don't want it to stay like this, so were gonna put the layer on SOFT LIGHT :
A lot better huh?
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STEP 4
Next thing we need to do, is to make a COLOR BALANCE :
Another small dock will appear, put the first swatch on +19 :
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STEP 5
Now its time for a CHANNEL MIXER :
A small dock will appear, with three swatches. The first one will already be set to +100, change this to +94 :
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STEP 6
Now a step thats a little more difficult, but I'll try to get you through. Embrace yourselves. Were gonna do a CURVES layer :
The same dock as in the previous tutorial will appear. The little bar at the top that says RGB can also be set to Red, Green and Blue.
We will only change the settings for the RGB, Red and Blue.
First the RBG. If you did the previous tutorial too, you now know that you will first have to randomly drag the line to a direction so you'll be able to change the settings in the INPUT and OUTPUT boxes.
But the difference this time is that we have to make two points instead of one, so after putting in the settings for the first point you randomly drag another part of the line to fill in the settings for the other point.
The settings for RBG POINT 1 are:
INPUT : 157
OUTPUT : 144
POINT 2,
INPUT : 209
OUTPUT : 205
Now the reds, which only has one point :
INPUT : 170
OUTPUT : 176
And as last, the blues. Which has two points :
POINT 1,
INPUT : 30
OUTPUT : 32
POINT 2,
INPUT : 233
OUTPUT : 235
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STEP 7
You're still holding on? Okay good. This step is easy, its a SOLID COLOR layer :
The color you need to fill it with is called : 150a05 :
Set this layer to DIFFERENCE and bring the opacity down to 50% :
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STEP 8
The final step! Its a BRIGHTNESS/CONTRAST layer :
The settings I used :
BRIGNTNESS : -6
CONTRAST : +22
And were done! My result :
Now remember, it works differently on every photo. Show me your results! :)
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- follow/ask :)
Ben offers a great alternative to standard studs up cobblestone in the latest featured tutorial on Brickbuilt.
Tutorials | Creations | Featured Tutorials | Build Logs | Commissions
Design: Masha Athanasiadi
Thank you, Masha, for giving me permission to demonstrate your wonderful design!
30 modules, Ratio: square, No glue!
YT Tutorial: youtu.be/uApXZOyK4u4
Article to this design: origamitutorials.com/argyle-kusudama-tutorial/
Full color photo tutorial over on Moda Bake Shop:: www.modabakeshop.com/2011/02/sunkissed-squares.html
Eye shadows are very important in the makeup steps. Smokey eye makeup is a very tricky thing to do. If you are not a makeup expert and you lack incentive for making makeup, it doesn’t mean you cannot do anything. All you have to do is learn some tricks for Smokey eye makeup...
1 - Seguimos cosiendo el segundo color.
2 - Rematar los dos extremos y cortar un trozo de fieltro, piel o ultra suede.
3 - Pegar con pegamento textil el trozo que vayamos a poner y coserlo toda la vuelta.
4 - Así queda rematadito y es muy agradable al tacto.
5- Trabajo finalizado.
6 - Sólo queda montarlo al gusto .
Para hacer el cordón, he seguido este tutorial que me ha descubierto Ana :
You asked for it- and now it’s FINALLY here.
A tutorial on how to “Process DSLR Star Shots.”
I chose three images that represent the challenges I commonly face in editing my star shots, shot by three different cameras, and spanning different skill levels. I have recorded, with a screen capture program, my editing process from RAW import to JPEG export, with a voice narration explaining what is going on. In the image above you can see the beginning and end of each photo.
The image on the left was taken by Rich Worell in Maine. He saw my first tutorial on how to shoot star photos and got really excited to go out and give it a try. With his Nikon D40, he took this picture his first night. I asked him if I could use it as an example for this tutorial since it is very much like what many of our first pictures of the stars look like. With the beginner in mind, the editing on this shot will show you how to draw as much as you can from your image. It is also a great example of how to handle an image from an older generation DSLR.
The image in the middle is a traditional Milky Way picture, taken with my Canon 5d Markii. It was chosen to represent the potential in RAW files of the latest generation of DSLR’s and spend some time on how to turn those Milky Way shots into some attention grabbers. It also gives tips on eliminating undesirable light pollution and maintaining a consistent , natural gradient of color in the sky from the horizon to deeper space.
The image on the right is one of mine from earlier last year, taken with my Canon 30D. It represents a more complex image with a foreground element, mixed color hues, some Milky Way, and challenges of processing a RAW file from an older camera. In this video, I show tools that can give you customizable ways to correct tricky mixed color temperatures to bring balance to the image.
As I stated before, this tutorial will come by a donation. The information in the videos represents 3 yrs of shooting star photos, and all the time spent trying to edit them as best as I can. A donation of $20 will give you a password to play the video tutorials.
I know that is a bit steep in regards to videos online, but I have made these more as a personal workshop not just an online video. In fact, there are 14 videos in total, spanning more than an hour of on-screen, voice narrated star editing. In comparison to how much it would cost to attend a workshop in a classroom doing the same thing of watching someone edit on a big screen while they guide you through it- I believe the amount is quite fair.
I do all my editing on Adobe Lightroom 3. I believe it has the MOST powerful and simplest Noise Reduction, which is a huge priority for night shots. It also has great customizable masking tools that are intuitive and easy to use. Because of those factors, and that a 30 day fully functional, free download trial is available at Adobe.com, I have used that program for all processing on the tutorials.
If you are interested, you can find more information and instructions on how to make a donation and receive the password by going here:
Thanks for visiting and reading!
Before I started this tutorial I didn't like it much. But when I started adhering my ribbons and trim and saw my page coming together, I was quite pleased with the result. I like the bright colors in contrast with my black-and-white pic.
This is my very simple tutorial on doll hair curling. This is the way I use all the time on 1/6 scale dolls. I'm sure every doll customizer has their own way. Use at your own responsibility!
You need small bag closers or pipe cleaners. In my experience pipe cleaners hold better, but they also leave little fuzz in the hair that you'll have to wipe out afterwards. I use whatever whenever I feel like it. It's useful to cut them in a really smile size for this project. I make them about one inch long. You can roll as small or big hair strands as you want, but the small ones make smaller and better lasting curls that can last a long time even in Saran hair without any products.
Step 1: Roll a strand of hair around the bag closer or pipe cleaner into a very tight croissant, starting from the end of the strand, and rolling hair over the end so that it doesn't unravel. Tie the ends of the closer around each other as close to the scalp as possible. I usually do 20-30 of these croissants.
Step 2: Dip the doll's head in hot water. Tea water is hot enough; there's no need to burn your fingers with boiling water. Dip the head in cold water right after; it should make the curls last better.
Step 3: Let the doll's hair dry for a few hours, preferably overnight. You'll feel it in your hand when the hair is not damp anymore. If you want loose curls, though, feel free to not wait so long. If you want any product in the hair, spread it over the croissants when the hair has dried and let it set for as long as it takes for the particular product to dry. You can put a hair net on the doll's head to make the curls hold their tight positions better when they dry.
Step 4: Open the croissants gently... and you get teeny tiny curls! It's best to divide them in two if you want a natural look, or you can leave them bigger and tie them into a beautiful updo - not necessarily on the male dolls, though. ;-) Note that if you do big curls, it matters which way you open the croissants. You'll see why when you try it. I'm always annoyed by factory curls because they all open in the same direction. Personally, I like to vary it to make the curls frame the face in a flattering way.
Hopefully this is useful for someone. :-)
Per giocare un pò, ecco una micro guida per aiutarvi a colorare il silicone, praticamente con tutto... buon divertimento a tutti :)
Follow me on:
Facebook: www.facebook.com/MirabilsJewelry
Instagram: www.instagram.com/mirabilisjewelry/
Web Site: www.mirabilisjewelry.com
P.S. Alkhymeia is my old name, Mirabilis Jewelry is my new name :)))
And here you get the second part of my RevoluzZza easter decoration tutorial: blog.revoluzzza.com/?p=1350
I hope you'll enjoy it and sew many, many cute little birdies :-)
I am not sure if uploading this as a jpg will work...But if it does you can click on all sizes and then print these instruction out...
Will be making this in class this week...
blogged
sunshinescreations.vintagethreads.com/2007/09/squared-up-...
1. imgp5403, 2. imgp5405, 3. imgp5406, 4. imgp5407, 5. imgp5408, 6. imgp5409, 7. imgp5410, 8. imgp5411, 9. imgp5412, 10. imgp5413, 11. imgp5414, 12. imgp5415, 13. imgp5416, 14. imgp5417, 15. imgp5418, 16. imgp5419
Created with fd's Flickr Toys.
I have created a short tutorial since I get questions on how I process my images. It does however require that you are familiar with how layers work in Photoshop. You do also need to have Photomatix and Photoshop in order to follow the tutorial.
Note that the tutorial still is in beta, and the steps are published in reversed order :(
The tutorial can be found at:
http://vivid-pixels.blogspot.com/
Kaj
Como eu tinha falado no post da unha de Dálmatas, me pediram o tutorial dessa unha aqui nesse blog: daniele-daiane.blogspot.com/2010/09/daily-nail.html
Espero que ajude vcs! :D
1. Pinte a unha com algum esmalte clarinho. Eu acho que usei uma camada de Batida de Coco e uma de França, ambos da Colorama.
Faça manchinhas em todas as unhas. Pra isso, use um palitinho. Faça algumas bolinhas aleatórias, duas bolinhas grudadinhas e alguns borradinhos, variando dos tamanhos.
2. Escolha uma unha para fazer a coleira. Com um pincel e tinta pra nail art ou esmalte vermelho, faça um risquinho horizontal.
3. Com um pincel fino e tinta pra nail art ou esmalte preto, faça o contorno do traço vermelho. A dica que eu dou para fazer contornos finos é deixar o pincel quem retinho para cima e fazer o traço só com a pontinha dele, sem encostar muito na unha.
Faça uma bolinha com esmalte dourado logo abaixo do traço vermelho. Na verdade, eu usei tinta 3D dourada da Acrilex, daquelas que a gente usa pra trabalhinhos na escola.
4. Passe um pouquinho de esmalte com glitter no traço vermelho. Eu usei o Hits 368 de glitter forte vermelho.
Depois de passar o glitter, com pincel e esmalte dourado (ou a tinta 3D) faça um risquinho meio tortinho, como se fosse uma vírgula, bem no centro do traço vermelho e logo em cima da bolinha dourada.
Faça um número dentro da bolinha dourada com esmalte ou tinta preta.
Se a decoração foi feita com tinta pra nail art, passe uma camada de incolor para proteger os desenhos.
Twitter: @rubiaolivo
Feito baseado no tutorial encontrado em:
É super fácil! Se alguém tiver dúvidas é só perguntar, ok?
Beijos!
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UPDATE com maiores explicações:
É fácil.. primeiro você tem que cortar todos os quadradinhos na medida que quiser que eles fiquem no final + 2x a margem de costura. Como eu queria os meus com aproximadamente 3,5cm de lado, cortei todos os quadradinhos de 5x5cm.
Use a entretela mais fininha que tiver. Desenhe na entretela uma grade dividida em quadradinhos de 5x5cm. Coloque a entretela sobre uma toalha, com o lado da cola virado pra cima. Distribua os quadradinhos por cima da entretela com o direito pra cima, como quiser que eles fiquem no final, seguindo a grade desenhada. Agora, com o ferro de passar, cole os quadradinhos na entretela. Faça somente movimentos de pressão com o ferro, para os quadradinhos não saírem no lugar.
Agora você tem todos os quadradinhos colados, certo? Então é só dobrar a entretela seguindo as linhas e colunas de quadradinhos, direito sobre direito, e costurar! Primeiro costure linha por linha, abra as costuras, bata a ferro, e depois costure coluna por coluna, abra as costuras e bata a ferro também. As costuras vão ficar totalmente alinhadas, como mágica!
Dá uma olhada nas fotos do tutorial que indiquei. Se ficar alguma dúvida, é só perguntar!
___________________________________________________________________
UPDATE 2: A Edy fez um PAP fantástico baseado neste.. vejam lá no flickr dela:
www.flickr.com/photos/edy_arteira/4405431068/
Obrigada Edy!
Beijos!!
Found this little tutorial back on my laptop. I was asked to make a little tutorial last summer on how I make my models pose in my pictures. It was meant to be printed in a dollmagazine... Sadly in the end it didn´t get printed because of .... ..... whatever.... So I thought I´d share it with you guys.... Oh, and sorry for my very bad english,.. I never asked someone to correct it... lol