View allAll Photos Tagged troubleshooting
180: On a 1x30 belt grinder I’m going to start very carefully removing the excess bolster material along the top, checking it periodically to see how close I’m getting to the frame. I’m using this belt grinder, as opposed to the Burr King setup, as it’s smaller and I can get in a little tighter to the area I’m working on.
To make room for the clamp to clear the table, I’m again using a 1”X2”X3” precision block to lift the work, while still keeping it square to the belt. This is a little precarious here, as I’m only using one block on the far left side, under the blade. There is not enough room on the worktable for two blocks, but most importantly the two areas that the frame could rest on, are on two different planes. The handle area has an additional 60 thousands thickness on each side, so it is wider than the blade. Be especially careful not to tilt the handle area, keeping the blade tight and flat on the block. A little slip and the grinding won’t come out square.
131: Trim the excess tape from the sides with an X-Acto blade. This excess tape will get in your way otherwise, get caught on work surfaces as well as clog up with grit when you start cutting. Get in the habit of working clean and orderly, it will save you unforeseen headaches.
121: Re-tapping the holes once again, one-at-a-time, to clear away any chips or debris from the countersinking process. The screws coming in from the front and back should be re-taped according to their respective directions.
181: Checking to see where I’m at with this grinding process. You can easily tell what has happened, as the blue is obviously no longer on the areas where I have removed material. You can still see the blue in the center handle core especially, which indicates that I have not yet taken off all the high, excess spots on the bolsters. Be careful as you are grinding more and getting closer; you just want to kiss the bluing off of the core. Do not continue to grind past, as you would now be changing the overall shape of the knife from the initial design. Also, remember to change to a finer finishing grit belt as you are nearing completion.
Terry Boyer, Ohio River Islands National Wildlife Refuge, W.Va.
Terry is an enthusiastic champion of sustainability. In his day-to-day work he can be found weighing recycled materials, troubleshooting problems and advocating for new sustainability initiatives. His efforts efforts led to significant energy savings and water use reduction at the refuge.
235: Here you can see my scribed in shapes, along with my paper template. If you look closely you can see the sharpie marker layout as well.
102: I've now unscrewed everything and separated the liners. The blade and handle core are still attached together by tape.
125: I'm also rough sawing off the extra screw length nubs. I'll then remove each screw and grind and smooth down the excess nubs just enough so that when put back into the knife, the screw lengths are just a little short, which will ensure nothing snags and that all of my parts will lay perfectly flat.
205: I’m going to be covering the construction screws with gemstones, bezel set in 18k gold. The bezels are NOT glued in, and because gold can’t be soldered to titanium, the stones will be tightly press fit into place. The bolsters will be countersunk where the screws are. The countersunk hole will accommodate the set stones and are going to be carefully opened up to the correct size. I’m actually going to make the countersunk holes a thousandth of an inch, or so undersized so that the bezels will be press fit into place. The bezel set stones will be so tight that they will have to be lightly hammered in using a rawhide mallet so as not to break the stones. In the case of these bolsters I am going to set three 4mm stones and one 5mm stone. The bezels I pre-made out of 18k seamless tubing with a seat for the gemstone. The bezels are all cut to an even height of .0142 thousands for the 5mm bezel as you can see in the photo, and about 1/8” for the 4mm bezel height.
I want the bezels to have enough height in order to have sufficient meat to bury into the bolsters so they will be secure, and also to have a little bit sticking up from the surface. I like to have visible about .0030-.0040 thousandths of an inch of gold rim up above the surface of the handle. I also like the little bit of dimension the stones have off the surface of the knife for that studding effect.
112: You can see how the handle shape does fit the hand. You can also see the wear and tear on my hands from the process so far. Thankfully, I'm a quicker healer.
KIDDE smoke alarm troubleshooting steps:
1. Wake at 6am due to ear splitting 'low-battery chirp'
2. Groggily figure out which unit is making noise, unplug from ceiling, remove and replace 9v battery (you have a stash of 9v batteries, right?)
3. Noise continues. Consult internet, full of hate.
4. Remove battery, hold 'test' button for 30 seconds. Replace battery.
5. The next day, 6 am again. Repeat steps 1-4 with all detectors in the area. Notice CO detector, blinking smugly from wall outlet near the floor. Remove/disable CO detector.
6. Decide death by smoke or Carbon Monoxide wouldn't be so bad. We're glad KIDDE could help you get to this place of acceptance and peace.
1116: Once the position has been established, I now need to go back and enlarge the holes. Once that is done, I still need to enlarge the final countersink.
269: Here, I've re-aligned the bolsters with their new liners underneath. And, you can see the scribe lines on top, which shows where I still have too much material. I have to be very careful of the inside curve, as it is already at finished dimensions on the bolster part. I've Dykem’d everything, and I'll 1st tackle removing the excess liner material in the inside curve back to the correct finish dimension.
155: I have positioned the clamped assembly up on two precision 1” X 2” X 3” blocks to assure flatness, stability, and to make clearance room for the clamps, Make sure the 1” X 2” X 3” blocks are on the same plane!! Again I’ll be using a new, sharp #50 drill bit. I’m now going to position the drill bit in perfect alignment with the previously drilled bolster holes, raising and lowering the bit with the drill press in the OFF position to start. It is important to properly position this step to assure a clear transition from the bolster hole, continuing the hole into the knife frame. From here I’ll turn ON the drill press and carefully lower the bit though the bolster hole and into the material underneath, again slow and easy, in and out in small movements. Repeat for second hole.
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KENNEDY SPACE CENTER, FLA. Members of the engineering team are meeting in the Launch Control Center to review data and possible troubleshooting plans for the liquid hydrogen tank low-level fuel cut-off sensor. At left is John Muratore, manager of Systems Engineering and Integration for the Space Shuttle Program; Ed Mango, JSC deputy manager of the orbiter project office; and Carol Scott, KSC Integration Manager. The sensor failed a routine prelaunch check during the launch countdown July 13, causing mission managers to scrub Discovery's first launch attempt. The sensor protects the Shuttle's main engines by triggering their shutdown in the event fuel runs unexpectedly low. The sensor is one of four inside the liquid hydrogen section of the External Tank (ET). Image from NASA, originally appeared on this site: science.ksc.nasa.gov/gallery/photos/ Reposted by San Diego Air and Space Museum
This photo was a complete accident. I was troubleshooting an error message on my camera when I hit the shutter. However, I find something about it interesting.
1105: Back to the laser engraver... Here is the piece in the machine and again covered with masking tape...
this is the dreaded "truck roll" for phone companies. i was getting a very low rate for my ADSL line (something like 120 kbps), and Peter from Verizon came. very nice and knowledgeable guy.
1109: Done, and now ready for transfer of protruding gemstone holes from the knife itself, so that it lays flat and then Gold Leaf...
FORT CARSON, Colo. – Specialist Matthew Franklin, Bradley Fighting Vehicle system maintainer assigned to Troop C, 7th Squadron, 10th Cavalry Regiment, "Ghost," 1st Brigade Combat Team, 4th Infantry Division, troubleshoots an M2A3 Bradley Fighting Vehicle, March 15, 2012, at his battalion motorpool. Mechanics attended the M2A3 Bradley maintenance course, Feb. 29-March 9, where they conducted classroom and hands-on training to learn about the mechanical and electrical components of the Bradley. “While I was stationed in Korea, we were on a field mission when our vehicle distribution box went out, which caused our Bradley to shut off,” said Franklin. The mechanics were unable to perform checks on the vehicle to fix the problem, so the team was stuck in the field until their vehicle was towed back to base, he said.
(U.S. Army Photo by Pfc. Nathan Thome, 1st BCT PAO, 4th Inf. Div.)
Detective Modder on the lightspot again!
Previously I whined about SSIL that didn't work and I didn't know how to make it works, why it happened only to me was unknown until today..
Here what I discovered:
if you start the game with ambientocclusion=false, and then you activate it through GUI of Toggler you will only see SSAO work, but not SSIL.
You basically have to restart the game with ambientocclusion on "true" to see either SSAO and SSIL. Or at least this is what was wrong with my configuration.
I have to thank jay and its Goddess ENB to make me discover this mistery, since I forgot to set ambientocclusion to false and I found out testing its config and its values :)
P.S look who's back to celebrate my troubleshooting :P
182: I’m switching to the spindle sander now to blend the bottom rear of the bolster to the frame. I have set up the assembly on two 1”X2”X3” precision blocks. You can see that I have the main body of the knife resting primarily on one block, the second block is just under the little bit of liner that flares out from under the front bolster. There is just enough of the liner available to come in contact with the block. This is a bit tentative, so keep an eye on that forward block to make sure it doesn’t slip out from under its proper location due to the moving of the assembly around the table, as well as just from the vibration caused by the machine when on. It is important that the knife rest evenly on the two blocks to ensure level flatness, and therefore square, precise grinding.
You can see where I have taken the top area at this point; it still needs a little work, but its close. Obviously, I still need to get into that little curl, I will switch to another machine later to get into that area. You can also see on the topside, where the bottom liner is a little low, as well as the low spot in the core center section up towards the forward part of the bolster. There is a little discrepancy there, but I’m not worried about that in this case, that is where the Damascus meets the Titanium handle core. My Damascus was just not quite wide enough right there. This is not an issue on this knife, as I will later be putting a pearl inlay along this section. The inlay will cover this transition seem of where the blade meets the handle core.
Can anyone enlighten me as to why my screen might be glitching like this? It tends to do it in one window at a time, and even if I move the window, it sticks around.
This isn't the only kind of glitch I'm having, but it's the only one I've managed to capture so far.
It's also crashing like nobody's business, and I'm not even running anything too taxing on the RAM.
I'm running a Intel core 2 Duo iMac with 1 gig ram (early 2007)
The ColdFusion Troubleshooting team hits the road in Colorado's Rocky Mountains. Check the gauges. Speed on the right, and hard to see but the RPMs are at 7000 on the left. The speedometer broke 140
You should be able to easily remove this cable. Simply push outward on the two tabs that hold it in place (the photo shows the tabs pushed out and the cable BARELY in the connector). Now you can take out the power supply cable!
144: Between eyeballing the proper position according to my design, and then refining by measuring, I’m going to mark out the placement of holes to drill, by scribing an “X” at the center point.
212: From here I’m going to repeat the last steps using another slightly bigger sized drill bit measuring .0160 thousandths of an inch. It is important that opening these holes be done in stages.
Working as the BDE IMO, SSG Cortez was instrumental in facilitating and troubleshooting the implementation of the Email Migration to Microsoft 365 Desk Application for all full-time staff as well as designed and maintained the 77TH TAB Sharepoint for the brigade and subordinate unit accounts. He took ownership of the 77th TAB’s Best Warrior Competition and designed a rigorous and physically demanding program that produced a 1st runner-up competitor at the state competition. SSG Cortez volunteered over 150 hours serving as the head coach for his daughters’ soccer team and Girl Scout Troop Leader.
1140: Finished... Base plate edge laser engraved with the name of the piece, my logo, my name and date of completion.