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Welcome back to that weird thing I do where I choose a random week and post a new technique every day of that week!
This first one is another grass technique. It's fairly straightforward: Gather up a bunch of Rock 1x1 Crystal 5 Point pieces and attach a minifigure hand to each "point", then place the structures on a plate. Note that each crystal has to be 1 1/2 studs away from every other crystal, so the easiest way to set them up is to use 1x1 plates, 1x2 jumpers and 2x2 jumpers in such a way that each available stud is 1 1/2 studs away from the other nearest available studs. Also note that the crystals generally come in weird colors and so you have to hide the bottom half of the construction, but that's not all too difficult.
This technique is rather fragile. The hands bend back and forth at the slightest touch and it doesn't take much force for them to come off completely. However, the technique is still more sturdy than simply propping up minifigure hands on a studded surface, as I've seen builders do in the past.
More techniques soon to come! Some more useful than others. :P
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This is a first-round effort with light painting. I saw this technique in Digital Camera World and knew immediately I had to try it!
Here's what I had to do for this experiment. I put a dark towel on the window in our bathroom, then taped the cracks of the door so absolutely no light came into the room.
Then, I used a small spot flashlight with the cover off (so the bulb was exposed) and at ISO 100 and various shutter speeds depending on the size of each area (to avoid light burnout), I moved the flashlight around the object in the dark, while the camera was exposing the photo.
Afterward, each "layer" was added to Photoshop and put to "screen". I also did some spot erasing to areas that were washing out the light trails. The whole effort is a bit "HDR-ish".
-Added to the Cream of the Crop pool as most favorited.
Using circus techniques, pyrotechnics, and video projection to create the visualization of liberty and the joy of flying, GLOBE is an alienating, fairylike spectacle full of symbolism.
Established in 1991, Close-Act is an international street theatre company that combines various disciplines of performing arts, like dance, music and circus, with stunning visual representations.
The company performed mostly in Europe in the early years, but now present their shows and acts worldwide.*
*http://nightfestival.sg/programmes/detail/globe
This was a 1/15 second exposure at ISO 800, with flash, while panning. The flash freezes the actual sign as razor sharp, but everything else moves.
Additionally, the sky was naturally experiencing a beautiful sunset, and there are no color adjustments made.
REMEMBER: Focus on the sign, expose for the background... and use flash.
See "Technique" Group Thread: www.flickr.com/groups/technique/discuss/72157614731283915/
Technique: Sometimes the subject I'm shooting gets so use to me being close that it just goes about its business as if I'm not there. All I had to do is set the camera to under expose the natural light in the background, and I shaded the subject so that the flash was the only significant light source on the mantis (to freeze motion). Not long after I took this frame the Mantis climbed onto one of my flash diffusers :)
Tech Specs: Canon 70D (F11, 1/125, ISO 200) + a Canon EF-S 60mm macro lens with 37mm of extension + a diffused MT-24EX (flash head "A" set as the key and "B" as the fill, with the key on a Kaiser flash shoes). This is a single, uncropped, frame taken hand held.
The matte painting (which can be translated with painting backgrounds) is a technique used mainly in film used to allow the representation of landscapes or places otherwise too costly or impossible to reconstruct or reach directly.
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Ask for a preventive in my virtual shop at the site mobiliperufficio.com/Maurizio_Poli/home
Richiedete un preventico nel mio negozio virtuale al sito mobiliperufficio.com/Maurizio_Poli/home
Pnoi_APL asked for it.
This is the technique I used for the Skipper Kite and a soon-to-be-photographed MOC, as well.
No, the gap isn't completely closed, but it's real close, so I can't be arsed to find a better-fitting technique that compensates for that tiny slot.
I'm not sure if this has been done before or not, but here you go.
Some may have already seen this but I decided to upload this on my main account too, just to share. I've been thankful for a ton of behind-the-scenes pictures of other builders, so yeahā¦check out my second Acc. if you like it. :))
I've started to develop this technique in 2016 and improved it from time to time. New pieces made it less part intensive and more versatile. The technique allows to completely regulate every gap between the tiles/plates/ingots/clips/etc., to achieve an organic look without being to chaotic.
You can find this and quite a few other techniques on my Second Account/
Regards
The last of today's design scraps, I designed this capital of the Corinthian order to top this common column design: www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=2693252
SO here's some sun.. Taken in Zakynthos, Greece.. Here I used a different editing technique from my last photo to try and get the mood set. Think it may be tad dark but please
do let me know your thoughts.
Whilst taking a brief respite after climb a steep hill I saw these trees lined up and knew I wanted to claim the shot. The only shot, on this walk that wasn't shot hand held.
Just realized this is possible and wanted to keep it for future reference, as I have no direct need for it now. Hope others find it useful too. This should allow for reasonably decent angled stripes too because you could continue to go diagonal with multiple 2x2s, 3x3s or 4x4s in a row.
There are slight gaps, but not large enough to fill with Ā½ plate elements. Those gaps can be used as subtle greebling, so it's not that bad if you can make it work for you.
Note I did not have a 3x3 plate at hand but it's not required: the solution shown here is one plate higher than a single 3x3 plate would be. If you want to cover things with tiles, the extra plate height is unavoidable for 3x3 and 4x4 anyway.
You can do this with larger wedge plates too, obviously.
An interesting connection/technique I happened upon recently with the ranger hat (98279) and small dino head (40384) elements. The connection is sturdy and doesn't put the head under that much stress.
I have one idea for it, but I would love to hear your thoughts!
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I always like to improve my building techniques, so i tried my hands on a new water technique for my recent build.
In general it's the normal trans tiles + different shades of grey underground -technique, but now flowing.
To get this effect it needs a LOT of tiles and nearly twice as much 1x1 Tiles with clip.
One clip always hold two tiles together.
Using the usual tolerance of the bricks it's possible to bend the plain water into waves.
Another technique!
If this looks familiar to you, that's likely because there are two other ways to achieve this effect, namely the well-known technique of connecting 1x2 tiles with minifigure hands (which, as far as I can tell, can be attributed to Barney Main) and this technique by Simon NH. However, if you are looking for something that is sturdier than the first option and don't own a bunch of 2x2 corner tiles, this variation might work for you. The key piece here is the inverted 2x2 tile, which can be combined with 1x2 tiles and a simple support structure in back. Rotating the pieces as far as is possible to get a rougher texture helps to distinguish the individual "bricks" in the wall from one another and makes for a more interesting texture. It's also helpful to utilize two colors rather than one. I originally though that this technique would be fairly limited in terms of color, but it turns out the 2x2 inverted tile is available in light and dark bley, tan, and sand green, so you can actually achieve a fair bit of variety with this technique in terms of color.
I'll be posting more techniques in the next couple of days (because a little bit of sensationalism never hurts :P ). If you've seen this technique before, please let me know! I don't want to "claim" techniques that other people discovered before I did. In any case, feel free to use this.
I'm sure someone's probably found this before, but if not, then yay!
It moves with some stiffness, and is sturdy for minor applications.
The matte painting (which can be translated with painting backgrounds) is a technique used mainly in film used to allow the representation of landscapes or places otherwise too costly or impossible to reconstruct or reach directly.
When you go to the Texas State Fair, you MUST eat corndogs! I'm demonstrating my proper corndog eating "technique" here.
I've discovered two ways of making 5 point stars, but I'm having trouble finding uses for them because they are tricky to attach to a moc.
A couple of people here and on Eurobricks asked about the offset in the board walk on my last build. Here is a breakdown. It's something I've seen somewhere on Flickr and shamelessly copied, but I can't find my original source to give proper credit.
One of our favorite window techniques we simply haven't gotten around to using for a large scale castle yet. Play around with the various colors, Grey/Black, Black/Black, Brown/Tan, etc.
Hope you enjoy it!
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Fingerpainting:
From the name it's clear that using this technique you have to apply paint with your fingers. According to Wikipedia, it was originally formulated in 1931 as an art education medium for small children. You can find a special non-toxic paint to be used or you can prepare it yourself from flour or cornstarch.
from: blog.bootb.com/2009/09/17/fingerpainting-now-for-grown-ups/