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love this photo, this chap was tootling along about 100 feet above us, I've had to use some cropping techniques and heightened the tone of the sky on the day as it was a little flat. I love the way the angles have worked out just right, well just right for me anyway..lol
I repurposed the technique I used in my tri-fighter to create the body of this snail droid.
It took a little time to figure out the perfect number of plates to fit the circumference of the circular portion at the front, but incorporating the treads into the front 'legs' was definitely the hardest part!
The colour scheme is a bit monochrome but it's pretty much what we see in Episode 3. I found some fantastic concept art by Ryan Church that showed glowing orange from the internal mechanics but I couldn't figure out a good way to replicate it in LEGo nor include it in the construction.
Oh, and I have tryed this Chevrolet. More pictures are in the Book. (Lego Tips,Tricks and Building Techniques: The Big Unofficial Lego Builders Book)
The matte painting (which can be translated with painting backgrounds) is a technique used mainly in film used to allow the representation of landscapes or places otherwise too costly or impossible to reconstruct or reach directly.
Visit www.facebook.com/Maurizio-Poli-760405867422348/
Ask for a preventive in my virtual shop at the site mobiliperufficio.com/Maurizio_Poli/home
Richiedete un preventico nel mio negozio virtuale al sito mobiliperufficio.com/Maurizio_Poli/home
The last of today's design scraps, I designed this capital of the Corinthian order to top this common column design: www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=2693252
Some may have already seen this but I decided to upload this on my main account too, just to share. I've been thankful for a ton of behind-the-scenes pictures of other builders, so yeah…check out my second Acc. if you like it. :))
I've started to develop this technique in 2016 and improved it from time to time. New pieces made it less part intensive and more versatile. The technique allows to completely regulate every gap between the tiles/plates/ingots/clips/etc., to achieve an organic look without being to chaotic.
You can find this and quite a few other techniques on my Second Account/
Regards
Pnoi_APL asked for it.
This is the technique I used for the Skipper Kite and a soon-to-be-photographed MOC, as well.
No, the gap isn't completely closed, but it's real close, so I can't be arsed to find a better-fitting technique that compensates for that tiny slot.
I'm not sure if this has been done before or not, but here you go.
Sometimes, fireworks don't explode where you expect them... Thanks to photoshop, I develop my own technique to put them where I want them to be plus combining this with my DRI technique.
Parfois les feux d'artifices n'explosent pas toujours là où on voudrait... Grâce à photoshop, j'ai développé ma technique qui me permet de les mettre là où je les veux en la combinant à ma technique DRI.
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My technique is alway the same:
Three exposures -2EV, 0, +2EV and then temperature adjustement using Lightroom and layering with luminosity mask using photoshop. Removal of distracting stuff with the stamp tool or patch tool. High pass filter to enhance details. Then saturation, contrast selectively control, dodge and burn where need...
DRI stand for Dynamic Range Increase. Three RAW files are used to achieve this. Rather than using a software like Photomatix for instance, I simply use mask to blend, my own way, the light, dark and normal shot with Photoshop and Lightroom.. To me, It looks more natural than the usual HDR treatment that I would normally applied.
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Ma technique est toujours la même:
Trois prises de vue -2EV, 0, +2EV. Ensuite ajustement de la température de couleur avec Lightroom et usage de calques et masques de luminosités avec Photoshop. Retrait d'éléments de distraction avec l'outil tampon. Filtre High pass pour le rehaussement des détails. Ensuite saturation et contraste ajustés de façon sélectives et locales. Dodge and burn là où requis...
DRI vient de l'anglais Dynmic Range Increase, qui pourrait se traduire par étendue dynamique améliorée. Les même 3 fichiers RAW entrent dans la composition d'un DRI. Plutôt que de se servir d'un logiciel comme Photomatix qui fait tout le travail, je me sers plutôt de masques pour filtrer l'éclairage dans photoshop et Lightroom. De mon point de vue, cette façon de faire donne une image plus naturel que le traitement HDR que j'employais auparavant.
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Just realized this is possible and wanted to keep it for future reference, as I have no direct need for it now. Hope others find it useful too. This should allow for reasonably decent angled stripes too because you could continue to go diagonal with multiple 2x2s, 3x3s or 4x4s in a row.
There are slight gaps, but not large enough to fill with ½ plate elements. Those gaps can be used as subtle greebling, so it's not that bad if you can make it work for you.
Note I did not have a 3x3 plate at hand but it's not required: the solution shown here is one plate higher than a single 3x3 plate would be. If you want to cover things with tiles, the extra plate height is unavoidable for 3x3 and 4x4 anyway.
You can do this with larger wedge plates too, obviously.
I always like to improve my building techniques, so i tried my hands on a new water technique for my recent build.
In general it's the normal trans tiles + different shades of grey underground -technique, but now flowing.
To get this effect it needs a LOT of tiles and nearly twice as much 1x1 Tiles with clip.
One clip always hold two tiles together.
Using the usual tolerance of the bricks it's possible to bend the plain water into waves.
I promised this breakdown in November…
(For “distracted”)
www.flickr.com/photos/201327294@N03/54031820034/
Full instructions coming… soon?
Another technique!
If this looks familiar to you, that's likely because there are two other ways to achieve this effect, namely the well-known technique of connecting 1x2 tiles with minifigure hands (which, as far as I can tell, can be attributed to Barney Main) and this technique by Simon NH. However, if you are looking for something that is sturdier than the first option and don't own a bunch of 2x2 corner tiles, this variation might work for you. The key piece here is the inverted 2x2 tile, which can be combined with 1x2 tiles and a simple support structure in back. Rotating the pieces as far as is possible to get a rougher texture helps to distinguish the individual "bricks" in the wall from one another and makes for a more interesting texture. It's also helpful to utilize two colors rather than one. I originally though that this technique would be fairly limited in terms of color, but it turns out the 2x2 inverted tile is available in light and dark bley, tan, and sand green, so you can actually achieve a fair bit of variety with this technique in terms of color.
I'll be posting more techniques in the next couple of days (because a little bit of sensationalism never hurts :P ). If you've seen this technique before, please let me know! I don't want to "claim" techniques that other people discovered before I did. In any case, feel free to use this.
An interesting connection/technique I happened upon recently with the ranger hat (98279) and small dino head (40384) elements. The connection is sturdy and doesn't put the head under that much stress.
I have one idea for it, but I would love to hear your thoughts!
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Welcome to Day 4 of Technique Week! To balance out yesterday's complicated and piece-intensive technique, I decided to go with something much simpler today. Today's technique is a dresser using minifigure suitcases as drawers. The suitcases are 3 plates tall (minus handle), 5 plates wide and not quite 2 plates thick, so when you stack 4 of them on their sides, you get a height of about 7.5 plates. This allows me to make the entire dresser 4 studs tall but to put the bottom tile half a plate above the ground, giving the dresser legs, or feet (not sure what to call those). Ironically, even though this is my simplest technique yet, this is the first one where I didn't have enough pieces of one color, hence the black suitcase.
I think this technique is a nice alternative to the more common bucket handle drawer technique, especially for people like me who own exactly one bucket handle.
Click here for more days of Technique Week and and here for previous techniques.
EDIT (March 2020): It took me way too long to realize this, but Halhi pulled off an earlier version of this here. So this post should probably be thought of more as a publicity post for an existing technique than a showcase of a new one.
Whilst taking a brief respite after climb a steep hill I saw these trees lined up and knew I wanted to claim the shot. The only shot, on this walk that wasn't shot hand held.
I'm sure someone's probably found this before, but if not, then yay!
It moves with some stiffness, and is sturdy for minor applications.
I am trying four different techniques on this multi-photo panorama.
Town Hall Tower
Wieża Ratuszowa
Town Hall Tower in Kraków, Poland is one of the main focal points of the Main Market Square in the Old Town district of Kraków. The Tower is the only remaining part of the old Kraków Town Hall demolished in 1820 as part of the city plan to open up the Main Square. Wikipedia
Rynek Główny
The main square (Rynek Główny) of the Old Town of Kraków, Lesser Poland, is the principal urban space located at the center of the city. It dates back to the 13th century, and at 3.79 ha (9.4 acres) is the largest medieval town square in Europe. The Project for Public Spaces (PPS) lists the square as the best public space in Europe due to its lively street life, and it was a major factor in the inclusion of Kraków as one of the top off-the-beaten-path destinations in the world in 2016.
The main square is a square space surrounded by historic townhouses (kamienice) and churches. The center of the square is dominated by the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice), rebuilt in 1555 in the Renaissance style, topped by a beautiful attic or Polish parapet decorated with carved masks. On one side of the cloth hall is the Town Hall Tower (Wieża ratuszowa), on the other the 11th century Church of St. Adalbert and 1898 Adam Mickiewicz Monument. Rising above the square are the Gothic towers of St. Mary's Basilica (Kościół Mariacki).
When you go to the Texas State Fair, you MUST eat corndogs! I'm demonstrating my proper corndog eating "technique" here.
Flickr Explore Oct 26, 2011 #104
4 seconds, zoomed during exposure. alt post-production of this post.
view @ darragh.eu
De G à D:
Glacier du Nant Blanc coiffé de l'Aiguille Verte (4122m), les Drus, puis au loin l'Aiguille du Midi en premier plan du Mont Blanc, Vallée de Chamonix.
vu des Aiguilles des Grands Motets (3295m)
Chamonix
Panoramique.
Technique: I found this small snail but it wasn't active, so I put a little water on it and it came out to soak it up.
Tech Specs: Canon 70D (F14, 1/250, ISO 200) + a Canon MP-E 65mm macro lens (about 1.5x) + a diffused MT-24EX. This is a single, uncropped, frame taken hand held. I used an artificial flower for the background.
A couple of people here and on Eurobricks asked about the offset in the board walk on my last build. Here is a breakdown. It's something I've seen somewhere on Flickr and shamelessly copied, but I can't find my original source to give proper credit.
One of our favorite window techniques we simply haven't gotten around to using for a large scale castle yet. Play around with the various colors, Grey/Black, Black/Black, Brown/Tan, etc.
Hope you enjoy it!
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And here's a look at the technique used to reverse the stud connections inside.
The 1x1 piece with the thick 'o' clip is the key part. And the result is a very tight connection that can be used to quickly reverse stud direction. it's three plates thick. And depending how you line up the 'o' clips, you can have studs facing other directions too, and, they'll line up very neatly with the edges of the bricks.
Are your images sharp or slightly soft? My article Tips and Techniques for Sharp Images covers key points you need to keep in mind to achieve sharp images. You can read it at this link I hope you enjoy!
This image : Deep in the arid lands of northern Namibia, a world of sand, stone and dust, a miraculous artery of life giving water traces the entire western and central border to Angola, and graces what must count among our planet's most beautiful waterfalls in a desert environment.
Welcome to Day 9 of Technique Week! Today I get to present to you what may be my favorite technique yet.
It's a flooring pattern! Though it's inspired by legostrator's most recent technique (which you should totally check out), it's really more closely related to my own brick wall technique than anything else. The picture shows pretty well how to make it, but I'll run through the process anyways.
First, place 2 layers of 1x4 plates, one vertical and one horizontal so they form a strip that is always 4 studs wide and each plate is offset by one stud from the next. Repeat this several times. Then, attach 1x1 tiles with clip on top to the strip as shown in the picture (the red clips are oriented horizontally, the black ones vertically). Then, attach 1x2 tiles to 1x2 plates with horizontal bar, and attach those to the clips. Now, you have several strips of an offset tile-pattern. You connect those using some headlight bricks, 1x1 bricks with stud on one side and 1x1 plates as shown in the picture to offset the strips from each other by half a plate both vertically and horizontally.
I personally love this technique and definitely plan on using it in a moc sometime soon.
Click here for more days of Technique Week and and here for previous techniques.
I've also used this technique in an actual build, unlike most of my other ones. :P So you can see this one in action.
This is a new wall idea I used in my last Star Wars MOC. (www.flickr.com/photos/162558636@N03/49798867747/in/datepo...)
The plates are connected by clips, which are attached to SNOT bricks.
I think it creates a great look, what do you think?
Stay healthy!