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Just a little something I thought up while bored at work today. Testing out some techniques for a pretty big build I plan to make. This was mainly to see how a sewage drain would look on a sidewalk/gutter/road. I thought it turned out decent.
Blue is the color of twilight, specially if it's a little cloudy. The light had an irresistible appeal. I was given 5 minutes to take this picture. It felt like 5, but the clock showed 10 minutes. It does take time to pull the tripod's legs out, get the camera out, the filter on, get your horizon line straight, figure out some focus stuff, and make two or three attemps with the Magic Cloth Technique.
Exif: ISO 100 ; f/5.6 ; 9 sec ; @18mm
3 stop ND filter & MCT
I made a water tower for an upcoming build and used this technique to make it. Not sure if it's new/ of use to anyone but thought I'd post it anyway. Would work for stairs too?
I had a difficult time coming up with a workable idea for this one. All my ideas needed help from another person, but I live alone and didn't have anyone available this week. Then I went for a walk last night and saw the big full moon just coming up. I wish I could have made the moon bigger and my hand a little smaller, but I was constrained by the length of my arm. :-)
52 Weeks of 2017 - Week 27 - Theme: Forced Perspective (Technique) - Category: Creative
This was a 1/15 second exposure at ISO 800, with flash, while panning. The flash freezes the actual sign as razor sharp, but everything else moves.
Additionally, the sky was naturally experiencing a beautiful sunset, and there are no color adjustments made.
REMEMBER: Focus on the sign, expose for the background... and use flash.
See "Technique" Group Thread: www.flickr.com/groups/technique/discuss/72157614731283915/
First time i develop with stand still technique.
This is in fact semi stand still at 40 minutes(20+agitation+20) with Rodinal.
It is usually 60 min development but 60 min with Fomapan 100 would be over exposed.
Camera: Canon Prima Zoom76 that i got for free, I don't like point and shoot cameras but i must say that the results are over my expectations (exposition was spot on!). May be it is because of the development which gives a lot of details in the highlights and shadows.
Some of you asked me about the lockers which I built for the Star Wars Crew Room: flic.kr/p/2gShdgj
It isn't that complicated, I used SNOT brackets. The technic bricks are necessary to attach the lockers to the wall.
The matte painting (which can be translated with painting backgrounds) is a technique used mainly in film used to allow the representation of landscapes or places otherwise too costly or impossible to reconstruct or reach directly.
Visit www.facebook.com/Maurizio-Poli-760405867422348/
Ask for a preventive in my virtual shop at the site mobiliperufficio.com/Maurizio_Poli/home
Richiedete un preventico nel mio negozio virtuale al sito mobiliperufficio.com/Maurizio_Poli/home
Few upgrades and a new figure.
From L to R:
Poison Ivy: Never showed my Ivy close up. Made her a coat out of a Lego Pirate Ship sail. This is mostly inspired by her Arkham Asylum appearance.
Brainiac: Added the armor to see how it looked. I think it works.
Nightwing: Made him some short Escrima Sticks similar to how I made my Daredevil batons.
The Atom: Have had this guy for a while and never showed him until now. It was made by Malcolm and sent to me a while back.
Cyborg: Added armor ad gave him Finn's head.
The Arkham Knight: Despite my distaste for the game and my hatred of the character himself (Or should I say my hatred of bitch, whiny Arkhamverse Jason Todd), I gotta admit, I do like the design of the character. I just tried to experiment with a biker helmet and made this. The ears are the ends of pirate swords glued to the visor. The visor and some of the helmet were then painted. The whole reason I made it on a biker helmet was so the visor could flip up, and it can. The ears move with the visor since they are attached to it. I also painted on the Arkham Knight logo onto the chest. Kinda ironic that I put that much effort into a character I don't like.
Martian Manhunter: Made him some extended legs and arms using Billy's leg technique and my arm technique.
What do you think? Which is your favorite and why?
Shot was taken in August 2015, at Abastumani Observatory with GeoAstro team :)
I tried some new techniques during processing the final image, including StarSpikes, which I found quite useful and a lot of fun.
So first of all sorry, I didn’t post this sooner. (School) now about the build.
I really enjoyed the grain technique from Kursk v1, but I felt like the scene was missing an element of carnage. It was the biggest tank battle in history after all. The t 34 is Brickmania. I had the instructions from a book and was like why not go all Brickmania Tanks figs everything. I was also inspired to add onto this scene after watching a really cool video about anti tank tactics on the eastern front www.youtube.com/watch?v=FxJZJflMEiw One of these tactics included climbing on the back of the tank, opening the engine compartment with a hatchet and throwing a grenade into the engine compartment.
Construction criticism appreciated.
Hannover Marathon 2017
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The moto with all the technique and the photographers were as much impressive as the participants in the marathon themselves.
Pnoi_APL asked for it.
This is the technique I used for the Skipper Kite and a soon-to-be-photographed MOC, as well.
No, the gap isn't completely closed, but it's real close, so I can't be arsed to find a better-fitting technique that compensates for that tiny slot.
I'm not sure if this has been done before or not, but here you go.
Some may have already seen this but I decided to upload this on my main account too, just to share. I've been thankful for a ton of behind-the-scenes pictures of other builders, so yeah…check out my second Acc. if you like it. :))
I've started to develop this technique in 2016 and improved it from time to time. New pieces made it less part intensive and more versatile. The technique allows to completely regulate every gap between the tiles/plates/ingots/clips/etc., to achieve an organic look without being to chaotic.
You can find this and quite a few other techniques on my Second Account/
Regards
Technique I used for the cedar shingle/siding of the fishing shack MOC. Might be better suited for a roof...
The walls are 1x2 tiles, attached vertically to 1x6 horizontal plates. I overlaped those assemblies, spacing them 1.5 studs apart (using a 1/2 stud offset plate in back). This allows you to randomly slide/stagger each individual tile.
Just realized this is possible and wanted to keep it for future reference, as I have no direct need for it now. Hope others find it useful too. This should allow for reasonably decent angled stripes too because you could continue to go diagonal with multiple 2x2s, 3x3s or 4x4s in a row.
There are slight gaps, but not large enough to fill with ½ plate elements. Those gaps can be used as subtle greebling, so it's not that bad if you can make it work for you.
Note I did not have a 3x3 plate at hand but it's not required: the solution shown here is one plate higher than a single 3x3 plate would be. If you want to cover things with tiles, the extra plate height is unavoidable for 3x3 and 4x4 anyway.
You can do this with larger wedge plates too, obviously.
An interesting connection/technique I happened upon recently with the ranger hat (98279) and small dino head (40384) elements. The connection is sturdy and doesn't put the head under that much stress.
I have one idea for it, but I would love to hear your thoughts!
✌️
I always like to improve my building techniques, so i tried my hands on a new water technique for my recent build.
In general it's the normal trans tiles + different shades of grey underground -technique, but now flowing.
To get this effect it needs a LOT of tiles and nearly twice as much 1x1 Tiles with clip.
One clip always hold two tiles together.
Using the usual tolerance of the bricks it's possible to bend the plain water into waves.
I took this tulip field shot in Konya, Turkey. I had a hard time in post, which Photoshop didn't made a good job of blending focus points, and I stacked 6 focus points manually. Also blended some exposures for dynamic range with luminosity selections and luminosity masking techniques.
Another technique!
If this looks familiar to you, that's likely because there are two other ways to achieve this effect, namely the well-known technique of connecting 1x2 tiles with minifigure hands (which, as far as I can tell, can be attributed to Barney Main) and this technique by Simon NH. However, if you are looking for something that is sturdier than the first option and don't own a bunch of 2x2 corner tiles, this variation might work for you. The key piece here is the inverted 2x2 tile, which can be combined with 1x2 tiles and a simple support structure in back. Rotating the pieces as far as is possible to get a rougher texture helps to distinguish the individual "bricks" in the wall from one another and makes for a more interesting texture. It's also helpful to utilize two colors rather than one. I originally though that this technique would be fairly limited in terms of color, but it turns out the 2x2 inverted tile is available in light and dark bley, tan, and sand green, so you can actually achieve a fair bit of variety with this technique in terms of color.
I'll be posting more techniques in the next couple of days (because a little bit of sensationalism never hurts :P ). If you've seen this technique before, please let me know! I don't want to "claim" techniques that other people discovered before I did. In any case, feel free to use this.
I'm working on a new Moc and I found this orignal technique to build flower bushes. I don't know if this technique has already been used by other builders - probably I guess.
Welcome to Day 4 of Technique Week! To balance out yesterday's complicated and piece-intensive technique, I decided to go with something much simpler today. Today's technique is a dresser using minifigure suitcases as drawers. The suitcases are 3 plates tall (minus handle), 5 plates wide and not quite 2 plates thick, so when you stack 4 of them on their sides, you get a height of about 7.5 plates. This allows me to make the entire dresser 4 studs tall but to put the bottom tile half a plate above the ground, giving the dresser legs, or feet (not sure what to call those). Ironically, even though this is my simplest technique yet, this is the first one where I didn't have enough pieces of one color, hence the black suitcase.
I think this technique is a nice alternative to the more common bucket handle drawer technique, especially for people like me who own exactly one bucket handle.
Click here for more days of Technique Week and and here for previous techniques.
EDIT (March 2020): It took me way too long to realize this, but Halhi pulled off an earlier version of this here. So this post should probably be thought of more as a publicity post for an existing technique than a showcase of a new one.
I'm sure someone's probably found this before, but if not, then yay!
It moves with some stiffness, and is sturdy for minor applications.
When you go to the Texas State Fair, you MUST eat corndogs! I'm demonstrating my proper corndog eating "technique" here.
Male of Megachile (Chalicodoma) parietina.
Technique: It was a cool day (18C) with partly cloudy skies and intermittent light showers -perfect weather to go looking for solitary bees since they'll have a tough time keeping their metabolism up. I got lucky and found this Mason bee semi-dormant in my Lavender.
Tech Specs: Canon 80D (F11, 1/250, ISO 100) + a Canon MP-E 65mm macro lens (around 3x) + a diffused MT-24EX (both flash heads on the Canon flash mount, E-TTL metering). This is a single, uncropped, frame taken hand held. I used an artificial flower to keep the background from being black. I n post I used Topaz Labs Sharpen AI, Denoise AI, and Clarity.