View allAll Photos Tagged stepbysteps
this stroke is certainly life changing,but i have too take it step by step so i thought this photo was most appropiate just because i was in hospital for over 4 months dont mean i just sat or did nopthing,i had phisio daily to learn too walk again because it paralised my left side,also i kept busy writing some poems in which some of the staff and patients wanted some and asked how much i sai nothing its the least i could do too make someone happy whilst being in hospital for so long even over christmas and new year ,so i havent been able too take any photos of late because also i am wheelchair bound toobut i did join the painting therapy group which was 3 times a week which i produced some lovely work but this photo i love the feeling of distance and colours of the tiles,hope you like it too?
Место отправки - Ковров - maps.google.com/?q=56.3667,41.3333&z=16 от lexnett75 оригинал - www.instagram.com/p/BGENnGAxj9x/
Wonder if I should add beads to the top Fly stitches? Green rhinestones and oil slick beads on the gold braid.
10 Likes on Instagram
2 Comments on Instagram:
cafe_johnsonia: I love that place!
freshmelissa: Awesome pic!
Here's a quick display of how I did the floral design on the body.
1. Olympic White added to the original Fiesta Red base.
2. Wet sanded the gloss off and lightly sketched out the design in pencil.
3. Painted in the color sections. (first of 2 coats of color shown here)
4. Added black paint, then lightly steel wooled to get rid of any remaining pencil... then many coats of lacquer and wet sanding to get a nice gloss back.
This picture shows the jig I made to make the large triangle. It has to be adjusted to the right angle so four pieces fit and make a square with no gaps. The size has to be adjusted so it fills the space between the tips of the diamonds.
Flickr user JeremyHall left me a comment on my 'Freezer' photo asking me to post some information on what post-processing I did in his new group, 'How I Did It'... so I am doing just that!
The final photo can be seen here.
I started with three separate images taken with the Canon 40D. I was using Auto Exposure Bracketing, with the camera set to take exposures at -2,0,+2 EV.
(Side note for 40D users! The exposure bracketing on the 40D won't go any further that +-2, but one cool thing that I've found is that you can rotate the control wheel so your middle exposure is set to -2, and your three bracketed shots will actually be -4,-2,0 EV. Scroll the wheel all the way to the other end of the spectrum and you'll have +4, +2, 0 EV... so effectively you've taken five shots between -4 and +4 with two shutter presses!)
So I took those three exposures and used Photoshop to automatically align them. I shot these with a timer on a tripod, so there was no movement between shots... but in cases where there is movement, I find Photoshop does a much better job than Photomatix at aligning the images.
Save that as a tif, open in Photomatix for tonemapping. Really I have found that every photo requires different settings in Photomatix, but all the sliders and options are laid out in plain view so it's very easy to experiment. Recently I've found that I like to 'over-HDR' the image and then selectively scale it back in Photoshop. So the photo labeled 'Photomatix Tonemap' in the image above was really never meant to be seen by anyone other than me :D I dislike that kind of overdone-HDR shot, and if I wasn't planning on doing any other work after tonemapping, I would have set the overall HDR effect much lower. HDR can really help a shot with a wide range of tones, from dark to light... but the downside is all the extreme highlights and shadows are kind of being evened out, which can make things look flat (to me). For example, look at the ceiling in the image labeled 'Photomatix Tonemap' above. The ceiling is nice and detailed, but it also appears that it's getting just as much light as the freezer in the foreground (which you can see is not the case from the original photos). More on this later.
I saved the tonemapped image to another tif, and brought it into Lightroom. There I changed some things which might seem strange. I took the color saturation of the image almost to zero. Then I made large adjustments to the 'Camera Calibration' section to give a cyan cast to the entire image. Then I worked with the 'Split Toning' section to make the shadows a dark blue-purple, and the highlights a yellow-green. I adjusted the tone curve a little bit and saved these adjustments to a preset called 'Decay Cold'.
I applied those presets to the original '0 EV' shot, so I had one blue-green colored tonemapped image (labeled 'Lightroom Adjusted' in the image above) and one blue-green colored original photo (labeled '0 EV Lightroom Adjusted' in the image above).
I brought both of them into Photoshop, placed the HDR shot as the top layer, and added a mask to it. Then I chose a brush with a low hardness setting and started painting over the areas I didn't want such an extreme amount of 'HDR-look'. You can see from the mask that I got rid of a lot of the HDR effect on the front of the freezer, on the ceiling, and on the back wall. I left the most HDR effect in the ice, because I thought it looked awesome :D Lastly, I placed a Brightness/Contrast adjustment layer over everything and used a gradient mask to apply it only to the ceiling - to darken it up. I think this brings back the sense of depth in the shot.
This was by far the most post-processing work I've done on a photo, but it paid off, since it became my most commented on, most favorited, and most interesting photo according to Flickr!
Leave a comment and let me know if this was useful to anyone!
New tutorial on using Styrofoam as a texturing medium! Check out the post here: artwarebywanaree.blogspot.com/2012/02/scratch-foam-textur...
Burano (Venice-Italy)
Camera: Holga CFN 120
Film: Lomography Redscale XR 50-200
Blogged here: trueblondestory.blogspot.it