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Update - March 15, 2013: These set-ups are very out-dated. I have just finished an Ebook - The Ultimate Guide to Water Drop Photography. The link to purchase is on my Facebook Page. It is very detailed from beginner to advanced.
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I've been asked for my current setup for water drop photography. This is what I have been using lately. Managed to recycle a table and desk for this. Remember - it's the end result that counts ;-) I set the timer to 5 seconds and release the drops. I get about 1 in 10 success rate. A StopShot is on my wish list.
Also, I'm not a carpenter or engineer, so this will have to do for now. Sometime, I plan to make something a little more adjustable and practical. This is in a corner of my basement (right beside the warm furnace) so I can just leave it set up like this.
I'm always changing things, so nothing ever stays permanent - this is basic.
My camera settings vary as well.
I put together a widefield setup from scraps and spare bits lying around to run as a secondary imaging rig. My main setup is a 100mm refractor on an EQ mount. My favorite star party of the year Okie-Tex is coming up, the first week of October. I want to maximize my time under the Bortle-1 skies.
This is an old Nikon D7100 from 2013, full-spectrum modified, a Rokinon 135mm prime lens, ZWO Eaf focuser, Sky-Watcher Evo-Guide, and ZWO ASI 178mm guide cam. The Nikon D7100's sensor is showing its age, but it can still get the job done with enough integration.
I like to use aluminum angle iron bolted to universal "bread plates". This way, I can mount accessories any way I need to.
I spent last Tuesday and Wednesday nights at CRO working the kinks out of this setup. After a few adjustments and swapping out guide cameras, it's working great. I tested it with APT, Backyard Nikon, PHD2 and Celestron PWI, and Cartes du Ciel.
I was able to get some data on the Nebulae near Deneb. The North America Nebula and the Pelican Nebula.
Image data:
88), 5-minute, iso-200, f/3.2 at 135mm, stacked with calibration frames. 90% of best subs stacked. Nikon D7100 (full spectrum modified), guided, stacked with DSS, processed in Pixinsight and Adobe Photoshop.
This is my view of the diorama right before I start shooting. I'm either kneeling or sitting on the ground, so I can preview how the scene will look.
Along with moving the models and accessories around, I can swivel the base to get best view in relationship with the background.
If you cover up the bottom half of this photo with your hand, the magic takes place and scene comes into focus.
I'm amazed every time it happens. Really, how is this possible?
Here you see my setup with my fake wooden floor and one reflector.
I have those two windows and then to the left in front a big glass door.
At this time I only use natural light but will get me a of camera flash.
Link to the fake wooden floor:)
This is the setup for the smoking shots with 2 SB-26 with snoots (so the light won't enter the lens) and PW, as close as possible to the incense stick, an incense stick and a plate under it so it won't burn anything, in case it falls for some reason, tripod for the camera and a black background (bought at a nearby store for 1,00 Euro), tuns the lights off and keep shooting until the incense burns out, repeat procedure until you can't stand no more the smell of the incense :)
Keep the room a little ventilate so it would not have too much smoke or else you do not get much detail and you do not fall over with the smell :)
When you photograph this Smokey things they'll turn out kind of a blueish smoke on black background sometimes could be boring and dull after 300 shots of the same thing... but then,
on Photoshop, you invert or not the image and use the Hue/Saturation to create colors of the image, also could use lasso tool on certain parts to give different colors to the smoke.
Give wings to your imagination on this...
Any help give me a line.
Enjoy !!!
Rui
Take a look at the full article on the Lighting Mods blog page.
This Pictures features in the new movie from the International award producer Dean Omori take a look at the movie here.
"I'm" kicking back while I'm setting up for a shot. Never a fun time for "me" or Jem.
This will give you a clue what's hopefully coming in a few days. It's been a time searching for a new location to shoot in, choosing lighting, making sure shadows are working and fingers aren't poking through handbags -- all the usual of good Second Life photography. And then posing, and coordinating the poses with Jemmy. We don't have nearly enough to choose 4-8 for a good photo spread in the blog, but we're trying every possibility.
Gown by Elegance Boutique; shoes by KC Couture; prop cigarette holder by JCNY Collection (vintage); headdress by Yula Finesmith (vintage); pearl jewelry by Zuri Rayna; jeweled eyebrows by PurpleMoon.
Taken on January 31, 2016 for a facebook challenge of my daily life.
Photo by Poul-Werner Dam / bit.ly/PWD_Flickr
Mk2 10X microscope lens camera setup.
Using EOS to M42 adapter £5, set of M42 extension tubes £10. M42 to RMS cone £20 and a cheapish Olympus 10X plan lens £28. All new either from Ebay or Amazon.
The narrow end makes it easier to rest the lens on my hand and get a reasonable angle on a potential subject on a surface
MacBook Air setup for my recent video on Adobe CS6
MacBook Stand: www.amazon.com/dp/B000OOYECC/ref=as_li_ss_til?tag=theadvo...
MacBook Case: www.amazon.com/dp/B004PZVE8S/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_til?tag...
Photo setup used for my latest builds.
Background: "Tupplur" roller blind from Ikea, put up on an old drying rack.
Lighting: Flash bounced off the white roof.
The gray card is used to calibrate the white balance and was removed before the final pics.
I never realized how many interesting buildings and views there are in the town I live in until I seriously started to scout around for backgrounds.
The one thing I have to do is wait until the shops close so there aren't any cars or trucks mixing in with the Elgin Park vibe.
Usually early in the morning or on the weekends is the best time.
The Holidays, though, are great because everyone leaves town so the streets tend to be empty.
When I was young, I would purposely take walks by way of short cuts and back alleys to avoid seeing people. It gave me the impression that I was the only person around.
But I must add here, I liked the fact that I could walk by an open window and hear a radio or a muted conversation, or off in the distance I could hear a train rolling by.
How interesting that decades later I would be photographing such scenes.
I know, I know, perhaps I should see a therapist. Actually I did but there were no inroads made on this particular subject.
Just think, if there were, Elgin Park might not exist!
Now that's a scary thought.
Here is the completed image: