View allAll Photos Tagged scaleability
testing out the focus calibration on the Lubitel 166b. This shot taken at 2m mark on the scale at f3.5. Everything lined up perfectly which was a surprise. I often wondered what to trust my eye (in the not so easy focus magnifier) or the distance scale.
It is clear to me now I should trust the distance scale.
While in the middle of a new project, it became clear that a stairway was necessary for part of the model.
I turned to the Web and studied how real stairs are constructed.
Gotta love the Web!
The most important part, I found out, was keeping everything inline and symmetrical. Enter the "jig" that the stairs were built upon. Nothing fancy; just a block of wood that was the correct width and length.
By taping the stringers [ the side part of the stairs ] to that wood, everything remained stable so the stair treads could be glued in place. Once everything was dried and set, the whole unit could be removed without any problems; and it's surprisingly sturdy.
Just wanted to share this!
By the way, the wood I use is Basswood. Stronger and more dense than balsa wood.
♦ Instructions available at BrickVault ♦
"I like your ship. She's a classic. Razor Crest, am I right?"
My Midi-Scale collection keeps expanding with more than a classic piece of spaceship, the legendary Razor Crest from The Mandolorian.
Made of 1,230 pieces, 30cm long, this baby ST-70 Gunship has a total of... zero stud across its entire surface, making it a true 100% SNOT build.
At such a size, replicating all the complex angles and features of the original model required advanced SNOT techniques. I really wanted to push the limits of what could be done at such a small scale.
Capturing the tapered body also required making a very compact 2 stud wide structure that could still hold everything together securely.
The ship has two display modes, "in-flight" with its canted stand, and "landed" with easy-to-install landing gear.
â–º Instructions for the Razor Crest are available at BrickVault!
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Sibley's describes these as "uncommon". He's right! ;-)
Taken in one of the Martin Ranch superb blinds - that's a full-frame crop... he is that close.
Too bad I didn't have fill flash.
Added 2 new 50' DAF flat cars to the NASA fleet, I've got a few possible plans for these: Titan SRB segment flatcars (working on getting these designed but it will take some time), a fictitious V-2 (or bumper, I haven't decided yet) transport consist or having these just be spacers. My next project that randy will be doing for me is related to this (FM is on the list but not this season) Any guesses?
A minifig scale brick built Hutt for Star Wars. Free instructions available now at rebrickable.com!
Mod it and change its colors to create new characters!
rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-102009/AlbertLee/hutt/#details
Then join us at:
swfactions.net
A LEGO Star Wars role building game.
Seen at a wildlife park in the UK. Small bird kept indoors in a sort of dry environment, there were Bee eaters in there as well. I forgot to check the sign before leaving so did not get the name. Thanks for the help Guys.
I made this scale using the pieces on the left (part of the 1/24th tea room I'm making). I'm amazed by whoever designs these kits!
this is one of 13 pics (!!!) discussing a bit minifig scale, focusing on reviving a car scale smaller than 6 wide in a fashion similar to the classic town 4 wide scale.
Scroll through the pics for a full read up if interested.
This is all my own opinion based on historic facts found in documentaries, interviews and the web. Its a suggestion in total, so pls dont feel offended if i hint out that Speed Champion usgage for professional AFOL layouts is a bit wrong ^^ I also want to set focus on a new building technique for cars that i call the "bar n clip" / "no fig".
Hope you enjoy, feedback and even heavy critique welcome and apprectiated :)
Ensign Scale Insect, possibly Orthezia urticae (Nettle Ensign Scale) or Newsteadia floccosa (Boreal Ensign Scale); visually it more closely resembles the former, though its habitat (amongst the moss at the base of a field maple tree) is more suggestive of the latter. One of several found at the same site. Monks Wood NNR, Sawtry, Cambridgeshire. October 6, 2020.
Quite a heavy crop, so beware of enlarging.
I have used a circular cutter to make 180 degree cuts in 0.040 inch styrene sheet for a couple of tunnel portals that I will install on my N scale model railroad. The cutter is made by Olfa, and I purchased it at a local art supply store rather than a hobby shop that sells train stuff. Art supply stores sell lots of tools, paints, craft items, and materials useful to a model railroader. The circular cutter has a strong, sharp compass point that is mounted on a sturdy head which has an adjustment screw. By loosening the screw, a horizontal beam can slide in or out a variable distance from the center point and then be locked down at the desired distance. The replaceable cutting blade (held into place by another screw) is mounted on the horizontal beam.
Nobody makes an N scale tunnel portal the size and shape that I want, so I had to cut my own. The tunnel opening has a radius of 8 ½ scale feet from the track center line, so that is what I set on my circular cutter. The straight vertical dimension for each side is 20 scale feet above the top on the rails plus another 3 feet for the height of the rails, crossties, and roadbed. Both of the vertical sides have to be exactly tangent to the semicircle above, so determining where to position my straight edge for the first side was the trickiest part of the whole project. From that line, I used a steel drafting triangle (also purchased from the art supply store) to place the cutting point and center compass point. I swung a 180 degree arc to locate the position of the other vertical side. My N scale ruler (shown here) is 10 scale feet wide, so my first vertical cut was 10 scale feet from the edge of the styrene sheet. After the circular cut and both vertical cuts were completely through the plastic, I could easily remove the excess from each side.
Figuring the geometry of where to position my circular cutter and the straight edge to guide my razor blade required a lot of thought before doing any of the actual cutting. Once I began cutting, I had to be careful to keep my blades in the right places, but the cutting itself was very repetitive and time consuming. Each tunnel portal required an hour or two of MANY short, little cuts before I broke through the plastic sheet. Then there was sanding to smooth it out and trimming the overall piece to fit the future mountain that I haven’t built yet. This photo shows the positioning of the circular cutter, but I took the photo after the job was done (and my nails repainted). For all this cutting, I used my Dupli-Cutter to hold my work in place. The Dupli-Cutter has clamps that can be positioned in several places, an adjustable slide sheet held down by the clamps, and a frame whose jaws can be opened up to hold various thicknesses of plastic for making precise, square cuts.
@ Grote Kerk Loenen
Genootschap: PKN Hervormde Gemeente Loenen aan de Vecht.
Provincie: Utrecht.
Gemeente: Stichtse Vecht
Land: Nederland
Light window from the top floor of the SFMOMA. The window opening is nearly 20 feet in diameter. The amazing structure of the center column in the museum hides scale of everything unless a person is near it. This, for that matter, could be 2" in diameter.
brilliant architecture and design.
Hasselblad 500c/m
Kodak 400TX Pro
Kodak Tmax Dev 1:4 @ 8min : 180 slow rotation for 7 seconds every min.