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This is a solution to the Reverse Engineering Contest's week 6 Box
This uses 15 1x1 w/ stud one one side (grey). Also 9 1x1 bricks (plain) - yellow here. Those and one 1x1 tile comprise the three center rings. The two caps hold it together. Two 1x1 travis bricks (red) and a 1x1 round plate w/ ctr hole are held together by a 24mm long flex hose. The 2x2 tile w/ ctr studs (green) and 1x1 round tiles (trans-orange) then click onto the ends.
The offset of the center ring is done with the 1x1 tile held by one of the 1x1 w/ side stud. The other two 1x1s w/ side stud are there to keep the ring centered side-to-side.
I know this works as I have a working (but ugly) model. I just mentioned last week that I can't find any of my plain 1x1 bricks, and now this... I cludged together a cube using all the grey ones I could find (12) and some 1x1 technics for the 1x1s and a few 1x1 w/ 2 studs on opp sides for the missing grey ones. All the working surfaces are the same, but my model has a few extra studs sticking out and holes all over.
This is a reverse engineering of the exemplar at www.flickr.com/photos/ltdemartinet/16904831285/in/pool-13... .
This uses one 1x2 down bracket (99781). The purple plate is for clarity and could be replaced with a 1x4 plate.
The 1x1s exposed are mirrored on the other side. The black is a 1x1 with studs on two sides. Tan is a 1x1 technic which illegally has a half-pin as well as a stud in it. That makes the pin stick out exactly the right amount to put the other side flush.
I bought some of these little unknown cameras from Goldmine Electronics a while back, just recently got around to taking off the lens and trying to identify the camera.
Product page: www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G17609
This is a pretty simple but configurable 640x480 resolution camera.
Initially looking closer at the die, I found a Micron logo, and looking around for sensors found one that looks exceptionally similar, www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MT9V131C12STC
If that's it (And it certainly looks like it, in much closer pictures I've taken) - then we have full documentation :)
The cable's connection is a pretty standard 20-contact .5mm pitch layout, and the connection area is about 0.25mm thick. It should be compatible with many existing connectors, like this one: www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/2-1734592-0/A100287CT-N...
Treating pin 1 as the closest pin to the camera, the pinout is as follows:
1) GND
2) V+ (2.8V)
3) GND
4) DOUT7
5) DOUT4
6) DOUT6
7) DOUT5
8) DOUT3
9) DOUT2
10) DOUT1
11) DOUT0
12) STANDBY
13) RESET#
14) S_DATA
15) FRAME_VALID
16) LINE_VALID
17) SCLK
18) EXTCLK
19) PIXCLK
20) GND
Despite the apparent misarrangment of DOUT pins, I'm pretty sure this is correct, have been over the traces several times to doublecheck...
Some other notes:
RESET# is wired to V+
No access to DOUT_LSB*
S_ADDR tied to V+, selecting R0xB8 address.
OE# tied to GND
I'm probably going to try to interface with this camera sometime in the future, but for now releasing the data I've found- Let me know if you do anything with it!
This is a work in progress reverse-engineering of the Lego Mindstorms ABB IRB120 robot arm.
All credits goes to Lasse S. Lauesen and Kenneth R. Madsen
Link to original model: www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-lioiiO7vE
This is a reverse engineering of the exemplar at www.flickr.com/photos/ltdemartinet/16281804833/ .
It is a cross-eye freeview 3D exploded diagram.
After I finished the explosion, I realized that if you have jumper plates (3794) instead of the 1x1 plates attached to the clip plates, it is much stronger.
The illegal bit is that it is held together by half-stud connections. To assemble this:
1. Assemble the bottom group completely.
2. Attach the clip plates and the jumpers to the top tile.
3. Loosely attach the column of two 1x1 plates to the top (no more than half the stud in)
4. Press the top firmly down onto the bottom. The outside stacks will hit the outer bricks and give the correct height. The center column will attach by half the bottom stud. This is still quite firm.
5. Press the top 1x4 tiles into place. The clips will hold them firmly and the jumpers will keep them in the right position.
For the best stability, when building the bottom section, press the 2x2 jumper tile down only half-way. That will still give a quite strong connection and will also increase the depth of stud penetration in the column. When built this way, I could drop it from several inches without any problems arising.
>> Never mind; I found the actual way to build this: www.flickr.com/gp/infrapinklizzard/395Njh <<
This would have failed anyway, as when Ryan said "no gaps" he meant the bottom must be a smooth surface.
This is a reverse engineering of Joshua Christenson's inverted Lowell sphere. I have endeavored to improve it by removing stud collisions at the eight corners. I only partially succeeded.
My earlier attempt (two years ago) had six corners with two studs colliding and two with none colliding. www.flickr.com/photos/infrapinklizzard/16967306339/
This one has only four corners with two studs colliding and four corners with none colliding. This is the theoretical best I can find with the current Lego pieces.
The solution is at www.flickr.com/photos/infrapinklizzard/16977316798/
This is a reverse engineering of the exemplar at www.flickr.com/photos/ltdemartinet/16355220154/.
When I realized the "No Technic Brick" rule had been repealed, I knew I had a chance to make this tighter. So here it is with a technic brick and one instance of half-studdery. (And one instance of 7/8 tubery?!?)
The bottom half of the middle is the same as the exploded top. The wheel (3464) fits into the technic brick by 1/2 stud. The other stud of the wheel then connects to the leftmost layer of yellow. (When building it's best to connect it to the plate first, leaving it out about 1/4 stud. Then when assembling it to the technic brick, it will seat the rest of the way.)
The minifig goblet connects to the technic brick. Then for strongest grip, the 1x1 round plate attaches to the tiles on the right. When put together, the "tube" of the 1x1 round plate will insert about 7/8 into the goblet top.
And since the rule changed after I had been bashing my head on it, I'm tagging you, Ryan, so you'll have to see it. :P
This is a work in progress reverse-engineering of the Lego Mindstorms ABB IRB120 robot arm.
All credits goes to Lasse S. Lauesen and Kenneth R. Madsen
Link to original model: www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-lioiiO7vE
This is a reverse-engineering, made in 2016.
All credits goes to nobu_tary
Link to original model: www.flickr.com/photos/127525305@N02/21726368266/in/album-...
Here is a solution to the Reverse Engineering 3's week 6 bonus.
The exploded view is color coded. Yellow is tiles, green is plates, and grey is 1x1 w/ stud on one side.
The red is the key to this assembly: an old piece - the 1x1 plate w/ vertical clip (thin open-O) (part 4085a). This (and not any of its later counterparts) will fit into the bottom of a 1x brick.
Each of the three center rings are built separately and are held together by the ends and center assembly.
The ends are basic and made traditionally of plates and tiles.
The center stalk is made with another unusual part. It is comprised of two 1x1 plates (green), two 1x1 x 2/3H round brick w/ Scala base (yellow), and one half-bush (blue) for spacing. Through the center goes a flex hose (white). The square plates and the tabs on the Scala pieces keep the center rings from twisting.
This is a reverse engineering of the exemplar at www.flickr.com/photos/ltdemartinet/16355220154/.
Note that this was made when the "No Technic" was said to include technic bricks. Grr. My modified construction (even though this one passed) is at www.flickr.com/gp/infrapinklizzard/5Q2t32
The ugly stuff at the top is the IRL model I made that is functionally the same, but butt ugly. Most of my LEGO is on the other side of the country. I only brought (most of) my snot pieces and some sets. I had to raid a set for the two One Rings. As you can see, I am pathetically short of even common bricks.
The concept - the rings hold on the two sides and the center column holds on the two ends. The column consists of a 1x1 with studs on opposite sides (light grey) and a headlight brick (light blue). In the center is a 3L bar. That strengthens it and also keeps the top plate-with-a-hole in the correct position.
I wasn't sure the rings would be very secure as the one I already had was a bit loose, but the two I got from a newer set are quite firm. When pressed together it made the pleasant scrunching sound of tight connections. It was also surprisingly difficult to pry apart.
This is a reverse-engineering.
All credits goes to Henry Pinto
Link to original model: www.flickr.com/photos/145406000@N04/50236735686/in/photos...
This is the schematic for transmitting (once the PTT button is pressed) notice the speaker is used as a microphone.
This is a reverse-engineering.
All credits goes to Joe Meno
Link to original model: www.flickr.com/photos/brickjournal/11496972105/in/album-7...
This is a reverse-engineering.
All credits goes to Henry Pinto
Link to original model: www.flickr.com/photos/145406000@N04/50236735686/in/photos...
This is a reverse-engineering.
All credits goes to Joe Meno
Link to original model: www.flickr.com/photos/brickjournal/11496972105/in/album-7...
This is a reverse-engineering.
All credits goes to
Tyler Clites
Link to original model: www.flickr.com/photos/legohaulic/49818199421/in/photostream/
The eyes from a shot I saw in a time magazine that I'd like to replicate.
The easiest way to get an idea of a lighting setup is to look at the
reflections in a subject's eyes.
In this shot I see an octobox (or similar) high up, which could be the key
light. To the left and right are what appear to be bare strobes, but are
probably small beauty dishes. Finally, it looks like a ringlight was used
for fill.
I'm not totally sure on this, of course, which is why I say the eyes only
give you an idea of the setup. They only show what's lighting the front of
the subject, and don't really indicate power levels; this is worked out by
studying shadows on the subject, as well as some experimentation.
This is a reverse-engineering.
All credits goes to Joe Meno
Link to original model: www.flickr.com/photos/brickjournal/11496972105/in/album-7...
This is a reverse engineering of the exemplar at www.flickr.com/photos/ltdemartinet/16281804833/ .
Right after I posted my first solution, I had a brainstorm. And so, this is how the thing is actually put together. So simple -- if you remember about that new piece. (I don't have any on this side of the country.)
This is a reverse-engineering.
All credits goes to Joe Meno
Link to original model: www.flickr.com/photos/brickjournal/11496972105/in/album-7...
This is a reverse engineering of the exemplar at www.flickr.com/photos/ltdemartinet/16773339758/ .
The reds are plain 1x1s, the blues are travis bricks. All the greens are 1x1 plates; the dark ones get attached to the travis bricks, the light ones to the 2x4 tiles.
When this gets assembled, the two travis-columns with end pieces get set together (they don't connect to each other). Then the tiles with the 1x1 plates get added onto the sides.
Their connections to the travis bricks make two solid units. Their half-stud connections to the other 1x1 plates don't provide gripping-strength, instead they provide trapping to keep the two units together (quite firmly).
This is not the same as the original inside.
The JB-3 was the 1945 product of reversed engineering by Repbulic at Farmindale of the German Fieseler Fi 103A-1 (V-1) unmanned flying bomb. It got its nickname from the distinctive sound of its pulse-jet engine.
This is a reverse-engineering.
All credits goes to
Tyler Clites
Link to original model: www.flickr.com/photos/legohaulic/49874747658/in/photostream/