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The second step usually ends up being this "tunneling" effect. Just copy the layer and shrink.. on and on and on...
Pretty simple.
THIS IS PART OF A SERIES ON MY PERSONAL PROCESS ... GO TO THIS LINK TO VIEW THE FULL SERIES www.flickr.com/photos/thirddesign/sets/72157626629147675/...
Now a rotated and blended version of #7 gives us the final pattern... I like it... I think.
Maybe one more edit.
THIS IS PART OF A SERIES ON MY PERSONAL PROCESS ... GO TO THIS LINK TO VIEW THE FULL SERIES www.flickr.com/photos/thirddesign/sets/72157626629147675/...
I am currently on a mission to recreate some Edwardian looks. Quarantine has given all too much extra free time and in doing so I have decided to work more in the historical arena.
DOWNLOAD THE FREE SEWING PATTERN FROM MY SHOP
That being said, underwear is critical to the historical silhouette. I have been working from the skin out - chemise, drawers, corset, etc. In building my corset and with some amazing help from the great folk at Foundations Revealed - I have learned that so much of the silhouette is about faking it. To get that Gibson Girl Edwardian silhouette, I knew I would need some help in the bust and the bum. Bust was not too bad as I have some silicon inserts that worked rather well to help me out there. The bum - that was another story.
Front View - No Hip Pad
Back View - No Hip Pad
I started doing some research and came across the Scott hip pad. I liked the idea of it, but for some reason I felt I wanted to research more. Google patents to the rescue!
I searched google patents for the word bustle and put in a date range from 1900 to 1910. That is the era I am working in, so I figured I would get inspired by something that was created in that time period. After spending way too much time down the patents rabbit hole - I discovered Patent US702158A.
First Page of Patent No. US702158A
This little invention is a combined bustle and hip form - according to Charles H Scott (the inventor).
#bustle #cosplaysewingschool #edwardian #freepattern #hippad #historical #patternmaking #patterning bit.ly/2V085Ie
Garments Designing In India
Definition of garment:
What is garment? It is a common question for many people. Actually a garment is a piece of clothing which is manufactured by fabric or textile materials for protecting human body and decorated purpose. These materials can be natural, cellulose and synthetic fibers. There are many types of garments like woven or knitted with different names and uses. Garments can both metaphorically and literally bear the imprint of its wearers as objects that have been worn, carried or used to adorn, their persons.
Classification of Garments:
Garments could be classified based on several aspects as there is no standard classification system available. However, the garments could be classified based on the gender as male or female, or age as children’s garments. Generally, based on use, style and material, different varieties of garments show different styles.
Garments Pattern Making Methods
Pattern Making
Pattern making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical ability, and a sensitivity to interpret a design with a practical understanding of garment construction. For successful dress designing pattern making forms the fundamental step. This function connects design to production by producing paper templates for all components such as cloth, hemming, fusible etc. which have to be cut for completing a specific garment.
Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or more curves of the human figure. Pattern making is a bridge function between design and production. A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which interprets the design in the form of the garment components. A pattern is flat while the body is not. The body has height, width and depth. Within this roughly cylindrical framework there are a series of secondary curves and bulges, which are of concern to the pattern maker. Darts are the basis of all pattern making. They convert the flat piece of cloth into a three dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body.
A pattern maker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a two dimensional fashion illustration. The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern making, fit and design are based. The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort.
Methods of Pattern Making
Pattern making involves three methods-
1. Drafting
2. Draping
3. Flat paper pattern making
01. Drafting: It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate measurements taken on a person, dress or body form. Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances are marked on paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern. Drafting is used to create basic, foundation or design patterns.
MEASUREMENTS
Bust – measure just under the arms around the fullest part of chest.
Waist – measure around narrowest part of torso.
High Hip – measure 6 inches [15.5 cm] below waist around the hips.
Back-waist length – measure from nape of neck to waist level
Shoulder length – measure shoulder from ball socket to side of neck.
Armhole depth – measure from nape of neck to under arm level.
Back width – measure from armhole to armhole across shoulder blades.
Neck – measure around base of neck.
Tools use for Drafting
A: Tape Measure
This is likely something you already have in your stash, because if you have been making clothing you should have been measuring your body along the way! If not, pick up a good quality fiberglass tape measure today so you can start your pattern making off right with correct body measurements.
B: Seam Ripper
Like the tape measure, you probably have a seam ripper. You will use this in pattern making for taking out your basting stitches when you move from the muslin fitting to the pattern drafting stage.
C: Fine Point Sharpie Marker
Muslin versions are always ugly because they are marked up, but you want to make your markings with a permanent and fine point. I like these push-button fine point sharpie pens as the cap always seems to get lost in my studio! These are quick and easy to use.
D: Tracing Wheel
To take your markings from the muslin stage to the pattern making stage, this tool will pierce through the paper and leave behind marks to draft with a mechanical pencil.
E: Rotary Cutter
I like using my rotary cutter for the big broad strokes of cutting muslin. Make sure to use a cutting mat beneath your item to protect the cutting surface of the table underneath!
F: Fabric Scissors
Sharp, high-quality scissors are used for all your fabric cutting in sewing and patternmaking. These will shape the muslin down to the proper size after you have cut it big and broad with the rotary cutter.
G: Tracing Paper
I personally do not use this, but many designers like it for leaving marks behind on their muslins. I like a sharpie or tracing wheel, but try these sheets out and perhaps you will love them! Many people do.
H: Scotch Tape
It is inevitable that you will need to tape pattern pieces together and I find that basic Scotch tape is the best for this.
I: Clear Rulers
Having a variety of clear rulers in different shapes and sizes is essential in your kit for pattern making. I like having a little one for marking in tiny areas, long ones for making marks for pin tucks, side seam lines, and other parts of the pattern making process that call for something longer than average. I also have a quilting square with diagonal lines for helping square up corners and creating angles.
J: Right Angle
This is also a huge help in creating perfect 90 degree angles on your pattern. These are also available in clear plastic, which most people prefer. I have had this black one since art school and still use it.
K: Curved Rulers
To shape arm holes, hip curves, hems and other lines that are not straight in pattern making, it is essential that you have a few different curved rulers to get the proper slope in your pattern.
The good news is these jeans fit my butt awesome (and I finished them in time for my patternmaking class tonight, when they are due). The bad news is the crotch does not fit (and I'm probably going to get another B+, dammit!). But it's too big and not too small, so there is a silver lining. I have some ripping and snipping — and adjusting my self-drafted pattern — to do. Lucky for me I have a professor who can tell me how to fix!
Now I'm seeing the pattern. Took #5 and mirrored it with a nice blending effect.
I can work a pattern from this...
THIS IS PART OF A SERIES ON MY PERSONAL PROCESS ... GO TO THIS LINK TO VIEW THE FULL SERIES www.flickr.com/photos/thirddesign/sets/72157626629147675/...
Little fluffy bird Titmouse sing their spring songs 🌸🎶 on the twigs of pussy willow. ift.tt/2NgPliL #tanistaja #tanistaja_pattern #spoonflower #spoonflowermakers #textiledesign #textile #patterndesign #ornaments #fabric #surfacedesign #pillow #bedding #tablecloth #curtain #napkin #wallpaper #wrappingpaper #originaldesign #homedecor #patternmaking #patterns #patternlover #sewingpattern #fashionprint #sewcialist #sewsewsew #forsewing #fabricartist #pussywillow #titmouse via Instagram ift.tt/2GB9O13
Klick Link For Read Online Or Download Patternmaking for Fashion Design and DVD Package Book : bit.ly/2eHIJKC
Feature
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Renowned for its comprehensive coverage, exceptional illustrations, and clear instructions, this hallmark book offers detailed yet easy-to-understand explanations of the essence of patternmaking. Hinging on a recurring theme that all designs are based on one or more of the three major patternmaking and design principles—dart manipulation, added fullness, and contouring—it provides all the relevant information necessary to create design patterns with accuracy regardless of their complexity. Sewing guides included for the pleated trouser (with pattern layout), belt/loops, pockets, and zipper; the jean pant with pockets, countour belt, and fly front; and the gusset. Updated jacket foundation draft includes fabric preparation, interfacing, chest piece, tape control, and shoulder pads. Pant drafts—Trouser draft including pocket, waistband, and loop;
A collection by fashion design student Kelly Lee Jamieson while attending the Blanche Macdonald Centre.
Rosie skirt from Design-It-Yourself Clothes. I'm working my way through the book to teach myself patternmaking. Rosie Skirt
Read more about this sewing and pattern drafting project here: projecthallway.wordpress.com/2010/10/13/two-wool-skirts-d...
Visual Identity System & Design
for your own design, go to : www.dukdesign.com
or email: dukdesign@gmail.com
For fit reasons my basic skirt is a mix of drafting instructions from both DIY Clothes and Building Patterns