View allAll Photos Tagged multitool
This Beavertail was across the road from the Cactus Garden, where there were just as many or more Cholla, but there weren't any trails that were kept clean of fallen cactus, so I, once again, was gentlemanly and let others shoot before me. Later, when several of us were making fun of James Neeley for picking up a brand in his shoe, Ireena backed into another one, which I quickly (for some things, I want to be first) volunteered to remove. I always carry a small multitool with me for just that purpose. :-) During the process, I proceeded to pick up two in my own boot. We were like a bunch of Keystone Cops.
The light was quite harsh when we shot these, so we used a diffuser to soften the light and a reflector to fill in the shadows in the lower left quadrant. I'm really pleased with the results.
Which did I buy - Macro Lens ($600) vs Extension Tubes ($30)?
I'll let you guess.
If it helps you work it out, I have just bought a 18mm f2 prime lens (not a macro lens). The softness around the edge of the frame should give it away.
And, by-the-way, a single Fuji extension tube is $87.00. I didn't buy one of those either.
October 19, 2017 | www.breakfastinamerica.me | Copyright © 2017 Gary Allman, all rights reserved
pouch, crank bros multi-tool, pedros tire levers, park tools super patch, planet bikes red zeppelin CO2 + valve.
Don’t get soft when it comes to Old Man Winter – he is sneaky, often bad tempered and can show up when you least expect him. Before you even leave the house, make sure you have a winter emergency kit in the back of your car.
Taken for The Machine Gun Nest opening in Frederick MD.
The important things I wanted to test with this simple setup were:
1) do these things work at all?
2) how strong are they (roughly)
3) how straight are the rods going to be?
4) how precisely will the "nut" move along the threads?
5) how fast can these things go?
I did get one of the actuators working, and it works great. It's strong enough to move whatever I'm going to give, which is great for only 5v. The rods were a little off-center, but I was able to gently bend them back to "straight enough." Whatever the nut gets clamped to will hold the rod firmly in place, so I'm not worried about that. The precision is tied to the speed. These are almost too precise for me. In fact, I'm going to go out on a limb and say they're most definitely more than I'll need. These are accurate enough to place grains of fine sand next to each other. According to the spec sheet, one step = a linear movement of .00012" (.003048mm), which is incredible.
In the stamp code, I left a variable delay between steps. If I set this to 0, the motor would sing, meaning it wouldn't move at all, but the shaft would vibrate in place fast enough to emit a high pitch tone. If I set it to 5, it moved slowly, but wasn't very strong. If I put in a delay of 10ms, I got what seemed to be the optimum movement, but here's the bad part. With a 10ms delay between steps, it took the nut over 256 seconds to move across its entire threaded rod, which is only about 6" long. That's over 4 1/4 minutes!
Hopefully I'll get better results with the PIC microcontroller. Both the stamp and PIC are 20MHz, but it's been my observation that the PIC does things far more quickly. There might be more to the stamp's timing that I'm not understanding, which is very likely with me, but honestly, I don't hold out hope for making these things very much faster. I'm considering upping the voltage a bit, even though I was using 5v here, and they're rated for 5v. If I keep it stepping at a higher rate, perhaps the PWM effect of a higher frequency of shorter bursts will allow me to move them more quickly without killing them. I'm wondering if I can ramp up voltage with stepping speed, such that for more intricate areas, I use less, and and 5v when I come to a stop, but maybe when it's cruising at top speed, it's using more like 9v. Does that make any sense?
One future problem will be if I decide to engrave or sculpt anything, or carve out my own printed circuit boards (a small dream I've had since high school), I'll need something like a Dremel multitool, which is loud. With this thing going so slowly, it will have to run for hours, perhaps even a day or two to finish up. I live in an apartment, and can't subject my neighbors to that kind of punishment. I've considered options like building a sound-proof box, which has much of its own appeal, but who knows what I'll eventually decide. Either way, I don't think I really want to leave a Dremel running overnight.
Pocket dump picture with Victorinox Alox Pioneer Swiss Army Knife, Atwood Bermuda Triangle, Atwood 5-fluted lanyard bead in copper
Fuji S5500
The original image can be viewed here:
www.flickr.com/photos/eztobyd/3737037178/in/set-721576225...
For information on the Leatherman Charge visit:
www.leatherman.com/products/product.asp?id=6&f=6&c=1
For information on Fractalius visit:
This bride was looking for a bottle opener. I always carry a multitool on me so I opened the bottle. Then we made htis image.
Petersen Mfg. Co. Vise-Grip 6LC large capacity locking pliers x Schrade Toolbox Multi-Tool with leather sheath made in Dewitt Nebraska, USA
Popped into Mr Minit for a perv of the new stock . Me Minit had one he had been using for awhile and offered it to me at a discount at $220 I offered him $150 cash which he took with another $20 on credit card…
Just rotated from vertical
to Landscape mode.. 13-06-25
The Bond is similar with internal tools..
www.amazon.com.au/Leatherman-Multitool-Comfortable-Minima...
This item: Leatherman Bond Multitool 14-in-1 - Pliers, Knife, Screwdrivers & Sheath, 4" Closed Length - Stainless Steel - Ideal For EDC, DIY & Home Repairs
4.64.6 out of 5 stars 333
$126.00
Yesterday I popped into Lidl to get some malt loaf as Tesco were out of stock.
While I was there I saw this multitool for only £4.99. Sadly it is not of the best quality - one gets what one pays for.
However, I shall keep it in the car and it may come in handy; but I fancy I could have put one of my spare pairs of pliers in there for nothing and they would have been just as good :)
Petersen Mfg. Co. Vise-Grip 6LC large capacity locking pliers x Schrade Toolbox Multi-Tool with leather sheath made in Dewitt Nebraska, USA
Zebra F-701, Pelican LED Pen Light, Benchmade Pika, Gerber Multitool, Timex Compass Watch, Coast TacTorch. SanDisc Cruzr 1GB
Got a knife the day we met and one the day she left….
youtu.be/xUuKsmELvW0?si=wQG0HfUJdea-qlxy
youtu.be/y5AUZNiqi1Y?si=sIMnZHuI2adstZsc
Got it with gentle prising. Now I pulled the fine screw tool out from near the wide screw driver blade, and it won't insert back in with the fine Phillips head first..
That's great you got the pliers unstuck!
Now for the small screwdriver bit (often called the eyeglass screwdriver on a Leatherman Wave/Charge). This is a common point of confusion because it is a double-ended bit and the tool only fully closes in one orientation.
Here is the likely reason it won't go back in and the solution:
The Fix for the Small Screwdriver Bit
The small tool (the one you are referring to as the "fine screw tool") is designed to hold the special flat, double-ended bit, which has a small flathead on one end and a small Phillips head on the other.
The most common reason it won't fully insert is that you have the Phillips head facing out.
Remove the Bit: Pull the bit completely out of the tool/holder. You may need to use your fingernails or the edge of one of the other closed tools to get a grip on it.
Inspect the Bit: Note that one end is a tiny Phillips (+) and the other is an even tinier Flathead (—).
Insert the Bit Flathead First: Re-insert the small bit into its holder, making sure the tiny Flathead end is the one going into the tool.
Test Closure: Now, try to fold the entire small screwdriver assembly back into the handle.
When the tiny Flathead is exposed, the tool should fold back completely and lock properly. The Phillips end usually has a slightly larger profile that prevents the tool from nesting all the way into the handle, which would stop the handle from fully closing.
No, I can insert the flat head end of the "fine screwtool" but not the Phillips (=) end first!
You've correctly identified the problem! This is a known design feature of the Leatherman Wave and Charge series.
The reason you cannot insert the bit with the fine Phillips (+) end first is because the Phillips head is slightly wider or thicker than the tiny Flathead (—) end.
The inner cavity (where the tool folds up) is precisely machined to only allow the slightly narrower Flathead end to recess deep enough for the entire tool assembly to fold completely and lock into the handle.
How to Correctly Re-insert the Bit
Bit Check: Confirm you have the correct bit end for storage.
Flathead First: Always insert the double-ended bit with the tiny Flathead (—) tip facing into the tool handle (where it can't be seen when the handle is closed).
Confirm Closure: With the Flathead inserted, the full tool assembly should now fold and lock flush inside the handle, allowing the main multi-tool handles to close completely.
The tool is simply not designed to close flush when the wider Phillips end is facing inward.
You can see a video explaining Leatherman bits, including the eyeglass bit, on their YouTube channel: Leatherman Bits Explained.
Size comparison photo of my Gerber Shard, Kershaw PT-2, and Leatherman Brewzer edc keychain multitools. stormdranesblog.blogspot.com/2017/12/kershaw-pt-2.html