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Bella was snuggled on my lap, watching for birds or squirrels in the garden & waiting hopefully for her next meal.
Happy Caturday.
A multi course meal for my bird friends. For the Macro Mondays group. Topic: Busy amended to Abundant/Abundance.
New Year's Day is always an outdoor day for me. I use to stay up late on NYE but over the years I have begun to favor an early bedtime in order to get a head start on the fresh year - generally heading out somewhere to be in nature. This year saw me hiking Silver Falls State Park. But I have talked about my New Year habits in previous posts over previous years. The thread of today's image is actually involving Harman Phoenix 200 - the film used to make this image.
I will say, I have not completely made up my mind on this film, though my opinion of it has evolved since my first roll with it. It is definitely interesting stuff and I am glad Harman is making it. How long it remains available is still to be seen though. But even if it is phased out, it seems like that will be just to make room for a newly evolved color film.
But it does surprise me sometimes how film photographers don't quite seem to realize how malleable a material film is to work with. I see it sometimes at work. Customers will drop off film and then be amazed to discover how much work we can do to an image at the printing or scanning stage. Some think the image is more or less baked into the film and there is only one possible way that it will come out of a printer. But this also happens online too, especially with the rise of home developing and home scanning. Folks will develop a film like Phoenix then scan it (sometimes poorly) and characterize it by the results they get as if those are the only results possible. One example of this is the fact that Phoenix has a purple base. Most color films have a dusky orange film base. But Phoenix must share technology with XP2, a black and white C-41 film also known for a blue-purple film base. This purplish base makes it trickier to scan since a lot of film scanners are calibrated to see, and negate, the orange film base. And since we are dealing with negatives where everything inverts, that purple base of Phoenix inverts into a yellow-orange color cast in the positive scans. That is to say unless you work to correct/calibrate for it. My initial tests with this film only had modest color corrections and I just kind of let it be yellowish. But then I saw some optical prints we had done in our lab where our printing tech had put in a bit more effort to see if he could correct Phoenix to something a bit more neutral. The results impressed even me and at first I did not even realize the prints I was looking at had come from Harman Phoenix. So having seen this as an example of what the film could do I spent more time scanning my next couple of rolls. Specifically I used the Nikon Coolscan's ROC (restoration of color) feature to automatically correct the color cast. It did an impressive job but also had a tendency to add too much contrast. So lately I have been dialing in the color corrections manually and ending up with results like this image and without the heavy yellow tinge of my earlier images made on Phoenix.
I guess my point is multi-pronged. One - be careful about rushing to conclusions, especially when you have relatively little evidence to work with. Two - don't believe everything you read online because the folks giving you info might be failing at point One. Three - Remember that you are blind to your own blind spots. Meaning you have them, but you cannot see them. And it is easy to forget about something you cannot see. I had begun to characterize my own expectations of this film without realizing it and it took the print work of our lab to make me conscious of the bias I was forming about Phoenix. Four - keep your mind open and be curious, don't stop asking questions and don't stop looking for the answers to them, even if you want to think you already know those answers.
Anyhoo, just some Phoenix-related thoughts that may or may not be applicable in other ways.
Hasselblad 500C/M
Harman Phoenix 200
After grabbing a beakful of peanuts this Grackle hopped over to the stone birdbath for a drink of water - with the peanuts still in his mouth!
Somehow he managed this amazing feat and didn't drop a single peanut!
Built in LDD and rendered with Stud.io.
Lets go explore!
Another repurposed build, this time a space ship into a rover.
A multi purpose window for Window Wednesday. This scene was captured in Vancouver, British Columbia.
A red transparent plastic handle of a screwdriver, bedded on plastic cocktail sticks.
Light: Two remote controlled Speedlites flashes.
I wish you all a happy Macro Monday and a great week.
Development of more complex 'Acrylic tools' for light painting. SOOC except for a square crop in 'Windows'.
Multi-colored tents /Sales of second-hand, Train Night Market Ratchada, Bangkok, Thailand [IMG_0862]
A thankyou to Hugh www.flickr.com/photos/hughletheren/ for his kind words in helping me gain a mixture that actually works, something i struggle with.
Though ive put my own spin on the mixture the base comes from Hugh's remedy and most definitely works though needs a little tinkering.
This art form is extremely difficult to master, do we ever master it, i think not but it does have a lot of parameters to get right and can be rewarding once these parameters are met.
A small handful of droppers around the world have taken this art form to new heights in recent years..... where does it stop....................... who knows !
What i do know, i will carry on trying and testing my own patience to achieve something new or at least a little different.
Lady, presumably Laura, helps with washing fish whilst breast feeding her baby. Fish Market, Bacolod City, Philippines.
Ilko Allexandroff Photography on Facebook Check it out or updates ;)
Strobist info:
Nissin MG8000 - Camera left (Multi mode, 3 Hz, 9 times, 1/8 power)
Nissin MG8000 - Camera right (Multi mode, 3 Hz, 9 times, 1/8 power)
Triggered by Pocket Wizard II Plus
Here is the whole article the shoot with the lighting setup! Check it out!
Here is something I haven’t been uploading on my page by now! It is a photograph for which I’m using stroboscopic effect, which is quite interesting for shooting moving objects! I’m explaining in detail how I’m doing it and what equipment I am using for it!
I’m using my Canon 5D Mark II, with Canon 135mm f/2 lens, the main reason for using it is to compress the background as much as I can! The camera is mounted on a tripod, which is pretty low on the ground, well main reason is I guess to prevent it from being too big part of the picture and the 135mm is giving me quite good perspective to go low! As I mentioned in the strobist section, I’m using Pocket Wizard III Plus as a trigger for this shoot!
For more detailed info and explanation how I do the stroboscopic effect and what gear I'm using, check my article: CLICK!
Strobist Japan:
By the way here is a Japanese group about strobist lighting, feel free to check it and join! Might be interesting to see how people in Japan are using lights!
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