View allAll Photos Tagged medieval_architecture
Warmington church stands proud on high ground overlooking the main road up the north-eastern fringe of Edgehill. The church is of mainly 13th to 14th century date and is built of the local ironstone which always adds such character with it's delightful golden-brown hue.
The colouring of the stonework is also most apparent within the nave and aisles, which are separated by solid Transitional style arcades (the pillars are Norman in character, while the arches they carry are pointed, though still partially Romanesque in spirit). There is some interesting tracery in the north aisle, particularly the pentagram design in the east window. The chancel betrays later detailing from the 14th century, most notably the fine sedilia with its cusped canopies. Frustratingly I missed the chance to see inside the two-storey extension on the north side on this visit, assuming it to be just another locked vestry, but externally it seems to be a more significant structure.
The windows of the church are largely plain-glazed, though there is stained glass of the Victorian period in the chancel and west window of the tower (none of it terribly exciting).
St Michael's church is normally kept open for visitors during the day, and is well worth a look.
Formerly the abbey church of a Benedictine monastery dedicated to St Werburgh, since 1541 it has been the seat of the Bishop of Chester and now dedicated to Christ and the Blessed Virgin Mary.
The building dates from between 1093 and the early 1500s, although the site may have been used for Christian worship since Roman times.
All the major styles of English medieval architecture, from Norman to Perpendicular, are present in the building.
Chester Cathedral is a Grade I listed building.
St George's Chapel (Cheshire Regt.)
St Michael's & All Saints church sits above a sloping field some distance to the south of the quiet village of Loddington, one of the more remote and rural of churches reached by walking some distance across the field and along a tree-lined track before the ironstone building is revealed in its beautifully enclosed and leafy churchyard. It would be easy to miss from the road, hidden away behind the dense foliage, and there is little opportunity to park nearby. Regardless the church continues to hold worship despite its isolated setting.
The building is largely of 14th-15th century date and after the warm tones of its caramel-brown exterior the light whitewashed interior comes as a bit of a surprise. The building has been restored though retains some features of antiquarian interest such as the fragments of old glass in the chancel.
Loddington church used to be kept locked outside of services but appears to be open more regularly these days. We met a local gentleman here on arrival who was doing a great job of keeping the churchyard in good order.
www.leicestershirechurches.co.uk/loddington-church-st-mic...
Trosky (literally "debris") is one of the most significant places in Czech lands with unique look. It was built on a relict of a volcano, two basalt towers which were exposed by long time erosion, those towers made of compact basanite were originally magma flows of two monogenetic volcanos. Due to it´s material composition, the towers are strong enough to bear the buildings. The building began around 1380, first the inner castle between the towers was completed, then the turrets on the towers which were accessible from the lower buildings through wooden towers and bridges. The lower, pentagonal tower is known as Baba (old hag) and is freely accesible, the higher one is named Panna (maiden) and is actually isolated and inaccessible. A spiral staircase to Panna had to be built in 1841, but was never finished after the death of the builder. The castle stood on the royal side in the Hussite wars, and was unsuccesfully besieged in 1424 by the Hussites. It was taken through a ruse by marauders in 1438, which withstood all attacks for years and terorized the surrounding county until 1444. After it was bought by the owner of the nearby Kost Castle in 1455, Trosky lost it´s primal role and became only a local administrative center for the next century. It served as a base for Swedes in the Thirty years war, in 1648 the castle burned down. It was bought in 1821 by the Aehrentals, a new type of rich enterpreneurs who invested into rescue od cultural heritage sites, and also Trosky has been changed into a tourist attraction, but the work was not finished. The castle became property of the Czech tourist club in 1920ies, the walls have been conserved, in 2000 the Baba tower was made accesible with incredible lookout into the landscape. It´s a place worthy of a visit.
Burford is a popular destination on the tourist trail through the Cotswolds and its high street is always a bustling place, busy with traffic. The magnificent church of St John the Baptist is less conspicuously placed, being set back down a quiet side street on the edge of this small town, but beckons the visitor onwards with its elegant spire atop its handsome central tower. What rewards the visitor who comes this way is one of the most rewarding of parish churches, a delightful building full of interest.
The church dates back to Norman times but has been mostly remodeled and extended beyond recognition throughout the later Middle Ages so that it appears mostly to be a fine Perpendicular wool church, however the lower half of the tower is still the original 12th century Norman structure (the upper half with its fine ogee-arched windows is 15th century) and the ornately carved west doorway of the nave also remains. The church was made cruciform by the addition of transepts in the 13th century and further aisles and chapels were added later and give the church a rather unusual (one might say confusing) form and layout, culminating in the handsome south porch being flush with the outer walls (rather than projecting) and a large Lady Chapel occupying the southwest corner (originally a separate building but connected during 15th century alterations).
Entering by the delightful south porch with its impressively ornate facade the first feature we notice is the exquisite fan vault of the porch, a wonderfully luxurious addition, unusual in a parish church. The first sight inside the church proper can be a little bewildering due to the profusion of pillars and chapels, but the main impression is that of a 15th century church with a Norman crossing, and standing beneath the tower reveals its arcaded interior, the most ancient part of the church. The Lady Chapel at the west end is a vast space, the largest of the side chapels whilst the smallest is diagonally opposite, a free-standing chantry chapel within the nave that survived through conversion to a family pew after the Reformation, and has been richly decorated since its Victorian restoration.
The 14th century font is carved with sadly damaged figures in niches, including a defaced Crucifixion. Fragments of medieval glass survive in places but most dates from the Victorian period with a few windows in the nave by Kempe. The best glass however is the Arts & Crafts window on the south side by Christopher Whall. The church is packed full of monuments, though surprisingly few bear much in the way of effigies or sculpture aside from the enormous Tanfield monument from the early 17th century that fills the north east chapel with recumbent effigies beneath an imposing canopy.
Burford church is one that shouldn't be missed, both for its handsome exterior and its wealth of interesting features within. My photo coverage alas does not do it justice since they are from my last visit in 2011 with my previous camera which was much more limited in scope. The church is happily kept open and welcoming to visitors on a daily basis.
For a fuller account with photos see below:-
Monument to Bishop Goldsborough erected in 1604 in the north chantry of the Lady Chapel at Gloucester Cathedral.
Gloucester Cathedral is one of England's finest churches, a masterpiece of medieval architecture consisting of a uniquely beautiful fusion of Norman Romanesque and Perpendicular Gothic from the mid 14th century onwards. Until the Reformation this was merely Gloucester's Abbey of St Peter, under Henry VIII it became one of six former monastic churches to be promoted to cathedral status, thus saving the great church from the ravages of the Dissolution.
The most obviously Norman part is the nave, immediately apparent on entering the building with it's round arches and thick columns (the exterior is the result of Gothic remodelling). Much of the remainder of the building is substantially the Norman structure also, but almost entirely modified in the later Middle Ages inside and out, the result of the great revenue brought to the abbey by pilgrims to the tomb of the murdered King Edward II in the choir. It was this transformation of the Norman church that is credited with launching the late gothic Perpendicular style in England.
The gothic choir is a unique and spectacular work, the walls so heavily panelled as to suggest a huge stone cage (disguising the Norman arches behind) crowned by a glorious net-like vault adorned with numerous bosses (those over the Altar with superb figures of Christ and angels) whilst the east wall is entirely glazing in delicate stone tracery, and still preserving most of it's original 14th century stained glass. The soaring central tower, also richly panelled with delicate pinnacles, is another testament to the abbey's increasing wealth at this time.
The latest medieval additions to the church are equally glorious, the Lady Chapel is entered through the enormous east window and is itself a largely glazed structure, though the original glass has been reduced to a few fragments in the east window, the remainder now contains beautiful Arts & Crafts stained glass by Christopher and Veronica Whall.
The early 16th century cloisters to the north of the nave are some of the most beautiful anywhere, being completely covered by exquisite fan vaulting, with a seperate lavatorium (washing room) attached to the north walk as a miniature version of the main passages.
There is much more of interest, from 14th century choir stalls with misericords to the comprehensive collection of tombs and monuments of various dates, including the elaborate tomb of Edward II and that of Robert Duke of Normandy, eldest son of William the Conqueror. The stained glass also represents all ages, from the 14th century to the striking contemporary windows by Tom Denny.
Further areas of the cathedral can be accessed at certain times, such as the Norman crypt under the choir and the triforium gallery above.
My visit coincided with the major 'Crucible' exhibition of contemporary sculpture (September-October 2010), examples of which I will upload in due course.
Conserved remains of a gothique castle, founded in early 14th Century. It stood on the rebel side in the Hussite side, but its owner switched sides in the last phase of the conflict, and the castle was unsuccesfuly besieged by Hussites in 1434. The owning lord is mentioned a few weeks later as one of the knights, who decided the battle of Lipany, in which the Hussites were definitely crushed. The castle was used together with a newly built baroque manor until 1621, when both were plundered and burned down by imperial soldiers. The manor was quickly restored, but the castle was abandoned, and parts of it were systematically demolished, after the whole county was sold to a enterpreneur. When his son, after he inherited the castle, is elevated to a noble in 1865, he sees himslef to be a successor to the knight tradition of the castle, stops its destruction and begins conservation efforts. In the communist era the ruin was statically conserved in the then-typical way, which was not the most sensitive, it was returned together with the manor to their last owners in 1990ies, and is freely accessible today, with deep cellars and tight tunnels undergrounds.
A large, early gothical castle founded around 1059. This is just the southern part, the whole castle can´t be captured in whole. It´s rich history contains many sieges and reconstructions, but the worst damage came in the communist era with damaging unsensitive restoration work, but in the modern time it´s being restored to historically true state.
St Helen's church at Ranworth has much of interest but is justly renowned for its wonderfully preserved rood screen, dating back to the 15th century and still adorned with an amazing sequence of painted saints.
The building itself is almost entirely of 15th century date, with a soaring west tower and nave and chancel both aisless but of different widths, the latter much narrower but this transition is nicely accommodated by the rood screen which extends the full width of the wider nave, the extremities serving as parclose chapels, complete with separate altars and reredoses but otherwise structurally continuous with the screen.
The interior would be somewhat spartan without the screen, a large open space with little other adornment. The display of images painted on the screen makes a matter of little consequence, it is one of the best displays of medieval art in the country, with particularly famous images of St Michael & St George on the parts that extend outwards. Despite the preservation of the imagery, there was clearly some iconoclasm as most of the faces are less well preserved (looking as if someone has tried to rub them away), but fortunately most of the features are still discernabile (the under-drawing showing through in many instances).
The chancel beyond the screen contains medieval stalls with a few simple misericords and a few old poppyheads can be enjoyed on the bench ends in the nave.
The church is generally kept open and welcoming for visitors to enjoy (don't come too early though, it was locked when I arrived so I went of to see somewhere else, only to return and find it still shut but fortunately a lady appeared before long to unlock, after the vicar had assured me by phone the church would be opened shortly).
One special treat here is the access to the tower, visitors are able to climb to the roof for some fine views over the surrounding countryside (I timed my ascent badly as a big group had just turned up purely to do the same). A spiral staircase takes visitors to belfry level, and then one completes the climb via a couple of ladders leading to a hatch in the roof. If only more churches would take a leaf out of Ranworth's book to offer this rare treat.
Above: St Luke & St Matthew. Below: St Jerome (with his lion) & St Ambrose.
The architectural statuary of Henry VII's lady chapel forms one of the most remarkably complete ensembles of English medieval sculpture to have survived, but this fine collection of early 16th century scatues is somewhat under-appreciated, being largely unaccessible due to their positions (those in the main chapel being high up and partially obscured by banners) or overshadowed by the surrounding architecture and monuments that compete for attention. They are nonetheless a precious and extremely rare survival, and give an impression of the sort of quality of sculpted figures we have lost in the numerous empty late medieval niches we see elsewhere.
Westminster Abbey is perhaps the most significant church in English History, site of the coronation of monarchs since it was founded by Edward the Confessor, and burial place of the majority of them, along with many other historical figures of note. It is first and foremost a superlative work of medieval architecture, from its soaring 13th-14th century nave, transepts and choir (all in a curiously French inspired version of Decorated Gothic) to the masterpiece of English Perpendicular, the incredibly lacy fan-vaulted Henry VII's chapel at the east end.
The Abbey is also a treasure house of ecclesiastical art, most of it monumental sculpture on the numerous tombs and effigies of almost every date ranging from the entire medieval period through to the 20th century; a somewhat cluttered interior, crammed full of interest, there is simply nothing else quite like it, no other church contains so many monuments.
The Abbey's monastic ranges partially survive, most notably the cloisters and superb chapter house; a short summary of the Abbey's riches is simply impossible. The monastery itself was shut down during the Dissolution, after which the Abbey briefly became a cathedral until its diocesan rank was revoked merely a decade later. Today it is designated a 'Royal Peculiar' owing to its unique status.
The Abbey is a textbook in stone of British history, and thus a hugely popular tourist attraction. It currently has more limited opening hours in the post-Covid recovery period and entry is not cheap, but happily after decades of a strict prohibition against photographers the rules have now been relaxed at last and visitors are now welcome to fully enjoy this marvellous building with their cameras!
For further details (and restrictions) see below:-
Peterborough Cathedral is one of England's finest buildings, an almost complete Romanesque church on an impressive scale sitting behind one of the most unique and eccentric Gothic facades found anywhere in medieval Europe. The church we see today is little altered since its completion in the 13th century aside from inevitable 19th century restorations and the serious depradations of Civil War damage in the mid 17th century.
The bulk of the church is 12th century Norman, retaining even its apse (a rarity in England) and even the original flat wooden ceilings of nave and transept. The nave ceiling retains its early medieval painted decoration with an assortment of figures set within lozenge shaped panels (mostly overpainted in the 18th and 19th centuries but the overall effect is preserved). The 13th century west facade is the most dramatic and memorable feature of the building, with three vast Gothic arches forming a giant porch in front of the building, a unique design, flanked by small spires and intended to be surmounted by two pinnacled towers rising just behind the facade, though only that on the north side was finished (and originally surmounted by a wooden spire which was removed c1800). The central tower is a surprisingly squat structure of 14th century date (with a striking vaulted ceiling within) and along with its counterpart at the west end makes surprisingly little presence on the city's skyline for such an enormous building. The final addition to the church prior to the Reformation is the ambulatory around the apse, a superb example of late medieval perpendicular with a stunning fan-vaulted ceiling.
Given the vast scale of the building it is perhaps surprising to learn that it has only had cathedral status since 1541, prior to that it had been simply Peterborough Abbey, but it was one of the most well endowed monastic houses in the country, as witnessed by the architecture. It was once the burial place of two queens, Katherine of Aragon lies on the north side of the choir and Mary Queen of Scots was originally interred here before her son James I had her body moved to the more prestigious surroundings of Westminster.
Sadly the cathedral suffered miserably during the Civil War when Parliamentarian troops ransacked the church and former monastic buildings in an orgy of destruction, much of which was overseen by Cromwell himself in person (which helps explain its thoroughness). Tombs and monuments were brutally defaced, and nearly all the original furnishings and woodwork were destroyed, along with every bit of stained glass in all the vast windows (only the merest fragments remain today in the high windows of the apse). Worse still, the delightful cloisters on the south side, once famed for the beauty of their painted windows, were demolished leaving only their outer walls and some tantalising reminders of their former richness. The magnificent 13th century Lady Chapel attached to the north transept (an unusual arrangement, similar to that at Ely) was another major casualty, demolished immediately after the war so that its materials could be sold in order to raise funds for the restoration of the cathedral following the Cromwellian rampage.
In the following centuries much was done to repair the building and bring it back into order. There were major restorations during the 19th century, which included the dismantling and rebuilding of the central tower (following the same design and reusing original material) owing to impending structural failure in the crossing piers.
What we see today is thus a marvel of architecture, a church of great beauty, but a somewhat hollow one owing to the misfortunes of history. One therefore doesn't find at Peterborough the same clutter of the centuries that other cathedrals often possess (in terms of tombs and furnishings) and there are few windows of real note, but for the grandeur of its architecture it is one of the very finest churches we have.
For more history see the link below:-
Coventry's ancient guildhall is considered the finest in the country and the grandest of the city's surviving medieval secular buildings, still in use for civic functions to this day. Most of the complex dates back to the 14th and 15th centuries and features a great hall as its major room with other chambers around the adjoining courtyard. The complex is entered from Bayley Lane through a vaulted gateway arch standing immediately south of the ruins of St Michael's cathedral.
The great hall is the showpiece here and is remarkable for its impressive interior beneath a richly carved timber roof, restored to the original 15th century design following bomb damage during the Coventry Blitz in 1940; the structural woodwork appears to have been entirely renewed though many of the carved bosses and seated angel figures appear to have survived the damage (it isn't clear to what extent these are original or restored owing to their postwar repainting which disguises any blend of old and new).
The focal point of the interior is the great window at the northern end which retains its 15th century stained glass depicting nine kings set within simulated niches and appears to have been the work of one of the royal glaziers. Below the window (protected behind glass) is a large tapestry dating back to c1500, another significant medieval survival.
St Mary's Guildhall would be a worthy visitor attraction anywhere else but sadly Coventry's council authorities have long neglected its potential, generally only opening to visitors Sun-Thurs but not at weekends in the more tourist friendly months. There is some hope things may change with some more enlightened individuals reviewing the situation. It is currently closed throughout 2020 for renovation and archaeological investigation.
The church of St Mary the Virgin at Pembridge is best known for one outstanding feature which is immediately apparent on approaching the church,, it's unique detached belfry. This 14th century wooden structure rises from an octagonal masonry base and forms three distinct storeys with sloping roofs, like a cross between a pyramid and a wedding-cake! It is a striking design and remarkable medieval structure. The door in it's base is usually open to reveal the forest of timbers within.
The large cruciform church next to it is also of mostly 14th century date and quite spacious within. The best features here are the medieval tombs with effigies in the chancel, but there are other noteworthy elements from later generations, such as the 17th century wood-carving in the nave.
St Mary's and its detached bell-tower are normally open to visitors on a daily basis.
Founder's Window, St John's, Coventry.
Window by Burlison & Grylls c1910 in the north aisle. The arms commemorate Queen Isabella who founded the church in 1342, flanked by Our Lady of the Assumption and St Catherine. St John's sits at the entrance to Spon Street, that rare enclave of medieval architecture in Coventry's mostly post-war city centre. Being on the fringe of city's heart it generally gets less attention from visitors, thus one feels that in any other setting it would be far more celebrated, George Gilbert Scott, who restored the church in 1877, considered it 'one of the most beautiful churches in England'. The church luckily escaped major damage in the November 1940 Blitz that destroyed so much else in the city, beyond the loss of much (but not all) of it's Victorian stained glass.
The church was founded in 1342 by Queen Isabella, mother of Edward III, but most of what we see today is 15th century work, though evidently of different phases. The church sits on a relatively small site, but what it lacks in length and width it gains in height, and with it's tapering and unusually narrow clerestorey windows and central tower it gives the impression of a cathedral in miniature. The tower has oddly corbelled-out turrets at it's corners, an over-exaggeration of the original design by Scott; his main intervention on the exterior otherwise was the renewal of much of the stonework, since warm red sandstone is one of the least resistant to weathering.
The interior is surprisingly light for a sandstone church, the result of the large Perpendicular windows and extensive clerestorey that creates a 'glass cage' effect in the higher parts of the church. It is also rather narrow, which accentuates the proportions and sense of height further, a good example of architectural limitations and constraints turned to an advantage. There are some good medieval carvings surviving higher up, but otherwise aside from the fine Perpendicular architecture itself the impression is largely of early 20th century High Church Anglican worship, as most of the furnishings appear to date from this time, though they are nonetheless attractive and sympathetic to the building.
The lack of any relics of the Middle Ages in wood or glass or monuments of later periods is explained by the history of the church, since it actually ceased to be used for worship in the 1590s and for several centuries suffered various indignities of secular use, such as a prison for Scottish rebels captured after the Battle of Preston during the Civil War in 1648 (these rebels, loyal to the King, were shunned in the Parliamentarian held city, thus the phrase being 'Sent to Coventry' was born!). Other uses included as a stables, a market and a winding and dying house for cloth, before being eventually restored to church use in the 19th century. We should at least be glad that being put to other uses at least preserved the structure through it's centuries of hibernation.
The church posesses an interesting mixture of stained glass, from Victorian and Edwardian pieces that survived the bombing, to the more prominent and colourful windows installed in the 1950s. However it is interesting to note how the postwar glass here predates the nearby Cathedral's windows by only a few years, but is still highly figurative and traditional in approach, thus still a far cry from the revolutionary new works that Coventry became famous for less than a decade later.
St John's is open on saturday mornings but otherwise kept locked owing to concerns over security. Sadly it has suffered attacks from stone-throwing idiots on several occasions in recent years (I have repaired minor damage to several of the windows here) but the parishoners remain welcoming and friendly in spite of a difficult environment. It is a lovely church and well worth a visit.
For more detail and images see it's entry on the Warwickshire Churches website below:-
warwickshirechurches.weebly.com/coventry---st-john-the-ba...
Victorian stained glass in the south nave aisle by William Warrington, 1861.
Gloucester Cathedral is one of England's finest churches, a masterpiece of medieval architecture consisting of a uniquely beautiful fusion of Norman Romanesque and Perpendicular Gothic from the mid 14th century onwards. Until the Reformation this was merely Gloucester's Abbey of St Peter, under Henry VIII it became one of six former monastic churches to be promoted to cathedral status, thus saving the great church from the ravages of the Dissolution.
The most obviously Norman part is the nave, immediately apparent on entering the building with it's round arches and thick columns (the exterior is the result of Gothic remodelling). Much of the remainder of the building is substantially the Norman structure also, but almost entirely modified in the later Middle Ages inside and out, the result of the great revenue brought to the abbey by pilgrims to the tomb of the murdered King Edward II in the choir. It was this transformation of the Norman church that is credited with launching the late gothic Perpendicular style in England.
The gothic choir is a unique and spectacular work, the walls so heavily panelled as to suggest a huge stone cage (disguising the Norman arches behind) crowned by a glorious net-like vault adorned with numerous bosses (those over the Altar with superb figures of Christ and angels) whilst the east wall is entirely glazing in delicate stone tracery, and still preserving most of it's original 14th century stained glass. The soaring central tower, also richly panelled with delicate pinnacles, is another testament to the abbey's increasing wealth at this time.
The latest medieval additions to the church are equally glorious, the Lady Chapel is entered through the enormous east window and is itself a largely glazed structure, though the original glass has been reduced to a few fragments in the east window, the remainder now contains beautiful Arts & Crafts stained glass by Christopher and Veronica Whall.
The early 16th century cloisters to the north of the nave are some of the most beautiful anywhere, being completely covered by exquisite fan vaulting, with a separate lavatorium (washing room) attached to the north walk as a miniature version of the main passages.
There is much more of interest, from 14th century choir stalls with misericords to the comprehensive collection of tombs and monuments of various dates, including the elaborate tomb of Edward II and that of Robert Duke of Normandy, eldest son of William the Conqueror. The stained glass also represents all ages, from the 14th century to the striking contemporary windows by Tom Denny.
Further areas of the cathedral can be accessed at certain times, such as the Norman crypt under the choir and the triforium gallery above.
Detail of the mural decoration of the chapel of St Andrew off the south transept at Gloucester. The painting is the work of Thomas Gambier Parry from 1866-8.
Gloucester Cathedral is one of England's finest churches, a masterpiece of medieval architecture consisting of a uniquely beautiful fusion of Norman Romanesque and Perpendicular Gothic from the mid 14th century onwards. Until the Reformation this was merely Gloucester's Abbey of St Peter, under Henry VIII it became one of six former monastic churches to be promoted to cathedral status, thus saving the great church from the ravages of the Dissolution.
The most obviously Norman part is the nave, immediately apparent on entering the building with it's round arches and thick columns (the exterior is the result of Gothic remodelling). Much of the remainder of the building is substantially the Norman structure also, but almost entirely modified in the later Middle Ages inside and out, the result of the great revenue brought to the abbey by pilgrims to the tomb of the murdered King Edward II in the choir. It was this transformation of the Norman church that is credited with launching the late gothic Perpendicular style in England.
The gothic choir is a unique and spectacular work, the walls so heavily panelled as to suggest a huge stone cage (disguising the Norman arches behind) crowned by a glorious net-like vault adorned with numerous bosses (those over the Altar with superb figures of Christ and angels) whilst the east wall is entirely glazing in delicate stone tracery, and still preserving most of it's original 14th century stained glass. The soaring central tower, also richly panelled with delicate pinnacles, is another testament to the abbey's increasing wealth at this time.
The latest medieval additions to the church are equally glorious, the Lady Chapel is entered through the enormous east window and is itself a largely glazed structure, though the original glass has been reduced to a few fragments in the east window, the remainder now contains beautiful Arts & Crafts stained glass by Christopher and Veronica Whall.
The early 16th century cloisters to the north of the nave are some of the most beautiful anywhere, being completely covered by exquisite fan vaulting, with a seperate lavatorium (washing room) attached to the north walk as a miniature version of the main passages.
There is much more of interest, from 14th century choir stalls with misericords to the comprehensive collection of tombs and monuments of various dates, including the elaborate tomb of Edward II and that of Robert Duke of Normandy, eldest son of William the Conqueror. The stained glass also represents all ages, from the 14th century to the striking contemporary windows by Tom Denny.
Further areas of the cathedral can be accessed at certain times, such as the Norman crypt under the choir and the triforium gallery above.
www.gloucestercathedral.org.uk/
My visit coincided with the major 'Crucible' exhibition of contemporary sculpture (September-October 2010), examples of which I will upload in due course.
The stunning Abbey church of Varnhem. An amazing work of medieval architecture. Complex exterior and a beautiful simple interior. Varnhem has some of Sweden's most famous sons burined inside. Knut I of Sweden, Erik X of Sweden, Erik XI of Sweden and Birger Jarl (arguably the one who united the 3 crowns of Sweden). Also buried here are Magnus Gabriel de la Gardie and his wife Maria Eufrosyne. Maria was Queen Christina's cousin and along with her husband Magnus (a nobleman of some reknown) they saved Varnhem from destruction. Varnhem is feautured heavily in Jan Guillou best-selling Arn (the Templar Knight) trilogy.
Mainz is a very old city and was the most important city of Roman emperor, only 40 km distant from Frankfurt.
The village of La Romieu in Midi Pyrénées, France, is not only famous for its medieval architecture and the fact that it is on the route to Santiago de Compostella ; it is also known as the village of cats on account of a local story, about events which, allegedly, took place there in the 14th century and which certainly echoes the facts of a Europe which was plagued in general by bad weather, poor harvests and famine at that time.
Here is the story. A woodcutter by the name of Vincent, lived happily in La Romieu with his wife, Mariette. Their happiness was complete when their little daughter, Angéline was born. However, life took a turn for the worse. A tree toppled on Vincent and killed him and Mariette went into a decline and, only weeks later, died of a broken heart, the toddler still in her arms.
Luckily for Angéline, a kind neighbour took her in and brought her up as one of her own children and all was well for a time. Angéline was particularly fond of cats and usually had a couple playing around her.
Then misfortune struck again. In 1342 and for the three subsequent years, the winters were fiendishly cold and each followed by a wet Spring and summer. No crops could be sown and famine stalked the land. The villagers grew hungrier and hungrier, despite charity from the college canons and they eventually started to eat the local cats. Angéline's adoptive parents knew how this would upset her, so they allowed her to keep a pair of her cats secretly in the attic ; one male and one female.
Eventually the weather returned to its normal patterns and crops were sown and harvested. But now the rats moved in and started to devastate the land. Angéline by now had 20 kittens as well as the original two cats, so she offered to release them, on condition that they were not eaten. The villagers agreed, the rats disappeared and all was well once more.
Angéline spent the rest of her life in the village but was so involved with her cats that it is said that she grew pointed ears and , as she grew older, began to resemble a cat, herself.
And this is where the sculptures come in, for a visiting sculptor from Lorraine, one Maurice Serreau, heard the story in the early 20th century and offered to fill the village with stone cats. This one shows Angéline herself but small sculpted cats can be seen climbing houses and peeping through shutters all over the main square.
The final church of my trip (thirteen in all) and my favourite of the day, so this itinerary was saving the best till last! St Mary's at Much Cowarne stands dramatically situated on high ground in an exposed spot by a farm; a pretty robust looking building, its sturdy square west tower staring out defiantly as the ground falls away to its west. The tower was formerly crowned by a wooden spire, but this was lost to a lightning strike in 1840 which caused a serious fire.
The church appear mainly to be of 14th century date (the tower a little older) and impresses with its sense of mass, not significantly diminished by the loss of its north aisle which has had the curious effect of leaving the former north nave arcade exposed externally, its three arches simply filled with masonry (one with a medieval doorway relocated within it, itself since blocked, suggesting all this material was recycled from the former north aisle walls).
Within the church seems pleasingly uncluttered, spacious and light (even on a dull afternoon), and all evidence of the missing north aisle (so noticeable externally) is hidden under plaster. The chancel arch is quite small with much space above, pierced intriguingly by three small quatrefoil lights. The most interesting features are in the south aisle, two of the church's three monuments with effigies, one medieval, the rest early 17th century (the other is in the chancel). The oldest is the effigy of a knight, believed to be Grimaldus Pauncefoot who fought in the 7th crusade and was captured by Saladin (a ransom was demanded of his wife's severed hand: this was dutifully sent from England, thus procuring Pauncefoot's release!).
This is was a most rewarding church to finish on and one that was happily open and welcoming in pre-Covid days. I was intrigued to read that composer Sir Edward Elgar had also arrived here on a similar cycling expedition a century before me, and hope it will continue to likewise reward others yet to visit.
More on the church (especially the tombs) at the link below:-
www.britainexpress.com/counties/hereford/churches/much-co...
St Mary's church in the attractive town of Hadleigh didn't look like I expected to, being one of those few Suffolk churches still crowned by its medieval spire (in lead-covered wood, the only full size one left in the county), handsome but rather atypical of the area and therefore a surprise. It is also a very grand building and quite a contrast to the more intimate buildings we had visited immediately before our arrival here. Opposite the west end of the church is the even more striking Tudor brick gatehouse of the former Hadleigh Deanery, its twin turrets forming a most pleasing ensemble with the church's leaden spire.
This is one of Suffolk's largest parish churches, all the more so as both nave and chancel are embraced by aisles on either side, adding so much more to the building's width. The effect from the south side is of two rows of windows, clerestorey above and larger apertures lighting the aisles below. More of these windows are filled with stained glass than one normally sees in this area too, though mostly with 19th century glass, only tiny remnants remain of the original glazing.
Within the immediate sense is of spaciousness and a somewhat refreshing lack of clutter, the pews have been removed and replaced by modern seating which actually works very well here. The nave arcades are wide, requiring fewer pillars than one might expect. This very much has the feel of a large town church, and a somewhat restored one with so much Victorian glass in the most prominent windows (of decent quality, the majority being the work of Ward & Hughes, but in some instances a little oppressive), There earlier pieces of glass in the north east corner but the most interesting medieval survivals are in the south chapel, some fine elements of a late medieval brass and two curious wood carvings from bench ends, one supposedly representing St Edmund's head being guarded by a wolf (a peculiarly grotesque creature here, one I'd known from a picture in a book since childhood so was intrigued to finally see it for myself).
St Mary's is happily normally a visitor friendly church, generally kept open on a daily basis.
St Cuthbert's church in Wells would be a worthy landmark in any town but is somewhat eclipsed here in this small cathedral-city by the incomparable mother-church that stands a mere ten minute walk away and leaves even this fine building in the shade. St Cuthbert's subsequently doesn't perhaps receive the attention or visitors it deserves, and yet is a grand enough building in its own right to be mistaken for the cathedral by some of the only other visitors who wandered in while I was here!
Most of the present building is of 15th century date in a proud Perpendicular style with one of the most handsome of Somerset's many fine late medieval towers at the west end.
Inside the sense of space is impressive, but the eye is drawn most the the rich wooden roof over the nave, replete with an array of angels adorning the main beams, all brightly recoloured in the 1960s. There is much fine woodwork and carving in the roofs throughout the church, and yet perhaps the most interesting features here are the ambitious reredoses surviving in the transepts, sadly heavily mutilated after the Reformation and shorn of most of their sculptures (a few fragments remain and a defaced reclining figure in the south transept indicates the reredos on this side once formed a tree of Jesse).
Of course the visitor to Wells should prioritise the magnificent cathedral, but anyone with more time to explore the city should see this fine church, which is good enough to be the main attraction anywhere else.
St Cuthbert's church is normally kept open and welcoming to visitors during the day.
Out in the pleasant Derbyshire countryside sits the quiet village of Dalbury with it's modest looking parish church. At first glance it doesn't look very exciting, a rather restored building with a miniature west tower, but it holds a treasure that deserves to be better known and the reason for me making this trip, very likely the oldest complete stained glass window in the country.
The church is a simple building, originally a Norman two-cell structure of nave and chancel but much altered since, including the later addition of a north aisle. Inside its simplicity is charming, all light rendered, bright and cheerful. Not a lot remains that actually looks medieval, except for the one aforementioned special feature in the south wall of the nave.
The Romanesque Dalbury angel is a striking piece, believed to date from the early 12th century but possibly older still, its stylised form as close to Saxon as Norman inspiration. It was clearly made for a small round-headed Norman style aperture, but sadly as no such openings remain at the church it has been transferred to a larger window and reset in plain glazing. The painting is simple but bold, the expressive face stares back at us with its large eyes and linear features while raising his hands in an act of praise. A very special and rather unique survival in an English church.
Happily Dalbury church appears to be more welcoming to visitors than the others I had visited on this trip so far, and getting to finally meet the Dalbury Angel in person was a particular delight and highlight of the day for me.
St Mary's sits in the heart of the peaceful village of Priors Hardwick as it has done for centuries and is an attractive building of warm hued ironstone. The present church dates back to the late 13th century but was heavily restored in 1868 when the nave was completely rebuilt, leaving the handsome medieval chancel and the slender tower at the west end remaining from the original building.
The interior is light and pleasant, the rebuilt nave broad without aisles leading the eye to the late 13th century chancel with its attractive early Decorated east window, filled with a pleasing patchwork of historic plain quarry glazing. The chancel is the highlight of the church with fine period detailing in its windows and the ample sedilia and piscina.
I've visited this delightful church twice over the years and found it kept open and welcoming on both occasions. It will not delay the visitor for long but is charming place for contemplation and reflection.
Ely Cathedral is in the top rank of the great English cathedrals, and indeed earns its place among the best of medieval churches internationally for its unique architecture and astonishing beauty. It is a church I've visited several times over the years and never fails to impress, its form at once imposing and strikingly individual. Owing to the flatness of the surrounding countryside it is visible from afar as a major landmark, which makes approaching this tiny city all the more enticing.
The church was founded as an abbey by St Etheldreda in 672 and didn't achieve cathedral status until the foundation of the diocese in 1109. Much of the present building dates from the following years, with the nave and transepts still substantially as they were built (aside from a few altered windows and later ceilings) and a fine example of Norman / Romanesque architecture. A little later during the 1170s the soaring west tower and western transepts were added which would have created a magnificent facade when complete and of a type rarely seen in this country. The style is richer with more use of ornamentation than before, but also many of the arches (particularly the upper parts of the tower) are pointed, making it an early example of the transition to Gothic (the octagonal top storey is from two centuries later, but follows the original overall plan in form, if not detail). The north-west transept however collapsed in the late 15th century and was never rebuilt, leaving the front of the cathedral will the curiously lopsided but not unattractive west front we see today. The Galilee porch that projects from the base of the tower dates from the beginning of the 13th century, only a few decades later but now fully Gothic in style.
The Norman eastern limb had been fairly short so the next major building phases saw the great eastward extension of the presbytery built in Gothic style in 1234-50. It makes an interesting contrast with the earlier parts of the building being so rich in style, externally punctuated with pinnacles and flying buttresses and profusely ornamented withing, making the Romanesque nave and transepts seem somewhat austere by comparison. Then in 1321 an ambitious new lady chapel was begun at the north-east corner, but soon afterwards work was delayed by unforeseen events.
In 1322 the old Norman central tower collapsed, bringing down with it most of the old Romanesque choir (but not the recently built presbytery beyond). The aftermath left the cathedral with a gaping hole at its heart, but this must have inspired those charged with its recovery, and under the direction of Alan of Walsingham the crossing was rebuilt in a unique way; rather than build a new tower of a similar form the central piers that supported it were entirely cleared away along with the adjoining bay of nave, transepts and choir to create a much larger octagonal central space. This then rose to become the unique central tower that Ely is so famous for, the Octagon, a combination of a lower octagonal tower built of stone crowned by a delicate lantern built of wood and covered with lead externally. The result is an incredible, piece of architecture, and the view inside of the open space rising to the curved vaults above on which the glazed lantern appears to float is unforgettable.
After the Octagon and beautifully spacious and richly adorned Lady Chapel were completed there was no more major work at the cathedral. The transept roofs were replaced in the 15th century with the wooden hammerbeam structures we see today, adorned with large angel figures in the East Anglian tradition. The most significant late medieval additions are the two sumptuously decorated chantry chapels built within the end of each choir aisle, each a riot of later medieval ornament and Bishop West's also being remarkable for its fusion of Gothic and Renaissance detail. The cloister appears to have been rebuilt at a similar stage though sadly very little of it survives today.
Sadly the Reformation saw a wave of iconoclasm of particular ferocity unleashed here in Ely. The most telling reminder is the Lady Chapel with its richly ornamented arcading carved with hundreds of small scenes and figures, all brutally beheaded (not a single head survives). Free standing statues in niches have all gone without trace, but in the case of Bishop West's chantry chapel the topmost figures were carved in relief, so these were hammered away leaving the mutilated remains as a testament to zealotry and intolerance. Most of the stained glass appears to have also been removed around this time, so there was surprisingly little damage here during the Civil War a century later as the Puritan frenzy had already been unleashed.
A corner of the north transept collapsed in 1699 but was rebuilt almost identically, a rare early example of such an exacting approach to reconstruction. The classical form of a window and doorway below are the only reminders of the rebuilding, some say with advice from Christopher Wren whose uncle had been bishop here decades earlier (Wren knew the cathedral as a result, and the Octagon is believed to have inspired his plans for St Paul's, as the ground plans of the Octagon and his domed central space at St Paul's are remarkably similar).
The cathedral saw further changes in the 18th century when the structure was in need of repair. James Essex was called in to repair the Octagon and the wooden lantern was stabilised but its external was appearance simplified by stripping away much of its original detail. The medieval choir stalls had originally sat directly underneath the Octagon with painted walls on either side, but these were removed at this time and the stalls relocated further east to the position they are in now. Sadly the Norman pulpitum screen at the end of the nave was also removed (the earliest of its kind to survive in any cathedral).
By the mid 19th century tastes had changed again and the Victorian preference for richness over Georgian austerity saw the cathedral restored under the direction of George Gilbert Scott. He restored the Octagon lantern to something much closer to its original appearance and added new screens at the crossing and behind the altar. Stained glass gradually filled the cathedral again and it remains one of the richest collections of Victorian glass in the country. The ceiling of the nave which had been left plain for centuries was given a new richly painted finish with scenes from the Old & New Testaments, begun by Henry le Strange but finished by Thomas Gambier Parry after the former had died halfway through the project. Gambier Parry also undertook the lavish redecoration of the interior of the Octagon lantern.
The cathedral has remained little change since and is one of the rewarding in the country. There is much of beauty to enjoy here beyond the architecture, with many interesting tombs and monuments from the medieval and post-Reformation periods. There is a wealth of stained glass of unusual richness; not everyone appreciates Victorian glass (indeed Alec Clifton Taylor was quite scathing about the glass here) but while it is very mixed I find much of it is of remarkably high quality.
Since 1972 the Stained Glass Museum has been housed in the nave triforium (originally on the north side, it was later transferred to the south where it currently remains). This is the only collection in the country solely devoted to the medium and is a great ambassador for it, with fine pieces covering a range of styles and illustrating the development of the art through the various backlit panels on show in the gallery.
Visitors can usually take tours to ascend the Octagon and even the west tower on more select days. Tours do get booked up though so it took me many visits before I could make my ascent, but happily this time I finally managed it and it was a wonderful experience I won't forget. Frustratingly I was unable to ascend the west tower since I was at a symposium on the day when tours were held so I hope to have better luck next time.
For more historical detail and context see below:-
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ely_Cathedral
For entry fees and tower tours see the cathedral's website below:-
Wells Cathedral is a magical place to me, having cast a spell over me from the very first time I laid eyes on it as a seven-year old when it started to be a regular break on our journeys south west for childhood holidays. Although it wasn't the first cathedral I'd encountered it was the first I'd seen after developing a more conscious interest in church art and architecture and it seemed to me like something from another world (which in many ways it is). I never forgot the impression it made, its beauties inside and out, and having not visited for nearly three decades I decided getting reacquainted was long overdue.
Described as England's 'Queen amongst cathedrals' it is not as huge as some but it is as beautiful as any, and its setting within the enclosure of a charming cathedral close that constitutes a large part of this modestly-sized but picturesque cathedral-city just adds to its qualities. Its three towers beckon the visitor through the turreted gates that connect the close to the market place and to walk through these and behold the west facade for the first time is an unforgettable experience. The central tower is a beautiful example of Somerset's pinnacled late Gothic masterpieces, and yet it almost disappears, practically forgotten, when one encounters the rich display between the two western towers with their curiously flat parapets. These towers are also mainly 15th century work, but below them, and built two centuries earlier, the facade unfolds like a huge screen covered with niches, most of which remarkably retain their original statues, the largest display of medieval sculpture surviving in England.
Currently visitors are directed to enter via the cloisters on the south side rather than through the surprisingly small, almost apologetic doorways burrowed through the base of this astonishing facade, so it is important to spend some time absorbing it before entering the building. Once inside the effect is rather calmer than the riot of ornamentation on the west front, and the scale a little more intimate and inviting than many cathedral interiors. Most of it is early 13th century and harmonious in style, but it is a later addition that draws the eye looking down the nave, the unique 'scissor arches' installed to brace the crossing in order to stabilise the central tower following signs of movement. The transepts beyond are of the same date and design as the nave, whilst further east the more ornate choir is a little later, being completed in the early 14th century. Beyond this the retrochoir and polygonal Lady Chapel with their delicate pillars and vaults form one of the most delightful and visually satisfying of English medieval interiors.
Furnishings and features of interest are plentiful as one explores the church admiring the beauty of its architecture, with much medieval glass surviving at the east end, the east window and the adjoining clerestories having survived almost intact (more survives in the choir aisles and lady chapel though aside from the traceries most is in a fragmentary state). Many medieval bishops effigies are to be seen (many forming a posthumous 13th century commemoration of earlier Saxon bishops) along with three chantry chapels. In the north transept is the famous medieval astronomical clock with its painted dials and jousting knights marking the quarter hours.
One of the most exquisite features is the chapter house also on the north side, approached via a delightfully timeworn staircase and covered by a particularly attractive vaulted ceiling. It is one of the highlights of the building and shouldn't be missed. The cloisters on the south side are also a delight to wander through and were one of the last major additions to the cathedral.
Wells Cathedral is without a doubt one of the country's greatest treasures and in my mind one of the most beautiful churches anywhere and even its surroundings are a joy to explore. Happily it now at last appears to be reopening after the long hiatus of lockdown, it deserves to be visited and enjoyed again by all once the present crisis is over.
Gloucester Cathedral is one of England's finest churches, a masterpiece of medieval architecture consisting of a uniquely beautiful fusion of Norman Romanesque and Perpendicular Gothic from the mid 14th century onwards. Until the Reformation this was merely Gloucester's Abbey of St Peter, under Henry VIII it became one of six former monastic churches to be promoted to cathedral status, thus saving the great church from the ravages of the Dissolution.
The most obviously Norman part is the nave, immediately apparent on entering the building with it's round arches and thick columns (the exterior is the result of Gothic remodelling). Much of the remainder of the building is substantially the Norman structure also, but almost entirely modified in the later Middle Ages inside and out, the result of the great revenue brought to the abbey by pilgrims to the tomb of the murdered King Edward II in the choir. It was this transformation of the Norman church that is credited with launching the late gothic Perpendicular style in England.
The gothic choir is a unique and spectacular work, the walls so heavily panelled as to suggest a huge stone cage (disguising the Norman arches behind) crowned by a glorious net-like vault adorned with numerous bosses (those over the Altar with superb figures of Christ and angels) whilst the east wall is entirely glazing in delicate stone tracery, and still preserving most of it's original 14th century stained glass. The soaring central tower, also richly panelled with delicate pinnacles, is another testament to the abbey's increasing wealth at this time.
The latest medieval additions to the church are equally glorious, the Lady Chapel is entered through the enormous east window and is itself a largely glazed structure, though the original glass has been reduced to a few fragments in the east window, the remainder now contains beautiful Arts & Crafts stained glass by Christopher and Veronica Whall.
The early 16th century cloisters to the north of the nave are some of the most beautiful anywhere, being completely covered by exquisite fan vaulting, with a separate lavatorium (washing room) attached to the north walk as a miniature version of the main passages.
There is much more of interest, from 14th century choir stalls with misericords to the comprehensive collection of tombs and monuments of various dates, including the elaborate tomb of Edward II and that of Robert Duke of Normandy, eldest son of William the Conqueror. The stained glass also represents all ages, from the 14th century to the striking contemporary windows by Tom Denny.
Further areas of the cathedral can be accessed at certain times, such as the Norman crypt under the choir and the triforium gallery above.
The magnificent former collegiate church of St Editha dominates the town centre of Tamworth. It is an impressively large building of mainly 14th - 15th century date with an imposing west tower (the stump of a former spire is just visible above the parapet), the lower part of which serves as a lofty main entrance and antechamber to the nave.
The spacious interior has several fine monuments (including several medieval tombs on the north side of the chancel and a splendid Baroque piece under the tower) and much fine stained glass by Pre Raphaelite artists (Burne Jones & Ford Madox Brown in the chancel, Henry Holiday in the nave aisles), one of the most rewarding displays in any Midland church.
The church is generally open to visitors most days between 10am & 4pm.
Conserved remains of a gothique castle, founded in early 14th Century. It stood on the rebel side in the Hussite side, but its owner switched sides in the last phase of the conflict, and the castle was unsuccesfuly besieged by Hussites in 1434. The owning lord is mentioned a few weeks later as one of the knights, who decided the battle of Lipany, in which the Hussites were definitely crushed. The castle was used together with a newly built baroque manor until 1621, when both were plundered and burned down by imperial soldiers. The manor was quickly restored, but the castle was abandoned, and parts of it were systematically demolished, after the whole county was sold to a enterpreneur. When his son, after he inherited the castle, is elevated to a noble in 1865, he sees himslef to be a successor to the knight tradition of the castle, stops its destruction and begins conservation efforts. In the communist era the ruin was statically conserved in the then-typical way, which was not the most sensitive, it was returned together with the manor to their last owners in 1990ies, and is freely accessible today, with deep cellars and tight tunnels undergrounds.
Gloucester Cathedral is one of England's finest churches, a masterpiece of medieval architecture consisting of a uniquely beautiful fusion of Norman Romanesque and Perpendicular Gothic from the mid 14th century onwards. Until the Reformation this was merely Gloucester's Abbey of St Peter, under Henry VIII it became one of six former monastic churches to be promoted to cathedral status, thus saving the great church from the ravages of the Dissolution.
The most obviously Norman part is the nave, immediately apparent on entering the building with it's round arches and thick columns (the exterior is the result of Gothic remodelling). Much of the remainder of the building is substantially the Norman structure also, but almost entirely modified in the later Middle Ages inside and out, the result of the great revenue brought to the abbey by pilgrims to the tomb of the murdered King Edward II in the choir. It was this transformation of the Norman church that is credited with launching the late gothic Perpendicular style in England.
The gothic choir is a unique and spectacular work, the walls so heavily panelled as to suggest a huge stone cage (disguising the Norman arches behind) crowned by a glorious net-like vault adorned with numerous bosses (those over the Altar with superb figures of Christ and angels) whilst the east wall is entirely glazing in delicate stone tracery, and still preserving most of it's original 14th century stained glass. The soaring central tower, also richly panelled with delicate pinnacles, is another testament to the abbey's increasing wealth at this time.
The latest medieval additions to the church are equally glorious, the Lady Chapel is entered through the enormous east window and is itself a largely glazed structure, though the original glass has been reduced to a few fragments in the east window, the remainder now contains beautiful Arts & Crafts stained glass by Christopher and Veronica Whall.
The early 16th century cloisters to the north of the nave are some of the most beautiful anywhere, being completely covered by exquisite fan vaulting, with a seperate lavatorium (washing room) attached to the north walk as a miniature version of the main passages.
There is much more of interest, from 14th century choir stalls with misericords to the comprehensive collection of tombs and monuments of various dates, including the elaborate tomb of Edward II and that of Robert Duke of Normandy, eldest son of William the Conqueror. The stained glass also represents all ages, from the 14th century to the striking contemporary windows by Tom Denny.
Further areas of the cathedral can be accessed at certain times, such as the Norman crypt under the choir and the triforium gallery above.
My visit coincided with the major 'Crucible' exhibition of contemporary sculpture (September-October 2010), examples of which I will upload in due course.
The responsibility for the procurement and labour and materials, design and construction of stone bridges during medieval period fell to the master mason who fulfilled the role of both, architect and builder
Beauvais cathedral represents medieval architecture at it's most ambitious, it's vaulted ceilings are the highest ever built.
This ambition came at a price, with the choir vault collapsing soon after it was constructed, so considerable reinforcement in the form of extra columns accompanied their reconstruction.
As a result of such traumas work on the cathedral was slow, and by the late Middle Ages the transepts had only just been completed with their impressive, late Gothic facades. The nave awaited construction, but rather than focus on this an act of pure folly led to priority being given to an enormous steeple over the crossing instead, giving this already loftiest of cathedrals one of the tallest, most elaborate spires ever concieved.
It all ended in disaster after only three years; the already overburdened columns couldn't support such a load for long, especially given the absence of a nave to reinforce the west side of the crossing, and the whole steeple came crashing down in 1573, never to be rebuilt.
The damage caused by the fall of the spire was repaired but all hopes of completing the cathedral were abandoned and the west end boarded up in 'temporary' fashion as it remains to this day. Bizarrely the remaining section of the Romanesque church that preceeded the cathedral was left in place as a result, and being such a modest building is utterly dwarfed by the soaring gothic structure towering over it.
Sadly it was too late in the day to get inside the cathedral, and our hopes of doing so at the start of the trip had been scuppered by our being burdened with luggage (having just arrived from Beauvais airport) and there being no left luggage facility at the local station!
Gloucester Cathedral is one of England's finest churches, a masterpiece of medieval architecture consisting of a uniquely beautiful fusion of Norman Romanesque and Perpendicular Gothic from the mid 14th century onwards. Until the Reformation this was merely Gloucester's Abbey of St Peter, under Henry VIII it became one of six former monastic churches to be promoted to cathedral status, thus saving the great church from the ravages of the Dissolution.
The most obviously Norman part is the nave, immediately apparent on entering the building with it's round arches and thick columns (the exterior is the result of Gothic remodelling). Much of the remainder of the building is substantially the Norman structure also, but almost entirely modified in the later Middle Ages inside and out, the result of the great revenue brought to the abbey by pilgrims to the tomb of the murdered King Edward II in the choir. It was this transformation of the Norman church that is credited with launching the late gothic Perpendicular style in England.
The gothic choir is a unique and spectacular work, the walls so heavily panelled as to suggest a huge stone cage (disguising the Norman arches behind) crowned by a glorious net-like vault adorned with numerous bosses (those over the Altar with superb figures of Christ and angels) whilst the east wall is entirely glazing in delicate stone tracery, and still preserving most of it's original 14th century stained glass. The soaring central tower, also richly panelled with delicate pinnacles, is another testament to the abbey's increasing wealth at this time.
The latest medieval additions to the church are equally glorious, the Lady Chapel is entered through the enormous east window and is itself a largely glazed structure, though the original glass has been reduced to a few fragments in the east window, the remainder now contains beautiful Arts & Crafts stained glass by Christopher and Veronica Whall.
The early 16th century cloisters to the north of the nave are some of the most beautiful anywhere, being completely covered by exquisite fan vaulting, with a seperate lavatorium (washing room) attached to the north walk as a miniature version of the main passages.
There is much more of interest, from 14th century choir stalls with misericords to the comprehensive collection of tombs and monuments of various dates, including the elaborate tomb of Edward II and that of Robert Duke of Normandy, eldest son of William the Conqueror. The stained glass also represents all ages, from the 14th century to the striking contemporary windows by Tom Denny.
Further areas of the cathedral can be accessed at certain times, such as the Norman crypt under the choir and the triforium gallery above.
www.gloucestercathedral.org.uk/
My visit coincided with the major 'Crucible' exhibition of contemporary sculpture (September-October 2010), examples of which I will upload in due course.
Originally founded as an Augustinian abbey in 1140, Bristol Cathedral has had a more chequered history than most, having only been elevated to a diocesan church in 1542 following the dissolution of the monastery. At the time it was granted cathedral status the church was also incomplete, a major rebuilding of the nave was underway but the Dissolution brought work to a halt and the unfinished parts were demolished. The new cathedral was a truncated church consisting of choir, transepts and central tower, (already on a smaller scale than many) and so it remained until the Victorian period when renewed interest in the Middle Ages reignited the desire to rebuild the nave. The work was done between 1868-77 to the designs of architect George Edmund Street (largely imitating the genuine medieval architecture of the choir) whilst the west front with its twin towers wasn't finished until 1888 (to the design of J.L.Pearson). Only then was Bristol cathedral a complete church again, after a gap of more than three centuries.
Architecturally this is also a rather unique building in England, since it follows the German pattern of a 'hall-church' where the main vessel (nave & choir) and the side aisles are all of the same height, thus there is no clerestorey and the aisle windows rise to the full height of the building. Externally this gives the building a rather more solid, muscular look, whilst within there is a greater sense of enclosed space, with the columns merging into the vaulted ceilings like trees sprouting branches. There are many striking architectural innovations here that don't seem to have been repeated elsewhere in 14th/15th century England, such as the distinctive designs of the choir aisle vaults which appear to rest on pierced bracings and the 'stellate' tomb-recesses punctuating the walls below. Further eccentric touches can be found in some of the side chapels of the eastern arm. Another unique feature is the fact the cathedral has two Lady Chapels, the major one being below the east window behind the high altar, whilst a further chapel (one of the earliest parts of the church) is attached to the north transept.
Beyond its impressive architectural features the cathedral contains much of interest, with its late medieval choir stalls surviving along with a few much restored elements of its 14th century glass (along with an interesting mixture of windows from later centuries) and several monumental tombs of note. Parts of the monastic complex remain too, with two sides of the cloister remaining and the superb Norman chapter house (one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture and carving in the country with some wonderfully rich-non-figurative decoration).
Frustratingly this visit was cut rather short by an impending service so I had to leave before making a full circuit of the building (it wasn't my first visit fortunately but my first opportunity to use a decent camera here) so much will have to wait until I find myself in Bristol again. I got around the bulk of the church but had to leave before I could get any shots of the north choir aisle and lady chapels (and had to miss the superb chapter house altogether). Unfinished business, an excuse to return.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bristol_Cathedral
Much fuller photographic coverage here:-
St Denys's church in Evington sits in a fairly rural setting on the edge of the village (which itself nowadays sits on the outer fringe of Leicester's suburban sprawl). It is a mainly 14th century building with a simple west tower and spire and some elaborately traceried windows in the north aisle (that at the west end is unusually ornate for such an inconspicuous position). Later alterations are apparent with the chancel, which is clearly a Victorian rebuilding, whilst from the south side of the church a glazed annex leads to modern parish rooms built in the early 21st century.
Within the church is spacious and well kept and also enlivened by some interesting glass, the chancel east window having an unusual design of angels around an ornamental cross, whilst in the south aisle some rich Victorian medallions compete with a vibrant early 20th century window with St Michael at its centre. The most significant pieces here however are the surviving 14th century traceries in some of the north aisle windows which include censing angels and heraldry.
I was made welcome here by the kindly people on duty and one gentleman drew my attention to the new glass installations in the recent extension, escorting me further into the function rooms to make sure I didn't miss another piece in there. I hope I didn't cause any offence when I edged back to the door after a few minutes, such moments can get a bit awkward when time is limited (especially ride and stride day as planned itineraries get harder to fulfil with each passing hour and only one day when so many churches are open).
I particularly liked St Denys, a lovely church which isn't likely to be open outside of services, but well worth a look if one is lucky enough to find otherwise.
Gloucester Cathedral is one of England's finest churches, a masterpiece of medieval architecture consisting of a uniquely beautiful fusion of Norman Romanesque and Perpendicular Gothic from the mid 14th century onwards. Until the Reformation this was merely Gloucester's Abbey of St Peter, under Henry VIII it became one of six former monastic churches to be promoted to cathedral status, thus saving the great church from the ravages of the Dissolution.
The most obviously Norman part is the nave, immediately apparent on entering the building with it's round arches and thick columns (the exterior is the result of Gothic remodelling). Much of the remainder of the building is substantially the Norman structure also, but almost entirely modified in the later Middle Ages inside and out, the result of the great revenue brought to the abbey by pilgrims to the tomb of the murdered King Edward II in the choir. It was this transformation of the Norman church that is credited with launching the late gothic Perpendicular style in England.
The gothic choir is a unique and spectacular work, the walls so heavily panelled as to suggest a huge stone cage (disguising the Norman arches behind) crowned by a glorious net-like vault adorned with numerous bosses (those over the Altar with superb figures of Christ and angels) whilst the east wall is entirely glazing in delicate stone tracery, and still preserving most of it's original 14th century stained glass. The soaring central tower, also richly panelled with delicate pinnacles, is another testament to the abbey's increasing wealth at this time.
The latest medieval additions to the church are equally glorious, the Lady Chapel is entered through the enormous east window and is itself a largely glazed structure, though the original glass has been reduced to a few fragments in the east window, the remainder now contains beautiful Arts & Crafts stained glass by Christopher and Veronica Whall.
The early 16th century cloisters to the north of the nave are some of the most beautiful anywhere, being completely covered by exquisite fan vaulting, with a separate lavatorium (washing room) attached to the north walk as a miniature version of the main passages.
There is much more of interest, from 14th century choir stalls with misericords to the comprehensive collection of tombs and monuments of various dates, including the elaborate tomb of Edward II and that of Robert Duke of Normandy, eldest son of William the Conqueror. The stained glass also represents all ages, from the 14th century to the striking contemporary windows by Tom Denny.
Further areas of the cathedral can be accessed at certain times, such as the Norman crypt under the choir and the triforium gallery above.
St John's sits at the entrance to Spon Street, that rare enclave of medieval architecture in Coventry's mostly post-war city centre. Being on the fringe of city's heart it generally gets less attention from visitors, thus one feels that in any other setting it would be far more celebrated, George Gilbert Scott, who restored the church in 1877, considered it 'one of the most beautiful churches in England'. The church luckily escaped major damage in the November 1940 Blitz that destroyed so much else in the city, beyond the loss of much (but not all) of it's Victorian stained glass.
The church was founded in 1342 by Queen Isabella, mother of Edward III, but most of what we see today is 15th century work, though evidently of different phases. The church sits on a relatively small site, but what it lacks in length and width it gains in height, and with it's tapering and unusually narrow clerestorey windows and central tower it gives the impression of a cathedral in miniature. The tower has oddly corbelled-out turrets at it's corners, an over-exaggeration of the original design by Scott; his main intervention on the exterior otherwise was the renewal of much of the stonework, since warm red sandstone is one of the least resistant to weathering.
The interior is surprisingly light for a sandstone church, the result of the large Perpendicular windows and extensive clerestorey that creates a 'glass cage' effect in the higher parts of the church. It is also rather narrow, which accentuates the proportions and sense of height further, a good example of architectural limitations and constraints turned to an advantage. There are some good medieval carvings surviving higher up, but otherwise aside from the fine Perpendicular architecture itself the impression is largely of early 20th century High Church Anglican worship, as most of the furnishings appear to date from this time, though they are nonetheless attractive and sympathetic to the building.
The lack of any relics of the Middle Ages in wood or glass or monuments of later periods is explained by the history of the church, since it actually ceased to be used for worship in the 1590s and for several centuries suffered various indignities of secular use, such as a prison for Scottish rebels captured after the Battle of Preston during the Civil War in 1648 (these rebels, loyal to the King, were shunned in the Parliamentarian held city, thus the phrase being 'Sent to Coventry' was born!). Other uses included as a stables, a market and a winding and dying house for cloth, before being eventually restored to church use in the 19th century. We should at least be glad that being put to other uses at least preserved the structure through it's centuries of hibernation.
The church posesses an interesting mixture of stained glass, from Victorian and Edwardian pieces that survived the bombing, to the more prominent and colourful windows installed in the 1950s. However it is interesting to note how the postwar glass here predates the nearby Cathedral's windows by only a few years, but is still highly figurative and traditional in approach, thus still a far cry from the revolutionary new works that Coventry became famous for less than a decade later.
St John's is open on saturday mornings but otherwise kept locked owing to concerns over security. Sadly it has suffered attacks from stone-throwing idiots on several occasions in recent years (I have repaired minor damage to several of the windows here) but the parishoners remain welcoming and friendly in spite of a difficult environment. It is a lovely church and well worth a visit.
For more detail and images see it's entry on the Warwickshire Churches website below:-
warwickshirechurches.weebly.com/coventry---st-john-the-ba...
St John's sits at the entrance to Spon Street, that rare enclave of medieval architecture in Coventry's mostly post-war city centre. Being on the fringe of city's heart it generally gets less attention from visitors, thus one feels that in any other setting it would be far more celebrated, George Gilbert Scott, who restored the church in 1877, considered it 'one of the most beautiful churches in England'. The church luckily escaped major damage in the November 1940 Blitz that destroyed so much else in the city, beyond the loss of much (but not all) of it's Victorian stained glass.
The church was founded in 1342 by Queen Isabella, mother of Edward III, but most of what we see today is 15th century work, though evidently of different phases. The church sits on a relatively small site, but what it lacks in length and width it gains in height, and with it's tapering and unusually narrow clerestorey windows and central tower it gives the impression of a cathedral in miniature. The tower has oddly corbelled-out turrets at it's corners, an over-exaggeration of the original design by Scott; his main intervention on the exterior otherwise was the renewal of much of the stonework, since warm red sandstone is one of the least resistant to weathering.
The interior is surprisingly light for a sandstone church, the result of the large Perpendicular windows and extensive clerestorey that creates a 'glass cage' effect in the higher parts of the church. It is also rather narrow, which accentuates the proportions and sense of height further, a good example of architectural limitations and constraints turned to an advantage. There are some good medieval carvings surviving higher up, but otherwise aside from the fine Perpendicular architecture itself the impression is largely of early 20th century High Church Anglican worship, as most of the furnishings appear to date from this time, though they are nonetheless attractive and sympathetic to the building.
The lack of any relics of the Middle Ages in wood or glass or monuments of later periods is explained by the history of the church, since it actually ceased to be used for worship in the 1590s and for several centuries suffered various indignities of secular use, such as a prison for Scottish rebels captured after the Battle of Preston during the Civil War in 1648 (these rebels, loyal to the King, were shunned in the Parliamentarian held city, thus the phrase being 'Sent to Coventry' was born!). Other uses included as a stables, a market and a winding and dying house for cloth, before being eventually restored to church use in the 19th century. We should at least be glad that being put to other uses at least preserved the structure through it's centuries of hibernation.
The church posesses an interesting mixture of stained glass, from Victorian and Edwardian pieces that survived the bombing, to the more prominent and colourful windows installed in the 1950s. However it is interesting to note how the postwar glass here predates the nearby Cathedral's windows by only a few years, but is still highly figurative and traditional in approach, thus still a far cry from the revolutionary new works that Coventry became famous for less than a decade later.
St John's is open on saturday mornings but otherwise kept locked owing to concerns over security. Sadly it has suffered attacks from stone-throwing idiots on several occasions in recent years (I have repaired minor damage to several of the windows here) but the parishoners remain welcoming and friendly in spite of a difficult environment. It is a lovely church and well worth a visit.
For more detail and images see it's entry on the Warwickshire Churches website below:-
warwickshirechurches.weebly.com/coventry---st-john-the-ba...
Once a majestic castle, founded in 1276 by a lesser noble family which came to colonize the deep woods in central Bohemia. It survived the turbulent 15th Century, and the owners definitely lost it in 1575. The castle was ransacked by the Imperial army in 1618, and demolished by Swedes in 1645. The abandoned area was then used for restoration of the village, stone walls were disassembled, terrain flattened. There is a complex cellar system, which was used by the locals until the 19th Century. New houses were built on the bailey, and today only a part of a palace is still standing.
St John's sits at the entrance to Spon Street, that rare enclave of medieval architecture in Coventry's mostly post-war city centre. Being on the fringe of city's heart it generally gets less attention from visitors, thus one feels that in any other setting it would be far more celebrated, George Gilbert Scott, who restored the church in 1877, considered it 'one of the most beautiful churches in England'. The church luckily escaped major damage in the November 1940 Blitz that destroyed so much else in the city, beyond the loss of much (but not all) of it's Victorian stained glass.
The church was founded in 1342 by Queen Isabella, mother of Edward III, but most of what we see today is 15th century work, though evidently of different phases. The church sits on a relatively small site, but what it lacks in length and width it gains in height, and with it's tapering and unusually narrow clerestorey windows and central tower it gives the impression of a cathedral in miniature. The tower has oddly corbelled-out turrets at it's corners, an over-exaggeration of the original design by Scott; his main intervention on the exterior otherwise was the renewal of much of the stonework, since warm red sandstone is one of the least resistant to weathering.
The interior is surprisingly light for a sandstone church, the result of the large Perpendicular windows and extensive clerestorey that creates a 'glass cage' effect in the higher parts of the church. It is also rather narrow, which accentuates the proportions and sense of height further, a good example of architectural limitations and constraints turned to an advantage. There are some good medieval carvings surviving higher up, but otherwise aside from the fine Perpendicular architecture itself the impression is largely of early 20th century High Church Anglican worship, as most of the furnishings appear to date from this time, though they are nonetheless attractive and sympathetic to the building.
The lack of any relics of the Middle Ages in wood or glass or monuments of later periods is explained by the history of the church, since it actually ceased to be used for worship in the 1590s and for several centuries suffered various indignities of secular use, such as a prison for Scottish rebels captured after the Battle of Preston during the Civil War in 1648 (these rebels, loyal to the King, were shunned in the Parliamentarian held city, thus the phrase being 'Sent to Coventry' was born!). Other uses included as a stables, a market and a winding and dying house for cloth, before being eventually restored to church use in the 19th century. We should at least be glad that being put to other uses at least preserved the structure through it's centuries of hibernation.
The church posesses an interesting mixture of stained glass, from Victorian and Edwardian pieces that survived the bombing, to the more prominent and colourful windows installed in the 1950s. However it is interesting to note how the postwar glass here predates the nearby Cathedral's windows by only a few years, but is still highly figurative and traditional in approach, thus still a far cry from the revolutionary new works that Coventry became famous for less than a decade later.
St John's is open on saturday mornings but otherwise kept locked owing to concerns over security. Sadly it has suffered attacks from stone-throwing idiots on several occasions in recent years (I have repaired minor damage to several of the windows here) but the parishoners remain welcoming and friendly in spite of a difficult environment. It is a lovely church and well worth a visit.
For more detail and images see it's entry on the Warwickshire Churches website below:-
warwickshirechurches.weebly.com/coventry---st-john-the-ba...
St John's sits at the entrance to Spon Street, that rare enclave of medieval architecture in Coventry's mostly post-war city centre. Being on the fringe of city's heart it generally gets less attention from visitors, thus one feels that in any other setting it would be far more celebrated, George Gilbert Scott, who restored the church in 1877, considered it 'one of the most beautiful churches in England'. The church luckily escaped major damage in the November 1940 Blitz that destroyed so much else in the city, beyond the loss of much (but not all) of it's Victorian stained glass.
The church was founded in 1342 by Queen Isabella, mother of Edward III, but most of what we see today is 15th century work, though evidently of different phases. The church sits on a relatively small site, but what it lacks in length and width it gains in height, and with it's tapering and unusually narrow clerestorey windows and central tower it gives the impression of a cathedral in miniature. The tower has oddly corbelled-out turrets at it's corners, an over-exaggeration of the original design by Scott; his main intervention on the exterior otherwise was the renewal of much of the stonework, since warm red sandstone is one of the least resistant to weathering.
The interior is surprisingly light for a sandstone church, the result of the large Perpendicular windows and extensive clerestorey that creates a 'glass cage' effect in the higher parts of the church. It is also rather narrow, which accentuates the proportions and sense of height further, a good example of architectural limitations and constraints turned to an advantage. There are some good medieval carvings surviving higher up, but otherwise aside from the fine Perpendicular architecture itself the impression is largely of early 20th century High Church Anglican worship, as most of the furnishings appear to date from this time, though they are nonetheless attractive and sympathetic to the building.
The lack of any relics of the Middle Ages in wood or glass or monuments of later periods is explained by the history of the church, since it actually ceased to be used for worship in the 1590s and for several centuries suffered various indignities of secular use, such as a prison for Scottish rebels captured after the Battle of Preston during the Civil War in 1648 (these rebels, loyal to the King, were shunned in the Parliamentarian held city, thus the phrase being 'Sent to Coventry' was born!). Other uses included as a stables, a market and a winding and dying house for cloth, before being eventually restored to church use in the 19th century. We should at least be glad that being put to other uses at least preserved the structure through it's centuries of hibernation.
The church posesses an interesting mixture of stained glass, from Victorian and Edwardian pieces that survived the bombing, to the more prominent and colourful windows installed in the 1950s. However it is interesting to note how the postwar glass here predates the nearby Cathedral's windows by only a few years, but is still highly figurative and traditional in approach, thus still a far cry from the revolutionary new works that Coventry became famous for less than a decade later.
St John's is open on saturday mornings but otherwise kept locked owing to concerns over security. Sadly it has suffered attacks from stone-throwing idiots on several occasions in recent years (I have repaired minor damage to several of the windows here) but the parishoners remain welcoming and friendly in spite of a difficult environment. It is a lovely church and well worth a visit.
For more detail and images see it's entry on the Warwickshire Churches website below:-
warwickshirechurches.weebly.com/coventry---st-john-the-ba...