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Of all the churches I planned to see on this excursion this was the one that I was the most excited about, not only is Blythburgh one of Suffolk's finest but among the best and grandest parish churches in the country, all the more surprising in this rural location. I'd known about it for decades, so it was most satisfying to finally get to see it for myself.
Holy Trinity at Blythburgh dates mostly from the 15th century, a grand essay in the Perpendicular Gothic style. The first impression is of flint walls punctuated by a mass of windows, especially in the clerestorey above, along with the building's great size and length. The is much ornamental carving around the windows and parapet, most strikingly the carved figures that stand in place of pinnacles. The tower by contrast appears rather plain, a stern sentinel watching over the building; this is in part due to storm damage in 1577 which brought down the steeple and is likely when the belfry windows lost their tracery and received their current boarded-over appearance. The south porch below makes a grand statement and beckons us to enter, noting the unusual survival of a water-stoup.
Inside a vast space is revealed, well lit by mostly clear-glazed windows and and filled with ancient woodwork. Not only is this church beautiful it is also delightfully authentic, having undergone little restoration over the centuries (it must have been a heavy burden for such a small community) and thus is a place of real ageless atmosphere, most of the furnishings are pre-Victorian and the only coloured glass is the collection of medieval fragments in the traceries of a few windows.
The most impressive feature is the roof, retaining much of its original painted decoration and angel figures down the centre, also retaining much colour. This feature was familiar to me from so many photos in books, but in finally seeing it with my own eyes it lost none of its impact. It extends almost the full length of the building as there is little structural division between nave and chancel.
After absorbing the beauties above attention should go to the riot of medieval carving at ground level, where all the nave pews retain their 15th century bench-ends with figurative carvings, some with subjects from the Acts of Mercy and Seven Deadly Sins, not all in great condition but a remarkable survival nonetheless. In the chancel the stall fronts bear surprisingly well preserved rows of carved canopied apostles, not necessarily in situ as much of the woodwork looks reconstructed but the figures themselves appear to be rare medieval survivals.
This is a church to spend some time in and soak up its special atmosphere. Being on a bit of a mission that day I didn't have time to sit peacefully as one should, but it was the longest stop on my itinerary, and one of the most rewarding, I'd happily return.
This is one of the 'must see' churches of Suffolk and is always open and welcoming by day accordingly. For the third time that day I met a couple doing a similar excursion to me and we briefly chatted about what a joy it is to visit, I urge others to do likewise.
Detail of one of the series of Victorian stained glass windows by Hardman's of Birmingham in the cloisters at Gloucester.
Gloucester Cathedral is one of England's finest churches, a masterpiece of medieval architecture consisting of a uniquely beautiful fusion of Norman Romanesque and Perpendicular Gothic from the mid 14th century onwards. Until the Reformation this was merely Gloucester's Abbey of St Peter, under Henry VIII it became one of six former monastic churches to be promoted to cathedral status, thus saving the great church from the ravages of the Dissolution.
The most obviously Norman part is the nave, immediately apparent on entering the building with it's round arches and thick columns (the exterior is the result of Gothic remodelling). Much of the remainder of the building is substantially the Norman structure also, but almost entirely modified in the later Middle Ages inside and out, the result of the great revenue brought to the abbey by pilgrims to the tomb of the murdered King Edward II in the choir. It was this transformation of the Norman church that is credited with launching the late gothic Perpendicular style in England.
The gothic choir is a unique and spectacular work, the walls so heavily panelled as to suggest a huge stone cage (disguising the Norman arches behind) crowned by a glorious net-like vault adorned with numerous bosses (those over the Altar with superb figures of Christ and angels) whilst the east wall is entirely glazing in delicate stone tracery, and still preserving most of it's original 14th century stained glass. The soaring central tower, also richly panelled with delicate pinnacles, is another testament to the abbey's increasing wealth at this time.
The latest medieval additions to the church are equally glorious, the Lady Chapel is entered through the enormous east window and is itself a largely glazed structure, though the original glass has been reduced to a few fragments in the east window, the remainder now contains beautiful Arts & Crafts stained glass by Christopher and Veronica Whall.
The early 16th century cloisters to the north of the nave are some of the most beautiful anywhere, being completely covered by exquisite fan vaulting, with a seperate lavatorium (washing room) attached to the north walk as a miniature version of the main passages.
There is much more of interest, from 14th century choir stalls with misericords to the comprehensive collection of tombs and monuments of various dates, including the elaborate tomb of Edward II and that of Robert Duke of Normandy, eldest son of William the Conqueror. The stained glass also represents all ages, from the 14th century to the striking contemporary windows by Tom Denny.
Further areas of the cathedral can be accessed at certain times, such as the Norman crypt under the choir and the triforium gallery above.
My visit coincided with the major 'Crucible' exhibition of contemporary sculpture (September-October 2010), examples of which I will upload in due course.
Toledo, Spain.
"The cathedral of Toledo is one of the three 13th-century High Gothic cathedrals in Spain. It was begun in 1226 under the rule of Ferdinand III, and the last Gothic contributions were made in the 15th century when, in 1493, the vaults of the central nave were finished during the time of the Catholic Monarchs. It was modeled after the Bourges Cathedral, although its five naves plan is a consequence of the constructors' intention to cover all of the sacred space of the former city mosque with the cathedral. The spectacular incorporation of light and the structural achievements of the ambulatory vaults are some of its more remarkable aspects. It is built with white limestone from the quarries of Olihuelas, near Toledo."
Originally founded as an Augustinian abbey in 1140, Bristol Cathedral has had a more chequered history than most, having only been elevated to a diocesan church in 1542 following the dissolution of the monastery. At the time it was granted cathedral status the church was also incomplete, a major rebuilding of the nave was underway but the Dissolution brought work to a halt and the unfinished parts were demolished. The new cathedral was a truncated church consisting of choir, transepts and central tower, (already on a smaller scale than many) and so it remained until the Victorian period when renewed interest in the Middle Ages reignited the desire to rebuild the nave. The work was done between 1868-77 to the designs of architect George Edmund Street (largely imitating the genuine medieval architecture of the choir) whilst the west front with its twin towers wasn't finished until 1888 (to the design of J.L.Pearson). Only then was Bristol cathedral a complete church again, after a gap of more than three centuries.
Architecturally this is also a rather unique building in England, since it follows the German pattern of a 'hall-church' where the main vessel (nave & choir) and the side aisles are all of the same height, thus there is no clerestorey and the aisle windows rise to the full height of the building. Externally this gives the building a rather more solid, muscular look, whilst within there is a greater sense of enclosed space, with the columns merging into the vaulted ceilings like trees sprouting branches. There are many striking architectural innovations here that don't seem to have been repeated elsewhere in 14th/15th century England, such as the distinctive designs of the choir aisle vaults which appear to rest on pierced bracings and the 'stellate' tomb-recesses punctuating the walls below. Further eccentric touches can be found in some of the side chapels of the eastern arm. Another unique feature is the fact the cathedral has two Lady Chapels, the major one being below the east window behind the high altar, whilst a further chapel (one of the earliest parts of the church) is attached to the north transept.
Beyond its impressive architectural features the cathedral contains much of interest, with its late medieval choir stalls surviving along with a few much restored elements of its 14th century glass (along with an interesting mixture of windows from later centuries) and several monumental tombs of note. Parts of the monastic complex remain too, with two sides of the cloister remaining and the superb Norman chapter house (one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture and carving in the country with some wonderfully rich-non-figurative decoration).
Frustratingly this visit was cut rather short by an impending service so I had to leave before making a full circuit of the building (it wasn't my first visit fortunately but my first opportunity to use a decent camera here) so much will have to wait until I find myself in Bristol again. I got around the bulk of the church but had to leave before I could get any shots of the north choir aisle and lady chapels (and had to miss the superb chapter house altogether). Unfinished business, an excuse to return.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bristol_Cathedral
Much fuller photographic coverage here:-
Window from 1961 by Harry Clarke Studios of Dublin (over 20 years after the death of Clarke himself). The design depicts the Risen Christ surrounded by vignettes representing the Seven Sacraments.
St John's sits at the entrance to Spon Street, that rare enclave of medieval architecture in Coventry's mostly post-war city centre. Being on the fringe of city's heart it generally gets less attention from visitors, thus one feels that in any other setting it would be far more celebrated, George Gilbert Scott, who restored the church in 1877, considered it 'one of the most beautiful churches in England'. The church luckily escaped major damage in the November 1940 Blitz that destroyed so much else in the city, beyond the loss of much (but not all) of it's Victorian stained glass.
The church was founded in 1342 by Queen Isabella, mother of Edward III, but most of what we see today is 15th century work, though evidently of different phases. The church sits on a relatively small site, but what it lacks in length and width it gains in height, and with it's tapering and unusually narrow clerestorey windows and central tower it gives the impression of a cathedral in miniature. The tower has oddly corbelled-out turrets at it's corners, an over-exaggeration of the original design by Scott; his main intervention on the exterior otherwise was the renewal of much of the stonework, since warm red sandstone is one of the least resistant to weathering.
The interior is surprisingly light for a sandstone church, the result of the large Perpendicular windows and extensive clerestorey that creates a 'glass cage' effect in the higher parts of the church. It is also rather narrow, which accentuates the proportions and sense of height further, a good example of architectural limitations and constraints turned to an advantage. There are some good medieval carvings surviving higher up, but otherwise aside from the fine Perpendicular architecture itself the impression is largely of early 20th century High Church Anglican worship, as most of the furnishings appear to date from this time, though they are nonetheless attractive and sympathetic to the building.
The lack of any relics of the Middle Ages in wood or glass or monuments of later periods is explained by the history of the church, since it actually ceased to be used for worship in the 1590s and for several centuries suffered various indignities of secular use, such as a prison for Scottish rebels captured after the Battle of Preston during the Civil War in 1648 (these rebels, loyal to the King, were shunned in the Parliamentarian held city, thus the phrase being 'Sent to Coventry' was born!). Other uses included as a stables, a market and a winding and dying house for cloth, before being eventually restored to church use in the 19th century. We should be glad that being put to other uses at least preserved the structure through it's centuries of hibernation.
The church possesses an interesting mixture of stained glass, from Victorian and Edwardian pieces that survived the bombing, to the more prominent and colourful windows installed in the 1950s. However it is interesting to note how the postwar glass here predates the nearby Cathedral's windows by only a few years, but is still highly figurative and traditional in approach, thus still a far cry from the revolutionary new works that Coventry became famous for less than a decade later.
St John's is generally open on Saturday mornings but otherwise kept locked owing to concerns over security. Sadly it has suffered attacks from stone-throwing idiots on several occasions in recent years (I have repaired minor damage to several of the windows here) but the parishoners remain welcoming and friendly in spite of a difficult environment. It is a lovely church and well worth a visit.
For more detail and images see it's entry on the Warwickshire Churches website below:-
warwickshirechurches.weebly.com/coventry---st-john-the-ba...
Montalbano Elicona is a comune (municipality) in the Province of Messina in the Italian region Sicily, located about 150 km east of Palermo and about 50 km southwest of Messina. As of 31 December 2004, it had a population of 2,687 and an area of 67.4 km². It is mainly known for the castle built in 1233 by the Emperor Frederic II and the medieval architecture of its streets.The municipality of Montalbano Elicona contains the frazioni (subdivisions, mainly villages and hamlets) Pellizzaro, Toscano, Santa Barbara,Casale, Villa Braidi, and Santa Maria, Santa Venera e Santo Stefano.Montalbano Elicona borders the following municipalities: Basicò, Falcone, Floresta, Francavilla di Sicilia, Librizzi, Malvagna, Oliveri, Patti, Raccuja, Roccella Valdemone, San Piero Patti, Santa Domenica Vittoria, Tripi.Crowned from a majestic Castle, encircled from secular forests that they perfume of thousands essences it is one of the antichi and evocative centers of the nebroidea area, rich of stroria, art and traditions. The students from ten years discuss on the origins of the country and of name. Montalbano Elicona derives from the Latin names mons albus with reference to mounts covered with snow or from the Arabic names al bana meaning of "excellent place". During the period of the Greek colonization (VII-VIII sec. B.C.), Dori, thinking to the mythical mount of the Muse, called Helikon the place that coinciding with the rise on which rises the medieval village and a torrent whose tortuous course justifies the name. First news about the existence of the village dates back to the XI century when it was a State possession. In 1232 it revolted against Federick II of Swabia, and supported the Pope together with other centres. Later it has belonged to different feudatories: Lancias in 1396, Romano Colonnas, Bonannos in 1587. It is prevalently an agricultural centre. Products mostly cultivated are grapes, cereals, chestnuts, walnuts, hazel-nuts. Very good are dairying products typical of the place. The tipical gastronomy are "maccheroni stirati a mano" and seasoned with sauce of pork, mutton and goat's meat. More important is the production of sweet whith almond, hazelnut and the typical biscuit of the Easter. The most interesting monuments are the Mother Church , today known as the Basilica Minore and the Church of S. Caterina. Built in Middle Ages, the Church Mother, was refounded and enlarged in 1654 by adding two side aisles and the splendid bell tower. The Church dedicated to San Nicola, the Saint Patron of the town, had a precious statue, built by Gagini in 1587. Neighbouring to castle there is the Church of Santa Caterina. It has a wonderful portal in romantic style. In the interior there is a statue of the Sant made in marble with a bas-relief base. Interesting to see are also some beautiful baroque portals: the Portale di casa Messina-Ballarino, built by Irardi da Napoli in the seventeenth century and the Portale di casa Mastropaolo, built in the eighteenth century by a stone-cutter born in Montalbano Elicona and named Bongiovanni and also the fountain of Gattuso.
Montalbano Elicona è un comune italiano di 2.485 abitanti della provincia di Messina in Sicilia.È caratterizzato dalla presenza, nella parte antica dell'abitato, di un antico Castello che fu residenza estiva di re Federico II di Aragona.La prima parte del nome è un composto di mons (monte) e albanus, da albus, bianco. In specifico, si riferisce all'antico nome del monte su cui fu realizzato un castello per volere di Federico II d'Aragona.Gli studiosi non sono concordi sulle origini del paese e del suo nome. Alcuni fanno risalire tale origine dai nomi latini mons albus con riferimento ai monti innevati, altri al nome arabo al bana, dal suggestivo significato di "luogo eccellente". L'appellativo Elicona risale senz'altro alla colonizzazione greca. Durante il periodo della colonizzazione (VII-VIII secolo a.C.), i Dori, pensando al mitico monte delle Muse, chiamarono Helikon un sito, coincidente con l'altura su cui sorge il borgo medievale ed un torrente vicino il cui andamento tortuoso giustifica l'appellativo.
Le prime testimonianze sull'esistenza del borgo risalgono all'XI secolo, quando risultava possesso demaniale. Nel 1232 si rivoltò contro Federico II di Svevia, parteggiando per il Papa insieme ad altri centri. Successivamente appartenne a diversi feudatari: ai Lancia nel 1396, ai Romano Colonna, ai Bonanno nel 1587.Montalbano Elicona è stato inserito nell'elenco dei 90 borghi medievali più belli d'Italia, cioè nel club de I borghi più belli d'Italia, un'esclusiva associazione di piccoli centri italiani che si distinguono per grande interesse artistico, culturale e storico, per l'armonia del tessuto urbano, vivibilità e servizi ai cittadini. Tra le chiese di interesse artistico certamente è da sottolineare la Basilica di Maria Assunta in cielo (Duomo) con le sue opere d'arte, in particolare quelle del Gagini.
St Nicholas Cathedral in Newcastle upon Tyne was originally built as the main parish church, but was elevated to cathedral status upon the foundation of the new Diocese of Newcastle in 1882. Unlike a number of the elevated 'parish church cathedrals' it remains substantially as it was prior to it's raised status, the main changes effecting the furnishings rather than making any ambitious extensions to the building (since the church is somewhat hemmed in on all sides and was already a substantial cruciform building).
The church was founded as far back as 1091 but most of the present structure is the result of rebuilding in the 14th and 15th centuries, culminating in the astonishing west tower with its rare 'crown steeple' (a lantern carried on flying buttresses, the only surviving medieval example in England) which is the outstanding architectural feature of the cathedral and a major landmark of the city's skyline. Externally the rest of the building appears more modest by comparison with the soaring tower, its roof lying relatively low.
Within the impression is still that of a major city church rather than a cathedral owing to its dimensions, but the furnishings and fittings significantly enhance its grandeur. Despite the proportions (less height, more width) the footprint of the church is extensive with substantial transepts (below that on the north side is a small barrel-vaulted crypt) and a choir arranged with an ambulatory behind an impressive Victorian reredos. The choir stalls date from the elevation to cathedral status and do create the required effect of added gravitas despite the more limited space.
There are several impressive monuments from across the centuries, the most significant being the large Flemish-made 15th century brass situated at the rear of the high altar, originally from All Saints church and said to be the largest medieval brass in the country.
Newcastle Cathedral is one of the most rewarding of our 'parish church cathedrals' and deserves more time than I was able to devote to it on this trip.
Gloucester Cathedral is one of England's finest churches, a masterpiece of medieval architecture consisting of a uniquely beautiful fusion of Norman Romanesque and Perpendicular Gothic from the mid 14th century onwards. Until the Reformation this was merely Gloucester's Abbey of St Peter, under Henry VIII it became one of six former monastic churches to be promoted to cathedral status, thus saving the great church from the ravages of the Dissolution.
The most obviously Norman part is the nave, immediately apparent on entering the building with it's round arches and thick columns (the exterior is the result of Gothic remodelling). Much of the remainder of the building is substantially the Norman structure also, but almost entirely modified in the later Middle Ages inside and out, the result of the great revenue brought to the abbey by pilgrims to the tomb of the murdered King Edward II in the choir. It was this transformation of the Norman church that is credited with launching the late gothic Perpendicular style in England.
The gothic choir is a unique and spectacular work, the walls so heavily panelled as to suggest a huge stone cage (disguising the Norman arches behind) crowned by a glorious net-like vault adorned with numerous bosses (those over the Altar with superb figures of Christ and angels) whilst the east wall is entirely glazing in delicate stone tracery, and still preserving most of it's original 14th century stained glass. The soaring central tower, also richly panelled with delicate pinnacles, is another testament to the abbey's increasing wealth at this time.
The latest medieval additions to the church are equally glorious, the Lady Chapel is entered through the enormous east window and is itself a largely glazed structure, though the original glass has been reduced to a few fragments in the east window, the remainder now contains beautiful Arts & Crafts stained glass by Christopher and Veronica Whall.
The early 16th century cloisters to the north of the nave are some of the most beautiful anywhere, being completely covered by exquisite fan vaulting, with a seperate lavatorium (washing room) attached to the north walk as a miniature version of the main passages.
There is much more of interest, from 14th century choir stalls with misericords to the comprehensive collection of tombs and monuments of various dates, including the elaborate tomb of Edward II and that of Robert Duke of Normandy, eldest son of William the Conqueror. The stained glass also represents all ages, from the 14th century to the striking contemporary windows by Tom Denny.
Further areas of the cathedral can be accessed at certain times, such as the Norman crypt under the choir and the triforium gallery above.
Gloucester Cathedral is one of England's finest churches, a masterpiece of medieval architecture consisting of a uniquely beautiful fusion of Norman Romanesque and Perpendicular Gothic from the mid 14th century onwards. Until the Reformation this was merely Gloucester's Abbey of St Peter, under Henry VIII it became one of six former monastic churches to be promoted to cathedral status, thus saving the great church from the ravages of the Dissolution.
The most obviously Norman part is the nave, immediately apparent on entering the building with it's round arches and thick columns (the exterior is the result of Gothic remodelling). Much of the remainder of the building is substantially the Norman structure also, but almost entirely modified in the later Middle Ages inside and out, the result of the great revenue brought to the abbey by pilgrims to the tomb of the murdered King Edward II in the choir. It was this transformation of the Norman church that is credited with launching the late gothic Perpendicular style in England.
The gothic choir is a unique and spectacular work, the walls so heavily panelled as to suggest a huge stone cage (disguising the Norman arches behind) crowned by a glorious net-like vault adorned with numerous bosses (those over the Altar with superb figures of Christ and angels) whilst the east wall is entirely glazing in delicate stone tracery, and still preserving most of it's original 14th century stained glass. The soaring central tower, also richly panelled with delicate pinnacles, is another testament to the abbey's increasing wealth at this time.
The latest medieval additions to the church are equally glorious, the Lady Chapel is entered through the enormous east window and is itself a largely glazed structure, though the original glass has been reduced to a few fragments in the east window, the remainder now contains beautiful Arts & Crafts stained glass by Christopher and Veronica Whall.
The early 16th century cloisters to the north of the nave are some of the most beautiful anywhere, being completely covered by exquisite fan vaulting, with a separate lavatorium (washing room) attached to the north walk as a miniature version of the main passages.
There is much more of interest, from 14th century choir stalls with misericords to the comprehensive collection of tombs and monuments of various dates, including the elaborate tomb of Edward II and that of Robert Duke of Normandy, eldest son of William the Conqueror. The stained glass also represents all ages, from the 14th century to the striking contemporary windows by Tom Denny.
Further areas of the cathedral can be accessed at certain times, such as the Norman crypt under the choir and the triforium gallery above.
Gloucester Cathedral is one of England's finest churches, a masterpiece of medieval architecture consisting of a uniquely beautiful fusion of Norman Romanesque and Perpendicular Gothic from the mid 14th century onwards. Until the Reformation this was merely Gloucester's Abbey of St Peter, under Henry VIII it became one of six former monastic churches to be promoted to cathedral status, thus saving the great church from the ravages of the Dissolution.
The most obviously Norman part is the nave, immediately apparent on entering the building with it's round arches and thick columns (the exterior is the result of Gothic remodelling). Much of the remainder of the building is substantially the Norman structure also, but almost entirely modified in the later Middle Ages inside and out, the result of the great revenue brought to the abbey by pilgrims to the tomb of the murdered King Edward II in the choir. It was this transformation of the Norman church that is credited with launching the late gothic Perpendicular style in England.
The gothic choir is a unique and spectacular work, the walls so heavily panelled as to suggest a huge stone cage (disguising the Norman arches behind) crowned by a glorious net-like vault adorned with numerous bosses (those over the Altar with superb figures of Christ and angels) whilst the east wall is entirely glazing in delicate stone tracery, and still preserving most of it's original 14th century stained glass. The soaring central tower, also richly panelled with delicate pinnacles, is another testament to the abbey's increasing wealth at this time.
The latest medieval additions to the church are equally glorious, the Lady Chapel is entered through the enormous east window and is itself a largely glazed structure, though the original glass has been reduced to a few fragments in the east window, the remainder now contains beautiful Arts & Crafts stained glass by Christopher and Veronica Whall.
The early 16th century cloisters to the north of the nave are some of the most beautiful anywhere, being completely covered by exquisite fan vaulting, with a seperate lavatorium (washing room) attached to the north walk as a miniature version of the main passages.
There is much more of interest, from 14th century choir stalls with misericords to the comprehensive collection of tombs and monuments of various dates, including the elaborate tomb of Edward II and that of Robert Duke of Normandy, eldest son of William the Conqueror. The stained glass also represents all ages, from the 14th century to the striking contemporary windows by Tom Denny.
Further areas of the cathedral can be accessed at certain times, such as the Norman crypt under the choir and the triforium gallery above.
My visit coincided with the major 'Crucible' exhibition of contemporary sculpture (September-October 2010), examples of which I will upload in due course.
Detail from the magnificent chantry chapel of Prince Arthur at Worcester, a masterpiece of late medieval architecture and sculpture and the last resting place of Henry VIII's elder brother.
Worcester Cathedral is the commanding presence on the skyline of the city, perched on high ground overlooking the River Severn. It is one of England's most rewarding cathedrals, though denied first rank status owing to the heavy handed Victorian restorations it underwent, an unavoidable consequence of being built of soft red sandstone (a problem shared with Chester and Lichfield) and thus a 19th century feel pervades inside and out in it's mostly renewed external stonework and furnishings.
The cathedral impresses with it's scale, one or our longer churches, crowned by a magnificent central tower (originally surmounted by a lead spire, lost sometime after the Refomation; subtle alterations to the tower's design were made when it was refaced in the Victorian restoration) and with a secondary pair of transepts flanking the choir (as at Salisbury, Lincoln, Rochester & Canterbury). Of the former monastic buildings the cloister and Norman chapter house have survived (along with the refectory, now part of neighbouring King's School), making this a more complex and enjoyable building to explore.
The earliest parts are of the Norman period with the superb 12th century crypt under the choir. The west end of the nave is also Norman work, though very late and unusual in design, with transitional pointed arches. However the bulk of the building we see dates from the 13th and 14th centuries, the east end in Early English gothic style (where most of the windows were restored to stepped lancets by Sir George Gilbert Scott during the Victorian restoration, having been altered over the centuries), whilst the remainder of the nave and tower largely of the Decorated period (the cathedral originally also possessed a detached octagonal bell tower with a lead spire, which stood near the north east corner but was demolished in 1647).
Of the original furnishings little remains beyond the fine set of misericords in the choir stalls. The stained glass too is nearly entirely Victorian (only some meagre, much restored medieval fragments survive in traceries of the south aisle). Much of the Victorian glass is quite impressive, particularly the great east and west windows by Hardman's of Birmingham.
Worcester is however especially rich in tombs and monuments of all periods, with medieval effigies of bishops, knights and ladies, not all in good condition but worth seeking out. There are also several large tombs from the post-Reformation period (especially in the cluttered south aisle) and some fine Baroque work in the north transept.
The most significant of the monuments here are Royal; in the centre of the choir lies the fine 13th century effigy of King John, best remembered for signing the Magna Carta. Nearby is the superb chantry chapel of Prince Arthur, elder brother of Henry VIII, whose premature death aged 15 changed England forever (one of the most pivotal moments in our history, had he survived the Reformation may never have happened). The gorgeous late Perpendicular gothic chapel stands to the south of the High Altar and is remarkable for it's rich sculpted detail.
The church of St Edward the Martyr sits at the highest point of the large village of Castle Donington as it has done for centuries, most of the present structure dating from the 13th to the 15th centuries though its origins are earlier still.
The building is of an impressive size, both chancel and nave are of considerable length with the latter flanked by aisles on either side, giving the interior a sense of spaciousness. The west end is dominated by the tower and its tapering spire, a landmark for miles around.
The church contains some notable medieval tombs and an extensive collection os stained glass windows (mostly Victorian aside from one notable recent addition).
In common with the majority in Leicestershire St Edward's is normally kept locked outside of services. I got lucky as a nice lady had opened early on a Saturday morning to do some cleaning and was happy for me to look around. It is a rewarding church so I'm very grateful to her and glad I timed my visit so well!
www.leicestershirechurches.co.uk/castle-donington-st-edwa...
Gloucester Cathedral is one of England's finest churches, a masterpiece of medieval architecture consisting of a uniquely beautiful fusion of Norman Romanesque and Perpendicular Gothic from the mid 14th century onwards. Until the Reformation this was merely Gloucester's Abbey of St Peter, under Henry VIII it became one of six former monastic churches to be promoted to cathedral status, thus saving the great church from the ravages of the Dissolution.
The most obviously Norman part is the nave, immediately apparent on entering the building with it's round arches and thick columns (the exterior is the result of Gothic remodelling). Much of the remainder of the building is substantially the Norman structure also, but almost entirely modified in the later Middle Ages inside and out, the result of the great revenue brought to the abbey by pilgrims to the tomb of the murdered King Edward II in the choir. It was this transformation of the Norman church that is credited with launching the late gothic Perpendicular style in England.
The gothic choir is a unique and spectacular work, the walls so heavily panelled as to suggest a huge stone cage (disguising the Norman arches behind) crowned by a glorious net-like vault adorned with numerous bosses (those over the Altar with superb figures of Christ and angels) whilst the east wall is entirely glazing in delicate stone tracery, and still preserving most of it's original 14th century stained glass. The soaring central tower, also richly panelled with delicate pinnacles, is another testament to the abbey's increasing wealth at this time.
The latest medieval additions to the church are equally glorious, the Lady Chapel is entered through the enormous east window and is itself a largely glazed structure, though the original glass has been reduced to a few fragments in the east window, the remainder now contains beautiful Arts & Crafts stained glass by Christopher and Veronica Whall.
The early 16th century cloisters to the north of the nave are some of the most beautiful anywhere, being completely covered by exquisite fan vaulting, with a seperate lavatorium (washing room) attached to the north walk as a miniature version of the main passages.
There is much more of interest, from 14th century choir stalls with misericords to the comprehensive collection of tombs and monuments of various dates, including the elaborate tomb of Edward II and that of Robert Duke of Normandy, eldest son of William the Conqueror. The stained glass also represents all ages, from the 14 th century to the striking contemporary windows by Tom Denny.
Further areas of the cathedral can be accessed at certain times, such as the Norman crypt under the choir and the triforium gallery above.
My visit coincided with the major 'Crucible' exhibition of contemporary sculpture (September-October 2010), examples of which I will upload in due course.
Westminster Abbey is perhaps the most significant church in English History, site of the coronation of monarchs since it was founded by Edward the Confessor, and burial place of the majority of them, along with many other historical figures of note. It is first and foremost a superlative work of medieval architecture, from its soaring 13th-14th century nave, transepts and choir (all in a curiously French inspired version of Decorated Gothic) to the masterpiece of English Perpendicular, the incredibly lacy fan-vaulted Henry VII's chapel at the east end.
The Abbey is also a treasure house of ecclesiastical art, most of it monumental sculpture on the numerous tombs and effigies of almost every date ranging from the entire medieval period through to the 20th century; a somewhat cluttered interior, crammed full of interest, there is simply nothing else quite like it, no other church contains so many monuments.
The Abbey's monastic ranges partially survive, most notably the cloisters and superb chapter house; a short summary of the Abbey's riches is simply impossible. The monastery itself was shut down during the Dissolution, after which the Abbey briefly became a cathedral until its diocesan rank was revoked merely a decade later. Today it is designated a 'Royal Peculiar' owing to its unique status.
The Abbey is a textbook in stone of British history, and thus a hugely popular tourist attraction. It currently has more limited opening hours in the post-Covid recovery period and entry is not cheap, but happily after decades of a strict prohibition against photographers the rules have now been relaxed at last and visitors are now welcome to fully enjoy this marvellous building with their cameras!
For further details (and restrictions) see below:-
Memorial tablet to Sir John Bridgeman (d.1710) designed by the architect James Gibbs and installed in the south aisle in 1726.
A familiar landmark in north Birmingham, Aston's parish church of SS Peter & Paul is also the most substantial piece of medieval architecture left anywhere near the city centre, or rather would have been had it not been so completely rebuilt in 1879-90 by J.A.Chatwin (whose work seems synonymous with Birmingham's older churches!), leaving just the 14th century west tower (with it's curiously designed upper stage, adorned with deeply recessed blank arcading) and spire. It is nonetheless a splendid sight in this otherwise not too glamourous area, and Chatwin's work is a solid exercise in neo-Perpendicular, adorned with much fine carved detail and an apse reminiscent of old St Michael's in Coventry.
The interior is most impressive, somewhat dark but richly decorated, with a mixed bag of Victorian glass (Hardman's in the apse, where I was shown the pink giraffe!) and very much of it's time, all under a fine hammerbeam roof, more elaborate over the chancel, as is the stonework generally with dramatic cusped ogee arches providing a setting for some of the many tombs. There are several good medieval monuments with effigies, mostly to the Holte family and the bulk concentrated in the Erdington Chapel on the south side. None are of the highest quality or best condition, but a worthy collection nevertheless. The largest monument is the 1620s Devereux tomb with it's canopy but rather difficult to see in it's somewhat blackened state in a dark corner. There are also many Baroque and later wall tablets adorned with putti etc distributed throughout the aisles.
What would have been the most important piece of stained glass is currently stored in a crate in the north aisle, it is a large single-arched composition by Francis Eginton from 1798 with a female figure ascending to Heaven. It had been originally installed in the Erdington Chapel, but relocated in the Victorian rebuilding and hidden behind the organ for years, until more recently being removed following vandal damage. The church has no funds to restore it with and no space to put it in, but it is clearly an important work that needs to be back on display somewhere, perhaps the City Museum & Art Gallery, since they have an extensive stained glass display?
I'd been intending to visit this church for some time, but had heard it was rather difficult to get inside. I'd phoned the parish office before I left home and a very helpful young lady answered and said it'd be no problem whilst she was around (till 12ish) so I broke my journey to Erdington and made the shortish walk from Aston railway station. After struggling to find which door to knock on she emerged and kindly escorted me through the offices into the church, and after a brief introduction left me to snap away by myself. I'm afraid I got a bit carried away and when nobody arrived at 12 to lock up I pushed my luck and carried on a bit longer, only to find the poor girl was waiting patiently around the corner! I apologised and should add how grateful we should be to such individuals who generously give their time for our enjoyment of the buildings in their care.
The original glazing of Henry VII's lady chapel was lost long ago to iconoclasm (and the few remaining elements in the traceries were sadly lost to wartime bombing), thus the chapel has long been plain-glazed. At the turn of the Millennium it was decided to reintroduce colour to the three principal windows of the apse and various high profile artists were invited to submit designs with Alan Younger being chosen as the winner.
Tragically however Alan Younger died shortly after the central window was completed leaving the project only partially realised. The Abbey then opted for a new approach rather than to attempt to find another artist to interpret Younger's designs.and Hughie O'Donghue's broadly heraldic designs in blue and white were interpreted in glass by the Barley Studio. I find the individual windows highly appealing though am still not entirely convinced the blue and white chequerboard effect works as a cohesive whole alongside the rich warm tones and intense detail of Younger's window, I feel they contrast more than complement.
Westminster Abbey is perhaps the most significant church in English History, site of the coronation of monarchs since it was founded by Edward the Confessor, and burial place of the majority of them, along with many other historical figures of note. It is first and foremost a superlative work of medieval architecture, from its soaring 13th-14th century nave, transepts and choir (all in a curiously French inspired version of Decorated Gothic) to the masterpiece of English Perpendicular, the incredibly lacy fan-vaulted Henry VII's chapel at the east end.
The Abbey is also a treasure house of ecclesiastical art, most of it monumental sculpture on the numerous tombs and effigies of almost every date ranging from the entire medieval period through to the 20th century; a somewhat cluttered interior, crammed full of interest, there is simply nothing else quite like it, no other church contains so many monuments.
The Abbey's monastic ranges partially survive, most notably the cloisters and superb chapter house; a short summary of the Abbey's riches is simply impossible. The monastery itself was shut down during the Dissolution, after which the Abbey briefly became a cathedral until its diocesan rank was revoked merely a decade later. Today it is designated a 'Royal Peculiar' owing to its unique status.
The Abbey is a textbook in stone of British history, and thus a hugely popular tourist attraction. It currently has more limited opening hours in the post-Covid recovery period and entry is not cheap, but happily after decades of a strict prohibition against photographers the rules have now been relaxed at last and visitors are now welcome to fully enjoy this marvellous building with their cameras!
For further details (and restrictions) see below:-
St Lawrence's in Ludlow could easily claim to be the grandest parish church in Shropshire but also one of the very finest and most rewarding medieval churches in the country. It is a very large cruciform building dating mostly to the 14th & 15th centuries crowned by a soaring central tower that is a major landmark of the town. The red sandstone exterior however is otherwise somewhat elusive, being hemmed in by buildings in close proximity and thus difficult to get an overall shot of as a complete building.
The church is entered via an unusual hexagonal porch on the south side which admits access to the spacious nave and aisles. The crossing beyond is tall and narrow and adds a cathedral-like dimension to the interior, with views into the lower lantern-stage of the tower above. The chancel beyond is similarly impressive in scale and adornment with a fine 15th century wooden roof and much more.
St Lawrence's is especially famous for its interior fittings, most of all the superb medieval choir stalls with one of the best collections of misericord carvings anywhere. Less well known but equally important is the extensive collection of medieval stained glass in the eastern half of the church. Most of the glass in the chancel has either been very heavily restored or replaced entirely in replica by early 19th century restorers, but the glass in the north chapel is much more complete and despite some restoration largely retains its original appearance.
There are several notable tombs and monuments here also, including the heart burial of Henry VIII's older brother Prince Arthur (whose untimely death in Ludlow dramatically changed our history forever).
St Lawrence's is normally open to visitors on a daily basis and shouldn't be missed. The tower may also be ascended for some fine views over the town of Ludlow and beyond.
Knole, one of the largest private houses in England, is a splendid example of medieval architecture with Jacobean embellishments.
The original palace was built between 1456 - 1486 for Thomas Bourchier on the site of a medieval house. Bourchier was Lord Chancellor and Archbishop of Canterbury.
On his death the house was bequeathed to the See of Canterbury and it remained the residence of four more archbishops before Thomas Cranmer was persuaded to give it to Henry VIII. The King spent money on the house but never actually lived there.
In 1566 Queen Elizabeth I granted Knole to her cousin Thomas Sackville, 1st Earl of Dorset, whose descendants, later Dukes of Dorset, have lived here ever since.
Between 1603 - 1608 the 1st Earl made extensive alterations and additions, transforming the interior. He added panelling and plasterwork in the Great Hall and other principal rooms and installed the magnificent Great Staircase.
At the same time he began the collection of Jacobean furniture for which Knole is notable today.
The 4th Earl supported the Royal cause during the Civil War and fought at the Battle of Edgehill, while his wife was for a time governess to the Royal children.
In 1642 Parliamentarian troops sacked Knole and in 1645, when the Parliamentary commissioners were installed at the house, much else was stolen.
In the next generation some of the deprivations suffered by Knole were put right when the 5th Earl married a great heiress, Lady Frances Cranfield. She inherited the estates of her father, the Earl of Middlesex, and much of the furniture, tapestries and paintings at Knole were brought from Copt Hall the Cranfield family home in Essex.
The collection of 17th century furniture and textiles at Knole was mostly acquired by the 6th Earl.
As Lord Chamberlain to William III the Earl was entitled to take away furnishings discarded from the Royal palaces. As a result the galleries at Knole are filled with state beds, chairs, stools and tapestries that once adorned Whitehall, Kensington and Hampton Court.
The King's Room contains a beautiful silver looking-glass, table and candlestands. The splendid great bed is embellished with cloth of silver and gold with matching chairs and stools.
The cultivated and romantic 3rd Duke of Dorset treasured Knole's venerable atmosphere and ensured that the house was not remodelled in the classical style during the 18th century.
It is the lack of alteration which makes Knole such a precious survival amongst the great houses of Britain.
Knole was the birthplace of Vita Sackville-West, whose father was Lionel, 3rd Lord Sackville.
Virginia Wolfe's historical fantasy 'Orlando' was inspired by Knole and her friendship with Vita Sackville-West.
In 1946 Vita's uncle, Charles, 4th Lord Sackville, passed Knole into the care of the National Trust much to her distress. However, the contents of the house and the park remain the property of the Sackville family.
Knole's furniture, embroidered textiles and tapestries, ornate plaster ceilings and carved chimneypieces are a reflection of the superb craftsmanship which created the house.
Family paintings include work by Van Dyck, Kneller, Lely, Hoppner and Wootton. There is a whole room devoted to the work of Sir Joshua Reynolds.
The beautiful 1,000 acre park where herds of Sika and fallow deer graze is incised by deep valleys and planted with ancient oaks, chestnuts and beeches.
Not entirely unique in medieval architecture, but a bold and exciting architectural invention; the skeleton vault. This is a vault where the ribs are present but the cells are removed.
I liked the composition of this image as if it were springing from the image frame, and it is a difficult subject to photograph as it is a dark room in the Cathedral.
St John's sits at the entrance to Spon Street, that rare enclave of medieval architecture in Coventry's mostly post-war city centre. Being on the fringe of city's heart it generally gets less attention from visitors, thus one feels that in any other setting it would be far more celebrated, George Gilbert Scott, who restored the church in 1877, considered it 'one of the most beautiful churches in England'. The church luckily escaped major damage in the November 1940 Blitz that destroyed so much else in the city, beyond the loss of much (but not all) of it's Victorian stained glass.
The church was founded in 1342 by Queen Isabella, mother of Edward III, but most of what we see today is 15th century work, though evidently of different phases. The church sits on a relatively small site, but what it lacks in length and width it gains in height, and with it's tapering and unusually narrow clerestorey windows and central tower it gives the impression of a cathedral in miniature. The tower has oddly corbelled-out turrets at it's corners, an over-exaggeration of the original design by Scott; his main intervention on the exterior otherwise was the renewal of much of the stonework, since warm red sandstone is one of the least resistant to weathering.
The interior is surprisingly light for a sandstone church, the result of the large Perpendicular windows and extensive clerestorey that creates a 'glass cage' effect in the higher parts of the church. It is also rather narrow, which accentuates the proportions and sense of height further, a good example of architectural limitations and constraints turned to an advantage. There are some good medieval carvings surviving higher up, but otherwise aside from the fine Perpendicular architecture itself the impression is largely of early 20th century High Church Anglican worship, as most of the furnishings appear to date from this time, though they are nonetheless attractive and sympathetic to the building.
The lack of any relics of the Middle Ages in wood or glass or monuments of later periods is explained by the history of the church, since it actually ceased to be used for worship in the 1590s and for several centuries suffered various indignities of secular use, such as a prison for Scottish rebels captured after the Battle of Preston during the Civil War in 1648 (these rebels, loyal to the King, were shunned in the Parliamentarian held city, thus the phrase being 'Sent to Coventry' was born!). Other uses included as a stables, a market and a winding and dying house for cloth, before being eventually restored to church use in the 19th century. We should at least be glad that being put to other uses at least preserved the structure through it's centuries of hibernation.
The church posesses an interesting mixture of stained glass, from Victorian and Edwardian pieces that survived the bombing, to the more prominent and colourful windows installed in the 1950s. However it is interesting to note how the postwar glass here predates the nearby Cathedral's windows by only a few years, but is still highly figurative and traditional in approach, thus still a far cry from the revolutionary new works that Coventry became famous for less than a decade later.
St John's is generally open on Saturday mornings but otherwise kept locked owing to concerns over security. Sadly it has suffered attacks from stone-throwing idiots on several occasions in recent years (I have repaired minor damage to several of the windows here) but the parishoners remain welcoming and friendly in spite of a difficult environment. It is a lovely church and well worth a visit.
For more detail and images see it's entry on the Warwickshire Churches website below:-
warwickshirechurches.weebly.com/coventry---st-john-the-ba...
The grandest village church in south Nottinghamshire, St Mary's church dominates the centre of the quirkily named village of Bunny, its tapering spire crowning a tall west tower making the building very much the local landmark (along with the curious tower of the nearby hall). It is a building of considerable length, both the aisled nave and the chancel seem are of impressive dimensions. Much of it appears to be of 14th century date, though later interventions are indicated here and there, such as the strangey domestic-looking east window of the chancel that must have been a 17th century alteration. The south porch is remarkable inside for its corbelled stone roof, a most unusual feature that gives it an almost fortified appearance.
The interior seems almost as broad as it is long, the aisled nave has been scraped of its plaster-finish in the Victorian period and is now in marked contrast to the chancel beyond where the walls are still white-rendered and the windows mostly plain glazed, making it a much brighter space. There are a few monuments to members of the Parkyns family but none compete with the largest and most famous of them which is now located in the north aisle (originally in the chancel) and uniquely depicts a over-large figure of Sir Thomas Parkyns in an aggressive wrestling pose balanced by a much smaller figure of his eventual defeat by Old Father Time.
Bunny church is normally kept locked outside of service times though may have limited open hours on certain days, but it is best to check ahead or make arrangements if travelling to see it. For more see its article on the highly commendable diocesan website below:-
The magnificent chantry chapel of Prince Arthur at Worcester, a masterpiece of late medieval architecture and sculpture and the last resting place of Henry VIII's elder brother.
Worcester Cathedral is the commanding presence on the skyline of the city, perched on high ground overlooking the River Severn. It is one of England's most rewarding cathedrals, though denied first rank status owing to the heavy handed Victorian restorations it underwent, an unavoidable consequence of being built of soft red sandstone (a problem shared with Chester and Lichfield) and thus a 19th century feel pervades inside and out in it's mostly renewed external stonework and furnishings.
The cathedral impresses with it's scale, one or our longer churches, crowned by a magnificent central tower (originally surmounted by a lead spire, lost sometime after the Refomation; subtle alterations to the tower's design were made when it was refaced in the Victorian restoration) and with a secondary pair of transepts flanking the choir (as at Salisbury, Lincoln, Rochester & Canterbury). Of the former monastic buildings the cloister and Norman chapter house have survived (along with the refectory, now part of neighbouring King's School), making this a more complex and enjoyable building to explore.
The earliest parts are of the Norman period with the superb 12th century crypt under the choir. The west end of the nave is also Norman work, though very late and unusual in design, with transitional pointed arches. However the bulk of the building we see dates from the 13th and 14th centuries, the east end in Early English gothic style (where most of the windows were restored to stepped lancets by Sir George Gilbert Scott during the Victorian restoration, having been altered over the centuries), whilst the remainder of the nave and tower largely of the Decorated period (the cathedral originally also possessed a detached octagonal bell tower with a lead spire, which stood near the north east corner but was demolished in 1647).
Of the original furnishings little remains beyond the fine set of misericords in the choir stalls. The stained glass too is nearly entirely Victorian (only some meagre, much restored medieval fragments survive in traceries of the south aisle). Much of the Victorian glass is quite impressive, particularly the great east and west windows by Hardman's of Birmingham.
Worcester is however especially rich in tombs and monuments of all periods, with medieval effigies of bishops, knights and ladies, not all in good condition but worth seeking out. There are also several large tombs from the post-Reformation period (especially in the cluttered south aisle) and some fine Baroque work in the north transept.
The most significant of the monuments here are Royal; in the centre of the choir lies the fine 13th century effigy of King John, best remembered for signing the Magna Carta. Nearby is the superb chantry chapel of Prince Arthur, elder brother of Henry VIII, whose premature death aged 15 changed England forever (one of the most pivotal moments in our history, had he survived the Reformation may never have happened). The gorgeous late Perpendicular gothic chapel stands to the south of the High Altar and is remarkable for it's rich sculpted detail.
Bruges, Belgium.
Bruges is the capital and largest city of the province of West Flanders in the Flemish Region of Belgium. The well preserved medieval architecture of the city, along with the system of canals, has been a tourist draw for several centuries.
"The earliest mention of the location's name is as Bruggas, Brvggas or Brvccia in AD 840–875. The name probably derives from the Old Dutch for 'bridge': brugga. Bruges had a strategic location at the crossroads of the northern Hanseatic League trade and the southern trade routes", leading to a long and lasting vibrant economy.
The building shown here sure appears to be newer construction, designed to look like and appear architecturally compliant to that of medieval Bruges.
Unearthed remains of a medieval village, which existed in this area from 13th Century (the area was populated already in the neolitic period, and a Slavic village existed there in 8th Century). At its center stood a stone fort, seventeen houses surrounded it. This village was atypical through many forward fortifications, remains of one are clearly visible above the village on a rock cliff, another one was further to the East, and a guard castle existed some hundred meters to the north. The whole area was destroyed and leveled in the Hungarian invasion of 1468.
What is now officially the parish church of St Giles of a tiny settlement in the Malvern Hills will always be more popularly known by its original status as Little Malvern Priory. What survives is the (formerly) central tower and chancel of the once cruciform priory church that must have been a splendid sight in its heyday, perched partway up the hillside at the southern end of the Malverns, one of the most picturesque settings of any church I've seen.
Even in its truncated state the church is a magnificent sight, in addition to the complete loss of the nave and transepts its tower is shorn of pinnacles and the chancel missing its flanking chapels (ruined elements remain of these) but there is still a grandeur to the building and not all its glory has departed. The tower is especially attractive, its upper storey with panelled decoration in the Perpendicular style and the large east window also testifies to 15th century rebuilding. Much of the exterior however is difficult to access owing to adjoining private land so can only be enjoyed from a neighbouring field. Entry is from the north, the one accessible side.
Inside the tower and chancel form one tall and narrow space under an almost flat plaster ceiling (covering the original wooden ceiling, the bosses still show through), the eye drawn towards the six-light east window which still contains substantial fragments of its original late 15th century stained glass, including some kneeling portraits of members of the Yorkist Royal Family. There are elements of old woodwork too but of the former tombs in the church only fragments remain.
The church is normally kept open for visitors and I was given an especially warm welcome here by the very hospitable parishoners who were preparing the church for Harvest Festival. Thanks to their kindness I was even given access to the organ loft to enable me to get some better shots of the interior and the historic glass. My thanks to all I met that morning.
I had been wanting to visit this church for many years; its remote hillside position is not an easy destination for a cyclist, but I'm very glad I finally made the effort, it was well worth the wait!
www.worcesteranddudleyhistoricchurches.org.uk/index.php?p...
The magnificent chantry chapel of Prince Arthur at Worcester, a masterpiece of late medieval architecture and sculpture and the last resting place of Henry VIII's elder brother.
Worcester Cathedral is the commanding presence on the skyline of the city, perched on high ground overlooking the River Severn. It is one of England's most rewarding cathedrals, though denied first rank status owing to the heavy handed Victorian restorations it underwent, an unavoidable consequence of being built of soft red sandstone (a problem shared with Chester and Lichfield) and thus a 19th century feel pervades inside and out in it's mostly renewed external stonework and furnishings.
The cathedral impresses with it's scale, one or our longer churches, crowned by a magnificent central tower (originally surmounted by a lead spire, lost sometime after the Refomation; subtle alterations to the tower's design were made when it was refaced in the Victorian restoration) and with a secondary pair of transepts flanking the choir (as at Salisbury, Lincoln, Rochester & Canterbury). Of the former monastic buildings the cloister and Norman chapter house have survived (along with the refectory, now part of neighbouring King's School), making this a more complex and enjoyable building to explore.
The earliest parts are of the Norman period with the superb 12th century crypt under the choir. The west end of the nave is also Norman work, though very late and unusual in design, with transitional pointed arches. However the bulk of the building we see dates from the 13th and 14th centuries, the east end in Early English gothic style (where most of the windows were restored to stepped lancets by Sir George Gilbert Scott during the Victorian restoration, having been altered over the centuries), whilst the remainder of the nave and tower largely of the Decorated period (the cathedral originally also possessed a detached octagonal bell tower with a lead spire, which stood near the north east corner but was demolished in 1647).
Of the original furnishings little remains beyond the fine set of misericords in the choir stalls. The stained glass too is nearly entirely Victorian (only some meagre, much restored medieval fragments survive in traceries of the south aisle). Much of the Victorian glass is quite impressive, particularly the great east and west windows by Hardman's of Birmingham.
Worcester is however especially rich in tombs and monuments of all periods, with medieval effigies of bishops, knights and ladies, not all in good condition but worth seeking out. There are also several large tombs from the post-Reformation period (especially in the cluttered south aisle) and some fine Baroque work in the north transept.
The most significant of the monuments here are Royal; in the centre of the choir lies the fine 13th century effigy of King John, best remembered for signing the Magna Carta. Nearby is the superb chantry chapel of Prince Arthur, elder brother of Henry VIII, whose premature death aged 15 changed England forever (one of the most pivotal moments in our history, had he survived the Reformation may never have happened). The gorgeous late Perpendicular gothic chapel stands to the south of the High Altar and is remarkable for it's rich sculpted detail.
Memorial tablet to Sir Thomas Holte (d.1654).
A familiar landmark in north Birmingham, Aston's parish church of SS Peter & Paul is also the most substantial piece of medieval architecture left anywhere near the city centre, or rather would have been had it not been so completely rebuilt in 1879-90 by J.A.Chatwin (whose work seems synonymous with Birmingham's older churches!), leaving just the 14th century west tower (with it's curiously designed upper stage, adorned with deeply recessed blank arcading) and spire. It is nonetheless a splendid sight in this otherwise not too glamourous area, and Chatwin's work is a solid exercise in neo-Perpendicular, adorned with much fine carved detail and an apse reminiscent of old St Michael's in Coventry.
The interior is most impressive, somewhat dark but richly decorated, with a mixed bag of Victorian glass (Hardman's in the apse, where I was shown the pink giraffe!) and very much of it's time, all under a fine hammerbeam roof, more elaborate over the chancel, as is the stonework generally with dramatic cusped ogee arches providing a setting for some of the many tombs. There are several good medieval monuments with effigies, mostly to the Holte family and the bulk concentrated in the Erdington Chapel on the south side. None are of the highest quality or best condition, but a worthy collection nevertheless. The largest monument is the 1620s Devereux tomb with it's canopy but rather difficult to see in it's somewhat blackened state in a dark corner. There are also many Baroque and later wall tablets adorned with putti etc distributed throughout the aisles.
What would have been the most important piece of stained glass is currently stored in a crate in the north aisle, it is a large single-arched composition by Francis Eginton from 1798 with a female figure ascending to Heaven. It had been originally installed in the Erdington Chapel, but relocated in the Victorian rebuilding and hidden behind the organ for years, until more recently being removed following vandal damage. The church has no funds to restore it with and no space to put it in, but it is clearly an important work that needs to be back on display somewhere, perhaps the City Museum & Art Gallery, since they have an extensive stained glass display?
I'd been intending to visit this church for some time, but had heard it was rather difficult to get inside. I'd phoned the parish office before I left home and a very helpful young lady answered and said it'd be no problem whilst she was around (till 12ish) so I broke my journey to Erdington and made the shortish walk from Aston railway station. After struggling to find which door to knock on she emerged and kindly escorted me through the offices into the church, and after a brief introduction left me to snap away by myself. I'm afraid I got a bit carried away and when nobody arrived at 12 to lock up I pushed my luck and carried on a bit longer, only to find the poor girl was waiting patiently around the corner! I apologised and should add how grateful we should be to such individuals who generously give their time for our enjoyment of the buildings in their care.
St John's sits at the entrance to Spon Street, that rare enclave of medieval architecture in Coventry's mostly post-war city centre. Being on the fringe of city's heart it generally gets less attention from visitors, thus one feels that in any other setting it would be far more celebrated, George Gilbert Scott, who restored the church in 1877, considered it 'one of the most beautiful churches in England'. The church luckily escaped major damage in the November 1940 Blitz that destroyed so much else in the city, beyond the loss of much (but not all) of it's Victorian stained glass.
The church was founded in 1342 by Queen Isabella, mother of Edward III, but most of what we see today is 15th century work, though evidently of different phases. The church sits on a relatively small site, but what it lacks in length and width it gains in height, and with it's tapering and unusually narrow clerestorey windows and central tower it gives the impression of a cathedral in miniature. The tower has oddly corbelled-out turrets at it's corners, an over-exaggeration of the original design by Scott; his main intervention on the exterior otherwise was the renewal of much of the stonework, since warm red sandstone is one of the least resistant to weathering.
The interior is surprisingly light for a sandstone church, the result of the large Perpendicular windows and extensive clerestorey that creates a 'glass cage' effect in the higher parts of the church. It is also rather narrow, which accentuates the proportions and sense of height further, a good example of architectural limitations and constraints turned to an advantage. There are some good medieval carvings surviving higher up, but otherwise aside from the fine Perpendicular architecture itself the impression is largely of early 20th century High Church Anglican worship, as most of the furnishings appear to date from this time, though they are nonetheless attractive and sympathetic to the building.
The lack of any relics of the Middle Ages in wood or glass or monuments of later periods is explained by the history of the church, since it actually ceased to be used for worship in the 1590s and for several centuries suffered various indignities of secular use, such as a prison for Scottish rebels captured after the Battle of Preston during the Civil War in 1648 (these rebels, loyal to the King, were shunned in the Parliamentarian held city, thus the phrase being 'Sent to Coventry' was born!). Other uses included as a stables, a market and a winding and dying house for cloth, before being eventually restored to church use in the 19th century. We should at least be glad that being put to other uses at least preserved the structure through it's centuries of hibernation.
The church posesses an interesting mixture of stained glass, from Victorian and Edwardian pieces that survived the bombing, to the more prominent and colourful windows installed in the 1950s. However it is interesting to note how the postwar glass here predates the nearby Cathedral's windows by only a few years, but is still highly figurative and traditional in approach, thus still a far cry from the revolutionary new works that Coventry became famous for less than a decade later.
St John's is open on saturday mornings but otherwise kept locked owing to concerns over security. Sadly it has suffered attacks from stone-throwing idiots on several occasions in recent years (I have repaired minor damage to several of the windows here) but the parishoners remain welcoming and friendly in spite of a difficult environment. It is a lovely church and well worth a visit.
For more detail and images see it's entry on the Warwickshire Churches website below:-
warwickshirechurches.weebly.com/coventry---st-john-the-ba...
Gloucester Cathedral is one of England's finest churches, a masterpiece of medieval architecture consisting of a uniquely beautiful fusion of Norman Romanesque and Perpendicular Gothic from the mid 14th century onwards. Until the Reformation this was merely Gloucester's Abbey of St Peter, under Henry VIII it became one of six former monastic churches to be promoted to cathedral status, thus saving the great church from the ravages of the Dissolution.
The most obviously Norman part is the nave, immediately apparent on entering the building with it's round arches and thick columns (the exterior is the result of Gothic remodelling). Much of the remainder of the building is substantially the Norman structure also, but almost entirely modified in the later Middle Ages inside and out, the result of the great revenue brought to the abbey by pilgrims to the tomb of the murdered King Edward II in the choir. It was this transformation of the Norman church that is credited with launching the late gothic Perpendicular style in England.
The gothic choir is a unique and spectacular work, the walls so heavily panelled as to suggest a huge stone cage (disguising the Norman arches behind) crowned by a glorious net-like vault adorned with numerous bosses (those over the Altar with superb figures of Christ and angels) whilst the east wall is entirely glazing in delicate stone tracery, and still preserving most of it's original 14th century stained glass. The soaring central tower, also richly panelled with delicate pinnacles, is another testament to the abbey's increasing wealth at this time.
The latest medieval additions to the church are equally glorious, the Lady Chapel is entered through the enormous east window and is itself a largely glazed structure, though the original glass has been reduced to a few fragments in the east window, the remainder now contains beautiful Arts & Crafts stained glass by Christopher and Veronica Whall.
The early 16th century cloisters to the north of the nave are some of the most beautiful anywhere, being completely covered by exquisite fan vaulting, with a seperate lavatorium (washing room) attached to the north walk as a miniature version of the main passages.
There is much more of interest, from 14th century choir stalls with misericords to the comprehensive collection of tombs and monuments of various dates, including the elaborate tomb of Edward II and that of Robert Duke of Normandy, eldest son of William the Conqueror. The stained glass also represents all ages, from the 14 th century to the striking contemporary windows by Tom Denny.
Further areas of the cathedral can be accessed at certain times, such as the Norman crypt under the choir and the triforium gallery above.
My visit coincided with the major 'Crucible' exhibition of contemporary sculpture (September-October 2010), examples of which I will upload in due course.
A wonderful old church well worth exploring but less well known on the edge of suburban Rugby, I've known this church for years having grown up in the area, it was one of the first ancient churches I ever experienced as a child and it left a lasting impression.
Despite serving what is now a large suburb of Rugby the church retains a country feel, being cut off from the town by the main line between Birmingham and London, meaning it is completely invisible from Hillmorton itself. Normal approach is thus bizarrely through a tunnel under the railway line that leads to the churchyard!
It's a mainly 13th/14th century building, the west tower is of a rich red sandstone whist the body of the building has been patched up at various dates giving it an attractive unrestored patina. Inside is equally unspoilt, retaining a late Georgian feel with it's furnishings, Royal Arms and whitewashed walls (though oddly just chancel and south aisle have been scraped). Victorian glass is confined to two south aisle windows (including one strange piecemeal affair) and a single light in the chancel; the main east window with it's intersecting tracery is left plain.
The main items of interest here are the monuments, three medieval tombs and an elegant brass of a lady. Of the effigies the best is the early 14th century lady in the south aisle with wimple and canopy over her head. The nearby knight is more damaged whilst the 13th century priest under an arch in the north aisle (almost hidden behind benches) is badly mutilated.
This church is happily more accessible than it used to be and is normally kept open for visitors during the day.
St Mary & St Leodegarius at Ashby St Ledgers is one of my favourite churches, a place I've known since childhood having grown up nearby but had not revisited for some 30 years until now.
This lovely ironstone building sits back in its own leafy enclosure forming a group with the adjacent outbuildings of the manor to the north of the churchyard. The church itself appears to be mainly 14th century (especially the tower and south porch) but the enlarged aisle windows all appear to be Perpendicular work of a century later and do much to enhance the edifice inside and out.
The interior is a churchcrawler's delight with much of interest from ancient woodwork and wall-paintings to the fine series of brasses (mostly to the Catesby family whose ancestral home is next door). Some of the brasses require seeking out being hidden under carpets or trapdoors, so my prior experience from childhood brass-rubbing trips here helped (two further brasses that were removed by an antiquarian in the mid-19th century have now rejoined them having returned to the church from Northamptonshire County Record Office in 2003, but alas they are located in the locked north chapel so can only be glimpsed through the gate).
The chancel beyond the ancient screen is the darkest area of the church (and wears a more early 19th century feel as a result of the glass of that date) but there is still sufficient light to appreciate the fine collection of sculpted 17th & 18th century wall-mounted monuments, mostly covering the north wall (this wall was formed by blocking in the arcade to the north chapel, the arches of which are still visible on the other side. A south chapel also existed originally but has long since vanished).
One of the best aspects of this church is its delightfully musty atmosphere, one can almost smell the layers of history upon entering. And history has certainly played out here with the Gunpowder plotters who reputedly met in the timber-framed gateway adjoining the churchyard and Robert Catesby's neighbouring former home (private but visible over the churchyard wall).
Ashby St Ledgers church is happily normally kept open and welcoming to visitors and is well worth seeing, it is a place of great interest and real charm.
The Palace Courtyard in the Bergenhus Fortress at Bergen, Norway. Straight ahead is the Residence of the Captain of the Guard. Behind it on the left is HÃ¥kon HÃ¥konsson's Gatehouse. On the right is the Commandant's Residence.
Bergenhus is one of the oldest and best preserved fortresses in Norway.
Window by Hardman Studios c1890 in the Erdington Chapel, depicting historical medieval benefactors of Aston church.
A familiar landmark in north Birmingham, Aston's parish church of SS Peter & Paul is also the most substantial piece of medieval architecture left anywhere near the city centre, or rather would have been had it not been so completely rebuilt in 1879-90 by J.A.Chatwin (whose work seems synonymous with Birmingham's older churches!), leaving just the 14th century west tower (with it's curiously designed upper stage, adorned with deeply recessed blank arcading) and spire. It is nonetheless a splendid sight in this otherwise not too glamourous area, and Chatwin's work is a solid exercise in neo-Perpendicular, adorned with much fine carved detail and an apse reminiscent of old St Michael's in Coventry.
The interior is most impressive, somewhat dark but richly decorated, with a mixed bag of Victorian glass (Hardman's in the apse, where I was shown the pink giraffe!) and very much of it's time, all under a fine hammerbeam roof, more elaborate over the chancel, as is the stonework generally with dramatic cusped ogee arches providing a setting for some of the many tombs. There are several good medieval monuments with effigies, mostly to the Holte family and the bulk concentrated in the Erdington Chapel on the south side. None are of the highest quality or best condition, but a worthy collection nevertheless. The largest monument is the 1620s Devereux tomb with it's canopy but rather difficult to see in it's somewhat blackened state in a dark corner. There are also many Baroque and later wall tablets adorned with putti etc distributed throughout the aisles.
What would have been the most important piece of stained glass is currently stored in a crate in the north aisle, it is a large single-arched composition by Francis Eginton from 1798 with a female figure ascending to Heaven. It had been originally installed in the Erdington Chapel, but relocated in the Victorian rebuilding and hidden behind the organ for years, until more recently being removed following vandal damage. The church has no funds to restore it with and no space to put it in, but it is clearly an important work that needs to be back on display somewhere, perhaps the City Museum & Art Gallery, since they have an extensive stained glass display?
I'd been intending to visit this church for some time, but had heard it was rather difficult to get inside. I'd phoned the parish office before I left home and a very helpful young lady answered and said it'd be no problem whilst she was around (till 12ish) so I broke my journey to Erdington and made the shortish walk from Aston railway station. After struggling to find which door to knock on she emerged and kindly escorted me through the offices into the church, and after a brief introduction left me to snap away by myself. I'm afraid I got a bit carried away and when nobody arrived at 12 to lock up I pushed my luck and carried on a bit longer, only to find the poor girl was waiting patiently around the corner! I apologised and should add how grateful we should be to such individuals who generously give their time for our enjoyment of the buildings in their care.
A wonderful old church well worth exploring but less well known on the edge of suburban Rugby, I've known this church for years having grown up in the area, it was one of the first ancient churches I ever experienced as a child and it left a lasting impression.
Despite serving what is now a large suburb of Rugby the church retains a country feel, being cut off from the town by the main line between Birmingham and London, meaning it is completely invisible from Hillmorton itself. Normal approach is thus bizarrely through a tunnel under the railway line that leads to the churchyard!
It's a mainly 13th/14th century building, the west tower is of a rich red sandstone whist the body of the building has been patched up at various dates giving it an attractive unrestored patina. Inside is equally unspoilt, retaining a late Georgian feel with it's furnishings, Royal Arms and whitewashed walls (though oddly just chancel and south aisle have been scraped). Victorian glass is confined to two south aisle windows (including one strange piecemeal affair) and a single light in the chancel; the main east window with it's intersecting tracery is left plain.
The main items of interest here are the monuments, three medieval tombs and an elegant brass of a lady. Of the effigies the best is the early 14th century lady in the south aisle with wimple and canopy over her head. The nearby knight is more damaged whilst the 13th century priest under an arch in the north aisle (almost hidden behind benches) is badly mutilated.
This church is happily more accessible than it used to be and is normally kept open for visitors during the day.
Formerly the abbey church of a Benedictine monastery dedicated to St Werburgh, since 1541 it has been the seat of the Bishop of Chester and now dedicated to Christ and the Blessed Virgin Mary.
The building dates from between 1093 and the early 1500s, although the site may have been used for Christian worship since Roman times.
All the major styles of English medieval architecture, from Norman to Perpendicular, are present in the building.
Chester Cathedral is a Grade I listed building.
St Werburgh's Chapel: Nativity window by Michael O'Connor, 1857
Much of the city's medieval architecture remains intact and is remarkably well preserved and restored. Its centre is the largest carfree area in Belgium. Interesting highlights are the Saint Bavo Cathedral with the Ghent Altarpiece, the belfry, the Gravensteen castle, and the splendid architecture along the old Graslei harbour. Ghent established a nice blend between comfort of living and history – it is not a city-museum. The city of Ghent houses also three béguinages and numerous churches, among which the Saint-James' church, the Saint-Nicolas' church and the Saint Michael's church are the most beautiful examples.
In the nineteenth century Ghent's most famous architect, Louis Roelandt, built the university hall Aula, the opera house and the main courthouse. Highlights of modern architecture are the university buildings (the Boekentoren or Book Tower) by Henry Van de Velde. There are also a few theatres from diverse periods.
The beguinages, as well as the belfry and adjacent cloth hall, were recognized by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites in 1998 and 1999
Detail from the magnificent chantry chapel of Prince Arthur at Worcester, a masterpiece of late medieval architecture and sculpture and the last resting place of Henry VIII's elder brother.
Worcester Cathedral is the commanding presence on the skyline of the city, perched on high ground overlooking the River Severn. It is one of England's most rewarding cathedrals, though denied first rank status owing to the heavy handed Victorian restorations it underwent, an unavoidable consequence of being built of soft red sandstone (a problem shared with Chester and Lichfield) and thus a 19th century feel pervades inside and out in it's mostly renewed external stonework and furnishings.
The cathedral impresses with it's scale, one or our longer churches, crowned by a magnificent central tower (originally surmounted by a lead spire, lost sometime after the Refomation; subtle alterations to the tower's design were made when it was refaced in the Victorian restoration) and with a secondary pair of transepts flanking the choir (as at Salisbury, Lincoln, Rochester & Canterbury). Of the former monastic buildings the cloister and Norman chapter house have survived (along with the refectory, now part of neighbouring King's School), making this a more complex and enjoyable building to explore.
The earliest parts are of the Norman period with the superb 12th century crypt under the choir. The west end of the nave is also Norman work, though very late and unusual in design, with transitional pointed arches. However the bulk of the building we see dates from the 13th and 14th centuries, the east end in Early English gothic style (where most of the windows were restored to stepped lancets by Sir George Gilbert Scott during the Victorian restoration, having been altered over the centuries), whilst the remainder of the nave and tower largely of the Decorated period (the cathedral originally also possessed a detached octagonal bell tower with a lead spire, which stood near the north east corner but was demolished in 1647).
Of the original furnishings little remains beyond the fine set of misericords in the choir stalls. The stained glass too is nearly entirely Victorian (only some meagre, much restored medieval fragments survive in traceries of the south aisle). Much of the Victorian glass is quite impressive, particularly the great east and west windows by Hardman's of Birmingham.
Worcester is however especially rich in tombs and monuments of all periods, with medieval effigies of bishops, knights and ladies, not all in good condition but worth seeking out. There are also several large tombs from the post-Reformation period (especially in the cluttered south aisle) and some fine Baroque work in the north transept.
The most significant of the monuments here are Royal; in the centre of the choir lies the fine 13th century effigy of King John, best remembered for signing the Magna Carta. Nearby is the superb chantry chapel of Prince Arthur, elder brother of Henry VIII, whose premature death aged 15 changed England forever (one of the most pivotal moments in our history, had he survived the Reformation may never have happened). The gorgeous late Perpendicular gothic chapel stands to the south of the High Altar and is remarkable for it's rich sculpted detail.
The magnificent chantry chapel of Prince Arthur at Worcester, a masterpiece of late medieval architecture and sculpture and the last resting place of Henry VIII's elder brother.
Worcester Cathedral is the commanding presence on the skyline of the city, perched on high ground overlooking the River Severn. It is one of England's most rewarding cathedrals, though denied first rank status owing to the heavy handed Victorian restorations it underwent, an unavoidable consequence of being built of soft red sandstone (a problem shared with Chester and Lichfield) and thus a 19th century feel pervades inside and out in it's mostly renewed external stonework and furnishings.
The cathedral impresses with it's scale, one or our longer churches, crowned by a magnificent central tower (originally surmounted by a lead spire, lost sometime after the Refomation; subtle alterations to the tower's design were made when it was refaced in the Victorian restoration) and with a secondary pair of transepts flanking the choir (as at Salisbury, Lincoln, Rochester & Canterbury). Of the former monastic buildings the cloister and Norman chapter house have survived (along with the refectory, now part of neighbouring King's School), making this a more complex and enjoyable building to explore.
The earliest parts are of the Norman period with the superb 12th century crypt under the choir. The west end of the nave is also Norman work, though very late and unusual in design, with transitional pointed arches. However the bulk of the building we see dates from the 13th and 14th centuries, the east end in Early English gothic style (where most of the windows were restored to stepped lancets by Sir George Gilbert Scott during the Victorian restoration, having been altered over the centuries), whilst the remainder of the nave and tower largely of the Decorated period (the cathedral originally also possessed a detached octagonal bell tower with a lead spire, which stood near the north east corner but was demolished in 1647).
Of the original furnishings little remains beyond the fine set of misericords in the choir stalls. The stained glass too is nearly entirely Victorian (only some meagre, much restored medieval fragments survive in traceries of the south aisle). Much of the Victorian glass is quite impressive, particularly the great east and west windows by Hardman's of Birmingham.
Worcester is however especially rich in tombs and monuments of all periods, with medieval effigies of bishops, knights and ladies, not all in good condition but worth seeking out. There are also several large tombs from the post-Reformation period (especially in the cluttered south aisle) and some fine Baroque work in the north transept.
The most significant of the monuments here are Royal; in the centre of the choir lies the fine 13th century effigy of King John, best remembered for signing the Magna Carta. Nearby is the superb chantry chapel of Prince Arthur, elder brother of Henry VIII, whose premature death aged 15 changed England forever (one of the most pivotal moments in our history, had he survived the Reformation may never have happened). The gorgeous late Perpendicular gothic chapel stands to the south of the High Altar and is remarkable for it's rich sculpted detail.
St John's sits at the entrance to Spon Street, that rare enclave of medieval architecture in Coventry's mostly post-war city centre. Being on the fringe of city's heart it generally gets less attention from visitors, thus one feels that in any other setting it would be far more celebrated, George Gilbert Scott, who restored the church in 1877, considered it 'one of the most beautiful churches in England'. The church luckily escaped major damage in the November 1940 Blitz that destroyed so much else in the city, beyond the loss of much (but not all) of it's Victorian stained glass.
The church was founded in 1342 by Queen Isabella, mother of Edward III, but most of what we see today is 15th century work, though evidently of different phases. The church sits on a relatively small site, but what it lacks in length and width it gains in height, and with it's tapering and unusually narrow clerestorey windows and central tower it gives the impression of a cathedral in miniature. The tower has oddly corbelled-out turrets at it's corners, an over-exaggeration of the original design by Scott; his main intervention on the exterior otherwise was the renewal of much of the stonework, since warm red sandstone is one of the least resistant to weathering.
The interior is surprisingly light for a sandstone church, the result of the large Perpendicular windows and extensive clerestorey that creates a 'glass cage' effect in the higher parts of the church. It is also rather narrow, which accentuates the proportions and sense of height further, a good example of architectural limitations and constraints turned to an advantage. There are some good medieval carvings surviving higher up, but otherwise aside from the fine Perpendicular architecture itself the impression is largely of early 20th century High Church Anglican worship, as most of the furnishings appear to date from this time, though they are nonetheless attractive and sympathetic to the building.
The lack of any relics of the Middle Ages in wood or glass or monuments of later periods is explained by the history of the church, since it actually ceased to be used for worship in the 1590s and for several centuries suffered various indignities of secular use, such as a prison for Scottish rebels captured after the Battle of Preston during the Civil War in 1648 (these rebels, loyal to the King, were shunned in the Parliamentarian held city, thus the phrase being 'Sent to Coventry' was born!). Other uses included as a stables, a market and a winding and dying house for cloth, before being eventually restored to church use in the 19th century. We should at least be glad that being put to other uses at least preserved the structure through it's centuries of hibernation.
The church posesses an interesting mixture of stained glass, from Victorian and Edwardian pieces that survived the bombing, to the more prominent and colourful windows installed in the 1950s. However it is interesting to note how the postwar glass here predates the nearby Cathedral's windows by only a few years, but is still highly figurative and traditional in approach, thus still a far cry from the revolutionary new works that Coventry became famous for less than a decade later.
St John's is open on saturday mornings but otherwise kept locked owing to concerns over security. Sadly it has suffered attacks from stone-throwing idiots on several occasions in recent years (I have repaired minor damage to several of the windows here) but the parishoners remain welcoming and friendly in spite of a difficult environment. It is a lovely church and well worth a visit.
For more detail and images see it's entry on the Warwickshire Churches website below:-
warwickshirechurches.weebly.com/coventry---st-john-the-ba...
Haut-KÅ“nigsbourg Castle is a characteristic medieval mountain fortress, originally built in the 12th century. It was destroyed in 1462, rebuilt in 1479, and destroyed again in 1633. After being abandoned for over 200 years, it was restored in 1900 by Wilhelm II, the last emperor of Germany, in accordance with medieval architectural style, including collections of weapons and furniture from that era.
North chapel window by George Cooper Abbs of Exeter, 1960.
St John's sits at the entrance to Spon Street, that rare enclave of medieval architecture in Coventry's mostly post-war city centre. Being on the fringe of city's heart it generally gets less attention from visitors, thus one feels that in any other setting it would be far more celebrated, George Gilbert Scott, who restored the church in 1877, considered it 'one of the most beautiful churches in England'. The church luckily escaped major damage in the November 1940 Blitz that destroyed so much else in the city, beyond the loss of much (but not all) of it's Victorian stained glass.
The church was founded in 1342 by Queen Isabella, mother of Edward III, but most of what we see today is 15th century work, though evidently of different phases. The church sits on a relatively small site, but what it lacks in length and width it gains in height, and with it's tapering and unusually narrow clerestorey windows and central tower it gives the impression of a cathedral in miniature. The tower has oddly corbelled-out turrets at it's corners, an over-exaggeration of the original design by Scott; his main intervention on the exterior otherwise was the renewal of much of the stonework, since warm red sandstone is one of the least resistant to weathering.
The interior is surprisingly light for a sandstone church, the result of the large Perpendicular windows and extensive clerestorey that creates a 'glass cage' effect in the higher parts of the church. It is also rather narrow, which accentuates the proportions and sense of height further, a good example of architectural limitations and constraints turned to an advantage. There are some good medieval carvings surviving higher up, but otherwise aside from the fine Perpendicular architecture itself the impression is largely of early 20th century High Church Anglican worship, as most of the furnishings appear to date from this time, though they are nonetheless attractive and sympathetic to the building.
The lack of any relics of the Middle Ages in wood or glass or monuments of later periods is explained by the history of the church, since it actually ceased to be used for worship in the 1590s and for several centuries suffered various indignities of secular use, such as a prison for Scottish rebels captured after the Battle of Preston during the Civil War in 1648 (these rebels, loyal to the King, were shunned in the Parliamentarian held city, thus the phrase being 'Sent to Coventry' was born!). Other uses included as a stables, a market and a winding and dying house for cloth, before being eventually restored to church use in the 19th century. We should at least be glad that being put to other uses at least preserved the structure through it's centuries of hibernation.
The church posesses an interesting mixture of stained glass, from Victorian and Edwardian pieces that survived the bombing, to the more prominent and colourful windows installed in the 1950s. However it is interesting to note how the postwar glass here predates the nearby Cathedral's windows by only a few years, but is still highly figurative and traditional in approach, thus still a far cry from the revolutionary new works that Coventry became famous for less than a decade later.
St John's is open on saturday mornings but otherwise kept locked owing to concerns over security. Sadly it has suffered attacks from stone-throwing idiots on several occasions in recent years (I have repaired minor damage to several of the windows here) but the parishoners remain welcoming and friendly in spite of a difficult environment. It is a lovely church and well worth a visit.
For more detail and images see it's entry on the Warwickshire Churches website below:-
warwickshirechurches.weebly.com/coventry---st-john-the-ba...
Detail from the magnificent chantry chapel of Prince Arthur at Worcester, a masterpiece of late medieval architecture and sculpture and the last resting place of Henry VIII's elder brother.
Worcester Cathedral is the commanding presence on the skyline of the city, perched on high ground overlooking the River Severn. It is one of England's most rewarding cathedrals, though denied first rank status owing to the heavy handed Victorian restorations it underwent, an unavoidable consequence of being built of soft red sandstone (a problem shared with Chester and Lichfield) and thus a 19th century feel pervades inside and out in it's mostly renewed external stonework and furnishings.
The cathedral impresses with it's scale, one or our longer churches, crowned by a magnificent central tower (originally surmounted by a lead spire, lost sometime after the Refomation; subtle alterations to the tower's design were made when it was refaced in the Victorian restoration) and with a secondary pair of transepts flanking the choir (as at Salisbury, Lincoln, Rochester & Canterbury). Of the former monastic buildings the cloister and Norman chapter house have survived (along with the refectory, now part of neighbouring King's School), making this a more complex and enjoyable building to explore.
The earliest parts are of the Norman period with the superb 12th century crypt under the choir. The west end of the nave is also Norman work, though very late and unusual in design, with transitional pointed arches. However the bulk of the building we see dates from the 13th and 14th centuries, the east end in Early English gothic style (where most of the windows were restored to stepped lancets by Sir George Gilbert Scott during the Victorian restoration, having been altered over the centuries), whilst the remainder of the nave and tower largely of the Decorated period (the cathedral originally also possessed a detached octagonal bell tower with a lead spire, which stood near the north east corner but was demolished in 1647).
Of the original furnishings little remains beyond the fine set of misericords in the choir stalls. The stained glass too is nearly entirely Victorian (only some meagre, much restored medieval fragments survive in traceries of the south aisle). Much of the Victorian glass is quite impressive, particularly the great east and west windows by Hardman's of Birmingham.
Worcester is however especially rich in tombs and monuments of all periods, with medieval effigies of bishops, knights and ladies, not all in good condition but worth seeking out. There are also several large tombs from the post-Reformation period (especially in the cluttered south aisle) and some fine Baroque work in the north transept.
The most significant of the monuments here are Royal; in the centre of the choir lies the fine 13th century effigy of King John, best remembered for signing the Magna Carta. Nearby is the superb chantry chapel of Prince Arthur, elder brother of Henry VIII, whose premature death aged 15 changed England forever (one of the most pivotal moments in our history, had he survived the Reformation may never have happened). The gorgeous late Perpendicular gothic chapel stands to the south of the High Altar and is remarkable for it's rich sculpted detail.
Detail from the magnificent chantry chapel of Prince Arthur at Worcester, a masterpiece of late medieval architecture and sculpture and the last resting place of Henry VIII's elder brother.
Worcester Cathedral is the commanding presence on the skyline of the city, perched on high ground overlooking the River Severn. It is one of England's most rewarding cathedrals, though denied first rank status owing to the heavy handed Victorian restorations it underwent, an unavoidable consequence of being built of soft red sandstone (a problem shared with Chester and Lichfield) and thus a 19th century feel pervades inside and out in it's mostly renewed external stonework and furnishings.
The cathedral impresses with it's scale, one or our longer churches, crowned by a magnificent central tower (originally surmounted by a lead spire, lost sometime after the Refomation; subtle alterations to the tower's design were made when it was refaced in the Victorian restoration) and with a secondary pair of transepts flanking the choir (as at Salisbury, Lincoln, Rochester & Canterbury). Of the former monastic buildings the cloister and Norman chapter house have survived (along with the refectory, now part of neighbouring King's School), making this a more complex and enjoyable building to explore.
The earliest parts are of the Norman period with the superb 12th century crypt under the choir. The west end of the nave is also Norman work, though very late and unusual in design, with transitional pointed arches. However the bulk of the building we see dates from the 13th and 14th centuries, the east end in Early English gothic style (where most of the windows were restored to stepped lancets by Sir George Gilbert Scott during the Victorian restoration, having been altered over the centuries), whilst the remainder of the nave and tower largely of the Decorated period (the cathedral originally also possessed a detached octagonal bell tower with a lead spire, which stood near the north east corner but was demolished in 1647).
Of the original furnishings little remains beyond the fine set of misericords in the choir stalls. The stained glass too is nearly entirely Victorian (only some meagre, much restored medieval fragments survive in traceries of the south aisle). Much of the Victorian glass is quite impressive, particularly the great east and west windows by Hardman's of Birmingham.
Worcester is however especially rich in tombs and monuments of all periods, with medieval effigies of bishops, knights and ladies, not all in good condition but worth seeking out. There are also several large tombs from the post-Reformation period (especially in the cluttered south aisle) and some fine Baroque work in the north transept.
The most significant of the monuments here are Royal; in the centre of the choir lies the fine 13th century effigy of King John, best remembered for signing the Magna Carta. Nearby is the superb chantry chapel of Prince Arthur, elder brother of Henry VIII, whose premature death aged 15 changed England forever (one of the most pivotal moments in our history, had he survived the Reformation may never have happened). The gorgeous late Perpendicular gothic chapel stands to the south of the High Altar and is remarkable for it's rich sculpted detail.
Halesworth is an excellent launchpad for exploring some of Suffolk's best churches by bike from the local station with some of the most celebrated being situated a few miles to the east. It is something I intend to repeat in the near future, following the rich rewards of this trip.
St Mary's church in Halesworth is a pleasantly welcoming place, I found both north and south porches left wide open to encourage visitors to step within. What struck me most was the width of the building, with double aisles either side of the nave, a highly unusual arrangement making five in all and an almost square interior, making for some interesting lateral views punctuated by arcades and columns.
There has been significant Victorian restoration here and most of the furnishings are of this period, though the medieval font remains at the west end and is a good example of a classic 15th century East Anglian font (still a novelty to me, being less familiar with the region) carved with angels and evangelist symbols above and lions and wodehouses below. The oldest features however are the fragments of Saxon sculpture set in the chancel.
St Mary's can't compete with some of the medieval gems nearby but is worth a visit nonetheless and clearly a much used and much loved building.
Charming medieval architecture in the small town of Much Wenlock in Shropshire (UK)
Well spotted and good photography by Dave and posted here with kind permission.
The superb net-vaulting over the choir is studded with gilded roof bosses, mostly of a foliate design except for those over the sanctuary which depict various musician angels surrounding a central figure of Christ.
Gloucester Cathedral is one of England's finest churches, a masterpiece of medieval architecture consisting of a uniquely beautiful fusion of Norman Romanesque and Perpendicular Gothic from the mid 14th century onwards. Until the Reformation this was merely Gloucester's Abbey of St Peter, under Henry VIII it became one of six former monastic churches to be promoted to cathedral status, thus saving the great church from the ravages of the Dissolution.
The most obviously Norman part is the nave, immediately apparent on entering the building with it's round arches and thick columns (the exterior is the result of Gothic remodelling). Much of the remainder of the building is substantially the Norman structure also, but almost entirely modified in the later Middle Ages inside and out, the result of the great revenue brought to the abbey by pilgrims to the tomb of the murdered King Edward II in the choir. It was this transformation of the Norman church that is credited with launching the late gothic Perpendicular style in England.
The gothic choir is a unique and spectacular work, the walls so heavily panelled as to suggest a huge stone cage (disguising the Norman arches behind) crowned by a glorious net-like vault adorned with numerous bosses (those over the Altar with superb figures of Christ and angels) whilst the east wall is entirely glazing in delicate stone tracery, and still preserving most of it's original 14th century stained glass. The soaring central tower, also richly panelled with delicate pinnacles, is another testament to the abbey's increasing wealth at this time.
The latest medieval additions to the church are equally glorious, the Lady Chapel is entered through the enormous east window and is itself a largely glazed structure, though the original glass has been reduced to a few fragments in the east window, the remainder now contains beautiful Arts & Crafts stained glass by Christopher and Veronica Whall.
The early 16th century cloisters to the north of the nave are some of the most beautiful anywhere, being completely covered by exquisite fan vaulting, with a seperate lavatorium (washing room) attached to the north walk as a miniature version of the main passages.
There is much more of interest, from 14th century choir stalls with misericords to the comprehensive collection of tombs and monuments of various dates, including the elaborate tomb of Edward II and that of Robert Duke of Normandy, eldest son of William the Conqueror. The stained glass also represents all ages, from the 14th century to the striking contemporary windows by Tom Denny.
Further areas of the cathedral can be accessed at certain times, such as the Norman crypt under the choir and the triforium gallery above.
The church of St Mary de Lode in Gloucester is situated close to the St Mary Gate of the Cathedral precinct and the Bishop Hooper Memorial. It remained something of an enigma to me on many visits as I'd previously never found it open until checking ahead and timing this visit more carefully.
The church is an ancient one, its central tower having a Norman base and the chancel beyond adapted to its present form in the 13th century with a vaulted ceiling inside. The entire nave however was rebuilt in 1826 in a pre-ecclesiological style with external rendering and thus at first glance from a more westerly direction at least the church doens't look terribly promising to lovers of antiquity.
Inside the newer nave is a great open space divided by a few slender cast-iron columns, all very plain and stark white in contrast to the gloomy but intriguingly mysterious space beyond the chancel arch and tower archways. This is the more ancient and interesting part of the building and the chancel with its vaulted ceiling is most attractive, if indeed it does feel rather remote from the nave (as if one has entered a separate building altogether). There is an ancient effigy of a priest on the north side lying in a recess.
When I last visited this church it was usually open for a few hours on saturdays, but otherwise normally kept locked (it took several visits to Gloucester before I finally timed it right and got inside).
For more about the church see below:-