View allAll Photos Tagged homerepairs

Middle-aged couple with household tools next to ladder.

The We’re Here! gang is capturing things that freak us out today.

 

Not sure that this qualifies for the "this freaks me out" group, but Fred going up a really tall ladder freaks me out. Don't even get me started on OSHA standards of ladder safety!!

A detail view of a massive corner tower on a victorian house in Brush Park. It is rare to have a chimney as part of the tower.

We are doing a lot of renovating lately.....sometimes I get bored :)

This nicely restored house has been turned into a restaurant. That might explain the non-historical fire escape on the back of the home.

Kac. Construction,

Tel. (401)837-6730 www.kacconstruction.com sales@kacconstruction.com

see us at facebook www.facebook.com/kacconstruction

Roof replacement done at warwick RI,

 

Roofer contractor, Povidence Hmong Church roofing installation, roof replacement ri, roof repair, leak, hail & high winds roof damage repair.

 

Roofing contractor servicing ma, ri, ct, nh, ny & nj.

Cranston ri, warwick ri, west warwick ri, coventry ri, hope ri, foster ri, harrisville ri, burriville ri, chepachet ri, east greenwich ri, west greenwich ri, kingston ri, north kingston ri, wakefield ri, jamestown ri, narragansett ri, newport ri, middletwn ri, bristol ri, exeter ri, warren ri, barrington ri.

 

A shot of the repair work I did to replace the wax ring on the understand of the toilet in our downstairs bathroom, which was starting to leak.

All about the details. Even while standing there and starring at the kitchen, I didn't notice a ton of stuff. While editing so many things jump out at me. The water pipe on the back wall is find hilarous. Along with the Donald's foot prints everywhere. I can't even say it enough, Life really is ALL about the details, and Disney has got the best.

 

Mickey's Country House

Toontown Fair

Magic Kingdom

Walt Disney World

Thick gloves work well for having to clean up around the drain hole. Needed to scrape off wax, replace the flange bolts and check for water damage

Several of the guys from the canine department volunteered to help Kenny when he was searching for breaks in the line that ran the fans at Feline Fields, and the break in the pipe that was making the washing machine overflow.

 

Please help by making a donation of food or money to Rikki's Refuge or coming out to volunteer.

 

Cash, Check, Credit or Paypal - The choice is yours. Please, just make the choice to help. Stop by the refuge if making a cash donation. Write a check and mail it to Rikki’s Refuge, PO Box 1357, Orange VA 22960. Call me with your credit card information 540-854-0870 x5. Go to www.paypal.com and make a donation thru mail@rikkisrefuge.org

 

Sign up to receive Hairballs, the e-mail newsletter with all the stories of what’s coming up in the crazy world of Animal Antics, brought to you by the critters of Rikki’s Refuge, send your request to mail@RikkisRefuge.org

 

Rikki’s Refuge, www.RikkisRefuge.org, 540-854-0870

 

Q&A Was Tankless Water Heater Worth It

@dininginwithdanielle

#ChrisDoesWhat #DiningInWithDanielle

www.chrisdoeswhat.com/category/diy/tankless_water_heater/

#homediyproject #tanklesswaterheaters #handyman #wifey #homerepairhelp #homerepairguy #wifematerial #coupleprojects #couplelife #homerepairs #wife #plumber #wifelife #sexywife #homeinterior #handymanhusband #funnygirl #coupleproject #homediydecor #handymandecor #handymanhubby #homediyprojects #tanklesswaterheater #homerepair #homedecor #wifeandhusband #plumbers #homediy youtu.be/eN1Z-Or3n4A

Day Two of the shower replacement process - April 19, 2011. Contractors have removed the old shower, poured fresh concrete in the base and redone the plumbing, and are now installing the new unit.

When I got home this evening I got a call from my Uncle telling me that he was having some computer issues. They needed to be fixed in situ (he still uses a 56k dial up and refuses steadfastly to go broadband) so I offered to nip over and sort him out.

 

He lives in Birkenhead, and any trip through the tunnel is a good excuse to break out the motorbike as there's no better feeling that zipping through the tunnel for free.

 

Now that Carol has passed her bike test I've got my little CG125 back (though they did MOT her for me for which I'm mighty grateful!) and as she she needed some fuel I decided to use that one.

 

Immense fun - I really enjoyed the ride. Sadly the Birkenhead tunnel was closed on the way back, so I diverted through Birkenhead docks which reminded me how much I love riding through that area. They remind me so much of Liverpool docks in the eighties. I really need to get back over there with a decent camera.

 

Oh yeah, this is a mobile shot. :( Should have the compact fixed soon though. :)

A table from a flea market covered with old tools

Day Two of the shower replacement process - April 19, 2011. Contractors have removed the old shower, poured fresh concrete in the base and redone the plumbing, and are now installing the new unit.

the next Cat Work Parties are scheduled for July 21 and August 4. Please be there to help out.

 

Please help by making a donation of food or money to Rikki's Refuge or coming out to volunteer.

 

Cash, Check, Credit or Paypal - The choice is yours. Please, just make the choice to help. Stop by the refuge if making a cash donation. Write a check and mail it to Rikki’s Refuge, PO Box 1357, Orange VA 22960. Call me with your credit card information 540-854-0870 x5. Go to www.paypal.com and make a donation thru mail@rikkisrefuge.org

 

Sign up to receive Hairballs, the e-mail newsletter with all the stories of what’s coming up in the crazy world of Animal Antics, brought to you by the critters of Rikki’s Refuge, send your request to mail@RikkisRefuge.org

 

Rikki’s Refuge, www.RikkisRefuge.org, 540-854-0870

 

Cleaned this, top to bottom, and it still looked kinda grungy. Just olllld paint job, not dirty. So I decided to paint it.

 

(Closet is v. weird shape b/c upstairs unit has escape stairs that come down over it. I suspect when it was a single-family dwelling, the stairs were still there, but opened by the front door or something.)

GAG Remodeling is professional full remodeling company, located in Lawrenceville, GA. We provide high quality interior kitchen and bathroom remodeling, cabinets, flooring and granite coutertop services. Call us!

This mostly restored victorian is for sale.

... think, just think .... Some of our volunteers have a little more knowledge than others. Whether you can tell nails and screws apart or not, we can still use your help. Opposable thumbs are a big selling point!

 

Please help by making a donation of food or money to Rikki's Refuge or coming out to volunteer.

 

Cash, Check, Credit or Paypal - The choice is yours. Please, just make the choice to help. Stop by the refuge if making a cash donation. Write a check and mail it to Rikki’s Refuge, PO Box 1357, Orange VA 22960. Call me with your credit card information 540-854-0870 x5. Go to www.paypal.com and make a donation thru mail@rikkisrefuge.org

 

Sign up to receive Hairballs, the e-mail newsletter with all the stories of what’s coming up in the crazy world of Animal Antics, brought to you by the critters of Rikki’s Refuge, send your request to mail@RikkisRefuge.org

 

Rikki’s Refuge, www.RikkisRefuge.org, 540-854-0870

 

I didn't take any process pictures, I was too busy running around trying to get everything I needed for this job and get it all in and done. But I got it done and here's the new kitchen sink.

 

The process began on Saturday when I shut the water in the house and went up to the third floor to start removing the old sink. Because of how the last guy soldered everything in...My only choice really was to cut the whole mess out and start over.

The removal of the old didn't take me very long...Cut the supply lines where they came out of the wall...Disconnect the crumbling drain lines and pry the old sink out of the hole (note to self...Don't hit the sink with a hammer and chip the enamel because you'll find out as soon as you do that the 70's avocado has become strangely retro-popular and you probably could got a fortune if you sold the sink to another restorer.

 

So once the old sink was out it was time to make new connection pieces and put them together with nice new shutoff valves (the 33 year old shutoff valves under the sink were completely frozen in place. More often than not when you turn an old valve it's going to develop an instant leak, so as in this case, it's best to just replace everything and begin anew.

 

The 2 most important parts of soldering copper (or brass) pipe together are making sure the parts are totally clean and that they have been covered with flux where the solder needs to go.

There are many tools on the market for cleaning the parts, brushes, mesh, sandpaper are just a few. It's as easy as rubbing the end of a piece of copper pipe with sandpaper but if you don't do it your solder will be less likely to hold and you'll end up with leaks in your plumbing.

The Flux is applied to both parts before fitting them together to be soldered. The simple answer is that the flux makes the solder flow into the joint. Try heating up some pipe without fluxing it and tell me if the solder sits on top or sucks into the joint like it's supposed to.

 

Along with the solder connections there are no less than 8 screw-tight connections that needed to be made under the sink. To ensure those don't leak there are 2 choices out there, one is Teflon Pipe Thread Tape and the other is called Pipe Dope. Although I've used it before, Dan's training was to throw away the Teflon Tape that comes with a lot of plumbing stuff and to use Pipe Dope on all of the screw in connections.

 

Make all of the connections on the sink before putting it in place. Including putting in the strainer basket. For that one, put a bead of Plumbers Putty around the underside of the strainer where it meets the sink on the inside and then use the rubber gasket that it comes with on the underside of the sink where the cup and the nut attach. Tighten the nut down until the Plumbers Putty squeezes out around the edge of the strainer until the strainer is tight against the bottom of the sink.

 

Next, put a bead of plumbers putty around the lip of the sink where it sits on the countertop and set the sink in place. Using the clips that came with the sink, tighten the sink down to the countertop from below. As you tighten the screws on the clips the Plumbers Putty should squeeze out along the edge of the sink where it meets the countertop. When it's totally tightened down you can use a scraper to go along the edge of the sink and remove the excess Putty. You can also remove the squeeze-out from underneath the sink if you so desire. I did because it was almost a full can of Plumbers Putty that I recovered to use again on the next project.

 

After the sink is set in place you can make all of the screw in connections for the supply and drain lines and you're ready to test it out.

When you first turn the water back on after shutting it and draining the system, remove the aerator part of the faucet (the tip with the screen) before you turn the water back on for the first time. I have a whole house water filter on my water main...But I still remove the end of the faucet because when you first turn the water back on after draining the system there tends to be all manner of rust and dirt that come rushing out as the system re-fills with water. You remove the end of the faucet so all that junk just goes down the drain and doesn't plug up those little holes and screen in the end of the faucet assembly. Once the water runs clear you can shut the faucet and re-attach the aerator.

 

The final step is to fill the sink with water and let it sit there for a while. After about an hour you should be able to check underneath and make sure there are no leaks.

Then you remove the strainer basket and let the water drain out making sure your drain lines don't leak.

 

And that's it...You have a new sink.

(well...I do :) )

This house has had a sign saying something about being converted to a music school or the like for a couple of years but nothing has changed.

 

Update: Restored as of 2024 as a condominium with six units.

For every success there seems to be a setback. The Yale apartment building closed a few years ago. I noticed that a wall had collapsed on my August 2008 visit to the neighborhood.

 

The Yale prior to abandonment in 2005.

  

Current status: Demolished.

This photo of a modest restored victorian home illustrates the amazing location of Brush Park. On the left in the background is Comerica Park where the Tigers play baseball and in the background on the right is the 2nd largest theater in the country, the fabulous and fully restored 5048 seat Fox Theater. In any other major city, people would be falling all over themselves to buy into this area at top dollar.

 

* * *

 

Update: I wrote the above words in 2008. It took a while, but by 2024, people ARE paying substantial sums to buy into this neighborhood now.

Example 1: 48 Edmund Place (entire house): asking price of $999,999 as of August 2024 (source: www.Trulia.com).

Example 2: 295 Alfred, unit A condo has an asking price of $1,150,000.

There are also several ~1,500 square foot condos for sale for about $600,000.

This victorian with its very massive corner tower is showing signs of restoration work on the front porch.

Nature is renewing its assault on this forlorn duplex at 83/85 Edmund. Two years ago the vegetation was cut back but with amazing speed is has covered up half the house.

 

Update: What was left of this house was demolished sometime around 2014.

A stone thrown up by the gardener's weed wacking cracks the patio door creating this shattered safety glass effect. I covered it with panels of frosted clear contact paper to delay our having to replace it. Cost to replace will be about $600.

 

Upon my return from Thailand I also supervised the replacement of our cooktop and hood thus reducing the kitchen remodel vision to size. From what would have been months of upheaval and no kitchen to a morning installation. And a big improvement it was. it is still an electric cooktop, but with a smooth glass like top covering the individual burners.

It was even worse in the back, where I had no space and no leverage to get underneath the frame.

Please help by making a donation of food or money to Rikki's Refuge or coming out to volunteer.

 

Cash, Check, Credit or Paypal - The choice is yours. Please, just make the choice to help. Stop by the refuge if making a cash donation. Write a check and mail it to Rikki’s Refuge, PO Box 1357, Orange VA 22960. Call me with your credit card information 540-854-0870 x5. Go to www.paypal.com and make a donation thru mail@rikkisrefuge.org

 

Sign up to receive Hairballs, the e-mail newsletter with all the stories of what’s coming up in the crazy world of Animal Antics, brought to you by the critters of Rikki’s Refuge, send your request to mail@RikkisRefuge.org

 

Rikki’s Refuge, www.RikkisRefuge.org, 540-854-0870

 

A recently restored duplex in Brush Park.

I didn't take any process pictures, I was too busy running around trying to get everything I needed for this job and get it all in and done. But I got it done and here's the new kitchen sink.

 

The process began on Saturday when I shut the water in the house and went up to the third floor to start removing the old sink. Because of how the last guy soldered everything in...My only choice really was to cut the whole mess out and start over.

The removal of the old didn't take me very long...Cut the supply lines where they came out of the wall...Disconnect the crumbling drain lines and pry the old sink out of the hole (note to self...Don't hit the sink with a hammer and chip the enamel because you'll find out as soon as you do that the 70's avocado has become strangely retro-popular and you probably could got a fortune if you sold the sink to another restorer.

 

So once the old sink was out it was time to make new connection pieces and put them together with nice new shutoff valves (the 33 year old shutoff valves under the sink were completely frozen in place. More often than not when you turn an old valve it's going to develop an instant leak, so as in this case, it's best to just replace everything and begin anew.

 

The 2 most important parts of soldering copper (or brass) pipe together are making sure the parts are totally clean and that they have been covered with flux where the solder needs to go.

There are many tools on the market for cleaning the parts, brushes, mesh, sandpaper are just a few. It's as easy as rubbing the end of a piece of copper pipe with sandpaper but if you don't do it your solder will be less likely to hold and you'll end up with leaks in your plumbing.

The Flux is applied to both parts before fitting them together to be soldered. The simple answer is that the flux makes the solder flow into the joint. Try heating up some pipe without fluxing it and tell me if the solder sits on top or sucks into the joint like it's supposed to.

 

Along with the solder connections there are no less than 8 screw-tight connections that needed to be made under the sink. To ensure those don't leak there are 2 choices out there, one is Teflon Pipe Thread Tape and the other is called Pipe Dope. Although I've used it before, Dan's training was to throw away the Teflon Tape that comes with a lot of plumbing stuff and to use Pipe Dope on all of the screw in connections.

 

Make all of the connections on the sink before putting it in place. Including putting in the strainer basket. For that one, put a bead of Plumbers Putty around the underside of the strainer where it meets the sink on the inside and then use the rubber gasket that it comes with on the underside of the sink where the cup and the nut attach. Tighten the nut down until the Plumbers Putty squeezes out around the edge of the strainer until the strainer is tight against the bottom of the sink.

 

Next, put a bead of plumbers putty around the lip of the sink where it sits on the countertop and set the sink in place. Using the clips that came with the sink, tighten the sink down to the countertop from below. As you tighten the screws on the clips the Plumbers Putty should squeeze out along the edge of the sink where it meets the countertop. When it's totally tightened down you can use a scraper to go along the edge of the sink and remove the excess Putty. You can also remove the squeeze-out from underneath the sink if you so desire. I did because it was almost a full can of Plumbers Putty that I recovered to use again on the next project.

 

After the sink is set in place you can make all of the screw in connections for the supply and drain lines and you're ready to test it out.

When you first turn the water back on after shutting it and draining the system, remove the aerator part of the faucet (the tip with the screen) before you turn the water back on for the first time. I have a whole house water filter on my water main...But I still remove the end of the faucet because when you first turn the water back on after draining the system there tends to be all manner of rust and dirt that come rushing out as the system re-fills with water. You remove the end of the faucet so all that junk just goes down the drain and doesn't plug up those little holes and screen in the end of the faucet assembly. Once the water runs clear you can shut the faucet and re-attach the aerator.

 

The final step is to fill the sink with water and let it sit there for a while. After about an hour you should be able to check underneath and make sure there are no leaks.

Then you remove the strainer basket and let the water drain out making sure your drain lines don't leak.

 

And that's it...You have a new sink.

(well...I do :) )

Please help by making a donation of food or money to Rikki's Refuge or coming out to volunteer.

 

Cash, Check, Credit or Paypal - The choice is yours. Please, just make the choice to help. Stop by the refuge if making a cash donation. Write a check and mail it to Rikki’s Refuge, PO Box 1357, Orange VA 22960. Call me with your credit card information 540-854-0870 x5. Go to www.paypal.com and make a donation thru mail@rikkisrefuge.org

 

Sign up to receive Hairballs, the e-mail newsletter with all the stories of what’s coming up in the crazy world of Animal Antics, brought to you by the critters of Rikki’s Refuge, send your request to mail@RikkisRefuge.org

 

Rikki’s Refuge, www.RikkisRefuge.org, 540-854-0870

 

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