View allAll Photos Tagged headphoneamplifier
My headphone rig:
-Denon AH-D2000
-PPA v2 Headphone Amplifier with STEPS Power Supply
**This photo was post processed using Nik software filters**
**Please view this image in "Large Size" at the top -ty**
Serious headphone listening requires a headphone amp because just like speakers (but on a much smaller scale), headphones require power to move air and create sound. A good headphone amp isn't about making your music louder (though it does that too), rather, it is about providing enough juice to drive your headphones well.
My headphone rig:
-Denon AH-D2000
-PPA v2 Headphone Amplifier with STEPS Power Supply
**This photo was post processed using Nik software filters**
**Please view this image in "Large Size" at the top -ty**
Serious headphone listening requires a headphone amp because just like speakers (but on a much smaller scale), headphones require power to move air and create sound. A good headphone amp isn't about making your music louder (though it does that too), rather, it is about providing enough juice to drive your headphones well.
Serious headphone listening requires a headphone amp because just like speakers (but on a much smaller scale), headphones require power to move air and create sound. A good headphone amp isn't about making your music louder (though it does that too), rather, it is about providing enough juice to drive your headphones well.
JDS Labs CMOYbb (bass boost). I plan on making my own version of this sometime in the future, but until then, I got one that works well!
A simple black box, with the input and output at the front, a power input in the back and a power switch on the side. The gain control is at the top, as well as a high-output green LED to indicate power toward the back.
I learned quite a bit in the course of this project:
1) Believe me, etching a circuit board is much easier than using a perforated prototype board. After laying out my circuit in Photoshop, then sitting down to begin placing the components, I realized the device would have the potential to be a huge rats-nest of wiring, despite its simplicity. Etching a board may seem intimidating at first, but it is really a breeze. Don't let the caustic chemicals scare you.
2) Careful planning is of the essence. I made a couple of really big mistakes with this board: I designed it in reverse of the final layout in the tin, that was the first problem. The second problem was not measuring the caps against the actual size of the tin. I thought I had compensated for it by mounting the large power caps horizontally, but it was the bypass caps that were too tall for the enclosure. With that, I had to resort to purchasing a plastic enclosure and installing the project in there.
3) Next time remember Jumper wires go on the COMPONENT SIDE of the board. NOT the trace side. It was a nightmare to keep the jumpers from shorting the traces! Not only that, but it required extra clearance so they don't get pressed down into the board and short something out. Not good!
4) Make sure the wire you use to connect the external components is stranded to make it more flexible. This will make the process of fitting the external connections to the case easier. It may also make sense to install headers to connect the external components rather than soldering them directly to the board, especially if the installation is going to be tight and require some fiddling to get things into the enclosure.
All said, this was an excellent first project. The amplifier gives plenty of boost (with lots of room to spare!) and has very tolerable noise levels. With an AC adapter connected, there a small amount of mains hum audible at high volume levels, but it is just about at the level of hiss produced by the sound card's circuitry, so is negligible. The only way I could get around that would be to either use a battery pack, or install an isolation transformer between the source and the amp.