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I found where the flexure is happening -- at least, I think I found it. I'll have to wait for clear weather next week to test.

 

Here's what leads me to consider this as the point of flexing. The T ring adapter depends on the springs in the K mount to hold it tightly. Normally this is not a big issue. However, with the weight of the camera and cooler on the springs, plus the shift over time, leads to a slow compression and relaxion of these springs. Thus, there's movement at the CCD.

 

It's easier to test/demo on the scope, because the leverage required to show the gap appearing and disappearing is hard to do by hand. I don't have a vise so that limits my ability to fiddle with it.

 

I tried filling the gap with some teflon tape - and have done this before. It does help a bit. However, the tape shreds and it moves over time. So I removed all the existing tape, put a new layer on it, paying attention to getting some into where the mount pin seats.

 

I had some thin aluminum sheet around and found that if I pulled on the adapter, I could shove it into the gap. This stresses the spings more and may even compress them fully. Once both sides have been shimmed, I was not able to see any perceptable shift in the mount when pulling on it.

 

What's also visible in this shot is the wrap-around pad that helps cool the bottom of the camera. This is where the strongest amp glow appears in long exposures. I didn't want to remove this device from the camera. It does make a difference.

 

I also reconfigured the way I put the heat sink on the camera. It should be a bit easier to assemble and remove when I want to use the camera for IR daytime/studio shots.

The Concealed Cord Fixing Technique is perfect for displaying menu insert prints without any PVC pockets inside your Menu Covers.

 

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Taken on the road to Puerto Lopez, South of Manta, Ecuador

You need to remove 16 or so screws

Another house in Richmond about to be demolished to make way for a new apartment complex.

Could you please Hold Me?

Lightroom

PSCS4

fix for Pimp my Pixels group

11/12/2012 at RAS Hall in Washington, DC

this is my "fix" to the original photo (below) posted to fix-my-pic by irismjoll

checked out a fix gear jam today. it was some what lame

When you take the strimmer body apart it won't finally separate until you remove the plastic cowl which covers the nylon strimming thread. To remove the cowl there's one 'japanned' crosshead screw that needs to be removed from the base. Clean off all the grass cuttings to find it - it may be in poor condition but I could just about unscrew this one. Then the cowl turns through 90degrees and comes off.

Fixing Pauline Collection from Conforama

nu nog een kleine schroevendraaier

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