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I asked some amateur radio associates if they had any dead vacuum tubes or other turn-of-the-century electronics stuff that I could incorporate into steampunk projects. Frank gave me a box of tubes.
I wrote a controller program with Microsoft QuickBasic 4.5 (Copyright 1985), if only because it lets you write binary values to arbitrary addresses as such:
; Set all data lines low/high on 0x3f8h
out 888, 0
out 888, 255
So of course back in 1998, I had a few nerdy LED animation sequences I found I could make with this thing. The two of us (electronics engineering students) got into making "persistence of vision"-related stuff, and ultimately ended up creating that "160 pixel" thing in 2002, which was far more involved and was interactive via telnet and the web.
uC prototyping blocks, aka "Dev Blocks." These are small single component boards that are ready to plug into a breadboard.
Here the connectors are interlocked.
From left to right:
Piezo element
Bi-color LED (red/green) x2
SPST, N-O momentary switch w/ pulldown resistor
Light dependent resistor (LDR)
DS18B20 I2C digital temperature sensor
LM35 temperature sensor (10mV/C)
It looked like it had been sitting in a siberian hay field. In fact there are specks of dust inside the optics, but they don't look optically significant for such a wide angle lens.
My first test with the pan-tilt servo unit.
Next up is finding a way to power and control a small fan attached to the end of it and finding a way to control a minimum of 5, but preferably X, more from one Arduino, I've found some links that look promising.
The electronics room at Protospace. Medium format Kodak Ektar 100, shot with a 1950s Mamiyaflex Twin Lens Reflex Camera
Electronics for the ATC setup in the Jade 1 room. In the background is a Studer A820 reel-to-reel tape recorder.
Tools to the right, parts to the left. My workbench has two modes; overly organized, and chaotic + crowded. When I dive into a project, there tends to be five or six working 'threads' competing for resources and attention. Each subtask takes on a life of its own, and the clash of these efforts looks like this. Trust me though; it's a symphony, and my mind is in a focused fugue-state when I'm buried in this. Amusingly, the various steps and components each have a distinct synesthesia-esque voice in my head. Sadly, I get occasionally interrupted by real-life (tm) and then it all comes crashing to a halt and sometime later I have to painfully rebuild that original mental state in order to have *any* hope of remembering where all these tiny parts came from. Its like coding or math. This is why I photograph, sketch and document project steps so obsessively.
Printed circuit board that should be equivalent to the breadboard that displayed The Eight Colors. It'll be much smaller and neater, about two and a half inches square and with a minimum of actual wires - it'll be mostly low-profile surface mount stuff like on this board.
It's a bit goofier than most boards I make, because I think the recipient will appreciate that.
Everything is mirror-image because you have to do that to get the boards right. What you see here gets laser-printed onto the Special Blue Stuff, then applied face-down to the bare copper circuit board and ironed on. When you peel away the Special Blue Stuff, you're left with a mirror image of what was printed, which was a mirror image of what you wanted, so you end up with what you wanted.
I have a terrible grasp of visual/spatial stuff, so I always have to walk myself through that concept.
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Components all laid out with solder paste. The big square chip there is the expensive accelerometer. It's kind of freaking me out because there's no real way to apply solder paste by hand for the tiny pins — you basically need a stencil or something. So, I took the advice of those more experienced and did a trick where I applied a tiny-tiny amount of solder to each pin — basically a pin-prick of solder+flux. That was a bit messy the first time. The second time I was a bit better. And I got to try a third time because on this board (SFE — Sparky) I completely misplaced the chip — I had it turned the wrong way, which was a really dumb mistake. So, I had to remove it with hot air, and then clean up the mess, then reapply pin-pricks of solder, then heat it on again but with hot air.