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Okay...I am smart, really I am. But I had to actually do some research to figure out that Instagram is only for cell phones. (pulling head out of sand) so now I know, and I will be taking my cell phone everywhere with me now. :)
This is a official LEGO brochure. Distributed at LEGO Experience Tour at Chicago August 15th and 16th 2009
Taken with a Kodak EasyShare Z980
Taken by www.martiger.com
See more great Kodak Z980 photos taken by other awesome great Photographers at Kodak Z980 pool www.flickr.com/groups/z980
and end up with a 4 digit nixie clock using NL-5440A tubes. Used the same circuit and code as the other 4 digit clock from bruno.netstrefa.com.pl/radio/projekt/nixieclock/index.htm
Dirty Electronics Mute Synth custom modified by A.S.M.O. for Daniel Miller (The Normal / Mute Records).
Touch panels hardwired to pots and switches, 3 LFOs, one for each oscillator and feedback.
Low / band pass resonant filter with external voltage control input, self oscillates at full resonance.
Panel is covered in (warm) leatherette, nice!
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General Radio Type 687 Electron Oscillograph.
This was the first successful commercial oscilloscope ever. GR made one model before this, but they did not sell more than a handful. They made one more model after this, but did not market it effectively.
The only other oscilloscopes made before GR's three models were custom research instruments not sold as commercial products.
GR's oscilloscopes predated Dumont, Tektronix, HP, etc.
This one is rather beat up, but entirely restorable, even the broken shafts. It contains very little electronics (no vertical amps for example) so after replacing a few very old capacitors, it will probably be fully functional.
uC prototyping blocks, aka "Dev Blocks." These are small single component boards that are ready to plug into a breadboard.
Here the connectors are interlocked.
From left to right:
Piezo element
Bi-color LED (red/green) x2
SPST, N-O momentary switch w/ pulldown resistor
Light dependent resistor (LDR)
DS18B20 I2C digital temperature sensor
LM35 temperature sensor (10mV/C)
Finally got the nerve, after my soldering class, to finish putting together the kit I got sooo long ago. It was easier than I thought.
Here you see the almost-final step of Lesson 3 in Ladyada's Arduino tutorial.
My first test with the pan-tilt servo unit.
Next up is finding a way to power and control a small fan attached to the end of it and finding a way to control a minimum of 5, but preferably X, more from one Arduino, I've found some links that look promising.
I have no idea if they work yet, but I am pleasantly surprised to have gotten two.
Ordered from batchpcb.com. Easy, cheap, and fast!
Portable Jump starter, Provides 900 peak Amps, features air compressor, LED Work Light, and USB power outlet
Components all laid out with solder paste. The big square chip there is the expensive accelerometer. It's kind of freaking me out because there's no real way to apply solder paste by hand for the tiny pins — you basically need a stencil or something. So, I took the advice of those more experienced and did a trick where I applied a tiny-tiny amount of solder to each pin — basically a pin-prick of solder+flux. That was a bit messy the first time. The second time I was a bit better. And I got to try a third time because on this board (SFE — Sparky) I completely misplaced the chip — I had it turned the wrong way, which was a really dumb mistake. So, I had to remove it with hot air, and then clean up the mess, then reapply pin-pricks of solder, then heat it on again but with hot air.
All the mess I swept together on my workbench. Pieces of hot melt glue, wire, perfboard, stripped isolation, solder dust from the desoldering pump, and even some usable components, can you spot them?
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