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For work, I spent today at an electric motor repair shop where they service huge (and I mean really huge) motors. So for today's post, I shot a tiny motor--one that's only 30mm in diameter, haha.
Strobist:
Bare YN560 II @1/32nd power shot into a folded foam core board to the right of the subject triggered by Phottix Strato II's.
Reggie Ballesteros Photography:
For the delectation of Raspberry Pi users - This image may be freely used for non commercial purposes :-) see the creative commons licence.
A 34year old Audiophile Amplifier Needing Parts Replacement : Nikon D7000, Mamiya 645 120mm f/4 Macro APO
+ yes, my 34yr old amp is needing upgrades :). Almost all electrolytic capacitors are leaking and the trimmer resistors are becoming unreliable. Power switching capacitors are also showing signs of cracking. I also want to change the potentiometer to dual type. Even with all of these issues, the amp still sounds great. With all the upgrades, now the sound is more refined and I thought it already was, before the parts were failing. :)
+ the old capacitors were Nichicon, Nippon Chemi-con and a very few, Rubycon. There are so many to choose from what is available today. I'm currently inclined to use the "audio grade" caps on the audio path but considering the design on this old amp, there are no coupling caps :), mostly decoupling or zener/cap combo whatever. So far, I have tested using the Panasonic FC/FM and Nichicon FG on the audio path and the Nichicon being the best sounding, while the Panasonic are kinda harsh or honky. I will be testing the Elna Silmic II soon to see what it can do, reading from forums who thinks they are better than the Nichicons.
+ for the power supply caps, I will be getting the heavy duty United Chemi-con U32D and U36D capacitors. :D Not specifically for audio but these beasts are rock steady in what they do and if employed for transient audio purposes, it's common sense to use these caps rather than boutique caps that are twice the cost...
+ all cameras are tethered via Phase One 8
+ all electronic parts are purchased via RS components
For the delectation of Raspberry Pi users - This image may be freely used for non commercial purposes :-) see the creative commons licence.
This is from our article on how diodes and LEDs work. On the hi-res (not posted here but available for commercial use), you can clearly see the components inside the LED.
Our images are published under a Creative Commons Licence (see opposite) and are free for noncommercial use. We also license our images for commercial use. Please contact us directly via our website for more details.
This little motor has lasted for 7 years used daily about an hour and a half a day that's nearly 4000 hours of use probably more - then this week it gave up :-(
It's brushes worn out and broken.
Taken for the Flickr ✿ Learn & Have Fun Contests ✿ group... www.flickr.com/groups/learn_fun_contests/
If you have a Point & Shoot Camera why not come and join in, have some fun as well as learning a few things along the way!:o)
This is from our article on how diodes and LEDs work. On the hi-res (not posted here but available for commercial use), you can clearly see the components inside the LED.
Our images are published under a Creative Commons Licence (see opposite) and are free for noncommercial use. We also license our images for commercial use. Please contact us directly via our website for more details.
(excessparts.net/) - This is the one cube that can give life and artificial intelligence to your machine. If you do not, then you still have requirement number four: a good electronic components supplier, and at which point I suggest that you start with the small things first, like repairing your old television sets and radio speakers, mending your broken cellphones, fixing your computer sets and the like.
A 34year old Audiophile Amplifier Needing Parts Replacement : Nikon D3X, Mamiya 645 120mm f/4 Macro APO
+ yes, my 34yr old amp is needing upgrades :). Almost all electrolytic capacitors are leaking and the trimmer resistors are becoming unreliable. Power switching capacitors are also showing signs of cracking. I also want to change the potentiometer to dual type. Even with all of these issues, the amp still sounds great. With all the upgrades, now the sound is more refined and I thought it already was, before the parts were failing. :)
+ the old capacitors were Nichicon, Nippon Chemi-con and a very few, Rubycon. There are so many to choose from what is available today. I'm currently inclined to use the "audio grade" caps on the audio path but considering the design on this old amp, there are no coupling caps :), mostly decoupling or zener/cap combo whatever. So far, I have tested using the Panasonic FC/FM and Nichicon FG on the audio path and the Nichicon being the best sounding, while the Panasonic are kinda harsh or honky. I will be testing the Elna Silmic II soon to see what it can do, reading from forums who thinks they are better than the Nichicons.
+ for the power supply caps, I will be getting the heavy duty United Chemi-con U32D and U36D capacitors. :D Not specifically for audio but these beasts are rock steady in what they do and if employed for transient audio purposes, it's common sense to use these caps rather than boutique caps that are twice the cost...
+ all cameras are tethered via Phase One 8
+ all electronic parts are purchased via RS components
Illustrating the difference between a flat single jaw Crimping Tool (lower) and a Ratchet Anvil type Crimping Tool (upper) - the upper joint is much more secure and well made. Macro
Buy your Electronics Components From www.ibselectronics.com
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This is from our article on how diodes and LEDs work. On the hi-res (not posted here but available for commercial use), you can clearly see the components inside the LED.
Our images are published under a Creative Commons Licence (see opposite) and are free for noncommercial use. We also license our images for commercial use. Please contact us directly via our website for more details.
A 34year old Audiophile Amplifier Needing Parts Replacement : Nikon D3X, Mamiya 645 120mm f/4 Macro APO
+ yes, my 34yr old amp is needing upgrades :). Almost all electrolytic capacitors are leaking and the trimmer resistors are becoming unreliable. Power switching capacitors are also showing signs of cracking. I also want to change the potentiometer to dual type. Even with all of these issues, the amp still sounds great. With all the upgrades, now the sound is more refined and I thought it already was, before the parts were failing. :)
+ the old capacitors were Nichicon, Nippon Chemi-con and a very few, Rubycon. There are so many to choose from what is available today. I'm currently inclined to use the "audio grade" caps on the audio path but considering the design on this old amp, there are no coupling caps :), mostly decoupling or zener/cap combo whatever. So far, I have tested using the Panasonic FC/FM and Nichicon FG on the audio path and the Nichicon being the best sounding, while the Panasonic are kinda harsh or honky. I will be testing the Elna Silmic II soon to see what it can do, reading from forums who thinks they are better than the Nichicons.
+ for the power supply caps, I will be getting the heavy duty United Chemi-con U32D and U36D capacitors. :D Not specifically for audio but these beasts are rock steady in what they do and if employed for transient audio purposes, it's common sense to use these caps rather than boutique caps that are twice the cost...
+ all cameras are tethered via Phase One 8
+ all electronic parts are purchased via RS components
A 34year old Audiophile Amplifier Needing Parts Replacement : Nikon D3X, Mamiya 645 120mm f/4 Macro APO
+ yes, my 34yr old amp is needing upgrades :). Almost all electrolytic capacitors are leaking and the trimmer resistors are becoming unreliable. Power switching capacitors are also showing signs of cracking. I also want to change the potentiometer to dual type. Even with all of these issues, the amp still sounds great. With all the upgrades, now the sound is more refined and I thought it already was, before the parts were failing. :)
+ the old capacitors were Nichicon, Nippon Chemi-con and a very few, Rubycon. There are so many to choose from what is available today. I'm currently inclined to use the "audio grade" caps on the audio path but considering the design on this old amp, there are no coupling caps :), mostly decoupling or zener/cap combo whatever. So far, I have tested using the Panasonic FC/FM and Nichicon FG on the audio path and the Nichicon being the best sounding, while the Panasonic are kinda harsh or honky. I will be testing the Elna Silmic II soon to see what it can do, reading from forums who thinks they are better than the Nichicons.
+ for the power supply caps, I will be getting the heavy duty United Chemi-con U32D and U36D capacitors. :D Not specifically for audio but these beasts are rock steady in what they do and if employed for transient audio purposes, it's common sense to use these caps rather than boutique caps that are twice the cost...
+ all cameras are tethered via Phase One 8
+ all electronic parts are purchased via RS components
Electrolytic capacitor, 4.7 microfarads, with pencil for scale. From our article on how capacitors work.
Our other photo shows what this capacitor looks like inside.
Our images are published under a Creative Commons Licence (see opposite) and are free for noncommercial use. We also license our images for commercial use. Please contact us directly via our website for more details.