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Elizabeth Fort is situated on the south side of the city and is said to be one of the finest examples of a 17th century star-shaped fort. The fort itself has gone through a number of phases & rebuilds. Originally built in 1601 during the reign of Elizabeth I, it was replaced in 1624 by a stronger fort which had the same basic outline as that which survives today.
It is reputed that improvements were also made by Cromwell 1649 when he took control of the city. It was used again in 1690 by Williamite forces to shell the city and a cannonball fired from the Fort at the old tower of St. Fin barre’s was found during the 19th century rebuilding of the Cathedral.
In 1719, Elizabeth Fort became a British military barracks and housed approximately seven hundred men. In 1806, a ‘New Barrack’s’ was built on the north side of the city (now called Collin’s Barracks), and Elizabeth fort was converted to a Female Convict Prison. It subsequently became home to various bodies such as a station for the Cork City Artillery Militia.
During the Irish War of Independence (1920-21), it was occupied by the Royal Irish Constabulary and duly handed over to the Provisional Irish government at the end of the war. It is now a Garda Station (Irish police force) and to this day remains one of Cork’s most historic gems. Never been excavated, Elizabeth Fort has a wealth of stories waiting to be discovered and to be told.
The fort itself is partially open to the public and it is well worth the a visit for the views over the city.
Harbour Control Tower (Marine Operations Centre) and Round House, Footdee (Fittee) - Northlink Mini-cruise on MV Hjaltland from Aberdeen to Montrose and back to raise money for RNLI
Lowland rice weeds / CYPERACEAE (sedge family)
Weed name: Fimbristylis miliacea (L.) Vahl
books.google.com.ph/books/irri?id=tqRtCQ9WMLUC&pg=PA1...
Part of the image collection of the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI)
Here is a shot of the box with the plate mounted. As you can see I mounted the burner knob and lights to the stainless steel box plate. The box and plate were only $2.50 each at Kent.
After a secretive agency in New York is invaded by an otherworldly threat, you become the new Director struggling to regain Control.
Ballast Control Siemens PLC Panel. Monitor Systems Engineering.
www.monitor-systems-engineering.com/ballast_control_tankg...
Ballast Control and Tank Gauging Systems
Monitor System's Ballast Control and Tank Gauging System enables marine vessel operators to use reliable informative data to critically and safely manage the ballast and trim of a vessel according to operational needs, deck loading and sea conditions.
The operating control and data management system is driven by a Siemens S7400H Series Redundant PLC and ET200M distributed I/O controlling valves, pumps and monitoring tanks holding ballast; diesel oil; potable water; drill water; salt water; contaminated drain, bilge and other fluids. Ballast control functions are presented graphically to the operator providing an easy interface between operator and equipment. Tank levels are shown both graphically and numerically, whilst audio-visual alarms are displayed in an alarm banner shown on selected screens and a separate alarm page.
This high availability system is powered by an uninterruptible supply (UPS) fed by both mains and emergency power. It also has sufficient battery capacity to run the system for 30 minutes without any power input.
The system can be supplied in its entirety or installed to utilise client's existing valves, actuators and tank sensing installations.
Where: 3rd Street Promenade in Santa Monica, California, USA.
When: End of December 2010.
What: A dad patiently waiting for his chritmasy sons to finish their lunch.
Comando de cruise control del Peugeot 208 GTi. Lugar: Aeropuerto Internacional de Carrasco, Canelones.
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Back in the day even the price of blankets was under control. The forties. Life is too short to Google the price Control Board and it's machinations - but perhaps these were the bog standard blankets and posh folk could flaunt their non Price Controlled blankets. I fancy my mum would have had an eye for value.
Great Pacman logo
I received an invitation to photograph a controlled barn burn this morning with the men and women of the Clayton Fire Company (Station 45) and Townsend Fire Company (Station 26). What a great group of firefighters! Thanks everyone for making me feel so welcome.
Photos posted to link to this car's thread on the Cadillac boards
www.cadillacforums.com/forums/classic-cadillac-forum/8854...
Last weekend, I planned to replace (or at least try) the selector shaft seal with the trans by using this tool
It is supposed to work by removing the selector arm (1 nut) and slipping the thing with the threads cut into it over the shaft. Then, you tap this tool into the old seal, screw in once it's through, and begin threading the bolt-it is supposed to bottom on the shaft and pull the old seal out. With the old seal out, you tap in a new seal with the plain tube on the right.
The shaft is somewhat accessible with the drivers wheel on the car but it seemed like an unnecessary complication so I went to remove the wheel. My garage is a 1-car that is fine for working on top, but quickly felt uncomfortable as I went to lift it. Additionally, I had put down rubber gym mats over the concrete which made chocking the other wheels impossible-so I will have to wait on this whole thing until weather is warmer and I can work outside. :banghead: I was really hoping to be able to get rid of the drip pan, but no dice. I'll let everyone know what happens and link the tool if it does in fact work on the 325-4L, no place explicitly mentioned a puller that works on this trans so I bought one that claimed compatibility to the 200-4R.
So, I decided to do what I could on the car from above. The no charge light had been sporadically flickering since I recored the radiator. I had driven the car a few months with it and it never left me with a dead battery, but time nonetheless it was time to fix it. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of the process, but was I ever surprised how easy it was to rebuild a 27si! I am almost insulted that they sell rebuilt versions of these, with 3 socket sizes and a paperclip you can replace literally everything minus the bearing. When I bought this car, it had a newly rebuilt alternator that worked fine but made a scraping noise when rotating. I picked up this original 100 amp unit from a junker and swapped it on in 2015.
I originally planned to only give it a new diode set, but when I cracked it open everything else looked pretty tired. So I went to my junk pile, grabbed the rebuilt one, and swapped everything else into it. I didn't do the bearing as I don't have a press, but it seemed healthy to me. I had a chance to test it out last week and the light is gone, and seems to be running about 14-14.2 volts. No fire yet!
This weekend, I again wanted to get at the seal, but a storm blew in Friday that stopped my Eldorado-ing that I had been enjoying after last weekend's rains. Coupled with the cold, there's still a lot of wind so I'm in no mood to work outside. When removing the door panel, I had accidentally broken the window switch bezel.
I glued it with some success, as it appeared that every other wreck or used part I came across had broken mounts, so replacement was not an option. That was until I was able to find a new unit with the help of the parts manual. A tip to everyone with one of these, if you are going to remove the switch assembly for whatever reason, do not disconnect the power window connection. Remove the two 4.5mm screws that hold the whole thing on first, then pry the connector off. The GM plastichrome is not the strongest stuff in the world and it will snap if you put too much force on it.
The switch part pops into the new bezel (getting the switch out completely destroyed the old bezel)
Viola!