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Another camera scanned film shot. The original camera was a Mamiya RZ67 Pro-II. Film used was Kodak Ektar 100. Developed right here at home and photographed on a home brew light table using an RGB LED architectural light for illumination.
The all important color positive conversion was done using Negative Lab Pro. In my first image I pushed the whites so high the most brightly lit yellows would not reproduce in sRGB. So this time I backed off the intensity a bit and saved the file in Display P3. I also paid more attention to white balance and so forth--basically, the treatment one would give for a file to print large vs one to share in IG where none of this can be seen anyway.
Whatever my ideas, experience or creative vision, there is a lens or camera to draw out my potential. Each picture represents the pride and passion of a photographer that some can't understand it. How will I see the world? let my Nikon help..
I am participating in a group-52-weeks-project. It's called "Let's get creative | 2014". I recommend you join in. This weeks theme was 'camera'. :)
For the RogueOlympics on www.RogeuBricks.de I built a camera with only 101 parts, which you can find on my stream.
I liked this first 101 parts MOC so much, that I decided to build it again - but then without part limit.
The camera itself is only build with LEGO parts and, the Nintendo set tiles fitting perfectly for the screen on the backside. Also the objektive is brick build in this one.
D700 with UWH 12/5.6 works fine.
Not perfect but good enogh.
F2A with 40/2 was not needed for photograph at Osaka.
But they were came from Kenjiro.
I had to bring by another reason.
These are the film cameras that I use with some regularity.
120 film
Fuji GSW690III 6 X 9 rangefinder, Vermeer Pinhole 6X6, Fuji 6X17 panorama camera
35mm
Olympus OM-1 SLR, Canon Demi (half-frame), Olympus XA4 clamshell camera, Nikon S3 rangefinder
110 film Pentax auto 110 SLR
Camera: Sony IPELA SNC-CH260
Output resolution: 1920x1080
all 30 minutes via SMTP
all 30 seconds via FTP
Vintage camera at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, Great-Britain.
My museum collection : www.flickr.com/photos/9619972@N08/collections/72157702215...
Leica M2
35mm Summicron (1973) (yellow filter)
Fomapan 100 in Clayton F76 (1:9 @ 68 deg for 7 min)
-- Molly photo bombed my camera porn shot. Not really.
Taking the new Fujifilm Instax Wide 300 instant camera out and about. Instax film handles bright sunlight just fine. For more about the Fuji, see my review at www.yashicasailorboy.com
Thanks, Chris
All of the pictures are © copyright by P1ay "All rights are reserved" worldwide. Please do not use, copy or edit any of my photographs. However please feel free to contact with me if you are interested in using any of my images.
I have had this shot in my head for some time and always knew it was going to be more about the edit rather than just taking a picture…I also knew that I would have to take two shots to achieve this picture and I really did not want to take two shots, I wanted to take one shot and have a quick edit.
I spent a few days trying to figure how I would get the camera to look like it was floating mid air…eventually I used the camera strap and wore it round my neck, as you do…this did work and I manage to put my neck down a little and it bought the camera down…however I needed the camera to stick out a bit so it was away from my body…my genius friend gave my two magnetic strips…I opened the screen out and rotated it so it was pointing towards me….attached the strips and used a magnet from a fridge magnet and stuck it on the strips which then stuck to my belt buckle…Like I said genius friend!!!
I then used to rubber bands to tie the lights to my hands so I could have them open…I did not want to have to long of an exposure as I knew my hands would move, so I turned the ISO up to 500, F13 and had it for 1 second.
I cloned the straps and rubber bands off in PS and also added the small flares, I wanted an orb round the camera but it did not look right so I kept the flares to a minimum. I then took back into lightrooms and decreased the contrast and clarity, I used the spilt toning to adjust the colour and increased the yellow luminance a bit and finally added a bit of vignetting.
All of the pictures are © copyright by P1ay "All rights are reserved" worldwide. Please do not use, copy or edit any of my photographs. However please feel free to contact with me if you are interested in using any of my images.
Cameras at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, Great-Britain.
My museum collection : www.flickr.com/photos/9619972@N08/collections/72157702215...
I get a decent number of questions asking me what I shoot with, do I use X or Y or whatever... so to make it easier I recently just took a photo of what's in my camera case, and then dumped it out so folks could get an idea of what tools I use (admittedly some more than other's).
This is what I keep my camera gear in... if you want to see the contents dumped out see this photo where it's easier to see everything as in this photo there is a lot of stuff that is buried under something else.
Click here to see it larger.
Click here to see a close up of the bottom section of the case.
Camera Bodies:
Canon 5DMkII
Canon 5D
Canon 50D
Canon 20D
Canon Elan 7
Lenses:
Canon 15mm f/2.8 fisheye
Canon 35mm f/1.4L
Canon 50mm f/1.4
Canon 85mm f/1.2L MkII
Canon 100mm f/2.8 macro
Canon 135mm f/2L
Canon 16-35mm f/2.8 MkII
Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L
Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS
Lensbaby Composer (w/ lens diaphram set)
Flash / Lighting Stuff:
Canon 580EXII x3 (w/ foot stands)
Pocket Wizard Plus II x4
Sekonic L-358 (w/ Pocket Wizard Trigger Module)
Canon Remote Shutter Release Cable (to trigger camera via Pocket Wizards)
Pocket Wizard Mini to PC Sync Cables x4
Canon CP-E4 Camera Battery Pack (filled with Maha Powerex 2700mAh batteries)
Canon ST-E2 Wireless Trasmitter
Film / Memory Cards:
SanDisk Ultra II 2GB x 9
SanDisk Ultra II 4GB x 1
SanDisk Extreme III 8GB x 2
Fuji Pro400H and NeoPan Film
Gepe Cardsafe Extreme Cases x3
Accessories:
Lastolite White/Grey Card
x-rite Colorchecker Passport w/ no case (recieved it as a beta tester for the product)
Business cards, Canon CPS Calendar, Pen
Large and Regular Sized PhotoClear Cleaning Cloth
LensPen, Giottos Cleaning Brush
Hot Shoe Level
Extra Battery for Canon 5DMkII and for the ST-E2 Transmitter
Battery Chargers for Canon Camera's
Hoya CP Filter
Case:
Pelican 1614 Hardshell case w/ rollers and adjustable dividers
Pelican 1609 Lid Oranizer for 1600 Case
Pelican Silica Gel Pack (for removing moisture, able to be used over and over)
Tech Details: If your curious how one takes a photograph of all of one's photo gear the answer is you borrow a friends camera from down the street (a Rebel XT/350D with a Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L lens).
Lighting provided by one White Lighting X1600 to camera right difused through a large softbox, with Westcott 42" Silver reflector to camera right to just bring in some fill light. A short roll of White Savage Seamless just hanging off the knuckle arm of an Avenger C-Stand (easier and quicker than getting out a big background stand). Triggered by a good ole-fashioned sync cable connected to a Nikon AS-15 on the hot shoe since the RebelXT/350D lacks a PC Sync connector.
Ganhei uma câmera nova ontem e decidi postar uma das fotos que mais gostei até agora e sem edição nenhuma só pra ver como ficou e eu realmente acho que ficou muito boa (:
Up on the Top we have Eric Kim's M6 w/35mm Summilux and his M9 with Voigtlander 21mm Color Scopar and Finder.
Down on the bottom I have my M6 with the trusty 35mm Summicron ASPH.
The classical line of Nikon's point & shoot cameras. Three models, each in two versions: AD with data-back or AF without one. So you have
1983: L35AF and L35AD
1984: L35AF2 and L35AD2
1987: AF3 and AD3, the L35 part of the name was dropped
And to confuse you some more, both the L35AF2 and AF3 were called one-touch in some regions.
There are other, "special", cameras with the L35 designation. The L35TWAF with tele-lens and the all-weather L35AWAF.
So, what are the differences?
The lens: all cameras have an 1:2.8 35 mm lens, but the AF and AF2 have a lens construction with 5 elements in 4 groups, the AF3 has only 4 elements in 3 groups. The nearest focus distance of the AF and AF2 is 0.8 m, the AF3 is macro capable and has a nearest distance of 0.45m. The distance determined by the autofocus is shown with symbols in the viewer of the AF and AF2 and not in the one of the AF3.
Film speed: the film speed has to be set manually at the AF, the range is from 25 to 400 ASA, on later versions this was extended to 1000 ASA. The other ones can read DX-code, the AF2 from 50 to 1600, the AF3 from 64 to 1600.
Flash operation: an inglorious aspect of the AF and AF2. It is supposed that the flash pops up automatically and is used in that way. If you want to force the flash to pop up for doing some fill-in lighting, you have to shadow the exposure meter and press the shutter button halfway. If you don't want to use the flash, e.g. for a night shot, you must hold down the flash - with your other hand. The flash of the AF3 doesn't pop up, you can switch it of by pressing a button, so you need your other hand too.
Batteries: 2x AA for the AF and AF2, a lithium 6V CR-P2 for the AF3
Details: only the AF has switch for backlight compensation (+2EV). Only the AF and AF3 have a filter thread (46 mm). Only the AF2 and AF3 have a built-in lens protection, the AF needs a special lens cap.
So Jeni came up with these awesome little drawstring bags to tote around her camera. She was nice enough to share her measurements and notes with me so I could make one for myself.
A little birdie told me that she will be posting the tutorial when she gets back from Sewing Summit!
8x10 Paper Negative
This is my newest 4x5 camera, the "Red Aviar". I've built it out of Bits and Pieces I've had sitting around.
The lens is a 13 1/2" Taylor Hobson Cooke Aviar Anastigmat. It's not clear if this is a WWII or a WWI lens. Regardless, it's heavy = approx. 4 Kg. This is to heavy to mount on my Calumet C-1, I was afraid I might break something, so I decided to build a custom camera to hold the lens.
The Bellows and Focusing mechanism are from a Polaroid MP4 camera. I had to drill out the front to fit the new lens.
The Body is a scrappy red wooden box I've had just sitting around doing nothing, and the rear is a leftover Toyo 4x5 rear standard. Tripod Mount is a permanently mounted Manfrotto Hex.
Lot's of plywood, cutting and glueing.