View allAll Photos Tagged breadboard
my first step beyond simple blinking LEDs - wiring up a proper component to Arduino and feeding it a message over USB.
any similarity to a test message in another photo is entirely intentional. can you guess what's coming next?
To power the board, I have 2 power packs, they are identical.
Switching mode, adjustable voltage, 1 Amp max.
This is a rather clever trick I discovered from the world of synth DIY. It's probably basic for those that know electronics but, to say I'm a newbie/rookie is the understatement of the century!
You set both packs to the same output, then you connect the positive of one supply to the negative of the second supply.
(Brown lead top of picture)
From this you run crocodile clips, the green lead gives you a reference ground, the white lead from supply 1 gives you a negative voltage and the yellow lead gives you a positive voltage.
DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!
Make sure you have transformer isolated power packs and/or packs that are not directly connected to ground earth.
This is a necessary method of powering certain IC chips.
(I'm still amazed by all the wizardry so forgive the excitement!)
This will be made in a safer format using a pair of jack sockets for the power packs, some banana type sockets and a switch!
And I had but one penny in the world, thou should'st have it to buy gingerbread.
-- William Shakespeare, "Love's Labor's Lost"
LCD displaying the date and time using the DS1337 RTC from Maxim. A DS1803 dual digital potentiometer is used to control both the brightness and backlight of the LCD. The LCD is driven using the PCF8574 IO expander. The whole thing on only two wires
EDIT: The temperature sensor has been changed to the I2C DS1624, which has a 3 decimal precision and doesn't require calibration!)
EDIT2: More info at http://trac.mlalonde.net/cral/.
Copyright © 2014 Deborah M. Zajac. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
Nikon Df| AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.8g| SB910 camera left, @1/8 pwr bounced off ceiling 45 degress, triggered via SU800. The Speedlight was slightly behind the hero
Shot I did for a thumbnail for my Raspberry Pi Pico review. Overhead strip LED light (battery powered) and a focus stacked image (9 exposures) from my Nikon D750 with 60mm f/2.8 lens.
An arduino nano (left, with bright blue light) being the controller in this setup. adafruit 7-seg LED backpack module (i2c, 5v) is the display. there are 2 xbees: one on usb, inside the plastic box (top) and one on the proto board with the bright red led. on the bottom of the board is an ftdi-like (lol) usb/serial ttl 5v/3.3v board. upper top is a cheap ebay rotary encoder with plastic knob.
I'm testing out some code to read the encoder, write to the numeric display and update values over xbee radios. the bottom serial board can be used to sniff the traffic or you can use the xbee to send data to its peer. the output is ascii and you can watch it via 'putty' on windows or any term program you want.
both the ftdi board and the xbee are on software-serial arduino pins and I limited the speed to 19200 for that reason.
for short distances, so far its pretty responsive. the encoder works well, the arduino scans it fast enough to not miss any turn events and the led display is sharp, bright and also very fast to update/write to.
Junk Jet n°1 wants to capture and transfer junk’s ambiguities indicating non-function, or at least bad-function implied in the nature of technology, and various forms of mis-use for aesthetic purposes. What could be the aesthetic (non-) function of junk within clean computational aesthetics of electronic media?
Therefore, relevant fields are all sorts of re-use, of wrong-use and non-use, and of tinkering (bricoler, basteln) of forms and found objects, of theories and (small) narratives, of fashions and styles, and of course of computers and other electronic devices. Junk Jet n°1 wants to explore do-it-yourself works of computer culture, accidental outcomes, deviant and normal aesthetic forms that result from misused media, subverted customary tools, and jammed common practices.
For this reason it has collected works from theorists, artists, architects, and musicians who treated in various forms counter use of electronic devices, or who produced counter works (and counter counter works) of counter aesthetics, tunneling mainstream (above all architects’, designers’, and artists’ stream) practices. Processes of deformation and variation are more important than linear chains of formulation and fixation. This includes works and concepts on collage (Holger Lund), on chance, cut up, bootleg and sampling (Jan Jelinek, Rank Sinatra, Mowblind), and on hybrid techniques (Nicole Sudhoff), all of them turning electronic devices, and other forms of computation into machines of indeterminacy. Open experiments in which someone or something may fail are of great importance: Through the lens of failure Junk Jet watches authority falter, methodologies crumble, tests getting tested – until they crash. Failure is regarded a means for confronting the seemingly fixed hierarchies implemented in technologies, but above all in procedures.
Junk Jet n°1 claims itself political, not in that it handles political topics, but in that it goes after medial techniques that show alternatives to the tautological and exploitative practices of our mass culture. Junk Jet n°1 wants to cultivate its anti heart by “introducing noise to signal”: by distorting the digital hype and collapsing the technological seduction, by subverting the computer, and exploring the aesthetics of noise and the beauty of collapse and crash – perhaps the crash of the beauty.
With noisy contributions by:
Kim Cascone, The Breadboard Band, Asli Serbest & Mona Mahall, Marc Wright & Tim Kaiser (girl.tv), Gerd De Bruyn, Susigames, Hisham Almannai, Nicole Pruckermayr, Holger Lund, Burak Arikan, Nicole Sudhoff, Pascal Glissmann & Martina Höfflin, Amy Alexander, Jaromil, Sebastian Schöpsdau, Farmers Manual, Martin Woodtli, Claus Pias, Olia Lialina, Moritz von Pein, Christine Berrie, Rank Sinatra, Sven Koenig, Dieter Kovacic (dieb13) & Oliver Stolz, The Breadboard Band, 2-5bz, Nobukazo Takemuro , Alex Tsitsigias, Peter Plessas, Kid Fellow, Sinebag, Jan Jelinek, Mowblind
Release Date: November 2007
ISSN: 1865-9357
Number of pages: 69
Measurements: 25 x 20 x 0.5 cm
Breadboarding for my first time. Actually, it's kinda fun because you can rip the whole thing apart in about 20 seconds without tears.
This is KD1JV's circuit, documented HERE.
Steve Weber's description:
This circuit is used to monitor the battery voltage, using a bi-color LED to indicate the state of the battery. When the LED is "GREEN" the battery voltage is above 11.9 volts. When the LED is "YELLOW", the battery voltage is between 11.9 and 11.5 volts. When the LED is "RED" the battery voltage is below 11.5 volts. You can of course, modify the trigger points by using the trimmer resistors and/or changing the value of the dropping resistors in the divider.
A dual op amp is used as a voltage comparator. The green LED is on so long as the voltage across the circuit is above 11.5 volts. The red LED comes on when the voltage across the circuit drops to below 11.9 volts. Therefore, in the 11.9 to 11.5 volt range, both LED's are on, producing a some what yellow color. When the voltage drops below 11.5 volts, the green LED turns off and now only the red LED is on, indicating a low voltage condition.
It is recommended that multi-turn trimmer be used for V1 and V2. Muti-turn trimmer will make it much easier to set the trigger points than using a less expensive single turn trimmer. The trimmers could be eliminated entirely, if one had access to an assortment of 1% resistors and carefully calculated the values needed. One would also want to use a more precise voltage reference than the common 78L05 regulator provides.
Diavolino (EMSL Arduino clone) checking the temperature with 17 DS18B20 and 2 DS1820 one-wire temperature sensors. Using an Adafruit DS1307 breakout for time of day and FTDI Friend to connect to my computer which is currently logging the serial output.
Code on the ATMega328 reads all the sensors it finds on startup every 10 seconds, averages them and sends a record on the serial port. It won't properly handle a sensor being removed, but that's not a use case I intend. Originally built to see how the DS18b20s were in agreement, then modified to have a little fun with Seattle's little bit of summer.
Using a pair of XBees to send packets back and forth between my laptop and an ARM microcontroller while a logic analyzer keeps tabs on the process.
After working out the keyboard matrix layout, I tested a few keys with my Teensy on a breadboard before soldering it to perfboard.
My breadboarding is too damn messy. This is an attempt at an Arduino-driven EEPROM programmer (yes, silly, I know). It's controlled via USB by my PC.
Alright, I admit it. I just like watching the lights blink, OK?
LEDs pulse back and forth in the mantle to indicate roughly how many friends are on Xbox Live. It goes into red alert if anyone's playing Left 4 Dead.
That's a lot of garlic!! Again, 50mm and natural light..I used parchment paper as a seamless background, slung over a chair..works well if you keep the picture tight..also is water resistant for quite a while...see my lemon photo with the juice...
Developing an Arduino application for a series of revolving storefront window displays. Each display holds a laptop which is plugged in, so the motor must be reversed once every revolution to avoid twisting the laptop's power cord.
The display's rotating axle will have a reflective tab that crosses over the sensor (a phototransistor) shown above. Arduino's analog I/O pin detects a change in voltage from the sensor-- a value that can be adjusted in the script, to make the sensor more or less sensitive. It then makes one of two digital output pins high, which triggers the respective coil in the relay. The relay then reverses the polarity to the motor, reversing it until the tab comes back around and the process starts again.
In this image I have LEDs simulating the reversal, in the real thing a motor will be hooked up instead.
See a video of this guy in action: www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpuy9b2Fk4k
Here is the whole system built up on a prototype board, to make sure that everything works correctly. One thing that I missed during this stage was the decoupling cap on the PIC power supply.
Farm table with turned legs and breadboard ends for the top. The breadboards are the pieces at the ends that both keep the table flat, and allow the top to expand seasonally. The top was hand-planed and antiqued. The painted bottom was also distressed.
So after a lot of experimentation here is the setup I have settled on for the portal turret. The breadboards are only for the prototype stage and won't be part of the final setup. The turret has a small motion sensor in the lower part of the picture that is connect to the arduino. Every time motion is detected the setup randomly plays one of 17 audio clips through the sound board(the red one). The sound module in turn is connected to a small speaker that has surprisingly good sound quality for 4 dollars. I really wanted to make sure tracks were not repeated too frequently so the system randomly shuffles the 17 tracks and then plays 1 track each time motion is detected. After all 17 tracks are played, the system reshuffles the list again. As an added bonus there will be a small button on the turret that when pressed will play the portal theme song. The system will have the ability to be powered by either the internal battery source or with the flip of a button, be plugged into the wall with an adapter so it can be left on without worry of constantly needing to change batteries. The only other piece not featured which I will post images of soon is the eyeball. The 4 LEDs on the left are part of the eye and glow bright red.
This is a version of Stackduino.
Wobbly screen test. I hate this breadboard, nothing fits properly and it seems to be designed to work on a part-time basis. Can't turn the encoder properly without it coming off. Sort of goes against the idea of a breadboard, but I might glue it down...
On the plus side menu selection seems to work ok.
Battery voltage reading as 0.00v is down to the issue with the the ltc4412 which I still need to solve. There are no batteries actually connected here, but the ltc4412 is telling the controller there are, hence the battery symbol and the 0 reading.
The stack is run with many optional settings switched off, except bracketing. Here the camera takes two images per focus slice.
Towards the end the stack should really have been cancelled on the first push of the button. Looks like I'm not polling regularly enough for that change at the moment.
When you're building circuits on a breadboard there is nothing more annoying than having to measure, snip, and then strip both ends of each and every piece of wire.
Well perhaps there are greater annoyances but that does not mean that this problem should go un-addressed. Addressed it has become, and if you too have a few stepper motors, a hand-held wire stripper and a bunch of nuts and bolts your life, too, can become easier.
For all of you crying overkill, we do have a small ulterior motive, at oomlout.com we manufacture a number of kits that come with pre-stripped wires hence the need for semi automation. This version is the much improved brethren of version one.
If you'd like to build your own full details can be found here:
A video of it in action;
www.youtube.com/watch?v=fftZq_deIls
A second video (a little shaky but better at showing the different components)
Finally I finished the enclosure and the breadboard for my own HIVIZ Multi-trigger.
I changed the enclosure a little bit by making 3 sectors for the functionality.
For the Dutch panel lay-out, I used an aluminum offset plate (for printing).
If you want to make yours, find all info on www.hiviz.com.
Look here for a setup and see this trigger "at work"