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CSX Ethanol Train B651 makes its way along the Big Sandy Subdivision with CPKC foreign power as it clears the brackets outside of Dawkins at MP 63.9
An acquaintance of mine drew my attention to this inconspicuous piece of ironmongery high up on a building on Picton Road, Liverpool. It is a bracket left over from the old catenary lighting system in the city. He used to work on the system; he recalled that the insulation was a little past its best, and a blue glow from arcing components could often be seen hovering spectrally on the cables.
He was also involved in the final dismantling of the system. The drill was, once the road below was closed and the power turned off, the cables were slackened off and then cut down. On one occasion at the junction of Picton Road and Wellington Road, my acquaintance cut through the cable without first loosening it off. Suddenly untrammelled, the cable parted with enthusiasm, shot across the road and smashed the window of the bookies opposite.
I have thus far found five brackets like this one near the Picton Road / Wellington Road junction, plus a slightly different arrangement at the actual corner itself, this last being the one of thje bookies incident. The bookies is still there too.
At the lower part of the trunk. Possibly Southern Bracket.
Manor Estate Stafford UK 13th September 2024
Rare on Long lsland, bracketed lines were installed in a few places back in the 50's and 60's, using gray porcelain brackets. NJ, Connecticut, and many other places use them much more often, especially in areas with a lot of trees. Hendrix, of Milford NH, makes a lot of todays polymer ones.
Install the tabbed washer on the non-drive side. Line it up with the slot. If your tabbed washer is toast, you can likely use one from another make of American Bottom Bracket. Likewise with the lock nut. I did not put a thread pitch gauge on here, but I believe it's 24tpi. I grabbed a random locknut I had laying around and it threaded on just fine. That will, however not look as nicely finished when installed, and I believe the Fauber locknut does add a small amount of dust protection.
I used an impact tri bracket and my home made dual bracket bar to make this quad bracket to improve power out side. I am able to get about f16 - f18 direct power at 4 feet, and about f8-f12 bounce at 100iso 1/250. The plan is try to get 1-2 more stops of light to allow the sky to stay blue in outside shots. Flashes are Canon 580EXII , Nikon SB-24, LumoPro LP160, Vivitar DF400MZ. The Nikon and Canon flash is triggered by a Cactus V4 with a mono splitter to 2 pc cables. The Vivitar and LumoPro are triggered optically.
Fungi in Watts Meadow - and underneath the familiar beetroot coloured top side of the blushing brackets were these intricate maze like gill patterns.
A beautiful old bottom bracket set intended for loose ball bearings. This set has an unusually drilled adjustable cup. This very handy feature allows a use of a variety of different pin spanners. The cup can also be approached from many more angles than cups with only 4 or 6 holes. Excellent chrome plating on both the lock ring and the crank bolts. A rubber gasket in the axle holes of the cups helps seal out moisture. These cups are threaded for 35 x 1 mm French frames.
DSCF0007
This ingenious bracket allows a speedlight or large flash (Quantum shown) to use modifiers with a Bowens S-mount. Unlike speedlight brackets that place the flash vertically, this bracket allows the flash to be moved across a wide (8-inch) range along the horizontal axis, thus allowing the flash to be positioned optimally. For example, the Quantum flash shown was positioned so that the entire flashtube will be within the modifier. This bracket is very well made, has useful design elements, and is very reasonably priced.
Reviewed here: betterfamilyphotos.blogspot.com/2011/07/step-closer-to-st...
Amusing graffiti on heavy duty metal bracket in Soap Yard.
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Polyporus squamosus or Dryad's Saddle - I think, a type of bracket fungus. I found on a rotting ash stump, but the tree canopy made it difficult to get a good image.
The right bracket of my polargraph.
Ingredients:
-Scraps of wood
-Shapeways printed sprocket
-Screen door roller (to guide beaded blind cord when board is tilted at more extreme angles)
-Rubber washers (to dampen vibrations of motor)
-bolts
-wing nuts (behind bracket)
More about polargraphs here: